This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition, so I have a service call on a kitchen AC, that's not working, and I pulled up the internet thermostat, and this is what I get it says: it's been offline for a full day, so I Could you know, try to call the manager and have them go, try to reset breakers? Have them try to go in the roof, but inevitably more than likely, I'm gon na have to go out there and I'd rather not prolong. I have anxiety and I just want to get there and get my hands on and I don't want to sit there on the phone for a half an hour. You know playing with them back and forth. Like that's just me personally, I don't like to try to do that, because inevitably I usually have to go out so I'd rather just solve it myself, so we're on the in route and, let's see what we can get to this is Saturday, it's September 14th.

I believe it's a three o'clock in the afternoon, so all right. So this is my kitchen ec. The system says it's completely offline, so we're gon na start checking power and go from there. So I don't want to turn the disconnect switch off yet because of this thing, has the clo board's the compressor lockout boards right there? Turning off the disconnect switch can reset a safety.

So the first thing you want to do is test between X and C, see if you have 24 volts that would indicate that we're off on lockout. It's not registering so now we're going to check between C and R. We don't have any voltage so now we can go ahead and check main power. We don't need to go into the disconnect switch.

We can just check it right here to see if we've got main power, nothing there. So you got something there. So the fact that we had nothing here is indicating that we've got a blown fuse, so we're gon na go and open up that disconnect switch and go from there. So I've got my meter set on tone and we'll go ahead and check across the fuses and powers off with continuity.

I've already verified power is off too so we got a blown fuse now. The next thing we want to check is: if we have power, I've been trying to get better at it, because it's a little bit safer to use one hand, but sometimes it's a pain. 198. It's 105 outside.

So this is what I'm talking about. When I say we have dirty power, they have low voltage issues for sure when we at low, so we've got three-phase power coming in another thing that I'm noticing these things seem loose in here. There's me: the disconnect switch things seem loose, probably torque down on those. No, no talking you don't tighten John's teeth.

So all right, we got to figure out why the fuse blew its line, so we're gon na home everything out to ground or check everything to ground spin. All the motors condenser fan motors and down here before we try to turn anything on that one spins, let's go down in here this one that one spins. Obviously we can't test the compressor, so we turn on power button up the contactors they're, not great. Definitely some pitting there open up the blower check out.

The blower will check the capacitors and then check everything to ground before we try to turn anything on blower motor it spins. It's not locked up. The wheels kind of dirty but belts kind of decent looks like we got a pulley going back from the wear on that belt. It's blazing that really good bullies that tell just by looking at it, but it's glazed out and it's not flat.

If I had my gage I'd, show it to you guys, alright, so we're just gon na kind of investigate and see if we can see any electrical shorts. This Wilma meter set on continuity. I have a certain continuity. There you go okay and then I'm just gon na check everything to ground just find a known ground, and do it so we're just going to go down to ground and listen for tone.

I'm not going to get it on camera right now, but we'll just go through and check everything pulled out. The run capacitors for the condenser fan motors run in 923, so that's within five percent still probably still recommend replacing it. But that's not my problem. So we'll test the other one now so the other capacitor is it's showing nothing, but I also have a dead battery, so I need to go.

Get a battery in this thing. Good boy go any further, but we're just going through everything. Like usual big picture diagnosis, we know that those contactors look like junk that looks pretty bad over there too. So we're just going through it step by step, we'll get a new battery in that guy and test it properly.

All right now I got new batteries yeah, so I've got a bad tap. So one more things to make sure that I'm getting good contact there you go to microfiche and so yeah we got a pad cap. So we'll get that replaced it's a little swollen. It's not bad, though they obviously got so I'll go ahead and replace that I brought one up and we'll get it wired back in and then we'll go through the rest of the stuff.

So I'm gon na go ahead and pull these fuses out and notice. I've got spare fuses and I like to leave spare fuses so that way we can save ourselves a headache when I change fuses. I change all three at the same time: no man, those things you take their problem. No, actually I was wrong leg.

