In this video, Joshua Griffin explains how some homes may not need zoning and others absolutely should. Pros and Cons of zoning in homes and when you may or may not consider it.
HVAC zoning is the process of separating your heating and cooling system so it delivers different comfort levels to each area of the home. This process allows you to set the conditions independently for each section of your house. You might keep the bedrooms cooler at night while focusing your air conditioning on the kitchen and living room areas during the day. HVAC zoning gives you a higher degree of control and customization over the temperature in your home.
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Hey guys before we get to the video, please click that subscribe button, hey guys, joshua griffin here serving the middle peninsula and the northern neck of virginia, wanted to do a video on zoning and just a little preface i'm not going to get super crazy in this Video, if there's something specific that you're wondering about just give me a comment below, but i wanted to address a few things when it comes to a zoning system on your regular central ducted system. I wanted to touch on a few times that you know it makes sense to have zoning and then there's times when. Maybe it doesn't make sense to have zoning and i'm actually going to start with that when it doesn't make sense versus when it does, because you know it might surprise you, but i know a lot of times, companies that do what i do they're going to push It or you know if it's an extra they're trying to sell you something or whatever and before i get into everything. I just want to say that if ductwork is installed properly, so if it's sized right, everything's installed right and then the system is installed correctly, you should get, i would say, within five cfms or so the vent, that's the furthest away from the system versus the vent.

That's the closest to the system you should get within five or ten cfms out of both. It should not matter that that vent is so far away. I've seen houses where the ducts weren't sized properly or installed properly, and so you start getting these vents that are further away and they don't have the velocity. They don't have the oomph to you, know heat and cool that space.

So if everything is installed right and sized right, you should have relatively the same. Everything should be balanced, it should be all blowing out correctly and all that good stuff. I just want to start with that. So if you have an instance in your home, where you are having low airflow out of one vent versus another or something like that, adding a zoning system or even just a manual damper, may actually fix that.

But that's not, in my opinion, the root of the problem. So if you're having that, then you know somebody needs to take a look at what you have going on again. Let's talk about instances that maybe it doesn't necessarily make sense for you to have zoning and again we're just talking about basic zoning systems. Regular, you know you're gon na have your zoning module and dampers that open and close no modulating stuff for communicating stuff in this video uh.

There's systems out there that you can do all kinds of crazy stuff with, and i'm not gon na talk about any of that in this video we're just talking about a simple you know in one area it has a thermostat with a damper. If that thermostat calls that damper opens, brings the system on and blows air into that area, when does it not make sense for you to have a zoning system installed? Well, first thing, i would say, is: if you have a house, that's sort of an open floor plan concept or a space of that nature. I don't think you necessarily need to spend the money on you know putting in anything crazy. You know putting in zoning and all that stuff uh.
You know you may have to regulate the air or change this or that based on hot and cold spots in your home. But as i've already said, if everything is installed properly and sized properly, you shouldn't have those types of issues anyway, not saying you won't ever have anything, but in general you should not be having those sorts of issues. So that would be the first thing. I would throw out there.

The other thing is i've seen houses where you know it'll be a choppy floor plan and they'll have just like this tiny little bedroom with its own zone. You know and and their thought process is well, you know if that room's, hot or cold versus the rest of the house, then you know i don't need to heat and cool the rest of the house, i'll just heat and cool that room that we're spending time In or whatever, and it's a smaller space that gets right back to if everything's installed, properly and so on, if you have a small zone like that and you're turning on this, you know, let's just say you have a four ton system, so you got this massive System that has the capability of doing all this square footage and all this space in a house and you're. Turning on that monster of a system as far as capacity to heat and cool, just this little tiny room in my opinion - and you know, there's there's been studies about whether it's more efficient to have a zoning system or not and all this stuff, but just in General, just from a a common sense standpoint: if you got this monster of a system coming on just to heat and cool this little space, it's not the best for that system in general. To be honest with you now there are systems that they'll install bypass dampers.

So that that extra air has somewhere to go and there's a systems that they'll they even have like a temperature probe on the supply side of your air handler or furnace, and that will tell the outdoor unit to shut off. If the air coming out is too much of a difference, you know, so there are things that will help mediate that but just in general, if you got this monster of a system running and imagine if you're breathing through your mouth, but you can only ever breathe Right, you know i'm covering all those other zones and you got to live your entire life like that through breathing through just that little hole. You know the wear and tear on that system. Again, in my opinion, i'm sure, there's heating and air guys that have had other experiences.

