Hvacr Videos Drive time talk about pump down refrigeration systems, and answering viewer comments.
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Hey guys, can you guys hear me? Is there anybody even watching okay? Can you hear me okay Pam. Can you hear me okay, cool right on? I just wanted to make sure that my audio was coming through okay right on guys. Well, I just have a little bit of time while I'm driving, so I figured I'd, do a little chat here. I've been getting a lot of questions well, first off, I'm gon na try to pay attention to you guys's comments, but I am driving.
So I have to be careful, so forgive me if I don't get some right away, but I've been getting a lot of questions, a lot of really good feedback on my YouTube page lots of emails. I did a live thing on Facebook, the other day and kind of addressed this a little bit, but I kind of wanted to try out the YouTube live thing and address it to you know I try to get back to you guys's comments as much as possible. There is a lot of them and there's a lot of questions and it's interesting. I have no problem at Mustard uh.
Some of them are pretty technical, so it's not a quick answer, so I just haven't had a chance to get to some of them. I'm not ignoring you guys if I, if I haven't responded yet, if you guys don't hear from me within a day or two send me a message again, there's a lot coming through, so sometimes I don't get to them. So what I wanted to talk about a little bit today was basic refrigeration systems. You know pump down refrigeration systems, especially so we're talking like locking, coolers and remote reach and refrigeration systems that utilize a liquid line receiver as a storage tank for the liquid refrigerant, as it comes out of the condenser okay, a lot of people have some confusion on Those especially the guys that are coming from the air-conditioning side, the residential air conditioning side and they don't understand the idea of the pump down system, so we're just kind of go over the basic description here.
Okay, so you've got a basic refrigeration system. You have a compressor, you have a condenser, you have any vaporators and you have a metering device. Okay, of course, you've got fan motors and all that stuff. Okay.
But what we're gon na do is we're gon na add a storage vessel into this unit. Okay and it's gon na allow us to pump down the system via a liquid line, Silla node valve in the liquid line that shuts off the refrigerant flow, and then you have the compressor, still running and running and running, but the refrigerant flow has been shut down. So your low side slowly gets lower and lower and lower, because the refrigerants being stopped coming out of the receiver and the low side will get lower and lower and lower until you usually have a low-pressure control that cuts the system out and shuts it off. Okay, the low-pressure control can also act as a what's there to act as a loss of charge switch in case the system ever runs out of gas.
It's also there to act as a obviously to pump there to shut the compressor off when it pumps down, which kind of is essentially the same thing. It's looking for a loss of charge and that's the basic pump down system. Okay, it may get confusing. You know. I've had people ask questions, you know where where's the liquid line solenoid valve supposed to be it can be located at the condensing unit or it can be located at the evaporator oftentimes you're, going to see it located at the evaporator coil and it'll, basically just pump Down the system there: okay, when now the thing that controls the liquid line, Silla might valve, is typically the thermostat inside the walk-in. Let's just assume we're talking about a walk-in cooler right now, so inside the walk-in cooler you usually have a thermostat and that thermostat breaks line voltage going to that silhouette valve. Then the silhouette valve shuts down and again, like I explained the compressors going to run and run and run, but the flow is going to be shut down the refrigerant. So it's going to get lower and lower and lower on the low side, as the refrigerant is basically just stacking up in the receiver.
So the receivers are usually size, big enough to store all that refrigerant and then some as we come into this cooler season, we're going to add another component to this walk-in system and we're going to add a low ambient control, a headmaster, okay, the Headmaster's there to Bypass the refrigerant flow or to stop the refrigerant flow coming out of the condenser and it basically simulates a warm day. That's in a nutshell, it's kind of hard for me to explain that, while I'm driving, I can. I think I have some videos that explain the headmaster function properly, but the reason why I bring up the headmaster is because we want to make sure that our system, especially our liquid liner receiver, has enough storage capacity to store the extra refrigerant we need for when The system pumps down because our system, if it has a headmaster on it's, typically going to need an extra couple pounds of gas there's a calculation you can do to operate with the headmaster by pencil. So it's very important to understand how to charge a refrigeration system that has a headmaster and again I don't have any of the documents with me.
But if you look ups more LaVon, not online spoiler valve company, don't quote me on this, but I believe its technical bulletin 90.1. I think it's 90.1 I'll have to put it in the show notes. If I'm wrong about technical document, it uh it tells you how to properly evaluate how much extra refrigerant your your system needs when for the winter charge. You know when you have a head message, so it's very important that you verify that you have that right charge in the system.
A common service call that we're going to get is if someone can a service ball or repair in the summertime and they fix the system, but they didn't add the winter charge. You actually refrigerant needed for the headmaster that, in the wintertime, you're probably can get called back out when that headmaster bypasses on that walking. I'm gon na look at some of these comments right here that you guys have got going on and see. If I can, let's go back here, guys can hear me Isiah, you want to know about testo versus and field piece. You know that's kind of a hard one, because I've never used testo products. Besides, you know, I think I have a very small game. Anemometer that's test. Oh I've never been a test, Oh person, so I've always been a field piece person.
