This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Today's call is on a set of glycol units, they're saying one of them's not well, maybe both of them we're gon na have to test to see this one is at 39 and that one's giving me an alarm it's out, 55 degrees. So we're open these up and check them out. Supposedly they have the beer company out here and confirm that all the pumps are working and everything is good with those.

So it looks like it's a refrigeration problem, we're going to start with the one flashing and error code and it's that one. The unit has a queen convinced, but we are reading for 53 degrees. There's quite a bit of heat blowing out of this. But that's to be expected, i liquid line - and it's not too hot, but my suction lines, not very cold at all.

It's cool, but it's not very cold, so we're this is a critically charged system. It only holds 11 ounces of refrigerant, but we are gon na. Have to put service gauges on it, but we use the smart probes because we get the least amount of loss with those. So we'll put some gauges on here and see what the pressures look like.

I'm really blown away that this unit doesn't have a receiver. We have all the room in the world to have a receiver, but I'm surprised anyway, so we're gon na put some gauges on it, something that I noticed since I got here when I first got here those a bunch of boxes, stacked right here - and there was A massive amount of heat I mean, I felt a lot of heat being discharged and once I removed those and opened up this panels, the the temperature started dropping a little bit. I mean you know about 10 degrees. So far I went ahead and called tech support, and this unit has an automatic expansion valve.

So it's kind of acts like capillary to the pressures. Don't change too much. They do a little bit, but so at 80 degree ambient. We should be about 12.5 psi over 160 and about 75 degree ambient.

We should be about 11.5 over 130 right now, we're running just about 80 degrees and we're about 13 over 140. I'm not worried with those pressures. Those pressures actually look good, so I have a feeling that this unit right here was just because they were blocking it, so we're gon na let this one run for a little while, because the unit next to us does have a problem and I'll jump onto that. One right now, all right, so this is our other unit, and this one is, we don't even have to try.

There was oil everywhere when we opened up this one's literally sitting right next to that one, there was oil everywhere, so we cleaned up the oil and yeah. We cleaned up the loyal and you can actually see the leak right here. I don't even have to put any soap bubbles on there anything! That's! If I get the camera to focus there, you go look at that. We didn't even have to put bubbles on it.

It's showing itself already so we're gon na have to change a service valve more than likely. I don't I don't know if I can weld on that or not it's really not worth it. I probably have a service valve on my truck, so I'll go look and see, but yeah we haven't even opened up the porch yet put our gauges on here. Like I said, you could just see we dried it up, but there's just aisle everywhere that when I pulled the insulation off it was dripping the oil.

So I have a feeling that the other unit was just blocked and this is the one that was actually down all right. So we didn't even bother putting the service gauges on this unit because we saw the obvious leak, so we went ahead and recovered the charge. I happen to have a new rotor, lock valve in the van, so I get have to run to the supply house to get a pushing so we're just cutting out this old motor lock felt when on silver solder, when it's that bad and it's kind of pitted And stuff there's no point trying to fix that just kind of replace the whole thing. So we've got our new valve right here, we're gon na kind of mock-up what we need.

I was missing a bushing off the sand that a minute and then I pretty bent some copper lock this up an idea. What we need want to cut cut it out when I'm going to cut offer a lot of times I'll mark, but my cut mark is right below don't have to clean the marker off there there's also inside this rotor lock now there's a and we do need To replace that, but I'm not going to replace it until after we're done crazy, wind up putting people walk in compound on there. We put the new o-ring in at the very last minute. Just chances to the right was actually dropping in tempering good.

The condenser blocked off things are where the message I'll end up swaging this right here, so we'll just kind of get an idea where it needs to be that's going about right. There cut it here and then we'll swage it all right. So I sweat in the dryer real quick, no big deal, that's good. I wish I would've gotten that film, because oil fire started all the oil shot out and caught everything on fire.

But luckily I have everything prepared at a wet towel was able to. You know instantly put it out no big deal, but you always got to be prepared for that stuff. So we're gon na go ahead and do this now because we're doing two dissimilar metals, metals, steel to copper. We need to use a silver bearing solder with a lot of content of silver in it, so I'm using 56 % silver I've got flecks on there.

Silver stay, self-pace, flux, okay, I prefer these versus the rods that already have the flux on. I don't know why. I'm just old-school also, though, there's another bridge joint right above here and right here, since I'm gon na be in there with the heat I'm just gon na silver solder. It all real, quick, there's, no point in doing a bunch of different, especially on this one, because if I tried to do 15 % there, it would end up sucking down or just we're gon na try to get this braised up real, quick, all right.

So heat rises got ta watch out because I got a big fat. Sj chord right here start with the bottom, which happens to be the steel one anyway, silver solder. The trick is to make like in Vegas that grabs your hands as when it happens. Let it go, don't fight it now.

