How can you tell if an HVAC system is actually removing or adding the amount of heat it's supposed to? In this video, we use two Testo 605i thermo-hygrometers on a Carrier Infinity system and demonstrate just that. We also use the Testo Smart Probes App for displaying and interpreting measurements.
First of all, you need to calibrate the thermo-hygrometers against each other. You should also check the manufacturer's literature to see exactly what your desired measurements are. Make sure you know your CFM and profile your equipment according to the proper load conditions in the Smart Probes App to receive accurate readings and interpretations.
You'll want to place your probes in the return airstream to grab data. If you place your probe too close to the air handler, you can hit hot or cold spots that negatively affect your reading. Keep other factors in mind when determining your capacity, such as line length, indoor load conditions, and outdoor load conditions, as those can all impact your capacity but NOT indicate a system malfunction.
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes, and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/.
Check out TruTech Tools at trutechtools.com.
First of all, you need to calibrate the thermo-hygrometers against each other. You should also check the manufacturer's literature to see exactly what your desired measurements are. Make sure you know your CFM and profile your equipment according to the proper load conditions in the Smart Probes App to receive accurate readings and interpretations.
You'll want to place your probes in the return airstream to grab data. If you place your probe too close to the air handler, you can hit hot or cold spots that negatively affect your reading. Keep other factors in mind when determining your capacity, such as line length, indoor load conditions, and outdoor load conditions, as those can all impact your capacity but NOT indicate a system malfunction.
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes, and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/.
Check out TruTech Tools at trutechtools.com.
I am brian with hvac school hvac, school podcast and hvc our school comm. This video is being made in conjunction with true tech tools, comm and we're excited to bring it to you generally I'll say this is going to be a quick video, but this really will be a quick video and we're actually calculating something that would generally be considered Fairly difficult to calculate, which is the total cooling capacity of a piece of equipment, I'm going to be demonstrating how to use to test. Oh 6:05, I hydrometers in order to calculate system capacity fairly easily, but the first thing you want to do is make sure that they're calibrated close to each other you're going to need two of them and you want to check and make sure that they're within range. So doing this is pretty easy.
Measuring the capacity with the 605 is, but a couple things you're going to need to pay attention to you're going to need to have beforehand. You need to 6:05 eyes. You need to have your smart probes, app, open and then you're. Also going to need some expanded performance data for your particular piece of equipment, so that you know what, if what you're reading is correct or not, as you can see, we're reading very close right now, we're actually dead on with the temperatures of the two I have Them set up side by side.
You can actually edit the view. This is in the basic view, so you can actually edit the view and slide them around, but I like to keep them side to side. You can see that our relative humidities are actually one percentage point 0.9 percentage point different from each other within the tolerances and then here are wet bulb temperatures which are in point three, so they're close enough they're well within the tolerances. So now we're ready to go ahead and make our reading, but before we make our reading, we want to know what the system should be.
Reading I've gone ahead and pulled up our deep, my detailed cooling capacities for my particular system. My particular system is a 25 V na 848 condenser with a Fe for an F zero six air handler zero, zero, five air handler, and so I'm going to be in between these two capacities, because my outdoor temperature is in between eighty five degrees, Fahrenheit dry, Balban. 95 degrees, four hi dry bulb and I'm at max stage so high stage and my indoor temperature is close to 75. It's going to be more like 63 degrees, wet bulb, is 75 degrees, dry bulb and then that's where we come across.
So we're looking for between forty two thousand BTUs and forty five. So forty two point: seven nine and forty five point two eight. So this is our cooling and heating power menu. We started off in the basic View menu.
