This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Today's service call is a carrier package unit. That's not working properly walk up to the unit. The complaint is no cooling.

It's pretty hot. I've got no cooling on the unit right now. Cadetship ammeter is not running so we're gon na open up the electrical and get digging into it to see what we can find. I like this model depends.

I like them, but I don't I like it, because you can get into the electrical section without you know bypassing the condenser, but I also don't like it because I have the game. Okay, we're gon na start by checking low voltage. I'm gon na go from R to see that's rad. To comment on the transformer we have 25 volts.

So then I'm going to go from C to y1. That's a call for cooling. I got nothing see. Why now beam C G is in George 25 volts, so we are not even calling for cooling.

We need to go investigate why you should be so. I need to go down and look at the burnt stuff. Okay, these guys are on an automation system. So I have no access to that right now, so we're gon na go ahead and jump this out.

We're gon na go from our the y1 and we turned right on, but all I know they have me on the wrong looks to be okay. The compressor started up so we're gon na get some pressure probes on this guy convince your fan, motors, running compressor sections here, we'll get this opened up. Okay, so I think they misled me on this AC I'll show you guys the report, but this one's running. Okay, it's running a little high on the head pressure.

I'm thinking we might have a dirty condenser a little bit, maybe the inner condenser, because this is a split row. I believe - and you know it's a little milked up the things but you'll see on the report. It's running good, it's just a little high in head pressure and the thermostat is not calling. I was able to go ahead and log into the system.

It's a bay web. You know Internet thermostat system, so I want. I got the credentials from facilities and logged in and checked it out, so I'm gon na move on to the next one. I think they're gon na end up having a couple AC problems here, so we're just we'll just start with one and work our way through.

Here are pressures you can see that you know nothing too crazy, a little bit high on the head pressure, but I really didn't have to do very much on this unit at all, so we're gon na go ahead and move on to the next one. Okay. So my next one is a seven and a half ton carrier package unit. Again I'm kind of just going through these ACS because I don't know which one's the problem so I'm able to log into their Bay web thing.

Like I said, and this one is showing a 79 degree building temp when it's set for, I believe, 75 or 74, so we're going to dive into this one, this one, the condenser, looks a little wonky, pretty dirty looking but we'll see. And again, this is a split row. Every one of these units up here has a split row condenser. So I can only imagine the insides really dirty, but we'll start by opening up the electrical panel and testing initial impressions.

The contactors look pretty toasted, but I mean that, doesn't you know they're just arcing nothing's jumping out at me as of yet compressors this one's warm this one's warm, but it could just be the sunlight that was warming them up. So we're gon na check for control, voltage and start there. Okay, the first place that we're gon na start is we're gon na test, our to see C as in Charlie. So that would be power to comment for 24 volts and then we're also going to chest common 2x common 2x as our compressor lockout circuit.

So if any one of the compressor lockout boards is locking out a compressor, we will have 24 volts between X and C, but first we're gon na check our to see, see what we get. That's all art to see. We have no voltage our to ground, no voltage we're gon na test power coming into the contact. No voltage.

One leg has two away: there's one leg, there's one way: something's going on with the power. So when I open up this next, Richard start in there now test for power line 1 to line 2, we have 201 volts to degree nothing from load, one to load, two load to to load three 208 load, one load, three 208, so we're gon na have An open we have 208 volts across the news. Number we've got a blown number one fuse we're not going to just replace the fuse and turn the power back on we're going to home out everything in the system. At this point, we can go ahead and shut off power and we're going to look for any direct shorts to ground before we go any further.

What I did was I went on the line and load side of every contactor and tested to ground to see. If I had any continuity - and I don't - I spun the condenser fan motors - they worked, I spun the evaporator blower motor. It worked. I tested the run cap for the condenser fan motors and actually you know I didn't because I just realized I tested that cap, but look down here.

People have disconnected the run caps and put aftermarket motors in but anyways. So at this point I show no direct shorts to ground we're going to go ahead and replace these fuses and start over, so we still have power in the load side of this. Before I stick my fingers in there it's very common for these disconnects to fail. We're going to test to make sure we don't have a direct like a broken leg in the disk and nothing nothing, because I'm going to stick my hand in and set excuses.

So you always want to hear got new fuses so again, we'll test real, quick on the load side, disconnected ground, no resistance to ground, no resistance to ground no resistance drawn. So we have no direct shorts on the load side well, but that doesn't mean no shorts, because you also have the load side of the contactors, but I checked those too so no resistance to ground so we're gon na very carefully fire. This unit up, I have to blow her open for a reason, because I want to see that turn on I'll turn it off before we let it run for a while. So next thing I'm gon na do it's connect 24 volts, so it won't automatically start up and then all energize everything by pushing in the contactors.

