Something was funky about that: a through e refrigerant box, temp superheat slave dfn, 37 dfn number of defrosts per day, what the hell 37 something's funky there! That's not right! This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. Today we got a uh beer walk in the south, where this is a uh qrc. It's heating, crafts, quick response, controller equipment, so uh. The problem actually is that it's getting too cold.

So this is a walk-in cooler and it's 26 degrees in here right now. So, let's open this up and see what the qrc display actually says, the temperature in the box is all right. So we've got an error message of a2 and it says it's 25 degrees in the box right now. It's also put itself into a defrost so a2.

If you look right here is going to be low room, temp! Well, no duh um, it's colder than crack in here. What i did was put it into a forced service mode. So that way, it's going to shut off the above fan motors, because i got to get my face up in here all right. I had to unplug the fans because this thing is not shutting off and it's acting really funky.

So now we're getting an e6 which is a low superheat in a2, which is a low temp and it says it's off, but for whatever reason, when i hit for service it's not pumping down, i can hear refrigerant flowing through the expansion valve right now. That's interesting! So i'm going to monitor right now again i disconnected this so the fan shut off so we're going to go to monitor and then we're looking for suction pressure. Scp scp is 50 psi. Why is scp 50 psi? This thing should be shut off right now.

As far as disconnecting the evaporators, i do want to point out that you don't want to do that for very long, because we're flooding that compressor right now so uh the force service. I did it wrong. We got to push it two times to get it to pump down. So that's interesting, it's not responding at all.

I don't know why it's this thing is acting really funky. It's not responding at all to my commands and it's randomly going into defrost. Okay: here's what we're gon na do! I'm gon na go shut off the condensing unit, so at least we're not flooding it anymore, and then that way we can play with this a little bit more yeah. This thing has been running like this for a long time.

The manager actually told me that um, that's weird, why is it not running? The manager actually told me that they've been shutting off the the breaker for the evaporator fan motors, which is not good i'll, be lucky if there's not compressor damage. I don't know why. This wasn't running yet maybe a time delay. No, it doesn't have a time delay anymore.

That's interesting! I went ahead and disconnected 24 volts reset the board, and this is where we're at so we're. Gon na hit program review first see what's going on with the program. Okay, air defrost refrigerant should be 48. A okay, that's correct box.

Temp should be like 30 yeah. 37. Okay, superheat should be eight seven, that's fine! It is not a slave! No um! Let's see that's defrost failsafe. I think dfn wait.

What dff is fail. Safe 20 minutes dft in temperature, 45 dfs is offset. We could wait a minute. Something was funky about that.

A through e refrigerant box, temp superheat slave dfn, 37 dfn number of defrosts per day. What the hell 37 something's funky there! That's not right! Yeah, there's something! Weird going on with this board: let's do six defrosts a day, that's a bit excessive, but for now we're going to leave it at that. That's really weird dff dft, dfs alh, all hey lt! I'm not worried about any of the alarms. Fahrenheit celsius fn5 off.

Okay. So the unit is off right now, all right now, let's look at monitor and see what my temperature is monitor: superheat, negative 15. that doesn't seem right. The expansion valves closed, at least it says it is sct - is suction.

Temperature, 31 sst, 46 scp suction pressure. 81. Psi why that's funky odt dft is uh and tempered wait. What dft is weird since dfe ac 26 volts sp set point: temp wait spt what the hell is: spt spare temperature, that's not being used.

Okay doesn't help that i'm not super familiar with these things. Rel um, i have no idea boy. This compressor is not happy right. Now it's making some funny sounds um some serious flooding going on i'm trying to see if the system's gon na pump down right now we're gon na go downstairs and try to get it to pump down.

I wanted to get my pressure ports on there, so i can verify accuracy of the um uh transducers all right. So my suction pressure is 62 degrees and it says it's 64, i'm sorry 62 psi and it says it's 64 psi. But what i'm concerned about is right here when you look at my expansion valve steps, so we're in a pump down right now, supposedly psp, that's the step to the expansion mode. It says zebra, it says zero, but the valve is open.

Is my concern here? So, what's going on all right, so i did service mode and it it thinks that it pumped down the expansion valve steps are zero, but i can still hear refrigerant flowing and we're still at 60 psi. So something's going on with the expansion valve. I think um interesting because let's go to the steps again super okay, this esp, i believe, is the steps and that's zero. That's interesting! So if we look right here, esp is expansion valve steps huh very, very interesting.