So I don't think I'd be the right person to compare the two. I've looked at the test. Oh products, last year, oh sorry got lost there for a minute. Isiah I've used the test.
I haven't looked at the test of products, but I really thing on how well they work itself, I'm not the right person to answer that question. Sorry idea, I will tell you that I, like the the field peace products, because their warranty alone is amazing and I'm a little law biased when it comes to field peace, because I've done some work with them in the past too. So, like I said, I don't think it's very fair for me to answer which ones better test or feel nice, let's see because I slowed down in traffic right now. Look at some of these questions.
I say I said you have a new video. You said coming out on school Jimmy, no, I'm not in the passenger seat. It's because I've got my camera recording from the from the screen side on my phone, so everything's reversed. So it looks like I'm driving at a European car or something like that.
But now I'm not it's just the way that the camera angle is because on these cameras, when you do the selfie mode or whatever you know it doesn't I don't know, I don't know what it is. I think it's like mirrors or something do we have any guys in here that do refrigeration work Alexander. I know you do refrigeration work. I didn't know that I said you did.
You refer her to refrigeration work on Felipe Asya, so I got an interesting thing too. I had a service call today, one of my normal customers. It's a big comedy club on an RT, u unit and went out there to check out the RT u unit and it had two new compressors in it, but one of them was already bad. I hadn't put the compressors in they had someone else.
Do the work and I was kind of confused as I'm looking at all. There are tu units, they've got a kitchen, they have a showroom and they have two for their showroom. Well, I had condemned at the beginning, probably about a year ago I condemn to Chu compressors on their kitchen a/c, and I hadn't been back since because they never gave me the quote. Well, I've went back today and found that they used another contractor to install the compressors, but they installed him in the wrong AC and then on top of that, one of the compressors that they installed is also bad.
So their kitchen AC still has two bad compressors, and now one of their showroom ACS has one bad compressor and the kicker is. It was about a year it's two weeks ago that they had those changed, so the other contractor Adam and what they were doing. They. They replaced the wrong compressors and on top of that, one of them's bad, I'm pretty sure it's bad because they use em o99 refrigerant on a trade treaty, scroll compressor. Actually, no, it's not a 3d scroll. It's just one of the Train compressors with our compressors and I've not had good luck with mo 99 in Trane units, so that kind of sucks for the customer. But it's kind of one of those things. That's kind of funny to kind of laugh about that, so that was an interesting one.
I was kind of going through it trying to figure it all out. It really didn't make sense to me and I had to track down a bunch of emails and and then I figured out everything they basically had. The other contractor come in and changed the wrong compressor, it's kind of what they get for doing that you know not using me to replace the compressors so we'll see if they let me replace the two compressors in the kitchen AC now and now the other compressor Too I say you asked how I like the SMAN. I always liked the us man and you know, field piece - is doing a lot of innovation right now and they're they're they're really starting to come up with some really cool products.
You know the SMAN is cool. I really like the the job link ropes, especially since they partnered up and let measure quick operate with them. So buddy I still like the Iceman's, and you know I can't say much but stay tuned, there's some new stuff coming out. So that's all I'm gon na say be ready.
So Adam. You asked what r22 replacements I've used. Personally, I've used r22 replacements three times two of the times. It's failed me and the only gas I've used was our 427 a.
I have gone back to use in our 22, so I currently don't use any r22 replacements I only his r22, so I've gotten over I've gotten away with using the r22 replacements. I used for 27a on a carrier package unit that had an actual fixed metering device and we had bad oil return problems and I'm also used it on a train with the 3ds role and that's why I learned that you cannot ever use an alternative refrigerants on A training above the 3ds role, especially when it has a mineral oil in it. So I don't care what the manufacturers say about their oil return with mineral oil. It's if you read down to it the only way that those alternative refrigerants work is if they have polyester or aluminum.
That's just my stance on it. I don't use any alternatives. If the customer wants an alternative, then you know I would maybe consider it, but they would have to sign a lot of paperwork saying I'm not going to be liable. I can't warranty anything, not an alternative.
Yeah. I've heard about new 22, but yeah yeah, Peter 22 is still a thing in the States. We can still get it it's readily available and the price is actually just dropped, so we're able to get it for. I can't remember, and it's not it's - it's dropped over the summer and it last year it got really really expensive, but the prices dropped significantly down and the supply has you know. Basically, it was a lot of hype, then raising the prices. It's kinda heated feed in here, so yeah we're still using our 22 yeah. I've heard about all those different replacements, Jacob I've seen rs40 for PE. I've heard them all, but you know the interesting thing is that if you look at the chemical makeup of every one of those drop-in replacement gases, they're all the same all of them, they all have the same gases in them.
