This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. All right today we have a walk-in freezer door that uh is damaged. Now this door has been replaced. You know within the last few years, but it's been damaged by ice buildup.

So we're going to be replacing the whole door um we've got a new one coming right now, so we just need to verify measurements of the new door. Uh looks like maybe they have their freezer turned off at the moment too, because they just walked in here and everything's off, and it doesn't look like there's any power, so they probably have a breaker shut off. It's like maybe some ice accumulation, no not in the coil, so maybe just ice from the door, not shutting or something um but yeah. It's gon na be a fun process, so i'm gon na get on it.

So i dug into it a little bit more and talking with the customer. This had been turned off yesterday and they forgot to turn it back on. So luckily everything's still frozen in here, but their ice cream is gone. So that makes it difficult because we're gon na have this freezer.

Coil turned off for a good six hours today, while we're changing this door, so it's gon na get even warmer in here, so we just got the door out of the trailer the door's fine. They do send this metal to cover the sides and stuff and it is damaged, but that's not too bad and oftentimes. We have to cut some of this metal off, so i can probably repair that. That's not a big deal, i mean i'm not happy about it, but the ice behind the door there's something going on.

It's probably in the wall too, so there's not gon na be a whole lot. We can do about that. But first thing we're gon na do is start getting everything disconnected we're gon na get the thresholds taken off the side plates taking off, save all the screws, save all the metal because we might reuse some of it then get the electrical disconnected. Then we'll unbolt the door pull it apart and proceed with the repair um.

We are going to end up. We got to disconnect all the electrical, so i haven't figured out what this is for yet, but we'll just kind of take it apart. This is my lighting circuit so because we're going to disconnect it while we change the door, we want the lights in here to still be on, so we're going to have to hardwire from in here. We just got to figure out.

What's what where the switch wiring's going and then we'll hardwire it playing with it and turning the switch off? What i determined is this is power coming in on this conduit. It's going into here running into this light, which goes into the wall, goes down to the switch comes back on this black wire, which is going to the actual light right here. So all that we need to do is take the hot wire connect it to this wire going to the light and then we'll have to hardwire the common or the neutral. And then then, we'll have a light and we can pull the door off safely without having any power connected, even though these wires have no power on them.

I isolated them with wire nuts. Just for safety. We jumped the hot black and the black going to the load together and then we jump the common or the neutrals together coming from the panel going to the load. So, theoretically, this door should be completely electrically disconnected, but i still haven't figured out what this is.

I think this is something old: that's not being used anymore, but um. We don't want to assume, so you always want to double check. We also somehow should have a vacuum seal. A vacuum breaker heater wired in too these are typically not fun.

So there's just a little bit of spray foam there we got the top peeling loose still got to get the bottom to peel loose. It's just, there's really nothing but the bolts that holds it together. The spray foam was just a seal and i'm not even a huge fan of using the spray foam, but it just seals this gap, but i think once we get this off. What we're gon na find is that the wall is probably not straight, that cove plate down there shouldn't be behind the door, there's little things that aren't the door didn't seal like there's a big gap right here.

It's like it's not sitting on a level surface, so we're gon na have to dig into that. Once we get it all pulled out all right, we got the door off. Clearly, there's a bunch of water damage looks like the walls are starting to separate a little bit too there's only so much you can do with these now we're in cleanup mode we're gon na get all the ice. All the foam off clean the floors clean everything, we're probably going to be taking that cove plate off, because i don't want that behind my door at all, but i can clearly see that the wall is bowing right here.

So that's not good whole thing's coming out again, there's only so much you can do about these things, but it's a process getting everything cleaned up pulled apart. We're gon na make a new electrical we're getting rid of all this crap. That's all done! Um, the old one there was like cord running down we're gon na get rid of all that stuff, we'll make it look nice, but what i'm looking at is it looks like the seam is opening up and the lock and the walk-in was loose there. I was able to turn it now.

I want to try to get a little more torque on it, so i'm going to get a wrench on it see if we can suck it in, but to be honest with you being loose, this long probably caused damage because it looks like the whole whole frame Is sunk in that way and it's sticking out this way because ice has gotten behind it and in between it that's all ice right there. So we got to get all that out. We're going to try to pull this thing back in this is a better shot. We pulled the cove plate off because it was in the way we're gon na break up all that ice, but you can clearly see how the wall is separating and no matter how tight i do the locks it's not pulling it in, and i think we have Some permanent damage here, but we're gon na keep defrosting everything kind of going from there.

