Because he came out and he's like, hey you working on my beer walking he's like it was all iced up, so i just hosed it off with a hose. I told him i said: dude, don't ever use water on those units and he's like well. I've seen you guys, do it and i said yeah because we're technicians and we know how to turn the equipment off. He goes well, it's off right now.

I said no, it's not it's! In defrost i said you could have gotten electrocuted dude, it's no joking matter and he kind of laughs it off and i go. I don't think you realize the severity of your actions. I was like dude, you could have died like no joke, don't hose stuff off and he's like. Well, you know i thought, since i saw you guys, and i said you thought wrong dude i said i don't mean to be rude, but this is a serious matter.

Do not ever hose electrical devices off period and anyways, but you got to watch out man. These guys are nuts. This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. We were called out on a beer walk-in, that's uh iced up and i think they said a fan motor was bad, but it doesn't look like it.

So i'm thinking just an iced up beer walking now this is electric defrost um that coil over there has a little bit of frost, but it makes sense because this coil right here is right by the door. So eventually they left the door open, but we're gon na throw this guy into a defrost from on the roof and see what happens see if the electric defrost comes on and everything all right. So this is my control system, for the rack system c is in charlie. Is my beer walking? So that's this guy right here.

The time is somewhat accurate. It's 7 30! That's about right! We're gon na throw this guy into a defrost okay, and then we need to get the meter out and check to see if we're sending power downstairs, this unit uses a defrost clock and a defrost contactor. The defrost contactor won't pull in typically until see how this one has an auxiliary contact. This is the compressor contactor.

This is the defrost contactor. This auxiliary contact will not allow this one to pull in until this one disengages. So, let's go right here and we're going to check between one and in 202 volts. Okay, that's good! Now we're going to check between n and three: that's the defrost circuit 202 volts! Okay, that's good! Now! Let's confirm that we do not have refrigeration circuit in in four, and that is a problem.

We should not be simultaneously sending power through the four terminal and the number three terminal that is uh a bad defrost clock and it almost looks like it's like burnt in the top or something so we need to start by changing that defrost clock next question is: Is the contactor up here actually engaging the heaters or not so i'll, get my meter out and we'll check that scared, the crap out of me what the heck was that that was a what the heck that has nothing to do with me right now. That's the condenser fan motors for the entire rack, oh that was sketch, and that person saying making noise that hasn't been like that wow okay, so we might have a multiple thing going on here that scared the crap out of me um all right. So i turned that off so now we're gon na be going off on high pressure on everything else, so actually what we're gon na do. Let me turn off: b e: f uh, we'll leave the ice machine d can go off okay, so the only thing running is system c right now, because i don't know what's going on with that.

Condenser fan motor contactor over there um. So, let's test across this guy - okay, okay, go here to here and we're uh the contactors closed and the heaters are running, but it seems like the refrigeration circuit is still running too. Something is odd about that four to n yeah, that's weird! So we definitely have a clock issue, so we're going to start there all right. I turned off power and we pulled down the clock and we clearly have a burnt terminal in the back, so definitely a bad clock.

I don't know what that was, because it doesn't look like it's burnt there, but who knows anyways we're gon na proceed with replacing this clock and then we'll further troubleshoot. You got ta, really pay attention to what you're doing and don't just slap things in see that bracket from previous experience. I know that those brackets can be dangerous with these defrost clocks. If you look at them, the old clock is different than the new clock.

Look at the top of that one: okay and then look at the top of this clock. You see you can very easily mount this thing to that bracket and that top conductor right there would short to ground. So the old clock had these little stubs on here and they're, just pressed in there. Okay, it's these guys right here.

They pulled right out and i'm very carefully pressing them back in that or you have to use these standoff adapters that come in the defrost time clock itself. So you got to think bigger here and don't just assume that you just slap in a clock and call it a day because you're going to get a big surprise when you turn it on all right, we've got the new clock installed and very important. I put a jumper between one and two now the way that this one's wired up it has to have a jumper. You see, there's a jumper there between one and two.

So if we come over here to the schematic right here, what we're gon na see is that one you see now there doesn't have to be a jumper there if you wire it up a different way, but basically two is the common for the four contact and We need to power two up, so it can deliver power to four that way. If we have nothing going to two, then that is a dry contact and it's not gon na do a single thing. So, in our situation, the way that we have it wired up is main power line. One comes into one and it jumps over to two okay.