It's just all percentages of things that they add to those gases to try to get a better or returning different things. They're all the same. They really aren't you know they add a little butane or whatever they add to them. You know just to get oil returned, but I just I'm not a fan of them.
They're pretty much all the same in my book. I don't you know, I don't really buy all the efficiency, stuff and minimally fish. I mean they just with the headaches involved in it. It's just cheaper and easier for me with my customers to use our 22 so and that's in packaged units.
Don't even get me started on about B. Isn't it in refrigeration, because that's where I'd really get worried about oil return problem? So there was one video that I made about using our 427 a and a refrigeration condensing unit now as a temporary thing, but that system also had polyester oil in it. So yeah Alexander, you know, was interesting. I was, I don't know if anybody on hears from Europe, but I was talking through the comments with someone from Europe and they were telling me that they can't even get our 22 anymore period.
So it's very interesting yeah. I can go to my supply house and buy right now all day long so and the price is not not expensive, so I mean don't get me wrong. It's it's a lot cheaper than it was. I think at one point we were approaching $ 800.
A drum of 22 but uh, it's not a, I want to say it's $ 450, a drum right now or something like that. So yeah, that's it's it's fine! It's not bad at all! So yeah they talked about. You know this whole phase-out before we had our current president come in, and you know the change in office and all that stuff they have talked about. You ever really pushing hard to face out all those refrigerants and when we got the new administration in there, they kind of relaxed on a lot of the phase-out stuff.
So yeah, it's definitely calmed down a bit. Yeah Alexandra's its. I want to say it's more 50 or less a drum right now, so so it's it's getting a lot cheaper and I've. Even you know I do commercial refrigeration work for restaurants.
You know in the HVAC and stuff and I do big chain restaurants. I have a few small mom and pops, but not a lot and the chain, restaurants, I have approached and the powers that be the facilities, managers and stuff about using alternative refrigerants and each one of my chain. Restaurants has has I'm gon na pull over here each one of my chain. Restaurants has told me they don't want me to use any replacement gases. So Joel you hate our 290. Why do you hate our 290 Joel? I work on it with my you know: small refrigeration systems, quite a bit and I've I haven't, had really any problems with it. The only problems like even the systems that I've had it hasn't been the gas. That's been a problem.
It's been, it's been poor installation. The manufacturers of our equipment, the one that I've worked on the our 290 n, is delfield and delfield outsourced their manufacturing to Mexico now and the quality of manufacturing has gone downhill and all of my repairs, I think I've done five or six arching. Ninety repairs and all, but one was factory installation problems, bad welding practices, one of them. We had a really dirty system and everything the it kept getting contaminated.
It would plug up the pressure controls it plugged up the liquid dryer. So obviously, someone didn't properly evacuate the system and on I had one come one system where a compressor went bad. That was it, but everything else has been leaks like they missed welds, that's a delfield thing so where they, I literally take them off the pallet and they don't have gas in them sometimes, and it's not just on our to 90 on the Delft fields. I see that on 404, a units too so, but you know it's one of those things we got to get used to because in the chain, restaurants that I work with everybody is the manufacturers are all going to propane, so just got to kind of get used To it, you know, I think the scariest part about doing the propane systems is when you're all done taking your service gauges off.
If you're gon na follow the warranty requirements to pinch off the system and wall them shut with RT 90. On the other side of that pinch, that's kind of shady I've done it quite a few times, but I'm starting to wonder about my employees doing that, I'm starting to wonder about just there was one system where, at the end, I I pinched off the I'm sorry. I didn't pinch it off when I was all done. I just put a locking service caps on it and then put red tape all over them.
So that way, I think the biggest thing is. Is that so that way, someone has to think before they take the caps off and look at the big giant, our 290 stickers, so right, there's no oxygen, but what I'm talking about is is when you're, when you're all done and you're welding. You have to pinch off the the process stubs that you've had your service gauges on and then you have to braise them shut. You have to cut off the service fittings and braise them shut according to the warranty manufacturers requirements, and that's what's shady. So if that pinch doesn't work or if you overheat, then you can have a fire. So that's where okay, Joel so yeah you leave the system ports on I've, done it a lot where I did it, but I'm starting to wander just because of my employees and me worrying about them getting hurt so Alexander. What tool are you talking about? Are you talking about that Vulcan lockring chingus? That does that I have a pinch off tool. Okay, yeah! I have a pinch off.
Do I have the vise grip style pinch off tool, so I just pinch it off and then cut it and then weld it. But it's still shady because that pinch is what's holding back the our 290, so is there before I close this out, you guys have any more questions I'll give it another few minutes to see some of the questions come through. Okay, orange popsicle, that's an interesting name but uh. Well, you have to add service ports every time you work on the system.
