See look at. Even with Nitro flowing through there, we've still got a flame out. This video is brought to you by Sporlin. Quality, integrity and tradition.

All right. We have a large four-door bar cooler. It stops right there so they're saying that it's not working. Uh, the temp control says 49 degrees I do not see any ice on the evaporator coil up there that I can see but I gotta pull the cover off to really get behind it.

Fan motors are all working, compressors running I've got some service gauges on here. It's about 11 PSI on the low side and about 30 PSI on the high side. I'm sorry, uh, 130 PSI On the high side, this is R290 you can see because they have flammable things right here I Went ahead and opened up measure quick inputted the numbers into there because I don't have digital probes on there I Think it says my saturation for the low side is negative 11. my saturation for the high side if I remember right is 89 degrees.

It's currently 70 degrees in the bar. I mean this isn't horrible, but the low side saturation is a little too low. Should be a little bit higher than that for sure. This is a TXV system.

I don't see anything going in here. so what I did before I even logged this put my service ports on there was I ran the electronic leak detector I have the infocon gas mate I ran it over the condenser before I even put service gauges on there and over the evaporator and nothing came up as a big leak. but clearly we're low on our low side pressure right there. saturation temp of negative 11.

that's way too low. So I need to open up the evaporator coil. We're going to shut it off now in this unit. that's not the permanent shut off, but the temp control is the brain.

so the evaporative fan motor turns off. Now there's still a booster fan running that's just from the light circuit. I Gotta pull this keg out and we got to get behind that coil and we're going to look for a leak behind the coil. This is a glass.

Tinder Box Um, back in here, there is ice. There's a big old ball on the TXV so I bet you it's going to be a low charge. You see that blue corrosion looking stuff right there, contaminants and then storing things in here. So I need to get that ice melted.

I'm gonna go get my pump sprayer, get the ice melted really quick and once we get that melted I Bet you that we'll find a leak on the TXV These things are notorious for that. It's turning out to be more ice than I thought. it goes quite back behind that coil and up into there. It's hard to see, but there's a giant ball I Stuck my hand back there and it's kind of on the coil.

So this is why it's so important that you don't just add refrigerant to something because you really need to get in there and make sure that it's iced up now. I Put my gauges on there and it looked like it was low on charge, but you always. That's why I said I'm going to get into the evaporator and have a look at it. You always got to look at the evaporators and see if they're iced up if they're dirty restricted from what's going on.

I Still think we're going to be low on charge, but we'll find out more once. I get it all defrosted and then we'll evaluate the pressures. After that, things are escalating over here. I Ended up having to pull that off so I can get back behind there even more because it's just a giant chunk of ice back behind the coil.

so just a little bit out of time just using the pump sprayer. but it's just taking a little more time that I wanted it to. but it is what it is, right. got all the ice melted.

Now we're going to take the leaf detector and go around. the TXV doesn't pick anything up. Okay with a zero out. Sometimes you get false alarms with this gas mate.

Let's go over here. Oh, it's really setting off over there. Okay, so now let's see. let's Let It zero out.

Sometimes you got to pull it out of the box to let it zero out in a clean area and then let's check the coil. Now it may be just so saturated with refrigerant, nothing under that side of the coil. Now let's go over to this side. not really picking anything up in the coil, it's just all around the TXV These things are notorious for having leaking txds I Don't know if that's it.

We're gonna get some soap bubbles the Big Blue and we're gonna see if we can pinpoint this little one. when you're using Big Blue, it's a micro Elite detector. spray it as a steady stream. You get little bubbles like that.

Perfect. so it is leaking on the TXV Unfortunately, that is a very difficult TXV to weld on and we're not really going to be able to make a patch. We need to replace the TXV that is a uh, stainless steel TXV but it's copper coated on the inside so there's a different process of braising it. but filling it after the fact is really difficult and sometimes you can, but it honestly it's not something I really want to tackle so we're gonna have to order a new TXV for them.

