Thirty-Eight back early yeah awesome welcome back everybody. Thank you very much, so we're gon na get into the teardown session. We have a few volunteers here, Damon it's gon na volunteer as well as Charles okay. Before we get involved and start tearing these compression down.

What are the steps if this was on a system? What is the steps before you start tearing anything apart, which is really important so David? What do you do? Pump it down pump it down right? Okay, if you can't - and you get all the refrigerant out of that compressor safely right and then after that, what's the next step, disconnect power right, you'll want to make sure you're not touching any of anything live power. So you go in. You shut the power down, lock the power out, it's very important because there could be somebody else in the facility there that turns on the switch on you. It's very important, lock out your equipment you're the one working on it.

You want to be safe. You don't want to get a hit by power because you'll be in big trouble, especially if you're hitting high-voltage stuff okay, so we lock the power now. What's the next step, verifying the excellent verifying that the power is gone before we pull off. Those leads to check right before we want to check the resistance.

So if we have that compressor, where we safely go down, we got the refrigerant out of it safely and properly. We got the electrical wires on. What's the next step, pull off the leads and then check the pull off early? So let's, let's do that David, so we put when we pull off the leads and then your next step is to take your multimeter and check it. So this is a good thing that David just did so a lot of guys.

Let me just put it back on here. If you pull off the you pull off the leads to the compressor, and you check it right from here, you can do that. It's and that's totally fine, but if you pull it off, if you pull the wires off and then your oming out and you get a short to ground or dead shore, what you want to do is pull off this insulator, because maybe it's just this insulator that Has failed right, so this just failed and all you need to replace this and then you check it and the compressor is good. Then you don't have potentially don't have to replace the whole compressor.

You just have to replace this one insulator right. So, let's check it. We put these meter on BOMs 73 left the inside. That one doesn't have that one.

So I haven't looked for us are yet 7.4. Let's try the other one again, oh yeah, so they're all about the same right is that right. So is this a single-phase or three-phase compressor, it's a three-phase compressor. Should the windings equal? Yes, I 95 % of compressors that should equal.

There is one three-phase compressor: it's called the Scott T that will have one resistance that will be higher than the other two scotch. Three three three phase, but not most of them are three-phase Leah, so they all equal, so the windings will test are okay, so far, next step would be for us if we were testing at the facility. Do it on a high pot test to check the leakage of that winding, so we checked it, the windings seemed okay. We haven't checked it up a couple mobile yet so what I would do next, okay, you're gon na check it out right now, perfect if it doesn't scan just punch in the mall number.

I know Don scanned it and it worked earlier. It didn't work, so just pull it out or go back in. Is that an Android phone okay? So we did have some issues and they're working on it. With Android phone phones try mine once I sure the camera cereal or mala.

I would recommend cereal, but just punch it in there is actually a light on it. So if you press the little light symbol on so what should you just take Don? Do you want to go ahead and see if you can scan that just the show could be zero? Okay? So sometimes this does happen like if you've got scratches on the mall number. You want to just put a punch in the model number that to get it. That's okay, so we punched it in to me.

So just do the model number just punch the model number? Oh you got it so there we go. We scanned. It took a little bit because it was scratched up so awesome. So so you got a so dotted on.

You want to just show, show everyone so so now, like we talked about cold mall, you're gon na have a big list. You might not know you would know the refrigerant of that system because you're working on it. So if it's 404 or 22, so you want to select the right compressor so select a two 3404, I'm not sure what refrigerant visit or 460 doesn't matter. I've got 460 yeah.

All you got at that time. You've got ta, you just got to ankle it. Okay, so just select on one: what's the winding resistance, let's go to electrical. What was this 107? I think I know what was the 404 or 64 for a 416 three-phase 60 Hertz yeah.

