All right today we are replacing an evaporator coil on a mitsubishi ductless system. This is one we installed about seven years ago, still in their limited manufacture, parts coverage so will will be going through the whole process. So we turn the system down we're going to pump it down, so we can save as much refrigerant as possible and disconnect it from the outside and actually remove the whole indoor unit and it will disassemble it and install the new coil, I'm just outside that way. We don't create any mess inside here.

It's just a lot nicer. You got all your tools right there by the truck and do you need anything flush drips, that's what we can do today? Okay, so here we have our evaporator coil, still boxed up and everything so like I said we got the system running, go ahead and pump that one down - okay, I don't know if any of you guys have replaced these evaporator coils on these ductless systems. But let me tell you they're a lot of fun and I say that sarcastically, it's a lot of work, so I'll kind of walk you guys through it today, I'm here by myself right now, so the video is probably not going to be too good. But I'll do the best I can for you guys so, like I said we got the system on right now we're going to go ahead and pump it down here's the system.

I got my gauges hooked up to it. You can see the fan turn in there. So we got a line height here, so we're gon na have to take that wall cap off and then undo the refrigerant connections there. Those are just two flare connections, so first company down right now we're sitting that 1:33 suction pressure.

So we got a 12 degree. Superheat, so we found that this thing was leaking a couple days ago and we set reset the charge, so the charge is still good. So it's a leak in a vac coil. It wasn't huge, but so how you pump these systems down is pretty similar to your traditional sweat system.

So we're going to wait to close the suction line in there until my pressures drop. You know, because this one has a leak. I don't want it to get below zero, so we're going to get down to pretty low yeah 2 psi whatever something like that. So I haven't closed almost all the way and we're just cracking a little bit here, but you don't want to fold that into a negative and potentially pull in outside air.

Let's close down here disconnect and you see where we're actually right at zero. So we didn't go into a negative, which is, which is what we wanted: that's perfect! Okay, so this is going to be my workspace. Unpackage, the new evaporator coil lay the cargo down. So that way, we have a nice working area, nothing's going to get scratched and see what sting looks like because I'm trying to work with one in two, so here's the new coil.

So how tight these units are. Everything has to do exactly where it's supposed to go so here all you have is literally a coil and then these are going to be the flared ends coming off. So yes completely disassemble that indoor unit you put this one in okay, so I'm going to pop off that line, hide and disconnect the two flare fittings inside the line hide a couple things to make bit really easy make sure you have a Phillips head drill bit. That's long enough to fit inside the line hide.

It really makes your job easy. On same thing, you got the tap cons going into the concrete. If you have a bit, that's a little bit longer, it's really going to make your job a lot easier and you know avoid stripping out those screws. Let's do this okay, then you got these screws that are pretty far back in here.

So, that's why you need the extended 5/16 bit. Then you got your little Phillips heads way in here again. That's why you need to be extended bit on the phillips end as well. So now you can! How are connections inside here? Well, you cut that back.

We got spray foam in the hole which is good, but it makes my job a little harder. That's okay place. It was done right, it's like we installed it or something yeah. I have screws in my mouth like Penta, we talk very clearly but yeah.

This is done correctly. Okay, so I forgot here he's gon na hit low assists here, so we got the drain line unhooked here we also undid the wiring on the inside, so we're going to try to get that spray foam out of there and then just pull down the whole indoor Unit and I take it apart - everything outside here - okay, so we got all the spray foam out of there. It's working good. You can feel that's loose.

So now we're going to walk around to the inside I'll, go ahead and pull that down. So it was a little tough coming out of the wall there just due to the spray phone. We got that as good as we could and it was got it out here we're going to start disassembling it. You got two scooters on the bottom here on that you want to undo when you're doing this, you need to make sure you keep every one of these screws every one of the little plastic Clips.

You don't want to lose this okay, so we got those three screws out and on the top here, you're going to have the clips. You have numerous Clips someone's here ones here ones here ones here now. This will allow for the whole top part, come on. That's the easy part.