So nothing blew up in my face by turning it on. Let's go ahead and test voltage, so we have three-phase power. Coming into the unit now we're gon na very carefully energize the contactors see if we have any problem, that compressor was fine, that compressor was fine. Indoor blower was fine, but the indoor blower motor has a noise.

Metallic noise Belt was a little bit too tight. There's like a metallic bearing noise in there, like the bearings right now, the motor sheave or pulley is also going bad. It's got some pretty good grooves in it it's kind of hard to see, but I can feel I'm really good. It's grieved out really strong.

So that's a problem too. So at this point the end or blower motor is running. Both compressors are running. All condenser fan motors are running, so I'm going to start testing current, drawn things, seeing if anything's over amping, I'm also a little skeptical at the disconnect, switch and I'll show you why, if you look, it doesn't look like the knives have engaged all the way.

It looks like they're sticking out of the dismantling for them to go in, so that could also be a cause of use. We can test that by using our infrared temperature gun. If I had a thermal imager we go to, but usually you can see a temperature high temperature, basically because it so the fuse that was blown was lying. One fuse.

If I take my heat gun and I'm gon na point it right at the night, it's 126 on that knife go to the next knife. It's 106 go to the next one. It's 106, the knives that I'm talking about our the disconnect night. Okay, so, basically right behind this guard right here is a knife that makes contact with the terminal for light one and it's not making good contact and it's getting really hot and it more than likely caused the fuse blow.

So we've got a bad disconnect switch here. Is our problem so again I'll show you so I'm pointing right at the knife. It's 124 degrees pointing right at the next one, it's 106 104. So we have a bad disconnect switch here.

If we had a thermal-imaging camera, you would see it too. You would see a big orange blow out of that litter hole or line one terminal. So that's where we're at the unit itself I'll show you guys the refrigerant pressures for circuit, one in circuit, two they're, both showing high head pressure and that condensers because of it. I guarantee that the inner condenser needs to be washed at by needs to be split, because I'm showing higher head pressure on the second stage, which I believe is the inner condenser all right.

So here's my test in for the first and second stage of this unit. Nothing too crazy. Obviously, the head pressures a little bit high, we're going to switch to the second stage right now and you guys are gon na see that you know the head pressures a little bit high on that too, but that's pretty much it so we're gon na I'm gon Na get them going, so I can jump on the other ACS right now. So what I'm gon na do is I'm going to de-energize the disconnect and I'm gon na force those knife shut and then turn the power back on and then go from there and then we'll come back out and replace the disconnects, which I can't stop on this.

Because it changed that disconnects which is gon na, take me a couple hours to go, get it and come back and put it in, and I got to get these other ACS going too. So we're just going to get them operational and then we'll come back and change them. When we slow down a little bit so watch those polls. I D energized power, I'm going to test it real, quick to make sure before I stick.

My hands in this live disconnect switch. I'm gon na test line 1 line 2 line 3. Nothing and we'll test the ground, nothing, so our powers, D energized. So our problem is those disconnect poles.

With the D energized circuit, I'm going to take an electrical resistant screwdriver. I'm going to push that pole in let's see if we can get any action going on watch it. We got a little bit of action, not much put a little bit out of all three, so we should have a little bit better terminal there and we can even turn it off. You can get in there and kind of scratch it up too.

You usually flip it on and off a few times and then I'll try pushing it in one more time a little bit of action out of it. Okay, so they're engaged as best as they can by turning it on and off you're kind of scratching. The surface too, you could, I guess, get in there with some sand cloth or something I mean it has to be changed. Inevitably, okay, but this will get us by temporarily.

So it is not perfect but 1:08 104. So it's a little bit better. We're still going to change the disconnect, but this will let me go troubleshoot the other units because they got a couple there. So that's what we're gon na leave this guy right now, we'll close it up and I'm gon na go ahead and because of a sound, the metallic sound that I heard from the indoor blower in there.

I'm gon na change the blower motor, the pulley, put a new belt split, the condenser and clean it put a new disconnect switch and then will troubleshoot further from there and then, when I submit my quote, the customer is going to know that I need to replace These things, those things I just mentioned first and then I can further diagnosed after that to see if there's anything else, wrong, I'm not giving them out. This will solve all your problems. We need to get that stuff changed and then further troubleshoot, and this is another thing too, about the fuse blowing. You know, I didn't see anything make the fuse blow at this moment, so you just have to use you know your skills and go through and find things that could potentially cause the fuse to blow that disconnect on line one which is the fuse that was blown Is very suspect, but we can't just say that that's going to solve our problem to move on, okay, I have to leave myself a buffer there, just in case there may be something else going on.

I don't know you know it's not presenting itself right now, all right, we are back today we're gon na go ahead and replace this disconnects switch. I already turned off power. We're just gon na verify that power is actually off. It is and I'll check to ground.

