This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Okay, I want to start this video off by giving you guys a disclaimer I'm working on an AR 290 hydrocarbon refrigerant system. Okay, it can be dangerous, it's nothing to be afraid of, but you do have to follow some safety procedures. Okay, I would highly suggest that you guys consider looking up our SES org and they have a r2 90 or a hydrocarbon, refrigerant training program that you can take and then also true, manufacturing, delfield manufacturing and then I'm sure, there's a couple.

Other manufacturers also have YouTube videos that show you the proper procedures to follow when working on hydrocarbon systems. Okay, do not try this if you are not a professional and are not trained with systems like this again, it's nothing to be scared of, but there is some risk in as long as you follow the proper refrigeration practices that are laid out in those training programs. I told you about, then you should be fine, always wear your safety gear, always have fire extinguishers and all that good stuff. Okay, also, there's gon na be lots of tools that I show and mention in the video there'll be links in the show notes of the video okay.

Alright, so here we go. Okay, we've got a don't feel cooler, that's not working right sensor, hi, both top and bottom compressors, not running, says that the compressor is running on the temperature controller though, but the snowflakes are on, and it says that the fans running on the bottom section and the Fan is running, but we are not tenting properly for sure the compressor every once in a while will turn on so. The first thing we're going to check is that the temperature controllers are sending power and that the low pressure control is either open or closed. So we'll get in here find the low pressure, control and check the circuit upon opening this look at this they're not supposed to use regular wire nuts delfield doesn't so.

This almost makes me think someone has changed this low pressure control before so we have an open, low-pressure control, so our next step is to put service gauges on the unit, because both the top and the bottom are temping hi. This is an Archie 90 system by the way, so it looks like see it just closed. Let's see how long your clothes is for me and then it just opened. So it's short cycling.

Essentially so it looks like we might be either low uncharged or a faulty low-pressure control. Before I go any further, I'm gon na go ahead and do a quick leak check. So I've powered the unit down and we're going to wait for my leak detector to zero out. This is a combustible gas leak detector made by in pecan.

It's called the gas me once that zero is out, then we'll do a quick leak check on the evaporator and the condenser see if we have any obvious leaks and then after that we'll proceed to put service ports and check the charge, if need be, we're zeroed Out we'll do a quick one on the condensing unit, so you just pick anything up. We're gon na go crazy, just quick check, seeing if we have any obvious weeks, nothing yet drive on law service ends up and yet the back back in here. Nothing back in there, yet these operators, the obvious place, jump in here, real, quick, hmm, interesting. Usually we would have found it by now.

So there's definitely some corrosion happening because of the acidic products they store in here, but I'm still not picking up any leaks. So we're gon na go off to put service taps on this guy and check the refrigerant charge, while it's running all right, so we're gon na have to add service ports. We're gon na use the existing process stubs that they gave us, I'm sanding them up right. There got all my safety gear got a fire extinguisher handy and we're gon na get ready to do this, because the theory is that they're still refrigerant inside this unit and remember this is flammable uh notarised are 290 refrigerant, take off the rubber gloves.

So that way, you know, guess and we're gon na start it by pinching off the line down low nicely good. Then you cut it the wheel on my cutters getting worn out. I need to put a new wheel on this thing. You get one at a time there we go.

We had a little bit of spray off slide the pinion on it's, like my tips, a little dirty, but it'll do for now. Remember it being very safe. So I ran the torch across the outlet of the fitting. Just to make sure it wasn't leaking through this and it's not because it would ignite if it was remember very safe, because this is flammable propane always have your safety gear near.

You remember, be prepared for the worst. When and if it does happen, you don't panic. Now we're going to inspect that and if it checks out, then we'll go ahead and put the Schrader in it. Using my inspection mirror looks like a clean fitting.

Normally, I would say let it naturally cool, but I want to do this quick. It's always best. A lot of naturally cold, you can compromise the braze joint. Sometimes when you have sensitive materials, you just got to do what you got to do nice and good.

