This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. So today we have a service call on a carrier packaged unit. That's not working correctly, we're opening it up right now to see what we can find. First, look is the hitting condensers a little bit dirty a lot of times.

People forget that there's a part of the condenser on the inside of this unit, but it's running the compressors make an allowed vibrating noise, which sounds a little strange. The condenser fan motor spinning correctly. It's just the camera, can't capture it fast enough, so we're gon na jump into here and see what we can figure out. So we know the compressors running, we're just starting with the basics.

We're opening up the filters to check them out and then we're going to look at the blower see the blower motor running. But this thing is vibrating. Pretty pretty good filters are a little bit. Dirty looks like they're about due to be changed, so you lift that top rack it up.

You got to use two hands: lift the top bracket and pull the filter out. Yes, so we know the blowers running, because we've got a massive amount of air going through there so definitely know our belts. Fine. Those filters aren't that bad.

When you pull them out they're, not that bad at all, you can see light right through them, so yeah blowers working drain pans a little bit dirty, but not bad, so we're good there. Let's put this panel back on and jump on the compressor, I'm confident the belts, fine, we'll check it before we leave, but there's no need to open it up right now. We've got really good airflow, that's good enough! For now, you don't need to worry about putting screws in it. Let's go ahead and open up the condenser section.

Okay, that compressor sounds like definitely got a compressor vibration Chism, so we're gon na go ahead and gage up on this unit, because the complaint is that it's not working we'll go from there. So at this point we see oil back in there all over the dryer. The condenser area we're going to pop the top on the unit because we know we're low on pressure. I already disconnected the condenser fan motor so we'll pop the top and then look for the refrigerant leak.

So we got the top pulled off and the reason why we pulled the top is because it's so small in there, but you can definitely see oil everywhere and you can actually see a spot where it's gon na leak tomorrow. So but we got to find out where this leak is that so we've got oil all the way over here all the way down the condenser got a nice oil spot on the ground, so this has been going for a while and that compressor sounds like dirt. So I already know we're changing that compressor just from the sound of it. Another thing we want to point out is this is a split condenser split row that, but you can't tell from the outside, because it just looks like 510.

You know just like a little condenser, you remember it's safe to say that if it's 5 tons or up it's going to have a split row condenser, but some 4 tons can have it whether it be residential or commercial, it's safe to say if it's 5 tons Or up it's going to have a split condenser, so we're getting our leak detector products right now. We're gon na do a leak check on this guy figure out where it's at rest of the units in decent shape. The evaporator is a little bit dirty, but not horrible. Note you can get down and look at that drain pan it's not horrible blower assemblies in decent shape.

You know watch out on these a lot of times these blower brackets break. It's a carrier thing so and this blower wheel is all greasy it's caked in grease and i'm sucking grease up through it. Look at that. That's a wire nut in that drain.

That's a head-scratcher because you'll be blowing it out going it's drain. It's fine! Yeah! That's interesting, so this unit still has positive pressure. I'm going to go ahead and clean this condenser and clean off all this oil first. So we have a clean slate and the leak detectors not going crazy, so we're gon na clean all that I'm gon na go ahead and split this condenser and clean it and then we'll we'll do a leak check after that and we're going to go ahead and Since we got the top off we'll rinse this evaporator and clear that little wire net out of the drain, pan might as well it'll.

Just take me a couple minutes, so we got the unit cleaned up about as best as possible. It's not perfect, but it's much better than it was who rents the evaporator from both sides. We got that wire nut out of the drain down in there. So now it's actually draining clean this side as best as possible.

So now we're going to proceed and then we degrease the whole section that had oil on it. We started spraying leak detector, fluid on there, but um we ran out. So we ran to go, get some more real, quick condenser. We split it and cleaned it.

Since we had the top off easy enough yeah, so we're just gon na look for the leak. Now we were picking up a trace with the electronic really heavy right in this area. So that's why we're hitting it with the big blue, so bubbles right now. Try to find it, this compressor was vibrating and had that really loud, sound, so more than likely that's the cause and that's something that happens on these things.

Something gets messed up inside the compressor and it just starts to vibrate it really bad. It's a common carrier thing and then the lines end up rubbing together or something cracks. Usually it's the discharge line to be honest with you that that cracks up in here but we'll see we'll keep checking it out. I said even that looks good.

I think you got plenty on the top, but more than likely it's gon na be up top because refrigerants heavier than air. So it's going to fall where the dryer liquid line coming out of the drawer start at the top and then it'll work its way down. Now watch how big blue works see it's not just a pump makes giant bubbles the way that they mix the formula it makes the super thick giant bubbles the spray. So what happens on these guys? Like I said the compressors? It was making a really loud sound when we got here and it was kind of vibrating.

