This was our first no heat of the year , but as usual we didn't just stop at the first problem.
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Accutools core removal tools - https://www.trutechtools.com/Accutools-S10735-Core-Removal-Tool-1-4?affid=36
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HVACR VIDEOS
12523 LIMONITE AVE.
#440 - 184
MIRA LOMA, CA. 91752
00:00 SPONSOR CARD
00:10 VIDEO START
00:23 BUILDING BALANCE ISSUE
01:47 SMOKE DETECTOR ISSUE
03:52 DON'T BE DUMB LIKE ME (QUICK TIP)
07:42 SILLY FILTER CHANGERS
07:46 FOUND THE ISSUE
10:43 REPLACING THE PULLEY
13:22 WE HAVE IGNITION
16:08 CLOSING WORDS
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TOOL LINKS
JB nitrogen purging adapter- https://amzn.to/3iwzaxc
Ratchet tubing bender- https://www.trutechtools.com/BlackMax-BTB300-Tubing-Tools-Premium-Ratcheting-Tube-Bender-w-Reverse-Bend-1-4-in-5-16-in-3-8-in-1-2-in-5-8-in-3-4-in-7-8-in-OD-Tubing?affid=36
Fieldpiece wireless scale https://www.trutechtools.com/SRS3?affid=36
Fieldpiece SC480 meter https://www.trutechtools.com/Fieldpiece-SC480-Job-Link-System-Power-Clamp-Meter?affid=36
Fieldpiece JobLink wireless probes https://www.trutechtools.com/JL3KH6?affid=36
Sman 480 digital manifold https://www.trutechtools.com/Fieldpiece-SM480V?affid=36
Fieldpiece MR45 recovery machine https://www.trutechtools.com/Fieldpiece-MR45-Digital-Recovery-Machine?affid=36
Fieldpiece VP85 vacuum pump- https://www.trutechtools.com/Fieldpiece-VP85-RunQuick-Vacuum-Pump-8-CFM?affid=36
Wireless probes charging tee - https://www.trutechtools.com/AVT45?affid=36
Samsung 8" Tablet https://amzn.to/3bW8QJ6
OtterBox case https://amzn.to/2wgd0M5
Bomber safety glasses - https://amzn.to/2yD6sbs
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BlueVac Pro micron gauge - https://www.trutechtools.com/BluvacProPlus?affid=36
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Accutools core removal tools - https://www.trutechtools.com/Accutools-S10735-Core-Removal-Tool-1-4?affid=36
Nitrogen purging regulator - https://www.trutechtools.com/Western-Enterprises-VN-500-HVAC-Nitrogen-Purging-Regulator?affid=36
Nylog blue - https://www.trutechtools.com/RT201B?affid=36
Flir One Pro thermal imaging camera https://www.trutechtools.com/FLIR-One-Pro-Smart-Phone-Connected-Thermal-Imager-Android-USB-C?affid=36
Viper coil gun- https://www.trutechtools.com/Refrigeration-Technologies-RT300S-Viper-Brite-Coil-Cleaning-Spray-Gun?affid=36
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For any inquiries please contact me at chris @hvacrvideos.com
Mailing Address
HVACR VIDEOS
12523 LIMONITE AVE.
#440 - 184
MIRA LOMA, CA. 91752
00:00 SPONSOR CARD
00:10 VIDEO START
00:23 BUILDING BALANCE ISSUE
01:47 SMOKE DETECTOR ISSUE
03:52 DON'T BE DUMB LIKE ME (QUICK TIP)
07:42 SILLY FILTER CHANGERS
07:46 FOUND THE ISSUE
10:43 REPLACING THE PULLEY
13:22 WE HAVE IGNITION
16:08 CLOSING WORDS
This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. All right, so we've got a service call on the heater, not working for the kitchen. You can see that we're in heat mode, it's 59 degrees in here and we're calling for heat so and they're. Saying nothing's happening so we're going to jump on the roof and check it out all right paying attention.
As i was coming up the roof hatch, i noticed that the building was in a negative air conditioned, meaning that the air was rushing down the roof hatch when it was open, and i went ahead and hooked up a monometer. So you can see and that's a negative building condition so what's happening. Is the exhaust fans are pulling out more air than the makeup air is putting back into the building? This building does not have a makeup air unit. All they have is direct drive, exhaust fans that are variable because of their variable speed hood system and they pull all their makeup air from every one of their acs.