So now we're going to go ahead and insert our Schrader once we make sure that it's not too hot to be able to grab this and hold my hand on it. It's warm, but it's not hot enough to melt the o-rings. I've got a little ratcheting tool. That'll, tighten it straighter to the right tornado.

It clicks just like my elbow when I tighten the flare so okay. Now we can go ahead and remove this. What you can do is press on the Schrader with a little bit of flow, but now, but so the next thing I'm going to do is take my channel locks, go the opposite way of the crimp and just give it a slight pinch just to open level. Airway now we got to move on pinch-hit right about here, cut it off Raisa.

I definitely need to clean my two running across the top make sure it doesn't ignite. So we don't have a leak, be mindful of where that's pointing just in case that pinch wants to. Let go it doesn't blow. The flamethrower in your face should be more than enough solder, but I'm a little generous with my solder just like to be soon inspect it real quick make sure that it looks like a tub.

I'm gon na go ahead and cool it and go ahead. Answer tower. Schraeder and be careful because now there's a pinch point: this is a weak spots. You never want to lose without reinforcing them, but this is just to check pressures.

Okay, poke on the Schrader needs a little bit of turn out to go. As far as I did on the other one, that's good now we can check our pressures. So at this point we have equalized 125 85 psi pressure, everything's safe, we're gon na go ahead and turn the main power switch on and watch the system operate, see if we shut off on low pressure, we're watching that low side control that doesn't look good. So it looks like we're calling for refrigeration the snowflake that one's actually defrosting, so we can hold that down.

Sorry about that flickering! It's my framerate on my camera, okay. So let's watch look at 75 psi and we're shutting off on low pressure. We can go and get the meter in there just to verify, but here we go we're turning on cien, it's going down to 60 psi and it's shutting off on low pressure. So let me get my meter on there, so I tapped the low pressure control and it shut off so we're at 65 psi and we've got an open control, so we've definitely got a bad low pressure, control tap it and it turns on so it's just faulty.

I also need to verify the settings, but I know that pressure control should be pulling down. This is a pump down system so that pressure controls, cut outs, probably going to be 5 to 10 psi and my guess I'll verify, but I'm pretty sure so we'll get all over the factory get the parts ordered and then see if we can't get this fixed. So this is very important. There's major liability issues.

You cannot top off the charge. You cannot bypass pressure controls or anything when you're working with our 290. If it has a leak, you take it out of service until you get the parts to fix it, you do not top off the charge if it has a bad pressure control, you do not bypass the pressure control. Everything is a major liability issue and you only use OEM parts period, no exceptions, even as far down to the electrical cord you put in a factory electrical cord like, for instance, if it got ran over or something like that.

You do not want the liability of something going wrong with an r2 90 system. Consider this thing to have flammable refrigerant, and this could be a very bad situation. If you bypass something - and there was a fire or something - god forbid. So, very, very careful and we are back this - is about a week later.

I was able to get the parts we had to order them. Interestingly enough, not a lot of people are stocking. These parts at least the warranty people, so they do have to order them. Often, but we've got a low pressure control and we've got a liquid line.

Filter dryer, you do have to make sure you use the factory OEM parts. I cannot stress that enough. I was able to move this unit outside to a ventilated area, so it makes it a little bit safer, but we still have to follow our proper safety precautions, so we're gon na go ahead and pull the condensing unit out sand. Everything up and I'll show you guys the process of how we're going to do this.

Alright, so remember, I added these service fittings the last time, and this is epa-approved. This is our 290 refrigerant. We are going to vent this into the atmosphere. You want to make sure that you do not have anything flammable around you and still want to follow proper precautions.

The unit is not plugged in. It is completely disconnected. I have the plug right here, so we're safe on that we're gon na go ahead and vent. This refrigerant and then we're gon na do a nitrogen purge and then we're going to start braising in the new fittings.

I just want to know that I do have a fire extinguisher handy and ready in case there's a problem, so we're always prepared safety glasses. You know follow all the proper practices because nobody wants to get hurt. Okay, so I've got a ball valve hooked up to here, we're still gon na vent it in a controlled releases, so we're not gon na release too much at one time. Just I mean, even though we are outside we're still gon na, be careful.

