Man, both of these guys are going off on high head pressure. Look at that head pressure! 346; it's not that hot outside it's 100 degrees, something's funky, so the condenser fan motors are running. Let's take a look right here. Both condenser fan motors are running and they're moving like they should be they're moving air.

It's always possible we're overcharged huh. I mean we're moving good air too. No, oh! That's! Probably why? Because we got this panel off. That's probably why we're tripping the head pressure.

We need to put this on and then reset it. This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. We have a bar room ac that is not working properly. We went down to the thermostat and the thermostat is calling.

Actually they have a couple. Ac's down, but we're going to start on this one, so the thermostat is calling um. We should have it running and it's not. The condenser is not hot.

So we're going to start with the electrical panel dig into that and see what we can figure out all right on this unit. It's a pretty basic uh sequence of operation. Okay, um you've got a schematic here. Their schematics can be a little confusing, but you can stare at it.

Essentially, you've got three phase 208 volts coming up through the disconnect switch once it comes up through that it sits at the contactors. You can actually see it right here, field power, there's three legs and a ground and it's going to sit at the contactor. But then it actually jumps off of the contactor down here. Sits at the indoor fan, contactor jumps off and it's actually going to go through the transformer right here.

Okay, the transformer is going to step the voltage down to 24 volts. It's going to run right through here on the red wire through a fuse. Then it's going to go to the r terminal on the thermostat board right over here, which is going to be this guy. Okay, this is our thermostat board.

This is going to send power down to the thermostat through these thermostat wires, which runs down to the building. The thermostat acts like a light switch, but it's temperature controlled. When someone turns the light switch on or the thermostat logic says: hey it's hot in here turn on the air conditioner. We get a call for cooling or a call for heating.

You know vice versa, but we get a call for cooling on y1. Then, what's going to happen, y1 in this situation is going to go right here and it's going to go through the economizer logic board, which is on the other side. The economizer logic board is going to say: hey, you know what it's nice and cool outside. We don't need to turn on the compressor.

Let's turn on free cooling and it opens up a set of dampers runs it through that. Then. If the economizer logic board says hey it's too hot outside, let's not do free cooling, it sends power back. It runs in through the pressure controls in the unit.

Okay, then it's gon na go. Actually, i think it's gon na go through the logic board. First then, it's gon na go to the pressure controls. After the pressure controls, low and high are okay.

Then it's going to send power back on our compressor, contactor and turn the compressor contactor on now. That's a quick rundown, there's a lot more to it, but that's the basic concept so, where we're going to start on this one is we're going to start with three phase high voltage, we're going to verify it's the correct voltage, then we're going to verify that the Transformer is working correctly. We can do that by checking from r to c. This is a low voltage terminal, so we check from r to c.

If we have 24 volts, we know the transformer is good. Then we can proceed troubleshooting from there. So our first step we're gon na go ahead and check power at the contactor which it's a shortcut because we're bypassing the disconnect switch okay. So we had 208 from one to two 208 from two to three and 208 from three to one okay, so we have three phase power coming into this unit.

Our next step is we're going to check voltage at the thermostat terminal board, r to c we're gon na see what we get right now, r to c we have 25 volts. Okay, our next step is going to see if the thermostat is calling so we're going to go from c to y one. What do we got? We got 25 volts on c to y1. Okay, that's interesting! Now i want you to jump from c to x and we're gon na test the compressor lockout board from c to x.

We have no voltage okay, so our thermostat is telling us to turn on all right, we're not on compressor lockout, which theoretically means that we don't have a tripped high pressure or a trip to low pressure. Okay, so left in our sequence of operation, is our economizer logic board power's coming up from the thermostat it's saying to turn on. We don't think we are on lockout, because we do not have voltage between x and c all right. It would be there if we had if the unit's wired correctly, it would be uh, it would be locked down and we would have voltage from x to c if we had a high pressure at low pressure.