If you want to make adjustments, you always hit this little button down here at the bottom. That's where you can, edit your edit, your view in the basic view, but in the cooling and heating power view. This is where you would either edit your units of measure as you can see, or where you would actually configure the measurement. This is where you would enter CFM return, air or supply air just depends on how you're actually taking the reading, if you're, actually measuring the flow on the returners supply, say with a flow hood or you're using a vane anemometer or something you would want to enter In where you've measured this CFM and it compensates for the air volume based on the temperature of the air, this is my infinity touch, control and increasingly you're gon na find that controllers are going to give you your output CFM. So, as you can see, we're running 1211 CFM and one mistake I almost made is on the performance chart. It actually states that the BTUs are after 1400 CFM and because I had the system in comfort mode, it was producing significantly less than that. So I had to change the settings to efficiency mode so that way, I'm producing 1400 CFM's on a four-ton system, which is 350 CFM per ton. The reason why I place the probe below the filter is, if I place it above the filter, it would be line-of-sight to the evaporator coil, which could affect my reading in general, it's better to place the probe in the actual return riser or in the direct return.
If that's agreeable do that in my particular case, that return runs through the Attic behind here and that give me a false reading because of duct gains in the return itself. If I place it in the grill, so in order to read return, we're just gon na take out my media filter and I've made a little hook back here. So that way, this can actually hang in the return Airstream. Another thing to think about whenever you're placing the probe is to pray place, the probe in such a place that the air has a chance to kind of turn and mix before it's your probe all right in my mechanical room, I've got a interesting configuration where my Supply duct goes up, and then it comes back around so this one over here is actually supply got a plug here.
Of course, this is duct board construction. Here in Florida you can see there's my there's my probe. I'm gon na place this that way. The air flows through the probe here we go so now we're gon na watch this start to change.
If you place your probe too close to the air handler furnace itself, you can actually hit hot and cold pockets of air before the air as a chance to turn. So now I need to change the numbers in the app so that that way, it's reading the correct, CFM and you'll see how that affects my reading and see my BTUs per hour jumped way up. When I adjusted the CFM's now I just needed let it run a little longer again, because I had to shut it off and turn it back on in order to make that settings change. The actual reason reading is very easy to take it's just as easy to take it through the taking an air temperature split.
The trick is getting the correct CFM and in many cases we overthink this. For the modern, ECM blower variable speed blower, you can very easily look at the fan chart and really if your static pressure is anywhere between 0.1, all the way up to about 1 inch of static, most ECM motors will produce a set airflow output. You do have to look carefully at your manufactures instructions, though, to make sure that you're that you're actually reading the correct CFM, depending on the way that the air handler or the controls are set up. But once you look at that chart carefully and you find your CFM or whatever speed or mode you're running the system in it'll be fairly easy to plug that CFM in. If you have a control like the carrier, infinity touch control. Of course it's very easy because it gives you a real-time reno. So now you can see after about 20 minutes of runtime, that we are reading pretty much right at our rated capacity. 43 thousand BTUs fourteen hundred CFM.
This is a 4 ton system, high rated capacity for our conditions. It's going to be between forty two point: seven, nine and forty five point: two six thousand BTUs. So we're right in that zone of what we would expect. So we've got a system here that is working as expected.
Once you plug that see, if I'm reading into the software, then it does the rest of the work and it really makes it very easy for you. The only thing that you then have to do is read your expanded specifications in order to see what the capacity is of your system add the specific load conditions, because not only is your fourth own unit, almost certainly not 48 thousand BTUs. You have to know things like D rating for a line length map, specific air handler match indoor and outdoor load conditions. All these things will affect your output capacity and you don't want to think that there's something wrong with your system and really just functioning designed to function.
One thing that makes shock a lot of guys: is they see that high supply air relative humidity, but if you're not used to looking at supply or relative humidities, then you're not going to know that this is not that at normal. So you can see making capacity measurements with the 605. I is a pretty simple process. The challenging part is knowing your CFM and then looking through your data in order to make sure that it's actually producing the correct amount of capacity based on how the systems design.
But all in all, I think it's a good tool, and this process is something that I think every technician should have the tools to do and know how to do so. That way, you can prove especially, is Savior commissioning a new piece of equipment that you're actually delivering out of the appliance, the capacity that the customer purchased I'm Brian or this video is made in conjunction with true tech tools. You can find great tools, including these 6:05 eyes, at Tru tech tools. Comm use the offer code, gets cool for a great discount and check out hey, I'm Brian, with hvac school.
I'm making this video today in conjunction with okay. My phone just fell down.
