All right, i wanted to announce that we did actually just get hats back in stock. We were out for a little while they're back they're available, there's plenty of them on there grab them. While you can uh, if you want to help to support the channel, that is a great way to do so. You can go to my website hvacrvideos.com.

Okay, it is a plain, simple hat. We also have a couple different shirt designs, different shirt, colors. We have zip up hoodies and beanies available. All of those things uh help to support the channel.

Okay, we do package ship from our own location. You know this is all us doing this. Basically, okay, so the hat is a real, simple design. It's the most popular thing: it is a black underbill, a flex fit.

You have two size options. Small medium large extra large majority of the people are going to be large extra large. It's not a super tight, fitting flex fit. I do not know the actual hat sizes, i think you can its flex fit.

Is the uh uh menu or is the the type and it's made by yupong? So i'm sure you can go to the yupong website or flexfit and look at their sizes and they'll. Give you the dimensions for um the the other places you know some people want to know that, but anyways it's a real, simple design. I purposely left my logo off of it so that way, uh it wouldn't violate uniform policies. Okay, so if you guys are interested, please check out the website hvacrvideos.com, okay, let's go and get on with the video.

This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. Hey i'm back again whether or not the videos come out in the order that you guys will understand this, but i was here friday. I was here saturday and now i'm here monday it is monday may 3rd of 2021. So i got called out friday evening for a beer walking not working had to fix that got called out, sat or saturday morning for an ac, not working.

But while i was here friday, i noticed that the walking cooler was low on charge. Um and another unit was low on charge, so i went ahead and topped off the charge. Had the manager create a work order, and here we are now monday - i'm going to try to find the leak in the beer walking and get to the bottom of that, because i don't want it to become an emergency service call so um, like friday night working On their beer walking so friday, night working on the beer walking, we had a broken pressure, control, capillary right here that uh caused a problem so went ahead and replaced this got them up and running. It's satisfied right now, so we must be good.

The walking cooler satisfied too looks like it just shut off, maybe, but when i was topping off the charge, i noticed that that entire receiver is full of oil, so we're gon na start there, but we're gon na make sure that's not our only leak, because the Evaporators very well could be leaking the pressure. Can you know it could be anywhere? So, let's dive into this one, all right, so the compressor is running. So this is perfect. We're gon na go ahead and uh shut off the breaker for the compressor, which should be system a right there and then we're going to um go ahead and start leak checking the system.

Now we already know there's a leak on that receiver, but i'm going to start there and then see how bad it is. If it's repairable, whatnot definitely looks uh oily all right, the uh the cap is loose like i can move it right with my hand. So that's not a good sign. This thing was just loose.

I didn't even have to try to undo that with a wrench or anything. So that's not good, but still we got to dive into why this thing's leaking everywhere. The packing is certainly leaking on that. Guy.

All over the place, so, let's see if it's something we can tighten, if not we'll have to replace the receiver. Alright, i was able to get some wrenches on that packing and it definitely slowed the leak down, but it's still bubbling ever so slightly right there, but we got to keep looking for leaks, so we're going to go ahead and continue on our leak search on the Rest of the system to make sure there's nothing else, going on all right, i'm using uh fieldpiece's new dr82 today um this guy is a really cool small little infrared leak. Detector does a great job has a couple different modes high, which is what they recommend you use medium low and turbo. Has a numerical display readout, it's not a parts per million, but my favorite feature is: is the lighted tip when you do come across a leak? It lights up so for someone that's hard of hearing um, this could be very beneficial.

I struggle with uh when there's a background noise, like those exhaust fans running in the background, i have a hard time hearing anything else, besides those exhaust fans. Alright, so i wanted to check this guy right here, this, the the pressure relief device to make sure that wasn't leaking. No, it's not okay, um! That's pretty much! The only place that i would be concerned about right here. Nothing we're gon na go ahead and open up the condenser and then check over by the compressor too.

Okay want to start down in here. Nothing, i'm not seeing any signs of oil. More than likely we'd have oil. If there was a leak up in here.

One of the places you always want to check that people will forget is uh on the bottom of the condenser so, like, let's say, there's a leak in the middle of the condenser. It would be dropping down into here more than likely, so you just want to run it by here. This condenser is a little dirty too one of the places that a lot of people will forget to check is dropping down from the condenser, so we just want to put it underneath the condenser do some slow passes, see if we pick up any signs of a Potential refrigerant leak this guy's dirty too. I'm not seeing anything, probably get someone out here today to clean this rack.