All right? I Went ahead and ordered the part Next Day Air Early am delivery. We'll have it tomorrow. Looking at that I started thinking it looks like it's been welded on before and I looked up in the show notes or in the history work order history and yeah that is correct. this has been repaired emergency repair before and clearly it didn't hold and judging by the look of it it's it's never really gonna hold.

You need to change those things when they leak. So parts are ordered now. The other thing is I have to vent a charge because moving it around it started leaking more and it's leaking inside the box and you have all these electrical motors and it'll be sealed up. So I need to vent the charge out here.

That way, there's no stored refrigerant in there leaking out filling up the space. When you have all these electric motors running in here and stuff, this is the stuff you got to think about. This is flammable, non-oterized propane. You know you can't be having it leaking and you can't have an operating unit.

you know, with electrical parts and stuff running inside of it. the more I Think about it. I'm not going to leave this guy running with the fan motors either. So we're just slowly going to vent the charge carefully.

Nothing's Plugged In The Sky is not plugged in right here, just slowly venting it. We're going to get it to Atmosphere I'm going to stop when it saturates IT the area let it dissipate for a minute, then we'll start again. We're going to vent the whole charge I Am going to permanently disable the unit I'm going to hide the plug, tape it up so they can't plug it back in I've already ordered the part. early am delivery tomorrow Next Day Air So the delivery is more than the part, but they need it so this is what we got to do sometimes.

For me, it's about liability and I can't be liable for this box leaking while I'm gone and waiting for parts. We don't want something bad to happen because once insurance companies get involved, you know people's relationships and friendships and different things like that don't mean anything. It's the insurance companies trying to cover their butts if an explosion happened on this unit which is very very rare that it would ever happen. But if it did, it would be my insurance company against the manufacturers and the restaurants insurance company.

and I would have no say in anything. So I gotta do what? I feel to be the safest thing so that was for me to vent the charge. There is no refrigerant left in there and uh, permanently shut down the unit until we get the replacement parts. All right.

We are back today. Looks like I have the right part so I'm getting it assembled so I can verify everything's good and hopefully get that guy replaced. Shouldn't be too difficult, just a little tight in here, that's all. But they got all the kegs removed today so that's cool.

A little more room to work all right. One of the most important things when you're doing an R290 repair is what makes the job safe is to sweep the system with nitrogen. Okay, so what we're going to do is I've got nitrogen. We're flowing through the high side.

we're coming out the low side right there. We're just doing a sweep trying to get any refrigerant Vapor out of the system. So that way any of the flammable. Vapors So that way in theory we can braise without having any.

Flames Okay, so it's very important that you sweep with Nitro before you do any repairs. Now we're going to try to cut out components, but being that it's so tight in here, you're not going to cut that dryer out like so you're just going to have to unsweet it so you got to think about that stuff as you're doing it all right. It's going to be pretty tight in here. Got the new TXV itty bitty little one so we're good.

We got to get this guy cut out and then, uh, sweat back in, they're using 5 16. on this line right here. That sucks. Really tight working in here, so thank you.

So you know you just gotta do your best and think about the best way to do this. Paying attention to the fact that there's 5 16. My original thought was that I was going to extend the connection on the left, but I don't have 5 16 lying which I should probably get some, but supply houses don't have it so they'd have to special order it for me. Wouldn't be a bad idea because with all the R290 equipment, 5 16 Copper is becoming more and more popular Because they need smallest internal volume, they don't want any overages on that.

so there we go. That works now. I Could get this guy out. If you can score and break the copper, it'll give you a bigger opening because when you cut it all the way with the tubing cutter, it can, uh, pinch down the pipe quite a bit.

Cork tape: I Hate Corp tape. It's all sticky and difficult to get off. I Hate the stuff. Freaking Knuckles All bullying now.