Okay. So the fact that i've got a negative air pressure and the fact that all that air is rushing down the hood i mean down the roof. Hatch indicates to me uh that we're not putting enough air in the building - and i bet you anything - we're gon na - have an ac, that's completely down and or not running the way that this system should operate. If it's working correctly is whenever the exhaust fans are running, all of the acs should be put into an occupied mode, and they should be running the indoor blower motors and opening up the outdoor air, dampers or economizers to bring in fresh air to compensate for what The exhaust fans are pulling out whether or not that's what's going on here, we'll find out, but we also got to pay attention.
But this is my kitchen ac um. Let's go ahead and open this guy up, let's see what jumps out at us. So it looks like we got an uh error code number four, which actually is a smoke detector smoke alarm. So we need to go look into that and see why we have a smoke alarm uh.
I don't know if the smoke alarm is in the ac or not. Let's get right in here. It's uh one of these rare days in california, where it's kind of frosty up on the roof um. So, as i could say, one of the acs is not running this one's not working at all and there's no smoke detector, so the duct detectors are located in the ductwork down in the building.
We're gon na have to go figure that out. We have a test and reset station right here. That is tripped. You see how no light no light, no light, so we're gon na go ahead and reset the alarm it'll reset.
It's not resetting. That's not good. I was able to reset it by turning this one. On and off so all right, the unit has started up and went right into a heap mode.
The alarm code cleared. So that's why we have test and reset stations, so we can reset it, especially when they're installed in the ductwork um. One of them is fired. One of them has not: we've got two two-stage heat here and they're, also very dirty lots of cobwebs and stuff down in there. So we're definitely to have to clean that stuff, but uh yeah this one right here is not firing in heat. So, let's start by cleaning the unit out, get all the dust out of there and then we'll evaluate everything and see. What's going on, uh looks like we also got an alarm code of a 58 gas valve, not energizing. Well, we know that so.
Okay, we're gon na clean the unit up first uh. We need to check the unit belt, make sure that's working good too, and then we'll go from there. This little milwaukee blower works wonders for this kind of stuff. I turn the power off to the unit.
Got ta be careful with static electricity around the circuit board um, i know from experience i remember when i was uh first coming up. I brought a co2 bottle up onto the roof to blow out a circuit board and that generated enough static electricity to short the board out, so be cautious about that. That's decent for now, um. We certainly may have to pull them and clean them proper, but at least we got the lint and the dust out of there and then, let's open up this indoor blower assembly see what it's looking like over here power's off yep nice loose belt.
So that's not going to help the situation either. Let's go ahead and get that guy tightened up and then uh we'll start it back up this uh pulley's pretty worked. I don't got my gauge on me right now, but you can see up here. I know this is gon na be hard for you to see up here.
This is good. This is nice and smooth, but then it really indents right in here right in there and the belt is starting to get stuck in it, and you can also tell by the wear pattern on the belt it's starting to wear it kind of funny. So this pulley is going to need to be replaced, but i think what i'm going to do right now is go ahead and get it tightened up and then verify everything else is working with the unit, because i can go get a pulley right now, but i I don't want to go, get a pulley and then find out. We need other things too.
So if i can, i'm going to tighten it up, see if we can get it running and then we can always uh replace the pulley after the fact can't tell you how many people get this screwed up when you're tightening the pulley or when you're tightening the Belt, you need to do it evenly. Okay, so this one you've got these screws right here for safety that hold it in place or bolts, and you have two over here right. These hold it in place, and then these are the adjustment bolts. You have to do it evenly now so long as it's.
Even when you start, if you do 10 turns in either direction, do 10 turns in either direction on this one don't just twist on one because then what happens? Is you make the motor cockeyed? Okay now there's a couple different ways. You can do this number one mark it right and then mark the other side like that uh i marked it marked them both and then check to make sure that your pattern is even the next thing that you can do to see if you're adjusting it correctly Is find a safe point to put a tape measure and do right there so right at about two and a half inches cameras being kind of focused unfriendly right now and we're right at about two and a half inches. So. But you just got to make sure that you adjust it evenly. Okay, don't be half-assing this, let's be thorough about this um okay, so this guy's, i'm not gon na, go too crazy tight because we do have a messed up. Pulley - and i don't want the belt to get stuck and rip apart, but it's snug enough. This is the silly filter changers. What they think is a great solution for a filter.
