We have a beer walking down beer walkins at 50 degrees, most of its of his beer anyways in a good dark brown ale. I kind of like my beer at 50 degrees. My brown ales good taste, better. What flavors come out, but you know these pits beers.

They got to be super cold, although I'm not knocking them. It's just you know, Corona. We got a habit with the lime and it's got to be really but anyways no ice formation going on up there. So leads me to jump up under the room.

This video is brought to you by sport'ln quality, integrity and tradition. We got a tiny little condensing unit up here. I got ta rip the doghouse off of it, so we can see what's going on, let's see nothing's running. Obviously, condenser doesn't look too bad, not really.

Looking bad at all, actually it's like. We got a little bit of oil buildup right here kind of fresh. It's a fan cycle control. Maybe so I don't see a defrost clock which is interesting.

You would think they would be on here, but my little umbrella covering me up kind of nice. It has a little pivoting head thing all right. Well, I'm going to open this guy up, yeah, there's a screw and then we'll have to gauge up on this guy too. So, okay, so we've got a three-phase contactor here and this is a 208 volt 3-phase contactor, so the coil voltage is 208 and it is receiving 208 three-phase or at least that's in theory, so line one to line to 208 line, one to line three 208 line.

Two to line three to eleven, so we've got three-phase power coming into the contactor, the contactors not pulling in. Let's look and see if we have coil voltage, my contactor coil has 208 bolts at the contactor coil. So what we're gon na do is power down. The disconnect switch confirm that it's actually powered down, nothing, nothing and we are going to pull the electrical lines off the contactor, coil and ohm out the contactor coil.

I will tell you that there is a slight burning smell coming out of this electrical box ever so slight yeah. My contactor is reading open line, so the contactor coil itself is bad. We got to start by changing that and then we got to figure out why the contactor failed. They typically don't just fail.

I would bet that we're going off on high pressure consistently or something funky like that, usually what I like to do is just mark them. Make my life easier now I don't have to guess too much we're just gon na do a wire for a wire if we can actually try to pull the contactor out first, you know I find it funny the RDI or Kolpak. You know they put these units together and you know they're kind of like a budget line they're not like real high quality. They work, they're, functional and one thing that I find very funny.

Is they take the time to put four screws in the compressor contactor but yeah the rest of the unit's? Just you know a budget line every other manufacturer just puts two screws in the contactor. It just seems kind of silly. I can't handle an upside down face plate on the contact or something I was switching around. The coil voltage was on the other one.

I was in the top typical me, though, all and complaining that they put too many screws in, but I have to put all the screws back in if you follow that OCD ready, listen for the torque wrench to click, click, nice and tight, make sure you properly Torch stuff down the torque spec is written right on here. Lugs forty pounds we got ta make sure we get it down to 40, quick. No, that was only 39 hold on. There was 40 yep nice and good mom.

Whenever you're doing these, though I like to run them so in out in out 40, there you go in-out, in-out yeah, see this one wasn't at 40. I can feel it. One real tip, though, is got to make sure these things are tight, the flag connectors. They can cause problems when they're loose just like a loose wire, it's all fun and games, and I'm talking about joking with the torque wrench thing.

But uh you got to make sure these things actually make good connection: they're, nice and snug or you're just going to be back burnt wire, yeah contact or smells burn. Okay question is: why did it burn nothing's shorted to ground because the beasts weren't blown, let's fire? It up and see what happens. 1. 2.

3. Please don't blow up everything's running so I'm gon na probe up with the agents and we'll test the high pressure and low pressure cutouts and all that good stuff. All right, so we've got a flashing sight glass. It's kind of hard to see, but we've got a flash in sight glass.

