All right, so today's going to be fun because i'm just going to give you stuff. Yes, how do you feel about this? I'm so excited i'm looking forward to it. Are you so excited, and you just can't hide it? The summer's over the summer is over. I i know, except it's going to be 90 degrees, but still that's it in our hearts and we can remember what it was like that long time ago when it was summer - and i still was so harsh now - it's just joy for six months.

Six months of joy actually huh two months, normally it's just like january. That's slow, yeah! Well, that's good! It's a good problem to have, as they say, yeah. Thank you. Thank you all for uh for bearing through the summer every year it gets to the end of summer, and everybody wants to quit and everybody gets angry about certain small things start becoming big and uh.

We get frustrated and hot and aaron had a really fun. Uh cassette the other day, you know so it's great yeah, it looked gorgeous, it looked, it looked gorgeous, but it ended well. All's well that ends well, so yeah congrats for making it through the summer. That's what this is about and uh.

I i said it a couple days over a couple weeks ago, but um but yeah thanks again for doing what you do for hanging in there um. I know what it's like, but that doesn't change the fact that i don't do it anymore, to the same extent that you do. I still feel very thankful grateful for the amount of hard work that it is because it is a very difficult job. It is a challenging job.

All of you have experienced it to a different extent. Obviously we all have to some degree families and personal lives that we would like to spend time with and that always in the summer at least gets to be a little bit more. We get to be away from them a little bit more than we want to. We don't get to do all the things that we would probably rather do, but and it's a big but as my uncle keith would always say, we get a nice winter.

That is not nearly so stressful as we start to get into the winter one of them or into the slower season. I should say one of the really big things that i want us to work on is to set up the little things in our organizational processes, because when you become more organized, when you think, through the details of your job, then your work gets a little easier And easier from the standpoint of you know: it's not our work is never easy, but a little less chaotic, a little less uh rushing around. I think of travis's uncle martin, when i think of somebody who does not rush around but still gets the job done. By being uh organized and detailed - and i remember working with him on a few different occasions - keith, who taught me how to be organized to the extent that i am, which is still not, that great was always when i worked with him when i was a young Teen he would always have his van set up in such a way so that when he was pulling stuff off, it would go back in in the opposite way.

When you came back to to load up and unload and all that sort of thing and it made it work a lot easier versus doing the whole chaotic toss, everything in and that sort of thing. That was all i had to say about that. But i wanted to talk through some uh tools that wow, that was, that was impressive: some tools and materials that uh i'm gon na give you today that, hopefully, will make a few things easier. Maybe some things more difficult, but you can.

You can tell me, as we go first one we're going to start with here, which i've already handed out and i'm only going to hand this out to people who do not have one who does not have a deburring tool, otherwise known as a reamer. Anybody does not have a deburring tool, only ryan yeah, so you can store extra blades in the handle on these and having extra nice. Sharp blades is really handy because these do not work nearly as well when they're not really sharp some people like the ones that you know kind of go in like a cone. I i never really got into those, and also they they're a little more chaotic and where the shavings go.

Whereas with this you can kind of, you can almost get it all off in one burr. If you get good with it, which is nice, because the larger the burr the easier it is to make sure that it comes out versus going in i've, said this a bunch of times, but when you're working with any sort of a deburring tool or a reaming Tool, it's most important that you do not get shavings in the pipe. So don't do it like this. Do it like this and then tap it i've seen a couple of you blow on it.

You really don't want to be blowing um on refrigerant tubing. So i mean, i know, that's a natural response, but that you don't you know your mouth has no water vapor in it. So yeah yeah, you might give the air conditioner you might get the rona. Don't give your ac the rumor i've seen some of you use it where you just kind of go like that at the end, when you're just kind of cleaning it up a little bit that last little bit, you can do kind of quick, but you kind of Want to get it in there and then work it around nice and smooth the goal again when you're, reaming or deburring, and it's most important when you're making flares that's the most critical time is to make the edge.

Even you don't want to thin it out. If you go too much and you start to taper the edge, does that make sense? Do it too much you taper the edge now that edge, thins out and you'll start to get little cracks along the outside. So when you see a flare where there's cracks around the outside, very possibly it was over reamed, overly bird, and if you see one where there's still a little lip of metal, that's kind of pushed in on the edge, then that's one that likely wasn't the bird Or wasn't deburred enough cool, so ryan gets his, but the rest of you can feel free all right. Well, you can grab on at the end we're gon na do the flat top here there you go.