You could feel the whole unit vibrating the compressors on these things. Something goes wonky Anna, the Burien or something like that, and they start vibrating really bad, and then they just wreak havoc. On these. To be honest with you usually on these units, we crack a discharge line coming out of a 90 right.

There they'll usually crack right on that and it's simple to say: oh when it's the crack 90, let's just weld that 90, but why did the 90 crack? Why did this rub up against that? It's been there for how long and it's been fine, but all the sudden it rubbed up against that. Well number one look right here: this is a problem. This zip-tie broke, there used to be a zip tie here, holding that dryer and it broke okay. But the second thing is that compressors vibrating all hell - and it's just making everything in the system shake so yeah.

We could solve this, we could change. We could do that, you know fix that leak, but it's going to happen again unless we change that compressor. So we're gon na have to put quote in to change the compressor, we'll fix the leak and then we'll go from there. We are back today we're going to go ahead and do the repairs on this unit we were approved, for we already took the top off the unit's out of refrigerant, so I pulled the high flow Schrader core things will end up changing those two altogether.

We're going to change the compressor, we're going to do a leak repair on the condenser, put a new liquid, dryer and then possibly clean out the Accutron metering device, because those things will plug up all the time. So we'll get going on that. And if you can remember here's my leak right here see what we can get to and remember last time we cleaned the condenser so and the evaporator it's funny. The evaporator is already dusty.

We just cleaned that, but anyway, so that's all good blowers taught dialed in so we're in good shape, because I want to clean this Accutron metering device we're gon na go ahead and pull the condenser out. It's really easy! It's literally this braze joint right here and the discharge line and we're changing the compressor anyway, so I unscrewed all the stuff for the condenser and we're just gon na lift it out. So I'm just gon na heat, this guy up and sweat it on sweat. This guy right here and then we'll pull it out and then then I can get in there and clean that out control metering device a little bit better.

Now this is a little unconventional. Normally we wouldn't do this, but it's just as easy just to pull this condenser out. So that way I can get in here I'll braise on a port, we'll put a high pressure and then we'll clean out these little a curators. I might even use a flush which I'm not a super fan of, but we got to do something because those things it's it's hideous, how much those things get plugged up, so we're gon na go ahead and unswept.

This compressor real, quick, pull that away from the returned, because that smoke is getting sucked into the building I'll, probably work, channellocks gon na be a flame coming out of that, probably from the oil cookie. So you've got the copper now get into the fitting a little bit there you go with that heat in the fitting it should be getting pretty hot. You should be able to apply a little tension and check this out. You don't want tension that way because you're squeezing the pipe you just want to pull there you go and it's got it squeeze more or less easy, just slide it out.

We go so I sweat on a little fitting real quick. So that way, I could give it some good pressure and we're gon na give it a blast with nitrogen. The other thing I wanted to point out to remember this compressor was really noisy and it was making a loud like a vibrating sound or you know it was vibrating. So we're gon na make sure that we're not low on oil there's a very good possibility, because that one's mineral oil there's a very good possibility that we have a lot of oil trapped in the evaporator which caused the compressor to start running hard.

It's hard to say: okay, so since we have it out, we are gon na, pour it out and find out, but I'm gon na go ahead and blow this evaporator out too and see if we get any oil coming out of it. I went ahead and screwed on the old core max fitting. So that way, the pressure doesn't come out here and I can slowly restrict it with my finger on this side and I'm gon na give it some blasts and then I'll probably end up using some per some flush too and again, I'm not a fan of using Flush, but in this situation we got it, we got to use some kind of solvent to clean out those a curators. I don't have.

You know be great if I get just butt and change it since I was in here, but I don't have one at their special order, so you got ta, do something to clean them out. Sometimes people try to heat them up. I've done that before you know. I I'm just gon na do everything I can to try to make sure those a curators are cleaned and there's no restriction.

So that's where we're at and we are getting the oil out of this thing right now. I don't know if you guys can see that, but there's vapor from the oil coming out - it's all over my fingers too. So we are definitely have oil and that evaporator, so we're definitely going to blow this thing a lot, and you can see I'm blowing all this these oil spots all over the place out of here right now, so I haven't even used flush and I'm already getting A ton of oil out of this thing sell the drips on the ground. All I'm doing is turning my nitro regulator on and just kind of walking it off and went righty.

I want to do this about using flush. I hate the stuff but trying to talk myself out of it basically, but I'm probably named a business but yeah we're getting good oil out of there. So now, what I'm doing is all light. My torch and heat these guys up a little bit while the nitrogen is flowing to try to get some flow through those two okay, so I'm still flowing nitrogen through there really good and I'm just heating this just a little bit.

You can see I'm starting to get stuff blown out of that. You don't want to do enough to where the phrase comes undone, but you just want to heat it up enough you're, hoping that it feels like a waxy material or something in there. You might be eating it up enough, like I'm getting a lot of vapor coming out of this right now, refrigerant vapor, I could smell it these guys off just a little bit. We walk it on with my finger bill, the pressure drop and then just let a little bit out.

