Well I've been teasing this project for a while and while its not even started yet, this is the intro video.
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12523 LIMONITE AVE.
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00:00 TEASER
00:23 VIDEO START
01:37 NICE AIR SEALING
02:36 CUSTOM FILTER RACK
04:35 LUKE
10:27 HOUSE WALK THRU
18:15 SYSTEM VITALS
HVACR VIDEOS NEW MERCH WEBSITE - https://www.hvacrvideos.com
Please consider supporting my channel by
Becoming a Patreon member - Patreon https://www.patreon.com/Hvacrvideos
Becoming a YouTube channel member https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5Pnrxqqg4BLTsfsUzWw5Pw/join
By purchasing tools via my affiliate links below at TRUTECHTOOLS.COM and use the offer code BIGPICTURE to save 8% on your total purchase (exclusions apply)
Visiting my website and purchasing merch https://www.hvacrvideos.com
HVAC OVERTIME CHANNEL LINK - https://www.youtube.com/c/HVACOvertime
Social Media
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/HVACR-Videos...
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/hvacrvideos/
For any inquiries please contact me at chris @hvacrvideos.com
Mailing Address
HVACR VIDEOS
12523 LIMONITE AVE.
440 - 184
MIRA LOMA, CA. 91752
00:00 TEASER
00:23 VIDEO START
01:37 NICE AIR SEALING
02:36 CUSTOM FILTER RACK
04:35 LUKE
10:27 HOUSE WALK THRU
18:15 SYSTEM VITALS
Wouldn't an inverter system be more quiet? It also wouldn't turn on and off like that.
drop a line to Matt Risinger. hes got a youtube channel. he went crazy on hvac for his home hes got all sorts of videos on it too. would be a cool collaboration
If you don't end up sealing and spray-foaming the attic to bring it into the conditioned space, be sure to blow in more insulation. My parents did that on their late-80's house a decade ago. There was barely 4" of insulation and we blew in enough that it's at least 1' deep everywhere now. Now, the heat pump only ever runs in the middle of the night in winter. It more than halved the heating costs and shortened the heating season from ~4 months to ~2.5 months. They generally are able to run just the swamp cooler most of the rest of the year (minus monsoon season during July & Aug when humidity gets too high for it to be effective). Because the swamp cooler is so cheap to run, the additional insulation didn't have a huge impact on summer cooling bills. Despite that, It has paid for itself several times over now. Service area Nepean??
Just my 2 cents, not an expert. Have a maintenance pad for your new condensing unit with inverter technology. Possibly an air to air heat exchanger for the fresh air. When your bath and kitchen exhausts are running, make up air is probably as you say coming in from the can lights and the fireplace.
Correctly size the return air grille (yours is way too small), ensure that the ducts are insulated, if reusing the ducts have them cleaned, ensure duct joints are sealed.
That's a good idea you had about a separate mini-split for your room as the load is variable. Can't wait for your next videos.
Go extreme 😀
Really want to see cool tech
If you get an inverter based system you can oversize it all you want and in reality you should calculate the worst case heating and cooling load (take into account extreme outside ambient conditions) and size a unit larger than that. If you go for fresh air exchange while an ERV/HRV would recover some heat/cooling you would also have to take that into account. Having an indepent dehumidifier and humidifer on the whole house circuit would also improve indoor comfort.
lmao am i too european to understand this joke?
Go light commercial crazy in a residential house. Mitsubishi/Diakin/Panasonic/… all have VRF branch control type units that allow for heating and cooling demands at the same time, perfect for rooms with computer heating loads. You could even add a ducted filtered and cooled/heated fresh air handler. These systems would be able to get your house to a perfect temp silently with inverter everything. (variable fan, blower, refrigenant, heat pump)
You should also get a dedicated fresh air system with dehumidifer, humidifer, HEPA, HRV/ERV seperate from the heating and cooling system
If you want to go slightly less ham Mitsubishi has single/multi-zone high efficiency heat pumps that work well and are basically silent even at high static pressure you can mix and match central air handlers with concealed duct handlers.
Inverter is your go to for comfort and energy. The short/rapid cycling is hard on contactors ,start gear and your constant inrush currant. Go the whole way and do ground source heatpump design. Most energy efficient as uses the ground for the exchange which doesn't really change all year round. On most we get 4:1 ratio and doesn't matter if freezing outside or a scorcher the ground stays the same temp in the ground.
I'm excited to see this project more than you know
Heat recovery mini split for household hot water showers wash machine even a hot tub Service area Barrhaven??
Let me start by saying im not an hvac professional just watch lots on YouTube but the The bosch ids 2.0 systems look interesting. From what i've seen on youtube mikey pipes loves them and they seem extremely efficient and very well built.
