This was a return visit to repair a refrigerant leak on a beer walk in. The leak was in the condenser coil return bends and I was successful in repairing it.
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This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Today, we've got a call where I had another tech out here on overtime. About a week ago the beer walkin was down and we found that the unit had a leak. It was low on charge.

So we actually already located the leak it's on the other side of this rack. This is a chi rack, rack, so put a little big blue on there make it stand out a little bit more. Remember you spray it where there's no bubbles, so a steady stream and we're actually bubbling right on the bottom of that. It's right on the weld so we'll be able to stand that up and fix it.

So at this point, we're gon na go and recover the charge. This guy is a big boy who takes a lot of gas, so we're gon na go ahead and get recovering and we'll take you through the steps. One of the cool things about the mega flow kit is, it has tons of port, so it doesn't really make sense here, but I have multiple ports going to the suction side. High side, it's it's a mess in here, but it's just the more ports, the better.

The more hoses, the better the faster we're gon na get this gas out of the system. So what we're gon na do is we're going to put our tank in a bucket put ice, put some water in there or to try to cool the refrigerant, keep it as a liquid. So that way we can fill this tank up faster. The first thing I got to do is purge everything, so what I do is I leave this loose right here and we're just going to go ahead and open up to my suppose and we're going to go ahead and open up to here and then open up To here see how it's spraying out just give it a set down, make sure we push all the air out of the system alright.

So then we can tighten it on. I use an angled fitting right here because I'm gon na invert my tank and put it in a bucket of water, so we're all hooked up and we're purged and we're basically just going to fill this with water. Now we've got a packed full ice, so we'll build with a little bit of water until the water just comes up. We don't want to get it on the scale or anything.

It's gon na melt the ice, but it's okay, mind you. We got ta make sure that we zero out the scale after we add the water okay. So now we're going to zero out our scale. We can go ahead and open up this guy and we'll push in let the tank take what it's going to take.

It doesn't look like it's doing a whole lot right now make sure everything is open. All of our valves are open, we'll go double check on the other side, but at this point we can go ahead and turn on the recovery machine and let it go let this thing pump, while we're waiting for it to recover we're going to go ahead and Dryer ready to go we're going to change the sight glass and the dryer we're going to go in with a flare dryer, so we're just going to start sanding everything to get it prepped and then I'll start assembling. The dryer we're gon na go in with a flare, and I really like these male-female sight glasses. It's really nice makes it for easy just to screw onto the flare dryer, and I like the flares because then, when it comes time to repair the dryer later, you don't got to bring your torches up here.
You just bring your wrenches if the repairs downstairs, which majority of the time it is not you know not always but but anyways score, Lin. Here's the part number, it's an SI one for FM, and that also applies for you can get this in all different sizes. The female nail, so I like to keep these in our trucks, because then it makes it easy when you go to change out a system that has a sweat in sight, gloss and dryer, made pretty quick time we're at just about twenty-one pounds. We've still got about 75 psi in the system, so I'm going to have to shut it off right now and switch over to my other tank.

Got ta pay attention to this stuff because you don't want to overfill these tanks, so we got everything recovered. I'm going to go ahead and close up all the ports, we're going to put some nitrogen on there and really important. What I did was. I came over here and disconnected the coil voltage to the compressor.

Contactor turn the system on because we have solenoid valves throughout the system and we want all those solenoid valves to open up so that way we can flow nitrogen through the system while we're braising this leak. So we've got the nitrogen hooked up on the purge setting and I've barely got just the tiniest bit of pressure. I could feel so we're actually purging through the system going all the way through. I'm just using the.

I think it's a VN. 500 regulator works all right, yeah, we just slightest bit of pressure coming through. So that's good. Now we got to shut off the whole rack, so we can open up the other side.

Well, we're gon na have to leave be running, but we'll shut everything else off. I'm sorry see running, which is my system will leave that energized. So that way the pressure comes through and then we'll open this guy up you get in here stand this guy up. We already got the dryer sanded, but we got to get in there and sand that fitting up really good, and I just realized something.

Someone has taken the headmaster out of the system or the head pressure control valve, which isn't a horrible thing, because we really don't get that cold here. But what that means is that we don't have to nearly charge this system with as much gas because there's no headmaster, so we just clear the sight, glass and be done with it. So you got to be observant and catch that kind of stuff. Because there's no point in putting all the extra winter charge in there now to find out, you know it doesn't need it.