I know there's a refrigerant leak right here, because this was covered in oil, but we're gon na investigate that refrigerant leak right there and see if we can do anything to fix it, see if it's just that honestly I'd like to get that out of there, because That was done on in a bind when the fan cycle switch failed and I kind of like to get rid of the service T. So that way we don't have a potential for less flare, so you know, but I don't know we'll see. Let me investigate and see if that's the only spot, all right, you can definitely see that it's leaking at that spot right there and it's possible. We could just tighten that up, but there's a couple things at play here: I'm not in a huge rush, meaning it's not the middle of the night oftentimes when those fan cycle switches fail you're in a weird bind okay, so you just have to do that.

Little service fitting thing, but the other thing is, is that on these Kolpak RDI units they do the silly stuff where they install the liquid dryer in a place where you can't pump the system down, which is stupid. So I'm contemplating moving the sightglass and dryer to this side of this valve, putting a proper pressure tap right here and then getting rid of this stupid mechanical fitting right here and fix this permanently all right. We've got the recovery machine hooked up. What I did was on these guys right here.

I can actually show you. No. I can't show you on that one on these guys. What I did was.

I took the ends off because there's a Schrader depressors in here and there's not Schrader depressors on the inside one that was hoped to hear to speed it up. Then I hooked up to the manifold got a 3/8 hose coming out of the manifold going into the machine and a 3/8 hose coming out of the machine going into the tank. We're gon na open this up, and this fitting is loose right here. So we can purge now we're purged close that down for now, I'm gon na flip the cylinder over, because that is the vapor port and we're going to pump into the vapor port to speed up the process and I think we're ready to go so.

I'm going to flip that over and then start it up. Okay, everything is open. Let's go ahead and open this guy up. Let's go and open this.

We need to zero our scale, so we see how much gas we recover. Let's go for it. Start machine is running we're gon na, let it run once it's done recovering I'll start. Well, while that's happening I'll start mocking all this stuff up and getting it ready to replace.

I really dig the if this is the mr 45 field. Piece, recovery, machine and the awesome thing is, it has the auto shutoff, so I went downstairs to go, get something and I come up and it had already shut itself off, so it runs down to like negative something I can't remember like negative 6 or something like That and then it turns off and if you hit the button again, it'll run down even lower, really cool and then it automatically shut off too. So really dig that but anyway, so we're fully recovered. Now.

So we're gon na get into here and start piping and redoing. This shouldn't take me long at all. All right, we've got it all pre pipes going to my dryer coming out purging with nitrogen right now, so we're gon na get ready to braise these things up. Real quick and then we'll pull an evacuation on it.

Okay, braised that in a weird order for a particular reason - because I was really close to the Schrader fitting on that - and I didn't want it to to fall off so I get that one then came back here did that one and they moved back into that. One so everything's in we're going to let it cool and then we will pull back him on it. Okay, so when I'm using nine log, I use it for my flares. What I use it for is to lubricate the fitting so right in here.

Put it right. There and then spin the fitting on it push it back spin it so that way it keeps the fitting from grabbing the copper and ripping it apart. Now, I'm going to put it on the threads too, but mainly I use it for this spin. It right there that way and we got a nice good fitting and then what I'm going to do make sure the dryer is going in the right direction, but I drop a dialogue right there.

Okay same thing I hear dropping, I like doesn't take much that there's God make sure you don't over-tighten them. Okay, make sure you're using a torque, wrench, nice and tight, make sure you're listening to your torque wrench and using it properly here we go here, goes mine. Oh, no, that's not quite tight enough he's a little bit more. There we go quick.

Did you hear it click alright and then, let's not quite tight enough quit there we go properly torqued all joking aside, a torque wrench is not a bad idea. Okay, because if you over tighten a flare, it's going to back off so keep in mind, you're gon na know what you're doing all right, so those are good. Now I just need to tighten on my high pressure control or my fan. Cycling control same thing: we're going to take this fitting back, dabble a nylon right there lubricate that it's just to get this right here, that little bit okay, put a drop on the threads and make sure you tighten it down properly with this one, I'm going to Have to use my open end wrench to get on the fitting, so it doesn't spin off and I'll use my tiny press and wrench on this one oftentimes.

