This video is brought to you by Sporland Quality integrity and tradition. AC Not working. So I Walk up. condenser fan motors are running, but it's cold air, cold air blowing out of both of these.

and I Don't hear compressors running. That is typically the sign of a compressor lockout situation. Now, this is a carrier package unit. It's an older one, probably around 2003 2004.

and this one has compressor lockout boards. I Know that I'm very familiar with this equipment with the compressor lockout boards. If you cycle power, it resets lockout conditions. In this situation, the lockout boards.

They're looking for power to be interrupted to one of the safety switches: Low pressure, high pressure or freeze thermostat if either one of those opens or closes or whatever it's supposed to not do right. So low pressure if it opens, High pressure if it opens. Actually, if they all open free stat. if it opens.

Yeah, if any of those opens, then the lockout locks out that circus. So you can lock out first stage and you can lock out second stage. Or you can do just one or the other. So you never on these units want to come up and just shut off power.

because if you shut off power, you can inadvertently reset a lockout condition and then it's just a little bit harder to find. You know, figured out. Sometimes they don't duplicate themselves right away. So I Always observe the unit.

we're going to open up the electrical panel, confirm it's a lockout situation, then we're going to troubleshoot. From that point in the electrical section, the fan motors are running. The first thing I want to do is verify if we actually have three-phase power coming to the unit. Okay, so what we're going to do right here: Put this guy right here and I'm going to go through and we're going to verify: three-phase power.

Line one to Two 206. Line one to Three 207 Line two to Three 206. So we have three phase power coming in. That means all the fuses are good, disconnect is working, but for some reason we're not energizing the compressors.

Next thing is I Want to find out if we potentially are off on compressor lockout? Okay, so if you simply go from the X terminal on the low voltage wires to the common or C and you get 25 volts like I have right now, that's indicating that we are in a lockout situation. Now there's no way to know which one is locked out, but since both compressors, well, there is, but both compressors are not running, both compressors are locked out. You could get in here and get onto the individual lockout boards and figure it out, but they're both locked out. now.

That could have been high pressure, low pressure, or freeze step. So our next step is that we need to see if we have a call for cooling. which we know we do because condenser fan motors are running. but we'll just double check y1 25 volts Y2 6 volts.

So y1 and Y2 are calling for cooling and some reason we went off on lockout. Now the first thing I'm going to do before I put gauges on there is we're going to look at the belt in the blower assembly indoor blower motors running. it's running in the right direction and that belt looks pretty darn tight. so at this point we can go ahead and shut off the unit.

Okay, we'll shut it off and we can wait for the belt to slow down and we can test it to make sure that it's actually nice and tight. A loose belt can cause a freeze thermostat issue. Um, oh yeah. belt's nice and snug.

Pulley's in good shape. It is a A48 Ax48. that belt is in great shape I Think we might have tightened this recently or something. Okay, and we got a spare belt in there so that's good.

I'm gonna put this back on and we're gonna go ahead and gauge up on this guy and then turn it on now. since I turned it off when I turn it on, it's probably going to try to restart and hopefully duplicate whatever problem it was. Judging both condenser fan motors were running doesn't mean that one's not bad. The condenser is trash like bad.

Bad: It's possible that it's dirty. Let's go and look at the filters too before we energize. Make sure they're not completely plugged up. Those filters are bad.

Bad bad. they were installed 130 23. Those things are plugged. so I mean you could kind of still see light through them.

But yeah, that's not good. So for now, temporarily, I'm going to pull the filters out for troubleshooting purposes. I'm gonna have someone bring filters because I have someone available right now. Evaporator is not too too dirty.

Couple little chunkers on there. I'll get them off and then we'll put it back together and gauge up on it. Waiting for my tablet to power up. We need to profile the system on measure quick.

This particular carrier package unit. if you come over here, it's a 48. HJ David008 That 8 represents the tonnage. It's actually a seven and a half ton.

Um, for whatever reason on the carriers, whenever you see that number, it's usually a half ton or one ton lower than whatever the number is on most of the units. So this is a seven and a half ton unit. Um, so we'll get logged, uh, hooked up and everything. and then we'll turn it back on and check all the stats.

All right, we are probed up. I Kind of got my tablet set in the shade. Everything's on where it should be when I do liquid line temperature on this one because this one doesn't have liquid pressure ports. Make sure you get liquid line temp after the dryer so that way you can see if you have a plugged up dryer or anything anytime you're doing that, you typically want to get it after the dryer.

Actually, no. I screwed up. I'm getting liquid line temp before the dryer. see there.

I Go run my mouth and then find out that I was stating information incorrect. You want it over here. So that way it's after the dryer and you want it right here. So that way it's after the dryer.

There we go. Much better. So now we have liquid line temperature after the dryer and we're ready to power it up. I'm gonna have to get the panel and put it right here to kind of block things off.