Okay again, this is completely legal, because this is our 290 refrigerant, and this is the proper way if you are in a safe, controlled environment where, like outside or in a well-ventilated space, you're allowed to vent our 290 refrigerant into the atmosphere. So the refrigerant seems to have all vented out what we're gon na do is go ahead and take out all of our Schrader's and you'll notice that I also puts Illinois magnets on both of the liquid line. Solenoid valves there's one for the top and one for the bottom. That's so that way, we're sure that our entire system is open to atmosphere and then the next step is we're.

Gon na give this all a nitrogen purge to ensure that we try to get out as much of the flammable refrigerant vapor again our 290 refrigerant out of the system. Now I will tell you that, even with the nitrogen purge, it is still gon na have flammable vapor in the system. From my experience, so you always want to be careful. I always want to be cautious about this and still just be prepared for the worst.

Remember. I've mentioned before, if you're prepared for the worst, when it happens, you know how to react, and you tend to not panic as much okay, so you always want to try to think of the worst-case scenario. What can happen here and just be ready for it all right? So I've got my nitrogen right here and I'm currently purging through the system I'm pushing in through the liquid line and coming out the vapor line or the suction line. This is the processed stuff, and what I did was I'm using the the VN 500 regulator right here and I'm gon na go ahead and switch it to the Bray's mode now, which I did and now it's gon na reduce the pressure and just push like a Steady like 2 to 3 psi through the system, the entire time, while I'm working on it actually gon na go ahead and move the nitrogen regulator.

So that way, it's out of the way of the camera angle that weighs a little bit better. So we can actually see what's going on here, so the next step is we're going to sand everything up, we're gon na sand. All of our fittings are drier, get everything prepped and then that way we can go ahead and just quickly braze, the unbrace, the new or the old pressure control, sweat in the new one and then we'll fix these process stubs. I don't like these pinch points as a permanent solution here.

So you'll see what I mean when we're done cleanliness is your best friend sand, everything and say, for instance. Can I give you an example? Okay, so on this pressure control over here, I'm just gon na be unsetting the top joint of this tee, but I'm gon na I'm gon na sand, the entire tee just in case something comes loose, while I'm brazing this. That way, it's already sanded and if I have to lay some solder on it, it's already clean, always be prepared for the worst like. I said there really isn't too much scariness to our 290 you're.

Just gon na follow a couple safety procedures and, in all reality, they're really not that much different than standard refrigeration practices. I mean they tell you to always braise with nitrogen. You know so: what's the the really only big difference is is to do a nitrogen sweep in the system before you braise, and then you know. Yes, you are praising when you're done, you're gon na cut off the pinch off or you're gon na cut off these service ports.

If you're following proper practices, now I've heard some people leaving them on. You know: that's your personal choice. The manufacturer wants you to take them off so, and this is a warranty job, so I'm gon na go ahead and take them off when I'm done so, but I mean honestly, don't do anything you're uncomfortable with so, if you're uncomfortable taking off those pinched off. You know service fittings, then by all means, don't do it because nobody wants you to get hurt.

So you know yes, the manufacturer wants you to do it, but don't put yourself in a situation where you don't feel comfortable right, but let your company know don't be the one to make that decision. You know tell them. I don't feel comfortable doing that and if that's the case, they can either choose to leave them on there or they can choose to send someone else, but there's no harm, because if you don't feel comfortable, you shouldn't do it. Okay, so we're pretty much ready to get our torch out and do what we have to do.

I will go ahead and stand up. The new dryer just stand the ends on it, and these are om parts. You got to go back in with the OEM. If that's what you know, especially on our 290 stuff, you got to put om parts back in the system.

So, just because, like I have a preference of spoiling products, but in this situation I have to use the OEM, especially because this is under warranty, but still with our 290. You do not deviate from om. It is a major liability, so you do not want anybody pointing fingers at you. Okay, I'm gon na get some new process stubs ready because I did pinch the old one, so I'm gon na have to make some new ones.

