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We did an installation of some customer supplied, walk-in cooler equipment, so they had us install a new rdi systems, evaporator and condensing unit, and we ran a new line set uh. What i'm going to do today? We did this yesterday and we got the system operational, but today we're going to do the official startup. So i typically do this as long as the equipment's working and it's coming down to temperature. We let it run through the night and then we'll come back a day or two later and just do an official startup.

So when i walked in today, uh the temperature controller right there they're using a rebranded, ke2, therm, temp, plus defrost controller. Now this one says arctic fox again, it's just rebranded for for coal pack or rdi same company, but it's it's the same controller. So when i walked in it said 37 degrees. Now i want you to notice something um.

Well, i don't know if the camera is going to pick it up or not, but these new high efficiency, it's like a federal mandate. These walk-in evaporators and condensing units have special energy standards that they have to meet. So this one has a two-speed evaporator fan motor. So the temperature controller is currently not calling for cooling, so the evaporator fan motors slow down to like half speed and then as soon as it calls for cooling, it'll speed up and start moving some air.

Now i had nothing to do with the design of this equipment. All that we did was supply. The customers representative, the box dimensions the voltage and then they specked out the equipment size as far as btus and all that stuff. Now there is new, strict guidelines that you're supposed to meet.

You know this has happened on the residential side for years and the commercial side, and now it's hitting the refrigeration side that there they have energy standards that they require, that you meet to save energy and all that you know eco green stuff, which, whatever no opinion On that um, so we're going to do a startup on this. So what we want to see is is just i just monitor the natural operation, so i'm going to back up and i open the walk-in cooler door and we're going to let this evaporator turn on and when it turns on. I'm assuming you guys will be able to hear the difference, maybe not see the difference with the frame rate of the camera, but when the evaporative fan motors speed up all right, so the evaporator fan motors sped back up because we're calling for cooling now now on The ke2 therm temp, plus defrost controller, or in this case the arctic fox there's an led light in the bottom left hand corner. This led light indicates that it's calling for cooling right now, so we're going to go ahead and check out the set points uh.

We did edit this a little bit. Okay, that is our actual box set point: that's air temperature in the return air stream, 35 degrees. Okay, so we're going back out we're gon na look at the differential. We have a three degree differential.

We change that uh compressor starts per hour. We set that to zero. That is a delay uh. It protects the compressor.

We don't use that typically defrost per day. I set it to six. That's a little bit aggressive, but this customer's in and out of this box a lot defrost duration is 15 minutes and everything else is alarm features we don't have any of that set up, so we're not worried about that yeah. So that's it on that guy.

This guy's good now this is factory installed. We literally just hung the evaporator. If you look up here the way that we hang the evaporator, i think i've talked about this before is we do tech screws temporarily, and then we drill into the thing. So we get it up there, we find our measurements we center it level it.

You know, do everything we need to do, hold it temporarily with tech screws, and then we drill the holes and then mount it with quarter inch uh. You know bolts and nuts and all that good stuff, so everything's looking good there. If we come back here, um line sets going up. We have some some tape up there temporarily because we foamed the holes that we did.

We had to redo the holes now this one required, because the btus required a 5 8 3 8 line set um. I'm not i like this new armaflex. Let me turn on the flash. I like this new armaflex because it protects itself from getting ripped, but it doesn't do good for pushing over p-traps, not my favorite on that, but i mean it works.

It's functional. Okay looks like we probably could have done a little bit of a better job. Securing this right here, but i mean it's not the end of the world. This is the sensing bulb um.

Okay, so that's good we're looking good there. I don't see any problems. We sealed up all of our holes back in there you can see. There was some electrical holes and different things, so the tape just holds the spray foam that we pushed in from the top back all right.

So we're looking good we're going to open up the evaporator panels right in here and we're going to check the evaporator super heat came up onto the roof, we're just waiting for the evaporator to turn back on just looking at everything. You know we're not always going to achieve this amazing perfection. This works, it's fine. The lines supported, we sealed up the roof penetration because we did have to open it up.

We just put a little dab of silicone, then put the tech screws down to hold it on nice and sturdy. The line set is a uh, a soft line set. We do we try to do one piece line sets as much as possible, so the only braze joints are up here and down below and there's actually a braze joint right here too, but there's nothing in the attic as far as braised joints go that way when We can we try to do that that way, it just makes it easier next time when we're trying to find a leak, always try to make it easier for the next guy so um. My personal opinion is i'm not a huge fan of these units.

