All right, we should be live and someone in the chat, let me know if they can hear me it should be on. Are you guys seeing this right now? You guys seeing this anybody anybody in the chat? Okay, sorry, I am like I did in the last one, I'm still kind of getting a little bit used to this. So just making sure you guys can hear me sweet, alright, so um, my latest video that I did. I had a lot of feedback on it and I just figured it'd be a little bit easier to go ahead and address some of this feedback inside here be patient with me, because it's difficult for me to focus on what I'm going to talk about attention to The chat at the same time, so I'm gon na you know kind of look over at it as much as possible.

What I want to really talk about here is is the headmaster operation and what the purpose of the headmaster is and why we have it in the system. Okay, you may refer, you may hear me refer to it as a headmaster or a head pressure. Control valve low ambient control. Those are all the different things you guys are going to hear.

Headmasters just kind of, I think that's actually a an actual name. A product name, I think, is what it is. Okay, but it's kind of just a default that everybody kind of refers to a message: the headmaster, okay, so the purpose of a headmaster is to maintain a certain pressure drop across your thermostatic expansion valve. Okay, you may not have heard it explained that way before, but that's the true purpose.

Okay, your your thermostatic expansion valve is about changes. The state of the refrigerant, as we know, from a liquid to a vapor mints, okay, going into your evaporating law and that thermostatic expansion valve does not work well, if it is not within a certain parameters in the system has to be perfect. Okay, meaning that we have to have a certain pressure drop or pressure differential across that thermostatic expansion valve or txd and in the system. We have a problem, though.

Okay, is that we're talking about commercial refrigeration systems and some arrogant systems? Okay, you will see a head master valve on an ice machine also, alright, it's whenever we have condensing unit that's located outside and the outdoors where it gets below, typically 70 degrees for a long period of time. That's when we start to notice refrigerant problems at your expansion valve, okay, we'd start to see issues. You start to see bubbles forming inside your liquid line, you'll see in your sight, glass when the outdoor air temperature drops below okay. So our our headmaster is simply there to raise the head pressure in the system okay and help us to keep the pressure at a certain level.

Okay, to help to maintain that pressure differential across that thermostatic expansion valve that's downstairs at the evaporator coil. Okay what'll happen is is if we took a refrigerant, I don't have a pressure chart on me right now, but you know we already know right. That refrigerant is a certain temperature at a certain pressure or vice versa. Certain pressure either way.

So with that being said, we know that with the ambient temperature at outside drops below - let's just say - 70 degrees. You know, we know that our forecourt, a refrigerator, is going to be this pressure at 70 degrees. Okay, so what we can do is we? Can we typically don't do this, but you'll find as a headmaster has been installed inside the system? It's it's refrigerant, dependent, meaning that the headmaster is actually going to change. Excuse me from refrigerant to refrigerant: okay, because there will be different valves depending on what type of refrigerant you're working on on an old arc 12 valve.

You may see a headmaster that had a cut in or a bypass temperature of, or pressure of, a hundred psi. Okay, but nowadays we see headmaster valves depending on what you're working on that have by press pressures of 150 180. 210. 240.

It just depends on what we're working on you typically don't see above 240 and unless you're working on an ice machine - or I should say above 210, unless you're working on an ice. But it is possible that you would have a headmaster on a 40-day system. On a built up, air conditioning - and I haven't worked on one of those, but I imagine that your pressures would be much higher than 40 psi. You'd have a very high pressure at which the Headmaster's gon na bypass okay, so a point of the headmaster.

Let's just make it simple as that: it's to maintain a pressure differential, constant pressure, differential, austere expansion belt. Okay, we can simplify by saying it's the maintain head pressure, but you do need to understand that that's the whole point of having a head master on the system is to maintain that pressure differential across Y okay. So the thing that I got the most - and I always get this question - is how number one you get, how you diagnose master okay, but the the number one question I get is: how do you charge the system with refrigerant that has a head master? Okay and that it can be kind of tricky now in the video that I just released, I did show you guys my method of checking systems refrigerant charge, okay and charging system. If you want to preface that - and I may have mentioned it in the video - I know - I've mentioned it in other videos - is that you always want to know how to do something.

The right way. My way, it's kind of a shortcut and it's not the absolute correct way to do it. Okay, what I would suggest you guys do, I'm gon na go and share my screen with you guys right now, and I'm gon na show you a document. There's actually three documents that I want you guys to look up and you can print these out and have them in your truck and there's forlán documents.

The first one is gon na, be. Let me adjust this, so you guys can see this here. Okay and I'm gon na go ahead and turn the screen share on hang on just a second, if I can figure out. This is where I get really screwy, because I am NOT the smartest person in the world.

Don't cancel that and let me log out of here there we go right there, sorry about that, guy's, okay! So what we're gon na do is I'm gon na screen share? What I would suggest you guys do is go to Spore lens website. Let's see if this pops up on YouTube, I thought this is gon na pop up on YouTube, but I don't know if it's going to be honest with you yeah, I don't think it's going to. I apologize guys. That's not gon na work out the way that I wanted to.