The problem is: is that it's having to push the oil all the way up, you're, not necessarily getting a good blast of oil? Out of that thing, it's kind of a pain in the butt. It's not really a great way to do this, but so I was just kind of getting things mocked up. I've got my dryer right here. The refrigerant leak was on this piece right here, and it was right here rubbed up against this right here.

So we're going to go ahead and put a brace on that because it doesn't need to be replaced. I can fix that and there's another potential rub out right here and then also. I noticed that on this top, you Bend it's kind of milked a little bit, so we're going to go ahead and lay a bead on that and then we're obviously going to lay a bead right on the backside of this to where it was rubbing. I'm just trying to take care of any potential leaks so that way we don't have these problems in the future, so yeah, but we're gon na go ahead and lay those solder beads on there get this condenser put back in pressure test and vacuum it down.

Okay, so right now, you're gon na see some brazing here and I'm trying to teach proper brazing practices. Okay, so I'm gon na, let the guy that I'm working with make some mistakes understand it's in a controlled environment, and you know I explained that it ends up being okay, all right. I just want to give you guys some context right here, so we got nitrogen flowing through. I just breezed on a little fitting right down here, just real quick.

So that way I could flow nitrogen that we're here to clean your world. Now, I'm gon na. Do this really tricky one, because this is the one where I was starting to rub through and a lot of times this will flare out and open up when you're praising on it. You always want to sand more than what you're working on it's gon na lay a little beat right on that little goober.

That was ugly. That's all that we really need you don't need to do too much more than that. That's all! That's that and watch that flame as it's going to the other copper you don't want it to eat up the return vents on the other side. You remember you just laying a bead on that.

You got plenty of heat but put some on the top and let it flow down don't be afraid of the solder, I'm not going all down into those spots. Okay, that's good. Now get the backside of that big event. Headed looks good.

It's got good flow. Now the crappy Park dryer to get a lot hotter a lot, and so at this point we're taking too long on this dryer. We got to have it soldered, they're, basically just heating it up too much, but put that solder right. There got too much feed on it and you need that dryer feedback.

Alright. Now we got to get to the bottom, got plenty of solder on this side. Get that solder to suck up into it, pull it off with the torch with the wet towel. All just just slowly cool it with the oxygen we got to get that dryer cooled off because it's way over eat it.

Okay, so the weld is good. The welds are all good. Obviously, we've got some paint, that's coming apart: okay and that's okay, where we're at right now, it's a very dry climate. So we're not going to worry about that dryer rusting out.

But if we lived in a coastal climate, where we had a lot of moisture or high humidity, we would have to go ahead and replace that dryer. But, like I said here, it's not that big of a deal it's a good, solid, well, nothing wrong! A little bit of overheating here and there, but it'll be okay. It's it's nothing! To change the dryer over! You know we'll survive like I said we're not in a coastal climate, so we're gon na go ahead and drop this condenser back into there and get ready to braise everything back so a little trick, a wire tie with the wire type through it. So that way the wires can be up against the pipe, but they don't have a rub against the pipe.

You guys get that you see what's going on in so get a wire tie and then a wire type through it, and then that way you see nice and neat no problems and we'll do the same thing for the lines for the compressor two sectors. The zip time there's another trick too. If you ever have like see these zip ties, if they have a break, you can still use the tie and put another zip tie through it. So like this is a broken pieces.

That type of look you can. You can feed another zip tie through that and still tighten it down. You were trying to get back all the way in there will you bend it simply eat this guy up put this guy in notice, see how I'm moving my torch away when it's getting too. It's already gone to the bottom that I'm gon na heat up the bottom, just for shits and giggles.

Okay, I'm out a little drip, come off its okay on something like this, if it drips, but on certain situations you okay, so I want you to see how we do this right here now. I don't want to keep towards this. If I don't want to burn the compressor okay, so we're just going to keep the copper bird, the residual oil burning off right now, this oil on the line. Okay! So now that my coppers heated nice and good, then I'm going to bring the torch over to the penny or the soldering.

And if you do it right, you don't even have to get the solder all the way around and actually laid solder on the top. And then flow it all the way down to the bottom wrong good raves joint. You want to get the cat like the capillary action or whatever the pulling the solder, and you want to that's good. That's good you're really not supposed to cool Wells, but on a sensitive product like your compressor, I don't want the body of the compressor getting too hot okay, so we're gon na cool it like that all right and we're just gon na.

Let that sit again. I'm worried about the body of the compressor, so I'm gon na go ahead and lay this right here and just let it sit okay. So now I want you to do the top of the head again using the same principles: we're heating, the copper first and then bringing it in there. You go.

