This episode of the HVAC school podcast is made possible truly truly made possible by our sponsors, and today I want to talk to you about carrier carrier comm. They have some really interesting things going on in their ductless and vrf lines actually have an rtu rooftop air handler that connects to vrf systems, which is great for retrofits. I saw it at a HR. You can find out more by going to carrier comm.

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Comm also want to thank field peace field, peace, calm and specifically want to talk to you about their Mr 45 recovery machine. That recovery machine is one that we've used and a lot of applications. You're gon na find that it does great at recovering both liquid and vapor, but it's really best in class on the vapor side, which is what tends to take so long when you're trying to recover refrigerant from a system and more 45 is light. It has a digital display.

It's a really really nice quiet unit, you're gon na love it you can find the mr 45 at Tru tech tools, comm or at your local supply house, ask for the field peace. Mr 45. I also want to thank refrigeration technologies. They are a huge partner of HVAC school.

They make all sorts of great products. I would suggest that you look at their pan and drain spray to replace pan tabs on maintenance, as it works. Great easy to use does a great job of sanitizing and also reducing odors associated with drain pans and drain lines find all of the refrigeration technologies products by going to refridge tech, comm, and also you can find them by going to true tech tools, comm and using The offer code gets cooled at check out and now the guy who thinks thermodynamics makes for good dinner conversation and also wonders why he has no friends, Brian or alright. Thanks for joining us in the HVAC school podcast, the podcast that helps you remember some things that you might have forgotten along the way as well as reminds you of some things that you forgot to know in the first place.

I am your host Brian and today we're talking with my buddy Eric Mele. Eric Mele is a multi-faceted refrigeration and air conditioning technician down at South Florida. He works with my company. Thankfully he made the plunge over.

He has a great little youtube channel of his own called Eric M HVAC. If you want to check that out, Eric's gon na be talking about some equipment that he works on a lot. This is a new type of episode that we're gon na do and we call it the service or installation manual talk through so we're actually looking at a service and installation manual and Eric's just kind of walking through and talking about it, based on his own experience And so the idea here we're not gon na answer all the questions, we're not the OEM, but we want to kind of talk you through it. So that way you can get an introduction to pieces of equipment that are out there.

Some of the specific suggestions recommendations that manufacturers are making, as well as some of the parameters that you can set on this equipment, even if you never work on refrigeration. I think you may find this interesting just from an overview standpoint, but I will warn you. This is not a basics episode, so we're not covering basics. Here.

In this episode, we are covering a specific piece of equipment, so we're not going to do that all the time, but we are gon na do more of this sort of thing. So that way, we're touching all of the depth and breadth of the industry. So here we go Eric Mele talking about the heat craft, beacon all right on the podcast. Today we have Eric Mele thanks for coming back on Eric happy to be here, I'm happy when you're happy around kalos.

What they always say is when Eric ain't happy. Nobody really cares. Yes, pretty much yeah! So that's saying, didn't really work! Okay, so today we're gon na be talking about the heat, craft, beacon, refrigeration systems, our beacon series - and I know very little about this, but we've run into a lot of them recently with one of our customers and Eric has been working on them quite often. So we're gon na go through and talk about it.

So if you don't care out beacon to never fear, there's gon na be some things here. That will be helpful to you and really what it is. Is this a electronically controlled refrigeration system? So it's got a lot of the electronics in it, so in full disclosure. We are both looking at the installation and operation manual for this.

If you want to follow along, all you have to do is just type in beacon 2 into Google and the installation manual from heat craft will come right up. So if you are interested in that sort of thing, then there you have it so to start with, I will let you introduce the product from a high level. Tell us what it's about and what it's used for so you're, going from electromechanical control to more electronics. In the beacon to a lot of the stuff that you're, probably used to seeing, is integrated into the unit instead of having an accessory thermostat or a third party whatever mounted somewhere.

This is all going to be done through the circuit board in the evaporator and conveniently there's a little display window that shows the temperature also on the freezers and on the coolers. For that matter, all the defrost stuff is taken care of by this board as well. So you don't need a defrost timer you're using an electronic expansion valve, which they also use that to pump the system down so no more solenoid valve and they do have a interconnecting wire to the condenser. And you need 24 volts to the condenser.

You don't have to use all the stuff in the condenser, but you do need an interconnecting wire, which is a little bit different because you don't need that with electromechanical units got it so first thing because you mentioned it: has an electronic expansion valve. Do you know what type of valve that is? Is it one of these stepper valves or yeah? It's a stepper from Corel or Carol. I've heard people say it both ways. So, whichever way you're used to saying it CA, re L got it and that makes sense.

