This was a new customer that called about their reach in cooler not working properly, when I arrived I immediately heard the click of death.
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This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition all right. This is a new customer and we've got a reach and they're saying that's not working um. I do not know all the symptoms, because i wasn't given much information. All i know is that they turned it off: um, okay, so i'm just gon na turn it on and we're gon na go through this thing.
I know it was temping high. That's it so check everything out uh. This looks like a glass tender knock off kind of, and i heard the click of death from the compressor yeah. This definitely looks like a glass tender knockoff.
That's really interesting! I wonder if glass dinner doesn't make their own regions crown new jersey. This is like the same design of a glass tinder huh all right, uh, like i said, i heard the click of death. I hear the compressor going on and off on overload, so we're going to open that up and see okay, um compressor's. Turning on and off, i can tell the capacitor is going apart from here: uh we're going gon na get this guy out looks like a couple screws.
You can see fluid in there. I could see like the white stuff around the outside of the capacitor before i opened it, but yeah the fluid capacitor is bad for sure, but we're gon na test it and uh. I probably have a temporary one to put on there just to make sure the compressor starts up so we'll see yeah, that's not good. Is it the dielectric fluid or whatever they put in there? Whatever type of oil yeah? That's interesting, zero! Microfarads! That's not a shock! So this guy's dead in the water, whether or not it's just a start, capacitor or not, we'll find out.
But again i changed starting components as a set, but um i'm gon na see. If i have a turbo start, capacitor that'll get me going. Let's go see. Amrad actually makes a universal start capacitor, just like the turbo 200 run cap.
They make a turbolytic 50, which is a universal motor start capacitor. This thing is awesome for the refrigeration guys, as you can see, i don't leave it at the customer's side, i'll reuse, it because essentially it's it's. My hermetic compressor analyzer, because i can test continuity on the windings. If that's good, i can test a relay by checking voltage and i can throw a universal cap on there and if i can get it running, then i'll order starting components.
But these things are awesome. So, let's see, if uh, if i can get this thing running, see what happens it's temporarily just sitting back there wouldn't leave it like that. Compressor started we're gon na. Let it run for a bit make sure that it brings the box down to temperature and now we'll make some phone calls and see.
If we can find the factory starting components, there still could be something else wrong with the unit, but we know we had a bad start cap, so we're gon na. Let it run for a little while and then see where it gets us. This thing came down to temp super fast. I want to say 20 minutes, 25 minutes at the most it's already at 33 degrees um. So i'm gon na go ahead and go pick up new starting components. They actually have them locally to me. So get those and then we'll let it keep running with the temporary capacitor on there until i get back these things can be a chore to get off, but okay, so you want to pay attention to the wiring like the way it's running, because it all has To go back in the same place for everything to fit properly in here, i've got all factory starting components, so we're gon na pop these guys in and test everything after that. Well, if i didn't screw anything up, it'll be a miracle, because those things are so flipping tight, um i've got an amp clamp.
I'm gon na have to amp the entire condensing unit. So that'll tell me at least something: let's turn it on and hope it don't blow up in my face, i'm assuming that means d for us. So let's turn that off. Okay.
I hope i turned it off. Let's see if this guy turns on 5.2 amps, it says, run load for the compressor alone is 5.8, not including the condenser fan motor. So i think we're okay, i'm gon na rob. Let me check the refrigerant amount.
I think i'm gon na probe up with the field piece probes depending on the refrigerant charge on this unit, so i just shut the door. Uh looks like it's in a time delay right now we're going to watch this guy turn on i probed up. It does take 134a, it's an expansion valve system, we're going to let it start up and then check. I'm i'm pretty confident, everything's good, though the only thing that concerns me was the compressor was running really hot on the head, but sometimes on these little guys.
They do that we're not over amping, so let's just see what the refrigerant pressure should be. I don't i haven't talked to the manufacturer, but i'm just going to go with about 25 degrees over condensing temp um or you know, the condensing temp should be 25 degrees. Over ambien is my rule of thumb. Let's see if that's accurate on this guy, no more than 30 degrees um.