So that's that's those um! The next thing that i want to hand out is a really simple one, but i think this is a pretty cool tool. Eric melly showed me one that was very similar to this. For the stuff we do at least a quarter inch drive ratchet is going to be the size that you use probably most often we're not generally having really big bolts that we have to break and having this nice little guy here um is handy, but then on The other side, you can actually use it with a straight allen, key or with just your regular bits and so having this in your bag, where you can put it on your magnetic and then you can get into a really tight spot. I mean, i know some of you have the nice little angled, flexible dealios and all that um and those are nice.

But this is going to get into really tight spots. You could put a regular small, you know small bit and get into some place really really small and the nice thing with magnetic bits is if you're working on um, you know like, for example, getting the screw out of the back of some drain pans. If you want to try to pull an evaporator coil without pulling the whole coil out, i mean pull the drain pan without pulling the old coil out. Something like this is really handy or, if you're working on small refrigeration.

Anything like that. I'm going to hand these out, anybody not have the quarter inch. 5. 16 malco bits anybody not have those okay.

Well, we need to need to hand out a bunch of those who wants these. Who wants these? Now, when i hand things out like this, the intent is not for you to lose that one and then wait for me to give you another one. That's not that's, not the intent. This is the reason why you get a tool fund, so once you lose that one, then you can be like that was really nice.

I'm gon na go buy another one myself with my tool fund money. That's the idea. So so the intent is to see you with some tools that are better tools, get used to better processes and then you'd be like oh yeah. Now i want to do this myself.

I want to have the right things to do the job now, for those of you, i didn't bring any of these, but especially for these little things like the little wrenches, the malco bits or whatever a magnetic dish. Have you all seen the magnetic dishes that you stick on your bulkhead? You can take a lot of those common bits that you use, even even you can have one with screws or whatever, but having those just mounted. There are super nice because, if you're going to go do some weird job, you just yank that thing off and they're all just sitting right there pick out what you need. I found that to be really handy because these things get lost in your bags.

That's the problem, taking them, throwing them in a bag. Is they just now? You can't find them and it's kind of pointless bags become like bottomless pits for small little doodads and things. So if you are going to use a bag, maybe use one of your. Your flat pockets on the side or a zipper pocket and keep things in there.

You know just some just some suggestions but organizing the tools you use. Uh is a really big. Is a really big deal. Hey josh, come on in there's a chair behind ryan there.

Looking a little sleepy this morning, we respect that next thing, these little, oh, yes, okay, grant doesn't have one and he doesn't want one. Why is that grant all my numbers have like five of them? Okay, all right, fair enough. So this is a. This is a lighted mirror, so you pull the little plastic tab out here.

It is handy to have now you can use your cell phone they're, not that great sometimes - and these are the best now they do break a lot. So this is another example of a tool that i'm going to give you, but you know they sell these at like harbor freights, you know home depot lowe's very, very common places, so these are going to be more for installers and install helpers, who don't have one? Okay, all right. Okay, all right inspection mirror. I would suggest, and again like there are two primary uses for inspection mirrors that we use all the time.

One is looking at evaporator clothes, your service tech. You need to be looking at evaporative, coils um again, if you're working on a gas furnace that gets a little more tricky. That's where you have to go up through the the limit - and you know in our market because we've got 80, so you can sometimes do that, but a lot more tricky. But on fan coils we can look at the underside of that coil and see if it's dirty and that's a really big normal inspection point that we want to do on every service call every service call cool.

Do you agree with that? Sam agree with that jesse speaking here great next thing, i've only got three of these. These are the zebra short finder tool, and i like these for a couple reasons. The one reason is is that these actually um add some resistance into the circuit. They prevent the circuit from from damaging components when you're trying to find a short, not only that it's got a three amp fuse.

Actually i say it adds resistance. There is one that does that. I'm not sure if this is the one there's a couple. Different versions of this, but the main thing i like about this one is: it: has a three amp resettable fuse some of those other brands that, with the five amp popper type fuses, um we've seen them burn up transformers before they trip.

