This was an experiment where I removed the charge of an operating R-290 system and replaced it with R-134a refrigerant to see how it would operate.
DISCORD SERVER LINK https://discord.gg/j8eyfC2
MY NEW YOUTUBE HVACR TOOL REVIEW CHANNEL LINK https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO-nk0rPOkp_tCS5diKpa-Q/
Video support - To support my videos please visit either of the links below
For Patreon https://www.patreon.com/Hvacrvideos
For Streamlabs https://streamlabs.com/hvacrvideos
Tool Links
Fieldpiece VP85 vacuum pump https://amzn.to/2MUE9t6
Tru Blu vacuum hoses https://accutools.com/evacuation-kits
Wagner heat gun https://amzn.to/2FnmohZ
Seek shot pro thermal camera https://amzn.to/2QMOzMC
Fieldpiece wireless scale https://amzn.to/2SUxDGH
Fieldpiece SC660 Wireless Swivel Clamp https://amzn.to/2JXji7I
FieldPiece JobLink probes https://amzn.to/2WfQTRI
Samsung Tablet https://amzn.to/2EOYL1U
For Optimizing my videos I use Tube Buddy
https://www.tubebuddy.com/HVACRVIDEOS
Please consider subscribing to my channel and turning on the notification bell by clicking this link https://goo.gl/H4Nvob
Social Media
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/HVACR-Videos...
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/hvacrvideos/
For any inquiries please contact me at hvacrvideos @gmail.com
Mailing Address
HVACR VIDEOS
12523 LIMONITE AVE.
#440 - 184
MIRA LOMA, CA. 91752
DISCORD SERVER LINK https://discord.gg/j8eyfC2
MY NEW YOUTUBE HVACR TOOL REVIEW CHANNEL LINK https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO-nk0rPOkp_tCS5diKpa-Q/
Video support - To support my videos please visit either of the links below
For Patreon https://www.patreon.com/Hvacrvideos
For Streamlabs https://streamlabs.com/hvacrvideos
Tool Links
Fieldpiece VP85 vacuum pump https://amzn.to/2MUE9t6
Tru Blu vacuum hoses https://accutools.com/evacuation-kits
Wagner heat gun https://amzn.to/2FnmohZ
Seek shot pro thermal camera https://amzn.to/2QMOzMC
Fieldpiece wireless scale https://amzn.to/2SUxDGH
Fieldpiece SC660 Wireless Swivel Clamp https://amzn.to/2JXji7I
FieldPiece JobLink probes https://amzn.to/2WfQTRI
Samsung Tablet https://amzn.to/2EOYL1U
For Optimizing my videos I use Tube Buddy
https://www.tubebuddy.com/HVACRVIDEOS
Please consider subscribing to my channel and turning on the notification bell by clicking this link https://goo.gl/H4Nvob
Social Media
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/HVACR-Videos...
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/hvacrvideos/
For any inquiries please contact me at hvacrvideos @gmail.com
Mailing Address
HVACR VIDEOS
12523 LIMONITE AVE.
#440 - 184
MIRA LOMA, CA. 91752
This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Alright, I want to start this off by giving a disclaimer do not under any circumstances, try what I'm about to do. I do not want anybody to get any ideas from what I'm about to do. I'm doing an experiment, I was in a controlled environment.
I was very safe about what I was doing. Do not try to be an engineer. Do not try to you know, redesign things. If you don't know what you're doing I'm an idiot, I clearly don't know what I'm doing, but I'm just kind of making some assumptions and some guesses here.
Okay, to give some context, I'm gon na be doing an experiment here, where I take a are 290 refrigerator, completely operating actually brand new. That long story short the customer asked me to dispose of, but I decided to use it to do some experimenting. Stefan, I am going to be taking this our 290 refrigerant. What I do is I remove all the our 290 from it.
I pull a proper evacuation, make sure that it passes a decay test and the video is gon na start with me. Weighing in new are 290, I'm gon na weigh in the factory charge, and then the video will pretty much lay out the rest of what I'm gon na do. Okay, so the videos gon na start off with me weighing in the brand new, are 290 charge and then, after that, we will go through the experiment and try a few things. Okay, all right, so we're getting ready to charge this guy.
This unit takes a hundred and thirteen grams, and one thing that I will say is you know: kind of crappy is most scales, won't read and increments pass like 105 110. They don't like this. One won't say 113, so you kind of got to figure it out. I've already purged right here, so we've purged that we're gon na zero our scale and we're gon na go ahead and charge it in the system still in a vacuum.