They're very disorganized, i don't like the the wiring and stuff, but i mean they're functional they work. So we're going to open up the top and we'll show you pulled the side panels off just to investigate. So these units come pre-installed with all their components. They use the sun sun hua sanua.

I don't know how to pronounce that components and i'll show you the expansion valve again, i'm not a fan, but i mean i guess it's functional. I don't really care for the sight glasses either because they're a little bit more difficult to see. But one thing i want to point out is one of the new things that i'm noticing on a lot of these new condensing units is the extra sub cooling circuit. So if you look at discharge line coming right into the condenser comes out of the condenser okay right here goes into the receiver comes out of the receiver goes back into the condenser.

Just to verify. Proper sub coin then comes out of the condenser down. Here goes to the liquid line: filter dryer then, to the side. Glass then downstairs.

So i've seen that on uh russell evaporators or uh cold zone. I've seen that i mean i'm sorry condensers wrestle condensers, so i'm assuming that's part of the new energy standard, uh we'll probably see that popping up a lot more on the the russell install that i did. I noticed that you actually had measurable sub cooling, which is very rare. I think i had 10 degrees of measurable sub cooling.

This unit does have a fan cycle control. One of the more common failure points i see on these is the fan cycle controls they use. These peanut style, so this is our low pressure and i believe this is our fan cycle. The yellow.

I see a high failure rate on these, but we'll see maybe they've changed something um yeah everything looks fine in here. You know. I really dig this. This new armaflex up here, because when you're pulling it through the attic and through the penetrations, it doesn't let it rip, you know and it's uv resistant, so that's kind of cool um.

This is just uh. I think it's like mueller pre-made line set. You know i didn't ask for this stuff. This is just what the customer has now uh.

This is an r448a system uh. It did come pre-charged with 5.5 pounds. That's good for up to a 50-foot line set um, don't see anything crazy again, not a super fan of this wiring, how it's just in here, but i mean it is what it is uh this i'm gon na try to move this away from the condenser. This is two i mean from the compressor.

This is too close to the compressor uh 220 degrees. Uh. You got to measure that back here. I don't know if they gave me enough room there, so i'm definitely going to move this as far away from there.

As i can, that's that's a little bit better. I'd still like to even see it further with 448a in the summertime they're going to have some high discharge temps for sure that's a very common thing with 448a but yeah, i don't see anything else scary. This is all factory, this insulation. They did use copeland compressors, so that's a plus.

They use these peanut style pressure controls. I already talked about those. They do have a time delay in here. There's no defrost clock because the defrost is built into the ketotherm or the firefox or whatever it is firefox.

That's like a super nintendo game um, but uh, whatever the key to thermia, vap efficiency or evap, temp, plus defrost control or whatever um. Okay. So we're gon na go ahead and gauge up on this guy up here and then we'll check those superheat numbers. Once we come on one thing i will say with the two speed evaporator fan motors: it takes a lot longer for the system to come on.

So um, let's see so we do have a fan cycle control. It just turned on right now. So that's a plus we're gon na watch the fan cycle control actually work. Of course, i don't have my high side probe on there, yet i'm actually going to turn it off that way.

I can get my high side probe on and we can see the cut-in of the fan cycle control. Okay, we are probed up um interesting. Let's see how good this one does. Normally we have a receiver you're not going to get a very cool sub cooling number very good sub coiling number on the last one of these that i did with that extra sub coin circuit.

I think i had measurable 10 degree sub cooling after the liquid line, filter dryer, so we're going to go ahead and measure right here, which is a ways away. Typically, you know sub cooling, we don't use it on the refrigeration side. We usually just clear the side. Glass we're looking for some sub cooling.

You can use it as a metric for a gross overcharge. If you have crazy high sub cooling, you know you can expect that you're overcharged or something's going on, but this is interesting, so normally measuring just coming out of the condenser, i typically see three to six degrees, subcoin, okay, on a normal system. Now, with this one we're going to measure here and let's see what we actually measure, we have a liquid line pressure right here. They don't have a true discharge port on here, so i can't measure discharge pressure, which is going to kind of skew.