That was tripped. So if everything's good, we don't our next step should be check the economizer logic board to see if there's a problem at that now, we've got some really dirty filters. Our economizer logic board is actually over here and it's really dirty. So we're going to make this easy and we're going to bend this out to where it's easier to see, so we can troubleshoot it a little bit easier, all right.

So the way we have it mounted it just takes four screws and you can access it. A little bit easier, so our economizer logic board has an active alarm on it right now and it says mixed air temperature sensor, error, m80 sense, error, okay and then, let's see if it has any other errors, alarms mixed air temperature and it's erased, but it just Comes right back so we have a bad mixed air temperature sensor. But let's see, if that's the only thing we have so we're going to go through the the steps here and we're going to go to status is the economizer available. It says yes, so, right now it says the eponymizer can work.

Is the system occupied? Yes is y1 calling from the thermostat it's on, so yes is y1 being sent out from the logic of this board. No, so it thinks that it's cool enough or something's going on that this is not. This seems to be our problem right now. Let's keep going through, it is y2.

Okay, no mixed air temperature has two bars, meaning it's not even reading mixed air temperature at all outdoor air temperature. It thinks it's 39 degrees. So that's a problem too. That's the minimum position of the damper okay.

So this guy right here looks like we got two bad sensors. Probably so we have uh. Let's see mixed air temperature and outdoor air sensors are right here. M-A-T-O-A-T and those are probably our problems.

So let's get our eyeballs on the sensors. If we open this guy up right here, we should be able to see the outdoor air sensor right here, and that seems suspect, because it should not be reading 39 degrees, um we'll get that guy pulled off and then we're gon na shut down the unit and Look at the mixed air temperature sensor too, so our mixed air temperature sensor goes right here, all right and our outdoor air temperature sensor they're both acting like they're, bad, okay, um. We come over here, they're, both right here we could have a problem in our economizer logic. We could have a problem with electrical.

I'm gon na go down to the van and see if i have any sensors. First, though okay, these are a very common failure. Point on these uh honeywell jade economizers things go bad all the time. So, let's see what we can find all right.

We have two failed sensors. We're gon na do a resistance value across them all right and we have 10k ohms on one 10k, ohms 11k ohms on the other, it's kind of going back and forth. They also have some really bad electrical connections too. The way they went in, we have two new sensors that i had in the van 15k ohms 15 cams.

Now the resistance is going to change with the temperature on these um. These are standard temperature sensors. You can do enthalpy, sensors too. I actually have two of the enthalpy sensors, but we're just running outdoor air temperature economizers, so it just looks at the dry bulb temperature.

That's it here in southern california. We can get away with that, because we don't really know what humidity is. We have high humidity right now, and i bet you it's 32 percent 35 percent, like that's high for us, so you know - and it's hot, so they're not going to open the economizers at this time. So these are going to work.

Just fine we're going to slap! These in see, if that's the only problem and then go from there. Okay, we changed the mixed air temperature sensor. What we typically do too, is we eliminate this connector because the new sensors they come with these guys and i like them a lot better. They tend to make a better connection in my opinion, but i mean the failure rate on these is still really high.

So we got this one changed out. This area is dirty in there um and then uh over. Here we got this one changed out and installed. So we're gon na put on the panels, turn the unit back on and see what the economizer says all right.

We come over to our logic, module and it's still powering up and we hit status economizer available. No, that's a good sign. Economizing no occupied! Yes! Y1! Is off because it's not calling yet we're waiting for a call. We want to see what the sensors say out.

Our mixed air temperature sensor says 105 degrees now and dropping outdoor air temperature sensor says 101 degrees, so we're reading accurate temperatures on those now. So, if all goes well, this logic should allow our system to turn on when the thermostat tells it to so we're currently waiting for the thermostat delay. But we can actually bypass the thermostat by jumping it out, because you never want to come up and initially bypass a thermostat. You always want to wait to see if the thermostat comes on on its own, but we came up and we knew we had a call for cooling, so that told us that the thermostat works.