We're charging it on the high side. So it should take quite a bit and in fact we actually need to go ahead and purge there. We go just to get the air out we're good okay. So now we need to go ahead and zero it out and we're gon na go ahead and open.
This guy up, actually, I should have yeah we're good, okay, make sure it's zeroed and then we're gon na open this guy up and we're going to a hundred and thirteen grams of our 290. I'm pretty sure it'll pull it all in because we're in such a good vacuum liquid, our 290. So I should pull it in pretty good go and let that happen. I still don't have probes on here, we'll put those on here in just a minute.
We just want to get this guy charged up and then we're gon na take some vitals and see how long it takes to come down to temp with our 290 and then we'll go ahead and remove the charge vacuum it down again. Make sure we have a popper evacuation and then we'll go ahead and put 134a in it and then do the test to see you know how well it works with our 290 vs. 134 eh, all right. It's getting dark outside, but my unit is starts in a defrost, so I'm gon na pop it out a defrost right now and we're gon na fire. It up. You know just fired up. I'm gon na start the stopwatch on my wrist. Okay, what we're gon na do this unit has the factory charge in it brand new.
I waited in from a proper vacuum, like you guys saw I'm monitoring, evaporator superheat. I am moderating discharge temperature, liquid line temperature outdoor air and then obviously, the pressures we're gon na see how long this unit takes to come down to temperature and at what from the factory, we're gon na benchmark the settings. When we figure out what kind of an evaporator, TD and condenser TD that they run with our 290 and then we're gon na mimic, those numbers when I put 134a in so essentially if this thing runs with a you know, 15 degree, condenser TD, then we're gon Na mimic that with 134a or attempt to and the same thing for the evaporator TD and then we're gon na see we're gon na time the pull down time from startup my box is, I have had the doors open for quite a while, so my box is 57 degrees inside right now so we'll mimic those tomorrow when we pull down with 134a all right, we are at 22 minutes and the unit has satisfied. So, let's just call it 20 minutes, yep, satisfied and happy all right.
So I let this thing run overnight. Came back out it's down to temperature again, this has our 290 in it and with the factory charge, our numbers are not crazy. I mean I have no set idea as to what the numbers would be. I've not talked to the manufacturer, so just off of the factory charge, that's weighed in you can see that as my expansion valve opens and closes my subcooling changes, which would be expected because this system does not have a receiver.
So it's using the condenser as the storage device, so the refrigerant backs up in the condenser and then leaves the condenser depending on how much the expansion valve opens and closes. So that seems good. I set my benchmark. Temperatures based off of the evaporator and condenser TD of the unit operating right now, my box temp.
I just opened a door to bring the box temp up a little bit because it was just about to satisfy, but it's coming down in temperature. This is what we're seeing we're seeing pretty normal. The expansion valve is doing its job, adjusting the superheat it's trying to maintain about 10 degrees superheat, and when I open the door it you know changed and all that but sub coin I've seen it anywhere from 10 to 15 degrees, yeah everything's, looking good. So the next part of this step, so this is a fully operating r2 90 system.
I'm gon na take some thermal imaging videos of the condenser and of the evaporator and then we're gon na get some current draw of the unit and then we'll continue on with the test. We're going to go to thermal image mode right now, and what we have here is our condenser coil doesn't look like anything's too abnormal. It's the evaporator, nothing crazy-looking! So yeah, I don't see any problems with this and everything seems to be operating properly. Last thing I took the cover off the condenser, so we can get a better thermal image view and I've got the redfish 550 meter on there and I'm measuring the total power usage of this unit. I've removed the r2 90 charge and I'm sweeping the system with nitrogen to agitate the compressor a few times try to get any of our 290 vapor out of the oil. This way, I am never theoretically, as long as that, nitrogen is dry and has no moisture. I'm never introducing moisture into this system and I'm simply just sweeping with nitrogen from the r2 90. So basically, I vented the r2 90 charge, which is totally legit and then left a slight amount of pressure in there hooked up the nitrogen purged it as I was screwing it on vented it, and now I'm just purging with nitrogen.
So now, there's theoretically should be nothing but nitrogen in the system, and now we're gon na do an evacuation on it. Yeah you can see we're like coming down at a funky angle and what you'll notice. So you see my microns, I'm only pulling from one side at this moment, but what will happen is I move this over here. I'm only pulling from one side at this moment, but you'll notice that what happens when I shame to shake the compressor.