I need to do some reading to find out if there's a way that maybe the expansion valve's out of whack and i need to reset it. I can't think that the expansion valve is stuck open, but there's always that possibility too all right. I'm back up on the roof. I went ahead and pumped down at the receiver.

Um heatcraft has a method here. I don't think what i'm thinking is accurate, but he craft just tells you to check the valve, which i kind of already know that the valve is leaking by. But the only thing i want to know because the board was acting funky. I want to know if, like the val, the board doesn't know the proper steps on the valve like something's out of sync or something.

That's what i want to check um simply because of how the board was giving me weird numbers and had a weird defrost setup in it, and things like that, so i'm gon na wait for it to pump down we're gon na go downstairs check the valve again. Make sure it's at zero and then confirm that the valve itself is actually bad all right for giggles we're gon na try this one more time so we're in service mode right now, so it's pumped down we're gon na go to expansion valve steps. It says zero that expansion valve is closed. So, when i open up the receiver on the roof, we should get no refrigerant flow, and if we do, we just have a bad expansion valve.

There's nothing that i can check to see if the valve is out of sync or whatever i was thinking. I don't even know if that's possible. I just had it in my head that maybe maybe something happened within the board and the valve. But i'll have to look into that a little bit more, but um yeah.

At this point, i think we're going to have to replace the expansion valve, but i'll do that last test, one more time, real, quick, all right. So, as i open this, we should have no refrigerant flow and if the pressure start to climb on the suction side, that's a problem yeah that valve is definitely leaking by all right. We're gon na run a self-test on this real, quick, so we're gon na push. This back in we're going to check voltage we're going to hit clear test, we're going to go into test mode right now and while it's in test mode, you should see the voltage go on and off um.

If you follow the instructions, it tells you that it should be, i think, 18 to 20 something degrees or 18 to 20 volts, or something like that. If i remember right, i know it passed it so we're getting 28 volts and it goes on and off on and off so we've got the correct voltage that indicates that potentially the board is working properly. So with that being said, we take this off. I'm going to disconnect power because i don't need that on for the moment and uh.

The next troubleshooting step that i did was moving over here to this coil and we're going to check the coil real, quick following their instructions. We checked from a to b on the coil orientation like that, and we get 150 ohms approximately okay and then we're going to check the other windings and we get four ohms that should be reading 150 and notice how it's slowly, climbing so the coil on the Eev is damaged, and i have a new coil right here and we can prove that it's working properly. This does depend on temperature and they do tell you that reading is at 75 degrees, so give or take a little bit. But this one's reading 140 - and this is a brand new coil and then, when i flip it over to the other side, it's reading 142..

So here's the question: this coil is defective. Why what happened to it? I talked to heatcraft and they said you can change. Just the coil, but here's the problem, the coil comes with the whole valve. So what caused it to burn up is my concern: was it just a faulty coil or is the valve starting to stick inside? Okay, we've got the uh nitrogen flowing through the system.

I've got viper, wet rag heat blocking compound on there. We're gon na go ahead and do this top one first raise this guy in the valve comes in the open position, so you can braze with nitrogen. You don't have to open the valve at all or anything like that, we're using a number one tip and a torch, so i did the bottom or the top one first. So that way, some of the heat would rise away.

I mean, i know it's gon na flow towards anything but again, very important that we blow up nitrogen or purge with nitrogen and then also we um. We purged the system before when i cut the valve out or when we had the valve out. We purged it with nitrogen to try to make sure that anything that was stuck in there might be out. I got a little bit of dirty residual oil kind of nasty looking but um that was pretty much it so we're just gon na.

Do an inspection on the valve make sure the brace joints look good and then we'll get on the dryer, so that one looks good. That one looks good good contact all the way around. That one has good contact all the way around too. It looks good now.

Normally, you don't want to cool a braised joint, but when you've got an electronic expansion valve or eev, even though we got the heat blocking compound, we got to be careful, so get the cool on there and then uh we're gon na get upstairs and start doing. The dryer right now, all right, we are gon na sprays in the fittings i'm using pre-made flares on this. A lot of people, don't trust the pre-made flares, but i've had good luck with them. Okay get around this backside.

Okay, bottom one's a little tricky; still. Never the prettiest on my bottom braces and then we got this last valve all right. I installed a spoiling catch-all. It didn't line up but install the catch-all, hopefully that'll, protect everything.