So from that point forward i have no problem, jumping it out. So long as we've already verified that the actual thermostat works so we're gon na go ahead and jump this guy out real, quick and see if we can't get it running. So we ran a jumper from r to y1 and our unit just turned on and we are now cooling whether or not we're cooling properly. We don't know, but we know that the unit is cooling, um we're going to go ahead and put the economizer logic board back in and then we're going to uh further troubleshoot the unit see if it's working properly.

I do want to point out we're putting all the panels back on this. Guy is open partially, because i have it set up for about. I think it's uh, maybe 10 15 minimum outside air for fresh air requirements, so we're bringing fresh air in through every ac um. You have to keep that in mind too, when you're troubleshooting and looking at your unit tds um, because we're mixing outside air.

So we're probably gon na have a higher than normal td unless we close the outside air damper all right, um we're gon na put our temperature clamps on the system. We're gon na go and do a full measure, quick profile, um the pressure probes. Already on there. You can see, but we zeroed out the system, so we turned the pressure probes on made sure they said zero psi on here before um.

Now we're gon na put the temperature clamps in order to put the temperature clamps. They need a clean surface, so you got ta scuff it up with some scotch brite, some sandpaper um and then uh see right now we turn this one on, and this is our discharge line, okay about eight to ten inches away from the compressor and then we're Gon na go ahead and proceed with the suction line: temperature we're gon na get right about here on the suction line temperature and then liquid line temperature coming out of the dryer okay. So that way we can see potential restrictions so we'll sand it right there and then we'll do a full measure. Quick uh work up on here.

All right got all of our temperature clamps on we're gon na bend this guy in um yeah we're ready to go. We're gon na go ahead and profile, this guy measure, quick, real, quick and then uh put the panel back on and start it back up. We went through our profile, we went to system info and we changed all the information over so we're a package unit. 72.

000 btus it's a 6 ton, r22 400 cfm's per ton, 10 to 12 seer. It is a fixed, orifice metering device. So we did a piston and uh, that's it. So our unit is now running.

We hit continue and we can just kind of watch it from in here, while it's operating to see how well it's doing and what's going on so we're gon na, let it give it a few minutes to stabilize out and then we'll come back all right. This guy is looking pretty darn good okay. So let's go back over here all right, um suction line temperature is a little bit high. The unit's still stabilizing out it's going to take a few minutes, superheat's still a little bit high sub coin's about where i'd expect.

It to be, let's go on over here outdoor air temperatures about 95 degrees approach; temperatures slowly dropping it's still kind of stabilizing out, because the unit's still struggling a little bit all right. Temperature splits about 23 degrees, airflow's, pretty good, so we're running a little bit high on the head pressure, not horrendous, but here's the thing we're having to get we're having to dance between um um the right place to get our temperature for our outdoor air temperature. Okay. So if you look right here, i just rotated it around we're a little bit above target, but i'm getting this so half the condenser is in the sun, half of it's out of the sun, so move it out here, you're going to get a little more accurate, But it's more in the sun, it's going to hit! You know in the 90s over there, so you're kind of getting a mixture between the two on this unit.

Right now, i'm not scared of anything the superheat's a little bit high, but the unit's still stabilizing out. I'm pretty happy with everything we're gon na leave this unit alone. I'm not gon na put any refrigerant in it. I'm gon na call it good with the temperature sensors um and then we're gon na go ahead and jump on to the next air conditioner that they have because they have a couple down.

So we're going to jump on the next one and see what's going on with that one and uh yeah. This is our other ac. That's not working, and this one concerns me. Okay, because if we open up right here, we've got what looks to be like oil.

All coming out, the bottom okay, i'm over here looks like oil looks like oil, so i'm a little concerned about this guy with the potential oil that i see, but we're going to open it up and see what we can figure out yeah. This is not good. So we open this guy up. We just turned off power and uh.

