We cut up a Bristol recip that is shorted to ground and we see what we can find out.
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Mitsubishi Cooling & Heating: https://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes
and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/
Carrier: https://www.carrier.com/
Mitsubishi Cooling & Heating: https://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/
Brian with hvac school here we are going to be cutting some compressors today, ulysses, palacios style, you've, never seen. Ulysses palacios got a compressor, not gon na claim to be in his same ballpark, but we got a bristol here and in this case I don't actually know. I mean I should know because it should have been properly tagged, but it's not it's been sitting around here for a while. So I don't know what's wrong with this compressor, so we're gon na cut this one open and see what we've got on this bristol.
Reciprocating compressor, one thing: that's interesting about this compressor that I noticed right away. It's got this tag. That's like melted off. So first question is: why is it melted off? But since this compressor must have start assist PTC r4 equalized pressures, capacitor and relay for pressure difference, I'm not exactly sure what that means, but it doesn't mean that it needs to have a hard start kit or start assist kit on it.
We've got our terminals common start and run we're gon na cut it right in the center here, because, on this motor, the actual motor part is on the top. The compressor part is down in the bottom. I've got a fire extinguisher over. There got our cutting wheel.
We've got all of our flammable gasses removed from the area ready to cut this sucker open, so les is gon na make some sparks through my safety glasses as well. All right see if we got into it first thing: you'll notice - is that the suction line just go straight down into the shell. So you have this suspension here that actually keeps the actual compressor part and full suspension. So you've got the motor up here.
On top we're doing further, let's make this thing out and let's see if it is an actual short or if it was maybe a pumping problem, because I'm not really sure the oil doesn't look bad. Will they pretty clean? Put this on insulation test we're on five hundred volts, which is the right voltage to test this out since it's a portable compressor, zero make ohms to ground. So we are dead short at the ground, zero Megan's! We are shorted to ground on this puppy to get some shavings in it, but the oil is not real pungent. You can smell a little bit and this doesn't have a bunch of what you can actually look here.
Well, yeah. You can see on the side of this compressor, there's like material metallic material along the top of here this Ridge there's a lot of metallic material around these windings. So you can see here. This is the motor part here that drives it and that's in the top portion, so it's not all immersed in oil and everything like on a scroll motors in the bottom and the compressors on the top.
So this is a plug that was attached to the other side of the terminals. Those are those leads to go in and attach to the motor windings, and then here's our suspension points here. This one has a since is the discharge line where it looped up around and then came up through. This is the other side.
So really all these do just go in one side. It seals here and then right out the other side with a separate plug. So this just basically makes the seal call that fuse. I just sort of a brand name - that's used, although this technically wouldn't be fuse light because a few sites now an emerson product. I think, then we have a built in crankcase heater on this one here. The leads so that just heats up keeps liquid refrigerant from migrating into the crankcase in the off cycle. Here's what we've got we've got our crankshaft here. It's driven by our motor attaches into the south side is the stator and the inside is the rotor.
That's apart, the turns drives this crankshaft and this has two pistons. Now I'm looking here at all these bearing surfaces looking for signs of copper plating, I'm not seeing much, I'm seeing a lot of copper material so that doesn't look too bad, so you can see inside these windings are definitely cooked on the inside of the motor. That's just what's binding it together right there, but it's not the winding itself. It's just the binding, but you can tell it's been hot yeah and if you look in there it's cooked cooked as they say.
Why does that happen? I mean it can happen for a lot of different reasons if the motor were to get mechanically bound, something were to break off where the actual rotor inside here were to actually come in contact with the stator and damage it that can cause it. It can be. You know metallic material that gets into the windings themselves and shorts are now can be the pointings over heated over time. The compressor ran too hot, so this is actually the compressor portion we're gon na pull this apart, see what we get inside here.
We've got our thermal overload right in there and that's what that connector is, and you see they just got open connections in there just call a Mersenne immersing, the refrigerant oil. When you look in there, you can actually see the windings are in really bad condition. Right right in that area as well - I don't know for sure, but I think this compressor has been running hot. You see right there.
All those windings in that just smoked. The actual compressor portion so far looks good. We're gon na try to get this compressor apart. It may be tough, the bolts they use on it or really abnormal type of bolts, so I'm not sure that we will be able to get it apart, but we're gon na try.
It says something worth noting is that the suction gets pulled in through here. This opening - and it goes across the windings you can there's windings in the overload - is right in here as well goes across these windings and cools the motor, and then it comes goes into this sort of like suction header, there's two lines here and then it goes Into the suction side of the compressor itself, the discharge side of the compressor is on the other side. Right here comes out here and then goes into like this discharge muffler and then out the discharge line. It is, you know it does just draw right over that motor in order to keep all this. This whole ascent motor assembly cool, but it's not even connected and there's not like it's not like a seal or anything you just sort of go straight out of that, and then just straight into this large opening. Here I got this off with the torques which this was sitting here so now these are eight metric. I don't think that's actually what these are, but we got it off with that, so we actually dug around in the oil. There was a lot more nasty material in there than I had initially thought has, but in a lot of cases you know these things were on hot over time there may be getting liquid flood back and the which washes out the oil and then over time it Just everything breaks down, although I will say that, looking at what I'm looking at on the crankshaft side, it doesn't look that bad again, I'm no compressor teardown experts, so I really shouldn't be talking too much in regards to what's acceptable and unacceptable.