So that's why main power the red wire coming into one, and then we have a jumper from one to two and then now that powers, the number four contact, which is our refrigeration circuit. Okay. So with that being said, we should be able to turn this guy on and test the defrost process and then we'll have to figure out that later. So let's go ahead and hit one two three, please don't blow up.

There's one we've powered it! There's two! Okay! Now, power to the compressor and power to the defrost contact, we got ta wait for the compressor to pump down okay and then the defrost contactor will close so right now, if we go to the top of the defrost contactor, we have voltage and it just closed When i got my hands on there, so now we're applying voltage there, but we should not have voltage between n and four and we do not. Okay. So before we had power between n and four and n and three, and if we look at right, this right here in is your common right. That's line two okay and if we wanted to check on whether or not the defrost clock was working, if we checked between four and in that would tell us that this switch was closed.

But the way that this clock works, it's not possible for the number three switch to be closed and the number four switch to be closed. The logic doesn't allow it unless something happens and we had some sort of a short or a well. It looks like the contact shorted when it burnt up or something but um. So now we should be running in the defrost circuit.

Now we don't know if all of our defrost heaters are working. What we're gon na do. Look at that 33 amps. Okay! So there's a lot of defrost heaters in that guy um we're gon na, let that run for a while, i'm actually going to um increase the defrost time and while i'm troubleshooting that intermittent contact right there, that was opening and closing i'm gon na.

Let this guy run and defrost, but what we're actually gon na do is turn this off and we're gon na disconnect the x terminal and isolate it. So it can't time out a defrost. So i went ahead and isolated. The x wire, okay, the x wire works as a defrost termination switch and what it does is if the coil is wired in such that, if the coil evaporator coil any of them, gets too warm, it has a thermostat inside of it.

It's a clicks on relay and it sends power up and there's a logic module inside the timer itself and it will terminate defrost it'll, take it out of defrost. So if you're ever trying to let the electric defrost do the work, which is the way this one works, i disconnect the x terminal temporarily while i'm going to be working on other things and then i'll go check to see if it's making progress de-ice in the Evaporator, so we're going to let that run for a while and i'm going to go, get some gauges and we're gon na troubleshoot. Why that contactor was uh pulling in and out all right now um. I just had a discussion with one of the staff because he came out and he's like hey you working on my beer walking he's like it was all iced up, so i just hosed it off with the hose.

I told him i said: dude, don't ever use water on those units and he's like well, i've seen you guys, do it and i said yeah because we're technicians and we know how to turn the equipment off. He goes well, it's off right now. I said: no, it's not it's. In defrost, i said you could have gotten electrocuted dude, it's no joking matter and he kind of laughs it off and i go.

I don't think you realize the severity of your actions. I was like dude, you could have died like no joke, don't hose stuff off and he's like. Well, you know i thought, since i saw you guys, and i said you thought wrong dude i said i don't mean to be rude, but this is a serious matter. Do not ever hose electrical devices off period and anyways, but you got to watch out man.

These guys are nuts, so anyways this guy's still defrosting, okay, um, i'm hooking up the s. Man 480 manifold right now and uh really important number one. You always loosen the packing nut. Okay, so i got in here and i loosen the packing nut that allows it to actuate and it doesn't wear out the seals as fast.

I did the same thing on this one and i zeroed out my gauges. You always make sure that your gauges say zero. Before you apply pressure, you don't want to put them on and then open up the valves because then um they could be. You know not accurate right because sometimes, if you change elevation and different things like that, your gauges could uh, you know need to be zeroed out right to atmospheric pressure.

That's why you when it when it there's no anything hooked up. If it says two psi, you hit zero pressure; okay, so what we're gon na do is i'm gon na turn on just the walking cooler? So when i was up here doing this right, this was the contactor that was intermittently turning on and off. If i follow that down, that's motor one and two motor three is on its own contactor, so i believe it was that one we're gon na verify. That would be the first two motors right here: okay, and that would be basically these three walk-ins right here: walking cooler, walking, freezer beer walking, maybe the cook's drawers and then the other two would be the last motor, so we're gon na turn on just the uh Condenser fan motors right now, so that would be this guy right here all right and we're gon na turn on system a which is the walk-in cooler.

Now each one of these guys has a fan cycle switch right here. Okay fan cycle switch on each compressor, uh they're wired in series, so that if any one of those closes it turns on the fans. So we're going to uh dig into those right now and turn it on and see what pressures the condenser fan motor turns on. At so that guy just turned on so we come over here we're going to wait for our head pressure to go high enough for that fan cycle switch to turn it on turned on about 240 psi and it didn't turn on and off.