So if you look on the inside, it's not separating as much on the inside as it is on the outside. The outside is separating really bad. So that tells me that it's not the lock mechanism, that's the problem, they're tight and they move and everything's good, but just the wall is just completely pulling apart. Yeah so yeah, i'm just gon na, have to do my best to flatten it out with a sledge hammer i'll get a metal one, but it's you can see that as i try to hit it, it's actually just making it worse.

Yeah this whole thing's jacked. It is messed up. The problem is that it's not flat if you look right here, there's a ridge so when the door frame sits on there, it's not going to seal correctly because, like right here is the foam that seals it from air getting through it, and it's not sealing all Right, there's not much more. We can do about this uh we're going to try to maybe put some foam down.

You know to give it a better seal. It's not going to be perfect, but you got to be careful tightening it down, since it's not level it'll end up bending the door and that's probably what was happening before, because the door wouldn't shut in the middle like it wasn't ceiling. So, oh, it's polishing a turret for sure um this side. I don't think we need to move that metal stainless plate.

I think it's fine, it doesn't look like the old door was hitting it this side. It was so we took it off completely and then we also moved the shelf to make our life easier to work. So we're going to do a couple test fits on and off with the door. It's just how it has to happen.

Looking at the old door, you can see how there's a gasket here and then there's this tiny little gasket here and it just saturated all the wood, because the moisture was behind there and just completely bowed everything and yeah. It's just a mess all together. All right. You got to be careful, taking the door off the frame, especially when it's this loose, because it's not very strong, but we pulled the door off just to be able to see the fit a little bit better.

So we're gon na get the frame kind of set up there figure out what we need to do. I have a feeling we're gon na end up putting foam tape on the back of the door right up here like right, where it's starting to separate and then just go from there down to help seal up the gap temporarily. The customer is going to have to replace something they're going to have to figure this out, but we're going to get this door on at least for now. We've got some clamps here holding the door in place.

We think we have it where we need it. We went ahead and put foam tape on the inside all along here to to make it seal better. Now that could be our enemy later, but i think it's going to be better than nothing um and we're going to uh run the bolts through. So we're going to put a lot of bolts we're going to put them in the corners all the way down.

But you got to be careful before you start drilling because you got hinges and electrical on the other side and stuff. So we are pushing carriage bolts through these guys right here, but um. What we're doing is we're actually hitting the old plates for the old master belt, walking door. There was plates that would pivot in there and you could adjust the door hinges and we're hitting those plates.

So this drill bit is really struggling to go through. So what we do is we push a pilot bit through first, this guy push the pilot bit through. Then go with the big one, so it's looking really good. That foam is doing a good job.

That's the foam! You see it's smushed all the way down, so that's not as much of a gap as it is just foam. I know it looks like it's just a big opening, but it's not um, but we still have a problem up here. So it's snug right here, but up here there's a gap. So what we're going to do is run one layer of foam all the way across, and then i marked it right up here where the mark is at.

I think right here, we'll do a second layer of foam from here over, so we're going to go ahead and everything else looks good. What you want to do is uh look at the door gasket and it's sealed all the way down nice, and even we didn't like a dug of the bolts. It literally went snug and one full turn on every bolt evenly. You don't want to like tighten them down because you'll bend the door frame, because this is just wood and then what you want to do is you want to see how it shuts now it doesn't have the door closure on it yet, but you want to see How it shuts - and it should shut effortlessly, so i'm holding it and i'm letting it shut itself and it's not binding up on anything and it's nice and good.

So that's good! But again we're gon na have to pull the whole door off foam up. That top piece right there and then after that it'll be permanent and then we'll bolt it back on and then start finishing up. We still got to do a thermometer electrical, but we'll do all that after once, we get the door closure on and get it shutting. So you can see this is the foam that came on it in this little rubber piece and what i'm finding is it's not sealing and in fact we're going to put a layer right on top of this too, but we put foam back here all the way Around where it was hitting and everything so that way, it's sealing really nice that way so um.