This thing is a nightmare to sand, because it's so far back in there, I'm almost there I've gotten that you been sanded up now. I need to get on the other side of the u-bend, these joints back in there, but I'm getting there. It's just taking some time, some creative using needlenose pliers and strips of sandpaper in the process here having to run the sandpaper through the return bin. So that way, I can go back and forth with two hands.
I what you can't do it holding the camera but and then just slowly, sanding and sanding, the pipe back and forth back and forth back and forth trying to get it clean. So this is about as good as I can get it so now it's time to braise it. We got to be careful too, because I don't want to burn a hole in it. That's a really thin copper.

So it's going to be a chore, see what we can do and a big people on there and then we're gon na melt it in prettiest thing in the world. Now the the underside is the tricky part. Luckily I can see them here. Okay, I'm gon na.

Go extra call on their jealousy, sir, and we're even going to do the other side of the band. Where was it? Thank you just to be safe, again the whole and getting very close to burning a hole in this. I just wan na okay, so I can tell that it flowed so now I'm going to get in there with the here and look and see if it looks like solder took all the way around it does look like it took, it looks pretty. Even I don't see any problems, so we're not going to push our luck and we're gon na call it at that.

So nice, big goober, a solder, I'm not gon na - be able to show you the underside, but it flowed all the way underneath we got to be very careful, let it cool and we're going to change the dryers and then do a pressure tub. So I went ahead and cut the liquid dryer out piece and then we're gon na mock up the new one and graze on what we need to and then flare on. What we need to and you'll see what I mean by that okay. So we've got the dryer mocked up and because of the tight quarters, we're using the pre-made flares and that's why I've got a braise in here.

So we've got a couple different spots: I'm gon na have to braise up real quick doing this blinds with sloppy. Normally I start from the bottom and go up because he rises, but in this situation I don't want to overheat the dryer or the flare. So I'm going to start up here. Sometimes you got to do the opposite.

Yeah and the flare nuts are not tight. Yet they're just sitting there loose we'll, pull everything off and then put nylon. I saw a little funky all right, everything's, looking good. I love them naturally cool for a bit and then took a wet towel and just cleaned everything will do another inspection, I'm all about inspecting everything multiple times.

That's good, clean, braze joints, no problems everything up in there. So what I did was I threaded these guys. All the way up into the dryer just snug like this, but the tiniest bit of nylon right here and then threaded them down just to get the mating surface. So that way, the flare-nut doesn't bind on the copper and then I'm going to take and loose it again and put the tiniest bit on the threads and then just tighten it up and then I'll clean all the dialogue off of Matt, because they kind of spread Around he'll have the glove on and we'll clean it off and make it.
So it's not a messy messy mess. Well, yeah, just the tiniest bit of dialogue, a little bit goes a mile, get it snug on there and then we'll do the same thing up here. So this one's loose at the moment, it's the tiniest bit right here thread it down. Okay, now we got a tight fault, get it to where it's smug, I'm using leverage, I'm pushing against the dryer right here.

Click alright same thing on this use your wrenches to your advantage here, what's good about my list and then we'll put all the stuff off with the wet towel, make it look pretty everything's nice and snug dryers, going in the right direction, sight glasses on the right Side so now we're going to clean it up and then do a pressure test. So I've got some pressure in there. It's a nitrogen just spraying, this whole spot where it was leaking and I'm not seeing anything. No League just doesn't look like it's leaking from the bottom side.

Either looks like we're good. I don't think the camera can catch it from down here, but I can see it and it's not leaking. So I think we're good we're gon na call that one good go ahead and pull a vacuum on this bad boy. We're vacuuming down we're gon na.

Let it run for a little bit kind of clean up our messes just kind of try to organize a few things. I turned the rack back on because I turned it off while I was doing that, but I had just left that compressor on and mind you, like, I said, remember: I have that compressor disconnected the wha, oh yeah. I have the compressor contact or disconnected so the compressor won't start up, but all the silhouette valves are open, so we're pulling all the way through the system so we're just going to let it run for a bit pull down a good vacuum. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised that this unit has more leaks in it.

It's a big system good, so far, micron gauge is about 487, we're going to read. It run for a little bit longer and then do a decay test on it. But looking good, like you guys, saw I vacuum down through the true-blue hoses, but I'm going to charge with my manifold. So what I did was before I open these valves they're just twisted on here.