This is ridiculous. These things are dirty too, but like can they not trim those filters? Good gosh man, ignorance, all right. I went ahead and turned the unit back on indoor blower just started up and uh we're gon na have to wait a few minutes for the heat to kick on for it. To give us a call.
The cool thing about these units is right over here. You get a call right in there now the leds probably aren't showing up perfect, but we don't have a call. As of yet okay, first stage just kicked on draft motor kicked on moving air there's a proving switch right here. It's a pressure switch once that proves we should get ignition or at least ignition attempt um.
Sometimes you should see. I don't see there, we go it. Just tried, i just heard the relay click for the ignition module and i'm hearing nothing from the igniters. It's trying music, these ignition modules fail.
Often so, and it's got power. I know it's not showing that, but the the led is lit up, but we're not igniting. So i'm gon na get my meter out. There goes the second stage just kicked on.
Second stage is working, but first stage is not even trying to ignite so we're going to look into this ignition module. We've got 24 volts or 26 volts coming into the ignition module and it's not igniting so we've got a problem there um and like i said these are a high failure rate so we're more than likely going to have a bad ignition module but um i'm going To investigate the flame sensor, electrode 2, because i usually change the electrode and the flame sensor. Well, this one only has one. I think i think it's a combination, but i usually change the ignition components all together so we'll see.
So we do not have combination um, but we're not even getting a spark. So that indicates that we've got a problem with the ignition module, but i pulled the electrode out. I don't see anything and the flame sensor don't see any issues. But again it's not like it's lighting and then going out we're not even getting - and this is electronic ignition, so spark ignition.
So we're not even getting spark, doesn't look corroded or dirty. Looks fine, so yeah we're gon na have a problem with this ignition module. All right, i have another technician going to pick me up the parts right now uh. I don't have them with me, but they have them local to me. So i got him picking up uh the uh igniter, the flame sensor and the ignition module um. While i'm waiting, i'm just gon na go ahead and look at their other ac's and uh, i got nothing better to do and uh tighten up the belts and all that good stuff on them. So i just want to point something out. I understand the sequence of operation and how this unit works, and i can actually hear this igniter every once in a while trying to i'm sorry, this ignition module trying to ignite the igniter like every once in a while.
You can hear it intermittently turn on and off so um. I am skipping some steps because i understand the sequence of operation. I can hear the relay click. I can hear a send power.
The induced draft motor is running. The pressure switch is proved, so just keep that in mind. You need to understand how these things work, i'm getting started. A little bit of penetrating oil goes a long way, just whatever brand from the supply house um.
I couldn't get the key out. So what i did was just put my puller on there and i didn't even have to wrench it. I just did it by hand, pulled the whole pulley right off the key's out now, so this whole thing's just sliding out so take the key clean it up. Pulley right there um and got the new pulley right here set it.
I already set it to the exact setting uh and i wanted to cover something too. I want to make this absolutely clear. You do not want to adjust the the pulley open or closed to. Try to tighten up a belt or to stop what i was having right now, which was the belt getting stuck in the pulley.
That pulley is bad. Okay, you do not adjust it to to make it so that the belt rides in a different spot, or something like that, because you're messing with the performance, the speed and everything. So when that pulley's worn out it's time to replace it move on to a new one now my opinion - i don't know this to be fact, but my opinion these pulleys get worn out because of lack of preventative maintenance and loose belts. That's always been my assumption.
As to why these pulleys get worn out, because i tend to notice that people who do more than routine preventative maintenance, you know and really are up on it. We tend to not go through pulleys as fast, essentially so all right, new pulleys on now a couple things i want to point out number one notice. You can't see my lines anymore, where they were at earlier. That belt, that was on there before was massively stretched out, because i put the same size belt on there and i had to move this up.