Foreign. frustrating because okay, of course they put the screw on the other side so I can't get to it. What were they thinking here? You can't even undo it. What the heck? That's just dumb.

They straight put the screw for the sensing bulb on the other side. like what were they thinking and on top of that, it's a Torx or a flat head. You have to use one or the other and I only have a flat head in my bag I Got torques in the van but I don't I'm lazy I didn't want to have to cut it. but guys don't give me much choice again.

I have 10 Snips in the van but I'm just lazy foreign. it's a dang flat head or a Torx well that stinks on this. TXV The section that I cut out it was swaged to go up to 3 8. This is a 3 8 TXV this is 5 16.

It doesn't fit on there. Frustrating All right. I got a quarter inch 5 16 bushing at least I thought I did no I don't dang it all right. What I ended up doing was taking a piece of five uh, 3 8 copper because it's 3 8 on the TXV and slightly swaging it.

Starting the process of swaging just enough to where it slides over the 5 16s. We'll braise that right there. Then we got a nice extension piece and then we'll secure the sensing bulb and everything when we're done. So I'm going to get the TXV all wrapped up with the Viper wet rag heat blocking compound to protect it and we're going to get in here and braise this guy in now.

Brazen This is a little tricky because it's stainless steel. um, but it's copper coated on the inside so you have two choices. You either Silver solder it or you um, braze it with 15 which is the way it was designed to work was Brazen it with 15. So um I mean the easiest thing is going to be to do to braise it with silver solder.

but the problem with that is is my other technicians might not know that it's silver solder when they go to change the TXV again. So you got to think like everybody knows that these things are 15 percent. but man, I'd hate to do this with 15 like silver solder I Can guarantee won't have any problems. Tricky, tricky, decisions, decisions.

so we are going to Silver it fire going on all right. I've got the Viper wet rag, heat walking compound and I have the heat shield the Viper heat shield on here too protect it. So I'm going to do this one in 15 percent. Okay, there we go now.

Time for the 56 percent to shine. Okay, those are not the easiest braised joints because it's getting hot and it's tight. Okay, so that heat Shield's kicking ass not letting everything burn. Okay, okay, just gotta inspect my braised joints.

Cool that guy off and hope to be done. It's good to me. Looks good to me, looks good to me, looks good to me. Let's get that wet towel on those guys.

Let it cool off boy. I'm glad this isn't under warranty. When they're warranty, they're pain in the butt because they never pay enough money. It's annoying.

this is out of warranty so it's all time. and materials. clean off all the flex and inspect it one more time like it took to me. Again, that one looks good.

All right. let's move on. A fudge. This thing's dumb.

This strap is the dumbest strap ever like I'm screw that I Went ahead and grabbed a Parker spoil and strap one of these right here. These things work the other one's dumb. so I'm going to insulate it real quick. Boy, was that a pain in the butt.

But we're in. we're good. Time to start getting all the dryer, cleaning up all my messes and everything. My goodness.

I Really had to work to get that condensing unit out, cut and zip ties and everything and then got it twisted around. so I can kind of get to that dryer because it's in an awkward spot. We got to get that changed out without burning everything up. Also need to replace these processed stubs and get rid of the pinch points because those are potential leaks.

In the future, we're not going to be pinching this off and we're done. So turn the Nitro back on. see, look at. Even with Nitro flowing through there, we've still got a flame out.

So that's why it's so important that we're making sure foreign torch tips. A little dirty, but it's okay. it'll work. Remember that flame out can still happen so you're always watching making sure you're not getting your hands in a place where it could potentially hurt you.

Thank you! So we're going to cool this one off and then we can be flowing nitrogen through this one while we're dealing with the dryer as best as possible. It's not going to be perfect foreign. Well, here's what we're gonna have to do. We're gonna have to undo this bottom one first.

It's going to be tricky without burning everything down. Pull it up. try not to melt anything. You guys scream at me if you see something catch on fire.