So, basically, when you work on the system, you have to use a pinch off tool. Braze on a port then open up the pinch, and then you work on it and then, when you're done fixing it you pinch it off, you cut the service ports off and you weld them shut, and the manufacturer wants you to do that Dean. What are the correct operating pressures for our 290? Let's not talk about pressures and let's talk about temperatures. Okay, let's not worry about what your pressures are supposed to be.
If you understand what the template that what the refrigerant temperature should be, that's where we should go so what you need to do is you need to look at the manufacturers requirements and you need to you actually look at the manufacturers specs and you need to look And see what the evaporator coil TD is, and then you need to know what the condenser coil TD is typically and we're talking about saturation temperatures of your refrigerant. Okay, I'm going to give you some rules of thumb. This is something I kind of talked about in the podcast, with Brian or but some rules of thumb are on your evaporator on reaching coolers you're, typically going to be in the 20 to 25 degree, vaporators TD range and on the condensers you're, typically going to be In the 25 to 30 degree range, so your liquid saturation temperature is typically going to be 25 to 30 degrees above ambient, and your vapor saturation temperature is typically going to be 20 to 25 degrees under the box. Temp, okay.
So it's not so much what I say. The pressure should be because the pressures are variable dependent on the load in the box. If you have a high box load, your suction pressure is going to be higher. If you have a high, you know outdoor air load or ambient temperature around the condenser, your head pressures gon na be higher or lower.
So when you're talking about refrigeration, I mean don't get me wrong. I do talk in pressures, but when someone asked me what the pressure should be, it's it's important for you to understand the relationship between the saturation temperature and either the Box temper, the ambient temperature. That's the best way to look at it. Jonah you're asking me what evacuation rig I use if you're talking about for vacuuming the system down, I use a JB pump and I have some happy on hoses. I've been thinking about that whole true-blue set up just having justified the cost yet, but I imagine that I will go to that. True-Blue set up from a key tool because anything that Jim bergman is behind has pretty much become gold. So I mean that's he's the one that got me thinking about my vacuum setup and got me involved in the a peon stuff with his videos in the past. That's what got me into the appian stuff and then now he's on the true-blue kick.
So you know eventually, when it comes time I'll probably be jumping that over that way, Isaiah I don't know if you were asking me, but you keep asking what age I was when I got into refrigeration Isaiah. I started working for my dad when I was a little kid in junior high school I mean shoot. I can't even go back as far back to elementary school working with him. You know just on the weekends and different things and but I officially started working in this trade and for my dad in 2001, so I think I'm pushing 15 plus years now, but basically I grew up in the trade.
So I now run the company, I'm co-owner with my dad and we run it together. He doesn't work anymore. He works in the office and helps me an administrative level and then I work in the field and we have a couple employees that work for us. So Isaiah, as far as the field peace meter versus the Fluke to each their own men, I have a fluke in my troubleshooting bag and I have a field piece in my everyday carry bag.
If you watch my tool bag review, I carry them both. I like them both as far as quality goes, I mean I'm sure you'll get people on here saying you know which one's better, but I just say to each their own man. Whatever works for you. You know.
I definitely think that you shouldn't be skimpy and buy the cheapest meter out there, but you also don't need to buy the $ 1,200 meter unless that, unless you're doing really technical work. So I like them both currently the reason why I use the field peace meter that I use is because of all the options that it has in there. I have the totally loaded, SC 66, maybe watch my tool bag. Video says what I have but um.
I use that fully loaded meter yeah, I think it's the SC 6 60, or something whichever the the top fully loaded is one clamp meter. That's what I have and I like it just because of all the features it has. I really like it because it has the phase rotation feature in it and when I'm doing startups, it's really great to be able to jump on there and say this is line one. This is lying. This is line three. So I really like that about the meter that I carry. So that's a really good one, I'm just going to click on this common thing, real, quick live-chat! I see all these comments. Um yeah, I are Carlos, I'm actually close to feel peace because I'm in Riverside, so I actually go by there.
Often you know, because I work with them a little bit and I will you know if I ever have problems, I just take it down to them, but even if I don't have problems their warranties still great. So, let's see I'm just scrolling through some of these comments here to see what I missed. Let's see, what's missing here, sorry guys, I'm gon na get my fingers in there the way that I'm using my phone, it's right, there zigzag Industrial. You ask how much humidity should be in the walk-in cooler for food, not a beer or soda.
It really depends on what you're keeping in there. Okay, so typically, I wouldn't say worry about the humidity are. Are you having a problem with humidity? Because if you're, you know like, for instance, I've gotten a service call as a second opinion on a bakery walking, because they had too much humidity inside the box and when they would make the cakes they would put him inside there. And then the cakes would absorb all the moisture and then they wouldn't set okay.