A good half inch three quarters of an inch to space it out now. I also found that they did not have the pulley centered on there um. I did not use a straight edge. I just used an eyeball looking at it. I know a bunch of people are going to give me crap, but i can do a pretty darn good job on something like this like using my eyeball and some reference points um. So it's nice and straight. I ended up moving the pulley out a little bit to try to line it up a little bit better. We got good tension, it's riding in the pulley, properly um.
I know it's hard to show with the camera right now, but it's riding evenly it's riding evenly. I checked it on both top and the bottom. I went ahead and tightened everything back up. Did my measurement check to make sure everything was good with that it is so we're ready to push this guy back in and my ignition components just got here.
So we're going to slap those guys in too went ahead and replaced the ignition module and both components down there um. So it's basically firing up then we're gon na test it and see what happens. So, let's see if we get oh, i don't even know if we're gon na get a call for heating now, because it's actually kind of warm in the building we'll have to see, i might have to manually put it into heating mode all right. I went ahead and put it into test mode and we're going to go to h1 and just watch.
Well, we can go to h2 because it'll it'll do both stages. You can see them. Both h11 is going to be all stages, so hold it down. We go see what happens so inducers running or reduced draft motors running moving air.
It should be proving the circuit right now to the pressure switch once it does. That we'll hear a relay click up here which will send power down to the ignition module which will send pilot down and uh power to the igniter. Once the flame is lit and the flame sensor senses it it'll open up there we go and there we go. We have a flame, it's lit it's running, it's not gon na look good for you we're gon na.
Let it burn off because uh, it probably hasn't, ran in a little while we're gon na. Let it run for a little while make sure everything operates properly, but it looks like we're gon na be good. I didn't get to show it on camera, but i did my best to inspect the heat exchanger via through the blower motor uh, blower assembly area um, and it looked fine. I didn't see anything other had been a little rusty, but it looked half as decent.
So we'll let it run for a bit and see how it operates. Okay, been running for a minute um, so far, everything's looking good. Both systems are off and running. I'm monitoring the flame you're, not gon na, be able to see it, but i'm not seeing any uh roll out or anything the flames not coming back um everything looks to be good, so all preliminary signs show that everything's good um.
I don't have combustion analysis, equipment, uh, honestly, heat doesn't get used enough here. I'm surprised they had me fix this one but um it's working so, like i said i'm gon na. Let it run for a little while do a heat rise and then we'll go from there. I baked the kitchen right now because it already warmed up in there. So it's like 78 degrees in the kitchen right now, but unit is operating. It looks to be okay. I don't have combustion analysis, equipment or anything like that. I think i already said that, but i don't see any other issues with this, so we're going to let this one go.
Tell the customer to keep an eye on it uh i also had uh well, i had my other guy here. I had him go and just double check the tightness, because i had checked him, but that was just a hair on the loose side. So we tighten that one up a little bit and we're good to go now this equipment um. The other thing too, is very dirty.
I'm gon na let the customer know they need to get the filters changed the filter company's putting the wrong filters in there. I also uh verified that the outdoor air dampers were working because in the beginning of the video i told you guys that these are the make-up air units for this restaurant. So i made sure that the damper is actually working and it is so but yeah that is it all right. We don't do a lot of no heats out here.
I think last winter i don't even think i got any service calls for no heats uh. This winter, this was the first no heat that i got and then i got another. No heat service call that same day, a set of heat pumps that weren't working and i'll probably do a video on those too but um. I understand the basics of how you know gas combustion works and everything, but i don't see the i can't justify buying combustion analysis equipment because i just don't see using it very often.
For me, i mean to be honest with you. I come up on more units where second stage is not even hooked up for the heating, and it's been that way for years, because we hardly even need second stage heating, these particular units. Of course, when i install units i hook them up to where second stage is set up and everything because that's what the customer buys. So i want to make sure they're getting the best bang for their buck, but yeah.
We don't even need it half the time. So i want to cover the fact that uh, the pulleys i wanted to talk about the pulleys. I i see so many people in my comments when i change a pulley because it's worn out, they say you know, yeah, no, just tighten it down. You're wasting the customers money; no, no! If the pulley's worn out it's time to replace it.
Okay, i'm not playing these games where i'm going back and forth adjusting pulleys to try to compensate for being worn out and stuff like that. We just we quoted to the customer and move on. We don't play games, i'm very thankful that my customers want to want to fix their equipment properly. You know so we we go for that stuff, so when the pulleys are worn out, it's time to replace them.