So what I want you guys to do is Google search spoilin document 90 X, 30. 1, ok, swirlin document, 90, 30, water inside this document. What it's gon na do is it's gon na give you spore lense method of properly figuring out how much refrigerant we need for that system to operate properly when it has a head pressure, control valve or a head master? Okay, what it does is that, essentially, is going to have you measure out the total equivalent length of the condenser tubes and it's gon na. Let you figure out the internal volume of refrigerant that that condenser can hold you're going to do a math calculation to find out a totally flooded condenser how much refrigerant that would be.

So. Essentially, it's going to measure the lines it's gon na find out how much volume they can hold, and it's going to tell you that number and you're gon na find out the characteristics of the refrigerant you're using, and it's going to tell you how much refrigerant you Need to add to that condenser to have it fully flooded. Okay. Now it's important to understand that in that document again, spoilin 90-30, one.

You need to understand that once once you have cleared your sight glass on your system again, this is assuming the system has a refrigerant receiver, because most built-up systems do then have an expansion, though you're only gon na see a head master on a system that hasn't Expand, I mean, has a receiver anyways okay, but what we need to do is we need to flood that condenser and we need to make sure that we have a liquid seal inside that receiver, constantly maintaining a clear, solid column of liquid going to your expansion. All okay, so essentially what the valve is gon na do. Is it's gon na bypass the condenser? That isn't a nutshell? Okay, that's not the exact thing that it does is actually going to meter the refrigerant it's going to open and close the valve depending on the pressures in the system, but to understand it. The best way is it's going to shut off the refrigerant flow coming out of the condenser.

It's gon na back up the refrigerant liquid refrigerant in the condenser, but then it's also going to take the discharged refrigerant from the compressor directly from the compressor. It's gon na feed it into the receiver. Now one would think, though, if you had a discharge gas coming out of the compressor feeding directly into the receiver, you would have a problem because that discharge gas coming out of the compressor is not a liquid right. High pressure, high temperature, superheated vapor right so that refrigerant, if was fed directly down your expansion valve, would be a problem right because your expansion valve would be getting vapor going to it.

Well, this is where charging for a head master comes into play because when we flood back to denser liquid okay and we shut off the flow coming out of it, we need to have what we call a winter charge. Digging in that receiver, okay, creating a liquid seal in the bottom of that receiver and which my screen chair would work. It's just not going to show you guys a picture, but you need to understand that that receiver, the way a receiver works is, is it actually has a dip tube that runs to the bottom of the receiver and it pulls the refrigerant from the dip tube going Down the loop line to the expansion valve okay, so it's very important that the entire time that Head Master is bypassing that the refrigerant level inside that receiver level stays above where the dip tube is gon na pull the refrigerant okay, because that dip tube basically needs To pull liquid from that receiver, okay, so what we need to do is well, let's assume that we've got a properly charged system. So then, now our condenser has has bypassed okay, we filled it up with liquid refrigerant, but we still have a liquid seal inside that receiver and we are now feeding still liquid refrigerant down to your expansion valve, keep in mind the way that the Headmaster's gon na Work is that headmaster has a dome on the top of it.

It has a constant pressure in it. That's let's just say it's: 180 psi. Okay, so anytime system pressure drops below 180 psi the refrigerant the headmaster is going to adjust itself basically and it's going to close off the refrigerant flow, okay and start allowing or stop allowing the liquid refrigerant coming out of the condenser base. So anytime system pressure climbs above 180 psi, the refrigerant inside the headmaster is going to push that headmaster back open and it's gon na maintain its normal flow over trigger okay, which is the basic refrigeration cycle.

I don't think I need to go through this, but pumps out of the compressor into the condenser comes out of the condenser as the liquid goes down to your metering device. Okay, so that's the normal flow all right when it bypasses what it does. Is it shuts off the flow coming out of the condenser, and then it takes that discharge vapor from the compressor directly into the receiver? Okay, like I explained, receiver, should have a liquid seal in it or enough liquid to make sure the tip tube. It's still pulling from the bottom of the receiver and it's pushing liquid down so you're still gon na have high pressure pushing into that receiver, but you're gon na have enough liquid in the system to to still feed liquid down to our expansion valve, and that system Is going to run that way until the head pressure in the system climbs high enough to stop that valve from bypassing, then the system is going to go back into normal operation.

Now, if we follow that spoilin document that I told you about spoil in 1931 - okay, it's going to tell you how to properly calculate the flooded charge or that condenser all right now. Sometimes I find that not to be too practical and it's hard for me to give you a perfect example, but there's some times in the system that it's hard for me to know exactly how much refrigerant is still left in the system. So let's say we have a refrigerant leak wherever it's at and half of the refrigerant charges leaked out. Okay, it's difficult for me to know exactly how much of that refrigerant charge has leaked out there.

You know we could talk about that for a while, but that's kind of a difficult thing. So I did show a shortcut on how my method of checking refrigerant charge in the system is okay, and it's based off of the theory that everything in your system is sized correctly, and this is very, very important if your refrigerant receiver, your liquid line receiver, is Not sized correctly okay, you will not be able to pump it down or shut off the valve coming out of the receiver at the receiver. Okay, if it's too small, then when you try to pump it down, but system's gon na go off on high head pressure. If it was designed properly, your liquid line receiver would be able to be shut off at the valve in all the systems.

Refrigerant would stopped at the receiver and just build up inside the receiver and build up inside the condenser, and it would be plenty of room and the head pressure would not climb that's if the system is sized correctly. It's very important to understand that your system has to be sized correctly anytime. There's a headmaster involved. Your system has to decide script.

