Okay, so today we've got a part two of my walkin with a bunch of problems. Alright, the last video I released this last Monday. You guys saw this walk and that had a bad compressor, bad headmaster, leaks, bad fan, cycle control, just defrost clock one thing after another: okay, so the customer went ahead and approved the replacement, so we're gon na get started on that. But before we do, I want to remind you guys that we currently have the spoilin BQ TV kit right behind me that I'm giving away it'll be given away on my April 1st livestream in the description of this video there'll, be a link, if you guys click The link you guys can get entered into the contest.

Okay, there's no purchase necessary. Anything like that. Okay, remember I'll ship, this kit anywhere in the United States. If you happen to enter and you live outside of the United States and you win, then the shipping is gon na, be on you, okay and we'll figure that stuff out later also pay attention to the the rules of the entry, because you guys can get extra Extra bonus points by doing extra things such as sharing it in Facebook groups, get the traction going on this.

You guys can get I've seen some people that have more than 22 entries into this. Just because they've shared it they've done all the different things. So you know the biggest thing subscribe to spoil ins YouTube channel subscribe to my youtube channel. You know all those different things get you guys different points, so just click on the link and you guys will figure it out.

Okay, on with the video that's currently, okay, we are getting ready to do. A change out on this. Holding Clinton. We're going to be doing is putting new evaporators in a new into a new spot, because I don't like the fact of all the warm air coming through the door gone right into return.

So we're going to move the evaporators to this side, which puts us in a good position, because we can do those and leave the old equipment running while we're doing the work and then hold when the down is the last thing we do. So it's going to be so we're gon na leave this stuff running start prepping, the evaporator coils right now, so we're prepping the two evaporator coils. We've got two of them right here, so we're gon na basically put the expansion valve solenoid valves and get them all ready. So that way, when we hang them, we really don't have that much work to do I'd.

Rather, if you can do this work outside of the building, because it's easier than trying to do it up on a ladder so we're taking advantage of the situation that we have so we got the coils kind of mocked up and then you know we'll go through The expansion valves and put them in and all that good stuff. So when we pull this panel off, you notice there's a lot of data on the side of this panel right here. Okay, this is essentially telling us what size nozzle and if you look right down in here, we're gon na put inside the distributor housing and that's going to help us create a pressure differential with that valve. Okay, so notice that says it's sized for ninety to a hundred degrees, liquid temperature.

So that has a lot to do with the way that the expansion valve is gon na feed. Okay, so we've got two different style nozzles right here and we basically use that chart and then we cut this distributor cap right here, ream it out and then we're gon na push the nozzle inside the one thing. I will say that I don't like about the heat crafts anymore. Is they used to not braise this shut and it used to just have a plastic cap, and the plus side to that was when I cut this, there's gon na be a bird edge, and it's gon na be hard for me to push that nozzle up into There yeah I'm gon na deburr it, but there's always some pinching action that goes on when you cut something with a tubing cutter so before they used to just put a cap in there in the nozzle slid in effortlessly.

It is a little bit more of a challenge now, but it's not that big of a deal, so this side is gon na, be where my expansion valve and my solenoid valve is mounted so we're gon na get to it and then we'll go through the selection. So we are going to be using our four four eight, a refrigerant right here, our four forty, eight, and essentially we find our coil model number, which is a 9,000 BTU coil. So we go with the ninety. Then you follow it over and the nozzle that we're gon na use is an L one nozzle.

So if we look down in here, one of these should be an L one nozzle yep, this one's the L one nozzle right here, so we're going to use this nozzle, then we're going to discard the other one or you can keep them, but just make sure You write, you know what they're for just in case you ever needed to do work. You can save the nozzles for later, but yeah. So that's where we're at we're using our 448 a one of the most underrated things you can get from spoiling. A lot of people don't know about these.

Is their BQ kits dig! These things comes in a little box. I've had mine forever. It's the BQ balance, port expansion valve kit. You can find all the different bodies and they have more than just here and you select the cartridges and then you select the thermostatic expansion valve power heads now.

This one doesn't have the newer refrigerants on it, because this is a really old kit, but essentially we're going to look at my heat craft book that came with the eval coil we're going to find our head pressure, control valves, bypass rating, which is 150 psi. We find our evaporator coil BTUs, which is right here: the LCA six, that's six fins per inch and then a nine zero is the multiplier by a thousand that equals your BTU. So this is a 9,000 BTU. We've a protocol we're going to follow that over to right here we're doing 448, a plus 25.