Okay and also do not ever adjust a pulley to try to tighten a belt. I've seen people in my comments, say that too, and that is not correct guys when you play with a pulley or a sheave. I know that probably triggering a lot of people there, but if you play with a pulley or a sheave you're adjusting the performance of that equipment, you're, speeding up or slowing down that motor or the the the driven power of the motor. Basically, okay, so you want to be very cautious about that kind of stuff um. I just wanted to make sure we covered that. Okay, i really really appreciate you guys making it to the end of the video. If you haven't already and you're interested, please check out my website hvacrvideos.com all kinds of merch available on there. We got these hoodies right there.
So please, if you're interested and you can support the channel check out the merge page, also uh tools, if you're interested in purchasing any tools, definitely check out truetechtools.com and use my offer code big picture. One word: you can save eight percent on your order and uh yeah that's gon na, be it remember. I do live streams on monday evenings uh on my youtube channel and then i also uh go live on the hvac overtime, youtube channel on friday evenings with my buddies, and we just do kind of a hangout show and stuff so definitely come check that out. Okay, we will catch you on the next one.
Cooks: Bake in the kitchen
Chris: Bake the kitchen
More heat pump vids please!
Always Check The Heat Exchangers…Its An Issue Here In Midwest…
Considering the board is grounded I'm kinda shocked that static took it out especially running co2 for a blow out its more the plastics like the stuff running down hose aka like when we run sanders on vacuums for dust collection like don't get me wrong I've seen main boards on inverter welders main boards when working on them being taken out when doing a board swap but that's uncommon honestly grounding strap to you while blowing it out in the worst case but my area isn't quite as dry as your area
If 2nd stage is never engaged, why is it even sold to the customer? Seems like just wasted money.
Awesome Chris! Love to see more no heat calls!
A piece of string works better than a straight edge for pully alignment. It doesn't take up any room in the tool bucket either. Breeze Mechanical. I just stumbled upon your channel.
So, is that sheave intended to be a pressure clutch?
Why is there a 110 outlet inside the unit. and is there a inverter for 110? I’ve always wondered
I agree with you about those sloppy filters. I’ve cleaned up after “filter jockeys” many times. They just don’t get it.
Another great video Chris keep safe dude
You have a great eye ball Chris don't let anyone say otherwise
Personally, I’m not a fan of tightening belts. If I didn’t change it within the last year or so and it’s loose then I’m going to replace it. Great call though. I have replaced a handful of those ignition modules this winter
Can I be your apprentice? This is quality content 😅
Live in NorCal. So many condensing furnaces in my area. Condensate issues all day every day!
Glad u are fine ! happy new year and stay safe 😀
You should check the noisy exhaust fan XD
Eye-crometers are great when nothing else works, like a straight edge.
Love your explanation on each issue that is causing the problem and trying to resolve it
Don't buy stupid priced Fluke products — They're made in China, not U.S. — I have had nothing but problems with 337 clamp probe, 52II temp
(U.S. made lasted 12 years) — I currently have praise for the 971 humidity tester & 1587 Insulation tester (U.S. made) — BUT WILL NOT — REPEAT, WILL NOT REPLACE THEM WITH FLUKE AGAIN — IT'S GARBAGE — WHY PAY 3 TIMES THE PRICE FOR CHIT? — don't even get me started on HVACR replacement parts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
with proper alignment and tension a pulley should last around 5 years of continuous use if memory serves correct
Need help replacing my Fluke 337 amp meter (made in China) — UEi dl429b vs Fieldpiece — I'm biased toward Fieldpiece since it's made in Taiwan vs Communist China — I'm still fuming over the Fluke, which used to be best money could by — what do you guys think?
Interesting, never thought about Exhaust air (Vacuum) and Make up air as something in a building which would effect the pressure in the building. In my Industry, we have tanks that need to be kept at a pressure of around 1 inH20 and that is done by means of "injecting" make-up gas or a controlled valve on a vacuum line to pull down the pressure.
Wouldn't grounding yourself have prevented that from happening with the CO2 can? Personally, I don't touch the inside of my computer without doing so.