That number jumps, because the nitrogen and the refrigerant now is boiling out of the oil. So what we're gon na do? We can do some things to speed that up. You can just continue to agitate it. You can heat up the compressor with a crankcase heater with a heating blanket, or something like that.
I happen to have a heat gun he'd. Be careful though, because this has flammable refrigerant in it. Now it's just vapor, but it still might have pockets. So I have a heat gun on there and I bet you anything.
We see a spike in a minute once it heats up oil, so right now we're at 5300 microns, I'm very carefully heating it up with a heat gun, making sure it's not gon na melt. Anything else - and I bet you once that compressor gets hot enough you'll start seeing that micron reading go up, it'll, probably reflected in the graph. More than likely I'll show you guys when it pops up. There was a little bump because trapped vapor, refrigerant and nitrogen is popping out of the oil, but it's coming down.
Now, I'm only pulling from one side, I'm gon na go ahead and open up this other side, because I want to speed it up. It is gon na make some for some funky numbers with a vacuum. You notice now that I opened that up. It's gon na start dropping really fast, and that has a lot to do with with the micron gauge being so close to where the hose is connected.
So another thing I didn't do is I didn't open the gas ballast, but it's okay, so you'll see a drop now and yeah all right. I'm gon na show something real quick, so you see little spikes and that's all the vapor boiling out of the refrigerant, the nitrogen and the refer amines, sorry out of the oil, the nitrogen and the refrigerant. But if we come up here - and we look at this - so I opened this core removal tool up, so it was pulling from both sides but to get a true reading. I need to close it, but this is going to just show you how important it is to have your micron gauge hooked up to the right side. So, even though it was reading really low once i've valved it off and now it's only getting a true reading from the other side. Look at how high it's climbing, because that wasn't an accurate reading. The reason why the micron gauge was so low was because it was connected too close to the hose and it was actually getting more pull from the vacuum pump, then the actual true reading of the system. Alright, this is my final decay test.
I'm gon na go ahead and call it at this. It's it's slowly rising, but I think we're gon na be okay, so I'm gon na let it decay for a few more minutes and just make sure that we don't climb too high and then we're gon na go ahead and put the 134a in the system. Alright, I don't think it's gon na get too much better than this. I don't want to spend too much time on this guy.
It's slowly rising, but I guess I should technically make it. The decay test continue to catch us. Let's see what we're doing here. So decay rate is 0.6 point a it's kind of bouncing around dropping down 0.3.
You know I've kind of wonder if there's moisture in the nitrogen or the refrigerant who knows, but I think this is about as good as just gon na get mind you we are at 378 microns, so I mean technically from the looks of it. It kind of looks like it's still got some kind of non-condensibles or moisture in there, but um, I'm not an expert, but I mean it's just a gradual rise and it kind of looks like it's tapering off to me. So we're gon na call this and go ed and charge this guy with 134. You know so we have a clean dry system, everything's zeroed out I've purged all the way up to here, and I slowly had it cracked.
While I was putting it on so that way, it's not getting any air into the system, we're gon na zero out and we're gon na start with the factory charge of a hundred and thirteen grams that the R to 90 hat we'll put a hundred and thirteen Grams of 134a and then we'll see how the system operates and then we'll go from there. We got a zero this guy out, though, because it's kind of bouncing around okay, so we're charging on the high side. Let's start see it's ten increments of ten, so you're not going to see the whole hundred and thirteen again. 100 110 we're gon na have to go 100 and 20 and stop because it's the increments that it does it in so we're at 120 grams.
We're gon na go ahead and start this guy up and see what happens yeah. I can go ahead and take off the mic on gauge systems under pressure. Now that way we didn't introduce any unwanted, moisture or air into the system. I'm gon na put this guy on here, alright, so this is kind of bouncing around, but I went ahead and moved it over to the suction line, so it still has the measured refrigerant we put in there. Our box temp right now is 47 degrees. Let's go through our numbers, it's been running for about two minutes, so outdoor ambient 68 superheat is extremely high. Sub cooling is non-existent, suction moon and we need to go ahead and set some metrics and come up with. I need to input the evaporator temperature or the evaporator TD, like we had on the other one, so I'm gon na do that real, quick, okay, I've got my targets in there we were running a 30 degree, evaporator TD and about a 25 degree condenser tdys, give Or take a little bit there, so that's what we're trying to mimic right now, but obviously we have no sub cooling.