Okay, let me know. It's kind of hard to see in this is Bozo heads, which is so difficult to change a dang dryer. You want to be careful when you're cooling it that you don't let it touch because it'll uh, solder itself to it. Oh my gosh, that was ridiculously stupid how hard that was.

Gosh darn it. That was insanely dumb again. I Can't stress enough how much easier that would have been if this was a spoil and dryer. Now why am I not going back in with a spoiling dryer because of how small the space is in here I Want to go back with the OEM stuff? Make it easier, make it any smarter.

It's pretty dumb if you ask me. That's how it rolls. cookie crumbles, bend it down, so that way it's got downward pressure going into that. Give it some twists and it should.

There we go. Okay, here we go. We're in now. We just need to do this top piece right here.

It's hot, probably shouldn't be touching it. Pretty darn hot on my hand. Okay, there we go. Now let's see how much of this I can do without melting everything.

It's going to be silly. There's times when there's heat blocking. compound is just too. The dryers can be too small.

You know there's not a whole lot you can do right here. I Want to make sure you don't get it into the grazing area and it's going to burn. no matter, it's inevitable. I Guess we're just reducing the amount of burning again.

I'm not going to fault this stuff for not protecting this. A lot of times people ask me why I don't protect things this small. It's because it's danger impossible. You know? extended connections on dryers should be a must all the time.

Short ones, especially on these little guys. Just plain stupid. So it's not going to be perfect. but we're using the Viper wet rag heat blocking compound.

Okay, how much stuff am I going to catch on fire? Doing this all right? I Gotta clean my torch. It's driving me nuts. Okay, we're still flowing with nitrogen Here we go. let's see what we can do here.

Stuff we can burn. Thank you. All right that was the tricky one. the bottom one.

I'm gonna have to I turn my torch up really high because we got to get in here and do this fast. Foreign ER but like I say all the time. I Really don't care if I waste sonnet. rather not have a leak and have a little too much solder dripping off the joint.

That guy looks good. All these guys look good. Let's go ahead and cool them off. So that was a pain in the butt, but we were flowing Nitro The whole time it was a pain in the butt to get in there.

we're gonna get all the wet rag and get it cooled off now and then. get the vacuum pump running on this guy. All right? Uh, it's been holding at about 160 PSI I pressurized it with nitrogen for I don't know 10 minutes or so. Something like that I could have done the tightness test, but yeah, it's no big deal.

I've just been watching it so we're ready to pull the evacuation on this guy. So I'm gonna put core removal tools on here and then we can pull the evacuation a little bit easier. So trying my best. uh, we're pulling evacuation into about 1500 microns at the moment.

the light to come on SO and it's dropping. um I Always as I'm pulling, my evacuation kind of actuate these because there's little pockets of air sometimes behind them so you want them to be kind of actuated. It'll help again. it's pulling down I Got r290 ready.

We need to change it to ounces. Yeah, so tear it. but obviously we'll do that once we get going. So just uh, time to wait.

Let it pull down. Such a small internal volume on this guy. Uh, using this large hose. it's kind of Overkill because you're really restricted by the lines and stuff.

But it's okay. it'll be done here in just a few minutes. All right, we're getting ready to charge this guy. Ball valved it off Now we got to make sure we purge right here to try to get any air out of the end of the line right here.

So I Just purged in here. Hopefully it dissipates some of that stuff, it's not going to be perfect and then we'll have to purge this once we get going. So this guy, we need to tear it out and I believe it was 4.4 ounces of refrigerant that is needed off the double check right now. Yeah, it's 4.41 ounces which is kind of ridiculous, but we're set to ounces.

We're gonna go ahead and dump it in right now. we're dumping it in through the high side and it's flowing through all right. Once we get to 4.4 we'll shut it off and then we'll open up the low side. So this is a Atlas scale from: JB Industries Ds-5000 works great I Believe you can pick this up from Truetech Tools I'm almost positive that's where I got it from Truetechtools.com Use my offer code big picture, get an eight percent discount on checkout and then I get a small commission.