It requires a SBF de a/c. So that's C is medium temp, that a is the cartridge size. The D represents the 448 a and then the SPF is just the body style. Now we don't necessarily have to put just the FBF look at our SPF, I'm putting in an S BQE body - that's a 3 by 4 by 2.

That's this guy right here! Then. The a is my cartridge size, so I've got a cartridge right here. This kit basically normally build up. We just find all the different cartridges and then we've got the power head, so we're gon na assemble the valve.

So we're gon na build the expansion of we're gon na do is put a little bit of lubricating oil usually use whatever refrigerant oils in the system or if you got the right kind of night log he's night long and using i luckily, which is peony, save That and put the Partridge inside of the valve. Tighten it down essentially going to go. Snug now spoiler makes a little triangle tool to do this, it's a little plastic tool. So that tells you that you don't want to torque these things down, so essentially you're gon na go snug and then just that's it.

Just a tiny hair passed up. I'm gon na put a little bit more lubricating oil right on this. We're gon na tighten the power head on and there book says to go sixty degrees, past snug on the pallet head. You do not want to over tighten the collar heads so we're essentially just gon na with this guy on the powerhead put up over the ranch, find your popular the leverage of the tool inches against each other, got about 60 degrees.

Past that point there you go. That's it last thing you got to do: let's take care of cartridge, identify this says a valid 8 cartridge and put it on the pallet head. So the next I know is that there's an 8 cartridge in this valve because there's nothing on the body that says tonnage when you build about so that's it valves built and I'm ready to install it. So I want to cover something.

This is a liquid line. Solenoid valve - and I want to cover a common misconception - this liquid line solenoid valve, has a 3/8 inch line size, but we do not size ass, Illinois valve via the line size. It is not completely unthinkable to have a bigger solenoid valve as far as line sizes go and have reducers reducing the lines. So that way, you could have a 3/8 inch line, potentially going into a half inch solenoid belt.

Ok, solenoid valve should be sized based on the tonnage of refrigerant that is being pushed through it. So you got a look at your condensing unit and how much refrigerant what the tonnage is and what it's moving through that valve and that's going to determine what you do there because of the difficulty of the burr from cutting it. What I try to do is score it with the pipe cutter and then snap this off. But you have to be careful because it's a you have to find that happy number.

If you try to snap it and it's not scored enough, then it'll just bend the pipe up here. Well, you see, I've got a score on there right now and I'm gon na try to take some channel locks and snap off this piece right here. So it's gon na be hard to see you can kind of see. I've got the nozzle all the way up in there.

I just used a screwdriver pushed it up. It's got to be all the way in there and flat pressed in there we're good to go and keep in mind. You can actually see the number stamped on the nozzle to us. That's number one, I'm good to go so we got it hey heat craft.

Are you guys, gon na replace my expansion valve when it goes bad because you guys didn't braise with nitrogen? I just cut the end off of this and they braise these shut. When I cut it, look at the inside of that and watch what comes out of this thing. It's ridiculous! This thing is full of carbon flakes. This is unheard of hold on.

Let me get this right here and we'll catch. This look at what we're scraping out of this thing, so, hey guys make sure you purge there blow these things with the nitrogen before you install, assuming that the factory did their job right. This is kind of ridiculous that I have to deal with this stuff, so who's gon na pay for the expansion valve that I install when it fails because it plugs up with crap. I think that's pretty ridiculous right there, so I haven't braised anything in yet.

I'm literally just cutting lines, so it just makes me wonder if this whole thing is full of that stuff. That's pretty ridiculous! All right! So we're going to be braising in this txb we're trying out hot wok. I've never used this stuff before we're gon na see how well it works. I guess I should have put some up on that distributor housing up here, but over already I'm getting like off-gassing a moisture coming out of the hot block which they don't like, but I've seen this on wet rag too I'm getting like an off gassing.

I don't dig yeah well appraisal, yeah, one of the things that happens when you're using the wet rag is when it's really hot and it's dry. It slides and you have to use like a stainless steel brush to scrape the stuff off an imperious Impa. The other thing I don't like about the hot walk that I'm seeing right now is is believed to hide a valley to it. I really think very good to get through you can see.