Typically, when you size the box, you need to have it sized for the kind of product you're keeping in there. So, if you're keeping flowers in there, you typically wanted it to be more humid and if you're keeping you know pastries and cakes that they're they're setting in there, then you want them to be. You know less humid, so your humidity is controlled off of your temperature differential and your evaporator, your TD, typical general produce our general products. We run about a 10 degree TD and then you can adjust it all the way up to a 15 degree DTD, depending on what kind of product you're keeping inside that box so zigzag.
You said not beer or soda, so I'm assuming you're keeping general product in there. It really depends on what you're keeping in there to tell me what type of humidity you should be running inside there. Okay, the cardboard boxes are sweating, so more than less so you obviously have too much humidity in the box, and you know it's possible that your equipments oversize and it doesn't have enough run time to bring the box temp. You know to bring the humidity down.
There's all kinds of different factors in there, so what I would say that you should do is do a load. Calculation on your box first do a load calculation and then find out what the required BTUs are for your box. I could probably help you with that. If you can't figure it out on your own, what I would need to do a load calculation is, I need to know the inside dimensions of the walk-in box, the height the width and the depth, how many doors, how many, how many doors? What's around the box, the ambient temperature around the box, so is there a ceiling, that's unconditioned above it as their ceilings that are unconditioned around it. If you give me all that information or you give it to your supply house, they can do a proper load calculation. You also need to know where they're condensing and it's going to be located, what kind of product they're keeping in the box how many people are coming in and out of the box on the daily basis. The ambient conditions, if I didn't say that around the condensing unit, when you have all that information, you can do a proper load calculation on the box and then we can find out exactly what the required BTUs are. And then we also evaluate what you're keeping in there and what you want the humidity to be, and then we can, you know, adjust accordingly.
For that there is computer software. You can use a lot of times, you can. You can download the heat craft engineering manual. So if you download the heat craft engineering manual, it will tell you how to do the load calculation by hand, which is actually a really smart thing to do.
Yes, exactly maybe at HVAC our videos at gmail.com and I'll, give you a full list of what I need so Zack used. I see that you said a United help of sizing the boxes. Yes, they do. I am NOT a very trusting person and I don't really trust.
I have trust issues, so I do my own load calculations, because when I install it, I don't like relying on other people to tell me that this is what it was supposed to be. So that's my own thing. You know, I just have trust issues, so I do it all myself and if, but like I said there is supply houses that can do it for you. You just need to make sure you give them all the information.
Okay, they need everything and they need to know down to every last detail because all of it matters and if you don't give them all the information, they might just guess on a few numbers and then it might throw things off. So when you're talking about humidity inside a box and you're having humidity issues, that's when it really really matters, because you don't want to go in there and put you know eight thousand dollars worth of equipment and find out that you over sized it or you under Sized it or you know if the same thing goes for any load calculations, so just want to be careful about who's. Doing your load. Calculations make sure that a reputable source, united refrigeration, like Zack had said, is a good company.
They do actually have engineers that do the load calculations for you so Jonah when I retrofit r12. What refrigerant do I use when I retrofit r12? Are you? Are you talking about an old r12 system, Jonah retrofitting it to a new gas? I'm gon na wait for your response, so I make sure I answer this correctly: okay, so r12, okay, first off you're talking in our 12 retrofit we've got some things to talk about here. I would HIGHLY highly suggest that you do a load calculation on the box. Okay, that you change the refrigeration lines, not only because of the oils and the refrigeration lines, but you're also going to a massive pressure difference inside those lines. R12. You know the head pressure. We ran about a hundred and fifty max on the head pressure. Any of the new gases you're going to go to are gon na run an excess of 450 psi on the head pressure, so be cautious.
Okay, so make sure you're doing this calculation prior to this conversion properly. But if I was to do an R 12 conversion, these days yeah, I would convert to our 404 a right now, that's the the only gas I'm not there's some new replacements for for for a, but I I'm a little leery about those quite yet. So me personally, I would go ahead and change over to our full for a but you're going to have to change the condensing unit and the evaporator at the same time and do a proper load calculation. So if you want to get away the easiest way, if the customer just wants to be the cheapest, then just change it over to 134a.
You don't even have to technically don't have to change the metering device. I would still suggest you change the metering device, but you can just change the condensing unit metering device and you can leave the same evaporator if the customer wants to go cheap. So that's converting from r12 to 134a, but here's the dilemma. We have with all these new gases coming out.
We don't know when the new administration changes, if they're gon na jump right on the bandwagon of banning all the refrigerants again. So you know we don't even know where we're gon na be five years from now. So you know when I was doing these conversions 10 years ago I was looking at the big picture saying instead of converting to 22 for our refrigeration systems, I was converting to 404 because I knew 22 is being phased out, but now they're talking about phasing out 404, so that's you know that kind of a dilemma. I know that there's Copeland, as is manufacturing condensing units for other gases.