One tip on the scale though. it comes with Schraders right here and right here. You need to take the schraders out. The scale acts wonky when you're trying to push through the schraders.

so we're getting there almost there. I'm going to turn it off for a sec, let it stabilize 4.2 a little bit more. 4.3 4.4 There we go. That's it.

now. What we're going to do is go ahead and do this right here. We're going to loosen this guy. Oops, Not like that.

There we go. right there. right there. Purge So now we can start it up and we'll be good to go.

We have enough refrigerant in there, so what I'm going to do is bulb out this off, Take this off and because we zeroed it with all this attached, that excess refrigerant that's going to be stuck in there after we shut it off is no big deal because we zeroed it out with everything in the hose full of refrigerant, put on the low side service port, get the condensing unit slid back in, get the evaporator put back together I Got to clean up some stuff and then we'll get this guy started up and hopefully be done with it before we get going. Too crazy. I'm going to do a leak search on all my Breeze joints again using the Inficon gas mate. The sky is a little bit sensitive to shaking and different things.

nothing. Let's go ahead and pop in here are so Bubbles and see it could just be leftover remnants of another thing. Let's try again. Yeah, I'll have to get in here and check I Don't think there's going to be a leak in there I Have to get my soap bubbles out I Got in here with soap bubbles.

There's nothing. It's all sprayed. there's no leaks in there. I'll double check the coil again, but I think it was just residual crap in here.

so I'm not too worried about it because we passed the pressure test and the evacuation test. Well, it's running. It's got refrigerant pressures. We have compression now I don't have it completely put together yet I Wanted to run it for a few minutes and then I'm going to do another Leak search just to be 100 sure.

you want to let the system build up, some pressure, run for a minute, let the fan motors move some stagnant air around, and then we'll do another Leak search. Like I said. All right, still kind of zeroing out. Let's go in here, have a look around this.

TXV Again, yeah, nothing, nothing. Yeah, these things. This thing is very like sensitive if you shake it now it's not going to do it for me. but I don't know.

This thing isn't my favorite leak detector. I Typically always verify with the bubbles with this one, but I'd really like to get my hands on the sensor for the Stratus the hydrocarbon sensor for the stratus. But all right, we're going to put this together and then watch it come down to 10. All right things are looking good.

I Inputted the numbers into measure quick. We're in about a 20 degree evaporator coil, about 110 degree condensing temp. that doesn't seem too bad. Um, box is at about 44 degrees.

so I'm gonna go ahead and take the gauges off and start assembling everything in here. I Think we're going to be good to go? All right. Unit is down to temperature, just about to satisfy. nice and cold in here.

They can start loading up their kegs, pull my light out of there and that's it. We're gonna give him the keys and tell him to keep an eye on it. I Know there's going to be a lot of feedback that I'm going to get in the comments about this video first and foremost I Want to go ahead and address a few topics that I know people are going to be triggered by. Okay, number one.

Danfoss TXV Danfoss Txv's according to Dan Foss literature do not need to be protected. They do not need to be cooled I Don't care what their literature says I'm still protecting it in this situation. Um, this particular TXV is a stainless steel TXV on the outside, but it's copper coated on the inside. They are notorious for leaking.

Okay, ridiculously bad. Don't know if it's the manufacturers doing shoddy jobs or if the copper coating is Just Junk I Personally, don't have very good experience and it doesn't matter what manufacturers installing these Txvs, there's always leaks and they're always at the same spot. It's right where the silphos is supposed to bond with the copper coating and they constantly leak. Okay, okay, I'm going to go ahead and start silver soldering all of them in from this point forward.

I've done it for a bit now and I've been talking to my guys about it and it's just going to be easier. Just flux it up with some stay still flux and put some 56 Silver solder on it and it's not going to be a problem. Okay, next thing is that you know, uh, using heat blocking compounds. They do work good oftentimes.