So we'll get the fuse, has changed, get the new ones in there make sure that they're good, probably I've, turn it on after that, before I stick my hand in there, because I used a fuse puller to get them out. I'm gon na just double check that this disconnect switch, is actually working and shuts off voltage. So pull up this bit right here and we can go ahead and check it right here, because if it was stuck on it would be right here that we would be getting voltage. Nothing, nothing so we're dead so check to make sure these new fuses.

I put in there good and it's Tony now so that's good, and it's Tony now so we're good on that I'll check the fuse to figure out which one's bad. I got to check in a different way, I'll check these to make sure that they're bad and then all the two that are still good I'll put them in the disconnect. In case I blow a fuse when I turn it on people asked why I change three fuses. When I change one okay, look at this, you can tell that this view is overheated.

I don't know if this is the method. Sometimes they have visual indicators on them to tell you that it's tripped, but you notice how faded that one is. But then, if you notice this one right here he's got a lot of orange up in the top too. So this one looks like it overheated.

Maybe it didn't blow, but it's almost going to blow. So that's why, when I, when I have a blown fuse, I change all three because we might have put stress on one of the other ones. If you figure, everything in this unit is at least 208 single-phase. So it's going to take power from both of those.

So if you blow or have a direct short on one leg and it blows that fuse the potential that the other fuse could have been damaged, is there. So, that's why I change all three. When I change them, I'm going to go ahead and pull this knife cover off. So we can see the disconnect knives and make sure that they actually look okay and don't look burnt.

And you know for this because I'm close to the high voltage I'm going to use my insulated screwdrivers to make sure that we're being safe the knives. Don't look horrible but there's definitely some corrosion on them. Where they've been touching this one, we think it's been getting hot. It's like a greenish, color yeah.

So there's definitely some corrosion there, but it doesn't look like it's arcing so we'll see, but it looks like an overheat for sure on these two legs: I'm not gon na change the contactors. Yet I want to get a big picture. Look at everything, and I want to kind of try to see what it is short of a direct short which I don't see any if we're gon na go ahead and turn this guy on we'll leave that open okay powers on and then we're gon na watch. Everything slowly turn on and verify that it works.

It's like one compressor turned on the second one hasn't turned on yet both condenser fan motor is turned on and the indoor blower, so I'm gon na, go and put the panels on, and then we can amp everything from in here. Both condenser fan motors are running right here. They're allowed to run three point, two amps within two point: three, two point: three eight, so condenser fan motors aren't over amping anymore, but that bad capacitor would definitely make that thing, maybe pull off later. That was the second stage compressor turned on, so all our compressors are long.

Indrani next thing we're gon na do is test our disconnect we're going to let it run for another few minutes and then we're going to put a laser thermometer and check the temperature on the disconnect and so we're going to let this run. The whole unit is falling apart. If I look at this panel, this thing is just disintegrated, falling into pieces and the whole thing's shaking that mothers out of balance singers. All right, let's see if I can visually show this to you guys, so what I'm gon na do is I'm going to test on the lugs okay, one 10910.

Eight. 1:06. 125. That's weird! There's a high high temperature on that top 1:06.

1:07. So that's interesting! I'm gon na let it run for a little bit longer making a common sight. Things are tight. It's interesting there's something going on there.

I think it's a problem in the disconnects which, because that middle leg, which is the fuse that was blown, has 123 on the top with in its lower voltage coming out of it venture. Usually you see the opposite: let's check it again. 113. 125.

107. 109. 106. 105, it's very interesting they're, very interested in check the fuses, I'm 22, 122, 107, 14, 118 and 106.

Now, let's do these knives of Bush. The whole thing is moving yeah the whole disconnect like boom right here. When I push on this one, the whole thing it's like the disconnect is clustered inside yeah there's something going on there. So what I'm gon na do, I don't have a disconnect switch and if I can get them going, I'm gon na Lube that up with some silicone grease of a dielectric grease does that women make a better connection and then we're definitely gon na write them up.