So then you can have screws here here here then, on the left side, you got to disassemble quite a bit of this. This portion here move the coil sensors and all that fun stuff, so we'll get right into it. Dc's got the cardboard here concrete, so doesn't scratch the unit or scratch the concrete, mainly the unit? You could get some rust, residue and stuff coming out of that drain. Pan you don't want to get that on the concrete, either all right.

So now this left sides undone you're gon na have one of your coil sensors kind of down in here right here. Is it one of the coil sensors there all right summer positions a bit, so I'm here you have two different coil sensors, one! That's slightly larger! You go here and then a slightly smaller one that actually tucks on underneath side here, a little clip right inside here. It's on the coil as well, see you later okay! So we get this guard off. We're gon na have to undo this portion.

Here you got a screw here. I am did that. That gives this whole flower board and indoor board some extra room you can pull this out, gives you room. Here's your other coil sensor there undo that one and then that can all go to the board.

Also you're going to have your ground wire going on to that coil housing right there undo that one so now this is giving us quite a bit of room here, so we just got to get this blower this blower assembly out of here, and then we can Go ahead and put the new coil in okay, again the importance of having a long, screwdrivers, really key um, so you actually have to undo the blower wheel. So you have to take the blower wheel out. A couple of these are different. Some of them will have an allen key inside of here.

This particular one has the set screw right to their little Phillips head again. You have to have a long one, so we loosen that up. Um one thing: I want to point out to you guys that I've come across a couple different times when other people replace either blower motor or pull and clean, pull and clean a blower wheel, the actual shaft on these blower motors. If you get in close here, you can see they have a little outside rivet and then an indention, and then it pops back out again now when you tighten down that set screw.

If you tighten it down on this poor back here or on this portion here, you're kind of screwed as far as being able to get this off, so you really need to make sure the set screw is on the inside rivet. So somewhere in here. Not here not here inside of this part, now what I found is, if you make sure you have an even distance on either side here, usually you're going to be right in the ballpark. Just a side note so now, as far as the coil goes, you have to take everything apart, I mean you see we got our boards, we got our drain pan or louvers.

We're gon na have to actually pull out our whole blower housing. It's pretty amazing, but what we have left is literally our back piece and then our coil all of this comes apart. So these are kind of clipped in so you actually just kind of have to push it and then it slides out so there's actually not any screws on this portion. You just have a couple screws on the left-hand side, so here we have our old coil.

That was leaking and that's what you get with the new one, literally just this piece, you can see how disassembled everything is. I mean you have literally taken the whole indoor unit apart. I don't know it took us what 30 minutes. Maybe now we have to reverse that whole process and put everything back together when we have it apart, like this, what I'm going to do is I'm actually going to clean the blower wheel, this one's not bad a lot of times, they're bad, but if you have A part take the time, make sure you clean everything out really good.

You know it's gon na. Take you five minutes opposed to an hour and a half to do it we'll go ahead and clean everything up and start putting everything back together. So back to this stuff, putting it all back, together'he's, not too bad if you're fairly familiar with them, if you're not it may be overwhelming, it is overwhelming. You can always go to my link, drive, calm and look at the service manual and they will have a step-by-step process to do this.

I've done a decent amount of these, so I don't have to go step by step, but if you ever get in a pinch and it will walk you through - obviously that's if you're working on a Mitsubishi product - and that is the one nice thing about Mitsubishi - I Mean they have a lot of great features? You know a big thing that, like I mentioned earlier Brian or actually had a scenario where he went to pull or actually replace the blower motor. I believe previous company or previous technician were not really sure what happened, but it they had tighten the setscrew down on outside of that little indention, and then they worked on it for a long long time trying to get it off and what they ended up. Having to do is actually take a actually cut the shaft off, because you can't really take this apart, so they had to actually cut the shaft off and then replace the blower motor, as well as the blower wheel. The severity of making that mistake of not putting the setscrew on the correct places is pretty severe, so one other thing we want to note here.

We actually have to give the little clip off the old coil or that coil sensor, so that there's a little clip on there. We want to want to get and use on the new one. So you'll have the copper piece, but you won't have the piece that secures it so you'll actually need to get this part out, and we use that one okay, so we got the new clip. You've still got your whole new copper housing there.