You do not want to make them any longer than the OEM ones. They need to be the exact length. To be honest with you, because this thing holds 150 grams or refrigerant, which is like five and five point. Two nine ounces, so you've got to put that factory charge back in there.

We cannot there's a trick and I wanted to show you guys something if you score and break off, copper versus cut it all the way through you notice how on quarter-inch, especially it pinches. It down so I have to ream this, but if you score it and break it off, you don't really have to ream it so much or you still probably want to hit a deeper on that real quick, but you notice the difference in pipe there there's a Rather, sizable difference. Look at that, so the bottom one was scored and broken. The top one was cut all the way with the cutting wheel, so we're gon na get these preps in ready for the new dryer.

So we essentially just want to go ahead and do a band on this, just a tight little Bend and then we can cut it down and it's pretty much gon na be about right there. So we just kind of want to mimic what was here there. We go that'll, be nice and then for the other side, we're just gon na put a slight 45 on it. There we go and then that should mimic that side, then we're ready.

So that way, we've got our fittings, ready and we'll go ahead and trim them down. So we have the least amount of work once we get this ready. So we'll trim this guy about right here again we're purging with nitrogen this entire time. A couple turns one more little turn and then we'll snap it off there.

You go nice and clean. We can sand that up good to go. We'll use that for this side and this one right here will go on this side, so we just got to kind of get down here and figure out how much we need I'm going to cut it right about there. This one's going to cut off about a half inch - it's probably pretty good now when they get really short kind of need to get a set of pliers or lineman's in there to snap it off, because it's kind of hard to get your fingers on that there.

We go and we'll go ahead and ream those two just for giggles. There you go there, you go, go and get the tops cut off so as a trick. What I do is, I use the same ends for our 290 unit, so when I'm going to take them off all I'll reuse them, so I just save them, and it saves me money that way. I'm not wasting money on a warranty thing actually that when I went a little too far, but it's okay, you go if these guys sand it up and ready again.

Preparation is key. So that way, this goes fast. There's no reason for this to take too much time, but at the same time you are working with a dangerous refrigerant. If not, you know following the proper protect procedures, so you do do not want to rush through something if you don't feel comfortable, but I'm I like to be efficient and have everything ready, I'm actually lucky in that since I'm outside there's a water hose nearby.

So I do have that prepped and ready to because in all honesty, they'll, probably faster than a fire extinguisher. If I need to extinguish a flame so, but I do have both still handy, so I got a wet towel ready and I'm gon na. Take these rubber gloves off because you don't want to braise with these got some pliers ready everything ready to go and we're just going to unswept the fittings and then we'll go from there. Okay, you're gon na run it across the the end.

That's open to see. If you still have papers and nothing came out, so we're gon na go ahead and unbrace these fittings again we're pushing nitrogen. There might be a flame out so be prepared. Okay, one fitting off.

If any might be breaking right now, it doesn't want to come out whatever reason that did not want to come out. It was like pink in there or something okay. So here's the crappy part. We have no choice but to turn off the nitrogen.

So it's gon na have to deal with it. How some of the are 290 stuff goes? You just got a deal with what you got to deal with, so we're gon na turn off the nitrogen, so we could still get a little bit of a flame out here. We are still open the atmosphere running across the top, make sure you don't get any flame good. You already doesn't even need then prepared for a plane out there.

We go there well that sucks, because there was like a little fitting on there and I don't think I have that fitting. That's a bummer but I'll make it work. It's all good, melted, the cord, so I'll have to shorten that. I made a mistake.

Stuff happens. You see that, but we can't leave that there we'll have to fix it. It's not a big deal. Just again, you just got ta move the code for things to happen and be observant so, but yeah that kind of stinks about that fitting right there.

This might have to braise it up. I'm not going to have a fitting that small, so there's a little reducing fitting in there. It's a stinker moon dang it I don't know if I can get that out or not you're gon na stress about it. I can't always that a very good if I can make this - that oh yeah how's about them apples.

I just made that fitting. I could have just braised it shot, but this is easy enough fits on that there we go. That's it we'll have to make sure that there's pressure Rick here bend this line this way. So that way, it's applying pressure and when I sweat this it'll push on the only tricky part is, is that this might move.