Loose belts wear out the pulley. Then wears out new belts when installed. Then the next step is belt dressing. The only proper way is keep the belt properly tightened to prevent worn pulleys and belts stretching from the heat generated by the slippage. You made the exact correct call, replace the pulley and belt. It is great seeing someone with integrity and know how at work. Service area Nepean??
If you blow CO2 or bottled 'air' on a cirquit board you basically are refrigirating it. It probably not failed due to static but due to watervapour condensating and shorting things out.
So did you lube the bearings on the blower shaft? All four? Big pitcher!!!! Did you fix the filters?? Are you in Kanata ?
Ive had a few no heat , I mainly do residential. Waiting for that summer $! Service area Ottawa??
Always check CO after touching a gas burner.
Huge liability
if you don't own a combustion analyzer at least get a CO analyzer. You can use it on any type of gas equipment.
Hot water heaters etc.
A must,I can't tell you how many times a year I find a gas burner running incorrectly.
Those Lennox units are tough units.
The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on
Oh-wo-ho, oh-wo-ho
Caught up in the action I've been looking out for you
Oh-wo-ho, oh-wo-ho
(Tell me can you feel it)
(Tell me can you feel it)
(Tell me can you feel it)
The heat is on, the heat is on, the heat is on
Oh it's on the street, the heat is on
Surprised you didn't clean the flame sensor with a $100 bill.
I find it a little hard to believe that a working commercial kitchen could be that cold…even in these times!
Changing the width of the drive pulley, will change the amp draw of the motor. Drawing higher than recommended amperage is an excellent way to destroy the motor, but I'm lazy and would rather replace the belt, they're lighter than a motor.
Also, if that building had a professional air balancing, changing the pulley's width will toss the air balance right out the window, and that is not saving the customer anything.
Funny, but my recent maintenance sweeps at a national sporting goods store have turned up issues on unit#3 at multiple stores. I just cannot turn of the technician part of my brain to just change filters🤷♂️
Great video as always.
So if your not suppose to adjust the pulley but a previous tech(s) did adjust it how are you suppose to know exactly the width opening of the pulley? Service area Orleans??
Cockeyed, now there’s a phrase you wonder about the derivation of. Some geezer that didn’t take his spirit level to work one day and improvised.
What skrillex song is this?
pro-tip for testing ignitors, try the 9-volt on the tongue trick. Are you in Nepean ?
The ignition part was really cool, thanks for the great videos as always!
No need to replace the electrode and flame sensor. Just clean them with a wire brush.
Good video Chris ,good pointers on the pulleys👍 Service area Barrhaven??
It’s not eyeball Chris it’s your laser eye vision 😉
Every time I deal with any service call I wash your videos as references to help me find an issue that I having a hard time finding, thank you so much for videos
Man i miss the mountains. Are you in Orleans ?
It’s funny I never realized the doors had those jam sticks lol usually after the wind smacks the door in to me like 2 or three times depending on what I’m doing I rip all the screws out of it and throw it on the ground lol Are you in Barrhaven ?
I don't normally replace the spark ignitor of flame sensor..i usually just clean them. Replacing them is good too.
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
Basic millwright skills – align and tension your belt drives, and you can go many years in most applications.
Those motor mounts in the package HVAC units are flimsy and awkward, and the pulleys look to be low cost items as well, so I don't expect you to get decades out of such a drive, but when you have really good components that are set up well, your limit on life is the elasticity of the belt, and I've worked with machine tools that have gone decades before needing a new belt and the pulleys are just lightly polished.
Decades in shops which are not air conditioned spaces. The roof-top exhaust fans are going to cook belts here in SoCal… sunlight plus hot gases from the kitchens will do that.
That long life is largely due to a pretty significant difference in quality of the system and alignment, because the belts are the same, and the pulleys aren't hugely better than on these HVAC units.
Not getting spark huh? Sounds like the points on my old 350 Chevy lol! Just change the points you’ll get spark in no time! And no straight edge on your belt alignment?!! You dirty… lol! Jk your eyeball is probably better than most techs measuring
a ribbed belt and a smothe is messuired diffrently, in sweden alteast. i cant remember if the smoothe is messuerd inside diameter and vice versa on a ribbed belt.