Stepper that way it can shut and can close completely. Of course, I guess the pulse valves could also close completely. I guess, but when you're ready to pump down it just shuts the TXE down, which is a conveniently placed so when we go out in that case I guess you're, not TXV. Sorry I said txp Evie, exactly okay, you're, eliminating one thing and doing two things with the electronic valve the sequence: the operation is not going to be too different from what you're used to seeing I kind of like it, especially after getting into it more.

The menu is very user, unlike some other electronic controllers, I've used in the past. You can really see easily all the settings. What everything's doing you can really easily change stuff, which I don't think anybody's really pulling covers off and change your stuff that shouldn't be so. It makes it nice for the technician so the first page, and this shows a picture of the board and all of the difference relays and selection buttons and all that which is actually really nice and right off the bat.

It kind of describes what everything is, and so, let's go through everything. That's on this board, just one at a time. It's on this list here, I'm not the obvious stuff. We don't need to say LED a display internal bloc, but what all reports to this thing? You're referencing a bunch of sensors, so you have your room sensor, which is gon na, usually be mounted up and behind the coil in the return Airstream defrost temperature sensor, which is the board, is gon na, be on the left side.

When you're looking at the standard side flow evaporator for lack of a better term, they have the other layouts too. But it's against the dividing wall between the coil and the board section. And then you have your suction temperature sensor and then you also have a suction temperature transducer. So that's what it's looking at! It's looking at all those sensors.

It also can get outdoor ambient input. I've seen a lot of units where it's not hooked up. I'm not 100 % expert on what that would change. If you did have it hooked up or didn't so, it's got a suction pressure transducer and what is it using that for just for faults or what all that, for so your suction temperature and your suction pressure are using it to maintain your superheat.

So you can really easily dial in the superheat on this control. If you're used to spinning expansion valves, this is so much easier. You just set it and forget it and it does what it's supposed to do as long as the sensor and transducer are operating properly, got it. Okay and we've, you have a couple.

Different selection, buttons on here looks like seven of them total yeah, the main one you're gon na be looking at some of them. Don't have that many functions. Some of them have a bunch, the ones that have a bunch of functions. The program review button, which is right below the LED display on the left right above the little potentiometer that you actually use to adjust your selections.

If you press that it's gon na display the first parameter we'll get to the list later and talk about that. But then it'll give the parameter abbreviation and then it'll give the current set point and you can adjust that set point with the potentiometer and then press ENTER to confirm the selection and then keep pressing program review to cycle through all the parameters and eventually back to The idle menu, which is just telling you the state of the unit, whether it's cooling off defrost, etc. So that's one you're gon na want to go through if you're working on it to the right of that is the monitor and that's another one that has a bunch of stuff. You can look at and you're monitoring in that menu.

You can't adjust anything, but you can look at valve position. You can look at what each sensor is reporting back to the board. It's really convenient. You can see your suction pressure from the evaporator.

I mean, of course, if you're having problems, you're gon na, want to confirm that at the evaporator with a gauge - and there is a test port built into the unit. But it's really nice to be able to see all that. You can see super heat in real time. You can see what the position of the electronic valve is.

The amount of time left until it's gon na go into defrost stuff like that, and then you have basically just a couple other buttons for testing and service. The test button to me is not really useful, we'll go through the features of what that does later. The fourth service button you can force the unit to pump down and then there's a forced defrost, which obviously forces it into defrost and then there's the reset time button which resets the internal clock to zero. And then you can offset your defrost from.

There makes sense and then you've got alarm contact. You've got a terminal block, which is where you make all of your connections down at the bottom other than that. That's pretty much it. So, let's move on to the next page, it talks quickly about how you're supposed to use 18 gauge wire for all the voltage connections which typical thermostat wire.

I imagine right yeah and they tell you to remove the suction line temperature sensor before brazing, which is a good idea because you'll destroy it, because it's literally right there by the connection I mean you'll - probably see it, don't leave it on there. They go over brazing power supply. Make sure your transformer is tapped for the right voltage that sort of thing, because it does have a circuit board. You'll have nuisance problems when you don't do that.