Just to be safe, so we're going to change the disconnect switch and then go from there. So I currently am just given the evaporator a rinse. It's not filthy, it's just a little greasy, so we're just rinsing it out. It doesn't even need chemical really just getting some lint off of it, making sure the drains clear and then keep on going.

I went a little zip tie crazy kind of cleaning everything up a little bit just getting rid of some of the mess. I just didn't. Like the clutter, but yeah, we got a new disconnect, switch we're about ready to power it on everything's, doing good with that and that's pretty much it. We and this condensers really bad shape, but we went ahead and straightened it up as best as possible.

There's a lot of spots that are beyond repairable and you can't straighten anymore. This all comes from when it gets old. The aluminum gets brittle and then also people washing it too harshly. But I mean it's it's much better than it was this whole section straightened out.

It's pretty clean, we cleaned it out, yeah, that's it so we're gon na power this guy back up and we should be good to go. The unit's been running for a while I'm just going around checking the amp drawing stuff making sure we're not over amping anywhere condenser fan motor amp draws. So these cadets, a family's gon na, have a 3.5 the end or blower. I think I put right here.

It hasn't been changed out, so this is accurate, so we can amp a 7.5 that outdoor condenser family doors have been changed so input how horsepower motors in there. So that's why they're at 3.5, yeah compressors aren't over amping, so we're just going through making sure there's nothing else going on here. There's not. I checked the amps in the disconnect and we're looking good, no voltage drop everything's.

Looking good, I'm not a fan of these contactors they're starting to have some arcing looking. You know black action going on in there, but I'm not gon na kill these guys right now and I decided not to change the end or blower motor we're just gon na monitor it. This is one of my good customers, so I'm here on a monthly basis. Anyway, so we'll just keep watching these guys, maybe the next PM will change these contactors out all right.

So this is my final test out after we've gone through everything I went ahead and straighten out the condenser, as best as possible ended up adjusting the charge a little bit on the first stage, not much though - and we just switched to the second stage - everything's working. Pretty darn good on this one too, so they have a clean bill of health. Now, so to recap, we had a package unit. Well, actually we had a couple ACS down and they kind of misled me wolde.

I guess maybe just in communication. We got confused on which bar EC was down, but anyways found out the right units. Okay, the biggest one was the bar EC number 4 that one had the bad disconnects switch. I've used that method to test for bad disconnects, which is quite often using my infrared laser.

Usually it's pretty accurate. Of course. I know that you know. If I had a thermal imaging camera, it would definitely work just the same.

If not better, probably that's just you know, I just haven't - chose to buy a thermal imager. Well, actually, I've bought in one before, but I returned it cuz. I didn't like it so cuz the you know the laser does what it needs to for me. So that kind of indicated, but again you know I didn't stop there.

You know I kind of went through everything else and you know still amped everything else out still adjusted to charge a little bit. You know and just went through everything and then the things that I chose not to fix right now. You know I kind of brought that up to the customer and just said: look, we've got a couple other issues, I think they're kind of minor. You know and we'll address them like.

I said we do a routine maintenance at that restaurant, so we're there every month, so we'll follow up and we'll keep an eye on it. If I changed every single contactor, you know and every single pulley, when they show the slightest sign of where yes, you know that's doing my job properly, but at the same time you have to take care of the customers, because when I service, you know a restaurant, That has six air conditioners on it. You know essentially we're gon na have bad contactors all the time, so we kind of try to take it easy, and you know it will take care of things when they're critical, but you know, because we do routine maintenance is every month we're able to catch things Before they become a big big deal, so you know anyways, but that's just kind of what the restaurants want to do. You know we kind of given the option and just say: hey, look, here's the issues.

This is the major issue. These other ones are kind of, not so critical, you know and they're. Given the option, do you want to hold off? Do you want to address everything all at once and usually they choose to kind of hold off, but it's not like they're just being cheapskates, okay, because and I'm not trying to set myself up on a high horse. But you know I don't work with restaurants that don't fix their equipment.

Okay, so we have a good relationship and they know you know what needs to be fixed and they trust me when I say we can hold off on this, and - and I understand they have budgets and different things like that. You know we don't want things to take a dive in the middle of a heat wave, but at the same time they got to be cautious, their budgets and it's just one of those things as a business owner that you have to take into account. And you have to understand, you know in general, casual dining is really hurting, so you know - and I work with most casual dining restaurants, so you just got to kind of you know, throw them a bone every once in a while and try to help them out. As much as possible, while still doing your job properly too so anyways, I kind of went off on a tangent there, but you know I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch this video give me some feedback.

Let me know what you guys think, okay other than that we will catch you guys on the next one: okay.