This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Today's service calls on a package unit. That's not working had another service technician, doing a preventive maintenance here and he informed me that the unit wasn't working right. He said it had a burnt contactor.

He went and replaced a contact her, but then he said yeah the compressors not running right, something's funky. So I just wanted to come into a second opinion: go through the unit and see what we can figure out, hoping the unit up. Nothing out of the ordinary electrical looks fine, obviously a new contactor. So I turn the unit on.

I don't have a call yet I'm gon na go ahead and jump it out. So I can, you know, give myself a call for cooling okay, so I'm going to go ahead and jump the unit out and get it running. So I'm just going to go from R to y1 and we are running now. The refrigerant pressures look decent for it, starting up about 88 degrees, shattering contactor.

It's like something. I think that my my manifold camera scared me for a minute started, chattering and then and then there was a leak, but this had just vibrated loose. So, okay, we'll get that back on and we'll get it turned back on, but it sounded like we had some sort of chattering going on so that wasn't good, we'll turn it back on and see what we can figure out here. So we're back up and running again we really need to do is test voltage.

We know we have 24 volts, so I'm holding it in right now, so it doesn't shatter we're not going off on low pressure, we're not going off on height. Well, it doesn't have a high pressure, actually doesn't have a low pressure. It has a loss of charge, switch or a high pressure control, but neither of those is too low right now interesting, but I have to hold the contact you're in and it's turning on and off on and off. Let's get a meter on there to see if we can see the voltage drop, so I'm holding the contactor in - and I have my meter leads on there and we have zero volts at the moment and then, when I pull my screwdriver out, it turns off and Then turns on and off so something's dropping the power, the power we got to figure out where it's going and then we need to test the components.

The power should be going into the pressure controls depending on. If this one has an economizer, it might run through the economizer first. So we'll check that out. I haven't looked at the economizer section, but I think it might be disconnected because if we follow, I haven't jumped to Y one.

So if we follow Y one down goes to this and I haven't looked at a schematic yet then it goes down to the black wires. The black wires go to the high pressure control. It comes out of that. I already traced.

It back goes into the loss of charge switch, which is on the liquid line and then comes out of that and goes directly up to here. So we could do some easy troubleshooting. My theory is: is that one of these pressure controls is the problem. Now I will not leave a pressure control disconnected, but what I can do is go ahead and bypass them for troubleshooting sake and see if we can pinpoint, because it's not a direct short, I'm not worried about bypassing the control and I've also verified that it's not Low uncharged and it's not high in pressure, so this is just temporary for diagnosis.

I'm gon na bypass these turn it back on and basically just bypass them one at a time and see where the problem lies or if it continues, it's always a possibility. It's a transformer issue, but I don't think that's the case because I have the correct voltage, but it's always a possibility, so we're gon na start with the pressure controls first. So what I did the first one is we're pulling the high-pressure control out of the circuit. So there's already a wire nut here and it goes down and I went ahead and went directly into the low-pressure control.

And then I mean loss of charge, switch and then came out of the loss of charge switch and it's going directly up to the contactor. So the high-pressure controls, right here and out of the circuit for the moment and we're gon na go ahead and turn the system back on and see if we still get our chattering problem turn the system back on so again, we're jumped from R to y1, just Bypassing the thermostat, the end or blower motor turned on so far so good. We're gon na watch it for a few minutes, and if we don't get the chattering, then what I'm gon na do is I'm going to go ahead and unhook the loss of charge switch and go ahead and hook up the high-pressure control and see if we have, If I can duplicate the issue with just the high pressure control based off of the unit readings and I'll pull those up right now, it kind of looks like we might have an overcharge situation with a plug fixed orphis metering device, because our subcooling is rather high And our head pressures rather high suction pressure's a little bit low and will run in a low evaporator temperature, superheats also high. So to me it indicates that we might have a restricted metering device and someone has possibly overcharged the unit which would help us to figure out why we might have a bad high pressure control if the unit is constantly turning on and off, because there is no Lockout on this unit, there's no compressor lockout board.

So in theory, if it went off on high pressure, it might go on off on off on off on off and potentially damage the pressure control. You know it's hard to say exactly what could have happened here. So I'm gon na, let it operate it kind of seems like good right now. It's not tripping it again and it had tripped it by then.

So I'm gon na go ahead and turn it off hook up the high pressure control and see if we can get it to do the same thing now I have just the high pressure control hooked up and I took the loss of charge switch out of the Picture and we're gon na go and turn it on see. If we have our intermittent electrical issues there, let it run for a minute. So our problem is our high pressure control, so the high pressure control is something's weak inside of it. It's right here.

