This was a service call on a Ruud package unit not cooling, I found that the unit had a bad condenser fan motor and the compressor was off on thermal overload. I replaced the motor and cooled off the compressor until the thermal overload reset. Everything else checked out ok
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This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. So today we have a service call on a rude packaged unit. This is a three-ton packaged unit and we actually installed this just about a month ago. So it's kind of odd that we have a problem already: it's families not running, I don't feel a crazy amount of heat, there's some oil or something right here.
This is what I see when I open it up. You've got 208 coming in to a weight going out, contactors pulled in and I got nothing so we're gon na have to figure out why we don't have a condenser fan, motor and or a compressor running at the moment. Condenser fan motors not running, I did go, feel the motor and it is hot. So we're gon na test the motor right now to see what we get we're going to go from the power leg to the common on the capacitor we have to under Nate volts, and we don't have a running condenser fan motor coming on.
Let's dive into that capacitor and see if you have a problem with the cap, so we're gon na be energized and test that guy out okay, so we got this guy disconnected and we're gon na test from calman should be a 45 and it is comment yeah. It's 5 micro, fair, that's odd, because it doesn't seem like it's bad, so this socks, I'm sitting there looking into this this unit, doesn't have a high pressure control. You can see the jumper right there. It's the brand new freakin rude.
You know I got the condenser family pulled out because the condenser fan motors bad, but hopefully I can get that compressor to thermally reset because I don't see and I'm looking to make sure I'm not missing something. I don't see a high pressure controlling here. There's only a low pressure control man that really sucks, hopefully that compressors not bad or frustrating, so I've got no continuity across the compressor terminals. Their windings, I'm gon na go ahead and cool this guy off.
I've got my cool press room, speak a nice steady flow of water. Over that thing, I really like that cool presser tool, I'll put a link in the video notes, and I got no affiliation with the guys but seems like a pretty cool tool. Basically, just gon na watch this until the windings. Basically, we shouldn't take too long what we're gon na go ahead and cool the whole head off as long as I get that to reset, then I'm gon na go get the condenser fan motor and get them going, but I wanted to see that reset before I Drive all the way to the supply house and find out what I need a compressor to so all right and we reset, but I'm gon na go ahead and let it continue to cool it off, because that compressor is pretty hot, so we're gon na pull it Beyond just the overload and try to cool the whole body at the compressor off all right, so what we're gon na do here is assuming that we don't know which one is our common start and run we're gon na do a test to figure that out.
So we have three windings. This is a single-phase compressor. Okay, so we're gon na go ahead and test across and we're gon na get some readings and were going to analyze those numbers. Okay, so we're gon na go from red to black red. The black gives us 1 ohm of resistance. Okay, so we're going to go red to purple oops. That gives us 2.6 8 ohms of resistance, okay and then we're going to go from purple to black and see what that one gives us that one gives us 1.76 ohms of resistance, so our biggest resistance value is gon na be across our run. In our start winding - and that was purple and red, so what that tells you is that the leftover color is your common.
So then what we can do is we can take so black is gon na, be our common red is gon na, be our run. So now you see, we have 1.0 one ohms of resistance and then black to purple purple is gon na be our start. We have one point: seven, six ohms of resistance. Now we're going to compare that to the Copeland mobile app and see what it says.
Our resistance value should be okay, so we're going to go to the Copeland mobile app enter the model. Number Z, P. 3. 1 k.
5E PFD. This is our model number right here. It's an air conditioning 230 volt single-phase, we're gon na go to electrical we're gon na, go to winding resistance and we're gon na see that our run winding should have a point. Eight nine ohms of resistance and our start winding, should have one point: six, five we're within range, so we're gon na call that good and we're gon na go ahead and go get our condenser fan motor now all right.
I just wanted to draw this out on paper and make it make a little more sense for you, guys: okay, three terminals, on that compressor, when we measured from one terminal to another on our meter, we measured the resistance value. We got two point: six, eight ohms of resistance on another two. We got one point: seven, six ohms of resistance on the last two. We got one point now mind you there's only three terminals here, but we're measuring between them.