I'm vacuuming just the manifold down. So that way, I'm not opening up the system, which is in a vacuum right now to the high pressure that the manifolds so we're gon na. Let this sit and vacuum down the manifold and then once we get it down to where we need it. We're going to open it up and then charge the system appropriately.

This is how people have asked me before, like if you use the the true blue hoses or even the happy unmet, you know big hoses. How do you vacuum down your manifold? Well, this is how okay before I Pierce the system. If I didn't have valves right here, then I would have just balled out it off here and then just done my best to purge that little bit out before, but so we're going to let this sit and pull down and then when it comes time to charging The unit I went ahead and turned the breakers back off. So all the solenoid valves closed went ahead and connected the coil voltage to the compressor contactor and we're charging on the high side directly into the receiver and we're just going to let it take as much gas as it can.
We've already put in three pounds and then we'll finish off the charge by metering it in the low side, but we're just going to dump as much as we can into the high side first. So I've got just shy of 10 pounds in there, so we're gon na go ahead and shut it off. It's like we're right out of 10 right now, we're gon na go ahead and shut it off and then go ahead and turn on the breakers and let the system turn on and charge via the sight. Glass.

Now remember this unit, someone had cut out the head pressure control valve, so we don't need to add the winter charge, we're just going to clear the sight glass. That's all we're going to do just turning both on one over here see what our control turns on. At and we'll have to charge this guy, so it's gon na take a minute for everything to energize there. We go we're opening up watching our sight glass.

The whole like lots of splashing, pretty good right, but also this unit has got freezer evaporators, so they have electric heat, so it does have fan, delay switches. So the Box temp is probably pretty warm at this point, so we're gon na. Let it run for a bit and then we're the sight glass supporting me. So this is our beer walk and we got two coils everything's running seems like we're doing.

Okay, those are the coil right there, so we're just going to watch it come down to temp and then continue to charge it. So our cycle Isis snow, flash, the state of the refrigerant - should be a solid column of liquid, but you typically don't want to just blast refrigerant in there when the box tip is really high, because you can technically overcharge it not in all cases, but sometimes in Our case, my box temp right now is 40 degrees, so we're good to clear that sight glass at this point, so I'm gon na go to town, adding gasp, we're currently at 19 pounds 9 ounces, what we've charged so far, so we're going to keep going until We clear up and then go from there in a queer sightglass. My box is at about 35 degrees. It just turned on so we're looking pretty decent, nothing scaring me I'm just like I said, checking that pressure controls cut in and cut out all right.

We had a beer walking call where I had another technician out there and we diagnosed a refrigerant leak. We topped off the charge, got the unit running and I came back out to repair it. So we found the leak I confirmed and verified that it was leaking where the tech had said it was leaking. He was good with that.
I went ahead and recovered all the refrigerant out of the unit found a couple things if you noticed. I realized that the unit didn't have a head pressure control valve anymore, so we definitely didn't have to put as much gas as I pulled out of the system because the system had the full charge in it also found. You know there's a little bit of oil on that low pressure control capillary tube, but I could not find a leak for the life of me, so we're just going to keep an eye on that went ahead and change. The dryer added.

A new sight. Glass went with a flare dryer, which I like to do on the rooftop equipment, because then I, if at all possible, I don't have to drag my torches all the way up there just to change a dryer. If I'm doing like a leak, repair downstairs or a power head replacement or something like that, it makes it a lot easier makes it. So that way, you don't have to drag so much stuff up onto the roof.

So anyways went through all of that pull the vacuum on the unit. There really wasn't anything crazy technical about this. It was a little bit difficult trying to fix the the braze on the return Bend on the condenser just because it was really hard to get in there and clean it. But once I got it cleaned up, pretty good.

Just took patience and little strips of sandpaper and just took some time you just don't get a rush through it. Cleanliness is your best friend when it comes to that stuff. So do everything you can to make sure that it's a nice and clean and then that way when you go to braise the the leak you know it's just super easy so other than that. That was pretty much it no crazy tools that I really used on this job.

Nothing really worth mentioning yeah, just pretty much. Just a typical repair, really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch this leave me some feedback, send me an email, the hvac hour. Video is a gmail.com with any questions that you have. I also appreciate any feedback or criticism that you guys have.

I'm always looking to improve my my troubleshooting skills and the way that I do things so send me what you got. I really appreciate it and we will see you guys on the next one: okay, thanks.

