This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. So today's complaint is a walk-in freezer when they got here at 6 a.m. this morning, the temps were high. They said it was about 25 degrees.

I was a little concerned when I saw the frost right there, but it's not frozen up so we're gon na this shopping, mall location, so I'm gon na have to get up onto the roof and we'll check and see I'm gon na this panel. It's loose all open this up and just look in there see what's going on, but then we'll have to get up on the roof and gauge up. So I found this with the super heat not missing, and this cat missing which kind of sucks. But I don't know if those are the problems, we're gon na confirm accuracy on the temp control that can be kind of tricky, so I'm going to turn it, although the wind noise you're getting so currently right now it's set for negative 15.

We want to see where it clicks that just like, we might have a bad temperature controller, because it's clicking out like negative 15 and it's currently about 20 degrees in the box. So we're gon na jump on the roof check the chart and then maybe change the temp control. As we come into the fall. It's currently October right now and we get colder morning's.

We got to be really careful, working on shopping, mall, roofs, I'm working on a shopping mall right now and I'm walking over to my equipment in the summertime, which really isn't much of an issue unless it's raining, but this one has this rubber roof. I can't remember what they call it, but it becomes very slippery when it becomes wet, but when it gets icy outside it's like an ice skating rink, your best bet is to try to stay on the paths, if possible, even on the paths. It can be real, icy and really slippery, but you always want to be careful where I'm at he gets really cold and we have frost up in the mountain. The area hung up in the high desert and we have frost and we have so.

These roofs can become basically like ice skating rinks. So I know you guys in the Midwest probably know all about this, but just want to be careful when you're walking on these roofs make sure you stay on the paths, especially in the winter time, but even in the winter time it can still be slippery. Even on the path, so this is my equipment right here come up onto the roof and you can clearly see the best sight glasses flashing. It's not horrible, we'll just clear up the sightglass definitely think that their problem is the temperature controller and we're just a little short on gas.

I can tell by looking at it it's really not going to take much and in all honesty it's probably just that missing a Schrader cop downstairs, but we'll definitely look at the big picture. Go through everything check everything out properly, just pull the cover off. So I can put my probes on there and I'm just kind of visually inspecting anything. I don't see any oil up here.

We've got some flares up here. There's no oil accumulation on those looking at the compressor contactor. It doesn't look amazing. Just from the looks looks like we've got some pitting going on: it's a possibility, we'll go ahead and change that contactor, but again we're just kind of looking at everything.

Seeing what we could do see. If we see any issues, I'm gon na go ahead and put some probes on here check the running pressures and then we'll go from there pressures. Don't look horrible, don't mind all this here. I just didn't bother setting anything up crushers.

Interestingly enough, though, the site loss is clear, so I was running clear at the moment. We know that we saw a problem with the temp control. Let's go ahead and take a look at this depressor contactor. If we, what kind of voltage we have coming into it and then test that we're going to test the line voltage coming in a 4.7 to a 5.7 six five sex test for voltage drop nothing.

But I still don't like the way that that contact your looks. We're also in a very sandy area. So if I have one of those contactors I'll go ahead and replace that as a preventive thing. But I'm pretty confident that our problem is the temperature controller downstairs, because you saw how it was saying it was turning on and off at like negative 15, when it was positive, 20 degrees of clock so probably changed that, and possibly, if I have one we'll go To a digital controller, so I like to pre wire these controls outside of the box, put a wire nut here instead of jumping two wires on that one little terminal, because it makes it really difficult.

So you put it together and then we've just got to make final connections inside the walk-in all right, so I've got the pre wired control right here already, I'm thinking about installing it right here, no, oh, install it on the wall. Yeah it'll be better. I oftentimes talk myself out of things because I think of like what they're gon na stack boxes all up right here and ruin something or whatever try to bring in everything that I needed. So that way, oh look kind of spot for the control too.

So we can go ahead and get the control mounted. I like these Ronco ET c-141s for walk-in freezer controls. I've always been a Ronco fan. Lately I've been using the Dix old, confining the cheetah therm tent plus defrost.

If I'm working on a walk-in cooler we're just the basic easy temp controls all right, so we've got electrical right. There we'll go ahead and go in one of these spots right here. What I'll use this right here there I'll have to make sure that we get that secured so that the wires don't touch the heater put the zip tied up we're gon na make this pretty tight. So that way, there's no slack for them to break in okay.

So that's going to go like that strip. This long, I keep this SJ chord. I got the 14 for and I keep that in my truck, it's very versatile and you can use it for a lot of different things, yeah just personally for field work. If I have white wires, I just tape them up.