Now that are replacing 404, so that may be an option, but I don't know which one's gon na stick there's so many different ones. So yeah Alexandre I've used MP 39 it back. In the day when I worked with a lot of r12, I was a 409a person that was my replacement. My drop-in replacement for r12 was 409 a but MP, 39 409 a hotshot phone for B.
Those are all ridiculously expensive gases now so you're, just better off going ahead and changing the system over replacing the condensing unit. You know changing it, either at 134a on the cheapest or going to 404 and doing a full conversion, but you know I mean I guess it's up to the customer. You know if I had a customer asking me to work on in our 12 system. I still have a drum of MP 39 in my garage and I still have a drum of 409a and I still have a drum of 408 a hell. I even stalled a Drama 502, so you know I could. I could still do a few things. I'm kind of leery and that's another thing too, when people were asking me about the drop-in replacements for r22, I'm kind of leery about buying these refrigerants, because I'm afraid I want to get stuck with them. I currently have a drum of our 427, a that was that I bought and I'm kind of stuck with it, and I didn't sell it all to the customer which I should have so yeah, I'm kind of leery about buying these replacement refrigerants.
If I don't know for sure I'm gon na be using them currently right now, in my truck I keep 404 a 134a r22 410, a NR 290. Those are the refrigerants I keep in my truck so CB CB. Let me see your comment here. It says how do you step an Ori Ord in the summer, or do you give it to wait for colder temps? Okay, that's a really good question.
So you're talking about a head pressure control valve right, is that right, CB CB, I'm gon na wait for your response. I make sure I answer this correctly: okay, okay, head pressure, control valve, it's kind of what I talked about in the beginning of this video. That's a low ambient control. Okay, I've got a couple videos where I talk about Headmaster's, that's an industry term.
You know, like a slang term, form: okay, there's a calculation that we do where we evaluate the condenser size. We measure it. We find out the volume of refrigerant liquid refrigerant that it can hold and, depending on our lowest temperature in the wintertime in our area, we charge that condenser with X number of refrigerant. Okay, we forgive me I'm going to look something up real quick while I'm talking to you guys, I mean so.
I can get this bulletin right, ninety dot, so the theory is that a headmaster needs to have enough refrigerant to properly flood the condenser in the wintertime. Okay, so we need to be able to flood the condenser while still keeping a liquid seal in our receiver to give a hundred percent liquid refrigerant down to the metering device. Okay, in order to flood our condenser. What we need to do is we need to calculate how much refrigerant that condenser could hold okay and for that we're gon na use a spoilin technical document and i'm looking up that tech uhmö document right now.
I believe it's spoilin 90.1 and let me verify this real, quick, I'm using my tablet. While I'm looking this up. 90. That's 90.
30. One is the name of the spoilin yeah, that's exactly it: okay, so 90, 30 one! So Google search swirlin 90-30. One! That's going to be the technical PDF on how to properly charge a system with a headmaster. Okay.
So to answer your question: cbcb is in the summertime. We do a repair, we do a leak repair and we don't want to have to come back in the winter time to properly charge that system right. So what in the field, if you can't do the 90 30 one what it says in there, I have a way that I follow. Okay and what I'm gon na do. Is I'm gon na put the maximum amount of refrigerant that I can put into that system safely? Okay, if I put the maximum amount of refrigerant in there, I'm assuming that the system was sized correctly and the receiver was sized correctly, then I know that that system is going to have enough refrigerant to make it through the wintertime. In order to do that, you need to know what the maximum amount of refrigerant your system can hold. Is okay, well, you're gon na have a receiver on it. So what do you do you pump down your receiver and you fill it up to 80 % of there are 3/4 of the receiver, sighs, okay, so, let's just say 80 % most of the time.
I think they say that you can't fill your receiver more than 90 % okay, so that way it doesn't explode basically, when the pressures get too high. So if we can somehow pump that receiver down and feel the liquid level in that receiver, we can verify that we have 3/4 of a receiver okay. So we go to our system. We pump it down.
We very carefully - and I'm gon na - say this very carefully, because I don't want anybody to hurt themselves, but you need to take a heat source while the receivers pump down and you need to do two to three passes up and down from the top of the Receiver to the bottom, then you need to take your fingers and start at the bottom of the receiver feeling the receiver with the back. Your fingers moving up the receiver slowly until you feel where it gets really hot. That point where it gets really hot is the liquid level, the receiver. You want to keep adding refrigerant to that system until that receiver is three-quarters of the way full okay.
That is my way of doing it. That is not necessarily the only way. I will not say that that is the absolute correct way to do it, but sometimes it's not practical to use what the spoilin 90-30 one says on how to charge a system with refrigerant. Okay.