If your voltage starts to drop down when you're, not there, okay, so he does have on the 24 volt power supply it's 208 240, but you have to tap it. It comes factory to up to 240 and you should read tap into 208 if you're on 208. That's worth noting yep pretty standard right there, yeah pretty standard, but you'd, be shocked. I know I've worked in like commercial a long time I go to nine units out of ten and they're set for 240 and they have 208 incoming.

One thing to note here is like we discussed: the thermostat is already on board on the unit and the temperature differential is 2 degrees. You cannot change that. It does have a minimum on time and it's gon na over cool by one degree, from your setpoint and then when it gets a degree below your setpoint. It cuts out and then when it gets a degree back above it cuts back in and it has a minimum of 4 min at off time and a minimum of 2 minutes on time.

Even the setpoint is met. It does make mention of slave evaporators here yeah. So there's a way of interconnecting the master and slave evaporator yeah. You can run multiple evaporators off of one condenser, so you just wired them as shown.

If you look on the wiring, it's just one to the next to the next. Indeed, indeed, just simple schematic stuff, it's pretty straightforward on the wiring end of it, and it goes into exactly how to do that. They go into a smart controller which I have not dealt with. So I really can't get into any real experience with it.

You'll just have to read the manual and hopefully it'll get you what you need, and then these comes ship standard with head master valves. I've seen a lot of these condensers that I've seen have come with them. It could very well be an option, but while we're on the subject of condensers one thing to note on the condensers, there is a delay timer in each condenser and it has to be set to one minute at least one minute. If you have really long lines, you might have to go a little higher, but I've seen a lot that are set for a lot lower and you get nuisance.

C7 error codes. If it's not set to one minute, and also on the condensing units that have an adjustable low-pressure control in a freezer application, you have to set your pressure control for the refrigerant you're using because they come shipped for cooler application. So it's a condenser that can be used with either temperature. The pressure control is factory set to be a cooler, so you have to set it to cut out where you want it, which is too quickly towards zero, but you should definitely look at the compressor manufacturers guidelines.

There they'll tell you to cut it out at zero, but some copeland literature, i've seen says they don't typically want you to go all the way to zero. Yes, it does say here that they're shipped standard with head master valves, so that's a standard configuration that says scroll, compressor models have a 100 PSI head master valve. All other models have 180 psi head master valve. That's the pressure drop it's trying to maintain across the valve right.

So if you want to talk about charging them right now, heat craft says to block the condenser coil until a hundred and five degrees saturation is achieved and then check the sight glass. So you can be in conditions where you will have a not full sight glass and you will be up to charge. So the best way is just to get a piece of cardboard and block off the coil, and you have to block off a significant portion of these micro channel coils before you'll affect the head pressure. Typically, I've, like three-quarters of the coil before you'll, get it up high enough all right.

So now we're looking now at page number, seven anything there that you want to know. I kept going all the way to 11. We were just gon na get to parameters. We went over a lot of the stuff up there.

I think we're down to parameters all the other stuff is pretty basic, I'm a pretty basic guy, so that makes sense why I would have gotten stuck there. A lot of people might be new to refrigeration and not know where the dreaded rule of thumb stuff is so we'll go over the program, reviews and I'll give some rules of thumbs for where stuff is typically set, but it may not work for every application. So just keep that in mind. So when you go through that program button which is below the LED screen to the left, the first option is going to be your defrost type, which is air or electric.

You have to have electric defrost for a freezer, or at least hot gas. I have not seen hot gas and light commercial applications, so I can't speak to that. How you would set these up for that? The next selection is going to be your refrigerant type, which hopefully you know and you're gon na set it for that, and then your next setup is going to be your box temperature so for a cooler, typically you're gon na run that at 35 degrees and a Freezer you're gon na run at minus 10. I mean, if it's exclusively for ice cream and you're trying to keep it really hard for transport.

You might keep it at minus or lower than minus ten, but typically you'll be at 35 or at minus ten. All right, I'm with you so far, super heat, heat craft recommends five degrees for freezers and eight degrees, for everything else sounds about right. I concur. I concur with this statement.

The next setting is gon na, be whether your evaporator is a slaver master, so just set that accordingly, if it is a slave unit, you'll have a lot less of these options. You're only gon na have to set most of these at the master. There's also after that, setting there's demand defrost, which the board decides, whether to defrost or not, and when I have not used that setting. I don't know if it works great or not, because I haven't used it.

That is an interesting one, because that comes up with a lot of electronic controls and it seems like most refrigeration guys prefer not to use that, because it's algorithmic and you don't generally know exactly how it works. Is that in your experience, you just shy away from it because it's harder for you to kind of understand exactly what it's doing. I don't have the experience one more, the other two say it's good or bad, and since I know that typically doing set D, Frost's works. I kind of stick to that.