You just make your life a lot easier now, okay, now the male part give a nice apartment around. Not even the pity adjusting your soldering, your father, my son and notice, there's a little bit of solder stone that almost you can use that as a gauge and that starts to liquify. It's time to get ready to facade, run out start eating your fitting. You get a fun party, probably have enough solder.

You can get it to pull in now. Bring you the torture onto the top point down, then you're playing back a little bit there. You go a little bit too much every around the bottom. Do the same thing make sure it flows just like that? Look like it blowed all the way around okay.

So that's it! Take your torch off and we're good and we're not overheating and the body isn't getting too hot up. But so you got a hole right here: oh no, it's not a hole, it's actually just looks like it's. So that looks much better and the compressors not getting too hot yeah cool with nitrogen or oxygen, and then we'll lay this guy on there. That's not a freezing cold ice cold towel! That's just a damp towel to pull some of the heat away.

So we did the same thing that I did with the wire right here on the rub: point for the copper, so we zip tie to zip tie so that way the zip ties rub together and not the copper, so you'll potentially rub off a zip tie and Then still have time - and there was another spot right down here where it looked like it was gon na do it. So we did the same thing. That's just on the liquid dryer. So now we're good and we're ready to do a pressure test.

We're also going to change these core max fittings. I've got brand new core max fittings, I'm going to use the true blue evacuation kit. This is very nice. I've had it for a while now used it a handful of times, but it is kind of difficult to set up.

It takes some time, but it's definitely speeds up the process, but I definitely say that it's probably gon na take me five to 10 minutes to set it up so just to get all these little fittings, screwed on and different things, but I like it. So we've got the true-blue hooked on the half-inch and the 3/8. It comes with these special fittings for the core max tools, so you can depress the four match, but give yourself a good flow, and then I still have to hook up a core removal tool because we have to have a spot for the micro engage. So we're evacuating still pulling the vacuum just doing some electrical same thing.

I ran new electrical for the compressor 12 gauge wire cuz. That's what the other stuff was made. Sure it's nice and secured, where it's not going to rub out on anything. So our vacuum is doing good, we're at about 580 microns.

It was kind of stalled out a minute ago about 610 612 and then it would like jump up to 615 and then I went ahead and did an oil change and then affirm that starting trough and right after that, are you doing some electrical? I'm gon na go ahead and change these contactors in here and then I just for shits and giggles and testing this capacitor and it tests out bad tests out at five micro farad's. What it's supposed to be a fifteen they're getting inconsistent readings. But that's a bad cap, so we're gon na change that so I'm currently weighing in r22. Slowly while we're putting the unit together, a foot slid on I'm just finishing up.

Some condenser fan motor wiring, making sure everything is going to be safe, and then we got to do a phase rotation test to make sure that compressors running in the right direction, because we did change contactors moves and stuff around. So we still got a little bit more to go okay, so our unit is back up and running everything's. Looking good yeah, we redid a bunch of electrical, I mean really. They should have changed this unit, but you know they don't want to.

Like gas line. Looks nice huh we redid a bunch of electrical, we replaced the contactors, the compressor fixed, the refrigerant leak, adjusted the refrigerant charge. Accordingly, someone has a lot of incorrect parts on here, but I'm not going to change. It me out like that motor motor doesn't belong on this unit, it's a little bit big, so it makes the condenser blades sit down.

Lower, you know runs a little higher head pressure because of it. Oh yeah. It needs a metal mesh filter. You know just all the panels are completely destroyed on this thing, but it is what it is.

It's operational it's work and they're happy condensers as clean as it can be, so we're gon na call this one quits. Okay. So, to recap: we had a no cooling call on a unit. It was caused by a refrigerant leak.

The refrigerant leak was caused by a compressor that was starting to fail. The compressor was vibrating internally. Okay, when I come out on these calls, you know I'm not just looking at the symptom, I'm looking at the source, you know what caused the problem to happen. Okay and that refrigerant leak happened because the compressor there was something internally that was messed up and it was causing the unit to vibrate, really bad.

Okay, I like to solve for the big picture: okay, eliminate the problem, try to prevent it from happening again. Okay also, as I kind of mentioned in the middle of the video, you know, I'm trying to let the the apprentice that I'm working with do some of the work and make some mistakes. Okay, because I realized just me telling him all the time isn't gon na teach him, he has to make some mistakes on his own. So obviously you saw how I kind of let him go to town on that dryer and it was taking him a while.

I was getting overheated, but it's okay, okay, everybody has to learn and it ended up being alright. So really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos. You know leave me some feedback down in the comments. I really really like to read the feedback, whether it be good or bad.

I got thick skin. Tell me if I'm doing something wrong, tell me how I could have done something better. Okay, I really really am looking for that feedback other than that guys. I will catch you guys on the next one: okay,.