This was a service call on walk in freezer that wasn't cooling. I found that the unit had a tripped head pressure controller and a condenser fan motor that was going bad, along with some loose electrical connections and a damaged contactor because of the loose connections.
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So today we have a service call on a walk-in freezer that is not working. It is currently probably in the high 30s in here right now, evaporator fan motors are running. There is no ice on the coil, so at this point it's time to get up onto the roof and see what's going on so as we come up onto the roof walk over to the refrigeration equipment right here. One of these is a freezer.
This one is r22 refrigerant, so it's not this one, please right here! Condenser is a little dirty and it's unit is not running at all, so we will gauge up, but first we're going to start at the electrical section. So we'll open up the electrical section here. Let see what we come across turn up with that at contact. Your looks like there's a burn, come out of that time, clock or something something's going on here, obviously one ninety two from one to two, two to three 196: 196 from 1 to 3: nothing going out! You just check our time, clock gon na be careful.
This thing doesn't short more on you, so we'll go from one to end 196, that's good, okay and then from 3 to n. That's our heater circuit. We should have 0, that's good and then from 4 to end is 195. That's our refrigeration circuit! So the defrost clock is sending power where it's supposed to be something's going on down.
Here I don't like that connection. The last part it looks like I might be working so I'm gon na have to dig in here a little bit more because I know how this unit works. I went ahead and pulled the cover off and will spin these condenser fan motors real, quick okay. So we have a bad convinced fan motor this one's been in really slow.
I bet you anything, that's bad and let's go and hit the high pressure switch, so it was off on high pressure, but that right side fan motors going that we're going to watch this operate for a minute and then we will look into that. Condenser fan motor. I think the electrical issue is another thing, well, obviously fix it, but so this looks like it was off on high pressure again, I have not put my service gauges on it, yet that's something I want to go get right now will do for sure. It looks like we're gon na have to change their fan motor and what made me think that family was bad was when I spun the left, one hit spun freely and the right one stopped really quick.
It's just something you get used, you know and, for instance, we could turn this off. Real, quick and you'll probably see it. The right one will stop before the left, one more than likely, and you see how it just kind of came to a stop where the left one is rolling, nice and slow, the right one. You spent it again.
It's just gon na stop like it just stops. So it's just one of those things you tend to notice when a fan motor is going bad. I don't know if this experiments gon na work or not a trial. If you guys watching I've shut off the unit, I verified that there's no power and a lot of times when you see a terminal like this, it's because of a loose connection. So if I try to torque on that and see if it turns - and it does - I turned it quite a bit the other ones - I'm not getting a turnout of not not nearly yeah, so I'm barely getting anything with that and I'd expect you're, not always gon Na see it when it's already burnt, it's already charred really bad and a lot of times. You can't turn them, but this one right here how to lose connection and it's been so loose for so long. It's been arcing arcing causes there you know is a heat. Is a symptom of that and basically it's been, you know sparking an arcing inside there and it's starting to fill up the contact there, so we're gon na have to replace that contactor.
If this was a big giant fancy Siemens controller, you can replace the lugs, but not on something. That's changing just a little Mars contactor. So we're definitely gon na replace that, no matter what we're, probably gon na go ahead and replace that before we go any further because that can cause damage. Another thing is right here on this guy right here: I'm seeing some heat damage too.
So, let's try to tighten that oh yeah nice. Look at that. I got a nice good turnout of it. So that's another thing: loose connections, big-time big-time big-time, the other ones, aren't turning.
So when you guys see discolored wires, if you can catch them early. A lot of times it's just loose connections, so you see on the bottom how that bottom connector is kind of discolored, and it's because this screw was loose same thing. This screw right here. This love was loose so, but this one has already done damage to the contactor, so we're going to replace it, this one's fine there's nothing wrong with it.
So I went and picked up a new condenser fan motor and a blade went ahead and replace not everything's. Looking good where it should be, I'm about to final service to check out the unit. I also went ahead and replace the compressor contactor put a new one in there everything's looking good, so we're gon na finish, troubleshooting. Note that we're looking pretty good now.
You know how to clear sight: glass, refrigerant pressures were right about what they should be. The biggest thing is the clear sight glass. The box is under a heavy load right now, because it's nice and warm in there. I went ahead and did a quick cleaning on the condenser, we're gon na schedule to come back and do a full cleaning because they got a bunch of condensers.
They got lots of dirt and grease on them. I straighten up the fins as best as possible. Nothing too crazy. You can only do units, but the condensers not clean inside.
I can actually see through it. There was just a nice layer of lint on the top of this, so I just use my big brush. That's sticking out of the bucket gave it a good brush down and then just straighten out the fins real, quick as best as possible, and that's it so we're gon na go down. I'm just going to look at the evaporator, make sure it's nice and cold in there and that's pretty much it we're going to tell them to keep an eye on it. .
You’re the best , thank you for sharing
Nice work bro 🧊💯 transferred over from residential/light commercial to low temp dept. at work we have quite afew walk in coolers/freezers as well as reach ins and open display coolers as well. Thus leading me to want to break the ice more on freezers etc. SUBSCRIBED 💪🏽👍🏽🛠
Great video. Thanks for sharing knowledge.
Nice work! Service area Nepean??
Brother please explain control wiring with eliwell digital thermostat please
Thanks in million.