I don't really want to have the customer pay for me to learn how good demand defrost is, but if you have a situation where you can try, it out go for it right, and I guess the thinking would be. The demand. Defrost would probably be helpful if you needed abnormally large amounts of defrost and intermittent periods or, if you're really trying to optimize for power consumption. Those are the two circumstances.

I can imagine that that might be helpful yeah and it would all depend on how the algorithm works to and your particular application to where that would work best. But I have not used it yet. So maybe it works great because in display coolers and in these places, where there's a lot of door openings, maybe it works great for that, but I haven't tried it yet so maybe one day all right, I'm so excited all right. I want to take a quick pause here and talk you about in a vac nav and Navajo Bell.

Comm one thing I like about nabek they're, making some really nice hires they're, making hires from the trade. I don't know if you, my buddy James Bowman, he's come on quite a bit in the past. He works with nav at Kevin mayor. Also, a really great educator in the business they're hiring the right people and they make some really excellent products.

If you haven't looked at their flaring tools, they have a battery-powered cordless flaring tool. They have a small handheld ass wedging tool that you can fit in your bag very easily and you can use it to round out copper or, if you just have maybe a very small swedge. You want to make all the way up to really really nice switching tools, kind of more traditional type of switching tools; everything that you need from that sort of pipe fitting side of things. They also make some really nice tubing cutters with ball, bearings and grooves, so that you can easily cut off flares and they don't tend to walk on you like some of the lower quality tubing cutters.

So I would suggest that you take a look at all of their pipe fitting tools: swedging flaring tubing cutters, Reimers all really good quality stuff. I like it all one little note: if you use that little hand swedge, it does only open on one side and you'll, see what I'm saying when you get it. So it does require some technique. You're going to want to look up videos on how to do that, because otherwise you'll just stick it in there and split it what's great about it is how compact it is and it fits in your bag, and I think you're gon na like it once you Learn how to use it anyway, those are all available in a VAT global.com or you can also go to true tech tools.

Com, look up, Navin in the search bar and use the offer code get schooled for a great discount all right. Here we go back to Eric. That brings us to defrost number, which at a minimum, if you have a storage freezer, you need a minimum of four a day. I've never seen anybody recommend less than that, but I think these come factory set to five or six.

If I'm not mistaken, so it's gon na depend on your application. A lot of the display freezers, I see like just leave it at sixty frost. That seems to work pretty good. You can get away with a little bit less on a storage freezer with well-disciplined people that close the door.

So if you don't have a lot of control over that, you might have to go to more defrosts. Isn't it also a factor of how dry the environment is so like in a place like Florida, where we have a lot more possibility for high relative humidity that we would need possibly more defrosts yeah and is the box outside as it close to a back door? Does the door up into a non conditioned space? Does the door to the freezer open into a cooler there's a lot of factors, so it's really hard to say, but the minimum you're going to want to was for, like I said, and you might be able to get away without any defrost in a cooler in A storage cooler not a display in a display where there's lots of door opening, especially on this since its built-in you're, probably gon na, want to let it do some air defrost s, --, all right, I'm with you, so the defrost failsafe time will be the next Setting and that's gon na be where it will time out of defrost and no matter if it's reached to end temperature. It's gon na go back to cooling. Typically, around 30 to 40 minutes is where they come preset, depending on whether you're doing air or electric but a safe end.

Time is 45 minutes. If you really want to make sure you're getting a thorough defrost and then your end temperature, a safe end, temperature is 60 degrees. That would be the next setting we're getting to so the failsafe time once it hits that timer it's coming out of defrost, no matter what the end temperature will take it out of defrost early, provided it hits this temperature and, like I said, that's typically around sixty Degrees where you're gon na want to set it, maybe a little lower in a cooler because you're not really ever gon na get to sixty degrees, so, like 40, in a cooler all right. The next thing you get to is the defrost delay start time.