So try try 230, it doesn't really matter. Does it scan for you, David awesome, number, yeah, okay, so just go to electrical and now down to winding resistance. What's a winding resistance supposed to be so one point: five: four right: what were we getting and that's what we got on the winding yeah? So is it good yes right, it's pretty close right. What's like your plus or minus, the thing is: if you got dirty refrigerant, you got moisture in there.

It's gon na have different readings on your on when you're home in a tow. So you just want to be aware of that. So now we just checked it. We think the electrics are good right.

All the other tests like I said we would do as a high pot test. We'd run it or check the electrical resistance. If it's good, then we run it yeah, so so may Meigs a little bit different in high pot. So what you're doing with do you know how met and megameter works? Yeah just shoots.

A high voltage see what the insulation is. Yeah we're a high pot test. Is it's checking the leakage alright yeah, so which is a more expensive way to do mega metering? So so we check electrical we're confident that it's the the windings are okay, so next step I would do so. You would take off you take off the loose and all the boats.

I would always cheer turn to back in okay cuz, why? What could be underneath here? High pressure, high pressure right smack you right in the head right, so you turn something in you. Take your hammer and you just top it right now, loosen it up very important to do that. You want to be safe, okay, so didn't we take. We know that we we have no pressure in behind there.

First thing David's going to do will pull up. Let's pull out the screws, so the first thing you're going to do we're gon na flip flip it over and take a look. Take it off to see what it looks like. So what the first thing you're gon na want to do is look at this gasket.

Here in the head to see, if there's any damage in there right, if the gasket is damaging, if you got a head, gasket failure right, but if it was running you would have known you would have seen the gas coming out or you would have heard it Coming out so the next step is to inspect the top of the valve plate, and so what do we see right away David? So when you look at it, does it look like there's it's clean inside there? What's black, what did I talk about overheating inside? What will it look like when you're overheating like how it look real bad right and you can't have it on so that's on mechanical wear, ah see. There's the two difference. You don't want to mix up overheat and mechanical wear right right. They cannot both, but did we just wipe that off? Do you see how we just wipe that off? So now that's some sort of mechanical wear in here, so you want to take a look to see if how the gasket looks now once again, we want to pull this off Tevan, we'll just pull that off and then flip it over.

So we see this. The discharge backers right: they look okay, so you want to flip it over now, and now we want to. This is the suction side? Also, so, as you can see here, is this a floating read or a delta read bail plate, though delta? Okay? So you want to push on that good job check, all them to see how they move. They should all move.

Should it be the same amount of force needed on each one yeah they should all pretty good. If they're solid in there, then there's an issue. Okay, so you want to make sure that these aren't broke. The suction valves right, take a look at that and once again see how we can.

We can clean that off some sort of mechanical wear, okay, so yeah, so I don't, I think, that's okay, yeah! I think that's just from the gasket so now I want to take a look at this gasket. How this one look. Yeah passed it around. Take a look at it.

It looks pretty good. You know it's not going in through here. Take a bushing so just yet give it a push, so looks like they: it pumps, okay, there's no scoring on the walls yeah. So if you look at the wall, so you want to look in here.

Put your finger in here. There's a little bit on this one yeah right here: Oh Gavin, guitar! Now that oil yeah get in you're getting in close okay, so so it pops okay, like look how usually, if you got a compressor, that's not working very good there! It doesn't pump this easy. I know I've felt in there she's really hard yeah yeah really hard to move yeah and sometimes I'll get the top dead center. So you have to take off the oil pump.

The movement these ones are pumping. This is pumping really good, so the next step. So we checked the electrical so far the electrical seemed okay, we pulled off the head. The valve plate looks good, but we did see some mechanical wear right, so the next step is to pull off the oil pump.

So there's there's multiple bolts. I can't remember how many is on here: there's six bolts on the outside and then two holding on the pump. You don't want to take off the two small ones, because then you've got access to the pump itself. You want to take off the six around it.