I bring this up because I run across problems where refrigeration manufacturers don't size their equipment appropriately and someone goes and installs it in a shopping mall where it has a 150-foot liquid line and then now we don't have enough storage capacity and the receiver. Ok. So again, another podcast - I don't wan na, go off on too much of a tangent, but it's very important to understand that your system has to be sized correctly, the headmaster to work properly for you to be able to pump it down at the receiver. Okay, now so, assuming that the receiver is sized correctly, what I'm gon na do is I'm going to shut off the refrigerant flow coming out of the receiver, and I'm gon na pump that system down all the refrigerant is going to back up inside that receiver.

I'm gon na do that until the low pressure control off the compressor okay, once the low pressure control has turned off the compressor, you may have to give it two times for it to cycle, because you're pressured me back up, let it cycle, then what I'm gon Na do is - and you have to be very, very careful about this. Okay, I'm gon na take a heat source, okay, something that does not get above the temperature, the the safety temperature of your receiver. Your receiver has something on it called it's off plug. Ok, the soft plug is usually a small piece of low temperature solder somewhere on there.

That has a blowout pressure of like 400 degrees. Okay. So if that receivers, internal temperature ever got above 400 degrees or the surface temperature and got to the the the point of a soft plug or that low temperature solder, it would blow that low temperature solder out and all the refrigerant before the receiver exploded and blew Shrapnel everywhere, okay, so it's very important to understand and know where the soft plug is on the receiver. If you can somehow find that soft plug and somehow know what the temperature of that soft plug the relief temperature is, what you could theoretically do is take a heat source when the receivers pump down wave it once or twice up and down the receiver, then take The heat source off that heat source again cannot get about 400 degrees, okay or whatever.

The soft plug temperature is you've removed that heat source. You can then take your fingers and run them starting at the bottom of the receiver. Up until you start to feel a temperature change, okay, you're gon na go from bottom to top and you'll see it. In my video, I went from bottom to top and I found the point at which the temperature and that receiver got red-hot the Ted.

What that meant was that was the end of my liquid level in that receiver. So this is a crude way of telling me where the hood line is in that receiver. Okay, so I took that heat source. I went up and down the receiver and again it was pumped down and again that heat source did not get about 400 degrees or whatever the soft plug blowout temperature was okay.

You have to understand what that is, and I took that heat source and I waved my fingers up and down and then I found the point and I think in the video the first time I did it. The point at which I found the heat was, like you know, a quarter of the receiver, a third of the receiver. Now, what I'm doing with this method is because I didn't know how much refrigerant had been lost out of the system. Okay, what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na put the maximum amount of refrigerant in this now.

This is not necessarily the correct way, but this is kind of a shortcut. Okay again, I've mentioned in my videos. If you're gon na take a shortcut, you better be ready for the repercussions, you better be way. It ready to know what could go wrong and what might go wrong, but assuming that we never get that receiver to temperature above the soft blood blowout point and we're safe, okay.

So the theory here is that I'm going to put the maximum amount of refrigerant. I can possibly put in this system. Okay, the maximum amount of refrigerant in this system that I ever want to feel that receiver is about 90 % full eighty to ninety percent. Okay, you never ever want to feel that return to receiver with more than 80.

Let's just call it 80 % of refrigerant, okay. That receiver needs to have room for the refrigerant to expand. Okay, if you filled it 100 % with liquid, and you would have a problem - okay, because that refrigerant again refrigerant changes state. So it changes from a vapor to a liquid, and that happens.

We can raise our pressure of our our refrigerant okay, so we need to make sure that we can never ever fill that receiver overheating. So what I can do is, I can feel the liquid level and when I started it, I knew that the liquid level was that about a third. Let's just say it was a third and I needed to put the maximum matter refrigerant. I could put in that system.

Okay. What I did was. I filled that refrigerant with liquid refrigerant. Until I got to the 80 % mark.

Okay, I just lost 75. You know just the 3/4 mark is usually where it's at now. Something to understand had I been able to use the spoilin method, the 90-30 one, which is the way that I suggest you do it, but had I been able to do that more than likely our receiver level when it was pumped down, would not have been at 80 %? Okay: how does something you have to take into consideration? How much is the difference between the calculated refrigerant level and the maximum capacity of the system? We're talking 2030 pounds? You may want to reconsider using my method, because we don't ever want to put so much refrigerant we're targeting the customer gets the money. Okay, but I'm not gon na go too crazy into this.

But if we use spore lens method, which there's nothing wrong with spoilage method, whatever suggest you do, if you do use their method, that's the right way to do it. I would suggest you go ahead and do a pump down test on this receiver and you mark. Okay, if you mark the liquid level, you could still do my test where you warm up. The receiver feel the temperature rise across the receiver, and then you could just know where the proper refrigerant charge is at and you wouldn't have to put you know, fill the receiver up to the maximum capacity.

So my method of warming up the receiver with the heat, some sort of heat device - still works for it for using Orleans meant that do you would still calculate the charge, use their method and then just mark the level of the receiver. And then you know from that point forward. If you ever have a leak again, you just fill it up to that mark. You know, that's the calculated amount to fill that receiver up okay, but because I couldn't do that in my situation.