So how long it's gon na take from when you start the unit up to when it goes into the first defrost? So if you have multiple units, not multiple evaporators on one condenser but multiple units in the same cooler it'd be a good idea to stagger that to reset the clocks on everything - and I mean you - don't necessarily have to reset the clock you can see when it's Gon na go into the next one, just look at the defrost start in the monitor menu and you can see when it's gon na go to defrost and make sure they're staggered so you're not having both going to defrost at one time you're just saying it all. I've got nothing to say, then you get to your alarm high temperature and low temperature, which not really a huge deal to set those if you're, not using any outputs with customer that we deal with, has their own separate alarm system taking temperature readings in the box. So I have no need to use these settings, but they are there if you need them and then there's the alarm time, which is, if I remember correctly, how long it's at that temperature before it goes into alarm right, which makes sense, because you wouldn't want somebody Leaving the door open a little too long to disproportionately quickly yeah, I believe in defrost. It's not gon na go into alarm until it comes out of defrost.

So if it gets like hot in defrost at those sensors, it's not gon na just go into alarm. So you're safe there, then your next is your Fahrenheit or Celsius edit for it. What part of the world you're in, if you're, here probably Fahrenheit everywhere else in the world Celsius, the final setting is off cycle fans stir and able. I have never touched that setting Enix starts in the off position.

It says this allows evaporator fans start cycling, an off cycle, utilizing a fixed air cycle, timing of seven minutes on and five minutes off. So I'm guessing it'll shut your fans off for a short period of time, just to save some energy Angus yeah, I'm imagining this is all for energy savings, probably not the best idea, if you're using air defrost, all right, obviously yeah, clearly next section that we're getting To and pretty much the next main thing on the board that we've discussed already is the monitor menu where you're, basically just going to be looking at the system as its operating. So the first thing you can look at is superheat. Then you can look at your expansion valve steps which are 0 to 255, 0 being closed suction, to actual suction temperature of the pipe then saturated suction temperature based on pressure temperature chart from your pressure transducer.

Then you can look at your actual suction pressure. If it's connected, you can look at outdoor temperature, you can look at the defrost sensor temperature and then you can look at your time until next defrost and then you can look at your last defrost elapsed time. I'm not sure how useful that is, Ford voltage spare temperature reading, because there is a spare port on the board. So you can just add in some other temperature sensor yeah.

You can put another temperature sensor if you want to I'm not sure what the purpose of that is and then there's a software version is the last thing you can look at in the monitor menu and the monitor menu you just scroll through basically by hitting the Monitor button yeah, you keep repeatedly pressing the monitor button, you'll press, it it'll, give the parameter, and then, if you just touch nothing, then it'll show the value for that parameter. And then, if you hit monitor again, it'll go to the next parameter same way. With the program menu got it I'm with so then, like we already discussed the forced defrost. If you press it, the system will pump down and go into defrost mode.

If it has heaters. They'll turn on the reset time will reset the clock to zero so that all change when your next defrost is gon na happen all right and then forcing service is basically just pumping it down right. You just hit the button twice and it pumps itself down exactly handy yep. It's very handy.

A lot of good information is on the side panel of a lot of the evaporators to they'll. Tell you what the frequent parameters are like what the abbreviations mean. So you might not have to look this all up online and then, of course you have your alarms. If there's any alarm it will display on the screen.

You've got high box, temp blue box, temp system, startup failure and then input fault and then there's a whole bunch of errors. So we can talk about them a little bit if you want to get into errors. No most of them are just sensor errors. So obviously, if you're outside of range on any of your sensors and it's either shortage or open shorted, the resistances too low openness outside of the range or not installed, that's a majority of them, and then you get into him trying to see the first one.

Here you have low superheat during cooling, so that would be where you have a set superheat and it's going below that set superheat, exactly compressor shutdown. There's a whole list of potential causes a lot of sensor issues like anything with sensors, but what's nice about this? Is it's really easy to test, because you can look at what the sensor is reporting back to the board via the monitor menu? And then you can just have your sensor that you're, using as a reference and put it next to that sensor and usually they're way off if they're bad. You know I mean they're, not usually a little bit off they're, usually way off by the time you get a service call and it's not working right and the same deal with the transducer there's a suction test, port right there. So you can put a gauge on it and you can look at what's being reported back to the board and if it doesn't agree, then pretty much be assured that the sensor is a problem.

One thing I've seen from installation, though, is people will not take care to make sure that the wires aren't touching defrost heaters and I'm they're probably coming like that from the factory which is kind of bad on them, but not much. You can do about it, but it's a good idea to make sure that your wiring touching defrost heaters, because I've seen error codes and I've just simply repaired a wire that was going to a sensor to keep the unit going yeah, which is critical with sensors with Sensors wire, rub outs, poor connections, things like that or always what you want to look at first before you assume it's the sensor I mean a good solid. Visual inspection is always the way to go. Yeah I've seen a few bad sensors and I've seen only one bad suction, transducer so far, working on this stuff, a lot for the past four months, so not too bad a lot of commissioning errors.