One thing: what did I talk about earlier today when I'm putting a check in my net oil pressure? Would I check it from the side or the top the side excellent, and then, where do i? What do I compare that to well compared to my crankcase? Okay, to get my net oil pressure and what's a good nut oil pressure over 20 to 40 right 10 is 10 down to 9 and 7. That's when it's going to trip off in as a sentronics, so let's take off the oil pump. So we pull off the whole thing. Let's just take this screw off first, so so we want to take a look at the the pot, the pump so looking at the pump, maybe we'll get some flashlights in here.

So just you want to spin it all it spins really good! You know you can even hear pumping right what would go right in here yeah, so this here's the Center for the Cintron Accord, Accor cents, will go right in there. If you're replacing this, you always need to replace this copper gasket right here, so so that's sort of pop to me that looks good. It was spinning really good, okay, so next step. So now we're gon na want to pull this piece off, so we can get to the crankshaft.

So it came off pretty easy right. If you had a flooded start - and we talked about this earlier - what happens when a flooded start happens? What goes off the world washes out the oil erratically from a lot of different places. Okay, so if he couldn't pull that pump off, there was a good chance that there may be liquid refrigerant getting to the pump there and that's why it was seized on so I've. Seen that where we couldn't, we couldn't take the pumps off okay.

What, if ya know exactly you're correct, you could even get debris in there as well, and it makes it hard to pull off you're exactly right. So two of the tests so back and forth. You should be having a little playback before. Do you feel that okay, so back at four, plays okay, but it's up and down play, that's an issue, and I want everyone to try this.

Is there any up and down play yeah yeah, that's yeah! Here he gets more than a little bit. No there's a little bit of play like it. I can feel it not too much, but hey, try it do shake it up and down not back and forth. Oh yeah, just go up and down just come, take a look at the seal up and down come and take a look at the piston here you see the piston move yeah.

Do you see that so we'll show everyone online see how this is moving up and down, so there's a lot of play there. So what was on top of that right now? What was on top here well know what wore that. So what caused that to the so that's main bearing where refrigerant refrigerant wore to me Barry. So we pull off the head and it was all black right.

What was that on the the valve play now? No, that was bearing right now when we talked about uh. Some sort of mechanical wear we've just checked. I've got my glasses on here. Let's just put those right there, so we didn't even hear to play and all right see it.

So so we had some flood back there, the best thing what we would do if we were tearing this whole thing apart, we already know we kind of got some mechanical wear. When we do inspection a couple, we would pull all the Pistons out, and you know how I see it. We've seen that progressive wear. I bet you would probably see some progressive wear on this.

This compressor here at this point, if you're on the field - and you found that you're not gon na you - don't have to go any further, there's no point gon na pull anything else off. How long did that really take us? I don't know we took a little bit so realistically we we pull the gas out. We did check the electrical, we pulled it off yeah if that right and then, when you get used to it on it'll, be a lot quicker. So now we're at the point.

Okay, we know the compressor is damaged, we need to get it, we need to get a new compressor, so we had flood back issue. We seen it, we got bearing we're. What are the things now that we need to check after we put a new one in so we need to check superheat right to make sure that we have. What do we will need to be above? Well, we don't.

We need to be above zero. Copeland recommends 20 degrees a superheat and then what other things you need a check. So oil oil. Well, this chair, Chevy.

You need to check all that stuff, but for flood back airflow right is that evaporator dirty? Is the fans not working? Did someone put different plan? Blades on the evaporator right to affect the airflow, you would see it in the super heat, but then you got to come back and figure. What what is? Is it a dirty evaporator or is it the TX valve set wrong right and you also have to check after defrost? You want to check the whole system right to make sure you check the system from start to finish right, because if you just go and it's running all its super heat and you leave, it happened to me before where, when I was a Prentice in the field, I thought I did a great job once again super he was great when I was there. I came back the next day to check out something else, and I see a nice big frost line back to the compressor. I go check the superheat, it's flooding back because after the defrost I ran into issues.

