If you guys have this HVAC school app, you're going to find in the checklist exactly how to test your flame sensor. I am running a little low on time, so um, uh, I will show you this when we install our new flame sensor today. Um, but we'll walk through these steps. Here's some things to test and this is really important that we talk about this. It senses current through the flame to ground right? So if we have a poor ground, if we have a poor neutral terminal coming in, poor connection, or a neutral terminal rust or something on our ground wire connection, we don't have this cleanly grounded to our neutral to the same side that our Transformer is cleanly grounded to. Then current is not going to pass through and so you will pull this error code with the flame sensor when actually it's just a grounding issue on the furnace. so you can check between ground and your neutral leg coming in. So first connection point from Power neutral ground. here do we actually have a good connection? Okay, my unit's grounded. Well move on to other diagnosis areas. With that is my board actually sending the current. You can test that with microamps testing which we'll do that. Um, let's jump straight into. Uh, actually installing a plane sensor. So I have a flame sensor white Rogers has made a flame sensor. Um, that from Emerson and it's a universal premium flame sensor. It can go in so many different applications. They actually have a chart on the box. They have a chart in their app if you go to the white Rogers app that you can type in the part number of whatever flame sensor you're working on oil, boilers or cooking equipment or furnaces or pool heaters. you have that flame sensor type in the uh uh, the actual part number of that. You can see if it's a match here in the match descriptions. They will actually give you like color codes for what needs to be done. No change can be done on green or we need to bend it on the blue. So but let's go ahead, come on and join. So we have our flame rod and then we have our wire that comes with it. So these connection points would be the typical sizes you'll see. They also have a backup like a smaller spade and then a screw for securing it and then a shield for if you need to modify it. Bending it, Whatever you got to do, you can slide The Shield over that. Anybody here replace the flame sensor I Don't think any of you have done this. Okay, so let's go ahead and do it. I'm gonna power down and we're just going to walk through this so you can have this on your truck, check out the part number on the old one and match up to what needs to be done. So right in here we have our flame sensor. I'm gonna go ahead and unscrew the screw that's holding it in place. Pull that out. So this is what you'll do when you have to clean it right here and you can see it's a little bit dirty, right? It's not perfect. You can do a continuity test with your meter from end to end and that would let you know that it's not cracked or actually something damaged in there. So let's pull that out. So this is one that's bent and when it goes in and we have our screw in place, you see the angle. We actually need that exact angle with our our new Rod So that we're in the flame, we have to be in the flame, right? Um, so if you look on the flame sensor, you're going to have a part number right on the base of the flame sensor. So let me go ahead and match that part number up. This is a carrier piece of equipment Lh33ws by one and you don't have to do this every time. I'm just demonstrating using all of this. Uh, Z51. So it's right here in the blue. We're going to be bending it, which means it's probably going to be perfectly long. We're not going to actually need to cut it, the other color will be bending and cutting all right. So go ahead and lay the instructions out. You're going to take your flame sensor and position it right here on the graph that it shows right on the base of this line right here. and you the side with the screw, just push that down into the line. So this will be our reference point for our old and our new one right? So now we've lined up which Bend it's the 73 degree Bend that we're going to match it up to. So with that laying against the paper on the bend, then we can take our net our next flame sensor down here. This is our Emerson Universal flame sensor. Well almost had a screw in the wrong side that would have worked out fantastic. So as you can see when you lay it down like that our Spades are lined up when they're both pushed in like that so you can just confirm that. but that's why you do this right here and then we'll need to bend this to our 73. So to bend it, we just protect the sleeve like this. Now if if you are a little bit messy, you can put some gloves on so your fingers don't touch the flame sensing rod. Now only half of the people out there think that this matters and I'm not going to say where I am on this but Brian thinks that this matters and he's our boss. So we're going to put gloves on just to make sure we're not putting oils on the flame sensing rod, line that up and then bend that over. So let me put the shield on. And so the whole point that I would line this up is so I'd know my reference point on where to bend. so I can grab the pliers right at the point where the bin is going to be right and now I know I need to bend it straight down like this. So now I'm going to come over to a sharp surface and hold it in place and then bend it down. It's probably not enough, but that'll be more fun. You don't want to go perfect the first try, right? line it back up. We're gonna have to keep going. It was a 73, not a 35 degree. Bend Okay, so the shield is there to help you not damage the flame. Rod if you gouge it, um, you can create issues with it actually being able to read correctly. Where do we go? Third time's the charm. Much better if you actually hang it off and end like this. This is how they have it on their instructions. If I can actually come down a little bit lower and there's our lineup, we're almost perfect. Foreign. Go ahead, go ahead. no shame. So now I know that as I mount this, we're actually going to be positioned into our flame. so I can take and compare with this one. Now on here. you don't actually need to cut it. It barely hangs out longer than the old one and it's not long enough to actually hit the metal. which is why in the instructions for this model you don't actually have to cut it. But I'm going to show you how easy that is to do. You got this right here right? So before you squeeze down on like any heavy metal, might be a good idea for that piece that could come flying off that piece. Boom. Not easy. cool now. um, if need be. If this wire is damaged in any level, then you have a replacement wire that you can connect back down to the board. This wire happens to be in great shape. It is a training opportunity for you guys and for the rest of the world we'll leave that to the field instead of my most smart place possible. Sweet Boom! So now our flame sensing rod is right here. into the flame you can see I don't know how well you can actually see back there, but it is thinking right where the flame is going to be. okay. So uh, while I got you here sitting around centered around the flame? Rod Let's go ahead and show you how you would test the flame sensing rod. So I'm going to put it down here to my micro amps on the meter and this would let me know is my board actually sending the current through the rod? or is it is the rod actually doing its drop job? Do I have something else going on and so because it's such a small amount of current I can't use the magnetic field that you would use for larger current. Another nerd fact about this is that it's actually as it passes through the Flames to ground it, um, rectifies the flame to DC voltage a DC voltage pulse. That's why they also call it a flame rectifier. So that Ac voltage comes in and it actually pulses DC voltage and the board will read DC voltage and that's how it knows that it's actually turned on. So let me want to turn this on. We've got the breaker 15 amp up here. Boom. Foreign. Okay, so if we come back to our slide, How many voltage? How much voltage? um, or current? I'm sorry, how much current DC current does it say on the last picture one to ten depending on equipment, but you're typically seeing two to six. All right. So right now we have five DC volts. So typically between two and six and I'm literally making the circuit myself. It's a little bit easier with clamps on the end of this when you're testing it. Um, but you know I'm using meter leads. There you go. New brand new flame sensor works. It's doing its job Sweet! 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