G910! – love that keyboard! Service area Kanata??
Carrier Greenspeed Extreme!
My dad has to have the fan on for he can sleep
Well Chris, if you "really" want to go extreme. Put a temp sensor in each room and add zone dampers to direct the cooling air where needed, and then automate it all with some sort of home automation. For fresh air, i like the idea of adding an economizer behind those exterior louvers. At least, thats what I'd do. But i like complicated things like that.
If you really want to go all out, look into a heat pump for your hot water needs. You get cool air as a side effect. The only thing better would be to go solar.
As for your office, I'm sure it gets hot with the door closed – no return air. Does your computer really create 2000 BTU, or is that just its max output? Might want to consider letting it go into lower power modes when you're not actively using it.
I'd like to see a thermal image of your house, both inside and out to see what the heat flow is like. Second, I'd look at ways to cool the attic – such as a ultra white roof and lots of ventilation. Either a solar powered fan or lots of passive vents at the peak.
Foam your attic in. It’s so worth it
If cost wasn't a huge concern I would go with a 5 ton vrf (fujitsu). You could put a high static air handler in the attic for the common area. Then a cassette or wall hung in each room including the garage. You can put up to 14 zones on one condenser using headers. With cooling the garage 5 ton should be close and the condenser will ramp down to meet the load. When your not I the garage turn it off. When not in the rooms turn them up. Each room has its own temp control and the unit can heat and cool simultaneously. Plus they are like 26 seer. Now this is only if cost isnt an issue because they are expensive but really really nice!!
I would've thought your house would be clean , it's a pig pen.
Its funny how you say go fancy with an inverter. Almost every residential system sold in Australia (whether ducted or mini split, both are equally common) is an inverter and a heat pump. Very little classic or cooling-only.
Try a daikin, Mitsubishi, vrv with a branch box. Up to 8 ports. You can run a air handler and multiple ductless off one system. Even a cassette style in the ceiling,floor mount , ducted mini zones. There are a lot of options!
Poor family, i have the same issue i need to hear some fan or buzz in order to sleep good. I can sleep without it, but i just don't get a proper rest. I am hammered when i wake up otherwise.
I worked all my life in enclosed enviroments; Datacenter, Bunker, Deep shaft/mine. All IT related work and sleep on site. And that humm of aircon/computer fans is just a must these days for me.
Amana is the highest we've priced, but Bosch was the most efficient. Do you have 3PH in your neighborhood?
Beautiful dog
Do a mini split for the office for sure. Having that room on it's own t-stat will make it comfortable even with the 2000 BTU computer load.
Extreme set up will be epic and worth it make it look Insain !
I want to see you go as crazy as possible. Like you said. The crazier, the funner. Maybe you should turn your pantry into a walk in freezer too.
It’s the mechanics car. Are you in Ottawa ?
Boy this is gonna be a fun crazy ride!! It’s gonna be interesting seeing what solutions you come up for the duct work, especially since you have high static and it seems like you’re interested in really sealing up the ductwork.
I would recommend looking at trane’s variable speed equipment, (TAM 9, XV19) there thermostats (850, 1050 have lots of options to control humidifiers, fresh air ventilation systems, zoning airflow percentages, etc… Great for lots of system add-on’s.
Also Shoemaker manufacturing makes some top notch registers and grills, that shower performance data!
I wish you did residential HVAC in San Diego. My blower is extremely loud as well, but don’t think it’s over sized. Would love to have a whole home performance test to see how bad the leaks are! Any recommendations on a San Diego area performance tester? Are you in Kanata ?
I hate noisy air handlers!! I'm in a condo in FL, so space is limited and this thing is in a closet right next to the TV. Are you in Nepean ?
Set temp to 50 degrees also Lennox
That's so funny my friends dad was an excellent auto mechanic and he owned about 10 cars and none of them ran 🙂
simple is nice for cost effectiveness and reliability. Are inverter boards available in 10 years? But you get more fun with an inverter plus easy zoning for each room. Service area Ottawa??
Water cool your PC, tint your windows. I'd do an attic system , you have that weird ceiling I'd frame out and run a chase to give you more options as far as where you can put ducts.
Luke is so cute, comes to help ya with your work ^^ Are you in Orleans ?