Well, I don't know about a compression ratio, but what we found out here is that that main bearing is wore right. So we had liquid coming back and washing the bearings out wearing the bearings you're talking about well he's gon na. Do it well super heat for sure you're gon na want to check, and then, if you're getting liquid in the Internet, potentially it could wash it out and you go off and low oil pressure. Actually so I could have been noisy right so potentially could have been nosey walls running because now that bearing that bearing is wore a little bit cuz, it's tens of thousands of itch.

You know your new feeler gauge, so maybe it's starting to rub a bit. Potentially. I never seen it like. We don't know where what application this was in or not, but it could be one of those things and don't we didn't really get into it because again we were time was of the limit, but you know don't rule out the possibility of you know if you Have consistent flood back like that of trapping site, make sure the line sets are set right? You know you might have to add an accumulator okay, just not just, but the super heat is where you want to start.

Are we getting super heat at it? Yeah check compress the super heat, that's awesome, so the other check that we talked about was what so we that's the one of the flood back check. What did I talk about could happen if you have an issue with blow mod or sorry when you have a damaged discharge valve? What could you have? What is it well and also here's the valve plate? Remember and this right here. This is the the discharge valve. This box right what what's happening now wall? This is compression.

What's going on top of this piston discharge, Gastel? Okay, now I got discharged gas pushing down on on this piston wrist pin right, so it hasn't happened with this compressor. But that checked what was the check again? What do you have to do? Okay, so just turn it a little bit over dead center. So David turn up fill one up, two dead center, so there's one so bad. Do the next one it's fine, and so what you want to do is push down.

If that drops down right, you have wrist, pin where, even if it moves down like it dropped it'd, be it's a noticeable drop. I mean like, if you just push on it and it will just so yeah. So if you go like this and push it down, you'll feel it yeah you can, but you want to make sure it's over your top dead center and though it'll drop, if it's real bad and then you get that knocking. So, even if you replace this valve plate, if this was busted, you're, not gon na fix the damaged wrist pin exactly excellent David.

Thank you very much. I'm gon na move over to this one and Charles Charles, how you doing great to meet you so we're gon na tear down this compressor. So this is a 40 compressor. We talked about the 40 compressor okay.

So how many cylinders is this compressor app? So it's a got two heads how many cylinders inside you said: two cylinders, Fred, so they're four cylinders in this compressor. So here's the discharge - you can put the discharge here here: here's your suction! So first we're gon na pull off. What did I say which head as we can look here? Is this an unloaded compressor? Can we put on loaders on this compressor? You look right here, yeah. Yes, we can add a motors, but this one right here has done loaders off right.

So this was a non cut, loaded compressor in the field. This probably failed, so they pulled on motors off the old compressor and put it on the new compressor, so I'm putting on temperature Pro from the core sense where what head am I gon na? Put that in? Does anybody remember yes on the left side, so when you're looking at the pump they'll be always on the left side, so any port, because this is all discharge, so this would be the port that you'd want to put that in to measure your discharge temperature over Here is your electrics, and this is one of the things that I wanted to just show you on these compressors there's motor protectors inside inside the compressors. So you have a comment and then you have your sensors and what you want to do is just go across with your meter when you just go to ohms and I'll get you to do it, so I think it'll be ohms there. So here you go, you go from the bottom and then you check the top one in the middle one, so we're getting resistance, some more resistance and some more resistance.

So what you need to do now is go back to the application engineering bulletins that talked about our electrical protectors. I don't remember the ad bulletins off the top my head and see on a coal compressor. What those should be. Can you bypass one of those sensors if you have one of them that fail or inside a compressor? Yes, you can, but if you have multiple ones that fail, we recommend replacing it because of one.