This is what's going to keep the sensor in place once it goes in there, so the larger one goes in there. This one has its own little clip again that that you clip on through the coil alright, so we're going to want to do this in order at this point, we're going to want to put in this reverse so we're going to put in the blower motor and Blower wheel, so we're going to put those in there and then start step-by-step, putting it all back together, all right so now before I go any further, I wan na take the blower wheel, slip that in and then like I mentioned earlier, you're going to really want To focus on the spacing here when you're setting the screw, if you look at the set screw in here, if you look from this angle here, you can actually see the tip of it poking through there. So that's kind of a good reference point as to where you're supposed to be now. We got our wires here, how we want them for the blower tucked in the slides piece in screw that asset line up with right there and that clips in at the top.

So that locks in then we're going to take our drain pan loop over those wires through that, and this is going so what I like to do is actually just disconnect the drain hose here. That way, you don't have to worry about it, and you can do that at the end. So when you put this in, you kind of have to slide it in like here and then it kind of slips in to place so just a little bit of an angle, and it will slip right in so we get all three of those flipped in again. You're doing this all kind of upside down.

Can you got these copper lines coming over here, so it's a little bit funky again, take these wires, put them all back where they're supposed to be. This has a little clip it clips into here and hold all that in place. Drain line got a clip here, obviously make sure that Clips in at the top of your drain pan there so here's the one I disconnected. So we could get this in without having to worry about space clips back on there, so we're good we're getting close um.

Now it's starting to look like a chuck with unit again line all these up one there here here, the final one right there on the bottom. Here, it's kind of got a little female end slips inside this groove. I don't rub down and final screws in there. All right, so we are ready to remount this on the wall when you're going back through you're going to take some duct tape, tape this all together, nice and tight.

That way, you can push it through. You know 2 and 1/2 inch hole there. If you don't tape those it's going to be a real pain, so you want to do that. Obviously, our hands are a little bit dirty we're getting some fingerprints on here.

So once we get that back up on the wall, we'll wipe everything down make it look really good. Alright, we got the new one up. There connected took two people to get it on there. Just that hole was pretty tight, so we had to use two people.

So we won't be able to get a video of that, but that's ok! It's pretty standard! You guys have ever installed on that that parts going to be the easy part for you so right now we got it under pressure at 300. Psi I'm going to let that sit. We did bubble test, it no bubbles, so we're probably good, but I'm just confirming with pressure as well. I'm gon na feed these wires back through wire up the indoor unit and here on out pretty basic stuff hey.

This is Brian with hvac school. One thing I want to add before this next clip comes up. Jesse did an excellent job with this entire video and the way that he did this install, but the next piece here when he starts doing the evacuation of the system. He doesn't do a standing test on an actual decay test, which is something that I really really suggest doing strongly suggest doing.

He does pull down below 500 microns and that's good, but his micron gauge is on the manifold. It's not all the way up at the pump, so that's better than that, but I would rather see him not use a manifold at all. Use a core remover tool, put the micron gauge on the side, port of the core remover tool and then valve it off and do a decay test to make sure that you don't have rising or increasing microns consistently, as the system holds underneath vacuum. So those are some things that I would I would suggest, if you're gon na, if you're going to do this, don't do it exactly the way he did it instead do it with the pump directly to the core remover tool, micron gauge on the side of Korver Tool side, part of the core motor tool and 3/8 or 1/2 inch vacuum rated hose to the core remover tool, you're going to pull the vacuum quicker and then do the isolation test and make sure that your microns don't rise over time.

Okay, so we've got all these connections redone here, as well as the drain line electrical. That's all hooked up. You have this thing. Pressure tested at 300 psi for about 30 minutes hold them perfectly.

We got a non vacuum right now, we're down to four 6756 we're going to go ahead, close our valve down Vince the charm from proper drainage. I went ahead and poured some water in there and it is draining properly so hopefully this is helpful, guys catch. You later.