For a disconnect switch - because I just don't like this, but we're gon na still keep checking everything else out so contactors, even though I know they're pitted we're going to check voltage drop nothing. They look like crap, though so we're changing the structure. Last thing we have to do, it looks like our such minds are sweating up, put some service gauges on this guy and check out the charge all right, so I'm gon na go ahead and set up my profile and measure quick. I don't even worry about system ID to the mob recording models this year, we're gon na start by changing the configuration to a package unit, I'm working on a seven and a half ton carrier unit.

That's a seven seven! Let's set our CEO rating. This is an older unit, so it's going to be ten to twelve. Let's go ahead and check our metering device is going to be fixed, Orvis metering device and everything else is going to be auto. Calculated go ahead.

Hit submit next thing. We're going to do is, go ahead and scroll over to outdoor measurements and what set our outdoor air temperature 105 degrees. We are ready to go ahead and put our probes up to everything. We can see what happens after that all right.

So this is the first stage we'll go back to the beginning start over, so we are running a little bit low on the suction pressure, a little bit high on the head pressure. We have a little high on the superheat just about being too high on the sub for our air temperatures. I would expect that we have a really high return because it does have an outdoor air or it has an economizer, but it's manually open because the economizer is disconnected so we're going to run higher than normal return. Air cuz it's mixing supply air 60 degrees.

All right, I'm gon na tell you right now that I'm leaning towards restriction, but before I condemn the metering device, I want to go ahead and check the suction drive. This unit has a big suction dryer on it, and I want to make sure there's not a pressure drop across it. So what we're gon na do is I'm gon na go ahead and switch over the suction clamp or suction pressure transducer. So it's 74 psi on the outlet side of the suction dryer.

Let's check the inlet side of the such a car, all right, so it looks like we have a little bit of a pressure drop about one and a half to two psi. That's not too alarming! Right now, I'm leaning towards a restriction in the metering device. Let's see what measure quick says based on the sub cooling and as your quick says, there might be a restriction in the liquid line or maybe under charge with refrigerant. So, alright, let's go ahead and jump on over the second stage and see how that one's running alright.

So I'm gon na go ahead and switch over this okay, so the second stage looks a lot better. We definitely have some high head pressure issues, so we might need to split and clean that condenser section pressures a little bit on the low side, but the super gates good. But look at that sub point it's about the same, so I don't know if the other one has a metering device problem, you might just be low on charge on that first unit, so I'm not gon na do too much more today, because it's Saturday night, I Just want to get this up and running and I got it running. We're gon na come back, we'll submit a quote.

Let them know this unit is a piece of junk, so I'd really like to tell them to change it, but I don't know all right. So we're up and running lots of problems. I'm gon na submit a quote to replace the disconnects which contactors we're probably going to clean that condenser. You might need to split it, although it doesn't look too bad.

We seem like a runnin high head. I'm sure the filters look like junk: I'm not gon na open that up right. Now, it's cooling down, so you know this is how stuff happens so check this out. I turn this guy back off.

I lubed up the disconnect with some grease and then put all the panels back on turn it back on. You guys can hear this. The bearing in the motor cell, we put out a pop with the others, yeah everything checks out. Okay, I tested the voltage making sure it wasn't single phasing.

It's not the last one is right up here, so we've got the right voltage. It's just. It sounds like junk. It sounds like it could be the motor and the bearing inside the blower assembly.

So hopefully it makes it through the weekend it's a motor bearing because I ran it without the Bell and the thing was shaking so and I can feel that in the motor to do it he's got like a dry spot. It's not a greasable motor. So I don't know if it's gon na make it a weekend or not, but we'll get the specs off of it too. So, let's recap: we had a Saturday afternoon/evening ish service call on a kitchen AC that wasn't working.

I thought it was a little interesting. I showed you guys the screenshot of the Internet thermostat and that it had been down for at least a day. You know, and I kind of expressed my the anxiety that I get when it comes to those service calls. You know - and I don't want to put you, give you guys the wrong impression.

I don't mind helping a customer out on the phone. You know like you know. If they call me and say, hey is there anything we can do to try to solve this problem? Yeah sure check your breakers check your thermostat, but other than that. I'm not really gon na by choice.

Say: hey. Do you want to check this? You want to check that. Do you want to look at this? You want to look at that because it just leads me on having to wait a half an hour in an hour. You know when the customer says yeah.