If you have two fails, you don't have much safety inside that that unit, and then you could have major issues. Okay, so you can bypass it. What do you need to bypass that one sensor, because you'll have an electronic module on this a resistor? Does anybody know what the resistor should be, whatever the bulletin tells you excellent? I think it's 2,200 ohms we'll have to double-check that in a bulletins? Okay, so we looked at it, we had a continuity through the three sensors okay, so we could continuity through the three sensors. One thing, too, is when you're using your meter on some of these compressors and it's really old, you know and there could be rust or paint on them, make sure it's a good connection too, though, to those windings right make sure it's a good contact.

So we check those out our next step here, we're gon na pull off a head, just like we did on the other compressor and you're gon na want to start with the head. That runs all the time, so we'll get David on the other side, I'll pull out some of these bolts and we'll knock off that head or sorry charl. If you just want to go around this refrigerator, remember yeah, so you have different refrigerants! That's why you get options yep, because we don't know if you're, using in a 404 application. Four four eight application well you'd have to just select it yeah on Colton mobile.

So if we just before you pull it off, if you look at the front of the head right here, it says on it contains internal bolts to remove valve plate. Internal bolt must be unfastened after head is removed. Okay, I've seen guys banging on a valve plate. Trying to get it off and it's because the bullet, it's still bolted down.

Okay, so let's pull off the head, so we want to take a look at it. So once again we look and check out the gasket here to see if there's any damage there. If we have a blown head gasket, then we want to look inside the head. So what do we notice again right on the valve plate again, so we can put that down Charles so we're.

So it's not as bad as the last one right, but we can rub that off. We're gon na have to take this off here. Let's see if that one works, I'm not sure. If that's the right man does that fit Charles yeah okay.

So now we want to expect it here: here's a little pins that hold up the valve plate on, so you can guide it down when you're installing a new one. So, let's take this off see if it comes off, you might have to give it a hand. Okay, so same thing: we want to flip it over and take a look, so it doesn't look too bad on this side, so yeah just push down on them, see they. They feel great right and we tired with the gloves, but they look.

Okay, just the oils. Co, holding them down can't get that one off, but you can check it so that one looks okay. We want to look inside here there you go so what what happened to this compressor now so all we did is we checked. We checked the electrical and now we went over to the head and we just pull off that one head right: we've seen mechanical a little bit of mechanical where on the top, because it can rub off, then we pull off the head.

Looked at the discharge. They looked okay, but then we looked inside and there's no piston, so the piston dropped that does that normally happen. No yeah yeah yeah it's half capacity. Now this compressor runs a 25 % capacity when they hit an unloader on it.

Okay. So what would it cause? This slogging okay, so now we don't even have to pull the oil pump, we're going to yeah, of course we're going to, but I'm just saying in the field to save you time. I know this is a busted. This took a slug and how do you get a slug in a refrigerant cool compressor migrated dude attaboy Chris yeah have a lot of refrigerant migration.

The compressor starts up. You have that explosion and it breaks the rod good job, Chris, okay, Charles, let's take off the pump and let's take a look at that so on this side. Well, the valve plates still good on this one. Let's check the pump again yeah, so it spins right and the pumps either direction right.

You can do good spin either direction so looks. Good runs good. So now, let's take the next piece off got a couple bolts here. What goes right in here, crankcase heater, excellent.

Ok, what yeah, let's pull it? Let's see if we can pull off and might need to hammer? Oh sometimes it's it's a little tricky. We know we know the code, the compressors, not not going back in the service right now it moved here we go. Oh, it's kind of hard. Let's see that pry bar yeah, so you know in in the field you you wouldn't be going this far but see we're having difficulties getting this off.

What could kind of move it down just a little bit? No! No between there. No, would you other in lever just move it a little bit if you can so what do you think's going on there, so we pull off that other one. A so remember. We talked about that.

What is that called the slug? Let's just put this in yeah there we go good, a lot of experience and stuff like that, so you want to take a look. You want to look inside the bearing you want to see if there's any any damage inside the bearing it doesn't. Look too bad. You see these journal in there, that's 4:40, all right, so you want to check this gasket.