There's people on youtube way, smarter than me. They love commenting on my videos and telling me how smart they are, but i'm just saying in general from a common sense standpoint. I don't know that you need zoning. If you have that small room, if there's a problem temperature problem in there, then your issue gets back to the installation or the sizing or whatever.
You might need to take a look at that. Have somebody that knows how to do all that stuff? The last thing i'll say is: if you have a house that is heating and cooling, just fine, and now you've got some heating and air tech trying to sell you zoning, because, in their opinion, your comfort level will go up or whatever again, i would say just In general, i don't know that you need to spend money on all the dampers and all it's really more stuff that you're gon na have to maintain it's. You know stuff that can go bad, dampers go bad and those zones stop or whatever. It's just my opinion that if everything's installed right, you won't, you won't have any issues with that.

Now, let's talk about when it makes sense for you to have zoning. So if you've got a house and you're wondering if you should do zoning, when does it actually make sense for you to have zoning well, the first thing immediate first thing that comes to mind for me, is when you have multiple levels in a house. So, let's just talk, you know, there's there obviously there's different scenarios and all kinds of different houses out there, but just in general, if you have a house, that's a two-story house and you have one system supplying the downstairs and the upstairs. I don't care how good your duck guy is.

I don't care how good he is. He will never be able to size or install that duct work properly so that the upstairs and the downstairs stay at the same temperature all year long. What do i mean by that? Well, let's just say the the guy is great and he sizes it and gets it just perfect to where, in the summertime on a hot summer day, the upstairs is getting a little more air than the down, because heat rises and all that sort of stuff. So you're getting everything, nice and perfectly comfortable well, come winter time now.

You've got all that extra airflow heat rises and you've got all that extra airflow dumping into the upstairs. So hopefully that makes sense because heat rises and some sometimes you know when you have a two-story house, you've got you know where the upstairs is going to be a little bit warmer, whether it's in the summer or the winter, the upstairs that heats rising and so In those cases, i think that it does make sense for you to have zoning. If you don't want to have two separate systems in your home, then you need to have zoning on that. One system where the ducks go up to the upstairs or you know, vice versa, ducks going down to the downstairs or whatever you need to have that zoning system to be able to close off the other level when one level calls for heat or cool next i'll, Say if you are wondering, if you need zoning or whatever i do think it does make sense that if you have areas of your home that you're going to spend time in versus areas that you're not it, there is something to be said for not heating and Cooling a space as much as the areas that you're spending time in, but it gets back to that scenario i was saying before you know: if you got just a small little bedroom or just a small space and you're trying to make that his own, i mean Most houses, i would say you don't need more than two three four zones.
You know if you've got a system where you got all these zones and you got bedrooms and this and that you're just starving that system for air at times. So if you got you know, i don't know a thousand square feet per zone or you know every house is different, so you know i wouldn't use that as a general rule, but just in general, as i'm chatting about this, i'm just saying that you know if You have a 3 000 square foot house and you want to do three zones or whatever, and hopefully the guy laying out the duct work, put some common sense thought into you know this should be in this zone and that sort of stuff. So you can save some energy that way. You know if you're, not spending as much time in a certain part of the house - and you know you don't want to shut that part of the house off entirely.

But you know you want to if it's summertime set that temperature to where, if it gets, you know above say, 75. You know at least bring it back down to that point, the system's just not running all the time or whatever then you'll save a little bit. Energy, you know you're only cooling, that space that you're spending time in again. Hopefully that makes sense, i'm not getting all the modulating stuff or some of the systems have sensors instead of thermostats and spaces and different types of zoning.

You know i'm not getting into all that because you're talking about a whole nother animal whole other monster when it comes to that modulating and communicating stuff there's times when you know, if you got an inverter system, you can supply, you know air to smaller spaces and Things like that without starving the system for air because the system can ramp down. So you know, i would just say, talk to your installer find out. What's the pros and cons, you know, if, if you don't do zoning versus whether or not you do do zooming? Yes, i did just say: do do um, but you know just talk to them and and find out the pros and cons. I think the people that do what we do the best are the ones that you know number one.

