All right, so I'm gon na put a little wet rag, especially on the filter dryer. Now these this filter dryer has nice long stubs which make this pretty easy on the TXV. We need to protect it and in this case it's easier just to stick a wet rag in here to protect. You know to keep from heat, to keep the heat from conducting down the liquid line and into the expansion valve.

So that's a key protection point. We have currently nitrogen flowing at 2 to 5 SC, F H, that's cubic feet per hour, which is a tiny tiny amount, not as CFM we're also going to protect when we do finish up this suction line, we're going to take the wet rag and put it Here to protect the bulb - actually, I think it's already kind of on there, but we'll make sure that that's protected as well, so that we don't get the bulb overheated. But I am going to take a little bit of wet rag, not a wet rag but wet rag from refrigeration technologies. Just gon na pack.

It around there to make sure that we don't scorch the paint and that we don't conduct too much heat on the inside of that culture dryer. It is reusable now. One key thing is: whenever you're, using wet rag or really anything like this, is you do not want to get it on the joint that you're working on, because then that's going to make it difficult, but you want to protect whatever you're trying to protect right put It on there, nice and thick when the safety glasses, I'm using the solder well, 15 percent silver rod. There we go just a little bit of a feather start on the male side, start getting it darker red back off just a little bit: 15 % floaters like the butter.

When you get done, you can make a nice little shoulder on it, but the main thing is to draw it into the joint, so you want to get that entire joint to that same thing here, you won't always work away from anything. You're gon na burn start on the male side, so that way, you're conducting the heat into the joint, and then you work, the solder into the female side starts getting to one you just back it off a little bit, always inspect with an inspection. We're now here before I do this you're gon na protect just the face of the unit a little bit just to make sure that I don't get any damage here. I don't want to.

I want to make sure I don't get it on the joint itself. I'm mostly just using it to protect the paint, because I've got that I've already got the rag on the inside protecting the TXV. This is just me being a little over protective, but I don't like burning paint, especially since I'm not in is much practice with brace. You know just a little bit of that secondary feathers.

What you're, looking for all the way around pull it in one nice thing about wet rag, is that it is reusable use. The back of this put it back in just get it off the area and some little black flecks. You can take off later you'll notice that I don't go to cool everything immediately, just give it a chance to set up before I cool it and after that then you're, okay, to cool it, especially when it's near about that. You want to make sure you're protecting.

There's some value in getting a cool little sooner than later, there's a joint, but we also have that color change going into the cup. If anything, I might have forgotten a little bit more heat a little deeper when talking to text about brazing and soldering. There's a couple things that I'm constantly harping on. One of them is keeping the system clean, dry and tight flowing nitrogen while brazing, and also pulling a really good vacuum, but right, along with that, is keeping valves, compressors dryers from overheating, and that's both because you can damage the internal components, especially with things like service Valves, reversing valves, TXV, these electronic expansion valves those sorts of things, but also because, if you burn the paint compromise, the paint on something like a compressor or a line dryer that can lead to rust and corrosion, which is why we use wet rag heat blocking putty.

From refrigeration technologies, wet rag is great to use packing it around line dryers around the stubs on compressors and then also, if you're, working in tight areas with expansion valves, because sometimes sometimes you don't have a lot of area to work. So you use the heat blocking putty in places that it may be tough to get a rag or sometimes when you use a rag, there's a lot of evaporation that comes off and that can interfere with the brazing. This is reusable, so when you get done with it, you can just scrape it back into the canister. Sometimes there may be a little some little black flecks that you may have burned when you did the bracing and you can just kind of pick those out.

But then you just scrape it back in here and you can continue to reuse it if it dries out. A little bit you can just put a just a few drips of water in it and then that'll rejuvenate it. We use it all the time for a lot of different applications, and recently we were doing a change out and I stopped by a job and showed how to use it on a lawn dryer, hey big thanks to refrigeration technologies, they've been a longtime sponsor of the Podcast and everything we do at HP school. They really make great products there.

A US company here in California, the Pasteur ellos, are just great salt of the earth. People so give wet rag from refrigeration technologies, a try and, while you're at it try out some of their other great products, such as the pan and drain spray, Viper HD, cleaner and the Viper aerosol cans for cleaning coils of all types. Thanks for watching we'll catch. You on the next one.