You're, fine, there's a problem there, that's not speak and it's almost like the flexes might have overheated have been oil or some should take no problem. That's what professor now we're just going to clean everything up and inspect our welds with the mirror, make sure everything looks good. This is the o-ring for this guy. Also, when you're done braising, these I like to take some sandpaper sand out, make sure all the Flex is off of there use a steel brush and inspect your wells.

Everything looks good, so so we're good. But what I like to do is take this nylon. O-Ring put some my log in the bag mix it up and then press it into there with my log on it. Okay, so I took a little bit of nylon and I put it on the backside of this nut.

It makes for kind of a messy situation, but it lubricates the nut so that way it spins freely and nothing binds up. Then I put a little bit of nylon on set it up there and twist it on. We've got the seal in that. Make sure that you get a nice good thread on there? You don't want it to go on difficult at all I'll show you a trick for tightening these rotor lock valves on them.

We do. Did you take your channel locks and you're going to torque it down to where it's snug, but before you do that you're going to bend it the opposite way ever so slightly, because there's always going to be some twists? That happens when you tighten these things on so get it snug, okay and then, when I go to do my final tighten its going to straighten the valve back out for one more time, nice and good. So now we got a tight seal. Good Teflon oh ring in there everything's nice and clean we'll put insulation on that.

We're gon na pull a vacuum on this guy now, so we're just doing a single hose setup for this little guy that waking up my micron gauge. On the other end, the system everything's, nice and tight when I'm vacuuming down, I put on my service caps too, because these the packings on them they always leave. They never leave free, so we're currently pulling through with the ballast open on the other side, we'll let it run for a minute. So we hit some microns, then we'll drop it towards the palace.

We're gon na go ahead and leak check. My welds false alarm doesn't look like they have any leaks, they're almost spot-on pressures, mind you were under a heavy load, we're just going to watch the box or the glycol units out. Let's talk about this glycol unit, so we have a condensing unit here and back here. We have a back of glycol.

It's full of glycol to about this point right here right to the bottom of this overflow and there's a heat, exchanger or and evaporator in there, and all it's doing is taking the heat out of the glycol. Basically, so what we do is see those lines they go up into the attic all the way over to the beer walkin, which is on the other side of that wall. They wrap around the beer lines and they go underground into the bar and all that they're doing with these glycol units is they're, chilling the beer lines, they're, keeping them cold from the beer walking to the taps out in the bar. That's the whole purpose of having these glycol units, so this unit has a expansion valve, but it's an automatic expansion valve, so it acts just like a capillary tube.

So your pressures really don't change very much. Your head pressure might change a little bit depending on ambient, but your suction pressure mainly is gon na be around 12 or 13 psi, so 5, 10 to 13 psi and it's gon na stay there. So it acts just like an R 12 or r134a capitate system. So we're gon na go ahead and watch this guy now mind you, I did have to add a little bit of extra gas, because I put a bigger liquid line, dryer just to compensate a little bit but yeah.

Everything else is looking good, just laundering everything. So you can't just weigh in the charge and walk away when you put a bigger dryer on there, you need to make sure everything looks good and it's operating like a Chevy we're just gon na watch. This thing come down. They did my best to clean up all the oil in here.

Everything else is good. Put the caps back on tighten up the packing on this before I put this cap on, everything is good, nice, cold suction, it's at 40. It's set for 31. I think it's gon na take some time, but we've made some good progress.

It's been about 10 minutes since I've turned it on. We've dropped quite a bit in town, so we're looking good we're gon na go ahead and start wrapping. This guy up 39° got it all back together. We're gon na go ahead and get on out of here tell him to keep an eye on it.

So, to recap: we had a service called that the beer was pouring to warm out of one side of their taps. Okay, so this particular restaurant has taps on both sides of their bars, hence why they have two glycol units. So when I arrived, I found that both of the units were high in temp, but the right side unit. There was a box shoved in front of the condenser, so we removed that box and we started to see a noticeable temperature drop.

I went ahead and put service gauges on that unit, noticed that the pressures were fine, so I let it be and jumped on the Left unit, of which I found a refrigerant leak at we didn't even have to put service gauges on the left unit. We could literally see the oil everywhere and we could see the bubbling of the oil. We didn't even have to put soap bubbles on there. It was immediately obvious, so we went ahead and recovered the charge repaired.

The leak. What we did was we changed the suction side service valve. Okay, I happen to have one of those in my truck. It's a common failure part.

So we went ahead and replaced that got the unit operational and watched it come down to temperature. This really was not a difficult one at all, just a little time consuming because we had to you know, go through all the proper refrigeration practices, but other than that that was it okay, I want to say thank you guys very much for taking the time to Watch this, I really appreciate it any questions. Please either leave them down in the comments or send me an email to HVAC our videos at gmail.com, and I guess that's it. We will see you guys on the next one: okay,.