So today, we're working on a chi, rack, blue region and the complaint is, is that it's freezing all their food. So this is what I see on the display when I first walk up so we're gon na go through it. All you can see here. The tomatoes are just a problem: they're like getting way too cold on everything.

My display is not responding to button, so I had said I should get something. So I got no response out of my display just kind of doing a visual look at that electrical connector on that power switch looks like it's kind of melting, getting a little hot back there other than that everything else looks pretty good. This thing is missing: the guard right here by the street ends in great shape compared to some other ones, nothing to the bypass nothing's been hacked. I, like it a lot when a power cycle it, let's see what happens when we power cycle, so I turned off the switch.

Let's go ahead and turn it back on see. If that does anything still does not let me access anything okay, so quick call. The technical support. Kind of give me some answers, so basically what's happening here.

Is the display thinks that someone is taking the buttons on and off constantly to turn the display off? That's why it says display off display on so more than likely. What has happened here is someone has gotten the controller wet, which was my very first assumption. You can kind of see some water damage on top of the control and let me explain what we think is going on, so they instructed me to go over to this display hold the buttons down, notice, also display off, and you can turn it off. You can actually do that in the box and still run so.

The controller thinks that someone is pushing the buttons like. I just did right now and that's what's going on with that guy so and it gives you no no faceook, no nothing! You know you can't get into anything because the buttons are he said we can try playing with it, but regardless we're gon na change. This display - and I'm also going to have some sensors on hand because what's happening is the unit, is running kind of in a standalone mode. Without this display, and the complaint is that they're freezing products are more than likely, we've got some bad sensors.

So when I come back I'll make sure I have the sensors on me, I'm not gon na change the sensors, as of yet they'll just deal with it until we get the control we'll do everything at once. Nothing too crazy. The other thing I wanted to point out too was this new little Milwaukee 12-volt drill drivers turned out really nice. You know, I really like it so far.

You know still, you know it's only been about a week since I've had it, but it's it's nice and convenient it's smaller than my little Dewalt that I had in here. You know a nice little guy so far I used it for swaging the other day. More than enough power ice waged 1/2 inch and 3/8 no sweat at all, so nice little guys so far. This is a because people are gon na.

Ask me I'll have to get you guys that this is the half inch 12 volt drill driver and it's the fuel model brushless, so really nice little guys so forth, perfect example. The system is running right now, even though this display is doing its funky stuff. So it's basically running and using the sensors, okay and a little overview on this box. So this is the Chi right blue system, okay, so it's got a glycol pump in the back and the glycol pump runs 24/7, the temperature controller.

This is the human interface, but we've got a relay module back there. Okay, the the human interface, looks at the sensors and opens the solenoid valve, which lets the pressure through, which turns the compressor on when this opens up. The low pressure control sees a high pressure. Then the compressor turns on and runs okay and it uses three sensors.

It has one that shows a temperature on here. Just for us to see that sensor is in the air inside here, okay, but that actually has no effect on the operation, and then it has two other sensors that sense the glycol temperature and those are what regulate the product temperature, so basically they're. Just looking at glycol temperatures, that's all they're doing all right. We are back we're gon na get this guy replaced right now, controller here, so shouldn't be too difficult to swap it out, and then I have a strong feeling.

We're gon na have to change the sensors, but we'll check them once we get this guy replaced. Okay, let's see what happens Electrical loss. You can hit the alarm button to make that go away election alone, so we're actually reading temperatures now. So that's a plus and what we're gon na do is we're gon na go.

Look at our sensors now to the service technician, menu go to a-1 and we're going to go to be l and l. A l and c be those are our two, so fifty degrees 50 degrees. That's interesting, the sensors don't look like they're bad we're gon na. Let this run for a few minutes.

So ll is our air temperature, which is just for the display. It doesn't do anything to the controller, it's just so the customer can see a tent CV and al are our black contacts fifty-fifty. I still think we're gon na have sensors bad. I'm gon na watch it for a few minutes and see what happens still watching it.

Come down but I'm going to check something else too. So, let's check the setpoint a one set point SP, so it's set for as high as it'll go, which is 30 degrees, so they basically lock you out attempts. You can go for the 24 to 30 and that's the glycol temp, so it's set as high as it'll go so like I said we're gon na watch them down to temp, because the other thing I'm just thinking as I'm watching here is that we're gon na Have a relay that's sticking to progressive relay that could be a problem, so I need to see the box satisfy and make sure it's not getting too cold. You know in the controller's tell them to stop so this units been running for a while, and my sensors are showing a little bit of a discrepancy.