So if it's just a valve replacement job and you pull off the head, you know you can just get a gasket from your local Copeland authorized wholesaler, but look inside their back a little bit in and out movement. You see how there's none up and down here and there was up and down with the other one so floor. That start doesn't cause mean bearing where it could seize the main. Bearing potentially I mean like, maybe not this one with the fool back and forth, but works you couldn't rebuild that one see this one scene is way far gone, that's a big yeah, but that one over there I would think you could with just bad bearings.

You couldn't just rebuild it, no, no, you know we what we do so we yeah so some there's. Some contractors are really skilled guys and they can. It can do it. I worked at a company 10 years ago and he used to rebuild them for our contractor, but we do a different thing.

Then there are rebuilders out there Copeland's, not a rebuilder, we're a remanufacture. So one of the big things that we do is we will tear all the parts on when this goes back to our factory, we're ripping all the parts out all these Pistons, all the rods the valve plates. We we throw almost everything away and we build it from scratch again right. Usually we remain you facture it from scratch.

Sorry we remanufacture it well, but I know a guy that rebuild the village I've seen you had Hilter on the screen yeah. I wasn't in here for you, I guess you maybe you talked about yeah. I know a guy that he rebuilds the filters yeah. Oh yeah, we have well, you will rebuild filters, yeah tall to drown, I mean yeah, so you just got to fall all the specs and if they follow the specs, properly top nine yeah.

Exactly so with these ones, though, I've done Tour tear downs where we tore down the compressor from a rebuilder and the apprentice it was actually a press was like hey Trevor machine. He was like a Trevor yeah. Well, we'll talk about that in a second like hey Trevor, I'm trying to put this piston in and won't fit in, so what rebuilders will will do? Is they just have an issue at one of the bores, still just bored out and put another piston in right, but then then, that you know your capacity changes at that point we have to be in exact specs. That's why we do remanufacturing, okay, yeah yeah.

All for sure, if you followed all the specs and stuff from like okay, I say come to Copeland and buy compressor 100 %. That's where you should get any more remanufactured compressors okay! So what did we learn from this one here, it's broken pissed is broken and what what? What caused that again slogging from a major what major migration, so this stuff is super important to understand. So if you were in the field, we wouldn't even how to pull off the pump. You look inside there so now what causes migration fail? Potentially a failed, crankcase heater.

What else could cause it blocked evaporator? That would be more of the flood back good good disk. The reads know what else low loads, low pressure yep so anytime that refrigerant can make a back wall it's off, so the compressors off that it migrates back that cup rezar starts up yeah pump down. You have continues to pump down. Maybe you don't have continuous pump down all right or don't have pump down for that the compressor and it should have pump down right or potentially could be a discharge check valve that needed to be added to the compressor.

Remember I said in some some scroll compressors will say in the AE bulletins that we need. You need dish, add a discharge check valve and that could be it because it's migrating back, because those discharges in the head of the on top of the scrolls, especially floating when that's on a seal. That's just a stop from the scroll speeding backwards, but it doesn't prevent migration. Okay, questions no well beyond the discharge line, so he's from your condenser yeah, so it'll stop it from coming back there you go so and what else? What other questions you have? Zero clearance or any I don't know there, I think there might be.

I don't know that answer Christmas or no well, we have different design valve plates where, like for our read one where they'll have like in the piston they'll have indented in the piston things like that for a fish inside, but so the last one will go over Here and check the scroll out, so they were nice enough to cut open a scroll and I'm going to show you how to do this. If you want to do this back at your shop or back at your back end, your uh yeah back in your shop or even at the distributors, like I said, you've got a relationship with your distributors. You can work with them, so on top of this scroll right here, there's a welt. We weld it across the top right here, there's a weld mark.