It's welded in pressure control. I try to think of a way. I could do this and maybe get them cool, and I guess I can put a control over there on a service tee. I could probably do that and then run power.

If I have one see, I actually have a manual reset pressure control. I can do that that'll be better since there's no compressor lockout board. So what we're going to do is I'm going to put in a low pressure and a high-pressure control we're going to mount them on these with service tees because carrier uses. We obviously need a high pressure control, but then we also need a lot.

These a loss of charge, switch and the loss of charge switch doesn't do a whole lot when you have a plugged up metering device. So I'm going to get this one up and running and quote well, I'm gon na double-check that the metering device is plugged up, which I think it is so, if that's the case, I'd rather have a low pressure control on here. So that way, if it ever got low enough, it would shut down the unit. So that's what we're going to do we're going to use these service tees, probably something like that.

Something like that! Maybe is my thought, or maybe something like that. These service tees right here they have a Schrader depressor inside of them, so we'll make sure that there's a Schrader on both of them like that. So there's a straight there's, not a straighter there, but there is there. So we'll make sure we put a Schrader in both and then the pressure control has a Schrader depressor inside of it.

So but a drop a night log on here right on the threads, also put it on the mating surface of the flare-nut on that Schrader depressor. Whatever tool write it on, I'm gon na have my wrenches ready it's gon na spray a little bit, but it's okay, actually gon na get a smaller range. I actually have a smaller well, so I'm gon na do use the leverage of the two wrenches. Writing it down kind of like to go up a little bit.

Finer problem is that I don't want to now. The high pressure is going to go that way. Low pressure is going to go here, we're going to do the same thing, make sure the Schrader's are in tight a little bit of nylon and the night log is going to go like right up in there where the flare-nut spins on it. Sorry, it's going to go right up in there where the flare-nut spins on it.

We just use it to kind of lubricate it. We put some dialogue on the glass there, tighten it on okay, nice and tight good to go. Now we can screw the question control time, so I have a manual reset high-pressure control that cuts out at 410 psi and then I have a low-pressure control right here: cut out 35 psi cut in 60 psi! That's perfect for air conditioning with our 22 inside of there it's probably hard to see, but there's a Schrader depressor dialogue on the rent. My gloves my precious we'll route, the wires over them getting hit by the fan motor.

Let's do our low-pressure control now and using leverage to make sure that you don't throughout the we always back the wrenches up with okay. Now I just need to get the control wiring over to the other side, we'll be able to hook this guy up, go ahead and hook up my pressure probes back up to this guy. Take all my stuff over to the other side right. So here's my wiring you're gon na have to figure out a way to secure this to other wiring, so that way it doesn't get hit by the condenser fan motors.

So what we're going to do is we're going to go from one to the other they're going to be tied in together in series, okay and then essentially, we need to tie these in or other wiring there's one there's another, and then we just got a zip Tie everything up so it's safe and secure, not a fan of tying high voltage to low voltage, but in this instance we don't really have a choice, not really a good way to do it, and it's not like it's a long run. So if this was a long run with data cables, I'd be worried about it, but you could potentially have feedback issues, but I don't think we're going to have that. So I'm just cleaning up the wiring in here right now eliminate any headings that way. There's nothing unsafe happening can't handle I'm kind of a freak.

You guys know that, but these zip ties have the screw holes and I screw holes driving me nuts. I don't like of myself. I got to make them so they're, not sticking out. This is our high voltage coming from the disconnect switch, I'm going to just kind of clean up something off, not a great situation, but you know it is what it is.

Okay, this is a thermostat, some sort, okay and I think we're ready to turn it on and see what happens. Okay, so I think we're safe. We can go and turn the power switch back on. Endor blower turned on I'm going to go ahead and jump out.

The thermostat well one my two we'll go ahead and pull up the pressure probes and see how it's doing watch it for a little while make sure we don't get that chattering anymore, all right, so my unit has been running for a few minutes. Now you can see we have a pretty high head pressure. It's funny. My suction pressure is coming up a little bit, but my air flow is low, which again is one of those things I'll check the blower wheel.

But let's scroll over, we have, you know 20-something degree TD 26, which is a little bit high, indicating low airflow, possibly outdoor air temp is actually a little bit warmer it's about 94. Now let me change that warming up as we go that doesn't fix everything, but so our superheats a little on the high side, our sub-points, on the border of being high. We have high head pressure, let's see what measure quick says: esra quake is saying there might be a restriction in the Lakewood line, which I believe, but it is not frosting. It might just be a slight restriction.

The other thing i want to check is i'm gon na go ahead and split the condenser just to verify it's not dirty the condensers. A little beat up as far as the fins go. It's not horrible, though, but let's see if it's dirty inside, so i'm gon na pop the top real quick just a little bit turn it off and split that condenser just to verify it's not too dirty inside. So to split it.