So that's why I'm saying two: two. Two, okay, so the one that we get the terminals that we get the highest resistance value across what you're doing is you're measuring from your from one end of your start, winding to the other end of your run winding. So you know that those two terminals, one of the two, is going to be run and one of them is going to be start. You've only got three terminals there total.
So that means that the third terminal that you didn't measure on is going to be your common terminal. Once you figure out your common terminal, then you're going to measure from your known common to one of them and you're going to get the resistance value of one point. Seven six then you're going to measure from your common to the other terminal and you're going to get one point o your start winding is going to have a higher resistance value. Okay, so from common to start is going to be the highest resistance from common to run is going to be the lowest resistance. So you now know that the 1.0 ohms of resistance is your run winding. Okay, so that means from this terminal to this terminal is 1.0 ohms. We already know this is common, so that means this is run and the last terminal is going to be your start terminal. So now, from common to start, you get one point.
Seven: six: from common to run, you get 1.0 ohms. Hopefully that clarifies and makes sense a little bit more see this pole. Presser tools really cool cuz. It has a magnet, but it allows the water to come out of this area right here via up inside there and the magnet allows it to sit so that way the water blows.
You know, while it still magnetized to the compressor, super nice little tool. So I got the new motor in here I got ta admit I was a little frustrated because I got an OEM motor but okay, the OEM cap was narrower, wasn't as fat and it had this bracket on it. But when you take that bracket off he can fit a normal, so I was worried. I was going to have to figure out a way, but look at that.
That's awesome. I dig that good job Reed ream whatever so we're gon na get this thing wired up, and hopefully this compressor starts up and we'll see what else we can do so. My units working really well again, it's under a heavy load right now, but the password fit in there, nice and good everything else. Wired back up.
I still got ta put my little connector right here. One of the things I will said it's kind of silly about these rut, units or rude units. Are you say it is pressure probes are there whatever, but to get temperatures you got to get inside here you got to lift the condenser fan motor over. So, that's why I have that little grommet out I've only got two screws and the condenser fan motor.
So I can get my temperature clamps on there. So we're gon na check everything out and actually looks like it might have a temperature clamp on the wrong spot. Yeah I got the temp clamp on the discharge line, so I got to get in there and fix that. So we are running my condenser fan.
Motor is allowed to run 1.5 amps and we're running one point over five, so we're within range on our condenser fan motor. It's not over ambient. So now we're going to let the system stabilize and calm down and then we'll finish diagnosing. I think I corrected my temperature probes.
Let's see if I did, it was my temperature claps. Actually this wasn't paying attention suction land looking on yeah, so I corrected my temperature clamps, so we're just gon na let the system run for a while. It's under a really heavy load right now, let's see what my it's about: 98, a hundred degrees and look at my returned rival. Eighty-Five degrees, wet, bulb temperature 66, so we're gon na let the system stabilize we're under a heavy heavy load.
This thing's been down for a day, so we're gon na. Let it run I'm gon na monitor for a bit and I'll come up with a full report on measure quick and then I'll also go ahead and get some electrical readings off this unit to with measured wave of time alright. So everything is looking really good. We've got our system operating like it should be sorry, I'm trying to get a better image there. We start back over and out to our measurements. You know we're all within range here and there it's nothing I'm concerned about. This is a brand new unit. We installed like a month ago, so I'm pretty confident everything still good.
I also know I didn't measure it this time, but I do know that we have really good total external static on this unit. It's running below a half-inch, so yeah everything else is looking good. I don't know why the electrical measurements disappeared or whatever they. I have them in there, but yep units looking good, so we're gon na go ahead and wrap it up, and here I just have a printout of the measure, quick report, so you guys can take a look at it.
To recap: we had a service call. There was a no cooling call on a little free ton package unit and I did mention in the video we had just installed this unit a month ago, so I was a little bit worried as to why the unit went down. What I found was that the unit had a bad condenser fan motor okay. This was a rude packaged unit, it's a pretty decent quality unit, but obviously they lost a fan motor and actually, I guess I should have shown it on the video.