All right. I've got the rack shut off. Don't want to make that mistake again. You guys haven't seen the video it's the beer walking friday night service call thing had a leak, and i didn't i don't know if i didn't hear it because of it, but this had rubbed out on that panel and uh.

I didn't catch it until you know a little while after i was leak checking, but it was like right in front of my face, but it was because i had the rack running all right, so i'm not seeing anything here. I mean this thing's, not picking anything up, everything's looking fine, so we need to go downstairs to the evaporator coils now. So this one has two evaporator coils, i'm not seeing anything in here either. I already ran the leak detector across it.

No hits whatsoever the coil itself is in pretty decent shape. I'm sure it's a little dirty inside. Actually, it's not too bad, probably hard for you guys to see, but yeah yeah, not bad. Okay, we're gon na get to the other coil behind me now.

Okay, so we've got bubbles popping up right there uh, that's, certainly repairable, that's not bad, and i'm not really seeing anything else anywhere in here. Besides that, one big guy over here looks good, no bubbles like that over here, i'm not seeing anything else. So it looks like just that one leak right there, which again can be repaired. I'm just putting my probes on i'm about to turn the unit on what we're going to do is we're going to immediately pump it down and check the liquid level to see how full the receiver is for now we need some time to get them by also This suction service valve is completely deteriorated.

It's all rusted out it doesn't actuate properly we're gon na quote for a new suction service valve uh, also as part of our quote um but uh yeah. That's pretty much. It we're probed up we're ready on measure quick, we're going to uh turn it on and then front seat the king valve on the receiver and then let it pump down and then check the liquid level. All right.

I've started it up and the pump down process has begun. So what is happening is the compressor is going to continue to pump, but i've shut off the valve coming out of the receiver, the king valve going downstairs, so the compressor continues to pump until the pressure in the system gets low enough that the low pressure control Turns it off and then the refrigerant will be trapped between the high side of the compressor and the receiver, and it will not be in the low side. Okay, so that's the whole theory of a pump down so right now you can see it's coming down and then we're gon na watch where the cutout pressure is, although we are using digital. So it's a little bit harder to look at the true cutout pressure when you're using digital, because there's a little bit of lag there.

Okay, so we shut off, looks like about 9 psi and it's slowly rising, it's common for it to start up, maybe once or twice after you've pumped it down, because you've got refrigerant boiling out of the oil and the compressor. But this one looks like it's stabilized out, so now we're going to take a heat, producing device heat up the receiver and check where the liquid level is all right. You can clearly see that the liquid level is about halfway, so the liquid level is about halfway. I have no idea, if that's enough refrigerant or not being that this is an operating system.

Of course, you want to either consult the manufacturer find out what the recommended charge is or calculate it yourself by calculating the internal volume of the condenser in the receiver, using scorlin's 90-30-1 method, or you simply put the maximum amount of refrigerant in the system. Now, there's a possibility by putting the maximum amount that we might overcharge the system. So you want to be cautious with that and what i mean by overcharge it'll operate properly, because the receiver still has the storage capacity, but theoretically it's too much refrigerant right. It doesn't necessarily need that much, but in the field sometimes that's the only way.

I have no way i'm not going to bring my recovery equipment up here to recover all the gas. It's not flashing, you know so there's no way of knowing how low the charge is, so we're simply going to fill it up to the three-quarter mark, and then we know that's the maximum amount of refrigerant we can put in this system all right charging with smart Probes, i'm just using my ball valve right here, just metering, the refrigerant from the tank we're just going to add refrigerant until our receiver gets to the three-quarter level. All right all is well. I'm gon na go ahead and tighten up the the cap on the king valve um.

It's back up and running systems operational, we're gon na. Take the probes off and submit a quote to repair this bad boy uh, the customer approved our repair quote. So we're going to get going on this walk-in cooler. So to recap, we are going to be changing a leaking liquid line.

Receiver, we're going to be changing a dryer and a sight glass we're going to be changing this roto lock valve right here and then we're also going to be repairing a refrigerant leak down at the evaporator. So this place is crazy because i had a tech come here last week and clean the rack clean, the evaporators. We used chemical and everything and the thing's already plugged again - and we get this pollen in this lint here and it's nuts but anyways we're operational. So uh, i'm sorry we're gon na get started on recovering right now.