So this one we found to be a little bit more sensitive and again we want something: that's going to trip well before anything's going to get damaged. This is for active service technicians who are going to use it to help find short circuits. This also has alligator clips on it as well as spades, so you can plug it straight into the fuse holder or you can use the alligator clips, which is nice. Can i add on to that brain? Yes, um.

There is another tool just like that. It's called the short pro tool: it's a 2.5 auto resetting. It has an indicator light okay. So when you plug it into the fuse bank, if there's an active short it illuminates and it stays illuminated, so you can just go wire by wire, and maybe i was thinking that that's what this is and maybe this isn't.

I think this one has an indicator. Light on it too, i should probably be a little bit more prepared all right. So, what's the other one called uh, it's called a short pro tool. Short pro, okay cause.

Maybe that's the one i was thinking. This was yeah, it's a 2.5 and the only thing the only issue i've had with it is when there's a shorten the call. So it's not actively shorting until the contactor tries to pull in okay, um it'll, it'll flash and then go blank and it'll actually run the system. It's it's.

I don't know how it does it, but it will so that's the only part of it that gets real tricky because if it, if you call for cool or you call for heat and it shorts, if you're not standing right there, you necessarily won't catch it. Okay, interesting: we need to get one of those and try it all right, any other service technicians who maybe sometimes struggle finding low voltage shorts. Anyone no everybody's good, nobody wants this. All right max will take it all right.

The next thing we've got is another tool. I got some of these because you can get them significantly less expensive online than you can at a supply house or at a home depot or lowe's. This is a nice big, unibit, okay, what color is it? What color is this university online so again for people who use unibits all the time, the cheaper unibits they don't last, very long, but for a service technician or somebody who's, not using them constantly you're not going to use it that much. So what did you think of my uh? You know i liked it.

Was it a half inch? It was. I thought it was bigger than that. It's five eighths yeah, so jesse used it was like it was like almost was that an electrical hole saw specifically or was it yeah yeah i mean you know and when you're making bigger knockouts in electrical panels, you use a knockout kit. I don't know if you've ever used a knockout kit, which that's really the right way to do larger, larger holes.

But again we don't normally do that. We're usually making a half inch or uh three quarter inch. Holes probably - and i didn't like your that was that was nice all right, so who could use it? Who could use an extra unibit anybody? Anybody? No, no all right here we go all right, so i'm gon na let bert uh give his take on these two quarter pressers. So this is the cmd.

This is a blue vac, active tools, cord presser, one thing: that's different about the blue pack is that it's actually back seating so that when it's uh all the way, actually i'm gon na do what i just told you not to do yeah. So it is back seating, so when you have it completely backed out, there's no flow through it at all. It actually seals closed, whereas this one is not back seating, so you can back it all the way out, and it just opens. So all this one's basically doing is just depressing the core.

That's it where this one actually seals off when it goes up, but the downside to this that some people have mentioned is that it will depress some cores just on the process of going on, and so, if you really want to have active control of flow, that's Not great because if you put it on it'll just start it'll just start spraying potentially um, but if you have back seated, then you know jim's argument is well the seal engages before it depresses the core anyway. So why does it matter? But i've seen it not? Do that i had a conversation, makes it harder to put on the pressure, yeah, yeah so bert said the pressure binds it because if so, if it is um, if it is starting to depress, then there's pressure coming out, and that makes it a little trickier. So i think if you don't over, tighten it and if the core is all the way in then uh then you probably probably won't always happen, but that is a challenge with this one, whereas this one you can you know you can drive it further out. So it's not depressing, but we'll also look at jessica's version of the cnd as well.

Actually, it's a really tiny one: isn't it yeah? Okay, i've seen that one before the only thing i like better about those ones, it's got the bigger thumb screw at the end. Right and the other cmd one is really small, yeah yeah. I have seen that one. It's a really really tiny thumb screw yeah.

Sometimes it doesn't light future and then the other concern that i have is how well does it hold if you're using it for vacuum, to depress a uh like a cormax core? I don't know how well it holds. I think that was the question that there was at some point the the blue, the accutools one is really designed specifically for depressing cormax cores for maximum vacuum speed. That was the reason. The reason why they started telling it, but again we we find it most useful when you're putting it on the liquid side to prevent refrigerant squirting out and for that purpose this doesn't always work the best.