What I did was, I went ahead and filled that receiver up eighty percent, okay or the three-quarter mark of the receiver, and I basically did it I put more refrigerant in it. I started out a third and I added refrigerant. It's all. I got to the three-quarter mark.

I needed that I had the maximum amount of refrigerant in that system and the system would operate properly. Okay. Now I would highly suggest that you guys look at that document that I mentioned in 1932. F.

One Orlin also has two more documents concerning head pressure: head pressure, control valves or low ambient controls. Okay, those other documents are swirlin 90-30. You can just google search. These they'll come right up: okay, so spoilin 90-30 and also spoiling 90 198.

Okay. Oh, if you look up those two documents you will, you will find all kinds of information. I should say three documents: okay, so as for Lynn, 90 198 talks about the fundamentals of a head pressure control, okay of what it does for you and why you use it okay, it goes in a lot more in-depth than to what I was talking about. Okay and if you go to swirlin 90-30, it's gon na talk about head pressure, control valves in general, not just low ambient controls, okay and define them and explain them a little bit more and then 90-30.

That's one is how to charge the system in what you're going to do is you're, going to measure the total equivalent length of the condenser tubes you're, going to find out the total flooded charge, how much refrigerant it would take to fill a condenser up and flood. It completely or flood it to whatever level you need to flood it to to maintain proper head pressure. It is also important to understand that in Spore lens 90-30, one document is going to explain to you and help you to figure out how much of your condenser you actually need to flood, because, depending on your lowest ambient temperature of the year, you may not need To flood that condenser as much as someone in Minnesota might have here in Southern California, my absolutely coldest temperature - and I know most - you guys - are going to hate me for this, but my absolute coldest temperature that I've ever seen where I live is 30 degrees and That is extreme. It probably didn't maintain that for more than six hours, okay, on average, during the wintertime, we maintain sixty-five degrees.

We might have a low in the 50s, but it doesn't get very cold okay, but we still do run into headmaster valves and we still need them for low ambient control, because any time you drop theoretically below 70 degrees, you really should have for a constant long Period of time, you really should have some kind of a low ambient control help you to maintain that pressure differential across your expansion boat. Okay. So what are some things that your, if you have, are not maintaining that pressure differential across that expansion valve? What can happen is that expansion valve can start to act erratically. It won't work correctly.

Okay, it may not maintain super heat. You essentially could run really high superheat. You could cause all kinds of problems in the system, so it's important that we maintain that constant pressure differential across that ahead. Now, I'm you know across that expansion valve okay.

Now, when you start to get into the newer systems that have electronically controlled expansion valves, it's very interesting to know that they're able to widen the pressure differential across the valve, because the valve has better control of the the the supervee. Basically okay as Brian or says. Our expansion valve is a constant super deep okay, so the whole point of the expansion valve is to maintain a constant superheat right. So, but when you get into the electronic expansion valves or electronically controlled expansion valves, what you'll start to see is you'll start to see.

Headmaster's that have a much lower cut in pressure or bypass pressure, you know, allows them to get the condensing temperature a lot cooler that way to try to get more energy efficiency out of the system and we're not gon na go crazy into that right now. Okay, so it's really really important. I want you guys to understand that in my video I did show you a shortcut. It is not necessarily the right way to do it.

It is a shortcut you do have to know what you're doing when you use that shortcut and always understand that if you do use a shortcut be ready for the repercussions of said shortcut. Okay, that's my cover. My ass disclaimer, all right. What I'm gon na do? I'm gon na look over get the chat for a second, I'm sure you guys a lot of stuff going on here.

I'm going to kind of scroll back up here a little bit and see what we got going on in the comments here. All right. Okay, very! Very important something I want to point out. Someone pointed it out in the comments.

Sometimes I assume that people understand exactly what I'm talking about and know what I'm saying. If you have an ice machine that has a remote condenser, I don't care if it's a Manitowoc cool vapour discharge system or CDE system. I don't care if it's your traditional remote system, where you just have a condenser on the roof and the compressors downstairs anytime. You have a remote condenser on a nice and cheap okay.

You will see a headmaster Dolf. It's very important to understand the method that I told you about checking the liquid light or liquid level on a receiver. It does not apply to an expert with an ice machine and ice machine doesn't matter what brand it is. It's critically tart, meaning that you don't just add gas in move on.

Okay, if I have a nice machine that has a refrigerant leak, there's no way of knowing how much refrigerator you don't run sight glasses on and that you have receivers sometimes, but we don't run sight less. Okay, because you can't charge by a sight glass on the right solution, it's critically charged. If you do have a refrigerant leak, you have to recover all the charge fix leak and way to charge back you. Okay, there is methods of temporarily adding gas to a nice machine.

A lot of the most, I think, Hoshizaki says, don't ever add more than four pounds. I think at a time, but still the right way to do it on an ice machine is always recover. The charge fake steadily way in the chart? Okay, so you can't use this method on an ice machine at all. Okay, my shortcut method.

My shortcut method is only gon na work on a refrigeration system, a walk-in cooler, walk-in freezer, builds up air conditioning system or reaching cooler that has a remote condenser on okay, so long as the receivers adequately sized in the system. Okay, the reason why you will see a headmaster on an item is that ice machines are all going to use some sort of a hot gas or a cool vapour discharge. Okay, look at that being said in order to use a hot guest, I'm sorry defrost. In order to do a hot s defrost, we have to have a very, very small pressure swing essentially in the system, and we have to maintain that head pressure.