I don't think this is a super efficient system. Although this one looks like it was manufactured in 2013 - probably so we will see it should kick on here any minute as soon as the time delay clicks out. So we just kicked on. Let's see what happens with our refrigerant pressures, i am going to warn the customer too that whenever i change starting components - and i can't find a reason - i always warn them that there's potential that there could be compressor damage.
The condenser was a little bit dirty when i got here but not plugged, but i always warn them about potential compressor damage. I'm not worried about measurefix targets, the condensing temp over ambient, it's kind of accurate, but i'm not worried about the suction target. I'm more concerned about my evaporator temperature, so my box temp is right. Now see my vap, my evaporator td's 17 degrees.
I don't think that's horrendous. My condenser td is right at 30.. I think we're. Okay, i mean 5.2 amps. I think we're going to give them the all clear and just tell them to keep an eye on it. Not seeing anything else. That's telling me i should do anything um, let's go back. Instead of curiosity, the scene has a receiver.
So i'm curious: yesterday i've got about five degrees, sub cooling, you know, checking sub cooling with the receiver is always difficult on the drain line coming out of the condenser. Usually, if i see at least three degrees sub cooling, i'm usually a happy camper. This unit doesn't have a sight glass, so without calling the manufacturer, i'm not going to know what kind of refrigerant pressures they want, but i'm thinking we're probably somewhat okay, we're just about to satisfy so all right, we're going to tell them to keep an eye on It all right from the beginning, um. I showed that the start capacitor had failed.
Okay, i could see it right when i opened it up. Usually, when you have these small hermetically sealed compressors, they do lose starting components, a lot. What happens on them? Is they short cycle uh oftentimes uh? Maybe the the customer doesn't keep the condenser clean or they're opening and closing the box a lot who knows there's a lot of things that that cause the starting components to fail? Sometimes it could be compressor damage too. In my opinion, okay, that's just things that i've noticed is usually you know, sometimes if you have a high failure rate on starting components.
Typically, you have issues with the compressor, but you know we personally have never changed these before and they were factory components in there. So, who knows? Okay, but whenever i change starting components, i change all three as a set, preferably okay, so the start capacitor the current relay and or potential relay depending on the system. If it has a run cap. I change the run cap and i change the thermal overload or the clicks on relay okay or clicks on whatever you want to call it personally, the the components themselves are extremely cheap and if you're in there it it's just my opinion, i just change them all.
Okay, that's just the way that i do things um, it's not like. I'm ripping the customer off or anything, i'm doing them a service, and i always let them know you know we're gon na change, all three starting components, because we change them as a set. That kind of stuff - okay, that's my personal preference! I'm not saying that your hack, if you don't do that for all, i know you guys, probably think i'm a hack, but it is what it is. Okay, that's just how we operate here.
So we change all the starting components once i did that um everything was working. Okay, now i also tested the system using my universal start, capacitor, just to make sure that it would run now, as i was editing the video of course, i look at them and i think okay, you know it probably would have been a good idea to throw An amp clamp on there when i was testing it just to see if we were having any funky issues, but regardless we got it going and everything was fine. Okay, i made the decision to go and put my service gauges on there uh. I didn't you know. I was kind of iffy whether or not i needed to do that and to be honest with you, what pushed me over the edge was that this was a new customer and um. I wasn't very familiar with them and maybe the trust level that they have with me just wasn't quite there. Okay, so i felt the need to go ahead and put service gauges on there, even though the box was coming down to temp really fast. I just did okay, and once i did you know again, i didn't expect to see anything really strange.
Okay, i made an assumption because i didn't talk to the manufacturer of what i thought. The refrigerant pressure should be okay, there's no set in stone number here. Okay and you can't go by 10 degrees, sub cooling. You know eight degrees super whatever you.
You can't go by a set number every single time. Okay, you just can't all right uh. It's an expansion valve system with the receiver you're not going to run 10 degrees, sub cooling, all the time. Okay, you know the manufacturers, they do all kinds of weird things: for instance, okay, uh, the suction line is ran with the liquid line in the same piece of insulation and it's taped together.