So CB is 32. L is 29, so I mean that's only 29 30 31. It's like three degrees, but because the customers complaining about freezing the product, I'm going to go ahead and change these sensors to these sensors are pretty high failure rate, so we're gon na change it without the controller module change at the display. So we'll just change the sensors now, okay, so we've got some new sensors.

I've showed this before, but you can't get to the old sensors, the like back inside here behind a bunch of phones. So you don't think that out the factory just tells you to but and relocate the sensors into the glycol model. You just have to make sure they get pushed all the way down into the bottom of this team, so we're gon na make a little rig so that way the sensors don't bend and I'll show you guys that once I get it all finished, so I use The zip ties so that way it kind of holds it straight and you can kind of flex it and bend it a little bit and then we're gon na feed it down into there. But before I do that, I'm not more to the level.

So that way, I know once it's in there and how far it needs to go down and then we'll drill a hole in the cap remember to put the wad of electrical tape right there. So that way, the sensors can't be pulled out of the tube that it's sealed up with silicone. I got to pull my sensors tight from the other side, we're good to go my sensors right here. They pull through it's kind of dummy proof.

The blue sensor connects to the blue jacket. Green sensor connects to the green jacket, the old sensors we're just going to discard because, like I said, they're encapsulated in that foam and they're, not using more so we'll just discard those. And then we got to get inside the cabinet and splice the yellow sensor, which is the air temp sensor when I am working with these tiny little control wires, I like to fold them over to give more for the wire not to grab so I fold them Both over and it gives it a better twist and a better grab. I just just kind of like something I always do to make my life easier, because there's nothing worse than trying to get one of these blue wire nuts on here and then it just keeps pulling off so and, as usual turn.

The unit on put my whole thing back together, now we're gon na. Let it come down a temp and then check all our sensors again. The electrical loss make it go away. If I hit my silence button see, is our air tip in the box? It's just for the display, it doesn't do anything with the box, so we're gon na get in here.

A one. We're gon na go up to see be 35 PL. 35. That's perfect! You want those numbers to be within a degree of each other and then ll is our cabinet temperature or air to it again does not affect the operation of the unit.

It's just for the customer to see so we're good to go we're gon na. Let this thing come down in town, okay, so this was a chi rack, blue region and that the blue line is their glycol line. That's pretty much, I think all that they make now anyway. So the complaint was that the unit was getting too cold and it was freezing their products.

Okay. What I found was that first off, like you, guys, saw in the video right away. We found that the human interface or the controller display was bad and it was they called it like a boot load mode or something like that where basically, it thought that someone was turning the buttons on and off, or something like that. Okay, more than likely it was caused by someone getting the controller, wet okay, went ahead and ordered a new display came back out, replaced it.

But then I had a hunch that we might have some bad sensors to the sensors are a very common failure thing on these kyrat regions. So if you do any work on these, I highly suggest that you have the sensors and in one of the the relays, I'm trying to think what they call the relay. I can't remember the name of it, but there's a little black relay, not the entire box, but there's just a little black relay and those fail quite a bit too. So I suggest you keep the sensors and the relays inside your trucks.

Okay, so I actually had the sensors the first day, but I didn't want to go through all the hassle, because I was going to be coming back out with a new display. Anyways so came back out, replaced the display at first the sensors looked fine. But then, as the box came down to temperature, we saw a little bit of a discrepancy in the the readings, so basically the two sensors that sense the glycol temp they should really be reading within about a degree of each other. So I went ahead and replaced the sensors to and everything else is working fine on the box, the Box, you know other than that it was in pretty decent shape.

The condensing unit section was looking good. Nothing was hacked like some of the other ones that I've worked on yeah and that's pretty much it guys pretty basic repair. You know moving the sensors into the glycol reservoir, like I showed you guys, that's what tech support or the factory actor recommends you do when you're replacing these sensors and then splicing the one inside the air temp or the cabinet is what they recommend too, because you Can't get to that because it's capsulated in the phone so other than that, I will see you guys on the next one, okay other than that. I really want to say.

Thank you guys very much for taking the time to watch my videos. You know please consider subscribing to my channel if you guys haven't already and check out some of the other channels. I recommend okay because there's a lot of other people that make much better content than I on YouTube, and I highly suggest you guys to check them out also, you know, there's a lot of room on YouTube, so if some of you guys are interested in this Pick up a camera, give it a shot. If you have questions or anything like that on how this works or what you have to do to get to start filming, send me an email.

I have no problem explaining that stuff to you guys, there's no secrets here. It's not a competition or anything like that. I think the more people that are sharing their knowledge, the better because we need technicians so bad in our industry as a whole, is hurting so bad right now, via the technician shortage - and you know poor quality service work. Okay, so if anybody has good knowledge, let's share it.

Okay, alright guys, I will see you guys on the next one.