We have to have that hot discharged gas or that warm vapor coming off the top of the receiver. Vice versa, the reason why I say cool vapors, if you know anything about a man, talks, cvd ice machines, that cool day for discharge. They use a different method instead of using hot as to defrost the ice. They take cool vapor off the top of the receiver and they call it cool paper, which is warm vapor off the top of the receiver and they melt ice off that way, but even still with a cool, vapor defrost or a hot gas defrost.

You need that head pressure to be high enough to melt that ice up. Okay, so you're always going to see a head master on an ice that has a remote. Typically, don't see him on the self-contained ice machines, I'm not going to say you never will, but you will see a hot gas, a frost on a self-contained, but the fact it's self-contained. They assume that it's going to be located in an ambient.

You know that's above 70 degrees at all times, so it's very important. I'm going to go back over here to the comments again real, quick, okay, um prime time you said Head Master valves are useless. You know they have. Master valves can be very frustrating.

Okay, the they can be hard to diagnose, okay, there's all kinds of ways that they can fail. I can do a whole another video on okay, but they can be very hard to diagnose and it's very important that you, you understand, how they work, because it does help you to understand how to diagnose and yeah. You know I mean they're a pain in the butt, but you know what they're necessarily evil, especially when we have cold climates. To maintain.

You know our our pressure differential across that expansion valve. There is other methods of doing um head pressure control. Okay, we can also do fan cycling where we shut off a condenser family, or we can stage condenser fan motors. We do all kinds of stuff: okay, there's Goods and Bad's to both fan cycle.

Controls tend to be a little hard on system, meaning that they shut off. It drives your head pressure, really high, really quick, and then they turn on. And then your head pressure drops really fast on a head master valve or you know it's. It's a constant.

A nice slow, steady, buildup, nothing harsh, nothing, crazy, fast, it's just nice and slow. So I I do like head masters. I do think that they're good. I think that a lot of people have a hard time diagnosing them and they do cause some problems.

Okay, but it's very important to understand that you have to have the proper charge for a head master to work. Okay, so before I go back to the comments, let's go on this one too, you know it's really important to understand that a head master is very rarely gon na be used in the summertime. Okay. So that's why that receiver needs to be sized correctly because typically were not going, and removing refrigerant in the summertime system should be sized correctly, that that refrigerant can sit and be stored in that receiver all summer long, and it would only use what it needs to Clear the sight, glass and the rest of it is just backed up in the receiver.

Okay, when the Headmaster's, not we tend to get a lot of service, calls right now, because it's cooler weather right now, it's just it's fall. So it's just starting to get cool and what has happened is is we've had a lot of extra refrigerant stored on that receiver all summer long and so there's been a leak in it. Let's just say: okay, but only a little bit, not enough, because we had an extra, let's say six pounds of gas in there. So all summer long it's been slowly leaking out that six pounds and then right now the first fall day.

All the sudden, the pressure in the system drops low enough for that headmaster to bypass, and we don't have enough refrigerant in the system anymore, okay and the most common call I'm gon na get right now is they're gon na call me and say: hey my walk-in Cooler when I first get there in the morning, my walk-in cooler is at 55 degrees and it's making this hissing sound inside, but then come 12:30 in the afternoon. It works fine, then it runs great until the next morning and then it stops working again. Okay, you can show up at 2:00 o'clock in the afternoon. You may walk up to the system and it's down to temp and everything's great.

It's got a clear sight. Glass, everybody's happy, but what's happening is so good. So you know in the summer time or even when you're walking up and it's warmer outside, you may not notice that the system is low on refrigerant and that's why it's important to mark your receiver level when you do figure out the correct charge, because you can Always just pump it down real quick. If you suspect it's low on charge, you can check that receiver level.

So let's say you went through spoil ends method and you found out the right way to charge it you mark it. You feel it and you say: hey this thing: had this much refrigerant in it, you know, and you know where that level is, you can fill it up so there okay. So, that's that's why it's important to make sure that this charge is correct, because I'm the time when it starts getting cooler outside we're really gon na start getting a lot more of these halls, because it's slowly been leaking all summer long. But it wasn't low enough to make a site less flash in the summer time so now that we need extra virgin flood and answer, that's when we're really going to start to see the the the refrigerant shortage make itself come, you know into the light.

Okay, I'm gon na go down to the bottom and just trying to go down here familia sanchez. Thank you very much dude. I really appreciate that. It was really nice of you, Andrew Jax, I'm just going to work up from the bottom.

Okay, I'm just gon na go for you. If you have any other questions or things you want me to point out or talk about the bring it into the comments right now so yeah. So you added six pounds to your system to temporarily get it going, and you that's something that I would do too. In fact, I had a technician on a service call that while they're going a walk-in cooler and system was blowing gas, he topped it off and you know we'll go back there and figure out.

What's going on, let's see Randy, you know yeah. If a head master fails, Randy says that he's seen Headmaster's go bad and kill compressors. I guess I could see that. So what let's talk about a few different ways that a headmaster can fail? Okay headmaster can fail in two ways it opens, or it doesn't know.