But anyway, who wants the c and d and who wants to try the blue back anyway? All right, bert's gon na try the cnd. Anybody need anybody, need this other one. I didn't put my mouth on this one. That was a bigger one.

Next thing, i'm kind of excited about these: these are for people who do maintenance or service calls. What all right! Well, maybe we could learn a lot from jessica? Okay, that's that's good, all right! So what i like about this one! So it's! I don't like that! That it it's curved like this, but what i do like about the the fact that it's curved is, you can easily put it in your uh maintenance all right. Well, maybe we could learn a lot from jessica. Okay, that's that's good all right! So what i like about this one, so it's i don't like that it that it it's curved like this, but what i do like about the the fact that it's curved is, you can easily put it in your maintenance bag or bucket.

The other thing i like about this is that it has a little like rubber thing on the tip, so it's rounded here you see what i'm saying and again what this is for is for the channels along the side of a drain pan get in underneath the Pan itself, or underneath the coil itself, i want you to try them and again. The main thing i'm wanting here is not to say that this is the bee's knees, but i want you to have some method of getting underneath that coil to clear out the channels underneath the coil and the drain pan, especially if you can see that there's a Little rust or whatever down in there what's one of these pick one all right, anybody who i haven't already told i've already told you don't say it, but but do you know what this is max knows? What is it max? It's uh to mount to a compressor. So you can cool it down. The name of this is a cool presser, so you hook your hose up here.

You put it on top of the compressor and then, if you have an overheated compressor, you can cool it down and when i first saw it i thought yeah. You know that's not, but it's a really simple tool and again because it's because it's magnetic just stick it to your bulkhead by your hose, but it has another thing you can do with it, which is handy, which is, if you have a tank, a recovery tank. That's getting hot, you can stick it on there as well. Now i mean a lot of you're gon na use a bucket of water for that, but um.

This is another another potential use for it, especially in residential. Where a hose is right. There you can just stick that on your recovery: tank cool it down now, if you, when you have your tank on your scale, which you do have your tank on your scale, just make sure that your scale is okay with getting wet, which most of them are. But if you have, you know just look at your particular scale and make sure that it's going to be okay, getting away i'll.

Just let you come up and grab these at the end. Next thing is these, and i think some of you already have these. This is called the diy back dv4. I think it's what it's called yeah wi-fi dv4.

I mean these are so simple, but uh they're handy, you know handy to have in your little kit. Yeah these things are way too expensive for what they are. Have you ever priced these out, i'm not going to tell you what they are. Okay, all right! Next thing, i've never pushed these in the past, but i think now is the time anybody know what these are uh yeah.

This is the super basic one. So all it is, it's a quarter inch female quarter, inch male and it's got a little restrictor in it, and what this is for is when you're charging a unit really only when it's running, if it's not running and you're doing a standing charge where you're putting Liquid in you put that in mostly the liquid line, actually quick note here, when you have a system, that's got no refrigerant and you're charging the entire thing, so you know compressor condenser, nothing has any refrigerant in it. You pull a vacuum on it and you're ready to put charge in it. What's the right way to charge that everybody hear that on the liquid side on the high side of the system, the reason being that when you put liquid in the high side, you're putting it into the condenser and liquid line, which is designed to have liquid now, When the system goes on, all of that refrigerant has to travel through the metering device and evaporator before it can come back to the compressor.

What happens if you do the thing that a lot of us were taught, which is that you take and you open up both the liquid and suction side? And you hopefully are weighing it in get a flooded start you're going to get a flooded start, which means that you're putting a bunch of liquid refrigerant in the suction side, and when that thing kicks on it's going to suck that liquid right into the compressor. If you have a really long time between when you're charging it and when you're starting it like you're, just putting a holding charge on it, then probably not as big of a concern. We did it the other day in class on a lab unit because we're in a hurry, but you don't want to take liquid refrigerant, put it in the suction side, even with system being off, and then kick it right on. That's a recipe for disaster.

In the same way that you don't want to take liquid refrigerant and dump it straight in the suction line, in any significant quantity, because you are going to have a running flooded while running while flooded flooded while running whatever. What's the other word for that, all of a sudden, my brain went blank. It's not floating, it's slugging that isn't so flooded is just when you get any liquid in the crankcase. Slugging is when you literally get liquid refrigerant into the compression chamber or head of the compressor, which is exceptionally rare on a refrigerant cooled compressor, but that's the real bad one.