I typically run a little heavy on my solder, rather he's a little solder than okay. We've hit every joint, so overall it did a decent job, definitely going to have to clean it. Just like I have to clean the the wet rag stuff, I would say it's equally dissipating the heat or absorbing the heat as much as like the wet rag. Stuffed says.

The only thing I don't like about this stuff is the blue dye, but I'm still gon na have to take my stainless steel. Brush and kind of you know brush this stuff off, but I mean I still like the heat compounds. I think it worked great. You know I did a good job, keeping the valves cool cooler.

I mean they're warm, but you know yeah sweet good stuff. So that's the hot block by solder, weld yeah, I'm not liking that blue stuff. It's it's making a mess with blue dye. That's that's! Not cool, but I mean it's good stuff.

It's a heat, absorption putty, it's nice, but I don't like the blue dye, there's blue dye everywhere, so I think that's kind of silly. It's kind of like leak lock. It's like you got a leak lock all over your hands and crap, it's kind of not cool. So now we're gon na try this with the Viper wet rag and see what we get.

I have a feeling we're gon na have good results. I mean I know: I've used this stuff before I just I don't have blue dial over my hands. I mean there's residual stuff from the wet rag, but it's not blue dye. So so I don't want to talk crap about the hot block.

I mean it's not horrible, it's good stuff, it's just! I don't know. What's the deal with that dye so far, my favorite is the wet rag. We just braise the joints with the Viper wet rag that you got to be cautious, cuz, that putties really hot, but I cooled the joints with a actual wet rag after I let it cool for a minute or two and then now I'm gon na go ahead And pull it off and we'll see how much of this stuff gets stuck. I also added more moisture to it, so I'm wondering, if that's why it gets real flake is because we didn't have enough moisture before both think we're gon na pull it off right now and see how it looks so without trying too hard.

This is what just fell off the pipe and we have a little residual left, but what I'm realizing is it still comes off fairly easy and that's where it's dried, so the last time I used it. I had a lot of this this time. I have a lot less because I had put more moisture in the wet rag, just a couple drops of water and rushed it around before. I used it at this time, so the key is is to make sure there's a lot of moisture in the putty.

So but like see like that's dry to the pipe I'll, get my steel brush and brush that off so okay. So this is what is left after I used the VIPRE wet rag and you can see there's a little residual, but what I've realized is that's just because it's dried out so the last time I use this stuff. This stuff was everywhere. It's not as bad.

This time, but before I used it this time I added moisture to it. So just a couple drops of water so yeah this is the leftover, so I will have to use a wire brush to get that off, but I mean it kind of flakes off with my hand pretty good too. Okay, so we're in the attic nothing's permanent yeah, but I've got supports and stuff holding the line. Setup hanger straps well straighten it all out.

There's like a little droop right here, but we'll clean that up later we're just doing the brazing right now. We've got some nitrogen flowing over there through the other side. We're gon na make a braise tomorrow right here, so today we're just doing the line set on top of the boxes tucked all the way. Over there we run the liquid line real quick.

It's already run down to the coils. We haven't braised on the coils yet, but we're just doing it so I like to support them whenever I can. You can't always make it look like this, but all right, so we got the new coils hung and got on piped in refrigeration wise. We got the penetrations taped up and spray foam temperature controller.

Txb installed insulation done, I'm going to come back tomorrow. Do a condensing unit drain lines down we're at the new drains. All the way over. All the way over here got a nice pitch on it.

We're gon na leave these ones running the old ones temporarily and then so they're still operating tomorrow, we'll come back and do the switch over on the condensing unit. We got to do some electrical. We still got a pole electrical. We ran the conduit, but we got to fish it to each coil tomorrow when we do the switchover because well steal the power from these once over for today kind of nice, when you could do it like this, because then we're not in such a big rush.

So we are currently in the process of doing the piping. I'm gon na get this all supported nice and good braise it in insulate ever doing electrical so a little bit out of time. Okay, so we are doing a tightness test with the field piece manifold. So I'm going to turn on our nitrogen, basically bring the pressure up to about 150 psi, I'm going to push inner it's going to start a timer.