So what that means is: is that we're feeding vapour to our expansion valve, so we have to get that sub cooling number up. I'm gon na aim for about 10 degrees sub cooling in hopes that it brings my superheat down to so we're at about 120 110 grams. So we're just going to add a little bit more and see what we have to add to get our numbers about where they need to be. Alright, it's been a few minutes.
I've added some refrigerant, I'm currently at 330 grams, so mind you, I've gone way over the recommended amount of our 290 of refrigerant for the system, and that is just trying to get this thing to have some sub cooling so currently, where I'm at right. Now. We currently have a 15 degree, condenser TD, we're aiming for a little bit higher and we have an 11 degree evaporator today. We're definitely aiming for higher on that one.
So let's go ahead and go back on over to these numbers and look and see my box. Temp is 41 degrees all right. Our air temp is about 68 degrees, but look at I. I still have point five degrees, subcooling one degree superheat, so we're flooding back to our compressor right now, but the problem is with that lowest sub cooling we're still likely not feeding liquid refrigerant, we're still feeding some vapor to that expansion valve okay and look at our Targets based off of our condenser and evaporator TD from the operating our 290 system were way above our numbers on our targets.
Now this is kind of getting a little bit closer to what I would expect a or Malay operating r134a system. As far as the pressures go, but I'm trying to look at temperatures and the saturation temperatures and my subcooling number and my super heat number - you know everything's kind of out of whack here. If you look at this - and this in my opinion, is because this system was not designed for r134a, if you pay, attention are 290 condenser. If you look at a comparable r134a condenser, the amount of heat rejection capabilities that that condenser has is a lot bigger.
The condenser tubes are a lot smaller. This is, this, isn't even quarter inch. I don't think I think this is something smaller than quarter inch and look at it's just a single. Actually, it's only two passes through the condenser, but you know the the condenser smaller the evaporator, smaller, the compressor smaller so by putting 134a in the system. In my opinion, it's not working alright and you know - yes, I'm sure it. We are getting some cooling and it is cooling, but it's not right and in my opinion, it's not safe all right. We are not the engineers that made this box. In my opinion, we can't go just dumping refrigerant into this, just because we think that someone on Facebook - or something like that, told us that yeah you can take out our 290 input.
134 aan. Alright, the simple fact that we had to put in more than double the amount of the manufacturer's suggested refrigerant with r134a alone sounds like a safety issue to me. I could only imagine in the summertime, what's gon na happen when they get a really hot kitchen, now granted this units not meant to operate in the outdoors, but this, in my opinion, is proving my point that you cannot put 134a safely in an r2 90 system. Yes, you can just keep adding gas and it might work, but is it right? No, not, in my opinion, I'm going to keep this test going and we're gon na keep these numbers going and see what we can get to all right.
We are at 520 grams. Now is how much I've had to add to get my sub cooling close, and I don't want to overshoot my target so I'm currently at 9 degrees. It's kind of bouncing around mind you that sub cooling number is going to change as the expansion valve opens and closes one degree of evaporator superheat. That is not compressor supreme.
My compressor is ice-cold right now, because we are flooding refrigerant back to it. So the refrigerant, the evaporator, in my opinion, is not big enough in the expansion table is not sized correctly to boil off all the refrigerant needed to give us the sub coin. I mean it's just it's just a hot mess. This whole thing: it's never.
I mean you're, never gon na. It's just not kind of work right. Alright, so I'm not gon na add any more refrigerant, we're at nine point, eight degrees, subcooling and we're watching the system. Now, just looking at the pressures, it doesn't look horrendous, but I don't I'm not so concerned about the pressures on looking at the evaporator temperatures and looking at the performance.
Looking at the sub cooling, look at my evaporator super heat to low. Let's look at our condenser TVs right now, it's going over here. My box, temp, is at 41 degrees. Condenser TD is 14 degrees.
Evaporator TV has eight degrees, so nowhere near the TDS of the are 290 and the condenser TD. Remember that's going to be your efficiency in a nutshell, because, where we that's the ability to reject all that heat out of the condenser with the TD that it was with the our 290 and then the heat transfer capability with the our 290 on the evaporator TD. So if we can't match those numbers, the efficiency is going down the drain. And again I am NOT a scientist guys, I'm just a dumb guy. That just is just working this out. I don't know all the super technical, crazy terms or anything, but I mean this to me just adds up that it doesn't work again, I'm still, in my opinion, proving that this is not a safe and good practice to do. I'm gon na call this tail or this. You know this tested.