But what happened to the motor was the bearing like it blew out or went bad or whatever the motor itself was locked up when it was under a load. But there was a lot of grease coming out of the bearing basically so something happened inside the motor anyways went ahead and went through all the tests to confirm that the motor was bad. Also showed you guys how to do the compressor winding test, because I was concerned, the compressor did not have a high pressure control protecting it, so it did go off on thermal overload now. If that happens, a lot eventually it'll damage the compressor.
So that's not something. I'm thankful that the compressor was able to reset and I'm gon na, look into seeing if I can get a high pressure control for that unit. The only downside is is that I would have to screw it on to the Schrader port, or I would have to recover the charge of the unit to put a proper pressure control on there. So I'll have to think about how I want to do that, but anyways.
I digress so also showed you guys the Copeland app and how to confirm whether or not we had the right resistance values on the compressor, okay, and that app is Copeland mobile. You can download it at any of the app stores, whether it be Apple or Android. It's a free, app. Ok, the app that I was using to diagnose the unit or to just confirm the readings was measure quick, that's another free app! You guys are capable of downloading on either the Android or the Apple Store. So that's a free one. I was also using the field. Peace, JobLink probes, with measure quick, app I'll, have a link in the video show about that and yeah. I think that's.
It also wanted to kind of show you guys how I drew out that compressor winding paper right there. So that way, you can confirm what you know if you didn't know which one was common start and run, it's really easy to figure that out. So hopefully, that helps you guys out really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos. Throw me some comments down in the video.
Send me an email to hvac our videos at gmail.com, really appreciate your guys's feedback, and I guess we will see you guys on the next one. Okay.
Very informative vid, I been on a marathon with your videos lol thank you for sharing Service area Kanata??
Hi I have RTU TRANE 67000 btu with TXV , where I can find the designed subcooling?
Great job bro! Very thorough
Don't be Ruud is how you pronounce it. Like Rood. Not Rud like Mud.
Rapid Unexpected Unplanned Disassembly. Interesting brand
That magnetic garden hose attachment is cool
Been a while since I installed one of those units. I see the sticker near the condensate drain.
Do these units still have an internal p-trap built into the tubing behind the panel there?
Do more measure quick reports on your videos! That is fun/interesting to see.
It looks so new I’m surprised it’s broken
And their cousin is called SCREEM
There's a reason why we call these units CRUUD
Did I miss something ? I would of added a aftermarket HPS.
Ruuds are hot garbage
Your drawing and explanation was confusing. I am a visual learner (a schematic learner), and so that's the way I teach. It would have been clearer if you labeled the 3 terminals with the color and drew in the windings. When you explained how you got the 2.68 ohms, you moved your pen (pointer) directly from the run terminal to the start terminal (moving CW). You actually could have better explained that you measured back through the run and start windings by moving your pointer (CCW) through the run and start winding by way of the common…RUN to COM to START.
Outstanding video! Thanks!
I know your videos are not for other HVAC guys; who already know this.
Yes the condenser is rude lol Are you in Barrhaven ?
There should be two more ports inside the condenser.
Yeah I hate how they designed those units. About 60% of our maintenance customers have them, kinda frustrating. You gotta go in the condenser or the blower cover for your SH/SC. Those JL3's are killer though! Cuts time by like 15 min. I don't know what I'd do without them now that I'm used to them. Super easy to inspect the coil on those though. Are you in Nepean ?
In Tucson we had several recently installed Rheem units do the same thing only they were split systems. Looks like we got a run of bad Rheem/Ruud motors going on. Thankfully they had high pressure switches. About 50% of Tucson A/C"s are Rheems. Service area Barrhaven??
Guys wish me luck! I'm about to start at my first commercial HVAC position next week. I got my 2 year degree in HVAC/R last year, and I spent all of 2020 working residential heating and cooling. Both service and install work. This is my jump into light commercial work (servicing/installing rooftops), I wanna get my experience up and my income up!
I don't see your store website on your videos. would like to see what you got.
Rsd is great for refrigeration parts but their hvac line really sucks, installed lots of rudds and every single one had a failure within 3years Are you in Orleans ?