I want an oversized capacity dryer with a 16 cubic inch. I went ahead and put a flare and you guys know my style so that way, it's easier for me or the next guy next time to have to replace it. That way, then i'm going to bring torches up here. I did have to re-pipe a few things and i did use pre-made flares like i said, but i i've had pretty good luck with them, always inspect them, so tightened everything down oiled the nuts before i put them on uh we're gon na get ready to pull The evacuation now this entire time we've been purging with nitrogen, so we're gon na pull the evacuation and then hopefully start it up vacuum's running um.

Now i've said this before i'll say it again. This is a pumped down system. I shut this valve down the king valve my front seated it the refrigerant flow stopped through that valve. My experience is that these valves still leak and being that this is a pumped down system.

You will not see a perfect vacuum. I'm not going to see this pull down to 400 microns and hold it's not going to happen because my experience correct me, i mean, if you guys have other experience. Let me know, but my experience is, is that, in order to get that 400 microns in the perfect decay test, you basically are going to pull all the refrigerant out of the system. So what you're doing is you're pulling against the the scroll set and you're pulling against that king valve and they're just not leak free in my experience and then also, i guess, you're pulling on the the headmaster too or head pressure control valve in a way.

So there's too many leak points on this, so if i could get it below a thousand, i'm a happy camper on this all right, we're gon na do a double take just to make sure everything's back together. The valve orientation is correct. Sensors are all back in place, look how they make that stuff all nice and pretty in there. Okay, we're good we're good all right! I'm gon na apply power valves, closing perfect, perfect and closed.

So then, i'm going to go ahead and hit test. Okay, actually, no reset i'm going to go ahead and have my tech on the roof turn it on and we should not be flowing right now, while it's still off all right. So we are running right now. Um yeah we're at about 70 psi and i'm hoping that it's pumping down right now so that matches what i'm reading right here, i'm using my wireless setup right now so 57.58 yeah we're good okay.

So we got to make sure that it actually so the fans just shut off. We got to make sure that it actually pumps down and shuts off, and then that will tell us that the valve is doing what it's supposed to be doing. So i'm going to let it keep pumping down just to make sure now the question is what caused the valve to fail, that i don't know and i'm concerned about that and that's why i went ahead and changed. It is because look tech support, told me like hey.

If you want, you can change just the solenoid coil, but the problem is, is you can't they? They? Their part came with the valve too. So i was going to sell the customer a ridiculously expensive, solenoid coil and then my problem is is what happens if it burns that new one up do i have to buy a whole new assembly again and what caused the solenoid coil to fail, so usually in, Like normal solenoid valves, if the valves getting sticky or something it can cause the solenoid to burn out - or at least that's my experience, the coil, so that's why i changed the whole assembly just get it done. I was here so we got to wait and make sure that this thing actually pumps all the way down. Okay, we satisfied it shut off and it's holding and we're not bypassing anymore.

The valve is sealed, we're looking good so now we're going to go ahead and turn this guy on. Let's go ahead and hit reset okay, so we're gon na wait for it to turn on, and everything should be good. I'm just waiting for this to turn on uh. It says air temperature is 50 and i'm reading about 47 i'm reading about 47.

So pretty close. I've got my thermometer back here: uh the defrost temperature or the coil temperature, and this one right here - there's a sensor right back there and that back corner that one's reading about the same 50, something degrees. So it's not 50 degrees in here, though, because their kegs are actually frozen still so uh once the air starts, moving around the temps actually dropping quite quick. This thing's running sight glass is clear, got ta, love that spoiling see all the things nice and big.

So you can really see in there. Well i thought it was done. I was wondering if we were gon na run into a problem. The compressor just shut off on thermal overload so uh that sucks um, i'm wondering if that low superheat washed the oil out of the compressor.

That's not good at all um. I unplugged it for now left the condenser fan motors running to cool it off, we'll probably get a hose up here and cool this guy off and see if we can't get it to restart. I just thought of something and i'm hoping it's this easy. So it's still cooling off.

I left the condenser fan motors running just disconnected the molex plug this pressure control. These things constantly uh scroll, compressors, don't like pumping down past five psi, and i remember this thing when we were trying to pump it down earlier. It pulled down to like four psi and then it uh, the internal pressure relief happens. So i'm gon na try to adjust this if i can get it to reset and see.