It's it's. It's failed it's. This is not working. It's not safe.
Do not try. This absolutely do not try this. I am in a controlled environment and this refrigerator I mean you with your your tempting fate. What is the big deal about using 134a? I mean our 290.
It's really not that big of a deal don't be afraid of it. The system was designed for it. Now. I'm sure there's gon na be people saying well, you should used r22 or whatever.
The reason why I use 134a was because the majority of the people there on the Facebook groups and commenting say that they drop in 134a or they heard you can drop in 1:30. For a you know, once you remove the are 290, and no you can't this is not proven. This is not safe. Look at the original factory charge was a hundred and thirteen grams of our 290 and I have put 510 grams to get myself somewhat close to the sub cooling number that I had and but look at my superheat when I do that, I mean this is just This is not good, do not do it.
Look at our condenser here so pretty much. The same view same color scheme to me doesn't look like it looks like this. Condenser is just not being able to reject the heat. It's kind of hard to exactly tell what's going on here I mean I know that we're overloading this condenser with refrigerant right now, all right! Last but not least, let's go ahead and look at our power consumption on this bad boy.
Let me get this guy back in here and 0.40 kilowatts 5.26 amps. This thing is still at 48 degrees and I am still at 24 minutes. So this thing isn't even dropping intent, barely so alright. This just concludes this just isn't: gon na work, I'm gon na leave it running just for giggles.
Let it run for a couple days and see what happens but yeah um. It's not working okay, so the experiment was simply to take our 290 out of the equation. Put 134 a in the system and see what would happen and exactly what I expected to happen happened. It doesn't work, okay, sure you can remove some refrigerant and you will get some cooling, I'm sure in some way or another.
You can make it work, but it will not be right and in my opinion it will be dangerous. Okay. The reason why I think it's dangerous is because we're having to put way more refrigerant than is required. Then then, what the system was designed for.
Okay, the components in the system aren't meant to handle that refrigerant. It just sounds like a walking disaster, okay, and I believe that I pretty much proved it with the numbers. You know I started with the factory charge of our 290, with the 134a put the hundred and thirteen grams in there, and it obviously wasn't doing anything. So then, I added refrigerant slowly trying to obtain the vital signs numbers that the system was performing with with the our 290. Okay again, I kind of mentioned it in the video. But the reason why I did this is because I see an overwhelming what I consider to be a ridiculous amount of people saying that you can simply remove our 290 input 134a in the system. Okay - and I think I've disproved that now. I'm sure that someone like I said, can go ahead and put 134 a in and it might work half-ass, but it's not gon na work correctly and you're.
Setting yourself up for a major issue. I mean, I don't think anything's gon na explode, but certainly it's not working correctly. I imagine that you're gon na reduce the amount of compressor life. You know with my unit running as low as superheat as it is.
I'm sure that we're going to wash the oil out of that compressor and create some problems, we're gon na end up ruining the compressor eventually, okay, so for the customers sake, let's just go back with our 290. What belongs in the unit? Don't try to be a engineer. Okay. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these couple things I want to mention number one.
I am part of a group of YouTube creators that has created a discord server on this particular discord server. It's just a community. It's a way to continue the conversation that goes on in the comments section and in the live chat section of a live stream, okay, but it doesn't have to be during a live stream. There's going to be a link in the top of the the video show notes for the particular discord server.
If you guys are interested in communicating with myself and the other creators, okay, there's a bunch of other creators that happen to be. You know my my fake internet friends, right that you know I communicate with on a regular. We all kind of set this up together, and it's just a way for us to make ourselves available to talk to people so check it out. If you just click the link, it'll download, the app and all that good, stuff and you'll be directed, you feel free to ask questions.
Also. I am starting a new YouTube channel. I've been mentioning it for a while. It's HVAC our tools, the link to that will be in the show notes of this video to really appreciate a follow.
I'm going to start uploading to that very soon. I'm sure this one, this video is gon na. You know raise a lot of questions, bring them on. Let's talk about it.
Send me questions emails comments. I do live streams Monday evenings at 5:00 p.m. Pacific time work for meeting so long as I can get off work I'll, be there to do the livestream and we'll talk about this stuff. Okay, alright yeah! I guess that's it we'll catch you guys on the next. One: okay:.