I like the idea of the pink wire cuz. You can use that for your switched leg. That's why I like this SJ chord, it's good stuff tape, it all off! I remember taking a. I think it was the Nate test.

I think it was, and it was the stupidest question in the world on the test and it said in an electrical system on a hundred and fifteen volts, which wire can you grab while the circuit is live and they didn't give you a choice of a ground Wire, so I thought it was the stupidest question because you never grab any wires when the system is live, not even a ground wire. You never know so anytime. I then what they're the answer they were. Looking for, I answered it with the right answer.

Was the white the neutral leg, but it's that's. The stupidest question in the world should never grab ya a wire, that's energized in the circuit. It was ridiculous, got my screwdriver kind of being lazy. Oh oh, I found the superheating that that's awesome.

It's in the bottom of the coil wondering how I was gon na get that okay. So this is my neutral. This is my switched leg or the hot leg, which would be my search leg circuits completely dead. This would be my switched leg and tie into neutral here in just a minute.

Okay, so we will secure that to the top of the box to keep it from touching the heater for now, though, I will bring these wires back here, because we're going to try to clean this mess up, keep it organized to meet there we go so this Would be my tower, this is a 208 single phase, evaporator coil walk-in freezer coil with electric defrost, so this will be my switched leg will give power to that cool and the nests end up down to these ones. We should be able to fire it up. I'll. Go get some zip ties.

Zip tie all this stuff up, get this old control out of here we got it turned on and set up all right. I need to get some stuff to take that apart. Take this out. Take this out.

Try to get the things. I don't need clean up after myself, I'm really bad at doing that, trying to be better zip ties. First, we're gon na start with this top one get this zip tied up. These are the zip ties with the screw holes.

Did you serve a purpose? Sometimes I get annoying, but also that'll keep this from touching the defrost heater. This guy's zip-tied right here, nice, safe place, looks like something love to screw out of the solenoid valve. I'm going to put that in there to make everything a little bit safer like that, and then I could screw this to the back wall and be safe with that. Okay, there's that and then we're gon na get a screw up in that get that tightened down.

I hate it when the screw gets lost on this thing's got to get the water out of this it's frozen, so I'm gon na have to go up with the heat source control moved. I don't like to leave this extra stuff in here. It's easy enough. I like to remove it, I'm not going to say I've never left certain situations.

You might find it easier to leave parts in there, but I need to go get a different tool. Okay, super eat nuts, not coming off. This go control, okay, good to go nice and safe. I need to come up with a nut with the screw for this solenoid valve.

I don't have one kind of sucks this, this nice and safe. Just in case, I might have to come back with the screw for this snowboy twelve. I don't see it in the drain pan at all. Okay, so we're good.

There we're good there all right. So now we need to mount the sensing bulb for the temp control. It's getting nice and stiff to beat the freezer it's cold in here is just not as cold as it should be. One of the things, too is, if I can, I like to get the sensing bowl before the thermostat off the coil and get it on to the back wall.

I prefer them to be on the back wall as long as you can get them to where they're not touching the metal. In my opinion, the best place they'd be okay and a little bit this gon na be kind of crappy. Okay. Now I need to mount that over there, okay to be careful on these Ronco controls, these new sensing bulbs.

You can break them. They're, flexible they're, not the hard plastic that that used to be very careful. So what I like about these zip-tie zip ties with the holes, is they create an offset and hold the sensing bulb off the wall? It's really nice. It's supposed to be, like I said, be careful when you're tightening these things too cuz you break the sensing ball.

I know that from experience that works so cincy bulbs back in there mounted safe away from the wall, we're secured nice and tight here and tighten that a little bit more. Everything in here is good, so we can turn it back on all right. So let's go ahead and test the control turn it up way. High.

It clicks, listen again, we'll turn it on. I'm gon na set four negative ten. There you go so it's working, it's the last thing I'm going to do is I have a thermometer, that's accurate! I'm gon na set it next to this control. Leave it here for a few minutes and come back and make sure that the controllers reading accurate all right so pretty darn accurate, I'm good with that.

We'll go ahead and compensate right there, so we're gon na go and put the panel's back on, go up on the roof check charge, I'm filling them. I just put a little gas in there, but it wasn't even low enough to really be worried about it. I guess still got to come up with the screw for this solenoid valve. I don't have one and I got to get a cap on this guy.

Okay, so I've got the nut. I ended up having a screw. I just stole it from a good valve I'll steal it from the bad coil. When I change one soon that back on everything's good I've got an even frost pattern on the coil we're looking good.

So I'm gon na wrap this up alright, so we still have bubbles every once in a while. I really don't think it's a big deal. We're gon na go ahead and clean and clear them real, quick. I haven't feeling the bubbles are just like.