If that's why it went off on thermal all right, the thermal overload has reset yep. We're doing good so far, so we're gon na go and put it back together. I'm gon na shut it off. I made an adjustment to the pressure control too.

All right we're getting ready to start it up, and i did confirm when i pulled it off. I had 208 three phase going to that compressor, so it's cooled down we're gon na try to start it up and see if it'll run now. So it's running four amps and you're allowed to run 4.7, so we're running 4.2 we're gon na. Let it run for a few minutes and then i'm going to try to pump it down after i made the pressure control adjustments all right, so it shut down yeah! That's not good! You heard that restart! That's why that pressure control is out of whack yeah.

That's why it's doing it the pressure control is jacked up. I tried adjusting and it didn't take the pressure setting all right - i'm not an advocate for doing hot swaps all the time, but i am going to do a hot swap here. So i got the old pressure control bypass, we're pumping it down. I front seated the king valve - i'm not going to drag all my crap back up here to do this again once i get it to shut down, i'm going to turn off the compressor and we're just going to swap out under a low pressure.

So we're going to shut it off about right there and, let's make sure that it holds and doesn't rise too high. We may have to turn it on again, because sometimes some oil is boiling out of the compressor or something let's give it. A couple seconds looks like it just popped back up, we're gon na give it a couple seconds now. This is the reason why heatcraft installs these time.

Delays in here there's a time delay down there, but you can't use the time delay with the qrc because it interferes with it. So it's just kind of silly um all right we're going to give it another couple seconds we're going to turn this back on. I want to get it a little bit lower than 23 psi. If i can turn it on again, 16 psi.

No, what the heck do. We have a bad pressure relief. What the heck is going on here. It's like the pressure relief.

Just let go in the compressor 79 psi. What the flip! What's going on, man look at we're pumped down with the king valve, there's no way for the pressure in the system so rise like that. It's happening inside the scroll, oh man, this sucks, i told you earlier, i was making a funky sound when it was running, so it pulls down it's like 20 psi, but then i shut it off and it just rises. It's leaking internally in the compressor.

Let's see if he keeps going on this one, this one stopped at 30 psi, it's so weird all right, um yeah, i don't know see it's it's stopping now! It's not doing it again. What the heck, let's give it a minute and see if it pops free again all right, we swapped out the pressure control um and it's not bypassing anymore. I don't know what the heck that was. I don't know if the pressure relief inside was about ready to release.

I i don't get it, but it's not doing it anymore. So we shut off about 23 psi and then it rose up to about 26 and held so right. Now we're going downstairs to reset the evaporator, because it's off on a delay, i'm sure low, superheat or something like that, um so and then we'll test it again. Yeah that was a trip.

The pressure control wasn't shutting it off and then it was causing the compressor to go off on thermal and do some funky stuff things hot too still all right. We just pumped down again it's satisfied. I believe i have someone going downstairs to check it. Um, i'm putting this stupid time delay back into here, you're not supposed to have the time delays on these qrc's, but i'm worried about this thing.

These things do not like to turn on and off so this damn thing is running high amps now too 5.7 amps, but it's flooding back. That's why i'm thinking we might be in pumped down at the moment. Let's see if it pumps down nope, not in pump down just turn back on 56, this psi all over the map. Right now, i wonder if that thing's, bypassing inside the compressor like letting pressure through or something this is one of those things i swear.

I cannot escape this crap, so my discharge that the head pressure control valve is bypassing right. Now, it's not supposed to bypass to 150 psi, so discharge line temperature is 145 degrees. Okay, the line going into the receiver is 112, and then the line coming out of the bottom of the condenser is 79., we're totally bypassing right now on that, damn head pressure control valve what the heck for real. This is insane right now, good grief, so we're sending high temperature liquid what the heck man yeah the receiver is red hot.

I was wondering why my head pressure was so high when it's like 80 degrees outside the compressor. Just went off on thermal overload again, but that damn headmaster is bypassing. Why it shouldn't be all right. We're pulling the gas out all this, and i still don't know if there's an issue with the compressor or if it was just starting off a thermal overload.

Because of the head pressure control valve, that was bypassing, but it's weird though, because it wasn't horrendous. I mean there was a couple points today that i saw 300 head pressure and this is 448a. So that's you know a really hot day, but then it dropped down. It was like it was bypassing, but then not bypassing, but right now this is the first time it was running, consistent, high amps, the entire time.