That's when you have like almost instantaneous failure on so the purpose of this is not when you are putting a holding charge in your liquid line. The point of this is when you are charging with liquid, while the system is running, which is the bulk of the charging that we do charged with liquid into the suction line. And why do we charge with liquid with most modern refrigerants into the suction line, because you're not going to exceed the pressure in the system? You get it to go in the liquid? Well, i'm talking so when you're running when the system is running. The reason why we're turning the tank upside down and putting it in liquid is because of blended refrigerants, that's the idea.

So when we did r22, we used to char we used to charge via vapor with r22. Quite often i mean going really slow. The downside is, your tank would start to get cold and then sometimes the pressure would drop and you know, then you need to flip it over anyway, but that's sort of an old-school way. When i started in the trade with r22, we would charge in vapor all the time, whereas now you're supposed to charge in liquid, so that you don't get fractionation, you don't get separate uh constituents going into different rates, because r410a is made up of two different refrigerants.

R32 and r125, yes, r125, and it's 50 50 of each, and so, if you charge it in vapor, you might get more of one than the other. In fact, you'll generally get more 125 than r32. I think is how that works, but anyway there's a reason why that matters, which i i was deciding, whether or not i would go into it, but we won't go into it right now. How come yeah we're not gon na go into that right now but anyway.

So that's why we chart that's why, when we're charging r410a we're always flipping the tank upside down everybody's noticed that right always flipping the tank upside down, because our tanks, our charging tanks, don't have a dip tube in them. I had a guy from australia say why are you turning it upside down? It's got a dip tube. Apparently tanks in australia have dip tubes in them, i'm not sure but uh in the u.s. We do not have dip tubes, so we flip it upside down, but the challenge is: if you take - and you open that valve on your manifold or if you're, charging with probes and you open it wide open, you're going to dump liquid straight in the suction line.

It's going to go in really quickly, that's one problem, but then also you could potentially slug the compressor. I would like you to use this. The easiest way to use this is just put it on the tank. So, if you're going to be charging a system, whatever your active charging tank is just put it on the tank.

The only time you're going to take it off is if you've got a system, that's got no refrigerant in it. It's under vacuum and you don't mind putting liquid because you're going to put it in the liquid line. You can't put refrigerant in the liquid line to ryan's point when the system's running, because obviously the pressure is higher than the pressure of the tank. So if you want refrigerant to go into the system, you've got to put it into the suction line, but we don't want to put a bunch of liquid into the suction line, which is why, historically, we would just kind of meter it in if you've ever seen.

A technician do that, where they're kind of slowly metering it in maybe they're watching the sight glass on their gauge, that's what they're doing, but often you're, still kind of putting a little too much in too fast, and this just prevents you from doing that. It's also really hard on electronic database manifolds yeah, the the putting recursion through it yeah. I want all of you to grab one of these. If you don't have one anybody who doesn't have one all the backstory metal, these are like plastic.

Next thing is the fiberglass heat flame, blanket um that you lay down on the on the ground underneath uh, wherever you're working, if you're working inside, to protect the flooring or anything else you're trying to protect on those cold cold nights. My back is a next thing. Is our electrical probe kit and i see and the point of this the reason i'm giving this out is to hopefully open your mind to the fact that there are a lot of really nice prototypes that you're not currently using, and especially for service technicians, for example, If you have to get into a molex plug and measure a regular probe is a pain in the butt, but these little needle probes are great. Maybe the intention of these is to stab through insulation.

I don't want you using it for that. I've seen people use them like that, because they have a little point on them. I want you using it to get into connectors that are otherwise very hard to get into with a regular pro. The other thing is - and some of you may not know this - is that when you have these kind of like heavily insulated probes, where they're insulated further up, this is actually just another type of needle probe, but they're insulated a little further up.

Those are safer to use in cases where you've got other things that are live around when you've got a long metal probe. It's more likely that you're going to short it out and so always think about the probe that you're choosing and then also your regular old alligator clips are really nice. If you're walking through a circuit go ahead and put this on common and then you can, you know, walk your way through a circuit with just using one probe, so you're not always having to do this. It's also got these little insulated probes here.