Um, we can go ahead and turn on power. probably will turn on. We'll see. there it goes.

It's running all right. So we're in our system. I Have it set up for multi-stage So what we got to do is profile everything now. So we're going to go into profile.

We're going to change it to a package unit. We're going to say two circuits. That's correct, you're installed. We don't really need to worry about that, but I'll put 2003.

Um, let's see tonnage. So the unit itself: nominal ton Edge This is going to be one compressor. We're gonna do three and a half. They don't allow you to do seven and a half ton.

or eight and a half ton or whatever. Wait, What is it? It's uh, seven and a half ton. so they don't allow you to do that. So we're going to change it to the sear rating.

We're going to change the refrigerant for compressor one is going to be 407c, dismiss and then we're going to change it to fixed orifice metering device. Now, we're going to switch circuits. Circuit Two We're going to change it to a three and a half ton. So one's three and a half ones.

four. If I did that right, we're going to change it to fixed orifice. Done. So now let's see here.

Make sure that I did that right. Circuit two is set to three and a half ton and then switch it. Circuit One is set. Oh wait.

three and a half. I Think I'm missing it. up. Circuit two: Circuit One: Oh, we need to put one two four.

There you go. So that's how we'll do it. So compressor one is a four, Compressor two is a three and a half. So let's go ahead and change compressor two to R22 and we are profiled and ready to go.

Hit continue now. I Just need to put my probes on all right. We are on and running. it.

Just started up. First stage has a really low saturation temperature I Tend to notice that with 407c, especially with these units with fixed orifice metering devices that they start out low and then build up. But let's keep watching. Let's scroll over to Second Stage See what that one looks like? That one's looking a lot better.

Okay, so we're going to go back to first stage and we're just going to let the system operate for a little bit and see if it builds back up super. Heats High Sub cooling is not as high as I'd expect it. it's about where I think it should be. We're going to give it time to stabilize out.

Notice that saturation temperature on the first stage low side is starting to come up, so it takes a little while. I've noticed on these fixed orifice metering devices for it to build that pressure up. All right? Well, I'm going to let it. uh, keep running for a bit longer to see if we see anything funky.

All right. So this is interesting: First stage now that it's stabilized out saturation temperatures about 36 degrees on the low side 103 I Don't see any problems there. Super heat. Uh, the target is eight degrees.

We're just a hair under that. I Don't see a problem with that. Sub cooling of 19 doesn't seem bad Now that's normal to be high on this unit because it doesn't have a liquid line pressure port. So um, the pressure difference on these carrier package units typically from the condenser to the liquid pressure is typically about 35 PSI So someone out there can do the math.

This is discharge pressure 220. So if you subtract 35 from 220, more than likely that's going to be approximately your liquid pressure and then the saturation temp would drop a little bit. Which would mean we'd probably end up having a round if I had to guess 13 to 15 degrees sub cooling so it doesn't seem bad. Let's keep scrolling through: outer air temperature is about 77.

um. temperature split is a little low at 16, but to be fair, there's an economizer. The damper's still open like I'm not getting a true air temp. so um, let's keep going.

Second stage: let's go back. Second stage: Superheat Again, it's calling for about eight degrees. we're 5.8 That's not bad. Sub cooling's High though on Second Stage What's up with that I Wonder if we have a dirty condenser I bet you it's dirty because this is a double Road split condenser.

Hmm. Interesting, interesting scrolling through what kind of it's calling for about 20 degrees TD right now. Yeah, that's sub cooling on the second stage of 24 degrees. That's interesting.

That's a little high for my liking for sure. I'm thinking maybe we got a dirty condenser. All right. This guy's running a little high on the sub cooling on first and second stage.

so I suspect that we might have a dirty condenser. It doesn't look I mean the horrible shape of it, but it doesn't look super dirty. But I suspect on the inside it's plugged up. We have heat being pushed out of the condenser now so that's a good sign.

Yeah, we've had our first like little heat waves this last week it hit about 90 something degrees. I bet you anything with the dirty filters and I bet you that condenser is a little dirty that it would probably went off on high pressure because I don't see again. Remember first and second stage went off on lockout. Oh wait a minute.

Wait a minute. I noticed something. No, first and second stage didn't necessarily. No, they did.

They both went off on lockout. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, I had noticed something. I don't know why, but first and second stage are on the first Y1 terminal. Now why it's doing that? I don't know I don't necessarily want to correct it right now because I want to finish troubleshooting.

but I was thinking maybe that would affect the lockout. but no, not necessarily because power comes out of those and then goes into the lockout board. so each individual lockout board still controls each compressor. Therefore, what that's saying is that we would have had to break the low pressure on both compressors, the high pressure on both compressors, or the freeze stat on both compressors.