My number for the fan cycle control because all that extra sub cooling um - i imagine, there's going to be a bit of a pressure drop between the high side pressure and the low side pressure. I'm sorry and the liquid line pressure not much i'd, say three to five. Psi would be my guess, but i can't really measure it because i can't see it um. So that's an interesting one but uh okay, we're ready to go discharge line, temperature, liquid line temperature outdoor air temperature, and then we have uh evap or suction pressure downstairs and suction temperature.

And then we have super heat sub cooling, all that. So let's turn it on. Um and see where the condenser fan motor turns on uh. Also, i've got my amp clamp here measuring total amperage, so we're about 185 196.

Let's wait for the condenser fan motor to turn on. I would imagine it's going to turn on about 250 up about 220, but again i don't know the exact one but okay, so we're going to probably see that cycle on and off and it's going to mess with our system. So let's have a look at that sub cooling. Look at that man, 11 degrees sub coin, measured on the outlet, after all, that stuff, that extra sub coin circuit really does work.

Uh 10 degrees super heat on the evaporator. I that's looking great um. Let's see what my discharge pressure or discharge line temperature is outdoor air, temps, 57 degrees, 128 degree discharge, temp, okay, yeah i mean box, temp is 37 degrees, so we're going to run for a minute we're just going to let it run and stabilize, but i like That superheat, i'm not going to try to adjust anything with that. Superheat number like that now this is a 448a system.

Um we're running a 17 degree, evaporator coil right now, that's not too bad uh. What's our evaporator td should tell us right here: evaporator td's, 20 degrees right now. Condenser td is about 23 degrees. That's pretty good for not using a micro channel um, pretty cool okay.

So i'm glad that they didn't just use a stock fan cycle control. They actually put a fan cycle control for r22 or 448a, which is good because normally the 200 250 would be on off on off on off, so they actually did do a decent job uh. It looks like we just satisfied so wow that was really quick um, but i'm i'm liking this. This is looking good, so i'm gon na watch it for a little bit longer and when it turns back on we'll uh we'll check the current draw and test the electrical and all that stuff, i have uh turned off power and verified it's off so we're good.

I'm gon na go ahead and just double tighten on the electrical controls. Make sure all the contacts are nice and tight. We're good we're good, we're good, don't see any scary wiring, i mean everything's, nice and snug in here. You know, like i said, i'm not a super fan of these units, but at least it's simple and we don't get a lot of crap.

I think i like this icm cycle control here or short cycle time delay. It looks pretty nice kind of i like the quality of it, a little bit better than the ones that are used on the heat craft units, um yeah, nothing too crazy, everything's, looking good so, like i said, we're gon na watch this thing cycle a few times Make sure everything else is good. Uh yeah, we wrote startup on it. Yesterday i wrote the charge 448a, so everything's looking good and while we're waiting for it, you know you want to look to make sure nothing's loose.

You want to look for wires. That might rub out on discharge lines. Um, don't see anything make sure everything's secured as best as possible. Looking okay, i don't see anything scary.

This is not good. I mean the way that these wires are run together, but can only do so much. You know. People comment all the time in my videos about the american standard of wiring and and it's true this - this is kind of silly.

They get away with ul approval and different things like that, because it's within an enclosed cabinet. It's true that in other parts of the world you know, everything's ran in conduits and better secured and better connection points um, you know just kind of how it is we just got to deal with what we got looks like we're getting ready to turn back on. My box temp, is at 37.7 degrees, so i think it'll turn on at the end of 37 right at 38. I think five, six, seven eight.

I think i think i had a three degree differential, so anyways, we'll see you saw that how the compressor cycled on for a second it still isn't calling but what's happening, is the pressure's rising in the suction line, and it slowly turns it on. But that's why we also have the uh time delay. So that way, you don't do short cycling on the compressor, sometimes on the adjustable pressure controls you can set the cutting and cut out too low and you can have on off on off on off heat craft. Has a real bad habit of that right now and those time delays really are helpful to prevent that compressor short cycling.

So we're still waiting for this guy to turn on. You can see that two-speed evaporator really slows down the on off time because it's uh 38 degrees in the box, and it's been that way for a good five minutes, at least maybe 10 minutes. So our system just turned back on so we're waiting for the fan cycle. Control to kick in uh current draw is about three amps right now and rising it's going to go up with the condenser fan motor.

