So the complaint is that the walk-in beer walking is about 50 degrees managers, saying that the fans had been off all day. I can't remember if they said they came on at some point: we're at right now, no display on the digital readout. Both units are off so came up onto the roof before I did anything downstairs just to see. What's going on, disconnect switches on defrost timer looks like it just came out of defrost, but condensing, and it's not running I've not applied service gauges or even use.

My electrical meter yet so I was like to do just a little pre inspection see if the fan motor spin they do feel the compressor does not feel warm, so it hasn't been running for a while. So we're gon na get the meter out start checking voltage. So let's go ahead and see if we can find here, I'm gon na check for a three phase voltage coming in on the contactor interesting we've got single phase voltage, so we're going to check the ground. That's line one to ground line two to ground line three ground and I'm just simply testing on this contactor from line one to ground, and I get nothing so we're missing a leg so shut this guy off test in here.

So we got going on it's test. Voltage step back that you guys a get dear here, testing line, one two line: two on to line three line: three line one, so we got voltage incoming, but we don't have voltage going out so obvious we're going to check fuses. Let me go ahead and put my meter on tone. Okay, let's check across the fuse fuze number one is good.

Fuze number two is bad. She is number three is good, so we've got a blown fuse, so I'm not just gon na replace that fuse. Okay, before I go any further, I'm gon na find that line voltage see what it goes to, because I always kind of try to tell people yeah. We could just throw a fuse in there and see if it blows again, but I'd like to see I'm going to test the compressor make sure it's not grounded out.

I'm going to test the condenser fan motors, I'm going to test each way to see now the quick way to do this is to go to the load side of the contactor and test it to ground. Let me get in here and test from each load leg to ground load like three two ground: nothing load leg to to ground; nothing load, leg, one to ground; nothing! So there's nothing! That's an obvious short, but I am going to tell you one thing. Look at this defrost timer. This is something we want to remember and think about notice that it looks like it just came out of defrost, let's look down at the bottom of the defrost timer.

This is a cooler, but look at that. They got an ex terminal and they're wired on number three, so this looks like it's gon na be electric heat for the defrost. So the fact that we've got a blown fuse, the fact that we're just out of defrost before I replace that views, I'm going to check my electrics heaters to make sure, because it's plausible that the unit blew the fuse when it was in defrost. So that's what we're gon na go next again, all this before I'm gon na change fuses, because why waste a fuse? Why potentially blow a main breaker? You know we're gon na we're gon na double check everything before we even replace the fuse.

I opened up all the evaporator coils and did the same test where I owned out each terminal to ground, and I got nothing so that means that I have no obvious grounded out wires doesn't mean I don't have a short somewhere still open up everything. Mind you that still annoyed harness right. There is not being used same thing, went over here and check each terminal to ground. To make sure I didn't have any continuity.

I don't so now. I'm gon na open up the evaporator coils inspect the wiring. I already noticed this and I don't like this - that could be a problem. It's a very common thing, but don't look like it's shorted.

We will repair that, but I'm just gon na go through and inspect everything spin, all the motors obvious and then, if I can't find anything obvious, then I'm gon na go ahead and put fuses in it and turn the unit back on and see. If I can simulate what happened, whether or not it happened in defrost or not okay, so I went ahead. I didn't save spared you the agony and pulled out the fan blades on the other evaporator inspected, everything, nothing obvious. I mean there was that little spot where the wires look like they rubbed over there, but it didn't look like it actually broke the jacket, so I just taped him up and risa cured them, so they're not rubbing on the bottom of the drain, pan anymore.

So at this point nothing is jumping out at me, but one thing I did notice is that there's no silhouette valve in that coil. If we come over here, there's no cylinder valve in this coil, but this temperature controller that you see right here, is controlling a solenoid valve somewhere more than likely it's on top of the box, and I do need to get up on top of there because there Should be a common liquid line and then it's gon na tee off to both coils, more than likely there's a power coming out of that temperature controller, going up to wherever the Silla Knight valves that I did not see it on the roof. However, I will go back up and inspect one more time, so I want to get up to that solenoid valve just to make sure something didn't short out on that and then after that I'll go ahead and replace the fuses and then just turn the power back On and see if I can get it to trip the breaker, if I can't find something at the solenoid valve so but again I know this is painstaking, but I got to go through this because trust me from experience. You don't want to just change fuses because that one time where it's the worst case scenario the rings of being a catastrophe, because you replaced a fuse on something that had a direct Shore.

And we could talk about that later. But it can lead to all kinds of problems, so you you know it always helps to have somewhat not perfect but good organization, so that when it comes time to getting what you need you've got, it looks like I got: 15 amp fuses, 20 amp fuses. I think, what's in there's a 25 but I'll take the 20s up see if that'll help us for now. You don't want to go over the maximum view size.

Those are 30s rather roll with the 20s first. So on the nameplate it says maximum overcurrent protection, 25 amps, I'm gon na point out something just because you see a fuse in there doesn't mean that it's correct, so don't just use. What's in there, there's nothing worse than the excuse of well, I put back in what was in there. We as technicians got to make sure that we're checking everything out so, like I said in my truck, I didn't have 25 amps.