So before it goes through the insulation. The suction line is taped to the liquid line, so for those people you know, especially on capillary tube systems. That say, oh, my gosh you got to have this perfect superheat coming back or whatever that number is, is not going to be as accurate as you think. It is if it's wrapped in the same insulation, because it's acting as a sub cooler, essentially right and the suction lines, absorbing the heat from the liquid line, making the box more efficient.
Also on these boxes, oftentimes they have a hot gas condensate loop. So the discharge line coming out of the compressor goes directly into the drain pan and it creates a condensate loop for the condensation that comes off the evaporator to evaporate it. Now, if you have water in that pan, it's going to affect the system operation, your refrigerant pressures are going to change. Okay, theoretically, you're dropping the discharge temp.
Therefore, theoretically you're going to drop the liquid line temp, you know things everything's going to change, so you can't just assume that everything's going to be this perfect number on these regions. Now, of course, i always use my vitals as a guideline. You know i'm always looking for some sub cooling with a receiver, not necessarily 10. I'm always looking for.
You know mediocre super superheat. I don't want extremely low superheat coming back to the compressor, because that's an indication of flooding um, but i don't have a set number in my head. Okay, i just kind of use my senses, i walk up. I feel things i feel the compressor. I check the current draw. I look at the refrigerant pressures. Look at the evaporator pressure. Look at the condensing temperature! Typically, i don't ever want to see anything over a condensing temp that is 30 degrees over the ambient temperature.
Okay, don't ever want to see that typically, so i um you know, i make assumptions uh what i call an educated guest with these things. Okay, i don't always call the manufacturer um this one. I wouldn't have gotten a hold of them, because this was right. Actually, this is an older video, but this was right at the beginning of the covet shutdown.
So i wasn't going to get ahold of anybody all right now, um for the record. This box has been running fine for months now and never had a complaint from the customer, but regardless um always try to take a step back. You know look at everything, especially on the new customers: okay, because that trust level isn't quite there yet um and there's nothing worse than a callback right, callbacks happen, but there's nothing worse than you know you. You want to try to eliminate that stuff.
So i'm looking at everything, okay, so i watch this box satisfy multiple times. I didn't see any other reason anything to concern me. I did look at the receptacle behind the box. I did measure the voltage coming into the box.
I know i didn't show it on the video we had accurate voltage coming in. I didn't see any other issues, so i told the customer to keep an eye on it and that's where we're at okay, i'm not a perfect tech. I make all kinds of mistakes. I'm always interested in your guys's feedback.
Leave me some feedback down in the comments. Let me know what you think: how would you have done it differently? Would you have just simply thrown a sight glass on there? I have done that in the past. Okay uh. If i ever had to open the system up, you know sometimes i'll throw a side glass on there who knows, but i'm always looking for you guys feedback, good or bad.
If you guys think i'm a hack tell me i'm not going to delete your comments. The only comments i ever delete from my youtube channel is when you guys try to guess restaurant names. That's what i delete. Okay, i i won't tolerate right or wrong restaurant name guesses.
That's the only ones i delete and so long as you're, not bashing other people or just being a plain punk or anything like that. Okay, but you can tell me that i'm a hack, i don't care, that's all good. You know, because i'm always looking for feedback. If you have advice for me, give it to me, you know i'm always looking to learn um.
I really really appreciate you guys making it all the way to the end of the video for those that do. Thank you so very much if you're interested a way to support the channel, if you guys are considering purchasing any tools, go to truetechtools.com use my offer code, big picture, one word: you'll save eight percent on your order and then i get a small commission. It helps to support the channel. You guys also can support the channel via my website hvacrvideos.com. I have merch available shirts uh hats, i'm just about to get a big hat order in this week of all the large extra large hats, so stay tuned. For that guys. Those of you that made it to the end. This is the announcement.
The hat orders theoretically well, not theoretically tentatively uh they're scheduled to be delivered wednesday evening. So after i get them, i have to inspect them, make sure there's no damage, then i'll put them up available on the website and they'll be for sale again so stay tuned for that and uh yeah. We will catch you guys, monday evening, 5 p.m. Pacific! On the hvacr videos youtube channel for my monday night, live stream work permitting, of course, and uh yeah.