So i don't know and that that thing shouldn't i tried clipping the tip too, and it didn't even relieve the pressure. It's almost like it's not, i don't know all right. Well we're gon na get a bypass because i don't have one so all right. We are purging through on the high side port right there.

So that way it runs through all of our valves. I'm gon na cut these guys out real, quick unsweat this one and we've got this open. So it's cleaning everything as i take that valve out. So all i'm going to do is pinch.

This shut because we're probably going to come in and put in a new head pressure control valve, possibly we'll see we're going to pinch this shut and then just run a piece from here to here permanently. Then pull an evacuation on it now it sucks i'm in a hurry. I'm frustrated, but still the last thing i want to do is plug up the new electronic valve, so we still are brazen with nitrogen trying our best. I went ahead and blew through this and blocked these two off with nitrogen and like pressurized it to see if there was like oil in the condenser, but no it's coming right through.

So i made a little 90 right here: swaged it on each end, sweat it on and then we're gon na sweat this one shut. So we need to weld or sweat this this and this right here so kind of burnt the copper on the top a little bit there. It's good, though, that ain't going nowhere, okay, a quick inspection, there's a little drip on the back, but it'll be all right! That one's good, that one's good all right, we're good we're waiting for the evacuation to pull down. In the meantime, i pulled apart this head pressure, control valve, okay, there's some sort of goo right there, not too bad, but check this out.

This was on the seat, so i get my camera to focus on it. It's a little piece of copper stuck on the seat and that's why the head pressure control valve couldn't shut, that little piece of copper was stuck now where that came from. I don't know it doesn't really look like a burr, but it's obviously off of a piece of pipe or something like that. Something was floating in the system.

Now i don't know, if that's what caused the you know, i don't think that's what caused the expansion valve to stick out. Well, maybe i don't know this is an interesting one, anyways all right. Well, let's hope that this fixes it all right. We are running everything calmed down.

Head pressure dropped. I think i was missing the head pressure earlier. I just wasn't seeing it again, i'm so used to working with 404a that a 300 head pressure doesn't even strike me odd, but sometimes you can have tunnel vision. Now.

The original problem, though, was the expansion valve. They called me saying their walking was getting too cold and everything was freezing so fixed that. But then, when i came up here, i was missing. The head pressure control valve was already bypassing i'm wondering if the head pressure control valve had a lot to do with everything.

I know that had a lot to do with the super heat flying all over the place, we're not flooding back anymore. We just got a steady six, seven degree superheat coming to this thing: monitoring out the board so by flooding, high temperature, liquid, slash vapor. Well, it wasn't vapor, but just liquid refrigerant downstairs, you know, i guess it was just making the valve flood all right. We're back.

Today, um we're gon na change. This head master head pressure, control valve how to bring the whole van back up here, so that was fun um we're going to start by recovering the gas real quick! This shouldn't take us long, we're not even going to change the dryer because the it was two days ago, so we're just going to pull a good evacuation, make sure we braise with nitrogen and knock it out real quick, hopefully all right while i was waiting for The evacuation: it's done now we were kind of prepping everything, sanding everything up kind of getting an idea. How we're going to install the new valve. I've got a nitro flow going into the discharge line and then we have it open at the receiver in hopes that we get most of the nitrogen purging through this area.

Now you know when purging with nitrogen, it's not going to be perfect. You know, there's there's going to be spots in here that aren't going to get a great purge, but we're just going to try our best got this guy all prepped and re-piped everything's sanded d-bird swaged. I was going to redo this whole thing right here, but i'd rather not unbrace and heat up the aluminum joint right there. If i don't have to so we're going to keep it up here, yeah we're going to wrap this guy in heat blocking compound the wet rag, viper wet rag - stuff right here, all right, so we have the nitrogen flowing through.

I put plenty of the heat blocking compound: the viper wet rag, stuff um, the more the better actually all right that didn't work out too. Well, all right, so we're gon na heat everything away from the valve first, so we'll go ahead and do these ones i'm using a zero tip, really small right. Now i like to see that pull up into there a little bit more there you go, i'm a heavy on the solder kind of guy. I'd rather see a lot of solder than not enough um we're flowing with nitrogen right now trying to protect the valve as much as possible.