You can talk to them, but number two. They can tell you why they are doing what they're doing i mean are. Are they just installing something? Just so they can sell you something or do they have a legit concrete reason why they think your home is going to be more comfortable or the system's going to be more efficient, and you know so on to install this zoning system. So i hope that helps.

I appreciate you watching and if you again, if you do have any questions, just put a little comment down in the comments, and i will try to help you with that. So, thanks for watching, if you're in our coverage area, give us a call we'd love to earn your business if you're, not in our coverage area - and you are in the market for a new heating and air system, you got ta check out my new website. I'll put a link to it down in the notes. It's called new hvac guide, dot com and i've put so much stuff on this website things that manufacturers and other contractors don't even want you to know, i'm putting it on this website.
I even have a whole page called no nos things to stay away from while you're you know replacing your heating and air system so check that out, and please subscribe thanks for watching.

16 thoughts on “Pros and cons of hvac zoning do you need it? basic zoning systems explained. honeywell etc.”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars F165 says:

    My problem is a guy told me 2 years ago. I need a new a/c unit for $5,000. He said he didn't know why my a/c would work fine for an hour and then blow warm air. Last year another guy came and added freon for $329. My a/c worked fine all summer. He said I did need a new unit but his fix would take care of the warm air.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bryce Lawmaster says:

    never been a fan of zoning unless its by using multiple ac systems.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sean Mathews says:

    Central Air zoning systems are an attempt to create a central cooling system that can be operated like the domestic water system or electricity in your home so you can for example turn your lights on in one room and off in another.
    It never really works right because in heating and cooling you have to have so much airflow across an evaporator or heat exchanger.
    Even if the ductwork is sized right it can be problematic. Customers often times misuse them by setting one zone at 70 and another at 85 all night and end up with a frozen coil in the morning. Now you can overcome that problem with an anti freeze Stat but it reaches a point where it all becomes impractical.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Natural Healing says:

    OMG, I need your help. In Chicago area, every thing is natural gas. Tri level house. Currently one over sized furnace that is going. Upstairs return ducts actually giving supply air. All return ducts were panned. I opened up the ceiling in lower level to expose the ductwork. Someone disconnect the return ductwork, left gaps so large I could put my hand in them. Replacing everything. All HVAC guys tell me zoning will work. In my experience it doesn't. I don't use all three levels. At times I want to turn one level off or only slightly condition it, we use completely use the other level. I am convinced I need three systems. I was thinking of ductless minisplits for some of the areas to achieve the zoning and because I don't have enough room for adequate ducts. What do you think, tri-level, minimal room to run ductwork. Are you in Nepean ?

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars P.J. Miller says:

    One quick question please. I'm about to build a home with a bonus room above the garage. When you come up the stairs the room will be an L shape. It is about 250 sq ft in front of you and when you turn to the right thru a door there is a room that is about 400 sq ft. The room won't be used a whole lot but as my girls get older, currently 4 and 2 i imagine it will be used all the time. Would you go with a zoning system with 2 thermostats or use 2 ductless mini splits. I'm hung and could really use an expert opinion. Thanks

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars rodhoutx says:

    Sharing my experience with a zoned house. I have a 3-story townhome with a simple 2-zone system. The ducts are slightly oversized per the manual and not oversized capacity. It is definitely great to have in the winter as you explained. Don't need hot air blowing upstairs as much as downstairs. Also, it seems to be better to not do too large a setback in winter (even with natural gas furnace) otherwise a lot of hot air shoots upstairs via the staircase. It has been better for me to just keep the thermostat temps set within a couple of degrees between floors. However, I do have one of those really really long duct runs down to the first floor since the equipment is in the attic. One weird thing they did was make it even LONGER by running it so far away and then back and THEN going downstairs… almost like they wanted to make it as long as possible, so that room gets hardly any air flow. They wouldn't adjust it (builder) because they said it is within 3-4 degrees of the other floors. They also don't use any dampers, so not a way to adjust anything…they said everything is already perfectly designed. Compared it to a neighbor's house with the same plan, but the equipment is arranged different in the attic so he doesn't have as long of a run. I upgraded to 2-stage after 10 years (including zoning panel). That does make a difference for a quieter system and don't need to bypass nearly as much air, if any. So that might be why 2-stage is recommended for zoning applications. The house is well insulated and electric bill isn't over $100 even in summer (16 SEER), so not worth spending too much on changes.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ayotochtli says:

    Vrv or vrf is a true zoning….xD

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Apollo says:

    Thanks for the great video! If you have to choose between installing two A/C and furnaces or one a/c and furnaces with a zoning system, what would you choose? I got sick of maintaining two systems and hoping to have a single A/C system in my newly built 2,600 [sq ft] home. The zoning system seems to have way less required maintenance compared to a second A/C and furnace unit. Maybe change motorized ceiling vents if the motor fails? I hate going into the attic so this is a big plus. Service area Barrhaven??