Hello would you still half to work on a system rain or shine or would not work on a system that day because it’s all electrical and rain and electricity don’t shine ?
Thanks all I can say great class!
Only 2 reasons for electric circuit to melt something… shorted or loose connections.
Last week, Chilis location in liverpool NY.
I had both motors bad and blades were spinning g within the hub.
I had 1 fan motor and 1 blade on my truck.
It was 8pm and about 72°f ambient.
I just removed the bad motors and blades.
Cold zone condensor fan motors require a run cap mounted on them/side.
Blades are case ROTATION.
Meier supply in Syracuse hooked me up Monday morning
Nice Video.
Personally I can't stand those crimp on connectors. Even if you are going to a steel mating surface they introduce resistance. I helped someone I knew with a set of steam tables at a restaurant and the electricians used a finely stranded wire to the connection from the main power input box to the steam stable controller and used the crimp connectors. One leg failed on multiple tables and they made the cable so short that you couldn't fix it without replacing the section of cable. Instead of using crimp connectors I got some 1/4 inch copper and cut short pieces and crimped that down on the cable to make a solid connection then drilled a hole and used that to attach to the temp controller. Never had another issue with them after that. It's a lot more work doing it that way but if you are running a lot of power through a connection it may be the difference between having an issue or not.
Also have to be careful using stranded wire in some of the lug style connectors, some of them will cut through the stranded wire but be fine with a solid wire. On those you can also do the same trick of just crimping on a piece of copper tubing and then slipping that into the lug so you don't damage the strands, otherwise they are supposed to be soldered to make a solid piece to crank down on.
Well hell, we all have a screw or two loose in this line of work, right? LOL!! Good video and good finds.
That fan blade not moving freely can affect the system along with connections, checking everything prior to troubleshooting is the key.
I have a question couldn’t you add a capacitor to the fan and that would’ve solved the problem with motor fan abd the contactor was still functioning could you have tightened wire and left old contactor
I have one walk in freezer,ges is 404a 35 psi,temperature set point -5 but -5 cannot reach,waht i can do now pls?
Cool
hi chris
what is that on the side of the contactor thats connected to the other contactor
Beer can cold strategy with the ole sight glass is clear method eh
Whoever repaired that unit previously should be kicked out of the industry. Thanks to videos like this, I now follow every single repairman that comes into this house and I watch everything they do with an eagle-eye. If they don't like it, tough. I'm the customer, and I'm gonna make damn sure I'm getting my money's worth. Sucks to live in a world where you can't trust anyone to do their goddamn job anymore. It's almost like some of these guys want to get fired. Last time I had a repairman in my house, I caught him taking pictures of my computer. You simply cannot make this shit up. I leave the guy for 30 seconds and he starts taking pictures of the inside of my house.
Let's just say he left without his phone. Then his manager called, and I told him why I smashed the guy's phone. He no longer has a job now, either. Fuck with my castle and you'll get the horns straight up your ass. I don't care who you are. You could be the Prime fucking Minister and it would make no difference to me. That repairman was goddamn lucky that it's still illegal to hobble people lol. I'd give him a limp to remember me by. Rage issues and shitty repairmen are a bad combination in my book lol.
You guys think with the Condenser Fan Motor going out and the restricted condenser it caused more Resistance increasing amps on one of the 3 phase legs Making the weak point melt?
Excellent video!!!!
Great video great explanation great job man. Please don't sleep details Are you in Orleans ?
Question: on the high pressure switch, did you just tap it? Didn't know there was a manual overide. Great vid. Love the tips.Thanks Are you in Nepean ?
Do you work on cold room walk ins cascade systems r404a and r-23? I’m working on one now and believe the txv is restricted.
Great video brother thanks for taking the time to share! Service area Kanata??
Loose wires create fires
Last screws loosing, cool patron. Lazy lefty last guy? xD
Nice job brotha!!👍🏼🤙🏼✌🏼
Top notch…. good work! Are you in Ottawa ?
👍👍👍
EF grease = fire hazard
Why were the evap fans running if the box is warm and the condenser was off? May have a bad three wire klixon
Thank you so much for your videos.
Hi boss what is Normal operation superheat on a refrigerator ?
Today I found something similar, i had tighten a screw in a contactor with a burn wire but in a couple of days the wire was black again. I replaced the contactor, it seems the terminal was loosed no matter how tighten the screw was. Service area Ottawa??
What was the burn mark on the bottom of the defrost from?
I'm curious, When he was up on the roof looking at the units, he looked at the one unit and said it was an R22 unit so that was not it. Is R22 never used for freezers?
That right motor was wobbling. Or again optical illusion.
If a Connections is discolored, it doesn't every time means it is a loose connection. It could be also an over-tighten Screw especially on Aluminum Wires (compressed Cross-Section equals heat). In the Data-Sheet of the Contactors are Tourqe Values for the Screws. And btw your videos are nice.
Was the fan blade bent or damaged? Or did you change it as matter of good practice? Hey another good one!!
What kind of gauges do u have? And can one find the gauge case on it's own?
I appreciate your videos and helping me and others grow in HVAC along with teaching me to be more thorough
Dirty condenser ,loose connections =heat of CFMtr and reason it failed. Good job, CC/fan tighten all lugs. Service area Barrhaven??