Turning on so it just turned on. We had a peak and then it dropped down 3.65. Our total load on the unit's about 5.9, so we're under current draw. Let's get a condenser fan motor current draw real, quick, condenser fan motor is running at .64.

Amps uh condenser fan motor doesn't have it on here. 0.5. Let's see it again. That's interesting.

Let's see what the actual condenser fan motor says. We can run 0.5 amps huh, that's interesting, so condenser fan motor is right. It's slightly over amping, but there's not a whole lot. I can do about that .64 amps, i'm not too worried about it, but we'll make a note of that on startup, uh compressor itself.

Um is doing fine. Let's check the crankcase heater uh we're not getting measurable. Amperage, but it's a very small heater, so i might need to wrap it or something um. Let me grab it: it's hot, the crankcase heater's hot, sometimes on these small ones.

You got ta wrap it around, but they didn't give me enough room there to be able to measure it. Okay, side glass is clear. So the only thing i'm a little concerned about on this startup is that condenser fan motor slightly over amping uh. That is a weird motor.

It's kind of warm the last thing i'm going to check on it. I mean there's not a whole lot. I can do this. Isn't my system here uh.

I will say that we are running. We should check voltage too to see what voltage we're actually running. I believe it was slightly over 208 volts. If i remember correctly, um yeah, that's pretty much.

It looks like we just came down and satisfied all right. This is a three microfarad capacitor we're running right at three microfarads. I pulled one lead off, i mean there's nothing else. Really.

I could do about that. Condenser fan motor. It's some weird off-brand, just like everything else in this unit, so i didn't sell in this unit. This is what it is, so i'm just going to report all my stuff down, give it to the customer and they can do what they will with it.

I probably put a 97 21 fasco motor on there to replace that silly. Looking thing, i'm not a fan of all these weird after dirt, off-brand components. I, like i'm stubborn and i like my spoiling components and my fasco components and but hey. I guess, i'm just a creature of habit.

All right. I wanted to prove that the crankcase heater was working and i couldn't leave well enough alone. So, first off i came over here to the electrical section and found the crankcase heater wires. Okay, um turned off power, measured the resistance across the crankcase heater, the resistance value that i measured was 1.46 k, ohms, okay, i went ahead and put this back on measured the voltage 213 volts.

Okay, then what i did was uh. I wanted to measure the current draw across the uh heater, but my meter doesn't go low enough. Okay, so what i did was i double wrapped the wires. Okay.

Let's do this again, real quick. So if we just simply double wrap the wire around my clamp head, let me do this with my one hand in here: okay, so we've wrapped it two times and all of a sudden we get a resistance, or i mean we can measure current now. But that's not an accurate number, that's 0.30 amps, but we need to divide that by two because we measured or we wrapped it twice, so that would be 0.15 amps okay, so we are actually measuring current 0.15 amps. If we go over to our ohm's law calculator - and we input the 213 volts that i measured and we input the resistance value that i measured 1.46 k, ohms, okay, we're given some numbers when we hit calculate 31 watts is what we're delivering, and this is should Be our amp uh reading and it's in milliamps, okay, 145.890 milliamps divide that by a thousand or move the decimal place all the way over three times.

One. Two three that's point one: four: five amps okay and we're measuring point one: five. Now, there's a little discrepancy. There, but that's just the accuracy of the meter, so this crankcase heater is working properly and it's delivering what it's supposed to be delivering and if we come over here um it says the heater watts are 40 watts and yeah we're within range and with that being Said that probably explains why we're slightly higher than what the rated motor amps are on that condenser fan motor because we're not actually delivering 230 volts we're delivering lower than 230 volts.

It is allowed to run 208 230, but i'm interested to know it's saying: 0.5 amps um. I bet you that's just because we're below 230 volts, all right, um well we're gon na go downstairs all right. My box is currently satisfied down in here, but everything looks fine in here. Nothing too crazy.

Again they went with some funky, it's a sun, sun, hula valve or something tiny little thing i would say they would. My personal opinion is they'd, probably be better off if they were going to use a stainless steel power head like they did with using a stainless steel capillary tube, because this copper one is going to be susceptible to rub outs, it's not as strong as the stainless Steel and it's not replaceable, you got to change the whole valve. It's not like a spoiling valve that you know. If the power head went bad, you could just change the power head other than that i mean it works.

They use an emerson valve solenoid valve. You know the wiring in these things is not really impressive, but it's not horrible motors. In there two speed we're on low speed right now. You've got your two speed relay up in there.