43 thoughts on “Beer walk in refrigerant leak”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars nakia pringley says:

    Awesome video, keep them coming

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars TO DA MOON!!! says:

    Was your wrist set to 30 ft/lbs? Are you in Nepean ?

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rob Wallace says:

    Hi Chris.
    I have just found your channel and am enjoying watching the videos.
    Can I offer one piece of advice, as an electrical engineer myself when you do your fault finding on a tripped breaker you should as well as testing line to ground should be checking line to line. It’s very common and possible for a motor to fail line to line in the windings. I’ve not seen you testing line to line so might be worth those extra minutes to test before you turn on a breaker or disconnect. Hope that helps and keep up the great videos 👍

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Al Butterfield says:

    The hand putting the water in the pail looks like a female hand

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Richard Chivers says:

    Afteroon Chris, I think k i have watched nearly all of your video's over the past few months, I am not a heating engineer but work on fixing Scissor lifts and cherry pickers over here in the UK, I am interested in following you through the fault finding process, as I do similar things on the machines I work on. Do or can you do a short video explaining what, all the things you refer to are, like super heat , hi side low sidex tvh valve and all that stuff, as it would mean that people like me could understand why you do things the way you do.
    Really like the shows
    Regards Richard

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dave Anderson says:

    Retired now but was hvac/SMWIA installer for 30 years in Toronto ,18 in union ,installed many a roof top did all the assembly and start up person came ,sometimes from maker to start it up ,wow were some of them in a hurry .One of the problem we were getting in TO was wrong voltage ,voltage drop on roof too many units .really enjoy your video and your attitude .THANKS

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Slugbunny says:

    Electronics, thermodynamics, plumbing and brazing. Quite the job description!

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William J the poet says:

    And please tell me you cleaned them coils before you charged?

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jon g says:

    In regards to leaving power on for solenoids energised. Would using the magnets to hold them open work on this circuit? Are you in Barrhaven ?

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Randy mack says:

    I was digging out my torches, would I be better off with a small type A with valves near front like yours? or a Victor with B fittings with valves at bottom? looks like less potential clearance issues, so I could reach in farther, but slightly larger diameter, I already own both, & actually have a spare brand new Victor torch body with type B fittings, my torch with type A, only have 1 brazing tip & a cutting tip, the cutting tip is gummy from sitting 20+ years, the Victor stuff I have probably 10 different tips, plus numerous other larger things I used in welding. I use a different victor for brazing welding stuff as needed, but have so many tips, or put on a Smiths, or my huge one for big stuff.

    you mention you hate dragging torches to the roof? could you use say a 100' of 1/4" acetylene / oxygen line, with a quick connector on end, then you could pull hose up, instead of lugging tanks? & you just use your torch, with 12' of small hose as a "whip" with quick connector to attach to 100' line, might could even leave bigger tanks inside van? but with bigger tanks you have to have safety caps on when transporting. just thoughts. for laugh I probably have 250' or more of hose, between several torch set ups. Are you in Ottawa ?

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Benjamin Thorman says:

    I’m curious, how does inverting the recovery jug when you’re recovering into the vapor port help? Never done that before and wondering if I should start.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kenneth Lobo says:

    The new dryer u fixed was it not open to the atmosphere for a while? Is this okay? Service area Orleans??

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ejonesss says:

    if the compressor is functional and can compress you could use the compressor to pump the charge into the recovery tank it is a lot faster though you will have to bypass the low pressure cutoff and the thermostat Service area Nepean??

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Drake Daraitis says:

    God I love this channel. I commented the other day on another video but this shit is fascinating. How does someone go into HVAC work?

    PS: I fall asleep to a video almost nightly.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dustin H says:

    Good video! I dont do refrigeration but i enjoy learning new things from these vids! I remember installing a brand new 3.5ton /410a condenser and it had a leak in the same type of spot lol..brand new out of the box..I brazed it and ive never had a call back on that system. 6yrs later running great, i only go back for maintenance lol.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Marriage Partners Ministry says:

    It looked like a dirty condenser

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Marriage Partners Ministry says:

    Why do you turn the recovery tank upside down?

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jeff Johnson says:

    Do you use leaded solder? Do you use flux? Why do you run nitrogen through the system while brazing.

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shane Behm says:

    Call me a ,hack, or whatever, but I've never, never cleaned a ubend before brazing it. It holds Everytime.