Um, in fact, there's only one freestyle. So now yeah, there's only one freestyle on this unit, which is also odd. You would think there would be two. Huh? I Never really thought about that before.

But anyway, so it has to be high pressure or low pressure. The odds of it both compressors being low pressure aren't very likely because the pressures look decent, right, but high pressure is very possible because they're not doing routine maintenance right now. I bet you we have a dirty condenser. All right.

I'm gonna get to uh, inspecting that normally I Can take this off by myself because I don't have anybody else here yet I have someone coming here. but because this one's all bent and folded up, it doesn't like it's creasing and everything. It doesn't want to lift off in one piece without folding in half. So I had to shove a cinder block under there.

It's not ideal, but it's on there. Um, that'll hold it up. It's actually not that dirty, but it's a little dirty so we're gonna go ahead and clean it. since we have it apart, we'll do a chemical clean on it, but it's not plugged, solid or anything.

It's pretty dirty, but I mean you can see through it I can see light through it, but if you look down in here I Mean there's a lot of lint and stuff. so we're definitely gonna go get all my chemicals and we're gonna get this guy washed out. I'm packed Condensed Floor cleaner. You don't put any water in, just a little bit of the cleaner and it doesn't take much because it's highly concentrated so that'll be more than enough cleaner to clean this unit.

All right, we're going to wet down the entire condenser You want to have a nice, like clean, wet surface, then apply the coil cleaner that we have tracks all the way down. nice and smooth. Thank you. All right.

now that it's wet, we're gonna apply coil cleaner. We're not going to go on the strongest concentration I'm gonna go on the B setting. Yeah, maybe we'll go on the Seas. Well, yeah, we'll start on the B and see what that does.

We're gonna apply cleaner from all angles. all right. I Cleaned it. Now It doesn't have to be like shiny silver because shiny silver means that you're eating the top layer of the coil off.

It just needs to be cleaned so water's flowing through inside and out. Last thing is, we're going to rinse all this stuff down because once it dries, it'll get sucked back up and get back in the condenser. Uh, it's also. you guys saw me rinsing from the front.

In a perfect world. When you have time to split this, you want to rinse to where you're going to drive the stuff out. Now of course you want to try to rinse from the inside out which I did for the inner coil, but the outer coil. You're not going to be able to split it enough so you just need to make sure you have it separated and then just push all the way through and make sure it goes down.

Oftentimes if the outer coil is really dirty, the stuff will get stuck on the inner coil. so you've got to like double check and make sure that everything's good. but I'm going to rinse the floor off real quick and then we're going to get this guy assembled and put back together and then troubleshoot it from there as best as possible. I Got the unit back and assembled, condenser put back together I Made sure to zip tie the two condensers together like you're supposed to um, drains put back on.

cleared out the VAP got a quick little rinse I Still got to put the condenser fan motor wires through so I'm going to pull those right now. get them hooked back up to the condenser family to relay up here. and then we're going to start this guy up as I'm hooking up the wires I Decided to test the capacitors just to see these are 10 microfarad capacitors 9.93 That one's good 9.4 That's right on the edge of being low. so we're going to change that capacitor the back one.

so let me go run down to my van and then we'll hook up the fan motors and hopefully start it up all right. I Hooked up the condenser fan motors I changed the back capacitor so we're good on that. They're all back and mounted in there as best as possible. um I Went ahead and fixed the staging so and I verified because I jumped it out R to y1 the first stage compressor comes on R to Y2 and I move that blue wire down.

Second stage compressor comes on so we know that's working I didn't want to do it earlier because I wanted to finish troubleshooting. Now we're going to let it run for a little bit, but next thing I want to do is get an amp current or a current on uh, both condenser fan motors 0.97 So if we can get on this other one, that's interesting 1.3 Why is it so high on one of them? That's interesting. So 1.3 and 0.97 Now let's come over here and see what the current rating is on these guys. Uh, this one it's hard to see I'm gonna have to get in here 1.42 so 1.42 those are both the same Motors is the allowed current and I believe we were under that right? 0.94 Yeah, we're under current I don't know why the one is so low.

The blade is looking kind of funky. maybe the blade is too low or something. but anyways, it's running I'm gonna let it stabilize out. then we're gonna pull it, measure quick and see what measure quick has to say.

Now that I clean the condenser my system is running. It has only been running for maybe five minutes so we need more time to let it stabilize out. Notice our saturation temperature on the low side is still below freezing. Like I said, it takes a while for it to build up.

It also could have something I bet you we might have a slightly restricted fixed orifice metering device too. but super Heats High We're going to give it a few minutes. Let's click over to the second stage. Second stage is looking really good already because it's still R22 something about 407c.

We struggle. but okay, I'm gonna let it stabilize out for a little bit longer. It's been running for a little bit, so now that we've cleaned the condenser and put everything back together, what's interesting is where now it's also warmed up outside and the load on the building is normal now. Okay, so let's scroll over.