What I'll do? Because I know that, especially when you don't have three hands here, this is going to spin a little bit so I'll turn it the opposite direction. Knowing that it's going to spin and straighten out see what I'm doing there a little bit more and will be properly torqued there we go properly torqued and that's what I was looking for. Just like that I'll straighten those out and put a maybe a dab of silicone on them in a little while, so that's my fan, cycling, control and now we're ready to hook up the vacuum pump. Okay, I got the vacuum pump hooked up.

It's running. I've got the gas ballast to open. You can tell by the red light so once we get down to fifteen hundred a thousand ish microns I'll shut the gas ballast. Now it's time for me to clean up, because I got a huge mess up here.

So I'll get going on the cleanup we are at about eleven hundred microns, so I'm gon na go ahead and close the gas ballast. So what I have set up I've got here is I've got the true blue hoses. I've got a half inch, connector three-eighths inch. Connector we're going to the I believe these are seven eighths or three-quarter Eide.

Diameter hoses the true blue hoses we're going to a core removal tool. I've got the Schrader core removed on both of those, and I have my micron gauge on the liquid side. What I'm going to do is eventually valve off the liquid side, pull through the suction side. So that way I can get a true micron reading it's going to take a little while to evacuate.

I really don't think that there's any air really much in the system, because I was purging with nitrogen and I swept with nitrogen when I was done, but there's gon na be refrigerant, vapor still trapped in the compressor oil, so that is going to take a little While so, don't let refrigerant vapor fool you, you can usually tell when it just stalls out and if you shake the compressor it'll rise and that'll tell you that it's usually refrigerant, vapor and or nitrogen. I've seen nitrogen. In my opinion, some say: that's not true, but I've done some experience. Experiments on my side, where I take nitrogen and I find that nitrogen will get stuck in the oil too.

So anyways we're going to let this evacuate for a while and I'm going to continue to clean up so we're still pulling down it's at about eight hundred microns. Let's see if we can make it rise by shaking the compressor and there it goes. So that's proving that it's just stuff stuck in the oil, that's boilie! Now more than likely. I think it's refrigerant, so we're gon na.

Let it run a little bit longer, but we're not going to see a perfect vacuum on this. So all right we're getting ready to charge it now, here's what we're gon na do. I've got this guy hooked up we're gon na zero out the scale we using the SMAN, because it's easier when you're charging. You know all this stuff.

I have it up here. So sometimes I'll start on the probes, but then I'll switch over to this, depending on what I'm doing so zeroed out the scale. So what we're gon na do is go ahead and purge okay, and then we still got a purge here. So we're gon na open up the high side, perch here: okay, same thing on the low side, open up the low side perch here, okay, now we can close those down.

We can leave the high side open because we're gon na blast refrigerant in on the high side and zero out the weight. So we know how much we add and that's it. We're gon na go ahead and add open on this guy disconnect switches off. So although the low-side is going to come back up because the solenoid valves open so at this point, that's about what we pulled out of there and I don't want to blast the compressor with liquid refrigerant.

So I'm going to shut it off and go ahead and start it up and just clear up the sight glass. This unit has a fan cycle switch. It does not have a head pressure control valve so we're just going to run a clear sight glasses off. Let's go and fire it up, fan cycle switch, keeping the fan off, let's see where it turns on.

It should be around 250, while we're waiting. We can take this off now that we have positive pressure, should be firing up here any minute there we go yeah. 260, that's good all right! So we're gon na go ahead and clear this sight glass up, let it run for a minute being careful not to overcharge I'm waiting for the system to stabilize out before I can finish charging it looks like it might have a clear sight, glass, it's kind of Going back and forth so we're going to let it run for a bit, but I just went in sprayed some big glue on all the fittings and then I'll do a quick, visual leak check. I don't expect there to be any, but it's taking the service gauges off, wait for the unit come down in temp, but um.

