All right, I just wanted to say a lot of people have been asking and we finally finished everything and the website is launched. It is HVAC our videos, calm, go check it out. Merch is available. All those shirts and all those hats that have been sitting behind me forever are finally on there everything's set up.

So let me know what you guys think and we're gon na get on with the video right now. This video is brought to you by Sport'ln quality, integrity and tradition, so yesterday that the beer walk-in was temping high, but it's interesting because I came in today and it's in the 40s - it's not doing too bad in here. So they said yesterday was damn near 50 degrees. In here I will say that I do not like those thermostats, that is a temperature controller, but not gon na change it just because so alright, well we're gon na dive into this one and see what we can figure out.

I've brought the tools that I needed. I'm gon na get evaporator superheat air temperature they're just clicked on right. Now, let's see what the box temp is that'll tell me a lot. It says the box.

Temp is 50 degrees, but I don't know if that's accurate, so well. Uh we'll leave that right there, because I just brought that in here, so we got to give it a minute: we're gon na open up this evaporator section and hope that there's a superheat port and you get on the suction line right there. Well, we aren't so lucky there isn't a super deport so we'll just have to get refrigerant pressure on the roof and then we'll just get a suction line. Temperature clamp down here.

It's not a very long line set run. So what you have to be careful about doing pressure up there and temperature down here is, if you have a long line, set run or a lot of traps. If you have a pressure, drop it'll, give you incorrect readings, but this one literally is like a 25-foot line so run. So I can't see there being a pressure differential, a measurable pressure differential.

You have to know that there could there's a potential for a pressure differential. You can't just put your gauges on there and assume that everything is correct. You know I came up here and the unit was running, so I'm just getting all my probes out, and I noticed that the tone of the unit is really quiet like it's pumping down. Just something you kind of recognize and yeah: this guy is starting to pump down right now, but look at where at zero psi and we're not shutting off.

So it kind of seems like the low pressure controls sticking a little bit and then let's go over here to look at my box down my box. Temp is 38 degrees. That's a little bit high to be satisfied at so we're just gon na. Let it run its course and see what happens and then we're gon na see where it turns back on we're just gon na sit here and watch it, but yeah that low pressure control is definitely sticking, though, because it's sitting there running at zero psi and I Guarantee, if I walked over here and tap this low pressure controller, quite a shot right off there, you go, so we may need to make an adjustment to that low pressure control, but we're definitely gon na watch this guy and see what temperature it turns back on.

At that's interesting shouldn't I come on so soon and literally came up like a half a degree. That's really interesting! I'm gon na do a pump down test on this guy, see where the low-pressure control actually shuts out at two. I just front seated the suction service valve and what that does is that stops the refrigerant flow basically and doesn't allow it to flow through the valve, so we're just testing from this point inside the compressor, so there's still pressure on this side of the valve. Well, it's not pulling into a vacuum, which kind of indicates that it could be weak.

Now something important to remember manufacturers these days, don't really recommend that you do a pump down test like this anymore. This was a very common test on semi-hermetic compressors. I have to say this all the time, so this is just another tool: I'm not going to diagnose solely off of the fact that it won't pull down past zero, but on the plus side it won't pull down pass zero, but it's also not rising, which indicates That we're not leaking through the read, so that's a good sign, but okay, so we still don't know exactly what's going on here, I made an adjustment to the pressure control and got it to actually shut off in the positive. I might even adjust a little bit higher to get it to shut off about five psi.

All that I did over here was take this pressure control and this one. Basically, if you follow the instructions, the the low event is the high event, the differential. So the high event is the cut in the differential subtracted from the cut in equals. The cut out.

So this one approximate and you can never use these bars to be 100 % accurate. But this one approximately should be cutting in about 30 psi and then approximately cut. Now you know at about 10 psi. So if you subtract 30 from or 20 from 30, it's about 10 psi, but it's a little inaccurate.

But these pressure controls have never been known to be highly highly accurate, so we're gon na drop that down a little bit more and see where we get our cut in and cut out now. Another thing we want to talk about is this compressor contactor again with the whole big picture thing you see this up, this white powder looking stuff right there, pretty good odds that this contactor is starting to fail, meaning that the contacts are starting to get pitted and Full of sand, if you notice I'm in a sandy environment right now, there's a lot of sand right here, it's very common, so we really have to pay attention to these controls and contactors and stuff because they get inundated with sand and that causes issues. I'm noticing that after watching it cycle a couple times the cut in and cut out temperature, the differential is not big enough. Basically just turned on right now it just turned off at 37 and it just turned on at thirty.

Eight point: nine! That's too close! I don't like it so I'm gon na be changing that controller, because I already don't like that controller. So here's an excuse for me to get rid of it and put a kita therm in there probably, but I still don't know what caused their high temp issue yesterday. We're still digging into that so making my adjustment has gotten the pressure control to cut out at five point five now, which I like much better. So that's good, so I made an adjustment to the pressure.