That's interesting, all right! The fact that it didn't um, you know, uh, pull in and out when it when it turned on, makes me think that the problem is not with the contactor. I'm thinking the problem is with one of those pressure switches. The question is which pressure switch, though? Is the difficult thing we don't know which one potentially is causing the problem, but we need to keep going down the line turning on compressors to see when it does the problem um, if it's going to do it again, is the question you know it just uh Had gone into defrost, so i turned it back on so this will give us another opportunity to test the pressure switch just for that compressor. Now it's important that i'm not turning on the uh, not turning on the other compressors, because i want to test each presser switch individually to try to figure out where the potential problem is so we're just waiting.

It's 216 psi and it just turned on no problems. So i don't know that the problems with this pressure switch. So let's go ahead and move on to the walk-in freezer compressor, which is the next one that would potentially be tied into these fan motors. All right now.

We're gon na try system b, which is the walk-in freezer. Let's come over here and look at when this guy kicks in again we're testing the fan, cycling control to see when it's going to turn it on turned on about the same 240 and it didn't chatter. Both running fine, that's very interesting, so huh where's. This problem at this is very interesting.

I mean: is it possible that it's with my system that i'm working on the beer walking, because that one should be part of this circuit too? Okay, we're gon na go ahead and take this guy out of defrost, it's all defrosted and everything's on come over here. It should be calling there we go. Let's see what happens if this guy's the culprit and it turned on just fine, that's interesting. So i guess it's possible.

I guess it's possible that, because this guy was energizing, refrigeration and defrost at the same time that maybe that has something to do with it. So i'm pumping it down again to see what it does it's interesting, because i can't duplicate it, but we know it was with these fan motors, which is going to be these fan cycle switches. So it's pumping down right now. Let's see what it turns off at so the compressor's already turned off, but we're looking to see what the fan cycle switch turns off at because the head pressure is going to continue to drop as the condenser fan motors run.

It's interesting so about 160 psi, which i'm a little intrigued by those cut in and cut out pressures, but it is what it is. So i can't duplicate this problem. What the heck is going on last one we're going to turn on the last compressor. I don't think it has anything to do with it, which is their little cooks, drawers right here.

Okay, so we got that guy turned off, i'm going to turn it off completely and then we're going to go to system d as in david. Let's turn that one on and see what condenser fan motor system d turns on now. I don't have gauges on that one, but if system d is part of the third one which i think it is shouldn't have anything to do with us now we have everything turned off. All three of these are turned off.

So if these fan motors turn on, we know that it's part of that circuit, oh yeah, so it's these fan motors, but it's not chattering. This is so interesting, so interesting, okay, so system d is right here. So what i'm doing here is when i turn them off. I put them into defrost, so they pump down and then i take them out of defrost that way: they're not just sitting there open.

So we're gon na wait for that guy to cycle off then we'll turn on the other ones and see what fam motors turn on when the head pressure comes up on those ones too, all right it just shut off and uh fan motors just shut off. So what we're gon na do is turn off system d and then we'll take it out of defrost i'll fix that in a minute now we're gon na turn on system e. As in edward. That's the next compressor.

Okay! So we're gon na wait to see what fan motors turn on with that one. So that's so we know that one, two, three four there's a small one back there. So far all turn on those two motors. So i'm trying to figure out which one turns on this motor um we're gon na find out as soon as this guy gets its pressures up now, i don't have gauges on it, we're just waiting for the motors to turn on okay, so that one turned on This motor okay and then this one is gon na turn on that motor too.

So these two compressors are gon na be on the third motor and then these ones are gon na be on those four compressors right there. So i can't duplicate this problem. It's i'm trying to figure out in my head. Is it possible? I guess it is possible that it had something to do with the defrost clock issue, because i was troubleshooting and it was technically engaging the refrigeration circuit.

So maybe something funky was going on there. But okay, well we're just gon na go ahead and proceed with uh checking the box out. I need to run downstairs and see if this guy is completely defrosted and then, if so, we need to hook up the defrost termination back into the circuit system. C is still in a defrost, the red light's on okay, what we're going to do is we're actually going to turn it off okay and i'm going to hook up the x terminal when i hook up the x terminal and turn it back on, it should terminate Defrost immediately all right we're hooked back up there.

We go. Look it just clicked. It just went into yellow because it clicked out a defrost, because the defrost termination wire was sending power up. So it's just the thermostat down in the coil and when it gets too warm, it sends power up and terminates the defrost, so we're gon na make sure all the clocks are set back correctly and i think we're good for now.