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shane Behm says:

    "be very careful, you don't wanna burn a hole"…..whips out rose bud tip, with tons of fuel being used! Haha

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Lo Pan says:

    For a person not as experienced in brazing, would you suggest some of that gel heat block on the surrounding coils?

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ronald Zeigler says:

    Way not use a recovery company on large recovery?

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars LEO 1984 says:

    Best hvac tech on youtube👨🏻‍🏭

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars zhaoliang chen says:

    r12 condenser can we change p o e oil

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Martin S. says:

    What Solder Alloy was used. It seemed to melt faster than a harris brazing rod. Was it 95 tin 5 antimony? It has a melting point of 465 F.
    Also an important point is to have the evaporator somewhere vented to atmosphere while soldering or brazing then purge again after.

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hashim Waheed says:

    how did you find that leak? DYE?

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Viral Videos says:

    Chris, are the Tru Blu hoses worth the money? Service area Ottawa??

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Angelo Bruno says:

    N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N. N Are you in Kanata ?

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars kim edmond says:

    How did he get lucky enough that nothing that would burn was closer? Great job excellent video

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mcgaiver matt says:

    Get you a little small cylider styel wire brush for cleaning inside cooper pipe and put it on your drill

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Clifton Winkler says:

    Good stuff man always learning new things

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars NTXSER says:

    I was reading an article the other day that mentioned placing the site glass after the filter drier. Does it matter? Just curious….

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ricky Ramzan says:

    Notice the dirty condenser…

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RJ_Make says:

    Nice work. Very dirty condenser coil notwithstanding.. 🙂

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars brad mironik says:

    How much refrigerant did the system take? I don't work on equipment such as this but I do enjoy learning something new. Thanks.

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mojoe Murphy says:

    I'd like to see zoomlock fix that!

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars adventurish says:

    How'd you get that infinity gantlet

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars truthsmiles says:

    Did you put the old refrigerant back or charge with virgin?

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars OcRefrigeration , Hvac & Electrical Video's. says:

    Hi Chris,

    Good Video ! Just a few things i do Different.

    1) ( Ftngot = for the new guys out there ) that Torch tip looked a Little
    large. looked like a #3. too big in my opinion. i could see you were
    dangerously close to blowing holes in things. for the new guys out there, it takes alot /years of experience
    to go in Large, hot and fast like that. YOu will have to practice
    on " U " Bends to see what works for you. i'd recommend starting with a #1 Tip and a
    little more finess, or a #2 Tip max. i Would have probably used a #2 and Less Heat/ a closer flame.
    Do What Works for YOU ! Maybe , Practice on a Junk A-coil. poke some holes in it, cuts, scrapes etc and see if u can fix them.
    it Worked for Chris here – But, id recommend Less heat if u are New.

    2) Flare Driers on a liquid line – i'm still on the fence about it. NO Flares in Evaps for sure !
    i Weld Everything. i Don't think i'll change.

    3) when charging the system — Remember what u pulled out — and drop 1/2 of that into
    the High side / or liquid side WITH the Liquid line solenoid energized,
    but the contactor coil voltage disconnected. thus Letting the Low side
    come up in pressure so it is out of a vacuum as soon as possible.
    i Have a Golden Rule — NEVER LEAVE THE LOW SIDE IN A VACUUM WHILE
    CHARGING. at a minimum u want it at least in a positive pressure
    a.s.a.p. after evacuating. The longer its in a vacuum with no pump on it
    it will pull in moisture if their is a Low side leak in a Old Evap
    somewhere. not good. it helps to eliminate air and moisture issues.
    YOu can Then click off the breaker when low side is in a positive pressure to
    close liquid line solenoid.

    4) i Would Have Put on a Dust Mask and Blown the Shit out of that Condenser With co2 Gas BEFORE start up. yikes, i'm suprised head pressure was not off the charts. u could possibly overcharge a system with a dirty condenser like this one was. Ftngot – Blow em out good before start up. it will also come down in Temperature quicker with a clean condenser & you will be out of there sooner. Win,win.

    All in all though. a Pretty awesome video !

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars OcRefrigeration , Hvac & Electrical Video's. says:

    if You Gave this Video a Thumbs down — Please put the reason below

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kerry Davis says:

    Great video! I enjoy watching quality work!

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Frank Mashione says:

    Nice repair hopefully the rest of that coil holds up

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gabriel Buss says:

    Did you clean the condenser coil on that visit or did you have to go back?

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