So what you want to do is you want to cut just below that well mark on a fixed compressor? Okay, if it's a digital compressor - and you want to look inside it, then you got to make sure these aren't in warranty, come pressors. You have to cut on the digital above the weld mark and then below. You got to cut it twice for a digital, but on a standard fix you want to just cut below the well mark and you could use a sawzall. We have a special scroll cutter at our facility could open the scroll.

But if you got a sawzall I've done it many times you screw this down, so it doesn't move or I'll use a c-clamp, and then you go around with with a really good blade and cut the top of it and you can take the top off. So you look at the muffler plate. Does anybody remember what it looked like or the high heat of the top muffler plate there? It was really black and carbon. So you look to see if there's any carbon there, I don't have the top for this one.

That's only for the digital digital models, because there's a special plate and a special design in there, so on top of the muffler plate, there's a device, so you got ta, take that off and then and then unscrew it so take it and unscrew this piece and That will come off and then you cut below it, and then you can get to this access to this. That's right exactly so! When you take this off, there's some three or four screws inside the scroll, depending on the model of the scrolls. They have little dowel pins, we don't we don't have it don't have it in here, but there's a little spacer pins. So I talked about axial axial complies to the right that one mil for the digital or or if we're gon na separate by one meal.

So that's what happens. You got this. The bolts that go down a little things are called dowel pins and it will separate like that. That's the spacer inside there! So after we get to this point, we take those bolts off this.

Here is the anti-rotation device, one yeah, and once again all we talked about there's over 20 different Scrolls out there right large. We have a lot of different Scrolls different models. Some will have them like this. Some will be different.

That ASTP model is different, has a different design in it. So what you want to do with here's your floating ceiling, we if we get two little small screwdrivers. I can pop that off for you, but if we look right at the top, we got a lot of rust here because it's been open for a while, but you would see if it was running really hot. It would be dark here, be a different color right right on the top cuz.

This is the discharge coming out right here, right here, yeah, so you would see this colored metal here right, probably would be really black and smell really burnt too. So I want to pull this off and look inside the scroll set. If you look inside the scroll set and you've got a lot of scroll galling, we call it that would be metal on metal. Yes, so there's a little bit, but when you see it like the pictures, real bad stuff, it's really indented there right right.

So a major issue. So if you have it on the inside, what type of what causes that on inside of the scroll nope yeah? But what inside the scroll? Anybody remember, what's that? What did that one fail this? What did that one fail with? It was lack of a slug right. So what what? How do you get a slug in a scroll compressor flood it? What flood it start right? I gave you the answer there I shouldn't have, but so you look inside here and there's a lot of damage inside here. That's cause usually from flooded start.

If you open this up - and it's really drying - there's no oil in there all at all and there's no oil in your compressor, that's probably from a high heat right metal on metal. Okay, so you have to think about these different things that it could be. So we got a few, a few small ones, let's see if we can just pop this floating seal off. So remember remember: I said here's the little metal piece this pushes up against the muffler plate.

We have a little hole right inside here. That's the interstage pressure that comes up there so right inside here. So what happens here when a compressor starts up? This pushes up against the that muffler plate. This interstage pressure here pushes this down to seat it on top of the oscillating scroll or the orbiting scroll.

Okay, so that's when you get that high compression ratio, it unbalanced! This, that's why compression ratio is real, important, unbalanced this and then separates it. That makes sense. Okay, some amazing scientists and I yeah. I believe it so we looked inside here if this is the discharge.

If this is really discolored and really burnt, probably high heat, okay, black could be lack of lubrication in there. So right the thing is you look, you know you want to look to make sure. So if you look inside here once again, these are called the flanks and like we talked about when you're we talk about a digital and unloads and people say they're loud. It's because they're all separate like this and they're just going like that until they load back up unload it load it okay.