All right, i checked it's de-iced. All the way through all the heaters are working the temperature's dropping in here, so we're good to go for today and we'll just tell them to keep an eye on it. This guy is nice and good. I don't know what to tell them.

I mean it's possible that had something to do with uh this wire that i fixed a while back. You know that loose connection could have caused something with that, it's hard to say, but it's working, i couldn't duplicate the chattering contactor, so that's all! I can give them today. I got a bunch of calls lined up so it's time to go, we'll just tell them to keep an eye on it. So the defrost clock.

You know those happen um it. You know. Who knows it could have been the the electrical wire that you know messed up on the? What is it phase three coming in a while back? It could have been that who knows it could have just been a faulty defrost clock that clock looked um original oem and i believe this rack was installed in o4, so it's possible. They just had a bad clock.

You know it when you saw me testing the current on the heaters. I think it was like 22 amps or something like that. That is not being ran through the defrost clock. That's why they're using a defrost, contactor, uh they're only running you know.

Whatever current it takes to pull that contactor in through the clock, so has nothing to do with the current there um. You know i don't know why the clock failed, but we replaced it, but also we were very careful to make sure that we paid attention to the standoff brackets on the back of that clock to make sure that we weren't going to create a direct short when We tried to turn the clock on and trust me. I've done that too many times by not paying attention early in my career that i've learned those lessons. So you always want to pay attention and make sure that you're not creating a direct short when you mount those grassland defrost clocks on those standoff brackets.

Okay, now the chattering contacts, that's what actually concerned me the most and i've been back to that restaurant several times. Working on other things and i've yet to be able to duplicate that problem, i don't think it had anything to do with the defrost clock failure. But i don't know it was weird that i couldn't duplicate it again, but i did my due diligence to you know to to try to find the problem, understanding how the system works with the fan cycle controls and how the fan cycle controls are actually all tied. In series together, so that way, if any one of those compressors goes above a certain head pressure, it turns on both of those condenser fan motors.

Now, there's three condenser fan motors on that rack uh, the other one condenser fan motor is controlled off of those. Last couple compressors, so um, you know it's just just try your best. That's the way that i go about it. Do everything that i can.

I could not duplicate the chattering contactor, but it did scare the crap out of me um, but you know, do my best and i could not believe that uh restaurant staff guy that was de-icing those coils by washing them off with water. What a dodo head! I just i had to talk with the management too, because he wasn't a manager he's just like it's hard to explain but he's just a dude there working in the beer, walk and he's in there all the time - and you know for him to think. Oh yeah, i'm just gon na go hose everything off, you know and it's like man. He doesn't even talk to the management.

The management had no idea. He was doing that. He just took it upon himself and it's like dude. You could have been electrocuted, you know, and he just his ignorance.

You know and just like. Well, you know i've seen you guys do it and it's like that's why it's so dangerous to let people see what you're doing, and i mean there's only so much. I can prevent i'm there working on the beer, walk and de-icing it with the hose right, not this time, but previously and uh. You know, so they seem to think that they can do the same thing as us, and it's like man, someone's gon na get hurt.

You know because most people that are not technicians that work on this equipment don't understand when the fans aren't running. That doesn't mean there's no power to it. It's just electric defrost, you know so the fans turn off the heaters turn on. So there's an invisible current going through those to their eyes.

You know and if they get it wet, there's potential they could have had a bad disaster on that. But just got to be careful. You know always be cautious about that stuff. So uh.

I really appreciate you guys making it to the end. You know as usual, if you guys have any interest in helping to support the channel the simplest way to help support the channel is watch the videos from beginning to end without skipping through anything, a couple. Other methods, if you're interested in purchasing any tools you can go to truetechtools.com, i have an offer code. Big picture.

One word: you'll get an eight percent discount on checkout. Now previously i used to have affiliate links set up with them. I don't do that anymore. So it's just my offer code.

If you want to help support the channel, all you got to do is use the offer code. Super simple, big picture. One word get an eight percent discount. I get a small commission from that.

Um there's other methods too. Uh paypal, youtube channel memberships, patreon, it's all on the show notes, there's links to all the different methods you can also, if you're interested go to my website hvacrvideos.com, we have merchandise, available hats, beanies, shirts, sweaters, all that good stuff soon to be stickers, not quite yet, But uh the stickers will be once i get around to it available on the website too got a bunch of them, so those will be coming shortly and uh yeah. That's it! Thank you! So very much. You got any feedback, any criticism, anything leave it in the comments.

Send me an email, hvacr videos, gmail.com, okay, we'll catch you on the next one.