Bryan shows installation and testing the Emerson White-Rodgers SureSwitch (49M11-843) Step by Step. The SureSwitch is a multi-voltage contactor that can replace a wide range of OEM contactors for 24v, 120v, 208v, and 240v applications.
Before installing the SureSwitch, disconnect the power. Then, confirm that the power is off by checking the voltage from leg to leg and from leg to ground. Once you’ve confirmed that there is no power, use the diagram on the SureSwitch to determine which contacts you will use. Cover the unused contact.
Remove the old contactor and begin mounting the SureSwitch, attempting to use existing holes. Wire in the contactor using the two uncapped contacts. With the contactor coil in place, connect your line and load power according to the sticker on the SureSwitch. Then, use a torque wrench set to the correct specifications to torque your wires according to their size and the sizing chart on the SureSwitch.
Once you have wired and torqued the connections, you may reinsert the disconnect and restore power to test the SureSwitch. Keep in mind that the SureSwitch is energized by line voltage in addition to the 24v power. The rapid flashing light indicates a start delay, and a solid light indicates that the SureSwitch is fully operating. Check the voltage to confirm that you have the appropriate line voltage. Then, check the compressor and condenser fan motor amperages.
Use the 5-second test mode by pressing and holding the “test” button for one second. Once you have confirmed that the SureSwitch is operational, apply the aftermarket sticker to a blank spot within the electrical panel.
To get an idea of the cycle count, press and hold the “count” button. Each flash count and color corresponds to 10,000, 1,000, or 10 cycles. Add up the corresponding flashes to get the number of cycles.
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes, and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/.
Before installing the SureSwitch, disconnect the power. Then, confirm that the power is off by checking the voltage from leg to leg and from leg to ground. Once you’ve confirmed that there is no power, use the diagram on the SureSwitch to determine which contacts you will use. Cover the unused contact.
Remove the old contactor and begin mounting the SureSwitch, attempting to use existing holes. Wire in the contactor using the two uncapped contacts. With the contactor coil in place, connect your line and load power according to the sticker on the SureSwitch. Then, use a torque wrench set to the correct specifications to torque your wires according to their size and the sizing chart on the SureSwitch.
Once you have wired and torqued the connections, you may reinsert the disconnect and restore power to test the SureSwitch. Keep in mind that the SureSwitch is energized by line voltage in addition to the 24v power. The rapid flashing light indicates a start delay, and a solid light indicates that the SureSwitch is fully operating. Check the voltage to confirm that you have the appropriate line voltage. Then, check the compressor and condenser fan motor amperages.
Use the 5-second test mode by pressing and holding the “test” button for one second. Once you have confirmed that the SureSwitch is operational, apply the aftermarket sticker to a blank spot within the electrical panel.
To get an idea of the cycle count, press and hold the “count” button. Each flash count and color corresponds to 10,000, 1,000, or 10 cycles. Add up the corresponding flashes to get the number of cycles.
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes, and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/.
who makes that torque tool you used
Thanks for the video. Which torque screwdriver are you using? Thanks
Jandy was here
Sir, it would be great if all of us who are dealing with air conditioning online all over the world can come together in some way. Service area Barrhaven??
I just had the original contactor out of my unit yesterday because I installed a Micro Air Easy Start. I was thinking about a Sure Switch too, but decided against it for now. The original contactor has about 120K cycles by my reckoning and still works well. I took a fine flat file to the contacts to freshen them up and blew the dust out, almost good as new. I didn't find any bugs in it, the solenoid and return spring work freely. I live up north where we have winter, and my unit is for cooling only. In the off season I put mothballs on, in and around the unit, then cover it up tight with a fitted canvas cover and a cheap plastic cover over the canvas one. I swear by mothballing during the off season to keep the bugs and mice out. We have Asian lady beetles that swarm in late fall looking for hiding places to dig in for winter, and I find them by the handful in my sheds. I never have bugs or mice in my AC unit, it's 24 years old and I have 48 degrees F in the air handler just above the coil on a typical summer day right now. If I lived down south where the unit never had an off season, I would put a 3/4" round hole in the electrical box and fit a removable plug in it. Then I would slip 2 or 3 mothballs into the hole once or twice a year. The mothballs sublimate into vapor, so all you have to do is feed new ones in as the old ones evaporate. Cheap pest prevention.
Did you direct connect the crankcase heater? or use a relay between the terminals on the sureswitch? I wonder as the schematic shows direct connect but comparing the manufacturer schematic it shows using a normally closed spst relay (goodman GSX14)?