That can kind of grab grab a conductor or terminal whoa, which is nice. It's got this little guy here, just another yeah another reach out and grab that bird. Look at this one whoa see that see that lots of handy little things - and this is not an expensive kit. This kit, i think, is 30 bucks.

Something like that. Give it to somebody who actually has ever in their life used the clamp that comes with the meter. I have one right here: usually there's a terminal yeah right: the complicated terminals yeah you're, talking about the alligator clips, yeah yeah yeah right find somebody who will use it who's actually used right. All right.

That's what i'm saying so this is going to be yeah all right, all right, so we're going to start more with the senior guys here. All right here you go next thing is: who is good with keeping proper batteries on your vehicle? Anyone? What do you mean? What type of router? Because it doesn't matter it doesn't matter because with this little guy here, this is a really nice temperature clamp it's one of my favorite tools that i've got um, but it's got two downsides. I can't get this package it's hard to open. Okay! It's the right one: who's, mommy's, strongest boy, two downsides to this tool: one is that the display is really small and in a really awkward location, that's kind of a bummer.

The other downside is that the batteries go dead, all the time because it uses a tiny little watch battery. So what you do is this is really simple. I'm going to show whoever gets this i'm going to give you a tip of a lifetime, see this stays in this really nice pouch, which has a little hook, strap here, that you can put on the side of your tool, bag or whatever, but you take one Of those sleeves of the right size batteries - and you tuck it in here, then, when your batteries go dead, you've got extras. Whoa get out of here.

What whoa looks like you're prepared? You know what i'm saying same thing also with like triple a's. Anything like that. Like say, you've got a micron, gage and say say your name rhymes with chad, meniere and say we're in class, and i'm like hey. Can you grab your micro engage and he grabs two of them and neither of them have any aaa's in them.

They don't do you much good, so in your vacuum, kit keep extras in your meter. Bag keep extras in your in your bag for your scale or whatever around your scale, keep some extras right there and then your life is so much easier because one nice thing about calories is we don't expect you to buy batteries on your own. That's a nice thing, you know if you, if you go to home depot and the only thing that's on your little order - is truck stock for batteries. I'm fine with that.

Now! If this truck stops for batteries - and you throw some tools on there now - you get in trouble, see it's really simple: you throw a red bull on there also get in trouble, but if you're just buying batteries for your tools, fine, with that ace hardware, great place, Ace is the place for the helpful hardware folks right, also batteries all right. So who wants this? Nobody wants this all right there, you go here's another thing, and this is also just sort of a demonstration all right. So this is for heat shrink and there's a couple there's a lot of different versions of these. You don't have to use this particular one.

The other nice thing about this one is it's flameless, and so the flame is happening in here and it's got. The shield downside is, is it's a little on the slow side? So if you're really in a hurry - and obviously it's kind of limited in size too? So you're not going to do giant heat shrink, connector or whatever you're connecting, and you just slide this you just hook it over. I bet you, you can cut that thing off the little shield yeah. No, the shield, just pops right off yeah! You don't need the shield, but the shield is nice if you're working in a tight area.

That's why like, if you're working on other wires, you don't want to handle something yeah and you would never do that right, never working another wire. So here's the demonstration so in terms of heat shrink, butane is the the ball. There's a lot of different types of little butane torches, and it really is great because you don't have to have electricity, you don't have to worry about batteries. They make a battery powered, milwaukee, makes a battery-powered heat gun now, and it is pretty cool, but it isn't doesn't have near the heat output of a plugged in version.

You know that those are really your three options. You can use a butane torch, you can use and battery power you can use a plug-in, obviously the plug-in's pretty inconvenient, but one thing that a lot of guys don't understand is that you can refill butane. It's really easy see. It's got this little guy right here goes into the end.

Here. That's how you refill the uk. Everybody get that all right. So these guess, where they sell them at britain, it's the place yeah, they have their response to the podcast, no they're, not there, no they're, not, but i would love them to be.

It's like my favorite store, specifically ace and groveland. That's why i don't care groveland. All right so who could use a little heat shrink butane heater who's going to make? If i give them to them who's, going to actually start making heat shrink connections, you will okay, all right all right. So here's the next part that i want to demo that i want to show you.