That's it. We will catch you guys on the next one: okay.
I had a tech come in and check a True reach in cooler on warranty. He ended up changing that capacitor right beside the compressor. When I looked at it before he got there I noticed a funny buzzing sound coming from that capacitor. When I wiggled the wires it changed the sound and I said isn't that interesting. I had no idea that would end up being the problem. He also used a special capacitor tool like what you showed. I want to look into that. The unit was fixed under warranty so all was good and I learned a little. Thank you for the video guy.
Let's play a game: what restaurants this was
Thanks for this great information , so you could use a universal start capacitor 200 for any commercial units that not more than 3/4 hp or you could use it in any unit?
I doubt anyone thinks you're a "hack". Your quality of service is next to none in my opinion.
Your not a hack, just overthinking sometimes, your skilled dude.
Change as a set solves issues and itโs a time over material matter
Start caps are dry inside. Always. They have no oil in them like a run cap, because the intention is to only be energized for a VERY short time. Run caps have oil to help keep them cool because they are ALWAYS in the circuit. When a start cap is energized for a longer time, such as due to a failed relay that keeps the cap energized, the cap "pops" and all the dry cardboard and foil wraps come out of the plastic cylinder. The fluid you referenced is from the refrigerant port right in front of the cap. Also, it IS a good idea to change ALL start components. Why skip an easy and cheap bit of insurance? Fortunately for me, my Co has not had any restaurant work in my area for a long time. My last walk-in was summer of 2019, for a chain with a pigtailed redhead the sign. It is much better to watch someone else do it, lol. Carry on.
Krowne makes a lot of knock off stuff. They rip off T&S Brass and Fisher plumbing components all the time.
I am a super rookie technician. just from my curiosity, have you tried using the 3 in 1?
what do you think of those? what would be the Con and Pros??
thank you in advance~
Electrolytic caps are kind of bad for dying, especially in hot environments. I suspect it was probably a combination of chance and heat.
Theyโre the least reliable type of capacitor, but they are able to put quite large capacitances in a small package.
Tecumseh? That a name brand for a lawn mower
Got a deep freeze question, Danby 7.0 cubic ft. Approximately 5 years old. Generic scenario my folks come home and go to add freezer items everything is defrosted, and hot. So I read up on it as much as possible. So I start with start/run cap. I order my dad installs cap. We turn it on and I'm guessing thermo ( round 2 prong) gets warm and withen 5 seconds hear a Click and it shuts off. So in this video you explain 3 start components should I try to find those 2 other components and replace if the price is reasonable. I'm guessing thermostat is operational because compressor tries to come on. I realize it's difficult to troubleshoot. From afar, But just thought I'd ask. Or do you think compressor is seized. Service area Orleans??
I like that, changing all the starting components, thatโs similar to replacing a fuel pump in a car once you dropped the fuel tank; why not. Of course, always using common sense. Service area Ottawa??
Love your vids, really interesting and informative. Like your honesty as well, rare thing these days
Watch Mr Calrson (lab) how he tests capacitors. It appears capacitance is not everything. Although he does more in the electronics area, I like his approach.
Sounds like poor quality components to me
This had to been a night call…. your voice says you donโt want to be here rn even tho you have to be…. happy Labor Day!
What's with the 150 k bleeder across the terminals? Most caps have internal bleeders… Are you in Orleans ?
You did the right thing in replacing all the start up component , thatโs a new customer you only have a one time to cause a good impression. Besides all those components are hooked in series if one fails who knows if the other components will failed in the future. And the customer wonโt be to happy if he has to call you back after you were there fixing the same machine. I will done the same thing Are you in Kanata ?
That's not a shock as he test a dead capacitor ๐๐๐๐ผ
Hey question. You said in the video that you went to your local supplier to get your capacitor. I had my own capacitor go out on my personal home and the local place wouldn't sell me the part, even when they had it in stock. They knew i had no A/C and a 5 year old in my home in the middle of AUGUST. So I had to order it online and had to wait 5 days to get it in. I don't understand why they couldn't just sell it to me!?!?! we suffered for a few days, but on the bright side, it was way cheaper online than what local supplier wanted. Once it arrived I installed it and I was good to go.