So that's how I do it is by pumping the system down, checking the receiver level, filling it up to three-quarters of the receiver. While it's pumped down, then you know you have the maximum amount of refrigerant in that system, and assuming that that system was sized correctly, which 99 % of them are. You will now have enough gas to properly flood that condenser and feed liquid down to your expansion valve in the wintertime. So does that answer your question and, like I said, read the 90 30 1 and that will give you the other way.
I have some videos on my channel. You go back and it'll it'll go well. Yeah cbcb, ok, cool Carlos! You asked: how do you do a system performance test on a package unit? Ok, that's going to be a little bit difficult to answer over the the video right here. We have to break some things down, but if you there's going to be some former dip formulas you're going to use, let's see if I know the formula I don't know, the formula is off the top of my head. But what you're going to need to do is you're going to need to know the airflow of the system, the delivered airflow, not the you know what the manufacturer says. You need to know the actual delivered airflow coming out of the system. If you know the delivered airflow and you know the change in enthalpy across the evaporator coil, okay, then you're gon na take this is where I don't get super smart Zach. Are you still watching? Maybe you can come up? I think you know the formula.
Don't you someone in here will come up with the formula, but if you know that anthalie change across the evaporator cool - and you know the CFM's - you can feed those numbers into the formula and it'll give you the delivered capacity of the package unit. Okay, I can put it down in the show notes. Someone knows that they might put it into the comments but yeah there you go Zach so Zach says 4.5 times Delta H times CFM. Now that's important to say that you needed that needs to be delivered.
Cfm. Okay, not what the CFM should be on that system. Okay, so there's the tricky part is how do you get delivered? Cfm? Okay, it's a very difficult thing to measure because you, yes, there is tools to measure it. Yes, a vein would work.
Okay, but you know delivered. Cfm can be a tricky thing to measure okay, because it there's lots of things that come in to measuring the airflow inside the ducts. So you know, Jim Bergman has come up with a backwards way of doing that with I manifold product and with the measure quick products and it's a pretty darn good estimation and it works pretty well. Ok, you got to do a lot of you.
You got to input some formulas inside there. I believe he's using the mass flow formula and yeah. I think that's what I think. That's what I've heard right.
I think Zack knows that one too, but I think he uses the mass airflow formula and then he inputs that number to get his CFM. I think I don't know anyways, let's see any clever ideas to implement to make sure kitchen staff closes refrigerator doors. Welcome to restaurant refrigeration, that's one of the biggest problems that we have to deal with. Is people closing doors? Okay, the biggest thing is self closing doors.
If we're talking walk-in doors, they need spring-loaded hinges and they need spring-loaded door closures. Okay, those doors need to close on their own. Certain manufacturers of certain refrigerators don't allow you to have spring closing hinges like a delfield. Some of the Dell fields have a spring cartridge, but most of the Dell fields.
They don't have spring closed and hinges, so they have to make sure they close the doors. Okay, but a lot of reach-in manufacturers do have spring closing hinges, so the spring closing hinges need to be working correctly to to make sure that they actually closed. But that is a that is a serious restaurant. Refrigeration. Conundrum is closing doors. That's like that's why you need defrost in all of our refrigeration systems is because doors don't close, and that creates a problem. You know that, coupled with the fact that we're getting evaporator temperatures down to 20 degrees, sometimes 15 degrees, that's why we need D for us, then, on top of that, you got doors open. You know Michael si, you've asked if I've had a serious shock, I mean, what do you consider serious? Yes, I've been shocked.
I think the most I've ever been shocked by was 120 volt Lake and when I say that I mean true, 120 volt, you know gret, you know accidentally rubbing up against a 208 volt circuit, but I'm only getting one leg of it. So you're getting a true 120 volt to you. I don't want to know what being shocked by 480 is because you know 277 Alexander. No, I don't want to get zapped by that.
You know. There's no need to. You know that some of that stuff - you're not going to wake up from so you know, use your PPE use your proper electrical practices when you're working on these systems and try to avoid getting shocked, make sure things are shut off. Lockout tagout, you know, make sure that things are shut off before you work on them.
If possible. Sometimes you can't, but you know, use some pretty smart basic skills to make sure that you don't put yourself in a position to get electrocuted. So but yes, I've been electrocuted if you know a few times just but like I said just by an actual true 120 volt leg, I've never gotten both legs of 208, just one leg. So I'm looking through these comments right now, I'm not seeing anything DJ.
Sub err yeah. They have an Alexander, said to use a door chime on the doors they do have door alarm kits. Dick cyl makes kits that have door alarms, there's a couple different manufacturers that make door chime kits I'll, be honest with you most of the time. The door chime don't do nothing but annoy you if you're having to put a door chime on a door to shut it.