I've got some uh heat shrink, butt connection kits that are still printed yeah. I i know it's funny, i said, but these are still print connections with your crimpers there's two spots on your crimpers there's the crimp that has the indent on it and that's for uninsulated and then there's the part that squeezes the whole barrel and that's for insulated. Does everybody know that i've used the wrong side for pretty much my entire career and it works fine and i'm really not that concerned about it? But when you use the ratcheting one that squeezes the whole thing, it does work pretty darn nice. Now you got to pay attention to the colors, because you know it's got a blue red and yellow on it and you've got to make sure to use the right jaw because if you put it on the wrong, listen to this part when you use the ratcheting Crimpers, if you put it on the wrong color it'll get stuck sometimes and then you have to take the whole thing apart and it's real really not fun.

Yeah i've tried, but i'm mommy's strongest boy. So if i can't get it, then none of you can for sure. So these are all just butt connections now. The reason why you would you would use these in place of wire nuts uh whenever you're making a connection between two wires? That's you know: they're going the same direction, you're, adding onto a wire whether it's a fan motor wire thermostat.

That sort of thing now, in the case of thermostat wires, whenever you're doing a crimp connection, you want to double over the end of the thermostat. So if it's a solid wire crimp connections do not work well on solid, yes, travis you can on those type, you can extend both of them further strip it back further and extend both of them. So they don't go all the way through yeah, and for that matter you could even go ahead and make a lineman's off first and then pull it over. That would be even better and as it turns out, i'm working on something about that and then, when you're done, you just heat shrink.

Now i like these either way because they have longer sleeves on them. They cover more distance on the wire, so they they cover more area. So i, like these butt connections, either way these connectors here actually have solder in them, and so, when you melt them down the solder melts and actually makes a soldered connection. The downside is: is that the way they show to use these is just taking two wires and just crossing them, so this doesn't have a crimp to it, and that's the downside is that, while you're heating it they tend to want to pull apart on you um And i don't really love that how i've used this is, if you're going to make an underground, thermostat wire connection, you take them.

You slide a bunch of these over one side, and then you take your wires twist them together twist them together, trim the ends off. So now you've got linemen splices and then you pull them over and then you heat shrink all of them does that make sense. So when you're, making a alignment or a western union or a nasa splice, whatever you call it literally it's the simplest thing in the world. You just take your thermostat wires.

You make them long cross them over each other and you just twist twist twist twist twist and then snip the ends off nice and nice and flat so they're not poking out pretty simple. But this is just nice, because now you don't have to use a soldering iron, you just pull them over and then heat it up until the solder melts. So these are. These are pretty nice.

I'm going to give this one to ryan because he's most likely to actually use it. We've also got a couple little heat shrink kits here for anybody who wants i'm not really thrilled with these. Just because of how short the pieces of heat shrink are. It's kind of a bummer, so we're going to get some more of the big heat shrink, three to one or four to one shrink ratio.

So just a quick thing on heat shrink, not all heat shrinks. The same most of the cheap heat shrink you buy is two to one, meaning it shrinks to half its size, its original size, three to one means it shrinks to a third and fourth, one means it shrinks to a quarter of its original size. Obviously, shrinking more shrinky is generally better for most applications and then also some have an adhesive on the inside and some don't. Obviously the ones with an adhesive on the inside are nice because they can seal off against moisture.

So, if you're doing underground connections, that's nice downside is of course - and this is true - pretty much all heat shrink once you've shrunk, it down you're ain't, getting it off, you're cutting that thing apart at this point, so with some of the non-adhesive heat shrink, you could Potentially, i guess slice it off in some cases, but let's be realistic. That ain't happening. So we like these all right, cool anything else. Oh yeah.

Now i've got two now i've got two major major prizes here. Anybody here, who does not have a large vacuum hose anybody here who does not have an oversized vacuum hose. Currently anyone you don't have one all right. There you go you're the winner of a wow blue vac vacuum hose.

The final thing is the navac uh switch kit is nice because, if i'm not mistaken, let me make sure that i'm not does it stay here. Oh jesus, let's open, it goes up to inch and an eight that is true. It goes up to inch and a where the other brands is not, but whenever you're using any type of expander. So this is technically a tube expander.

Whenever you're using a tube expander, always turn it small increments. As you go, you almost never want to just sit there and expand, and you don't want to also do it really fast. You'll split it or you'll create little weak points. You know expand it a little bit turn it expand it a little bit turn it three or four times doesn't hurt right, you're, already saving time using it, this one's nice, because it's small um.