I said it goes away every few minutes, so we're just going to go ahead and you know add a couple ounces clear permanently and then I'm going to go and get started on changing this contactor, it's clear now. It literally just took a couple ounces, so we're gon na go ahead and pull the gauge off, and then I'm gon na shut it down and we're gon na. Do this contact again. Okay, I'm gon na go ahead and verify that powers off.

It is powers dead, dead, dead powers dead, so we're safe. I shut it down at the disconnect swap out this contactor real quick. It will not take long all right. Those are line voltage we're gon na.

Do we don't want to get confused here, so we got to be careful about not I'm doing too many wires at the same time. It's not like. I can't figure it out, but try not to work too hard here, yeah all right. So just pull these out.

Like this all right, we're almost there, so we're gon na start pulling these wires off this line. Three one two like one coil voltage pizzaz house, goes so crazy. Putting these contactors and you only need two screws, one on each corner top and right bottom corner, and this contactor will never come out. I just need to do the bottom of the contactor real, quick, okay and then just go ahead and pop these guys off kind of doing this.

A little blind because I can't see down there all right, just hooking up the connectors, blue and red go in the middle, I should say red and yellow mixing the colors up a little bit. There's that and then blue is last last one. Okay, tighten these guys up that aren't being used. Knock on wood should be able to turn it on, and nothing blows up in her face.

So we're good put it into defrost, make sure it turns off. It should be pumping down right now make sure the contact is working correctly works, good, okay, so we're all good. Now sight, glass is clear: everything's good contactors in the old one. You know it wasn't completely failed, but it was starting to pit in there.

So cool preventive ly, we got that taken care of we're in a very sandy environment up here, so we got to take care of those before they become problems, walking, freezers running. We should be good all right. We had a service call on a walk-in freezer that wasn't working properly and the first thing that happened when I arrived was, I walked into the box. The evaporator fan motors were running.

I saw some frost or some ice accumulation on the suction line, which kind of made me think it was frozen up, but it wasn't it actually. The I noticed that the temperature controller thought that the box was cold enough when it wasn't. So when I arrived, the box was in the 20s and the temperature controller was turning on and off at negative 10 negative 15, whatever it was. So that is a mechanical thermostat.

It is a Johnson, a 19 something something for TC or something like that. I think is a single pole single, throw thermostat part number, but I like them, they're good controls, but they do go out of calibration after a certain amount of time. Okay, you know there's ups and downs, Goods and Bad's to all kinds of controls. You know if I'm trying to save money, I'll use an a nineteen mechanical control or for certain other reasons sometimes, but in this instance I decided to go back in with a digital, but the control was just basically turning on and off at the wrong temperature.

So I went ahead and changed it, but also looking at the big picture like I always do, I saw that the screw was missing out of the top of the sill envelop. That's not good! That can cause some buzzing and some issues there. So I put the screw back in the top of the cylinder and then also notice that the the nut on the bottom of the expansion valve was missing. The superheat adjustment nut so put that back on.

I found it in the bottom of the coil and then also noticed that there was a Schrader cap missing. Okay, which can cause refrigerant leak, so took care of all those issues and then just went through everything up on the roof. Just looking at the shape of the equipment, you got to know the areas that you work in, so that was up in the desert area, where we get a lot of blowing sand and we really got to watch out for contactors that get caked with sand. Basically, because it causes issues and causes them not to work right, so you know just preventive ly, looking at everything found that the contactor was kind of pitted went ahead and replace the contactor also and other than that everything else is good.

This was a pretty straightforward service. Call really nothing too crazy. You know, I really don't see anything too difficult with it. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos keep in mind.

I do live streams Monday evenings work permitting at 5:00 p.m. Pacific time on this YouTube channel. I go live, usually go for about an hour to an hour and a half, depending on how many questions are coming in. I try to answer questions.

I take that time to address questions from emails. Facebook comments, YouTube comments and then also there's a live chat going on, which sometimes is a whole nother world, but then there's tons of comments in live questions that I try to address too. So it really just depends on how many questions we have. I might take you to an hour and a half if you guys get a chance, come check it out any questions that you guys have.

Please please please email me hvac our videos at gmail.com, i'm always willing to accept criticism. If you guys have something that you think i did wrong or you have a better way or even you just say hey. I think i do it this way. Let me know anyway, you want to hit me up, i'm on all the social media platforms.

Well, I shouldn't say all of them: I'm on Instagram and Facebook under HVAC our videos, I think, there's something under Twitter too, but I really don't pay too much attention to that, but same thing under HVAC our videos. I think I mentioned my email HVAC our videos at gmail.com and that's pretty much it okay. I really appreciate it and we'll catch you guys on the next one.