I'm just kind of looking for the solder, that's already existing on the line to go liquid and then i kind of have my go ahead. Delay more fill more solder on there. Brazing rod make sure that it pulls into the valve looks like i might be running out of uh seven. Possibly so, let's see, if we can finish this yeah, i'm running out of gas come on baby, you can make it.

Let's get this done almost there. Only one more to go after this, i don't think we're gon na make it come on baby. You can do it man for real. Let me try one more time.

I don't think we're gon na make it maybe so so so is that everything i think? That's all of them now i got ta, inspect them and make sure that they actually all took. I literally just ran out of solder that one's hook fill not the prettiest thing. I'm not trying to win a beauty contest here that one filled uh-oh all right. We're trying too hard it's not gon na take, we got ta go get another tank.

All right is this. This is the one all right. We got new acetylene and oxygen on there and you can actually see that we have flow, so i'm just gon na heat. These guys up real quick, this one had take took, but it just i don't know i don't like seeing gaps so just gon na heat them up real, quick one more time, just to make sure that we got good coverage same thing on the valve.

Just to be safe, it's gon na heat it up, probably don't even need solder on almost anything just to make sure check this one. I think everything else is good, so i'm gon na do another inspection, real, quick, this one's definitely good cool. This one's good. This one's good, this one's cool, no problem, this one's good, so we're going to cool these guys and get that heat blocking compound off.

First, actually, i just use like a towel or something or rod anything really, the more the stuff you use the better. It's gon na block the heat because it has more mass for it to absorb the heat of the other stuff. So if you go super skimpy, your valve's still going to get really hot, oh yeah. This is doing good.

Now, while i was going to get the new gas, what i did was, i threw a wet towel over everything, so that way the wet towel will try to absorb some of the heat from the heat blocking compound. That's all it does is just absorb the heat before it can get absorbed into your valve. Really all right. So that's pretty good uh! Oh, i got a little bit more to go up here.

Get that off hopefully, and then uh we'll just hit it with a wire brush and a wet towel. All right got the vacuum pump running we're still kind of high in the microns, so the gas ballast was still open about 1700. We'll close it here in a minute uh new valve is in. I wanted to point something out, so i used the viper wet rag.

Um you know, old school was use a towel. There's nothing wrong with the towel. Well, there's some downsides to using the towel, but there's some downsides to using this. I mean it just depends.

You have to you have to you know, look at the situation. The thing that sucks about a wet towel wet towel is true and tested. It's worked for years, wet rag is true and tested too. It works.

It's it's a newer product, you know by by viper, but it's a great product now using a wet towel. In a situation like this, the water is going to drip down to your braised joint and, if you guys have ever had that happen, when you're trying to do a lower braised joint you've got water dripping down or steam messing with your brace joint. You know what i mean, i mean it's a pain in the butt, so that's where this stuff really excels. Now i get quite a few uses out of this, but you lose a little bit.

I think i got a little bit down here on the ground. You know you lose a little bit every time, but it's okay. All i do is add a couple drops of water to this kind of mush it up and keep using it. It's okay, if it's dirty, but you can clearly see how it blocks the heat.

I mean you can see the braze joint, the brace joint, the brace joint and the valve is pristine. I would say that valve's about a hundred degrees right now, no big deal okay, um, and it really wasn't that much hotter, the entire time i was brazing it even when i pulled the heat blocking compound off now. The key thing about using this, though, is you, don't just leave it on there, because all that this stuff does is uh pull the heat away from the component. Now, eventually, this is going to get full of so much heat that it's going to start to transfer the heat to the component right.

You see what i'm saying with that. So you can't just leave it on there and walk away, get this stuff off as fast as possible. So when i ran out of gas, what i did is i went and grabbed a wet towel and threw it over there. So that way, the wet towel would start absorbing the heat of the compound.

So that way, it wouldn't be just you know going into the valve, but it's important to understand how to use it. You don't want to just put it on there and walk away and right after you get done brazing and just let the stuff sit on there, because it's just going to transfer the heat to the valve right. You know you want to be as quick as possible when you're using it, but i really do like the wet rag stuff, so i uh front seated the king valve on the receiver, so i'm just filling the receiver with as much gas as i can. Then that way i can control it making its way through the system.

So you can see we still have no pressure on the low side we put in about seven pounds. I think that's about all. It's going to take we're going to close off the high side, hose turn the system on and then meter in the rest of the refrigerant thing. Uh takes about 14 pounds of gas and i am gon na have to add a pound or two because you're never gon na get like there's loss in the recovery machine and then there's gon na be a little bit.