Okay, uh recovery machines, hooked up we're ready to go scale zeroed out we're opened up. I'm just gon na hit this guy right here, we're a vacuum down cylinder. So it's sucking in all the gas that it can and then we're gon na go ahead and turn this guy on. It's got the slow ramp up and we're sucking the gas out.

Now, i'm weighing it as we're sucking it out, while i'm waiting, i'm gon na start sanding and prepping, and everything whenever you're doing these roto roto-lock valves always loosen the packing. And someone pointed something out in my comments that you want to make sure you tighten up the packing too. Sometimes i stay stuff, assuming people have common sense, but you loosen the packing to actuate the valve. But then you tighten the packing um.

If you leave the packing loose when you're doing your evacuation and stuff like that, it's going to leak from there. So but anyway, so you loosen the packing and you mid-seat the valve. You never want the valve in one direction or the other. You want it in the middle because, when you braise this in it'll, get hot and it'll warp the valve and the the plunger will get stuck i've had that happen before obviously you're going to clean everything you can i'm not a fan of unsweating on silver solder.

That's a dissimilar metal steel to copper, so that is going to be silver solder and i don't like unsweating silver solder, but in this situation we're probably going to have to unless i want to re-pipe a bunch of stuff, so we'll just unsweat that so you got To get it really really clean and yeah we're just kind of getting ready, we're almost done with the evacuation. Remember this does have refrigerant leaks in it, so we don't want it to pull into a vacuum, so we'll shut off, probably about one psi or so all right. So i use this little die grinder whatever you want to call this with the dremel fitting on it to clean this guy up real good, nice and good. So that way we can braise on it and be pretty confident we're going to be okay.

All right, i got that guy sweat in it should be nice and good got a big old fat bead on it. So we're gon na jump upstairs now over here. Put that right there so to take the rotolog gasket out so that way, uh it doesn't melt in there and then we'll put a new one in when we're all done. But we don't want anything in there right now, yeah perfect! It's not going to be the easiest thing in the world to sweat in you got ta make sure this is nice and clean outside and in man.

This really looks like a pain to braise wondering if it'll be easier, just to put a fitting there. Okay, so i'm gon na try to anneal and bend this so we've got nitrogen flowing from the other side, we're gon na heat it to cherry red, rapidly cool it so careful, because the towel will transfer the heat really quick, okay, okay, the pipe is annealed and Bent because it's hard drawn, you can't bend it with a regular tubing bender and it did a nice good job, no cracking no anything. Now the question is: can i make this cut quick enough to still go in the valve and then make a swage right here? We'll have to anneal and swage it here once we figure out where it needs to be cut, i'm going to try to do all the brazing at once, so we got to get this receiver out. Unfortunately, it's bolted from underneath and there's no way to get your hands under there to get to the net.

I've done a bunch of these, so we're gon na break it off. Basically, i got a big sawzall blade, we'll cut it from underneath. So, okay, we got it out the new one. We got a bracket for it, so we're gon na get the receiver set up locked in and then we'll do all the brazing at once.

Okay, this is not ideal. We're going to do this one first and there's not really a good way to put any heat blocking compound on there. So we're just going to set this right there and then we'll do our best to cool it down once we get it sweat on, hopefully we're using 56 silver solder on this guy. It's not ideal to cool it, but we're worried about sensitive components.

So we have to cool it. I also uh increased the size of my tip to a number two for this, because i want high heat fast. I think i have enough solder on there yeah. It's not the prettiest thing: ain't gon na win a beauty contest, but it'll work.

I'm not going all the way around. It's sucking up into the fitting yeah, so i got to fill a little bit better on the top, because i used the swage tool and it didn't make a very good swage, all right, we're all sweat in everything's good. We got to tighten up the flare nuts, then we'll do a pressure test and uh get the vacuum on it. I put a new teflon o-ring, put a little bit of nylog on it and then also put nylon on the nut.

So that way, it spins freely we're going to tighten that guy up and then we're going to get in there and do the same with the flare nuts. It should be good side. Glass is facing the right way, all right, so the receiver is brazed in everything's. Good, i re-piped the receiver because on the old one the service valve was on the far side and it was difficult to get to so i re-piped it so that way, the service valves on this side were bolted down, nitrogen's still flowing through.

We got this guy here, insula we'll put insulation on that we're sweating here, everything's tight, so we're ready to do a pressure test. At this point, all right we passed the pressure test uh. I opened up the gas ballast on the side right here. Turning the pump on now, this is the new 10cfm vpx7 vacuum pump.