What do we got going on in here looks like we might have blown a compressor terminal, possibly out of this guy possibility. I don't know, i don't see it right now. It doesn't look like it vented, but there is oil everywhere in here. So something ain't right and it looks like it came out from here.

So i'm pretty sure this guy's gon na be without refrigerant, so we're gon na check it right now, and that was black too everything's black. On this thing, no wow, okay, that's burnt, though yeah that is burnt refrigerant for sure. But how come it's not grounded the compressor? Oh man, yeah. That's, that's not good! It's interesting because it's it's like slightly burnt.

I don't know it's not a complete burnt smell, but i don't know we're just looking and we haven't got leak, detectors out and stuff, but i mean there's oil in there, but it doesn't seem to be all there. But look at that. Look at how black. That is but yeah the smell coming out of it's horrendous um, but there's refrigerant in it i mean there's oil, you can see my fingers got oil all over them from it.

Yeah all right! Well, we're gon na put a gauge on there and kind of get an idea what the standing pressures are and then uh. We got to figure out what happened here. We have got uh standing pressure at 21. Psi, that's, definitely low.

We know we have something going on, but i'm intrigued, because if you look at the top of the compressor, you see how burnt the sticker is the stickers. I just kind of feel like this thing might have been running with low on gas for a very long time and like the oil's cooked, because it's not burnt like the smell, but it smells almost like motor oil in a weird way. It's it's interesting. So we need to find where this refrigerant leak is because it still has gas in it.

So as pressure, so we should be able to find it so we're gon na go, get the leak detector and see if we can pinpoint this a little bit better. We're picking it up like crazy right on the back side of the compressor right back there somewhere, so we're gon na have to get our heads back there or something something's going on. This is kind of a cool one. So right on the back of the compressor, the soft plug blew out, see if i can zoom in on that, it's kind of hard to see, but right there, it's a soft plug, and it's one of these right here.

This is a soft plug right here too, and the soft plug is leaking refrigerant. It's actually a common issue on these older ones, um, it's a carlisle compressor. So that was a thing that happened on those which is good, because i want to change the compressor based off of the smell of the oil alone right and the fact that it's leaking on the compressor cool problem solved. So we're going to need a new compressor on this guy.

It's so out of refrigerant, there's nothing! We can do so we're going to write this one up as a bad compressor and then because of the the the nastiness of that oil, we will be installing if we can maybe a suction line, filter dryer right here. Possibly, i don't know it's kind of tight, but maybe maybe we can get it there. It just depends we might have to cut like if we, if we cut this guy right here and then shorten it, just a little bit then push it in it'll. Push this whole line in and we'll have room for a 30 cubic inch copeland.

I mean uh spoiling such suction line. Filter dryer right there, so uh yeah, that's the plan. So for now we're gon na go ahead and uh isolate power on this one. Just get the indoor fan running, but we are gon na shut the outdoor air damper, because this one does pull minimum outside air.

But we don't want that happening right now, because it's not cooling, so we don't need it adding extra heat to the building. So we are going to shut this outdoor air damper all right this one right here. We just went ahead. This one was running so we when we first got here.

We had two acs that weren't running that one and this one, so we jumped right on those. Okay, everything else was running, but this one doesn't have a good td um and we opened it up just a little bit and only the first stage is running. So we're going to test to see if second stage is being called for at the terminal board right there, so we're going to test across c and y2 to see if we get voltage. So we have a call for y2, but it's not turning on.

Why is the question so we need to look into that test between x and c and it's off on lockout of some sort, because we have voltage at x and c. So we need to figure out why it's off on lockout and what's happening here. So with that being said, we're going to have to apply service gauges to this guy. We quickly just depress the schrader with this guy and it has pressure.

So the first thing i wanted to check was make sure that we didn't have a broken belt or something - and we don't belt's, nice and good, so we're gon na put this back on, go ahead and gauge up and then test the entire system. Weird it turned on, and then it went off on high head pressure for the first stage there it goes. Second stage is on now: okay go ahead and close that panel up all right, so the second stage is running, but the head pressure went too high, too quick. So i wonder if it's just because we had the panel off or what first stage had pressures through the roof too.