I can imagine you know the guy from Copeland of Bristol or Ulysses are gon na, be watching this and, like oh, my gosh guys, but you know, unless you get your hands in it, sometimes it's hard to kind of know how things work and figure. All of you would like to see this, I'm sure there are videos like this out there, but I just haven't seen them where we really fully tear down different types of compressors, but it is helpful to understand you know how important it is to have proper lubrication Proper temperature - you don't want to over eat it in general. We say you don't want to see a discharge line temperature above 220 225 degrees, because that means that you could have a head temperature and that's right here in the head of over 300 degrees and as soon as you get to over 300 degrees, you get all Kinds of oil breakdown and all kind of nasty stuff. So, let's see here I think I got to get this off there we go that was actually easier than I thought it would be.
It almost looked like I knew what I was doing there. So that's our suction header, so that comes in here you can see the seals and good in good shape there so close and yet so far away man. They really have to put a bunch of different confusing stuff in there. It's actually in decent shape.
The oil inside the head is actually pretty clean, the stuff that's sitting down in the bottom of the compressors. It's got all kinds of gross material in it, but in the compressor it's actually fairly clean and I don't really. This isn't a really bad burn out, because I'm not smelling significant acid in the oil, pretty cool that discharged gas comes out that side right there. The suction valves are these valves right here.
These are the discharge. Valves makes sense, because pressure opens going that way draws in doing the other way, so it makes sense that the valves and the inside would open that direction and the discharge valves on this I would open that direction. So this is your suction header. I guess suction intake and then your discharge out the other side and there's actually a bolt this bolt here is coming in from inside the compressor. You can right down there, there's another little bolt and take these off the end here see if I can hand turn the compressor turns which we're pretty free. I do hear a clunking noise up in here stator side. So I don't know if maybe that's hitting something or, if that contributed to it, but we're going to turn this thing by hand. I was able to a second because I want to see turns we're pretty free.
I do hear a clunking noise up in here up in the stator side, so I don't know if maybe that's hitting something or if that contributed to it. But this is our move out on a limb here. I believe they call this the valve plate because I'm a real compressor, teardown expert, so this is our suction valves. So these you know the pressures is pulling in here in opposition to the four.
So here the pressure is applied outward and see. If I can pry this sucker up, so you get a sense of the amount of force it takes, may not even be able to supply it on these holes on there we go yeah, so you can see there. So that's your discharge valve and this one. It forces this way.
It opens your suction valve courses that way it opens there's suction intake and then, when it's ready for the discharge stroke when the piston starts to rise, then it goes that direction and discharges out. So that's a valve plate this. Actually, I thought this was a bolt that I had to remove, but it's actually just a bypass valve. I'm gon na go out on a limb and say this is what allows it to go into bypass.
So bypass is back into the shell then causes it to. Hopefully overload pretty quickly before it causes any damage. It's been pretty pretty confident in that these are our pistons here, pretty groovy, see there's oil all throughout the oil actually within the head on this compressor is actually pretty pretty darn clean myself see if I can spin it from the end a little bit stuck here. So looks like we've got pretty much just winding failure, you know if you can see that it spins pretty nice.
It was a little stopper here that keeps the piston from coming off of this direction. It's weird doesn't want to doesn't want to move from this side. I would have expected that I could push on those pistons and actually get it to move, but it ain't working. Alright, I'm gon na try to take off this end, there's our bearing their little cap, their little plastic cap.
So, nuts, I don't see any copper plating, which is one of the things you look for. I knew this was a Bristol, but I didn't realize this was one of those bristles. I guess I should have known that, but it's literally one of the ones that when you rotate it one way it activates both Pistons. When you turn it the other way, seeing it only turns the one piston, it's very interesting. So this way here it only activates one turns the other way. That's not really what this video is about, but that is a one of the Bristol compressors multistage compressors. It would unload one of the Pistons when it ran the opposite direction, so that, apparently, is what we've got right here, as I was wondering what this this got. This kind of weird mechanism here on the end and we're sketching in one direction and not in the other.
That explains why it's like that and see it moves a little bit, but it doesn't fully pump completes the full range you can see. It comes right up to the top there. That is a reciprocating compressor. You check this on the inside this piston.
Here it goes one direction. You can see it's pumping the other one. I got my rag stick now. This side right here stays this side here when it runs.
It rotates that direction. It only goes for a little ways and then it stops there's when you go this way it keeps pumping you can see. This cam here is built right onto the shaft, but this cam on the on this side has this rotating piece on the inside that only catches in one direction and then doesn't catch in the other direction. So that's the direction where this is actually moving that cam.