So we're pulling the initial pull down with the ballast open and uh we've got the micron gauge over there. I need to go around and put caps on and close up all the packings now so that way they don't leak, we're getting there. The vacuum's still dropping a little bit more time, but i'm pretty confident we're gon na be good everything's looking clean just about wrapped up up here. Obviously, we still need to charge the system but see spoiler alert.

I got the new uh vito pro pack wheeler edition. So you can wheel it around i'll. Do a review video on that on my tools, channel! There's some things i like about it. There's some things i don't like about it so that'll be coming soon, but um, yeah, everything's, going good field piece! Vacuum pumps kicking ass, so this happened to me about two weeks ago too, and then i turned my scale back on and it didn't do it again, but this thing keeps losing connection with the scale, but the scale's right here the batteries are good.

So i'm going to turn this one on and it's like going back and forth between the handle. The handle has a hard time connecting okay. So now it's connected, but look at it disappeared from here and then it just keeps going back and forth like where this one zeroes out and then this one zeroes out thought about something. I wonder if it has to do with these satellite dishes pointing right there could they be getting wireless interference because it happened at the same location and then, when i used it elsewhere, i haven't had a problem with it for like a week or a week or So, but now it's like going in and out it's a trip, so i'm wondering if it's interference from the satellite dishes, all right as usual, i front seated the valve on the receiver and uh we're going to dump all the refrigerant into the receiver that we can Because i like to control the flow instead of just flooding the system with refrigerant i like to dump as much as i can into there, so we're going to let it dump and then we'll start it up all right.

We are running now compressor just turned on uh side glass is clear: um yeah, everything's, looking good, we still got ta uh, it's got ta pull down because it's probably like 45 degrees in the box right now and we still got more gas to put into it Too there we go so now, my liquid level's right here, the three-quarter mark. You can fill with your hands too, so yeah we're good uh. Just like i did when i fixed this one. This is the beer walk and i marked the liquid level.

I marked this one too: 18 pounds 404 a pump down liquid level. So that way, the next guy knows that i left it there and uh yeah. So we're gon na watch the unit come down and clean up the rest of our stuff. All right we're all put together.

I just insulated that little section, real, quick, everything's, good sight glass is perfectly we're wrapping it up. All right box is down to temperature. It's at 39 degrees right now get the coil back together, everything's cool, so we are done. This video started as a service call on their beer walk and, like i mentioned in the beginning of the video, you know we had the service call and because i don't go into my calls with blinders on.

I noticed that while i was working on the beer walk-in, the walk-in cooler was also flashing and i went ahead and topped off the charge, brought it to the customer's attention and had them make a work order. So that way i could come back and try to find the refrigerant leak. Okay, so in the video you see that i did go back and find the refrigerant leak, but i didn't just stop at the obvious. It's all about the big picture, guys, okay, so we knew that the receiver was leaking, obviously because it was covered in oil.

But we looked past that okay, the suction service valve, was really rotted out and hard to actuate the stem. So we went ahead and quoted to replace that a receiver and i found a leak down at one of the evaporator coils and was able to braise that leak and fix it up. Now we also again paying attention to everything i had a technician come out and clean the condenser and clean both of the evaporator coils, especially coming out of this craziness with covet and all that stuff. You know restaurants had been holding back on preventative maintenance and cleaning, and things like that, so we're starting to notice there's a lot of stuff that needs to be cleaned and it's really easy to overlook that stuff.

You come in. You find it low on charge. You put gas in it, you walk away, but it's like hey are the coils cleaned. You know you really got to get in there.

Now these units have space saver. The really low profile ceiling mounted space, saver, coils and those ones have a reverse airflow pattern. So it sucks in through the fan, motors and blows out of the coil, so a normal person that doesn't quite understand how those evaporative coils work might come in and look at the coil, because the outside is actually the discharge side of the coil. The inside that you cannot see very well is where the return air goes, so it gets dirty on the inside, so you really got to get in there and look at them with a flashlight okay.

So we had a few issues when we were doing the repair work um, one being that the receiver had a bolt on the bottom of it and i couldn't get to it. Okay, i work on a lot of these kyrak refrigeration racks, there's, probably six seven. Eight of them, or something like that that i service, so it's really common to have the receiver start to fail, and i run into this issue and that's why i have it's: a six by six uh galvanized steel bracket that i have made by a fabrication shop And i keep them in stock because we go through them quite often, so i know some people say that they use unistrut and stuff like that to mount the receivers. I like the look of the the 6x6 brackets.