Its crazy😬 I just came across a ruud package unit that had a similar issue. Only difference is that the compressor went out and we had to haul it up a ladder
When’s your cooling season over December ?
You’re very thorough. I appreciate the time u take to make these videos. Very helpful. Thanks a lot!!…
So I’m assuming that’s all free of charge right😅
Using a meter to identify windings in a compressor or motor is one of the first things I learned in HVAC.
Hey, this video was helpful. Im still in school. I graduate in December. Was actually hoping you could answer a couple questions for me in regards to wiring the capacitor and the order of testing for resistance. If not thats fine. Informative video. ✌
I've been doing HVACR for about 8 years now and every video of yours I watch I learn something new. Keep up the good work!
Gotta love warranty work on new shit.
seem great to know. as i im doing HVAC online training. thour not sure if be able to do hand ons with college work. learning most importation part and understanding things.had to get my self a book for it. was around $200, say online training 4 month.
Just completed a repair on our York, 3 ton residential heat pump last month. Symptom: Compressor not running. I checked the supply voltages and start/run capacitor and they were good. Checked coil resistance and it was good. Powered the unit back up, and it ran without problems. Then, several days later it stopped cooling again. Each time, I couldn't find anything wrong. After going back and forth for a few weeks, it happened. The condenser fan acted as if it was seized. I tried to move the blades with a plastic stick, and it fought back, humming loudly. If I banged on the top, the fan sometimes would start.
Here's where it gets weird. De-energized, the fan would spin freely. Eh??? Apparently, at random, the fan would fight itself and not spin. A new motor solved the problem. Apparently, my compressor also had some sort of thermal overload.
I have no knowledge of electronic equipment and based in UK England where we don't use any air conditioning units unless in big government offices . I really enjoy watching your videos and real pleasure watching someone whom knows what they are doing. Keep up the good work and I will definitely keep watching 😆
All those floating wires in give me the chills. Always wondering why don't they use some decent cable management and terminal blocks in the control cabinets and some multicore cable zip tied to the construction from the cabinet to the fans and compressors?
Is it a pain to do warranty jobs? In the context of paperwork, sending parts back, etc….
Man..yours is about the best hvac channel ever Service area Nepean??
Thanks, I didn’t know there was a Copland mobile app. Downloaded the app.
Looks bare bones empty compared to a messy full board of a trane Are you in Ottawa ?
It might have been easier to understand for someone new, to have drawn in the winding symbols on your compressor diagram, showing they go from common to run and common to start. This makes it very clear at a glance why the highest resistance is from start to run. All your videos are very good that I have seen. I often find while training inexperienced techs, things I think are obvious are not so much to them. You explain things very thoroughly I noticed. I really like that compressor cooling hose attachment. It sure beats trying to rig up the hose and get the water to flow evenly.
thanks for the winding info, & apps, & now on to next lesson by you, that you-tube suggests, you have no idea how much your helping me learn & comprehend this field
Try turning on Auto-generated English Subtitles 🙂 "So today we have a service call on a rude packaged unit this is a three-ton"….
Thanks for making this video. We installed a RUUD RRNL package unit back in late 2013 and while it has run pretty efficiently (quit heating once in the winter due to a faulty overheat sensor) it decided to stop cooling last night (right when we hit a 3 day mini heatwave here in So Cal). I was able to diagnose that the Fan side of the capacitor was reading 0.28 nano farads while the compressor side was reading 48 micro farads. The next challenge is finding someone who actually stocks a 50/10 370V dual capacitor as it is an odd rating and I don't want to have to fudge it by installing a 10 uf single run capacitor just for the fan. The local AC shops don't want to sell them to the public so I just bought one online for approx. $20 on EBay. Fingers crossed we will be back up and cooling in a day or so.
You can measure windings easier by calling them a b and c and measuring ab ac bc then add resistances up by anything with an a b then c and like you said start had the most resistance and common has the least
Moral of the story. Never install ruud's lol. Theyre cheap and simple but everyone ive installed ive had to go back and service them. And not because of the install but parts they use are cheap and replaced a lot them