That's stuck in the tank, so we will have to add about a pound or two to get it to the total, 14 or 14 pounds all right, we're all finished up. Um working i'm still a little worried about that compressor, but we'll just tell them to keep an eye on it. Everything's good. We didn't have any more error messages.

When i bypassed the head pressure control valve, it was fine when we got here this morning, so customers happy we're gon na call. This one done all right that one really worked me i mean you know i felt like success. Um replacing the eev. You know it went smooth, it was like okay, you know, the diagnostic of the eev was a little funky, but all right cool and, to be frank, that was the first eev i've ever replaced.

I've really never had any problems with eevs um. I always when i'm. I shouldn't say i always because there's a few that i haven't done, but i really strive to braze with nitrogen every time, i'm using any. You know working on an eev system, because i'm so afraid i hear people saying they have problems all the time and i've.

Yet to have them so i'm just always really adamant about using nitrogen when you're brazing on those systems, but this is the first one and that little um or actually - and i don't know what caused the eev to fail. I'm in my head, i'm still kind of wondering, like you know, was it just a coil, the the solenoid coil that failed on the ev. That was a really interesting one into to. I don't know if people are going to get confused by this.

This system doesn't have a liquid line. Solenoid valve okay heat craft uses the eev as its solenoid valve, so maybe that helps a little bit more okay. So that's why when the board says it's at zero steps, it should be shut and it wasn't um. So that was interesting.

You know so i got the ev replaced and then you know i kind of knew there was going to be something going on with the compressor, because i had been flooding for a very long time and and to make it make more sense too. I mentioned in the video that i was afraid because the manager said for the last couple weeks they've been having this problem and they decided they didn't want to call they've just been shutting off the breaker for the evaporator fan motors, which i told her that doesn't Shut off the compressor so that compressor kept running and running and running and that eev was stuck open and it was just flooding the compressor out. So i'm still worried about the compressor. There was some funky stuff going on in there, but i do think that the the when it was going off on thermal and i finally found that the head pressure control valve was bad.

I have a feeling that um, the head pressure was getting so high that the pressure relief was on the verge of bypassing and that's why, when i had pumped the system down and then all of a sudden the the suction pressure just flew up, you know i Have a feeling it was just on the verge of bypassing the internal pressure relief, basically so um now, as far as the um, the head pressure control valve, that was an interesting one, so i installed that system about two years ago. I don't know if i said that in the video - and i know that i braised with nitrogen - and i don't think that burr was from me. I think that burr was from heat craft at the factory. Now i have seen some some funky stuff come out of heat crap that has driven me nuts over the years.

I've shown it in videos but think about this. That burr was in the um in the bottom of the head pressure control valve. It was coming up. The discharge line - okay and it was stuck in the valve - i mean it it's, it could have been from me, but i don't think it was because it, the only braze joints i made when i did.

The installation on that system was the suction line at the evaporator, the liquid line at the evaporator. We have a one piece line set. I bent it the whole way up, there's no braze joints anywhere else, and then we have a braze joint at the suction and liquid of the condensing unit. So, in order for a burr to come back to that comp or to that head pressure, control that would have to go through the suction line, it would get dumped into the compressor go to the bottom of the compressor, then that bur would have to get pumped Out into the discharge line out the top of the compressor all the way into that head pressure, control valve and while it'd be possible, i don't think it was, i think, from uh the the day that that unit was built.

I believe that there's burrs in those lines and that's what caused that head pressure control valve to fail. There was nothing wrong with the valve. It was just. There was something stuck inside of it.

You know it just sucked, but anyways we got it going. It was a stressful one. It has now been about two and a half weeks, since i did that car a week. I don't know it was like a week ago, maybe two weeks ago, something like that, but everything has been good.

The customer's been happy. I even went back and did a follow-up visit. You know no issues, hopefully the compressor doesn't become a problem. I did let the customer know that i was worried about the compressor, but right now we're just going to let it be and we'll just monitor it.

Now, of course, it's not really probably going to be a problem throughout the fall in the winter. It'll probably take a dump in the summer time when it gets really hot and you know anyways, but that's a whole nother headache to worry about. Then i really really appreciate you guys making it through this one. This was a long one um.

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