The other thing, too, is there's so much moisture. Look right here when we step right there, the water comes out from underneath the freezer. So that's from a lot of different things, but one of the main reasons you do not ever want to wash a freezer floor with water. You just if you're going to shut it off, then just mop it, but don't buck it to water because it just gets stuck down there and that's just going to re-freeze and lift up the floor.

Get the door closure mounted. The the top was right at my bolt right there, so i was able to move it down. It's not 100 dead center, but it's pretty darn good and uh the door shuts. Now the most critical part of a door is about right.

Here we want, if you're testing the closure, if you're testing the hinges, you open it all the way, because the hinges close until the last two inches, but the closure catches it right here. So if you're ever testing to see if a door closure is bad, you want to do it right before it engages like right there and then it needs to shut the door all the way by itself. Just like that. So that's good! Okay! So now we know this is on now we're going to have to start doing.

Electrical electrical is going to be the next part and flashing um, so we're getting there. They give you this trim and you got to cut it down, but it it fills in the gaps. See that way you can make up for discrepancies, and you know, mistakes and everything. So you just cut it to fit.

It's not going to be perfect. I'm going to do something permanent on the bottom, because they they used to have or they're supposed to have a piece that protects that metal track right there, because they set pallet, jacks and stuff on it and they ruin it. So we usually have a solid piece that goes all the way down to the ground, but i think it was all jacked up or something so we're gon na get a new piece, but that's it for now. I would love to make it a one-piece threshold, but they buy these doors and they want us to use the trim they send because normally what i would do if, if i sold in this door, i would do all stainless steel right here.

I'd do custom, stainless steel all the way to the ground and everything, but that's not what they want. We didn't go too crazy, but we went ahead and put foam just on the inside just to fill the gaps all the way around and then we're gon na put all the covers on real, quick before it expands out. Now we buy the blue foam for windows and doors uh, because it doesn't expand as much and it won't bow crap. You got to be careful about that because if you use sometimes the yellow stuff or there's another one, it'll bend the door frame.

So the old one, the electrical was ran through the back of that light encapsulated in the foam back behind here, and it was all that crap that was blowing out of here um that stuff just becomes a problem. To be honest with you, i probably hit one of the electrical lines running these new bolts, but i just eliminate that i don't like the encapsulated stuff unless it's a brand new walk-in i'll do a run here. Just do it exposed we'll seal it up, go into a j box, leave a little extra in there come through to here and then we'll see all this up too. So we're just working on the electrical got to do this guy and then i got to pull wires through here for the frame heater too baby steps got the light working the light switch and it has the pilot light to let them know when it's on um Still working on cleaning up the wiring they had that bulb in there, but it wasn't even wired in so i wired it in it's kind of stupid but whatever um.

So i still got to connect the heater right here and still going to close that up, because that's not being used anymore, so we're getting there almost there. I need to put covers on everything and then we'll get some silicone on some of this stuff. We're not going to go crazy with the silicone, though, so i just got to double check everything. I went to go power up the heaters and then i went to go check current on them and the door heater wasn't working.

So there's a door heater and a frame heater and the wire was loose. So i got to go turn off power and then get that figured out real, quick, okay, so the door heater is at .7 amps and the frame heater's at point six. So now both my heaters are working. This is it um.

We pushed the shelf back and everything just a couple. Last things i'm going to come back with a cove plate for that corner right there they used to have a big sheet right there. I really don't feel like cutting it, plus we're going to cut it down to a much smaller piece and then i'm going to come up with a a giant. Um reinforcement piece right here, probably actually eliminate this diamond plate piece and it's going to come all the way down to the ground.

It's going to be 16 gauge stainless because they come in and they'll set like a hand, cart right here, and they constantly break this heater track off. So when we do that it'll come into about here i'll make it six inches deep, come down to right here. Screw it to the thing so, but other than that, that's it looks like the coil just went into a defrost um, but yeah everything's. Looking good uh, you know as good as it can be.

It's polishing a turd. You know um sealed up. We put the little caps everything, so that's it. That's a walk-in freezer door replacement um.

Let's see it's currently. 4. 35. So it's an all-day process.

We left the shop at 7am. We probably got here about 8 30 and then uh just been working ever since, and then at the same time uh the walking cooler they didn't know, but it was down. Uh had a bad condenser fan motor, so the guy that was helping me today. I had him go pick up: a condenser fan motor for the walk-in cooler.