So that's weird almost like we have an overcharge or something it's kind of funky man. Both of these guys are going off on high head pressure. Look at that head pressure; 346.; it's not that hot outside it's 100 degrees, something's funky, so the condenser fan motors are running. Let's take a look right here.

Both condenser fan motors are running and they're moving like they should be they're moving air. It's always possible! We're overcharged huh, i mean we're moving good air too. Oh, that's! Probably why? Because we got this panel off. That's probably why we're tripping the head pressure.

We need to put this on and then reset it all right. That's much better! I mean we're still going really high, though dang. No, that's not why what the heck is going on here, shutting off on high head pressure, it's always possible that we need to get the building air dropping a little bit yeah we're satisfied. I mean we're shut off on head pressure right now.

It's very interesting. It doesn't even run for a minute, but it's both stages. All right. I closed the outside air damper um.

This guy is acting really funky right now, almost like it's overcharged. This is the first stage, the second stage it shut off. It keeps shutting off um. This is the first stage and we're running with zero degrees.

Super heat, a sub coin, is ridiculously high. It's acting like the first stage is low. I mean uh overcharged, but we're going to attempt to clean this condenser first. It doesn't look too bad, but it is a double road condenser and i want to make sure it's not plugged on the inside but um this thing's acting funky.

So we're going to give this guy a good cleaning, really quick and then evaluate it further after that, so just giving it a rinse from the outside. It there's quite a bit of stuff coming out from the inside, but we need to pop the top on this. Guy and look at that inside condenser and see how it's doing um and that'll give us a better idea where the problem might be. So we just carefully wedged up the top and uh look at the inside.

Of that thing, it's dirty so we're gon na get in there pull the whole thing. We're gon na pull the whole top off and clean it properly talk about needing to split a condenser. Look at that. That thing is dirty man, all right, we're gon na get this guy cleaned up proper, some coil porn, oh yeah! That's why it's so important to split your condensers, guys chunky.

We got a little bit of the brightener cleaner on here and we're going to town. So this stuff is uh coming out, really really nasty. It's crazy! What's coming out of here, all right got this guy cleaned up. I washed all the stuff down the drain that way it doesn't get sucked back up into the acs.

We uh we're ready to put the top back on right now, so we're gon na slide it over. When it comes to this stuff man i mean you can do it with one person, but you really got ta struggle. It's best to have two people, so um yeah we'll go and rinse the other ones off too, but we're going to slap that top back on all right. We got the unit.

All assembled went ahead and rinsed off every other ac, since i had the hose up here: cleaned all the outside air filters, so um we're waiting for this guy to start up which it should start up any minute and we'll see if everything's, better. All right. I had to switch to my phone because my tablet died, so this is after cleaning we're still running high head pressure and look at that sub cooling. Look at that circuit, one sub, coil man that's way too high um super heat is eh.

You know right there. They want to see a little bit lower. Let's go over to circuit two, give it a second to catch up circuit two is also running high head pressure, and the sub coin is also a little bit high. So i'm not in love with that kind of looking like maybe a restriction, it's about 96 degrees outside right.

Now, let's see that approach temp on circuit, one yeah, we're really low approach on both i'd really like to get in here and recover the charge and start over and then weigh it back in. But let's look at the rest of it right now. So um we got a 22 degree temperature split, we're delivering about 112 000 btus okay. Well, this is about as good as it's gon na get right.

Now, um, it's getting late on a friday! It's about five o'clock, we're not going to spend much more time here. I would love to come in here and go and recover the charge and start with that. Maybe even try to clear the metering device, but we're gon na have to talk to the customer about that, but they have an air conditioner now, so all together um we had that ac down bad uh, outdoor air and mixed air temperature sensor. This one right here has got a bad compressor.