I guess you can say three door gets stuck open. Okay, I guess that's two! Really! Okay, what you'll get is in the summertime. You'll get a system that you'll go out there and you'll be just going off on high head pressure constantly, and it's just going crazy. If it has a head pressure control, okay, let's assume that our systems all have head pressure safety controls on them because they need to if they don't.

Okay, that is where a headmaster would kill a compressor in an instant okay, because if it gets stuck open, okay and it's - I passing the condenser in the summertime - we have a problem. We are going to go off on high air pressure instantly because there's nothing to reject the heat out of that refrigerant. Coming out of the compressor, so it'd be dumped right into your receiver and your system would instantly go off on high head pressure. And/Or thermal overload again or a catastrophic destruction of the plate.

Okay, so it's very important that your systems have functioning high pressure controls very, very important. I don't! I think that we don't test those enough. I mean even I don't test a high pressure control enough. It's really simple: just to disconnect the connector family door block off a condenser and test the high pressure gauges on it make sure it's set at 400.

You know, or whatever your refrigerant is, I'm thinking a 404 we're gon na set it about 450. Typically, you know and watch it cut out at 450 psi, it's not something that you want to do every day, but it you know we should probably be testing our high pressure cutouts. If we could, I mean in a perfect world, if you could unscrew your high-pressure cut out and put it on a bottle of nitrogen. I mean this way to test and see what it cuts in and cuts out of.

But you know we oftentimes can't get the high pressure controls off so, but yes, I guess in that way, if you didn't have a high pressure control Head Master could kill a compressor easily. Let me also tell you that Headmaster's typically don't fail. Ok, for just you know any reason norm, I would guess if we had someone from spoiling on here, that they would say that the failure rate for Headmaster's, I would guess, would be like 95 %. Is people not using proper refrigeration practices, not brazing with nitrogen, not properly evacuating the system not putting on liquid line filter dryers Headmaster's, get stuck when things that are floating in the system? It's stuck in it and doing a lot about the clothes same thing with expansion valves, typically, expansion valves don't fail other than maybe a thermostatic element or a power head going.

Bad, ok, but typically the internals of the valve, usually don't fail all right. You wouldn't even call the whole debacle with rust inhibitor in the compressors. You know an expansion valves, fault yeah. The expansion valves were didn't all come up, but it wasn't their fault that there was a contaminated system.

Ok, so I would. I would argue that a headmaster typically doesn't fail on that. If it does fail majority of the time it's going to be because there's something floating around my system and someone before you didn't do their job properly. Isiah yeah, you are correct.

Isaiah's AC kit, guys yeah. You know it's gon na have yeah, I guess that's a way to say you know the bucket just sits there fills up and the dip tube at the top of the receiver is drawn from the bottom of the bucket. Okay and you know in the summertime. It's just gon na sit there at how you know three-quarters of a pocket or half a bucket, but in the wintertime, is when it's really going to start using that refrigerant.

So it's important, I, like your bucket analogy. That's a pretty good one! Actually, it's important to know that in the summer or in the wintertime, when it starts to flood that condenser, that liquid level does not drop below the dip tube in the bottom of the receiver. That's pulling from the bottom because that dip tube needs to have at liquid refrigerant always feeding downstairs with high pressure refrigerant put on top of it, so Ryan, Leary 450 psi is a pretty darn normal pressure for us here in SoCal in the middle of the summer. This last summer we broke a record for an entire day.

We had 120 degree ambient temperature outside. I have a video on my channel about a walk-in freezer and I I don't know the name of it right now. Actually I'll try to find it here. So I can tell you where I was on top of a shopping mall and granted it wasn't in the perfect environment.

It was in a parking structure. My head pressure in the system was 450 psi going off on high head pressure and what was interesting, let's just even step out of that system. I had other systems that were outside in outdoor ambient running on a hundred and twenty degrees ambient temperature. My head pressure in that floor for a system was just through the roof.

We were tripping head pressure controls. We couldn't go around to reset them fast enough, and there was nothing that we could do, because nothing was wrong with the system other than it was being so hot outside. There was actually a couple videos that I did this summer where I was literally, and this is a horrible thing to do, but I was literally going around putting on misters on all my condensers in my area, because there was nothing I could do. The compressors were going off on thermal overload right because yes run now.

450. Psi was not good, but there was nothing wrong with the system. It was just too darn hot outside the systems were sized right. The condensers were sized right everything.

It was just ridiculously hot, but yeah we broke a record, we've never hit 120. It was literally at my house, it was nuts and it was for a solid date and then later in the week, we we did 117 118 and even still you're pushing for 50 psi. No problem yeah. It's not good for the discharge valves that compressor.

But what can you do? You know there's nothing you can do. The only thing I was doing to save the day was just putting misters on my condenser and I'm seeing the repercussions of it out because those systems have a calcium, build up all over the condensers. Now - and I mean the misters were on there for about two or three weeks straight because of the high temperatures we had like, I would go turn it off and then two days later call back out there. So I just got sick of blowing back and forth.

So I just left and running and yeah. That was a crazy. This was a crazy summer. We had some high temps, it was nuts and the 450 cut out.