So what we will do is ever so slightly put a pinch on this, so in hopes that it doesn't allow this to loose there. So now this top fittings not going to move. I can do these real, quick and then we'll get this one ready and he's a little Viper wet rag feet blocking compound. I'm gon na put it right up here because I'm gon na put nitrogen, while I'm brazing these that and let me go ahead and grab my low-pressure control unwind all this nonsense.

They got a bunch of wires here. Some solder ready nitrogen blowing through there under okay, nitrogen flowing put a little bend on my tour, my tip yeah we're going to do this side. First notice, the flame coming out. It's weird how it'll still come out! We want to be prepared for that.

Nobody wants to get hurt, even with nitrogen flowing through the what's happening is, is the are 290 flammable. Refrigerant is boiling out of the compressor oil. You could try to like agitate the compressor things like that. Okay, what I'm gon na do here is trying to prop this up, because I can tell it's going to want to move when I'm racing again, because the electrical lines are really heavy, so I don't want them to cause a problem.

It's kind of like making it bow some reason: it's not taking two well yeah. It looks good, it was just I don't know it looked a little sketchy for a minute, but we'll do a pressure test on the system to to make sure everything's good. All right. We're gon na do everything, but this top weld we'll do that one very last! You just pushed in that's what I wanted it to do: okay last well, the Braves doing whatever you want to call it.

I know for the Braves police, so I move the nitrogen to the other side, just to make sure that we're pushing stuff through just to make sure inspect these braze joints and inspect every well looks good, looks good, looks good best, as I can tell looks good. I don't have a flashlight with me: we're gon na have to do a nitrogen crusher test. Let's go ahead and get this wet rag stuff off in here use the wet racks that way wouldn't damage my o-rings and there's nothing wrong with them. So the wet rag works good.

Okay, we're gon na go ahead and wipe down all the braze joints. It's going to cool them a little bit. Everything looks good so now we can do a pressure test and a leap check. Ok, so now we're going to do a nitrogen test on the nameplate.

It says the design test pressure is 172 psi on the low side. So you cannot go over that. So we're gon na go ahead and put some nitro in here right now. We'll do about 150 psi.

We do have a leak, so this is why we do a nitrogen test, a leak right here, so we're gon na fix that real, quick, only gon na get in trouble for using these old fittings over and over again, that's probably what's going on here, we'll be Purging nitrogen, through from the brace function through the low side, must be like oil contamination and then looks like a solid race, interesting, okay, but purge right said: we'd go to about 150. That's it all! We're gon na do close off the nitrogen and spray big blue on everything leaves doesn't seem like any leaks, but we're gon na. Let it sit for a little while just to see if any micro clusters pop up all right, so we've actually increased in pressure, because my outer ambient has risen, bringing the box temp up increasing the pressure of the nitrogen, which is just another point to prove the Nitrogen is not an inert gas, it does change pressure with temperature, it's just very slight, but we did increase in pressure, but we've been for 12 minutes and we've held pressure. I'm good I've done another double check on all the joints and everything's good, so we're gon na call this good and go and get our vacuum rigs set up.

We're gon na do a single hose setup by vacuum, down like my cheated, while it's vacuuming I'll figure out all the electrical so remember the syllabi gulps and I'm pulling with the natural flow of refrigerant, so I'm pulling through the suction side. It's it's not necessary to do that, but I'll just figure if I'm gon na do a one host setup, I'm just gon na pull with the natural flow of refrigerant. So yes, so we started pulling microns so we're pulling from one end of the system. All the way to the other end of the system, let me put a cap on those two: I'm gon na go ahead and close my gas ballast here on my machine and now we're just pulling through the oil so we're gon na.

Let this run for a bit while I'm vacuuming down there about nine hundred microns right now, I'm mom. I went ahead and fixed this where the wire rubbed up. I just shortened the cord connectors under there and I'm gon na go ahead and put this all back in it's just kind of bolt to the back and we're just waiting for the vacuum to drop down making good time. So all right, I ended up throwing a second hose on there because it was dragging, but but we made it below 500 microns.