Control will tell them to keep an eye on it. The cutting and cut out temperature is kind of bothering me, but the other thing is is that they called me and said it was like in the 50s yesterday and I'm not seeing that right now, the temperature controller is maintained in a really tight differential, which I Don't like, but I'm not seeing something that would cause it to go, really high intent. I see this time clock right here and I marked it it's interesting. I'm gon na be getting rid of that time.

Clock anyways because I'm gon na change the temp control and put a key to therm, temp plus defrost in there and that'll, eliminate that. But I just don't like that, whatever the problem is isn't jumping out. In my face I mean, I know the control is an issue. I don't like that tight differential, but that's not what at least it's not proving itself to me that that's what was causing a 50-degree box temp yesterday and it's not I stuff, I killed the power to this guy.

I confirmed it's off so we're gon na replace this contactor real, quick and then, while I'm in there, I'm gon na go ahead and take the defrost clock out of the picture, because I am going to replace the temperature controller too. So we're looking at the contactor. I'm not seeing a huge voltage drop, but we're gon na go ahead and replace it and take a look at the differences. This is an easy one in that that gave me all this room, so I'm able to put this guy on we'll flip this guy around.

So that way, the writing is correct and then I'll just do a wire for wire. Super simple - and this is the new contactor - definitely looks better to me all right, we're back on and running so we're gon na finish up with changing the temp control, and I forgot to remove this real quick. Now I got the defrost clock out. It's all wired in just to turn on and off via a low pressure controls up here now, so I'm gon na power this guy back on and then we'll have to get down and change that thermostat that evaporator superheat is pretty high too.

So, while I'm putting this temp control together right here, I'm going to make an adjustment on that and let it stabilize I'll check this out. This thing is leaking from the stem. It's all old-school valve to it's time to replace one thing after another right, but no matter what even trying to adjust it. My super he wallets because I just lost pressure, but my super heat never changed.

It's not 86 degrees right now, though, but my pressure probe upstairs just lost pressure, her loss connection, but yeah that valve is leaking right there. So we're gon na have to change that valve too. I'm gon na finish: changing the tech control them so what's happening is we're connecting and we're disconnecting because I'm in the walk-in, so it loses it for a second. Then it reconnects, but no matter all the.

I think I adjusted that superheat spring, like eight turns out, and it's still sitting at 27, so nothing but right now we disconnected again so but yeah I'll, give it a pump down a little sighs the valve and we'll replace it. But, like I said, I'm going to finish with that 10 control. First, let's hope that it doesn't blow up in my face. Thirty-Five compressor starts per hour.

That's a lockout! We don't want that. Our time, delay and defrost per day we're going to do 16, frost a day, defrost time 15 minutes. Sound thing else is good. It's not to wait for it to click on solenoid should open.

We need to see it satisfied now front seated the king valve on the receiver. I've still got the pressure probe on the high side, so we can see actual pressure assets pumping down because where I had it, it was on the other side of the king valve. So you wouldn't seen high pressure. We want to make sure this units not overcharged while we're trying to pump it down pump it down.

I'm gon na swap out that txb then we'll come up and change this dryer. Alright, I performed a little hack here. The units satisfied - okay and I front seated this suction service valve. So what that did was that stopped the refrigerant flow into the compressor or any flow, so the compressors crankcase, with all the oil in it, is shut off and it has pressure in it still.

Okay, then, after I front seated that I pulled the Schrader on the suction filter dryer, so now I just exposed the line set. Okay, so I can braise the expansion valve in and never open the compressor to atmosphere. It's just gon na make the evacuation go that much faster, because now I'm only going to be evacuating basically to this point right here from here all the way down to the liquid line up to the king valve, where it's shut off too. So we're only evacuating the line set.

The evaporator downstairs in the expansion valve okay, see why I did that just to save myself some headache. So the compressors oil has never been exposed to atmosphere and it's very dry outside I'm not going to have to worry about changing the suction line, filter dryer so long as it doesn't have a pressure differential across it, and so all right. I've got my beat QK here. This unit requires a one-ton valve, so there's a 404 a medium temp, these a balance port half to one ton.

It's going to be a blue cartridge and then I'm going to pick my body we're going to use a medium temperature power head s, BQE body and bam blue cartridge right here. We're going to get this guy bill got some oil, build it up real, quick and then get this guy slapped in all right. I got lots of messes to clean up, but they got the vacuum rate cooked up all the way down. So I'll open up the gas ballast turn this guy on, let it rip and I'm gon na start cleaning up messes going downstairs.

Insulating, not sensing bulb as soon as this hits. Fifteen hundred thousand microns all closed down. Gasps ballast on the machine, these bozos that installed this coil you know 20 years ago, installed the p-trap right there with no good places with the sensing bolt. So it's making pretty good contact.

I made sure I cinched it down and I'm gon na insulate. It really well, but it is not a perfect situation here, so it's kind of sticking off. I wish it would be better, but there's not really much better to do I mean I can mount it on the riser, but I think it'll be okay right here. This sucks, though you know like this, is why people don't think about us when you know they're doing installations, they did it this way, so they could get that perfect.