I had 30, 20 and 15. So I'm obviously for troubleshooting purposes gon na put in a 20, because if we look at the unit more than likely for the time being until I can get the right fuses, that will give me by at least a troubleshoot, because defrost heaters are max 19 amps Yeah, so it should be good enough for troubleshooting we'll find out right now. So I'm going to change these fuses. Please pull her out.

I get it in there. There we go okay, first infuses! In there we go okay, it's got some fuses in there again. The unit is out of defrost at the moment. Another thing that I'm noticing too is that timer's really hard to turn it's very, very difficult.

It's all bound up with sand. It's interesting, okay, so turn power on see what happens. So this thing has a digital control. So it's not necessarily going to turn right on.

I mean I'm holding the contact Ren. So it's not calling you compressor runs, but it's family-run eggs gon na be an interesting one. So what I'm gon na do, while I'm waiting for it to turn on, is I'm gon na go ahead and gage up. I've got the JobLink probes here.

We're gon na use those right now temporarily and see we can do the gauges on. I came down here. Just look at the evaporators now that I replaced the fuses still quick inspect, both evap fans are running and my thermostat, so ESD is anti short-cycle delay, so it has a little delay. Usually it's like a minute or two.

There is a way to bypass that. I can't remember so we're just gon na wait for a minute, so it's currently 52 degrees in here and everything's running at the moment, which is kind of a bummer, because this will make troubleshooting a little bit harder because it's not going to jump out in our Face and say this is your problem, so we're gon na have to you, know, evaluate the system, run it through all the tests, defrost everything you know to try to either get it to happen again or to try to find things that are bad. That's that's! Where we're at right now so as far as I service call goes walk-in freezer, I'm sorry, mayor, walkin, there's! Why call that a walk-in freezer was it's a medium temp cooler, but they have electric defrost evaporator coils. So when you see electric defrost, I automatically think walk-in freezer regardless.

So to recap the call the first thing it happened when I got there. So let's do a little recap. The original service call was near walk-in, not tempting. So when I arrived first thing I did spoke to, the manager asked her.

What the symptoms were, what was going on? She said the evaporator coils were not running, the fans were not glowing and they haven't been since yesterday, their box temp, when I did arrive, was about 47 degrees immediately went onto the roof found out that the unit. In fact, was electric defrost down at the evaporator coils, which was a little odd because it is a cooler system, medium temperature, the Box setpoint, is about thirty five degrees. Usually when you see that you typically don't see electric defrost but there's some rare cases. This particular customer really wants to keep their beer walkin that about they want their beer as cold as possible.

So they really like to keep their beer walking down in the 32 degree range 33 degree rings they like to skate the line of freezing their kegs. I'm not a fan of that because then you get nuisance, calls with my beers freezing my beers freezing, so I tend to set their temperatures up at about 35. That's where this particular one was and so anyways. When I arrived, I found blown fuse on the B leg as a boy that happened to be the leg that controlled the thermostat.

That was actually like the control circuit. So before I replace the fuse, went through everything as much as I could to make sure. I didn't have anything that was grounded all the terminals that compressor the condenser fan motors. I basically put my meter on continuity and checked.

Every terminal II could be ground because, from my experience, you can just throw fuses in there see if it blows a fuse again and that very rare, very rare case if it is a direct shard. It causes a big catastrophe and I have had to happen where, instead of checking to see, if I had a grounded compressor, I just replaced the fuse to see if it would blow again whenever place the fuse. It blew again. But it blew the me and then on top of that this is another situation, then, on top of that, when it blew the main, the breaker 1-9.

So I blew an entire panels me that controlled all their AC is in that particular building, and this was a very rare circuit breaker that they couldn't get for a day. It was a disaster. So that's why I say step back to my service call today. That's why I say before you replace the fuses go through at home, everything out to make sure that there's nothing grounded, nothing obvious.

I went through all the electrical inspected. All the wires couldn't find anything wrong. So at that point I went ahead and replace the fuse is all free. I don't replace just one fuse change all three and then went through all unit operations to make sure everything was working properly.

Everything was working, properly, walk, started, coming down to temperature and I let it run for a little while, because the Box temp was at 47 degrees, I needed to get that box temp down. I needed to get the evaporator Tim actually down below 20 degrees to be able to initiate defrost, because it's electric heat and test the heaters. So I had to let it run basically come all the way down to temperature. Then I initiate a defrost and when I initiated defrost actually found that the defrost clock was sticking in which you know you saw in the video where it was hard to turn.

Now I don't like that, and you know I can guess and try to predict the reason why the fuse blew would have been something to do with that defrost clock running slow. I highly doubt it though I think that defrost clock was a whole nother issue, but regardless the defrost clock needed to be replaced. So I replace the defrost clock check the heaters. Everything checked out.

Fine, I did give myself a little disclaimer when I spoke to the manager and just said hey, you know I did not find an electrical short that jumped out of my face and said this is why I'm blowing the fuse. I did find a defrost clock. That was bad, but you know I kind of told her there couldn't still be something going on, but I've done everything in my power short of sitting there for seven hours and watch the inn and operate to make sure that it wasn't going to happen again. I'm pointing that out because be as thorough as possible cover your ass just to be safe other than that everything checked out.

Okay.