This isn't a low temp, so I'm not too worried about getting lower than that. So we're gon na go ahead and shut it off and do our decay and then go ahead and get ready to charge this guy up because of the very small charge. I went ahead and pulled the core removal tools off here, put the Schrader's back in, and the system still in a vacuum. We're gon na go ahead and hook up my r29 new rig and charge this guy up now, but I'm gon na clean up my work area vacuum bomb.

You know all this stuff, first, get it out of the way. Okay, so have my smart probe hooked up. I've got my scale zeroed out we're gon na weigh it in and grams, because this thing gives you grams and ounces tells you 150 grams. So I find that easier.

So we're gon na go ahead and use that or zeroed out, okay and we're going to go ahead and open. This ball valve charging on the high side to 150 grams, see what we can do here looks like this is going to be a pain in the pot. God had it on the wrong one, we're out 110 grams 120-130 140 150, and we need to overshoot it. Just a little bit because we got to account for what we're gon na lose.

So, let's see if that overshot it just a little bit. Okay didn't! So what we'll do we're at 150 grams we're going to go ahead and plug the unit in and start it up and then check the refrigerant? And if you look at my smart probes, we're basically at sorry, I got a glare there. We've got pressure on both sides: okay, so that's good we're going to go ahead and take this die off and then we'll watch the unit operate and then we might add just a little bit more just to compensate for what we lost. We'll see we'll see how the units operating and what it looks like, so we're ready basically to plug this guy in and test the temperatures I've plugged it in when you go and power the you know it immediately turns on, but it's going to pump down right Now so we've got to uh I'll get this where you guys can see it.

So it's gon na pump down, probably because the temperature controllers need to turn on, but we're just going to watch it operate and make sure that the box comes down intent. Okay, so I'm using measure quick and the new refrigeration profiles and then we're pretty dead on as far as the profile set up we're just waiting for the box come down to temp. So far, it's looking good, I'm not seeing a problem with it. We are gon na run higher than normal superheat, because I'm not getting a true evaporate or superheat on measuring compressor superheat, which it's temp in 51 degrees, but this particular unit.

If we walk over here, they insulate the liquid line and the suction line together. So it's expected to have a high compressor superheat, that's going to happen so as long as we've got a cold suction line coming back. Another thing to think about too is I'm operating this unit outside of its operating envelope, because it should not be operating in a ninety degree. Ambient like we are right now, so you got to expect this thing's doing really good for being 90 degrees, and so it's saying my outdoor air temp is ninety degrees right now so yeah this.

This is doing really good, so we're just gon na watch. It come down in temperature, so I called and spoke to the manufacturer just to get a verification and they're saying that we should be about 20 to 30 degrees over ambient on our condensing tent, and then they gave me a pressure of approximately 35 to 40 psi. For our suction pressure and they're, saying that's at like 35 degrees, so I kind of just went with 40 and kind of figured out. My evap TD should be about 20.

So with that being said, we were running good and my system actually just pumped down and satisfied right now, all right, so I disconnected power to they. Get it. There's no power source. It's unplugged completely! You see the plug right here.

Got my fire extinguisher ready, got a wet towel right here, and we've got to go ahead and pinch these guys off and braise them shut, so we're gon na use a standard pinch off tool. This is a rounded out head on a set of vise grips. These are made by yellowjacket I'll, put a link in the show notes, and what we're gon na do is we're going to go ahead and pinch this guy right here, okay and then we're going to go ahead and relieve the pressure, make sure. There's no pressure in here, okay pressures, relieved and we're going to go ahead and cut this fitting off and then we're going to braise it shut.

It's the sketchy part. Okay. There you go grab some channel ops, go ahead and pinch that and then we just braise it shut easy as that very careful want that guy cool off go ahead and take my wet towel and cool it off. Take the channellocks off and then we'll do a leak test on it.

Okay, I'm gon na put some soap bubbles on it, just to make sure we don't have any leaks. I'm gon na soap, your little joints right here. I've had them leak on these. These pinch points, so you got to be careful so we'll let the soap bubble sit on there for a minute once we're leak.