When it goes the other direction, it's basically changing the cam design. So you can see this this ear here is built right onto the side of the shaft, so it still has a little bit of motion. Alright, so that's it! That is a teardown of a Bristol. Reciprocating compressor got our suspension, the compressor crankshaft Pistons, the motor, the actual intake, and then we've got our valve plate with discharge valves here and our suction.
That's all intact. If you had one that wasn't pumping, you know, we could be that one of these valves is broken. It could be enough ones lock. You could see you know, maybe a lot of bearing wear or a lot of copper plating on the inside on this one.
We really don't see much of that. We really just have a straight up winding failure. So three well could have been. You know power quality issues, issues in the start, winding capacitor circuit, something with the star components that could that could very well have been the case, and especially in this case, it says right on there that it requires a start assist if you have a potential relay That locks in stays locked in that will burn up the start winding in pretty short order.
So that's very possibly what what occurred here, but I'm not going to actually break down the windings and actually see exactly which winding it is. That started the problem, but it's very likely this is been HVAC school, I'm Brian thanks for watching.
I totally miss Bristol Service area Barrhaven??
Interesting video in us no body rebuild them it’s just more easy to buy a new one, I know in different places in the world people rebuild them and putting back to work!
Love how the outside case has MADE IN USA and then when you cut it open to look at it, it's "MEXICO". Nice job, Bristol…
reed valves same as a 2 stroke engine is !
When showing stuff,stopmoving the camera so much…..Makes it a lot easier tosee for us. Now we just have to take your word for it.
That’s a big boy
I wish the explanation was slower and more detailed.
I really enjoyed this video. In the words of Ms. Frizzle (The magic school bus) "Take chances, make mistakes and get messy!"
Thanks for busting that compressor wide open and exposing what it actually is.
What are Blind Valve Plug used for while Flushing the air from the Compressor?
Sir skips alot!! holy skipalotomous!! skip much? Are you in Nepean ?
Excellent video
Someone should be able to help me solve most of aircondition problems
Am a technician from ghana west africa
And my whasap line is 020 906 4766
better camera work please
Video would have been better without all the talking
What a beautifully elegant way to make a two stage compressor. I guess there must be thermodynamic reasons why simply using a two-speed motor isn't as good as a reversible motor with that mechanism to disengage the second cylinder. Beautiful machine. Thank you.
It reminds me of Maytag top-load washers of the 1960s-1980s. Every other washing machine had clutches to allow the tub of water and wet clothes to start a spin cycle without overloading the motor, had solenoids and stuff (Whirlpool even had something they called the "wig-wag" which even looked as ridiculous as it sounds) to engage the transmission in spin or agitate, there were rag-joints between the motor and pump on GE-stuff, all Rube Goldberg crap. Maytag just used a reversible motor and high cloth belts which were allowed to slip during the start of the spin cycle – only use REAL Maytag belts or you'll fry the motor. Gentle Cycle, if your Maytag had it, didn't slip a clutch, it just used a two-speed motor on low for the Gentle wash. I see similar elegant design in this compressor.
So, it does matter for phase connection for a 3 phase reciprocating compressor ?
I am curious to know what grinder disks you are using. The compressors I have seem to be thick walled like this, and I can watch my grind disk shrink with just a few inches of cut progress down to nothing. I have a large grinder with a 1/8th disk but the increased level of metal sparks tend to set clothes on fire and the larger grinder also makes it hard to keep the compressor still because it takes both hands on the tool. Once I get a plasma torch this will be irrelevant but until then…I clearly need something better for grinder disks than what harbor freight is selling.
Thank you Are you in Orleans ?
I love you bristol compressar
Great video!
Can you rebuild this compressor to get running again?
Welldone, Bro pretty good job.
Hello Sir, What are the causes of piston stuck in sealed compressors
Dramamine!! Cool stuff, thanks for everything.. well, not the motion sickness but everything else!
Very interessting. Especially the two running directions of the compressor. How much cooling oder heating-Power did that compressor have?
Contrary to popular belief compressors don't pump, not for very long anyways. They suck, and they blow. No puns intended. Are you in Kanata ?
Thank you 😊
The grit and trash you're finding might very well be from the grinding/cutting open process.
Very informative thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Cool video, informative, thanks!
you just need to change the oil and get a box of windings. Send one of the new guys…
Reeealy cool. Thanks!
The piston unloader is cool as crap! I guess that's a true 50% capacity? Service area Ottawa??
Let me explain what the sticker meant.
Equalized pressures= piston and you can use one of those ptcr devices that like to explode
Pressure difference=txv and must use start cap and relay Service area Orleans??
A couple things you might not know about U.P.- he’s a Dallas Cowboys fan, IKR… also in his van, on the visor next to a picture of his Wife and son, is a picture of himself and his first decapitated compressor. You can’t make this stuff up.