I cannot thank you enough for this video. It is too often and too much amiss, the importance of these very details. I am currently facing a situation where the client and the service side (me) are at a stalemate: whether or not the equipment is producing as it should. I now have that boost of confidence to perform my duty to at least secure peace of mind regarding the equipment's actual performance. Thanks a million! Service area Orleans??
Excellent video
What part of florida?
Great video, but I wish you would explain how to get the btu calculation with out the Testo app. You can use any psycrometer with a chart from ASHRE for enthalpy per btu. And with a quick calculation figure out the btu even if you don’t have the testo equipment. Not trying to be negative, just thought it might be helpful to some that don’t have the equipment. It is also helpful to understand how you get those btu calcs.
Another video attempting to turn something VERY simple into rocket science. Get over it….its only air conditioning.
Not a Testo question, but I've always wondered since the iManifold app came out (and later, MeasureQuick) just exactly how those apps (seemingly) can calculate airflow AND capacity with just the supply and return air hygrometers. The hygrometer readings will give the supply and return enthalpies, but there are many combinations of BTUH and CFM that will satisfy the underlying heat equations (after adjusting air density). What additional information is used by the app to solve this dilemma?
Jim seemed to answer the airflow question for me in a recent thread on hvac-talk, when he said that the app really only computes CFM per ton, and then multiplies that by the nominal tonnage to get CFM. CFM per ton comes straight from the enthalpy equation, corrected for air density. Q = CFM X (mass air flow factor) X delta h. Rearranging we get CFM/Q = 1/(mass air flow X delta h). At least that's how I think it could be done by hand.
I'm guessing that the total, sensible, and latent capacities are estimates based on the nominal tonnage entered by the user. That tonnage is then adjusted for system load (RA DB & WB, ODA) to give a "theoretical" capacity, which is what is used by the app for "normalization". Those adjustments would be similar to what we would do manually if we had the manufacturer's extended performance tables in our hands. We'd interpolate from the table based on the ODA, IDWB, IDDB temperatures to get our total, sensible, and latent capacities. I'm guessing those relationships are pretty similar for different manufacturers' equipment, although I haven't tried to verify that myself.
At any rate, the questions those tools have raised in my mind in these areas have been good for me because they have forced me to think deeper and reinforce my understanding of how it all works.
Thank you Bryan
Great vid… thx Are you in Nepean ?
Galco's theme song at the end.
Good video. System capacity is so dependant on Air Flow it Seems that without Actually Measuring the ACTUAL CFM With a Flow Hood You are Still only Approximating System Capacity. Are you in Kanata ?
me: how many sq.ft. is your house? customer: 3000. me: okay so you will need a 5 ton unit. customer: im not sure my roof will be able to hold that! facepalm
Playing with the testo 605i in refrigeration, comparing different walk in coolers for humidity levels… question, Example, when I use the app in Basic View and only have the one 605i connected, the app shows 72F temp, 59 %RH, 62F wet bulb temp and then 57 F td.
What is the F td reading ? What is the app using as a temperature difference?
Great videos Brian. Im always learning something. Service area Ottawa??
Good vid. Just wondering why Florida doesn't use metal duct with insulation on it? Is duct board code?
Bryan,
One thing that I would suggest is to always put probes in a moving air stream when testing them for accuracy. If you put them both in the RA stream will find you get better more stable and likely closer, although those Testo probes are pretty spot on.
Awesome video please keep them coming
My second question would be.If you do than distinguish that you are infact not where you are supposed to be in terms of capacity, where would you than look to fix the issue. I am a new apprentice and certainly appreciate all your videos and podcast.Thank you
Awsome video. Keep them coming. Where did you find that capacity chart to see where you should approximately be?
Could you not use static pressures to find cfm?
Enjoyed the video
Love the video. To go further into this could you then use your 770-3 to calculate exactly how many watts it takes to achieve said btus and calculate your real time seer/eer? Also would this work in reverse for heat pumps and furnance to calculate heat?
1. Excellent video 2. Please incorporate the 405i into a future video 3. Dew Point!!