He changed that and then right now he's changing the evaporator fan motor for the walk-in cooler, so we're trying to get out of here, but we're just destined to sit in traffic. Okay, we are back today to kind of finish up a few things. Let's have a look at the door looks good, looks like we got a little bit of ice formation right there, but overall the door looks good. It's shutting like it should be.

So that's nice looks like we got a little bit of ice formation down there and right up in that corner, but that's just going to be because of the wall. The wall is just not square. You know. I got two pieces of stainless here, both made out of 16 gauge, so that's gon na protect this because of the hand, carts and stuff, and these boxes they bring in.

They constantly break the heater track off, so we're gon na put that down there. That should be a pretty good and the door still shuts i'm going to bolt it down, secure it, and then this is going to be our cove piece. That's going to cover that right there and again, none of this is going to be perfect because you've still got. You know the walls separating it's coming from underneath the floor, like it's a mess but um we're just gon na get some uh hardware to be able to bolt this stuff down all right, stainless peel.

We put some grit our stainless piece. We put some grip tape on it and uh. It is what it is. I just need the silicone in the corners real quick.

We also put the cove down here, but the walls are all crooked. So there's really not much. You can do because there's ice back behind it, but at least it covers it, so the health department doesn't about the nastiness. So that's pretty much it we're gon na wrap this one up.

Uh, it's polishing, a turret they're gon na have to look into figuring out how to fix the walls i mean ideally replace. The whole box is what they need to do, but for now it is what it is. These walk-in freezer doors, uh and the walk-in cooler doors are a lot easier, typically, but the freezer doors they usually are pretty frustrating. Okay, usually because think about it.

You're there replacing a door that was damaged and the customer chose to go with a bolt-on door. Okay in this situation, the customer purchases these doors - i have no idea what they pay for them; they just get them and they ship them out um. So, majority of the time we run into headaches, it's not usually just like a oh, simple replacement, because there's something that caused the old door or the old frame or something to go bad, okay and oftentimes when it comes to freezer doors. It's been something that's been an issue for a very long time and they finally decide to address it.

Well, usually, once ice starts to form on that door frame, it's creating massive damage inside and it's usually just wreaking havoc on it, so they're, never perfect they're. Never you know just a simple, straightforward: there's, usually something going on that creates a headache. Okay, so, in this situation, they've got massive structural damage to the wall and the floors. The floors are full of water.

The walls are separating and coming apart, there's not anything. I can do the only solution is to replace the walls and replace the floor. Now you can replace just the floor and you can replace just the door frame wall in the front. You can do it, it's not something i would do um but uh.

That's a that's a general contractor for me. I just turn that one away just go ahead and call a general contractor. Let them come out and deal with it, because it's never going to be right unless you replace the whole box, it's always going to be problematic, especially on something this old. Okay, that's my experience with it, so i just do my best to make the existing door that the customer sent out work.

Okay. Now they shipped that door out. It's a custom order door. They cannot return it it's going on there right.

So yes, there was damage when i pulled off the old door, i looked at it, but that door can't go anywhere else. It's custom ordered for this particular restaurant. It's the perfect size, there's no returning it! So it's going on! Okay! So that's why i didn't just stop and say: send it back this there's, there's no repairing this one. I mean they already paid for it, it's there, so i'm putting it on okay.

I just do my best to make sure that i do everything that i can in my power to make sure that it is on there as good as possible, and it's going to last as long as possible. Now, in this situation, i don't think it's going to last any more than a year, there's already ice forming, underneath it they're gon na beat the crap out of it. It is what it is okay, but i still do my due diligence trying to install it correctly. Understand something on these bolt-on doors: tightening the bolts doesn't do crap, okay, except for ruin the door frame, those bolts when it goes up to the existing wall.

They're literally there just to hold the door in place, the the sealant or the foam or the rubber gasket. Behind the door frame is what seals it so as long as you get those bolts tight right without warping the door frame, that's it there's no more tightening it. If you go and try to ugga dugga and make that door frame contour to the wall, it's going to when you tighten those bolts, but then the door won't seal anymore, because it's got to be 100 level on the door frame on the wall and on the Door and if if one of them is not level, there's got to be something that to fix that right, but tightening the bolts doesn't solve it. I see so many times when i go in there and the bolts are just tightened up so tight and the door frame is all bent and wobbly and it's like yeah.