I'm a little bit hesitant to use them on very very small components because it can be really hard to get them in there enough. Now this situation: I was able to get them in there to a point that you know I still could make a proper braised joint, but you don't want the heat blocking compound the Viper wet rag to get near your braised joint so that way it potentially doesn't allow your braised joint to bond or to cure correctly. Okay, so flowing nitrogen on systems like this is an absolute must. This is an R290 system.

So in the very beginning I did a Nitro sweep on the system I swept the entire system. Okay, then you guys saw when I welded in the TXV and I came all the way, got done with that right and then I came over to the dryer and I was still getting flammable. Vapor coming out of the process stub as I was trying to unsweet it. Okay, and that is because there's just little pockets of vapor in there.

That's why it's so important when you're working on R290 systems to make sure that you are sweeping the system and still be prepared for a flame. Mount Okay, now you saw it was just a tiny bit of vapor left in the system. So inevitably, as the nitrogen was pushing through, it was kind of probably concentrating at all and pushing it right at that outlet. and it was igniting.

but then it slowly tapered off and went away right again. I Can't stress how important it is, right? R290 is unotorized, highly flammable propane refrigerant. You cannot smell it. Okay, so that is why it is so imperative that we sweep the system and always cover your butt when you're working on these things: Have fire extinguishers, have wet towels, make sure that there's nothing around you that could be, um, you know, causing issues that could ignite you.

Don't want to be brazing when you've got customers in it. You know in this the area. that's the last thing I need is for customers to be sitting at the bar top just watching me what I'm doing and then there's a flame out and you know you don't want that kind of stuff. So as a business owner I make it.

uh, you know my standard routine or whatever that you know if this needs to be repaired, it's not happening in front of the customers. it's just not. We don't need to make a scene. You know, if there was a small fire or something like that.

We don't need customers freaking out, so just don't be working on those systems in front of the customers. especially at a bar top like that. I Know the restaurant wants it done, but your company needs to stand up and say no, this is not going to work. You know we don't need to be creating bigger issues.

At least that's the way that I operate. right when I'm approaching projects like this. when I'm getting ready to do things I Always have that pessimist inside of me, right? that's constantly thinking if it can happen, it will happen Okay So always be prepared for the worst. Now here's the thing.

If you prepare for the worst and it doesn't happen, it's all good. But if you don't prepare for the worst and then the worst happens, you're going to be in a world of hurt. So always prepare for the worst. Always think hey, this region is going to catch on fire.

Hey, there is going to be a flame out where I'm working so have wet towels. Be ready for that right? Just be prepared. Follow the whole Cub Scout motto right? All that stuff. Just be prepared right.

Get your little Webelos thing going on right? Um Oh God that was like a blast from the past. Huh gee mini Christmas huh I just had like a lapse down memory lane of being a weeblos. that's really cool. Um, but yeah, just always be prepared.

Okay next thing when you are working on R290 systems: I Highly encourage you again. When I was out there the first day, I was using my brain right? I wasn't just being a lemming I wasn't just coming out and just being like ooh no gas ooh you know, whatever. just pay attention right in this situation. Um I Found a leak and the system was still kind of working but I can't in good conscience leave it operating because it's going to be leaking out that refrigerant.

And furthermore, I vented the remaining refrigerant out of the system because I got to thinking okay as I was moving it around doing The Leak search that leak got bigger I could physically or I could actually hear it as I was getting finishing up I could hear it leaking out at the TXV and it's like okay then I'm looking around inside that box with all the doors shut and all the little electric booster Motors Because the evaporator fan motor wasn't running but all the little booster Motors that were blowing the air into the uh, tap lines and everything and they had transfer fans and everything they were all still running. So what are the odds? it's it's very slim, but what are the odds that that leak is going to leak out and it's going to pressurize the box? And then there's going to be something bad that can happen because of a fan, motor or something like that, right? So always cover your butt. Think about that stuff. you got to look at the big picture.