Look, but then there's no room to mount the sensible dumbasses check out that superheat 11 degrees. It's perfect I keep losing and connecting on the high side just because I'm in the walk-in box, but Spanish mouth looks good. It's feeding properly nice and clean I'm a happy camper, so LOX temp is almost down to temps at about 44 degrees, we're gon na watch. It satisfy, but yeah we're gon na call this one good by the way that expansion of was a 2-ton expansion of it's very common on these old coils when they used to do installs, especially from the mid 90s before everything was oversized dramatically over size.

So this expansion valve now is a one-ton valve. This is a I think. It's just 7,000 BT of coil or just under 7,000 BT, not pretty well yeah. 6,200.

Bt is a one-time balance board on here. It's a half to one time yeah. This is good. We're still running even at the higher than normal box temp right now we're at 10 degrees citrine, so we're doing good.

The customer had called me on this one saying that their beer Walken was down, but they called me the evening before and they actually said hey, you know what we don't want to pay overtime go. I didn't come out the next morning. This location is a almost two hours away from my shop, so I was happy for that because I didn't want to go out there. You know at nine o'clock at night, the previous night, but so I ended up going back out the next day and I was a little bit concerned because when I got in there it was like 41 42 degrees in there, and it was like you know they Were telling me it was really high in temp and I was like okay, but when they told me like in the 50s, usually if it's in the 50s, it's iced up.

So the first thing I did when I walked in is, I noticed it wasn't iced up, but it wasn't as warm as I thought it was gon na be so going through everything I never actually found the one cause that jumped out in my face. That said, this is why this box was, at 50 degrees, never happened, but just looking at everything, I was able to come up with some issues that I had first off the temperature controller. I noticed that differential was way too tight. I don't like running a tight differential on the temperature controller that much because I would stand up there in a 10 minute period and that compressor was turning on and off on and off.

You know the heat gain inside that walk-in cooler is quite high, even though it's insulated, they still have a lot of heat going in there, so it was turning on and off way too many times, okay, but just slowly looking at everything, even though I there's that Coke nose, even though you know I I didn't, find anything jumping out at me. I still just started from scratch and worked my way through it, so I had that in the back of my mind, I didn't like the temp control. Then I found that the pressure control was sticking. Okay, that's another thing, you know, and then it was just working my way through, as I was going through the system when I got done with the temperature controller, I noticed that my super heat was really high, and so I tried cranking on that Valve.

You know two turns like two quarter turns nothing. Then I tried a little bit more nothing so then. Finally, I backed it out like another four turns, so all together, I think, was like eight turns. I lowered that superheat spring nothing to try to bring the superheat down and at the same time I knew, though, that something was up because it was pissing gas out of the the adjustment stem you know, so something was up there, so I went ahead and pumped The system down changed the expansion and then come to find out that the expansion valve was a 2-ton expansion valve and that system needed basically a 3/4 ton really is what it needed.

You know so we had a way oversized valve, which still doesn't I mean you would think. I don't know it's a whole mess, but it's very common to find oversized valves on older equipment, because in the past, what they would do is they would put in oversized valve and and they would just crank it way down. You know adjust it to the point that in it that's just what they did. It was different back then, and the equipment was a lot more forgiving.

This particular system, one of these days, maybe I'll, make some video footage of it. But this completed this particular system had a parallel compressor on it before so all the medium temp refrigeration. In this entire restaurant, they had a waitress region, a bar region. The bar region had four coils in it.

The waitress region had two coils in it. They had one two, three four five regions and their cooks line, a walk-in cooler and a beer walkin were all off of a single condensing unit that had parallel compressors in it. With the D Super Union expansion valve hot gas bypass and over the years, that system was just given him more and more problems, so we actually eliminated that system from the picture and installed those individual condensing units that you guys saw on there. So you know it's it's very common to find oversized valves improperly sized evaporator.

So that's why, whenever I go to replace like an evaporator or a valve, I don't ever just put what was in there. I start doing the research myself. So if I was going to change this walking evaporator, I would do a heat load calc on the box, instead of just putting a like-for-like evaporator in there same thing with the expansion valve. I looked at this tonnage.

I looked at the valve and I was like that's not right, so I put what belongs in there. Okay and you guys saw I didn't even have to adjust on that expansion valve. We already had, you know 12 degrees superheat on startup, and then it dropped down to like 10 degrees when I was leaving. So everything was good.

So but again, customer was part of the whole decision-making process the entire time, and I warned them hey whatever the issue that caused that thing to take a dump the day before it never proved itself, I mean there's lots of things that could have been part of It but nothing jumped out in my face and said this was the absolute problem, so I was very forthcoming with the customer about that made sure it was documented on the invoice. Hey keep an eye on it. It's now been five days since four days since I was there made sure you know everything is working as good as possible. They haven't complained so all as well really really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos keep in mind Monday evening 5:00 p.m.

Pacific, I'm gon na be going live on YouTube and, like I said in the beginning of the video guys, the merch is Now available on the website, hvac our videos dot-com check it out and you know help support the channel if you guys so choose alright. I really really appreciate you guys and we will catch you on the next one.