There was nothing you can do if you put about 400 mm you'd ruin that compressor I'd be going off on thermal overload so fast. It was like that you couldn't win because a 400 psi cut out the compressor would short cycle almost because it would turn on turn turn on turn off. If you put it to 450, you know it would run longer, but in the compressor would you know obviously start killing itself inside it was just a brutal summer for us net I'd say: normally we hit on an extreme high at 110 115, but we actually have 120 yeah, I I know the Colorado stuff: yeah, 350 yeah, that's an extreme! You know there, but here yeah, that's crazy cool! So do you guys have any other questions? There's a couple other things I want to talk about right here. It's important to understand what we call that liquid level and the receiver okay, and I understand how a receiver works.

You guys can Google search a receiver and just type in what the language C verb it to and it'll show you guys what the inside of a receiver looks like it's not just a vessel. It has that the receiver has a dip tube coming in going up. Typically about an inch or two from the bottom of the receiver, so it draws from the bottom of the receiver, so it doesn't just draw. You know, push refrigerant in and put your finger out.

It actually pushes refrigerant in and draws that refrigerant from the receiver. So it's very important to make sure that we have that liquid seal inside there at all times yeah. I would. I would really strongly suggest you guys, google search those Portland documents.

I would also suggest that you guys look up a craft refrigeration. It's he craft, our PD mouth fault on our PD, calm all right and go to their literature tab. If you look at Pete Craft refrigerant and go to their church right on the top go to miscellaneous, there's some good information there, I'm gon na tell you guys something that sport lends method: the 90-30 190 30 and the form 90 198. I should say: 90 30.

One, the methods that give you will only work on a a tube and fin condenser, okay, tube and fin is a standard, copper tube with aluminum fins on it. It will not work on a microchannel condenser, because microchannel uses a different method. Okay of refrigerant, it doesn't use copper lines. This is kind of a gray area, because the manufacturers don't tell you how to check the liquid layer how to how to properly charge a microchannel condenser when you're using micro channels, heat craft, has recently gone to micro, channel condensers for all their little refrigeration des Nuits And with the heat craft, condensing units, there's no, you can't use that spoiling method.

That's that's outlined in 90-30, one document. Okay, so you have two ways of doing it. You can follow heat crafts document that they have you guys can just google searched google search heat craft, h, h, TS, q, a dkg humans, go to heat, crap, RPD, calm, look at the literature and just scroll through the documents and you'll see it. But this is how to properly charge a microchannel condenser, and they tell you to do - is just way in a certain charge.

After you've cleared the sight glass above a 70 degree. Outdoor ambient and the difficult thing about that is. Is their method? Tells you how much extra refrigerant to add per condensing unit? Okay, so on this particular I'm looking at the chart right now, I wish I could show you guys my thing, but it doesn't let me, but on this particular sheet right now, an O 40 X. Six condensing unit, I'm gon na, add an extra one point: two five pounds to compensate for the Headmaster's in that system, but the problem is, is that I go out there and I find out that the system has a leak.

How much has leaked out of that? 1.25 pounds - and I don't know so that's why I use my method to find the liquid level and the receiver and put the maximum amount in there, because it makes it difficult to find out exactly how much of the winter charge is already leaked out. Okay, so that's where I fill that receiver up to 90 % and call it a day, because I know I can't put any more refrigerant in that system. Safe, so ya go to heat craft, our PD comm you'll find under literature. You can you can look up.

It says one half six horsepower air-cooled condensing unit with hyper core micro channel coil technology frequently asked questions. Click on that and it'll show you their method of figuring out. That's for heat craft only that doesn't apply to any other manufacturer. That's using a micro, channel, refrigeration, condenser.

Okay, let me keep seeing it okay, there is methods of doing things like cooling down the condenser with cold water. Seeing people do it not saying it's not going to work. I guess it would work okay, but it's it's kind of like I just don't use that. I really don't know what kind of problems like potentially running to I've always been told that if you run cold water across a condenser that you can actually put way too much refrigerant in it.

But I guess, if you pumped down your liquid line receiver after you added that refrigerant, okay, then yeah, I guess that would work as long as you know, the liquid line receiver doesn't have too much refrigerant. Let me step back a little bit. Let's make a point here that I have a maiden and that probably should have paid if we're working on a refrigeration system that has an expansion valve and a liquid line: receiver: okay, we're not going to use superheat and sub coin to charge this system. Let's make that clear right now, you're, not gon na sub coins gon na go out the door.

Okay, subcooling is an indication of problems. The sub point is not a method to charge: okay on eight refrigeration system, with a liquid line receiver with a liquid line receiver, we are going to use a sight glass bottom line. Okay, that sight glass needs to be clear when the system is almost at temperature. Okay, you do not leave bubbles in the sight glass, you do not ignore a sight glass, a sight glass on a refrigeration system.

The liquid light indicator is there if you tell us if there's liquid in the system now I will be careful, and I will you know, tell you that a sight glass can also be used as a moisture indicator on an air conditioning system, a non built-up air Conditioning system - and that, could you know you don't want to charge by a sight glass on an air conditioning system that doesn't have a receiver. Okay, you would. But if you have a receiver on your system - and it has a sight glass that sight glass will be clear when its operating properly okay, you will - and you do have to clear that sight, glass, okay and that's the whole point of the liquid level inside the Receiver is to ensure that we have a clear, solid column of liquid going to our expansion belt. Your expansion valve accepts liquid on one side and sends a vapor liquid mixture out on the other side.