I find this one to be probably the nicest from a field standpoint. That's out there and when you're in the market, to get one of these, if you ever want to get a tube expander on your own, you know, like not me, buying you one. This one is less expensive than one of the other normal brands, any installers or install helpers. Who do not have that i'll get you pictures too? You already have a tube expander, though yeah everybody knows everybody knows that.

Okay! Well, here's what you thought. I've done! Okay, every installer has all right. So here's what we'll do? What we'll do you have to give your current one to a helper whose name isn't gavin so again. The point of this is just a few things that make your job easier.

I don't you know like. I don't expect you all to be tool - nerds in fact, you're, probably better off, if you're not uh, because it is very expensive and time consuming, but there's a lot of especially little small things, uh that do make your jobs a lot easier um i want to Mention quickly, there are some of you who don't have leak, detectors or haven't thought about leak, detectors or don't maintain your leak sectors or don't know how to then that's what that's a big one that i want to just mention. We've got a whole stack of h10s back here that people just keep stacking up, and i think they imagine that if they just keep stacking them, eventually i'll go through and fix them for them, and they are right and they are right because eventually i'll just get So frustrated that they'll do it, but i would much rather you in terms of one tool that i really want you to take seriously on your own. It's your leak, detector and the reason is, is because they're so expensive and if i just throw them at you, you don't care about them.

I want you to care about them, make sure that they work properly know how to test them know how to maintain them. Know where to get parts for them, when you need to fix them, sensors pumps, all that stuff, it'll save a lot of heartache and having a good working leak. Detector on your truck is just a necessary part of being a service technician or an installer. Frankly, for those of you who are new to the to the business, obviously i don't expect you to go out and buy one right this second, but i want you to get really good at using elite detector.

So when you're with somebody and they're doing a leak section, i want you to ask if you can do it because being good at leak, detection being good at finding leaks along with you know, there's really three major super tech super skills. One of them is diagnosing complex, refrigerant circuit problems, which hints it's almost always airflow next is so refrigerant circuit problems are mostly airflow. Next is electrical diagnosis, specifically low voltage, electrical diagnosis and then the third is leak text and if you get really good at those three things, in addition to just normal obvious things like cleaning grains well - and you know catching dumb stuff - you know not forgetting to put Disconnects back in not forgetting to put caps back on your drain stuff, like that you're, a pretty good tech right, i mean that's really what it takes to be: a pretty good tech, good travis, the testo heated diode battery powered yeah. No, i tested the testo uh heated diode against, and i can't remember the name of it right now: um the number, because it's just a number against the field, piece, heated, diode and against the h10 and they're all all three of them are are solid leak detectors.

It's about two three hundred dollars: yeah very reasonable yeah, so um yeah, and so, if you're just getting started, you don't want to spend the money on an h10 pro or a stratus like alex, hey, alex how's that stratus working for you. It's actually working good. Now yeah, you figured it out yeah, the stratus is infrared, but it's different. It has an actual ppm indicator, so the stratus and the pgmir, the backdrag pgmir, are considered to be the two like nicest late detectors: portable detectors on the market, but then, after that, h10 pro generally tests out as the most accurate, but also a little on the Finicky side, uh and then your you know, whichever you like, i mean.

Sometimes some people like the tif zx model, that's been around for a long time. Uh just good old, heated diodes, but you just got to know your leak. Detector and you've got to test it regularly. So know your leak, detector test it regularly.

That's another thing about that: little port, adapter thingy! You can put that on put your tank on vapor and then just crack the valve just barely crack it on your tank. Talk about this yeah, that's it listen to what i'm telling you you take this guy, you put it on your tank tank, vapor, so right, side up and then just crack the valve so now you're creating multiple restrictions. I'm just saying trying to find an easy way to create a really really small reference leak. You still think it's too much.

Okay. Well, what's your preferred wedding use a test. Huh. All of those leaks are very large um, so yeah, that's a good one.

So jesse makes a good point: crack your hose, put it until you're, just barely getting bubbles, then wipe it off and then leak. Stick, that's probably a good way. That's probably the best way, all right cool anything else. Anybody want to talk about.

No great have a wonderful week, it's still going to be warm, but just it's fall just remember. It's fall hey good day. It feels warm just pretend. Like it's cold, you.