Whenever I pull the strainers, I don't like to replace them. I don't see the sense in putting old Schrader's back in so I've got some new ones, I'm gon na throw them in there and watch the unit come down to ten all right. My system is just about down to temperature. Let's take a look right here.

Measure, quick is a happy camper. Super heats looking good, it's just about down to temps box. Temp is 39 degrees, so we're gon na give this bad boy. A clean bill of health everything's good over here leak free cleaned, all the soap bubbles off of this a nice good connection, zip tied up.

I connected it back to here, yeah we're looking good, I'm going to wrap this guy up and put it back together. The whole time I'm up on the roof, I'm watching this trash bag just below around this right here is a headache waiting to happen. Sucked up look at it's already sucked up on an AC, let's think yeah, to get out of there and see what it's done. No okay, it's not anything bad.

Let me just get that pulled out, but yeah, that's a heavy acquaintance to happen. Man, that's gon na end up being a stuck to a condenser or something so putting that crap up, save the customer, a headache just get ready to leave. You know this is kind of stuff. That really sets me off it's hot, I'm tired and I'm thirsty.

The last time I was at this restaurant, I told him that the gas shocks were busted on the roof hatch and someone was going to get hurt, I'm careful whatever, but from me opening and closing it. It's now bent the hinges right here and it won't shut anymore. The freakin door is like bent and offset. I've tried loosening everything I cannot for the life of me, get it to shut it's totally, because the hinges are bent all messed up.

It's so frustrating right now: okay, even when I remove all the latching Hardware, the freakin hatch, so frustrating it's so frustrating man, I'm exhausted all right. I was able to get it to shut, but they can't latch. There's no latching hardware. It's not gon na lock, they're! Just gon na have to deal with it.

Okay, we had a service call on a beer walking cooler that was not working right. Okay, customer doesn't like their beer to be too warm right. They want it to be nice and cold. Ironically, we're in the middle of this virus and they're not selling very much beer but hey whatever I'll take any service calls.

I can get so found that the unit had a refrigerant leak and had a bad compressor, contactor. Okay, so I replaced the contactor first. Obviously then found you know, big-picture kind of stuff that the unit was low on refrigerant, went ahead and repaired the refrigerant leak, but I was proactive in my repair in that I didn't. I could have just tightened the flare nut, but I brought it to the customers.

Attention and just said, hey, look. Here's the deal this unit has got a leak. I could just tighten on this, but let's get ahead of the game. Let's make this, so this doesn't happen again.

Let's eliminate some fittings, let's move the dryer we'll go ahead and give me an opportunity to replace the dryer. I repipe the system, they were cool with everything and I made it easier for myself or the next guy down the road to make a repair, because the way that that system was designed, there was no way to change that liquid line filter dryer without recovering the Entire charge, you couldn't pump that system down because of the placement of the dryer okay, that was kind of cruddy, but you know whatever. So I took this time to go ahead and eliminate all that stuff, make it easier for myself. The next time put it on the other side of the line service valve or the king valve.

I guess you can call it and that way you know it makes it easier all right. It was a pretty straightforward repair, nothing too crazy. Okay, you know I showed some frustration at the end, because this is how stuff happens. You know it was really hot that day, we're kind of in the middle of a like a little freak heatwave.

We got and I was probably close to a hundred - maybe ninety. Ninety ish hundred somewhere in there - and you know it - goes through all the repair no big deal. But then I go to close the roof hatch when I'm leaving and the roof hatch is bent right and - and it irritates me even more because I warned the customer about it last time like hey, you need to get this hatch fixed because someone's gon na chop, Their fingers off because there was no gas shocks, so you literally have to use your back to lower the hatch down. You know when you're going down but anyways, I went ahead and got it to work.

Did they let the hatch can't shut and lock now? But I got it to work and you know the customers happy box was down to temp alright, so it wasn't too difficult. Just a pretty straightforward repair like I said, I really really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos. Do me a favor okay. I show all kinds of tools that I really like in my videos.

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