We just pull this support bar right here off and then just kind of pry it up a little bit without bending anything you can get in there. The condenser is actually clean. I can see light through it. I don't know if the cameras going to show it, but I can see light through the condenser and I can see light through this one.

So it's not even dirty I can go in here to down in there. I know the cameras probably not shown it too. Well, but it's not dirty it's a clean condenser. I can see right through it.

So that's not the problem. I mean it does have a little bit of condensed or fin damage over here, but it's not going to cause that much of a head pressure issue. It'll. Do something, but it's not horrendous, so yeah, I'm gon na open up the blower check out the blower real quick, so I'm investigating the blower.

It really isn't that dirty. Actually, it's pretty clean and I went ahead and pulled the heat exchanger cover because I figure big-picture diagnosis. Look at that and I can actually see up into the blower and know it's nothing about. It's got some dust on it.

I'm doing a visual on the heat. Exchanger just to see what's going on with that, but the interesting thing is: I do have some room to close down my pulley to speed this up to get some more airflow. So if I have room in the amperage the the running amps of the unit, then I can go ahead or of the blower motor. Then I can go ahead and close this pulley down and speed it up and get some more air flow and maybe solve some of my airflow issues there.

This looks like the factory pulley. It's usually about a four and a half inch pulley on these units or adjustable sheave, whatever you want to call it. So I'm going to go ahead and finish doing a visual on this heat exchanger. It definitely has some high temperature issues down in here, and these things are notorious for cracking, especially when we have poor air flow, but so far I haven't seen any holes, but I'm just doing a visual on it.

I love all the roofer. Like always, does this crap, I don't know what kind of roofer they use or who it is, but the leaks not at the AC, stupid, jeez man look at all this. I got it. I got to pull this panel off and it's got mastic and silicone on it, like Henry's roof tar.

What the flip it's gon na leak when I'm done, because I'm gon na bend the crap out of the panel trying to get it off. It's guys are idiots. Look at this mess yeah! That's the leak dummy I like how this one's leaking, but all the other units aren't they don't got no mastic on those. I just I don't know what it is with roofers man, I shouldn't say all of them, because it's not all you guys, but some of them are idiots.

You got to give me that much credit when you're checking these heat exchangers obviously look for giant cracks, but then also follow the seam with like a screwdriver and just just lightly, give it pressure and if it's weak, it'll just push right through. But this one. No nice and strong - and let me tell you guys, don't think I'm making a hole if that is a weak seam. You need to push it through because it's a failed heat exchanger, but no I'm running on the seam right now and it's not doing anything.

You see like this is strong. I'm pushing nothing's happened and not even scratched, so anything that you think is weak, give it a push with a screwdriver and if it goes through, then you know you know that's a problem, but I'm really not seeing any problems on this definitely gon na go sooner Than later, but - and I mean all the way down in there too - I don't - I don't see - any cracks definitely see some spots, but I'm gon na keep looking so I pulled the jumper turned it on the indoor blower motors allowed to run 5.2 amps and we're Running 3.7, so I'm gon na go ahead and close that pulley down as far as I can get as much air flow out of it as possible, so you can see that the pulley has been opened up or the adjustable sheave. Whatever you want to call. It has been opened up, so we're gon na close it down and potentially get some more airflow out of this guy.

So I just loosen the setscrew and then pay attention to where it's at and count the turns, and I'm gon na have to use two hands. But I'm gon na turn it and close the pulley down, so I was able to close it four turns which is probably getting to being too much, but I'm gon na go ahead and do it. I got to adjust the belt cuz. It's gon na be way too tight now and put it on and then amp it out and see where we're at and then adjust from there.

So because I closed down the pulley, the belt is riding further out. Therefore it would have been way too tight. So what I did was I in loosen two four motor bolts move the whole motor up put the belt on set it to the right tension, we're good now and I'm gon na go and turn it on and check. The am draw now see we're at remember.

We're allowed to run 5.2 and we'll ride at just under five amps with the pulley closed all the way down, so we're good we're getting the most airflow out of this unit as possible. So now we're gon na go ahead and put the jumper back on and check the pressures again and see if our airflow is corrected on measure quick and if we have a better TD. So our system is running we're gon na, let it stabilize out because it just turned on so it's going to take a few minutes, we're gon na, let it sit and I'll come back to it. Air flows a little bit better.

It's definitely within range. Now we're kind of should be out about 6:00. There are 3,000 CFM's, but it's a little bit closer. I'm sorry, 2400 CFM's is what we should have, so our temperature splits a lot better.