I turn the breaker on and off what was it tripped? Oh, I don't know, but I'll call you back in a couple hours. You know, then I'm sitting here going gosh. I know this service calls gon na come so anyways. I just like to just get it done myself.

That's the way that I do things. Okay, so got to the restaurant found line to fuse blown, went through my processes of checking for anything that could blow the fuse found the capacitor and looked for any direct shorts couldn't find any saw. The contactors were bad. You know I like to look at everything: big-picture diagnosis, I'm not a thro a fuse in there and see the blows again kind of person.

Okay, I like to investigate everything that I can in my power to the best of my ability, I'm not going to spend two days, but I mean to the best of my ability spin, all the motors see if there's anything locked up. The reason why I do that is because you can create problems, it can be a dangerous situation and you can cause issues. I've told stories before of how I reset breakers and then it blows a main, and it just so happened that the main was broken and I couldn't reset it. I mean it things like that have happened to me so again.

The reason why I make these videos and share these experiences with you is to show you the mistakes that I've made. Okay. So from personal experience I don't reset breakers. I don't change fuses without doing a quick check to see if there anything that caused them to happen.

Okay also went through the fact that I like to change all three fuses or both fuses, depending on if it's single or three-phase at the same time, because in my opinion there could be stress, and/or fatigue put on the opposite, fuse that didn't blow change them all. Leave some spares other than that you know I went through the operations of the unit found that the the unit looked like it had some issues as far as refrigerant charge goes okay, but there was something going on there because both of them were running higher than Normal head pressure, both stages and both of them are running a little bit high on the sub cooling a little bit higher than I was comfortable with okay, so, but that second stage the superheat was pretty darn good. Okay. Now it's also possible in hindsight, looking at everything, it's also possible that there could have been some airflow issues, because at first I didn't notice that the indoor blower motor was running funny.

It didn't sound funny, it wasn't over amping and you know what I realized. As I was editing this video, I didn't catch on film that I had to actually amped out the compressors and the indoor blower motor at the same time. For some reason I don't know if my camera didn't work or whatever, but I only got the amping out of the condenser fan motor. So when I amped him, they weren't amping high, which is strange, but it was when I was wrapping everything up and I went to go put the panel back on.

I noticed hey. What's that noise, you know is it was when I turn the disconnect switch back on and the unit started up. It was like it was almost like. The indoor blower motor was single phasing, it was making that kind of a sound, and that led me to look down the path.

So big-picture diagnosis says, I always say guys, look at everything and don't just rush through these calls, even on a Saturday night over time. One because the way that I do it is you know I don't have to go back there Monday. To finish diagnosing, I can just go ahead and submit a quote. You know, that's that's wasted time that we have to go back there from a business standpoint.

I look at it as you know, that's another call that I have to send someone to on Monday, and that means that there's another call that they don't get to go to. You know, because I wasn't thorough on the weekend now: I'm not saying to spend hours and hours and hours okay, but I mean you know I got the unit up and running. That's good enough. I got a big idea and the quote that I give the customer is not going to be like this this this this it's gon na, be hey, there's a bunch of issues here, here's a park figure.

Do you want us to investigate further? Do you want to consider replacing the unit? Where do you want us to go, and then they can lead me in the right direction and say yeah, there's no way we're changing that unit. So let's go out there and get it fixed. You know or that kind of stuff. Okay, so anyways really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos.

Send me an email, hvac, our videos at gmail.com, don't hesitate to give me feedback leave comments. Let me know if you think I did something wrong. If you have a better idea of doing something, I'm always looking for feedback, whether it be good or bad, live streams, work permitting every Monday night, 5:00 p.m. Pacific time on my youtube channel.

I usually answer all the questions that I can get my hands on when you guys send me emails. Facebook comments, youtube comments, social media, I'm on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, everything just Google. I mean the the names on all the social media is just HVAC our videos. So just search HVAC, our videos on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter or YouTube and obviously in order YouTube is but anyways that's pretty much it guys, we'll catch you on the next one.

Okay.