Free then we'll do the other side. I don't see any bubbles, so we're gon na do is go ahead and clean off all the soap bubbles then do the other side and then we'll hit everything with the electronic bleep detector. Okay went ahead and pinched off the other side. Let the pressure out see.

There's still pressure coming out, so we're gon na go ahead and pinch it a little bit tighter because I think we're still leaking out of there. My vise grips are hot because we're at the Sun get this guy. That's Hyder! Let's make sure that the pressure stops when we push on this day, yep no more pressure, we can go and take out this trigger and then we'll go ahead and cut this guy off Pynchon shut, there's still a little bit of pressure in there there we go See so when you take the pinch off tool, it'll still come out, but you can take it off. We know and I just tighten it down a little bit.

Okay, light the torch make sure you're safe, no fire coming out before we kind of feel like. I saw a little bit of a flame out there. I think it was pushing some pressure out cool it off do a leak test. I'm sure you get your soap bubbles on you other side too, and then we're gon na.

Let us sit here. Bubbles have been on there for a minute. I don't see any leaks, so what I did was. I turn the system on to make sure that everything was calling.

I wanted to make sure that nothing was pumped down, so both the top and the bottom are calling. So we've got pressure on all the lines we're gon na go ahead and turn off the main power switch. Also that helped because the condenser fan motor was blowing any residual stuff out of their eyes II. Read out my leak detector away from this, the the area that we're working and then now we're gon na bring it up and leak check all of our Barry's joints.

Okay, so we just hit up all of our braze joints to all right, so we're looking good. Looking hundred-percent leak-free, which the bubbles told us that and the pressure test, told us that too, but we're just being safe, 100 % one more time. Everything looks good, so we can go ahead and give this box back to the customer all right, so that wasn't too bad and again it's nothing to be afraid of just follow the proper safety procedures. Okay, and only do what you're comfortable doing with working on.

Okay. Don't let anybody pressure you into working on something that you're not comfortable with all right now, there's a couple I had mentioned in the beginning of the video that I will have links in the show notes of this video for all the different tools that I used And you know all that fancy stuff important things to note evacuation, very important, that you properly evacuate these systems and it's also very important that you double and triple check for leaks. Okay, I can't stress enough - I think I stated it three four times in the video. Only OEM parts on our 290 systems don't ever top off the charge, don't ever leave a system operating that has leaks because you don't want to be liable for if something bad was to happen.

Okay, because trust me, nobody wants to pay for damages that happen. You know, hopefully nobody gets hurt, but I mean nobody wants to pay for manufacturers, don't want to pay for damages or anything that happens if there was a fire or something caused by refrigerant leaks. So they're always going to look for someone that maybe did something wrong. Insurance companies are gon na get involved and they're gon na start, pointing fingers so make sure that you follow all proper refrigeration practices, pay attention to or look into the training things that I told you guys about are SCS.

Org has a great training program on hydrocarbon, refrigerants, I'd highly suggest you guys look into that and then also there's some manufacturers training. I myself have been to the true manufacturing training. They have a regional one that came to my area and then I've also been to the Dell field manufacturers training. They had a regional one that came to my area.

So just look up those resources. Ask the Google, as I always say, and find out where you can learn how to work on our 290 systems. Don't just watch my video and think that you can jump in there and start working on them. Okay, my videos are mainly for trained technicians and it's just to show them.

You know this is the way that I do things. Okay. I am no way an expert at doing everything that I do. I am still learning every single day too, and there's always stuff that I can improve on okay other than that guys.

There really wasn't too much crazy. I think I pretty much explained everything in the video and, if you watch till this far into the end wow, you watched a really long video. But I want to say thank you guys so very much for taking the time to watch these videos. The comments and support I get from you guys are awesome and I really appreciate it.

Any questions send me an email, the HVAC, our videos at gmail.com. You can leave a comment on this video. I also do live streams every Monday night at 5:00 p.m. West Coast time, where I usually answer all the questions from these videos - and you know just kind of recap, some things so other than that guys we'll catch you guys on the next one.

Okay.