We're still running a little high on our super heat and a little high on our sub cooling head pressures still high. Let's see what measure quick has to say overcharged and a restriction, which is my thoughts exactly the subcooling. The high head pressure makes me think that we've got a restricted metering device on this guy and we know the condenser is not dirty okay, so, as I showed you guys, I measure quick. I corrected the airflow as best as possible and I'm leaning towards a restriction and an overcharge and that's kind of what can measure quick confirm if I go inside here I don't see frosting up on the metering devices back then, but I definitely think that's going on Here we've got an issue with that metering device, so we're gon na go ahead and wrap this up.

I'm gon na leave it running now that we got those pressure controls on there and we'll submit a quote to the customer. So I like to start off these service calls the same. Every single time is, you know, step back and look at the big picture. I know I say that all the time, but it really does help you to diagnose and to be thorough.

In your diagnosis I initially found, and and again we had another technician out here, doing a preventive maintenance and he found some issues. We had a burnt contactor. He went ahead and replaced the contactor, but then realized there was more issues, so I wanted to come out and go through the unit. What I found was that the contactor was likely burnt, because the pressure control was bad and it was the high pressure control.

So it was basically short cycling. The unit on off on off on off it burnt up the contactor once he had replaced the contactor. He saw the same issue and that's when I came in so I systematically went through kind of figured out the wiring isolated. The pressure controls hooked them up one at a time found the issue went ahead and replaced both the pressure controls, because I was gon na be in there anyways and I did a quick method.

I took a shortcut instead of recovering the charge and taking all the refrigerant out and braising in new pressure controls. I just went ahead and used swivel T's did it hot basically. So while there was still pressure in the system, I just screwed on the swivel T's, because the new pressure controls that I used had Schrader depressors inside of them, so I was able to leave the Schrader's in there. That is, you know something that I do every once in a while.

You know in a perfect world I'd like to, I didn't recover the charge, but this was just a diagnosis. I didn't want to go that far and in all honesty, even if I make the the permanent repair I'll, probably just leave these controls on, I may take the swivel tees off if I ever end up recovering the charge and just putting on normal Schrader's wear the Old pressure controls are, that would probably be my preferred method, but I would still put mechanical pressure controls on there that we could twist off and replace in the future if they ever failed again. So, but then again I didn't just stop there. You go through the whole system.

I found some issues. The unit had some airflow issues, which I corrected as best as possible. The unit also has a restriction, a slight restriction and we are running higher than normal head pressure, higher subcooling high superheat, all that good stuff. So at this point I submitted a quote to the customer and what my quote is gon na entail is going ahead and replacing the fixed orifice metering device.

It's an entire header on these units. It's going to be going ahead and straightening out that condenser, okay, taking those fins a little bit, that's messed up and straightening those out we're gon na recover, we're gon na put in new refrigerant into this system and then we're gon na start. It back up obviously put liquid line dryers. You know all that good stuff and then obviously start the system back up.

I would go back in with our 22 refrigerant at this time the customer actually approved the quote, but they told me that they want to wait. Essentially, until January or February, when they're new period starts or whatever right now we're going it's october right now, so we're in the tail end of the cooling season, so they basically said hey. Is it working? I said yes, it is, there's always a possibility. We could have compressor damaged if we let it run, but they chose to keep it like that for now and they said they want to do it, but they just want to wait until January or February.

So I'll revisit this quote see if they want to continue with the repair, but for now you know we just let it be, and I I make the customer completely aware when they choose not to repair, you know hey. Is it still working? Yes, it is but here's the things that can happen and they understand that. But for them you know that's just how things work. Sometimes you know they've got a budget.

They've got to work within and you know even it even to them to make their budget to keep their shareholders happy at this point in time. Right now they understand you know they may have to change a compressor two months from now, but for them that's just the way they're. They accept that, because they'd rather spend that money, then to keep shareholders happy and different things like that. It's just that whole game.

They have to play. You know when you go into the chain, restaurants and stuff like that, so guys. I really really appreciate you taking the time to watch these videos, especially watching them till the end here to the recaps. Do me a favor leave me some feedback.

Let me know how you would have done it differently, what you would have changed. You know, I'm always looking to improve my troubleshooting skills, I'm always looking for feedback. If you guys have any questions, don't hesitate to ask them. Remember that I do live streams tentatively Monday evenings at 5 p.m.

Pacific time I mean tentatively and that as long as work is permitting, because sometimes I get busy with work - and I can't do the stream, but you know usually try to get to him - usually have Been doing pretty good cross our fingers? Okay, so yeah, send me some questions. Send me some emails, all that good stuff I'll try to get to it other than that we will catch you guys on the next one. Okay.