So if you pull this off when you guys after you could open your scroll and you look at the bottom - and this is really marked up real bad and this bearing is gone bushing bearing sorry the sleeve bearing what would have did this now coming up the Shop, no oil, but what causes are something specifically that causes no oil flood back boy flood back coming up see, so you get the oil. If you get flood back happened, you get refrigerant coming up and it wears this bearing right and then all of a sudden you get scroll going here. So you'll look it'll, be really damage up. This called the thrust surface yeah.

This is where the oil comes up. Is the off-center shot you can take and then that's when high heat starts to happen? Well, it doesn't have to have high heat with flood backs right, but the first thing that happens yeah so right down here. You should always have oil, because this is in the bottom down here your low, bearing should always have oil here, so it's oil, that's coming up and feeding your main bearing and then your drive bearing okay, there's. So there's two bearings right here.

So if all of a sudden you, by the time you get up to the bearing, is just liquid refrigerant, we'll say it displaces that of oil. So now you get metal-on-metal and you started getting ware, and so what will happen? Is we get where it could knock? Like this a little bit right - and you could hear that in some compressors, you can see amps even higher right, because if you have that man yet flood back issue right, this is not senator. Your amps could be a bit higher okay. So that's what you want to look for if, when you cut them apart, see if this is this is gone.

If this is damaged real bad or if you have scroll galling here, you know you had flood back, you look inside it and it looks brand-new. You only had flood back, there's lots of times, you'll have flood back, flooded, starts and overheating one compressor. But that's you as a technician. You need to look at this stuff and just make sure you find figure that out by by just looking at, but one great thing here - and I don't know if this was done because the way it was cut pretty pretty red right here right.

So look. It's all burnt up so what what type of what causes this now? So we just looked at the top and and everything here and look pretty good a little bit of heat here in there short okay. So if it's a short, what could have made that short happen, potentially, no, so what? What's that? What is this right here so some dirt in the system? Well, if we had, if we had copper plating, we would, we would see some copper plating like it. Oh, I don't have the with the bushing here.

You would see it on the Bush and you pull it out and you'd see we're plating on that bushing. If it was, we don't have that here right now, so I can't tell you on that, but look here. This is your protector internal protected, but we see this as a burnt. The windings burnt right so there's a either a short, some sort of electrical issue, and so what could've went into the insulation metal? You could have some sort of contamination right.

So now we just went from the process of looking well, we get a little bit of heat, not too bad, no flood back see. We've got some heat here right, nothing too serious, but now, when we get get into here, we take a look at this. If we were to ohm this out or check the windings right off, the bat would have been bad readings. Oh well.

Where would you find that information out, first of all, a Bolton's, but it depending on the compressor it could be plus or minus 5 or 10 % right, depending on the compressor? It's 130? Okay, excellent! So - and this is the internal protector, so what you can do is you can chop this out if you go? If you cut this piece out here, this is what we would do in in our facility. We would even cut the bottom off check. The bottom bears because we inspected thoroughly to make sure we have the right answer for for all for you to get the right answer back you, wouldn't you wouldn't cut this out in the field I wouldn't you don't have to. You would have been able to look in here.

You would ohm that out and you can see how burnt it is right inside here. So you have a major electrical failure here, so excellent yeah so check out that video two questions. So this is what like I said, this is one compressor. Excuse me, scroll compressor that we have you're going to have different sized scroll sets.

You're gon na have different internal protectors, you're going to have different external protectors. You want to really understand, really understand what is going on with that scroll compressor. Is it a low temp? Is it a medium temp? Is it a high temp? Does it do a dt c or injection Evi under and stuff? Is it height app application are using for ten or twenty two okay, any questions so Charles. I want to thank Charles, very much and David.

Thank you very much for for tearing these apart. Any questions that I can help you guys with. Thank you awesome. So I'll be here for the rest of the day, if you have questions come grab a coffee with me, we'll sit down and we could talk compressors because I love talking about refrigeration.

Thank you very much everybody. So now I didn't talk about that outside. That's a good point so in on school.