You'll see a lot of those timers aren't set to one minute and you'll get intermittent errors. So if you're working around them, you want to make sure those timers and the condensers are all set to one minute and your pressure controls are set properly. So, let's jump down to page 19, which talks about the electronic expansion valve. If you want to walk me through that a little bit, basically, if you're used to testing v's, you have the standard stuff, you can do a couple little extra things like.

I said this board will actually tell you what position the valve is trying to be in and they just go through checking the winding resistance on the motor, and you can also check the test pins and 0 to 5 volts DC at zero. The valve is closed and five the valve is fully open and in between that the valve is somewhere in between and that's the best information that it gives you here, there's 255 steps between 0 and 5 volts. So unfortunately, that's my main complain about the literature they provide is it'd, be nice to see some better charts like what's one volt, what's 4 volts and the same with the sensors, because it's kind of lacking on that to on, if you scroll down to page 21, Here it gives you the temperature, and it gives you the ohms, that's great and all, but a lot of people don't have a meter that reads: 30,000 ohms, that's one limitation! One thing that they could do that. Somebody else could probably make this chart too.

If they had a good reference meter, is these boards are pushing 5 volts DC or 3 volts DC through this sensor and basically seeing what kind of voltage drop they get across it? So I've seen other charts where they give you Ohm's and they give you voltage. So you checked sensor into sensor out. If you put your meter, leaves there you'd have like 1.5 volts DC, would equal a temperature right. That is nice, that's really nice to have, but they don't give you so.

The sensor ranges from basically 5000 ohms to 176 thousand ohms, so you better have a meter that can read a lot of that range because in a freezer application and even in the cooler application, you're gon na be seeing mainly from 25,000 to 170, 6960. So 32. You have to read 32 thousand six hundred fifty ohms a lot of clamp meters. Don't have that range on them.

Some do but a lot don't so you have to make sure to check your meter yep yep yep. Alright, so is there anything else about these that you've run into quite often that you want to mention: we've pretty much gone over everything that differentiates that, if you're used to electromechanical, this won't be a very big step for you. If you're not, then it's a little bit more of a learning curve, but it's not super complicated. There's pretty good info just my couple little quibbles with some voltage, but it's not necessarily the biggest deal as long as you have the right test equipment and some common sense, yep yep yep, alright man! Well, thank you for coming on and talking about it, and I think next time or maybe not next time, but sometime soon, we're gon na talk about eric is delving into the world of adding air conditioning to a home.

That does not have air conditioning so that'll be exciting. I'm looking forward to hearing what decision you finally made on that yep. I'm still gon na get the tape measure out for that to really get down and see, and I want to talk to you more about equipment selection when you have a chance, but we'll try to come up with some more fun stuff to talk about all right. Man, thank you for all your time.

I have a good one all right, thanks to Eric for doing this, we got some more coming up with him very soon. Thank you to all of you who signed up for the contributor program. If you're listening to this - and I haven't gotten with you yet been very busy coming back from EHR, but all of you who signed up for that program, I'm gon na be touching base with you soon and I'm excited to see what you're gon na create get Out there to help the trade - and I appreciate all the encouragement that I got at ahr - we're gon na - do a recap episode of what we learned at HR. What we experienced here shortly, probably gon na, do that with Bill Spohn, but for everyone who I met, everyone who came up to me.

I appreciate you, I think accidentally assault, one guy, because he came up and he was saying a lot of nice things and I I can only handle so much sincerity at a time, and so I was being sarcastic. He said, he'd just finished singing much. The nice thing sounds like oh man, I hate it when people say that sort of stuff about me and he thought I was serious, and so I felt bad and I tried to explain to him that I was only joking. I was only being sarcastic, but I think I'd already done the damage so anyway, if you ever meet me in person, just realize that I am a deeply sarcastic human being and I'm broken in that way.

So if you're, overly sincere with me just know, I do appreciate it, but I'm probably gon na respond sarcastically. So the other day I was telling my wife, I was encouraging her really just to embrace her mistakes. She smiled and walked up and gave me a big hug all right thanks for listening, and we will talk to you next time on the HVAC school podcast. Thanks for listening to the HVAC school podcast, you can find more great HVAC our education material and subscribe to our short daily tech tips by going to HVAC our school comm.

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