You should do a geothermal heat pump they are amazing we have 2 4tons in our house and keep it gets to 100 -10 degrees in summer and have had no issues we keep are house at 74 to 72 in summer and have only had one power bill over 6 years of having this system only one was 600 dollars usually 400. The one downside is cost for drilling the well but it is worth it with the power savings
Come to RSD and buy a RUUD HP split. I would definitely recommend moving the air handler into the attic with a complete new duct system. The old school way of putting a furnace/air handler into a closet or garage is effective but not the best. It takes up alot of good living space and just looks ugly. That's why most new home builds are in the attic. They even install fresh air exhaust with damper control. So don't think your to extreme. That is where residential is headed. Are you in Barrhaven ?
If considering a heat pump I suggest Bosch's IDS 2.0. They are inverter driven and great for lowering electric bills
Heat pump Mitsu inverter system. For building science stuff, look at some of the videos by Matt Risinger. He had a lot of good stuff on really sealing his house up and fresh air delivery. For the computer room, consider getting an enclosed rack and venting it out. That's how you would do it in a data center.
Rheem20 seer heatpump
Insulate as well as possible, windows are often the big sinner in heat exchange.
I need a fan to sleep too.
get a chilled water system.
Brave man, thank you for this video
Whatever you decide to go, you should go Inverter… The power consumption is waaay lower…
Mitsubishi multi city system through the house. They’ll modulate temps per the spaces and for your office will keep cool they can all be ran off one condenser lineset to a master box telling what AHU to cool and how much. All ran off EXVs
Given that your house was built in the early 90s, even the little bits of infiltration you probably have here and there, I don't think that's going to make as big of a difference as you think. My house was built in the 1950s and added onto a couple of times but is just a bit smaller than your house total. I also have substandard insulation in some places and my house leaks like a sieve. Maybe the master bedroom doggy door and the bathroom window should be your first target. Then the office due to its large internal load. As far as the HVAC system goes, I would consider doing multiple-zone split system. Mitsubishi even makes a traditional north-american style fan-coil (I have one 3-ton in my house in the open ventilated attic and our design temp is just as hot as yours, plus a 1.25-ton wall-mount in my office/bonus room with a 4-ton outdoor). Perhaps replace the ducted unit with maybe a 3-ton unit and use wall mount units in the hot spots (you don't even have to blank off ductwork, just maybe close registers to shift the load from the ducted to the wall-mounts, that's what I did in my office). Or you could go whole-hog multi-zone ductless everywhere but I think the ducted unit for the main parts of the house and additional zones for some of the bedrooms and office could be a good compromise. I do mostly commercial design, and to me residential is actually harder because houses are more complex overall and less consistent. Happy to help with additional comments if I can.
Encapsulated attic will make a world of difference. Hrv unit for fresh air, look at Matt risinger videos for sure for the building science stuff
Look into a zone controller
I believe spray foam makes houses harder to sell because inspector can’t see the condition of the structure. My suggestion is expanding that current return. I like returns on the floor because it keeps particles on the ground rather then flying past your face.
We stay around 75% humidity here in Memphis. 1800 square foot home here can use every bit of 4 tons. My home is 1500 square foot with 4 tons of cooling. I do keep the place 68 while I'm here and 76 when I'm gone with my wifi thermostat. Furnace is in the attic with return in every room so it's nice and quiet. Im never able to say this but I wouldn't change a thing about this system it works great and the utility bill is low for my area. Furnace is a Trane from 1994, Goodman ac and coil from 2012. In the summer my utility bill including water is between 300-350 which is about right for how cold we keep the place. I would place your system in the attic and add a couple more returns just for efficiency and noise. Keep it 4 ton but do a dual stage or variable unit. You can use first stage to keep humidity low and not consume much power but when it's 120 outside second stage will come in. I like Bosch inverters personally.
I dont know hows its on your region, but in brazil basically every room has its own mini split, the majority is reversible (basically a heat pump) and we are on a big chage to inverter systems. I see central ACs as a practicality here, we usually dont have humidity problems. And I dont work on hvac to be clear kkkkk
1.) Evaluate fireplace damper, doggy-door, bath window – repair 2.) Hire contractor to air-seal house to 3 ACH 3.) Run blower door 4.) Do heatload calc with blower door numbers 5.) Size H.P. to heatload, ductwork will now be sized better. NOTE: if you seal below 3 ACH air-to-air exchange system will be REQUIRED, not optional. Lower is better, just up to you. Service area Orleans??
I'm no AC expert at all but I literally just got done replacing my furnace and evaporator coil your videos have helped but of course having a bit of practice at it has helped too I decided to go with Goodman because it was the easiest I could obtain online since I'm not an HVAC company it's hard to get equipment from supply houses best of luck to you I think your 4-ton system on an 1800 square foot house in California is probably just about the right size I remember reading somewhere it's 1 ton for every 450 to 500 ft
Anything over 16 seer, use .05 static will save time and problems.