It does not accept a vapor on one side of that expansion about it has to have a liquid, solid column of liquid going to that expansion off for it to work correctly. Okay, there's a lot of variables in our system, but I'm just I really didn't go into the refrigeration cycle here, I'm just talking about how to properly charge the system with the headmaster all right. Another thing that I will preface is um. You know if you walk up to a refrigeration system that has a sight glass on it and it's cold outside and a sight.

Glass is flashing. That tells you that that system is low on charge, but you want to make sure that the system is not currently pumping down, okay and that it is not paced up. Okay, these are these. Are I'm not going into this because I'm not teaching you guys basic refrigeration, we're just talking about a head master, so I'm assuming that you guys don't understand how these things work.

You know you don't go adding charge until you make sure that it has proper air flow. It's not iced up, and you know once you've done those two things. Then you can start adjusting your do not ever ever ever, adjust refrigerant charge without putting your high side and your low side gauges on the system. Do not just charge with your load side on them.

That doesn't do anything for you, because you need to know. What's going on in the high side of your system? Okay, but again this point in two basic steps: we don't need to go crazy with that right now, so I'm gon na just scroll through the comments here again: real, quick Dave. Okay, you make a good point. He says, with a larger system: state 10 plus pounds in a leak with blended, refrigerants, a floor floor, it's better to recover and start over yes and no 404.

Okay, some people have talked about refrigerant, fractionation impacts. Okay, fractionating is when the refrigerants inside of refrigerants separate. Okay, if you don't understand, I'm not a genius when it comes to this stuff, okay, but I'm just gon na give you guys my 10 cents on it: okay, refrigeration system, our refrigerant that any of the refrigerants right now, I think, almost all the refrigerants. No, not not the r22, but all of your blends.

Okay, they're gon na be a mixture of multiple and had different temperatures. Those refrigerants can boil off okay, so there is something that can happen as fractionation in your refrigerant and it has in the beginning. It was really stressed just like the whole, don't mix POA and mineral oil in the beginning. It was stressed that if he mixed a drop of mineral and a drop of ble, that it would be the end of the world.

Okay and we've since learned that it doesn't it's not good, but it's not the end of the world if you eat a little bit of mixture, okay, so we've kind of calm down on that one. The same thing goes with the fractionation. That is not of all refrigerants. A fluorophore doesn't fraction eight easily.

It takes some time I'm not saying that it that leak about ten pounds of a 20 pound charge that it would be right if you just talked off the chart, but I have done it and it works. Fine. Okay. 404, doesn't fraction eight very easily as easily as some other gases.

Okay, so you know you got a got to make a judgment. Call on that one. I would probably you know if someone called me and said dude, this thing's leaked out three-quarters of the charge. What do I do? I'd probably advise them to go ahead and cover a little charge would start over.

Yes, that would be a good, safe way of doing it, but I will tell you that refrigerant leaks with 404. It's not the end of the world. I would say once you get past the halfway mark is when you need to start getting scared after part. Okay, again, I know it's hard to understand exactly how much refrigerator walk-in cooler my AB, you can kind of start to understand.

If you look up part numbers from receivers, you can know that particular receiver has capacity. So you know, if you have to add five pounds, then yeah. You know you may want to talk to someone about changing all that, but in a perfect world I would say when you go to make the repair go ahead and change the refrigerant. Now just a safe face, but you know if I'm going to get them going temporarily, I'm probably just going to top off the charge with 404.

That does not apply to other refrigerants. Okay, that's my experience with it. I know that I've heard a lot there's some people that are much smarter than me telling me that exact fact that the fractionation rate of 404 is very low, but you know that's just something I don't um. Let's see rehear has comments here going through here.

Seeing I'm seeing if there's any questions that I haven't answered or anything in here guys. So if you have anything that you get in the back, I'm gon na put it down in the bottom of the comments again. So I'm just kind of going back up, seeing if I missed anything from you guys here see if I missed. I think this is kind of about all that I want to cover here, not seeing any other questions.

Man um guys. I don't know if these questions are meant towards me. I think you guys are having a conversation in here because you're asking what company someone works for for HVAC apprentice, toltec you're, asking that I'm assuming you're asking that to other people, guys I'm not some. Some of you have asked me the name of my company.

I prefer to keep that private just because there's some jackasses on YouTube. That you'd be surprised. I guess some people they're jackasses, let's just say that okay, so I try to keep my company name out of the line like I would appreciate you know some of you guys do know my company name out of her cheek. It's not that I'm doing anything wrong at all.

I know that I don't do anything wrong in my videos, but I just like to keep the public eye off of my company at all possible, so is trend using micro channel. I don't I don't think trend is using micro channel, but I haven't seen a new trend in a while. I haven't installed a trend in over ten years, so I don't know if they're using it yet burn the world yeah. That's kind of my thing too.

You know, I think the fractionation was just is exist, don't get me wrong, but I think it was kind of overhyped a little bit so Andrew Jackson. That is a great question and I have yet to get a thermal, imager and Hudak's asked. If you can see the good level of a thermal camera, I have been wanting a thermal imager, so bad for a while, and I just haven't been able to justify the cost for a not cheapo one. I.