You know in the situation that i did. It's still not a perfect solution, but instead of over tightening the bolts, i just put foam behind the door frame so that way it makes up the discrepancies where normally people would say. Oh, i think i should silicone and silicone don't do crap to stop ice. Okay, silicone's just there to make it look pretty i've seen these things where people just go crazy with silicone, like oh i'm gon na seal it up.

That's not going to do anything silicone that has the smallest insulating value in the world. It's not it's just going to pass right through the silicone okay, so the foam is the best option you have, but even that foam is not going to be perfect because eventually it's going to get saturated with water and and then it's going to become part of The problem, okay, so the only solution for this situation is for them to replace the entire box. That's the perfect solution, or have someone come in and replace the wall assembly? You can replace just the wall around the door frame where the bolts where i was tightening those bolts or the locks in when you undo those you can pull that whole pocket assembly out. It would be a nightmare, but you could and you could replace it.

That way, whether or not they can go back to master build, because this is an old school master, build box built in the early 90s late 80s, whether or not they can still get those - i don't know, i know as of about eight or nine years ago. I was able to get a brand new door from master built uh that fit in one of these assemblies, but i don't know if they still have that information even getting that door back then was a nightmare. So i just do my best give the customer all the information - and you know just just try to install it as best as possible to try to prevent any problems. Right always treat these like someone's, going to walk behind you and critique your work, so don't give them any fuel to throw at you.

You know um a couple things about this one uh, it's so important that you do this very slowly, step by step. Don't just try to run these things in there. I've seen this particular customer hire like a maintenance company to come in and do these doors and they just turn into a disaster because they don't know what's going on. You have to be able to understand that all the ice has to be gone.

You know behind the box, all the water has to be dried up to an extent right, because i can't do anything about what's in the floor. But even what's in the floor when i was stepping on into a squirting out that stuff's gon na refreeze and lift up the floor, so it's you know you still have to understand. What's going on, but getting all the water all the dirt cleaning the area as you're going is so important, and then thinking about you know why there was damage to the old one, the the hand carts setting them on there when they go to set them up There so i put that stainless down to try to prevent that now, even that stainless is gon na get damaged over time, but it's a good thing versus what the door frame came with, which is just junk okay, so putting that stainless on there is going to Give them a little bit more life um and if they keep on top of it, and let me know when the stainless starts to get damaged, i can just go in and replace that stainless piece. You know and be done now.

I went with 16 gauge on the stainless. That was a little bit thick, but i wanted to go thicker, but i can't because there's a door heater underneath that stainless steel and the door gasket still has to seal so um. You know you can't go too thick because then the door wouldn't shut. So there's all these little things you got to think about.

You have to understand how these doors work right. I really appreciate you guys making it to the end of the video you know um. It's so humbling to get all the support from you guys. If you haven't already, please consider checking out my website hvacr hvacrvideos.com.

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There's links in the show notes to all that information. Remember that i try to go live monday, evenings 5 p.m, pacific on youtube. On my channel to do a q, a live stream as long as i can get off work in time, and then i also go live on the hvac overtime youtube channel on friday evenings about 605 pm pacific with my buddies, it's like it's like being with us When we go to hang out, you know get together uh at the bar or something like that. That's that's what it is it's just four of us.

We sit down and we're just winding down from the week talking about the previous week little things that happen. Sometimes we talk educational, sometimes majority of the time. We talk a lot of bs, it's just a nice cool hangout, but keep in mind it's uncensored. It's really raw a little different than the style on this channel.

So just bear in mind when you go check that out, but that's the hvac overtime youtube channel. Alright, i really appreciate you guys and we will catch you on the next one, it's kind of funny as i'm editing these videos. One of the things that takes me. The most time is editing out my mistakes, my crutch words, alright, so okay, guys here we are today like i constantly have to like reintroduce every single clip and i try to catch them in post as much as possible.

But it's just funny. Here's just a few of them, and i had already there was more, but i already edited out a bunch and then i realized hey. I should save these. This would be kind of silly.

So it's just funny: if you can make these videos and not have these crutch words, it makes it so much easier to edit the videos so all right, all right, so all right all right! So all right! So all right, so um.