You obviously still have a problem and putting that china on the door isn't gon na help the cooks to shut the door managers want them to shut the doors, but the cooks, don't they don't care? So you know, if you're not fixing the practices in the the restaurant with them, not shutting the doors that you know, that's where they got ta fix it. Andrew yes, 480 you're, not going home so and that's why you got to use your proper safety practices. Man, you don't want to mess with that stuff. I was working on a for me.
I don't work on any industrial stuff. Okay, so 480 volt is the highest. I work on and I was working on a big unit today and yeah we're just being very careful to make sure you know we did have to do things live. You know I don't have beekeeper suits.
You know, of course I should use them, but I don't have them so you know just using proper practices when you're energized in Lodz you're staying away from you know the electrical compartment you're you're you're not reaching your hands into places. Again. You should always use your PPE, you should always usually beekeeper suits you should you know, use your arc flash protection, your your proper gloves. You should use all that stuff. Okay, but in you know, I wish I had that stuff, but I don't okay, so you just got a you just got to know how to be careful and stuff and - and it just depends on what you're working on yourself, I'm just looking at the questions here. Guys in a reach-in cooler with a hot gas loop from the factory will the performance of the Box change if the hot gas? That is a great question and I'm glad that you've thought about that before you removed it. Well, of course the performance is going to change. Okay, if you remove the hot gas loop you're weighing in the factory charge back in that system, and you don't have that extra volume of refrigerant line to store that extra refrigerant, so you're, technically gon na have an overcharge system.
If you remove the hot gas loop, have I done it? Yes, what have I done to solve that problem? You know just reduce the refrigerant charge by a little bit. Did I do engineering calculations to find out what the proper amount of refrigerant I removed in the system? Now I just you know, looked at the refrigerant operating vital signs and you know adjusted accordingly, but yeah. I've removed hot gas loops from systems on little reach-in, coolers and stuff. I've removed an input.
You know electric defrost different things like that, but yeah. That is a great thing to think about, because, if you're, removing that you're, removing volume of storage space for that refrigerant and then you're putting the factory charge back in so therefore you're overcharging, the system. So that's a great thing to think about. So andrew is plumbing code class fun.
Let's see if it had any luck with apart, like HB 24 series, an encounter for sure yeah, I really don't care for Jonah many of the Perl exsist UM's. I mean you know. They're kind of a pain in the butt they're, not my favorite, so alright guys I got to get out of here. I've ignored two phone calls on my phone.
While I've been having this chat so it's time for me to go, I will see you guys next time and, like I said, send me email send me comments all that good stuff, we'll go from there. Okay, we'll see you guys next time and thanks for coming in here.
I’ll use nu22 in an ac but never in a heat pump. I Always see high head issues in heat pumps.
Talking about the price of R-22, I remember when a drum cost $40 at the supply house. Of course that was 1995! I didn't know the cost went up to $800. That is beyond insane. I remember R-12 doing the same. It was being phased out when I was attending trade school in 94-95. Actually I found a drum of virgin R-12 recently at my place of employment that still has 17lbs in it.
Chris, your videos are very detailed and informative. I've posted comments recently as jlwhitt77. This is my new Google account related to my business. Sorry for any confusion. I sure wish I would have known you about 3 yrs ago. I took over all of the food service equipment in a Missouri prison. Refrigeration was new to me as I transitioned from residential HVAC. The walk in equipment gave me headaches. I had no idea what a PD solenoid was or it's function. I had a low temp box with dual evaps not defrosting. The paragon clock would call for defrost but unit would short cycle the entire defrost cycle. Can't remember how I found it but found that one of the PD solenoids wasn't closing. The system had one at each evaporator. I decided to replace both solenoids. I had no idea those solenoid valves we're directional. I somehow managed to install both of them backwards. What a learning experience. All of our equipment has a headmaster. The design and function of the headmaster still amazes me. I ran across a residential split system once that had a cut in cut out installed on the condenser high side controlling the condenser fan motor. I presume to build head pressure in low outdoor ambient temperature so it could still be used as an AC. I installed that condenser at a residence and removed the switch due to the fittings leaking and it no longer needed to run in cold temps. Anyway, thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!
Im wachin yust now
I will like if you make a video on a old york pakage unit on a heat you know the one that has sparking pilot
R407c hasn’t failed me yet and I’ve used it on high temp retrofits probably 35 times in commercial applications Service area Orleans??
i would like to work with you sir
what range of temperatures are you looking on a freezers?
I am using r422d for refrigeration don't do ac
"Hello…is there anybody in there? Just nod if you can hear me…. Is there anyone home?"
Brother you've got nothing to apologize for.
Thanks to you and B. Orr for all you produce and publish.
I was just trying to wrap my head around if a system needed more charge in winter or summer and why?
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I have used r422d for r22 replacement
I use hot shot 2 for r12 and have had no problems Are you in Kanata ?
I convert r 12 to 409a with no issues, not changing anything. Does anyone else do this?