Outdoor 75 Return Air 72 So it's not a huge load on the building, but we have something now. Okay, if we look at first stage, superheat is slightly high, but sub cooling did not change. It's slightly high 18 degrees. First stage is also the one that takes a while when you start up.

So my conclusion is that we have a restricted fixed orifice metering device on first stage. Slightly restricted. Okay, let's go over to Second Stage Second stage. Give it a second.

We've got two degrees superheat. Okay, and we have 26 degrees sub cooling. Notice that we're at the high end of the high pressure. All right.

So I believe. Same thing we have slightly high sub cooling I Think we're slightly restricted. Um, on that fixed orifice metering device. I Also think that this condenser, being that it's so damaged, is also causing elevated head pressure and in here and you can't really straighten it out anymore.

it's just not making good contact. So this unit is is really kind of dead. It's really time for them to replace it, but this particular customer likes quotes. So What? I'm going to quote is a condenser, an evaporator, evaporator drain pan because those things always break and the threads are never good and this one's kind of stripped out.

Um, we've already got a new compressor on second stage, but I'm also going to quote for them to go ahead and put R22 back in. That's that for I'm sorry first stage compressor because last summer we had nothing but problems with every unit. we put 407c in on these fixed orifice metering devices. So we're going to suggest going back to 22 on that first stage compressor.

new condenser, new evaporator, new dryers. all that good stuff. but I'm really going to push them for a new unit. this whole thing is falling apart.

There's not really much more I can do today. I Never found an exact reason for it to go off on compressor lockout other than just going through the unit saying condenser is in bad shape. condenser was a little dirty. you know, filters were plugged all that stuff.

so we got the unit up and running total current on the unit right now is about 26 amps each. Compressors supposed to run about 12 amps plus condenser fan motors. That doesn't seem too bad if we look at minimum circuit. Amps on this guy that's at full load typically is about 38 amps so we're under on that.

So I don't think there's really anything wrong with any components in this, right? And the only thing that can really cause a compressor lockout would be high pressure, low pressure, or a compressor not running. I mean we could have lost a phase. It's hard to say what exactly happened, but all that I know was the unit was dirty and it's just in horrible shape. So we're going to give them a quote: I'm going to really suggest they let me order a new unit for them because they really need to do that.

But you know I don't know what they're going to want to do. This is all in their hands. We'll let them make those decisions. I'm going to quote it.

so that way if they do approve my quote, you know I'm covering my butt, right? So condenser evaporator I mean I'd really like to quote that other compressor, but it's running, it's working so there's no need to. but we are definitely converting the first one back to R22 because 407c like I said just isn't working for me. Other than that, that's it. I'm going to put the unit back together, give the customer the keys, and uh, tell them to keep an eye on it.

This one is a pretty much done. I Mean you know I never found a reason for it to go off on lockout besides a bunch of little issues like it could have been high head pressure but I don't know. You know the more I think about it, it's like it was. it wasn't running that high of head pressure before.

like maybe a little bit, but not too bad. Um, definitely you know the capacitor that was going bad I mean it's a possibility that caused an issue. uh I don't think it went off on low pressure I Don't know though. You know, maybe the manager came up and changed the belt.

Maybe it had a bad belt? I Don't know. You think if the manager would have came up and changed the belt, they would have shut off the unit though and it would have reset a lockout. So this is a mystery. but you know when the customer isn't doing normal routine maintenance, these service calls are like this: You come out for a problem and you end up having to clean everything and then you get to diagnose the problem and this one.

I mean it was working once I reset the lockout condition so who knows. but realistically, they need to change this unit. It's trashed. I'm I'm getting quotes for a new unit right now and I'm hoping I can push them because we got to start getting some of these units changed out.

We have a lot and I mean a lot of R22 still out there. I have more R22 package units than I have 410A package units. Uh, you know and then we're already phasing out 410A now and you know, coming out with a new thing what in a year or two? Uh, they're gonna be coming out with another refrigerant replace 410 now. So it's like we got to get these R22 Legacy units you know changed out when it's time.

I mean I still have a lot of properly operating equipment too. So I guess you leave that running I mean you know it's You know we can find units now. it's a little bit easier, but still, you know, getting customers to approve changing? You know, doing a roof sweep here and changing six units like they're not going to do that, but we can nickel and dime them and get them one at a time. You know they'll They'll go for that every once in a while.

I should say, but you know can't always have like the magic eight ball that says this is your problem, You know you just gotta kind of. Follow Your Troubleshooting steps work your way through the problem in this situation I reset it and just went through and cleaned the unit up and everything else seemed to be working. Okay so I really appreciate you making it to the end of the video. Thank you so very much! If you haven't already, please check out my website Hvacrvideos.com We have merchandise available on there Soon Soon, not yet.

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