It's leaking out the soft plugs that one's done. This one right here had a plugged up condenser coil. We cleaned that it's working now. This one has been good since we got here that one's been good.

Since we got here, kitchen ac is good, since we got here, i was here the other day on the office ac. It's got a plugged up metering device which i've condemned already so office. Ac is down. This ac is down everything else.

I rinsed clean the outside air filters, so at least they have some cooling they're not going to love the fact that they got two ac's down because they're going into father's day weekend but hey. I can only do so much so we're gon na clean up our messes and wrap this one up for now, and you know try to talk him into letting me come out here and uh recover the charge. Try to clear the metering devices maybe put some new dryers on it and see where that gets us on this guy. It seems like i'm always getting these service calls, and i kind of am because i take the more difficult service calls majority of the time.

You know um, i typically have someone working with me so i'll take the calls where i think there's going to need to be cleaning and different things like that, so we do get normal service calls too. I have other service technicians that are handling reaching cooler calls, and you know ac calls that i don't suspect are going to be disasters, but i can kind of gauge by the restaurant. You know like hey. This is going to be a you know, just a real nightmare, so you know i'll go out and take those calls or take someone with me and try to knock them out.

Okay, so um, you know when it comes to these calls like triaging things. Okay, so you walk up and they say you know my entire dining room is 90 degrees. You know so you just got to kind of like you can't get overwhelmed. You just have to just walk up there and start with one ac.

So what i usually do in this situation here was, i just went up onto the roof and i walked around seeing which units were running. Okay, condenser fan motors compressors. So then i put those ones on the back burner and i looked for you know what acs were not running at all and i start with those and then i'll prioritize like you know they had a bar ac and they had a back room. The back room was empty.

There was nobody in it, so i jumped on the bar. You see. First, you know went through that. One had bad temperature sensors for the economizer, so the economizer basically thought that it was cold enough outside that it was going to do free cooling instead of turning on the compressor.

The whole purpose of the economizer in these units is to save energy and or meet fresh air requirements or demand control ventilation. You know, as customers start coming in the building the co2 levels start climbing. The economizers will open up to bring in fresh air to kind of alleviate some of the co2. So you don't get like the sleepy building sleepy building syndrome or whatever happens sometimes in office spaces, where you have a lot of people and they're breathing co2 out, and then people start to get sleepy lethargic.

They don't work as efficiently anyways we're going off on a tangent on economizers, but in this situation the economizer thought that it was cold enough outside to turn off the compressor and just bring in outside air. Well, the outside air was over 100 degrees, okay, so the outdoor air damper opened up a hundred percent and it was just sucking in all that hundred degree, air filling up the building, and that was part of the reason why uh, the entire dining room was at 90 degrees, even though they have separate air conditioners, it's all one common room, and so you know it starts. Temperatures start bleeding over into the other rooms and it just becomes an issue. So we went ahead and diagnosed the bad temperature sensors for the economizer.

I replaced them and the unit was back up and running. Okay, then i jumped on the next unit that wasn't working at all found that that one had oil. So i was really concerned thinking. I had a grounded compressor or something, and the oil smelt really bad too.

Okay, my theory is, is that that unit's been leaking for a long time and it ran with really high discharge temperature as it was leaking, it started leaking out the oil charge. So the leftover oil started to really get damaged, started breaking down because of the high heat. That's my assumption, because when i pushed the schrader up on the top - and i told you guys that there was oil coming out that oil was clear and it didn't look burnt at all. So i don't think that you know there was a direct short and it contaminated the oil and it's all over the system.

No, i just think that that compressor was running really hard and eventually the system ran out of enough gas that the low pressure control shut. It off so that was our situation on that one i'll be talking to them about a potential compressor replacement on there. I really really wish these customers would start replacing some of this equipment, especially with the price hike. It is now uh june 19th of 2021 and uh r22 refrigerant, which i've been using up until now, skyrocketed like crazy, expensive and uh.