That's fine! Your electrical in here everything's looking good so far, so i'm not seeing any issues so when this thing turns on we're just going to start putting everything back together, the box is working and we're going to give it to the customer and we're done with it. Now i will say the expansion valve's rather loud, you can see it was at 0 degrees superheat a minute ago, and then, when the valve starts adjusting man, you can hear that, but all right well we're still right within range, maintaining right around 10 degrees, super heat. So, let's see what my box temp well, my box temp right now is about 37 degrees, all right, so that was just a typical startup. You know it's difficult for me to normally show actual equipment installations on video because there's so many moving parts.

I have people there, it's just always difficult. Okay, this one. It just so happened that i wasn't able to do the the superheat check and everything the day that we did the startup. So i went ahead and went back and i was there by myself.

So i was able to go and film it now um. I always always when i start up the equipment. In my situation, the customer is having me typically replace, walking, cooler, walk and freezer equipment on existing operating equipment. Okay, so i'm doing a retrofit replacement.

Basically, so we're under a time crunch when we do that, because we have active food inside the box and we have to be careful that the box temperatures don't get too high while we're doing our installation. We have to factor that into our install. So with that being said, i don't really have time to stop film. You know and do that kind of stuff, but on top of that we're usually under the gun and we have to get the equipment operating as fast as possible.

So that way we can get it up and running oftentimes. I will come back after the fact, the next day or two later and do a basic start-up just to make sure that everything is working properly. Now, of course, when i do that, i don't leave the equipment, you know, i make sure that it actually drops in temp. I look at some vital signs and make sure that it's operating before i leave okay.

So in this case i went ahead and went back just did my typical startup just making sure that everything is you know running like it should be, i did not even have to adjust the expansion valve. The super heat was right where it should be. Um didn't really have to change. Much of anything, i changed a parameter on the temperature controller.

I didn't catch it on film, but the defrost strategy was not correct, so i changed the defrost strategy and then i just proved. I showed you guys how i proved that the actual crankcase heater was working. I like to watch the fan cycle, control turn on and off, and one thing as i was editing this video that i realized i should have done was. I should have wrote on the equipment panels.

What uh, the evaporator td, the condenser td was, and the fan cycling cut in and cut out was so the next time i go back through i'll definitely write that down on the equipment that way the next tech knows now, once you know the standard operating td. Okay - and it's also important to understand something just because it was designed with a 15 degree td or a 10 degree td, whatever the manufacturer designed it with, doesn't necessarily mean it's always going to perform that way, there's different factors that go into play there, depending on How the manufacturer size the equipment and that kind of stuff? Okay? Now i had nothing to do with the equipment sizing here, so i don't know what kind of a td evaporator td they expect when they designed and sized the evaporator. So i can just go off of the system seems to be running properly. We did have a 20 degree, evaporator td, which is a little bit steep.

I don't expect it to usually be that high, usually 10 to 15 degrees, but it's operating fine. I didn't see anything wrong so from that point forward we can assume that the td, more than likely, is going to stay the same and if you know the evaporator td. So when i go back - and i write it down on the panel, then you can predict what the refrigerant pressures are going to be: okay based off of the temperatures. So if we know that the evaporator td was 20 degrees on startup, and it maintains that then the next time i go in there to work on it, we can assume that the evaporator td will be 20 degrees below the box temperature.

Okay and i'm sorry, the evaporator temperature will be 20 degrees below the box temperature. Therefore, we can predict what our refrigerant pressure should be for the most part now keep in mind you want to, when you're doing that, you want to make sure that the box is kind of down to temperature, because the expansion valve can do all kinds of funky Stuff, when it's really feeding hard, you know or trying to bring that coil temperature down. So that's why they say you make super heat adjustments and so forth. When the unit is almost satisfied and or near, you know satisfying um.

So you got to be careful about that kind of stuff, but just writing down that data really helps me out. Obviously i have video logs of all this stuff. So that's a a benefit that i have you know i can go back and look at what was the operating pressures? What was this thing doing? You know that kind of stuff, okay, but always double, checking your work, making sure you know when we're doing those installs again. I said we're kind of under a time crunch.

So sometimes we skip steps. We forget to clamp things down or what maybe it you know. So you always want to look around. That's pretty much it on this one, not too much of a crazy video.

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