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars culper78 says:

    Great video! We’re building 2 story house about 3500 sq ft. We’ll have 2 hvac units one up and down. The hvac guy has recocommended zoning downstairs which would put master suite on own zone. After watching your video I’m leaning to not doing it. I do like the idea of being able to kinda customize temperatures in different rooms though. Do you have any thoughts on the smart vents for something like that?

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars nightmare in action says:

    Just get mini splits they can do it very efficiently Are you in Orleans ?

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars lapk78 says:

    Two story 2800 ft² in South Texas. Dual-zones (upstairs/downstairs). Replacing the 16-year-old, 4-ton, single-stage builder unit. There is a bypass installed.

    Is there a reason to not replace with a quality single-stage with a variable-speed furnace? Some say a two-stage is necessary, others say a single-stage with a variable-speed furnace is the way to go.

    Our current damper control board is only capable of communicating with a single-stage system, so getting a two-stage ac would require a new board that can talk to a two-stage unit… (maybe new dampers too, I'm not sure).
    Thanks!

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrRainyCity says:

    Great video! We have had a few HVAC companies out who say they can fix our underpowered vents at the end of the system with a damper zone. No one (out of 5) proposed another solution like modifying the ducts. We have an open floor plan so I’m not sure zoning is a good idea. Any recommendations?

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bob Renner says:

    I want to install a 2.5 ton unit in my cape cod home,1st floor is approximately 900 sq ft, 2nd floor is 450 sq ft but we are not concerned with running duct to the upstairs bathroom. The house has no duct work at all. So I am trying to divide up the 1200 cfm’s between 4 rooms. The 1 at floor is a open floor plan so the living room and dining room and kitchen is all one big area. I’m figuring approximately 800 crm’s to this area with 2 supply vents, and the other two supply vents (400cfms) to feed the upstairs bedrooms which are approximately 160 sq ft each . In your opinion does this sound correct ? No zoning, just the 4 supply’s and then 3 returns. Your input would be appreciated. Thank you

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matts on FIRE says:

    Hi. Great video! Very informational. We are building a 3-story house with an unfinished basement in the mid west. Is it smarter to have the builder put in a 2-zone HVAC or will it save us money if we do it after closing? I appreciate all your input. Keep up the good work on giving us honest and educational content!

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars pejpm says:

    Thanks for the info. Great video.

    We are buying a new construction 3500 sq ft home. The builder spec is for one system with two zones (basement and first floor as one zone, bedrooms and attic as second zone). The builder has asked if we want to install additional electronic dampers to split our two zones into three or even four zones so that we can control basement, first floor, bedrooms and attic all independently. Each damper is $2800. Does this sound like a good idea? I’m concerned that it seems like a lot of money and I don’t know how beneficial it’ll be.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alt V7 says:

    Thank you for your insight on this topic. We opted for single zone in our 2800 sq. ft. residence.
    We have a upstairs 400sq. ft. hotbox/coldbox "bonus room" problem scenario. Opted for the following: Add extra duct for a total of two duct coverage and add a right sized return. Bonus room currently only has one supply duct with no return. We evaluated an isolated ductless mini split for upstairs, but the cost couldn't justify it . The compromise currently is to add an extra duct and a "rightsized return" in that room to improve the BTU coverage. Thankfully it is not occupied regularly. Opted for a single 5 Ton Daikin Fit to replace our 22 year noisy old ducted 5 Ton Unitary R22 AC and Gas Furnace. The "gas and goes" each year with R22 are getting pricey. Opted for the Heat Pump solution (gas furnace out) due to whacka-doodle California Emission requirements for new furnace installs. Adding adjustable manual dampers in hope to tune that upstairs over time to get to something slightly better than before.

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