Very good video, informative, that said, not too impressed with R290 systems, have seen more compressors fail than equivalent R134A systems. When it happens, I usually load the R290 components onto my horse and buggy cart and switch up everything to make it work.
Try R600 with 134a and be prepared for a show
Bad experiment. TXV has to be compatible with the refrigerant you are using. Put a 134A txv in it then at least you could obtain proper superheat. The way you did this experiment is like replacing R22 in an air conditioner that has a R22 TXV with 134a of course the superheat will not be right.
You obviously arent a very good or knowledgeable refer mechanic. Let's follow the science, with no subcooling and no superheat then that proves the expansion valve needed adjusting for the 134a or, replacing with a 134a valve. You could put 404a and as long as you use the right valve it will meter correctly. But, going to something like 404a, its too much capacity for that box but it proves about the metering device.
You're one of those booksmart but little real world experience mechanics, all the high dollar fancy equipment but can't diagnose an improper expansion device.
Tx valve adjustment?
Tnx for show this. Good complained. If you wil try it from r410a to R32 I really want to see. R410a wat we use a long time is bad for environment. 2.088/0,675 GWP. That’s a big difference. (R410a = 50% R32/ 50% R125)
Pressure and temperature are close. I never try it but sometimes when my R410a is empty I’m think about it to replace the gas with R32.
R-12 is the closest match but still not right on. 290 is in a class by itself.
A brand new, working refrigerator that the customer asked you to throw out for them? Huh? Service area Barrhaven??
I seen this come up on the suggested feeds, ironically, I used R290 to fill up an old R12 system in an 80's olds and it still hasn't leaked out. It may not be the right thing but….. What if you scrapped out the r290 system and dropped in a r134 unit in its place with the required accessories… Could it work? Service area Orleans??
👍👍👍👍👍 Are you in Ottawa ?
May an engineer drop in here? Here are the two critical property differences between the refrigerants, density (affects the charge weight) and viscosity (affects the expansion device) R290 density 36.2 lbs/ft^3 , Viscosity 0.0074 centipoises. R134a liquid density 75.29 lb/ft³ Viscosity 0.202 centipoises.
The density can be compensated by a simple ratio because you want the same volume of refrigerant in the system. 113 grams of R290 = 75.29/36.2 = 235 grams of R134a. Here is a place where an old fashioned charging cylinder is perfect. Simply use the R134a scale.
The viscosity is more problematic. R134a is 27 times as viscous as R290. If that box has a fixed expansion device then there is your problem. The evaporator is grossly starved for liquid. If a TXV then it MIGHT be adjustable enough to handle the difference in viscosity. It may take a TXV with a larger orifice.
I've done a couple of these change-outs, both TXVs and in both cases, the TXV had a large enough orifice to handle the additional flow.
It's funny to see how the industry attitude toward flammable refrigerants has changed as the flow of big money Back in the early 90s (mostly) George Goble of Perdue U and I were working on a drop-in for R12. The result was R406a, for which George got a patent. It's a tercentenary blend which uses a little propane to keep the mineral oil flowing. I don't recall the amount but I think it was about 5%. The industry had a sh*t-fit because this product threatened their anticipated lucrative retrofit business. It had to be banned because it was FLAMMABLE (it isn't). We jumped through all the hoops (including getting EPA permission to release R12 and had a fire company standing by) to demonstrate that a normal mix of R12 and mineral oil is highly flammable when expelled under pressure, such as in a car wreck. None of that mattered. MACS openly pressured the EPA to withhold approval for over 3 years until the Big Boys could catch up.
So now hydrocarbons are the darlings of the industry. How times change with the money flow.
Here's another one to ponder. Canned air is R134a. One can use (discharge) it with impunity. Yet, if the very same chemical is in an HVAC system, every ounce must be recovered. Hmmmm. Are you in Barrhaven ?
Local tech says he does this all the time .🙄no problem
Great video!
Hi dear sir:what about if we do vise versa,charge a sistem with R290 which is designed for R134a?do you have this experience?
i been charging those r290 for years now 30 above ambient of r290 chart been working great did 100s of uints now usually look lower then r22 pressures. controlers and txv outlet leaking only problems been having on them so far.
Excellent you made it as safe as you can .you tried your best . 7/20/2021
I mean with an r290 expansion vavle it won't work id bet with you threw a r134a vavle in it you could get it to work Are you in Nepean ?