This machine actually looked clean and hygienic.
The first video I see, where I think that I would not worry about visiting the establishment.
I had to change the start components on my old Whirlpool a few weeks ago. It was clicking like this. It's been working great so far.
Good job,well done.
Honest & educated.
Thanks to tech me sir. Service area Kanata??
I see no problem with what you did. You found the reason the compressor will not run. You proved the compressor will run. You proved the unit will come down to temperature, and you eliminated any possible other issues with the system. That's not hack work.
Unfortunately, the manufacturers that make these electrolytic capacitors use the cheapest electrolyte they can. The electrolyte changes inside the capacitor turning it into a resistor and then pops the capacitor.
Even knowing this, changing all three start components is the smartest thing to do.
By the way I enjoy your videos
Hey mate I didnโt see you check the winding resistance and why donโt you carry all purpose relay Capacitorsโs, I have had great success over many years, saving time going and buying parts.
Best quote of the video. โ0 micro F, that is not a shock.โ Pun intended?
Im an apprentice in the industrial maintenance field. I've been binge watching your videos even though its not my trade, I've learned a lot just by watching!
When you call for a service tech the first time it can be a crap shoot since there are so many unqualified and/or uninterested guys out there. The establishment owners always hope they can get a guy like you first time around. Good on you for standing behind your work. My dad was that way. Integrity.
Just curious why not put in a 3n1 and call it a day? Any reason why you went with manufacture starting components? Let me know what you guys think sorry for newbie question.
I'm just curious. I have one of those through the wall A/C units in my home. It is similar to a window unit. It runs around 28,000 BTUs. Can they be recharged? Or do I have to replace the entire wall unit?
Never seen a Turbolytic Capacitor like that! That,s so impressive to have all those values to test with !
Nice to see a capacitor with a 15k bleeder resistor installed! Safety First.
Is that a big dent in the compressor top? Nice informative video. Thank you.
I was wondering how you repaired our reach in. I was in another location and the staff couldn't explain to me the repairs. Thanks for the video. Are you in Nepean ?
As a fuel system technician, its always amazing to see how much common sense troubleshooting transcends industries. Love your videos ๐
Iโm just starting to learn the trade of hvac. What advice can you give me, what is the hardest thing to learn? Please respond ๐๐
The further along Iโm going in school the more Iโm picking up and learning from you. Awesome content! Love the wrap up chat after the video. Thanks keep it up!
Heard you mention the condenser loop in the drain pan curious have you or anyone else here seen issues with the loop corroding out And splitting under pressure as the manufacturer seems to think a pissy heatshrink sleeve is sufficient protection.
Iโve had 2 now in the same shop go this way the first older fridge I condemned as it would have filled the system with water as the loop is split under 4โ of water the compressor would have been chugging water through every time it stopped on thermal overload as the system had nil charge.
It seems like a terrible idea really I suggested to the customer I could run all the drains out into a floor waste and do away with the drain pans altogether.
Do you ever use evaporator combs to fix bent fins? Are you in Ottawa ?
ALL your video is awesome. I learn a lot from you. Thank so much
You are no hack!!! You are one of the best techs (from HVAC to IT) that I've ever seen.
Is nice seeing people diagnose problems, that aren't just parts replacers
People will always complain about something it's the law of nature unfortunately
hi do you plan to ship merch to Europe ? I'm in need of a hat. Mine is surprisingly wrecked dunno why ๐ I Service area Barrhaven??
134a with an expansion valve
It's almost like a car A/C, but inside a box
Fascinating….
Personally, as a non HVAC tech? I don't think I would have done anything different, and you are right about keeping an eye on it. I had a fridge kick the bucket on me one day. Turns out it had a recall IIRC on the start cap and thermal breaker. Ordered a kit and replaced the parts that had died in it. It served me for about I wanna say 2 or 3 years after we had moved into the house we had attempted to buy. Issues had arose with it and we just had to retire it.