It's it's not very expensive and it just kind of goes with my style of doing things. So we went ahead and took care of the receiver. I went ahead and re-piped it because again i'm trying to think about the next guy, i'm hoping that myself is the next guy. But maybe if it's not - i don't know, but you know i try to think about the next guy and i i ended up twisting the receiver around re-piping the refrigeration lines, to make it easier to access.

So that way i wasn't having to fight to get back there and actuate the king valve. You know so it's those little things that i always try to do. I know i get a lot of questions about it. I like to use flare, mechanical dryers and sight glasses, okay, a lot of people don't like flares and that's fine.

Okay, i typically don't use the flares down in the evaporator. I don't use them usually on anything else in the system, except for, like maybe a pressure control, but i love using them on the dryers, because i don't like to do any more work than i have to so. For me, whenever we're fixing reaching coolers walking coolers walking freezers, that kind of stuff majority of the time, i find that the problem and leaks tend to be down in the evaporator sections. Okay with that being said, if i have a flare dryer on the roof and i'm fixing a leak down at the evaporator, which is what i tend to do more so than up on the roof, i wouldn't have to bring my torches up onto the roof.

I would just bring my vacuum pump and my service gauges and some tools, and i would mechanically change the dryer every time we open up the system. So that's the whole purpose of using flare, dryers um, i'm confident in my ability to make a flare nut and properly torque it down. Okay, i do not use a torque wrench. I really have been thinking about it more and more, and i probably need to start using that because of course i can set a good example uh.

I have learned how tight a flare needs to be by making mistakes by having a lot of flares leaking. Okay to the point that early in my career, i hated flares because they would always leak well. My problem with the flares that i found was that i was actually over tightening them. I would just give it so many ugga duggas and then just give it five more.

You know like oh my gosh, i'm gon na get that thing so tight and what i actually found. At least this is my opinion. Okay, i don't know this to be science, but what i think was happening and why i had so many leaks was because, when you over tightened over time that flare nut would back off because it was over torqued and it would cause the leaks where it would Just make me think that i keep having to tighten it down tighter and tighter and tighter, but then eventually it would flex and and twist its way back off. So i've learned to not go so tight but to find that perfect balance.

You know in that perfect torque setting, so i am going to uh try to look into getting a legit torque wrench um. If you guys have any suggestions. Please leave me some feedback down in the youtube comments. Send me an email to hvacr videos, gmail.com, i'm not looking for some silly stupid thing.

I want something, that's functional, you know that doesn't have a lot of fittings and different things like that. I don't know if it exists or not, but i would like to do that to try to set a better example, but i'm confident in my ability to not use a torque wrench okay, but it is what it is right. But it's just because i've made a lot of mistakes, so we flared the dryer in we went ahead and i did run into some problems putting in the suction service valve okay, because it is a roto-lock valve and it had dissimilar metals. It was a little bit awkward to try to find the uh, i'm sorry to to try to get the existing refrigeration line to fit back into it, because we had to unsweat the old valve.

So i went ahead and annealed the copper made a bend on it and went ahead and put fresh virgin copper into the the suction service valve, which made it a lot easier to braise. Okay. So it is what it is. I really really appreciate you guys making it to the end of the video.

If you haven't already. I already said it in the beginning. Please check out my website hvacres.com i did mention in the beginning. We just got hats back in stock.

I got them sitting back up there on the shelf, so uh you can help to support the channel by checking out the website again: hvacr videos.com, hats, shirts, beanies, all that good stuff. Okay, i really really appreciate you if you guys have any comments or feedback. Please leave it down in the youtube comments. You can also send me an email to hvacrvideos.com.

Remember that i usually address the comments on my live stream. On monday evening, 5 pm pacific work permitting as long as i can get off work, i usually kind of consolidate all the questions and then answer the more popular ones on the live stream, because i actually do get a lot of repetitive questions. So i find it easier to answer them on the live streams. I also go live with the hvac overtime crew on friday evenings uh 605 pm pacific time, where we just kind of talk, hang out talk about the week this week i was able to make the show, because there's been a few that i haven't and we had A really good conversation about mental health and depression and different stuff, like that it was, it was cool.

You know it's one of those things where um, i don't think guys talk about it enough. People in general talk about it enough, so we had a good conversation. So definitely go check that out. If you haven't already that's it and we will catch you on the next one.

Okay.