Okay, now next thing. OEM Parts When it comes to these regions I Highly suggest that you always use OEM parts Do everything you can to cover your butt, right? I Know that a lot of OEM Parts They don't work very well and sometimes you can get aftermarket parts that work just as good or better. But again, like I kind of mentioned in the video in a situation like this. right? If something bad happened if there was a fire, an explosion, or something like that, right? Which is very, very unlikely.

But again, prepare for the worst kind of a thing, right? Let the pessimist in you out. Okay, if there was a fire, lawyers are going to get involved, right? Insurance companies are getting involved And what you don't know is that just because you have liability insurance, doesn't you know the insurance company is going to do everything to not pay out on that claim, right? So my insurance company is going to do everything to prove that it was someone else's fault and vice versa. On the other side, their insurance company is going to do everything they can to prove that it wasn't their fault. So that way they don't have to pay out on that claim.

so don't give them fuel. Don't add fuel to the fire. Go back in with OEM components and I'm talking. Even if you have to change a dang power cord on the box, put an Oem power cord.

Don't give the lawyers. Don't give the insurance companies any fuel to add to the fire, right? Always cover your butt. Use the OEM parts. That's just the sad truth of how this works.

You gotta stick with the OEM stuff just to cover your butt. Okay, um, again, be careful. be safe. If you work on these systems, it's really no big deal, right? You can see that I'm working on it.

There's a little flame out. It's I'm not being panicked. It's just yeah. You know it's just one of those things.

You're just being prepared again because I'm the type of person that thinks through this and I think of the situations and I can look at something and I could like just my brain starts going analyzing everything right? and I'm looking at it going Okay, so you know this potentially. so I'm ready when things happen, right? So just be careful. It really isn't a big deal. I know a lot of people are making it out to be a big deal.

It's not. it's just another refrigeration system. We just need to follow proper practices. and I'm talking just basic proper practices.

Okay, just make sure double triple check for leaks. You know in this situation in this video I was the electronic leak detector was still getting hit around the TXV after I was all done and I'm like I got in there with soap bubbles. there's no leaks. It passed a pressure test.

it passed a DK test with the vacuum like there's no leaks. but I still went and checked it three times. I turned the system on, moved some air around, then went back to the TXV to look again. Okay, so it's not, So there's probably just some refrigerant stuck somewhere inside their little pocket or something.

Who knows, right? I Really appreciate you making it to the end of the video. Thank you so very much! If you haven't already, Uh, check out the website Hvacrvideos.com We have merchandise available on the website. We have regular hats we have Dad hats we have flat bill hats, beanies, sweaters, t-shirts, all that good stuff. Great way to help support the channel.

I Try not to step on that merch too much to bring the prices up. I Try to keep it down for the most part. I've got about five dollars profit in every item just to try to kind of help myself out. So I'm not trying to make a million dollars off this or anything.

Okay, um, with a couple other ways to help support the channel if you're interested in doing so. Uh, one of the really cool ways is if you go to Truetechtools.com and check out their website. If you see any tools that I use on my videos, just search for those tools on their website. If you use my offer code.

Big Picture One word on checkout at Truetech Tools: Um, what happens is on almost all of the items on their website? There's a few things that doesn't apply to but almost all the items on their website. You get an eight percent discount at checkout if you use my offer code Again, Big Picture One word. and then when you get that discount I get a small commission and it's another great way to help support the channel. Okay, uh.

last but not least, if you're interested in supporting the channel via PayPal Patreon or YouTube channel memberships, there's a link in the show notes of this video. But guess what? the easiest way to support this channel I Say this all the time is literally just watch the videos from beginning to end. That's it. That's the easiest way.

Okay, I Really, really appreciate you. Thank you so very much. Leave me some feedback down in the comments and we will catch you on the next one.