It's kind of a bummer, because these customers, of course, are just coming out of this coveted crap. You know they're struggling to survive. They're just allowed to open up they just lifted the mask requirements in southern california, and people are starting to flock back into the restaurants and man are these guys getting hit with a brick wall? You know, because i can't even fix their unit now. Yes, i can come in with an alternative refrigerant, but there's a lot of things you have to do to make the alternative refrigerants work, and we might have to do that, but i really wish that the customer would just replace this put in a new unit.

It'll come with 410a or i don't know, maybe it'll come with something new. I don't know if they're changing over already, because they're they're phasing out 410a too, but anyways, that's a whole nother thing. So you know we'll see we'll we'll give the customer all the facts and all the information um and see where they want to go with that one. Now, the last unit that one was interesting because um you know it was acting like it was overcharged.

But before i started going crazy, even though the condenser looked sparkly clean right, it was. It was perfect. Looking when i split the condenser, it was completely plugged on that second row: condenser, okay and uh. You know now the first row wasn't dirty right.

The second row was so logic tells you that one of those is the first stage, one of those the second stage, but the air still has to pass through both of them right to for that system to work right. So when that second row was plugged up, it was causing the high head pressure on the first one too. Now i think, there's still a slight restriction in the system, maybe overcharge. I don't know i'd like to go in there and just kind of start from scratch.

Recover the refrigerant weigh it back in and see where we're at and see if that solves our head pressure problems, but it's so important to understand, split row, condensers guys, really anything four ton and up whether it be residential or commercial if it has a tube and Fin that's copper tubes with aluminum fin condenser on it. There's very good odds that it's going to be a split row: condenser! Okay, you hear what i said, though residential 2, for you residential guys. There is split row condensers on the residentials too, and washing it from the outside, or just washing it from the inside is not gon na cut it. You have to pull the top on those things to be able to access the split row condenser you can wash it you can wash it, but that that crap isn't necessarily going to make it through both coils okay.

So you always got to investigate that stuff. So we pulled it apart, condenser was plugged solid, we gave it a thorough cleaning and the system started back up and was operational. It's not perfect, but we got the customer going of course, they're panicky. They were freaking out because we got father's day weekend.

You know this is this: is the first big holiday since they started opening things back up for us, and these guys just want to make some money and keep the customers happy and they've still got. Two acs down. Manager was a little bit upset with me because he's like you know, one of the acs that's down is for their restroom and you know the customers are having to go in the restroom and it's 100 degrees in there. And you know it's just really hot and it's like i you know he's like.

Can you fix that? Is there anything you can do and it's like dude there's nothing. I can do it's it's. You know can't help you right now. You know we got to get these acs fixed, but we got to do it right.

You know, so they were a little bit bummed about that. But you know i'm only you know i can only do what i can do. You know i'm not really gon na. Do a whole lot of work like that over the weekend, i'm not gon na waste my entire weekend to go over there and try to fix something that you know try to clear a metering device um the restroom is fed by one of their kitchen acs that I didn't work on in this video, but it has a completely restricted, fixed, orifice metering device on it and it's going off on crazy, high head pressure.

So um. That's why i was like dude there's nothing. I can do man, you know we're not going to deal with this over the weekend. It is what it is.

You know it's a bummer, but anyways. I really really appreciate you guys making it to the end. So, at the end of these videos um, i usually tell you guys about my live streams. Okay, i have not been able to make a live stream.

I think i've missed like three weeks because work has just been so busy. So tentatively, i do live streams on monday evenings at 5, 00 pm pacific work permitting as we're going through this crazy heat wave um right now in southern california, it's been a little difficult, so we'll see: okay uh! This video is going to come out on sunday june 20th. Possibly we'll do a live stream on monday june 21st, but it really just depends on how work and you know everything pans out. Okay, if you guys haven't already please check out my website hvacrvideos.com, you can get uh shirts.

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Okay.