I've also got my temperature clamp on the suction line and that's there to compensate for the temperature change in the system, while we're doing the pressure test, there's a common misconception that nitrogen is a completely inert gas. So therefore, it never changes temperature or never changes pressure via temperature, but that is actually false. Nitrogen does change pressure via temperature, although it is a very small amount depending on you know, temperature change likes. If you did a nitrogen test overnight, it's very possible that you'd come in and the system would be have changed a little bit so anyway.

So basically, this is going to tell us the amount of percentage changed in the amount of time. So it's pretty cool little test 60 psi we're gon na give it a minute to kind of calm down about the system: stabilizer, okay, so we're kind of stabilizing now so we're gon na go ahead and press ENTER to start started the timer and it's gon na - Tell us the change. Okay. Now we passed the tightness test.

Everything looks good on that. Last but not least, we're going to turn the vacuum clip on open the gas ballast cool things guilties back, that's a good all right! So we're gon na. Let that run and watch it on the back of map. So far I've done one I'll change oil, it's pretty nasty! This is a Gatorade bottle Mitch.

I wrote do not drink on that cool thing about the oil change. I don't have my other little. It came with another container, but you just open this valve. It dumps it into that container.

You close the valve. You pour new oil on the top, you put it to the fill zone. You don't got to turn off the vacuum. It's really cool so but yeah.

I've done 100 oil change so far. Looking good 242 microns we're trying to get down to 200 and then we're gon na do a decay test and hope that doesn't come about 500. So far, we're looking good I'd say we're about 20 minutes into the vacuum. I'm just using that a pion half inch hoses that have a 3/8 connector at one end and a quarter inch connector at the other, and then I've got a happy encore tools on there.

Okay, so working good so far continue to charge it. So I'm charging into the liquid line. I had my guy downstairs: pull the cylinder magnet off the coil, so we should get this slowed down here, because basically I had magnets on the solenoid valves for the vacuum test. So I wanted it to kind of stop at the solenoid valves instead of flooding back to the compressor with a bunch of refrigerant.

So we got it off now. So now we're just gon na. Let it sit there and charge we're gon na have to turn it on to charge. In the rest, it's only gon na take a little bit we're using our 448, a thanks to our California government.

They passed a new law that says new installations. We have. We can't use 404 anymore, so we'll see how this goes. So this is a 448 a and I'm still charging it.

So we've got a high suction pressure, but it runs really similar to r22. Look at my outdoor ambient is sixty degrees and I'm running a hundred and seventy-five head pressure 170 for my liquid saturation temperature. So we're not done yet. I'm still charging but yeah we're putting fifteen pounds.

That's the heat craft is the maximum charge for this system. I just got a phone with tech support and they basically advised me just to go with the 15 pound charge and then check everything after that, but that should be enough for the winter charge. So there you go. That's our full charge now we're just gon na.

Let it run go downstairs, check the eave apps, see how they're doing okay so we're all finished up units running we're gon na. Let it run for a bit and I'll come back and check super beat put some stickers on it that label it is our forty. Forty eight a and then I'll tell them to get a roofer to come out and take a look at that roof Jack. I'm not a roofer, so I'll, just seal it up and then he can come out and do what he wants to do to it.

So yeah, that's it all right it it's down to ten everything's good, we're gon na. Let it run for a day and then I'm gon na come back and do super neat gon na. Let it cool the Box down all the way. As far as the old holes go, we got tape over them, we'll come back and pull them once that stuff's dried, you can see, the foam is kind of coming down, we'll come back cut the excess foam off and then they'll have to clean their ceilings.

I'm not going back okay, so you know that was just a basic walk-in cooler install like you guys saw in the video. I shared a couple key points. I can't show the whole thing, because this that you know we were there all day long, but I like to show a few points of the install. I really dig on the you know, showing you guys the spoil and BQ kit how you can use that.

That's a very, very valuable tool and, like I said in the beginning of this, I'm doing the the giveaway on that. So you know guys look in the description of this video and you guys will see the link to enter the contest. Okay, some important things that I wanted to point out was the sizing of the liquid line. Solenoid valves, that's a really important factor and yeah.

That's pretty much it guys. Okay, really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch my videos, please consider subscribing. If you haven't already - and I will catch you guys on the next one - okay.