Question, would you recommend some sort of training before working on a R290 system? I understand it’s propane and that it is flammable obviously, but was Wondering if some formal training is warranted. Thanks.
The expansion valve isn't going to allow for the refrig change. It still thinks theres R290 in the system. I'd like to see it tested with right expansion valve or cap tube.
You did a good job on this video. Good explanation and demonstration of a good understanding of the fundamentals. Thank you!
Saya sdh mengganti 290 dengan 134.., dan saya sdh mengganti oli,tapi hanya bertahan 1 bulan.. compresor mati.. 😭
Saya sangat setuju dengan video anda # from indonesia..
I cant Unterstand why People are afraid of a bit of r290 in their fridge or AC. I mean i didnt heard anyone crying because they had a big tank of natural gas in the back of their car to fire the Engine.. Are you in Kanata ?
Divide your grams by 28 to convert to ounces….says the stubborn American technician🤣🤣🤣🤣 my scale won't go grams
How can u say u don't know what you are doing u do know what you are doing u don't know everything but u do know what you are doing on systems u know about
I mean, if you're not trying to do rock solid engineering, you can do lots of things. I put hydrocarbon refrigerant (r600) in my car as a replacement for the r134a. It works quite well, and I feel a lot less guilty about not fixing the slow leak 🤣
Propane uses mineral oil, 134a uses polyether oil similar to brake fluid. Mixing them will kill your compressor.
Most units use R404A
If the unit is brand new wonder why the restaurant didn't want it. Like was it a faulty product or what.
How about to put a new compressor Service area Kanata??
There’s a date printed on my 134a cylinder. Do you know what the date represents?
Mine says: 01-08-2021
Would have liked to see you adjust the txv to get a better superheat. Also how were the compressor amps? I noticed you took Amp draw from entire unit not just compressor.
Wow, glad to see this; now I don't have to try it!.
What about R600a as a substitute for R290? Butane vs Propane?
This is why those of us with old cars who once had R12 in them and had to convert to R134a don't get the same cooling we used to and HATE IT!! You need more condenser area for it to work effectively and the old tube and fin condensers don't cut it. The 6mm piccolo styles do work much better but the parallel flow is the best. I just don't like how they can't be flushed plus depending on the car, you may need to have one made special order which isn't cheap.
Please tell us. Why did the owner want you to dispose of a brand new unit???
It is because r134a is a lower pressure refrigerant than r290 refrigerant it should work fine and be safe I've used r290 in a 134a system and it works great
I could see replacing 290 with 22 due to it's TP similarities.
How mach back pis 290 deer freezer
Friend, what my low and high psi should be after charging a290 freezer unit with capillary tube .after turning it on at room temperature ? Thanks
What about 407c replacing 22 even though oils aren't compatible? Are you in Orleans ?
An idea for a dumb experiment, try using air or nitrogen as refrigerant
Why did they need to scrap a brand new refrigerator?
Nice demo, I love this stuff….
Wow, isn't it weird that in the 1900s 🤣, Servel made full size propane fired absorption household refrigerators (like RV's use), and even residential AC package units for remote homes, worked on only one, and now we're back to propane, but not as the flame source which produces the dreaded CO2, but rather propane as the actual refrigerant gas inside the system yikes!. "may you live in strange times".
47 year ACR&H commercial field service tech and C22/38 contractor now retired. Wow used to even blow out condenser coils with R-12 or 22 when my CO2 bottle ran out damn.
🤣 😷 🤣 🙄
Now if you'll excuse, I must buy even more GameStop stock 😅🤔🤣
Discord link doesnt work
When you compare the two refrigerants their ability to transfer heat is different. 134a will always require a larger condenser area. The evaporator needs to sized differently as well. In some cases, you may need to flood the evaporator more to get the heat transfer. In that case, I would think an accumulator may be needed. As you are pointing out, you can't just go and change refrigerants without the proper modifications to the system. They are truly designed for the application and the refrigerant. I don't know about it being unsafe to use the 134a in your experiment, but it certainly will cause component failure down the line. So yes! Don't try to re-engineer these systems unless you really know what you're doing.
I love my new redfish meter
If change compressor with 134a design new to install it for this equipment with r290 design will it work?
Great video man. If you replace compressor with r290 to 134a would it work right?
What's the box your using to hold R290 can…Holding that can upside down all the time sucks that would be nice to have
I bet the few "dislikes" on your video are the ones who will continue claiming "their" R134A conversions from R290 actually work LOL! Service area Ottawa??