Clayton Peeples shows how to use 45% Silver solder to braze Steel and Copper. Bryan explains the difference between his and Claytons approaches.
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Hey everybody: I got this video from Clayton peoples, who's, a great refrigeration tech, not too far away from us. He sent it on how to use 45 % silver solder when brazing, together, steel and copper. Now. The first thing I want to say here is that he did some things in this video that I would not do.
I mean I want to highlight what those are just so that you know the differences. I think it's still a really nice video, because he does this all the time and obviously has great results. One thing that I would do differently is most of the flux manufacturers. Tell you, in the case of like, for example, the Harris guide that, when applying flux, to only apply it to the male end, so that way you don't get flux inside the lines.
That's one thing. Another thing is: is that after he applies the 45 percent silver rod, he uses 15 percent on top and that will probably work because the 15 percent will bond to silver and copper. But 15 percent has phosphorous in it and that's why it's called foz, copper and the phosphorus does not react with the steel properly so that that doesn't work with steel, so anytime, you're working with steel, you don't want to use a phosphorus bearing rod now, in his Case what I really like that he did is he made sure to draw that 45 percent into the joint really well nice and clean, don't touch it with your oily grubby phalanges make sure to clean this thing up real good again. This is raising copper to steal, but 45 % stay still raising flux.
Raising flux are going to put that I'll put that all over here. This has got acid in it, so don't get it on any cuts inside real well like that fit it on there. Here's a little tip you can tighten that on and it will keep the light from. Turning no will go too tight because you will dip the copper there we go.
This is pre fitted. You want your tanks turn them on 10 in 20. Normally would I run 20 on the oxygen 10 on the acetylene, let's clean up 45 bust it a few hits on the cat, but that's okay, they're all the way around nice coverage and you'll notice. What we did we used it on a full stick that way.
You got something to hold, because if you would have used a stub like that, it would have been very shaky. Someone holding it so they'll tell you 45 percent to steel right there. All the way around clean surface is very, very important. Another thing that I would do differently is protect that angle valve with some wet rags or wet rag from refrigeration technologies to keep that from overheating.
You know these things are designed to deal with a lot of heat. So in this case, I'm sure it's fine, but that's something I would do differently. One thing that he did and you'll notice it in the video that he doesn't mention is that amid seated that valve and that's important when your braids into those valve, so that way, the seals don't get stuck in one position or another so that that valve was Mid seated, which is exactly what you want to do before you braise to a vowel. Another thing is flowing nitrogen while brazing again it's only one joint, so not the end of the world, but flowing nitrogen, while brazing will help prevent from building up oxides on the inside of that valve and in the case of you, know, working with steel you're, not Necessarily gon na see that cupric oxide on the steel side, because it's copper oxide, but you will see it on the copper side when you keep that copper. So my steps would be protect the valve mid seat to valve flow, nitrogen use, 45 % or my favorite product is the 56 % flux coated rod, put your flux on the male end of the rod and make sure that you draw that solder into the joint. So start by applying your heat to the male side, the actual tube side. So that way it conducts heat into the joint and then move your flame over to the connector itself. Recognizing that steel does heat differently, it heats more in spots because it's not as conductive.
So when you apply heat to the steel, the heat stays more concentrated in one place. You're gon na want to move it around on the steel in order to get that 45 % or 56 % klux coated to flow into the joint. All in all great video I like to show these things because it represents what's really being done in the field, and he shows some nice tips for some things to do. For example like using the the large piece of copper for holding, it is a really nice tip as well.
So thanks to Clayton for sending this to me and all of you out there, if you have any other top tips or videos that you want to send, feel free to do so.
Good idea to store that full oxygen bottle right below your lit flame. Think I’ll try that.
Would anybody run 500 degree F thermal oil through copper with brazed joints with over 1000 degree F melting point solder? Just a temporary set up for about 6 months.
Unfortunately I’m on a roof doing these not at a table in my shop. We’re dealing with steel hub compressors and it’s way harder to get in there than this. That’s the info I was looking for, but this video came the closest to helpful I’ve found. I’m going to try the sticks today and see how that works. Thankyou
What would happen if you use 15 percent rod
Are you kidding?
#1 DO NOT get flux into the system which you did. #2 You trashed the valve – burnt the seals with no wet rag. to prevent the heat transfer to the seals. #3 No nitrogen means you contaminated the piping with carbon. Epic Fail!
I Just reference this video on a job. I can confirm that 56% Uncoated also works. I did 5/16 copper to steal condenser coil. I also followed up with some 15%. The joint looked great. I used plenty of flux on the copper female end only. True Mfg. lowboy prep fridge.
The guy that was brazing this needs to go back to basics. What a mess? Whenever using emery cloth? Should always clean the loose abrasive material from the base metals before applying flux or soldering as thesesmallparticles areabrasive andwillend up in the circuit and contaminate. Should never apply flux inside the female joint in this case it was the steel valve body. Try not to apply flux all the way near the end of the male pipe. Always heat the steel and not the copper when adapting steel to copper. DO NOT TRY THIS PRACTICE!!! Service area Barrhaven??
Greetings from Poland 🙂
good video, thanks for that
Great job
A wet rag around the valve at the spindle end helps protect the gland packing
Why do you fast forward the welding part of the welding am asking because of those of us with ear problem, thanks.
Thanks for video, but I know you need to heat the fitting then you heat the tube, because there is Aur gap between both that prevents a good heat transfer
Prefer flux core. When doing large size copper to steal the flux will burn off. Flux core applies the flux after the fitting is hot and prevents burn off. Are you in Orleans ?
Did he switch solder from roll to stick? Service area Kanata??
be careful with the heat.overheat will ruin the flux.heat joint until flux takes on a water like appearance and then apply silver solder.
Flux the pole not the hole.
Re-upload?