I am home today because we just had the the new baby, so I'm trying to stay home as much as possible for the next few days and I wake up and I've got this error: 41 blower motor fault and 44. Failure to communicate with the blower so sounds like something with the ECM blower motor. I'm gon na go ahead and investigate see what we can find all right. So here's my air handler yeah comm light is on her status.

Light is blinking, 1, 2, 3, 4, slow, blinks, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, ok, so 4, 3, 4, 1, 2, 3, 4. So 44 is what is blinking all right, that's giving me a 44 and then I've got the constant flash on my motor here, but nothing's happening. So now, at least I know all my codes, so I'm gon na go ahead and reset power real, quick and see. If that changes anything before I go any further into diagnosing yeah.

Well, I have power off and on these I always leave power off for at least 30 seconds or so just so that way. There's you know any capacitors in you to discharge or whatever I'm gon na just check my plugs and make sure everything looks good on these make sure I don't have any poor connections or any signs of arcing or anything. That's my high voltage plug right there, which is just 240 volts coming in, make sure they get it back in real nice and snug, and this is my communication plug here. If there was any issues there now, I just check that just feel the blower to make sure that it's not stuck or anything that spins okay, I'm not doing any bearing play on the end.

Nothing weird there. With these, you always check your 4 pin connectors to make sure they're. Abcd connections make sure those are snug. That looks good look at the board for any signs of anything abnormal.

Don't see anything weird all right, so we're gon na go ahead and kick the power back on, see Toad's, it's fun for a little bit and then it stopped you just not have a call. A lot of times, that's what it does. Is it just you know it spins one direction in any other direction, just to see which direction it has torque to kind of prove that it's functioning properly with the blower wheels intact right now, my flashing lights went away. So, let's just see and what happens once Agosta time delay, I forced it in operation using the thermostat and it's still not communicating now.

One interesting thing is, I didn't, have a proper drip loop on it as much as I preached about it. Another interesting thing is, is I did a video last night and I was trying to show some maximum air flow, and so I had set the thing up for maximum air flow, and then I forgot to set it back, but I mean you're not still within the Range of operation of this unit run, it was running a little higher static pressure. Point seven, something like that. But then this morning I wake up, and I have that communication fault.

So that kind of tells me the odds are that in the process of this thing running up to higher rpm something failed inside this motor module. That's definitely my suspicion at this point. Alright, so here is the error: we're getting in the main screen, blower motor fault, so we're gon na go ahead and remove the blower. So that way we can separate the blower module from the motor we've already confirmed that it will spin up initially when it starts up.

So when you power up the high voltage, it will run, but then it just shuts back off. It's not communicating through the actual communications, pull it off, disconnect it and we're also gon na we're gon na OMAP the motor. Just because that's a process that you manufacture says they want you to follow the check the motor against the module. But this at this point, I'm as confident as I can be that it that it is the actual module I've checked.

All the visual connections in this particular case we're communicating with the indoor board, so the thermostats communicating with the board it's just that the board isn't communicating with the blower all right. So I've got my GP six and one here, you're gon na notice that I don't use a nut driver very often, and certainly for those of you who are doing a lot of production in the field. You may want to use a nut driver, but it's really important that you don't strip out screws, so I use just to just a simple quarter inch hand nut driver just to make sure that I'm not gon na ruin any threads. Again.

That's just me, but I would rather do things just to touch slower and not ruin threads, especially not a fan of impacts. When it comes to this sort of thing, I mean they certainly have their place, so that is a motor module, and this is what we call potted motor module because they actually have this in a rubber latex rubber. Looking stuff, I don't know if it is latex rubber, but that actually sits inside this, a module that keeps it from getting moisture in it, which is a nice feature, helps them to last a little bit longer. The first thing, I'm always doing when I look at any of these things, is I'm just looking at anything that looks weird anything abnormal melted burned.

In this case, we know that the motor was running when it would start up, and I didn't feel any bearing clay. There was nothing abnormal going on there, so I'm just gon na take a quick look at the windings to make sure there's nothing abnormal visually in here I don't smell anything abnormal. I'm one thing, that's kind of neat about this motor and you can see in here. It's got a rotor, but then the rotor has permanent magnets attached to it.

They see these permanent magnets actually attached to the rotor itself. That's part of what makes an ECM motor and ECM motor and that's how it's able to sense its position, because you have this magnetic force, that's being generated from the rotor itself, and it also doesn't require an energizing current, which makes it a little more efficient. But everything looks looks pretty good inside here, I'm not seeing anything, especially abnormal, so we're gon na go ahead and ohm it out just to make sure, but it looks like we're looking at a motor module alright, so I went ahead and pulled the old module out, Bringing it to the shop because we had someone pick up one from the local supply house and I'm gon na go ahead and swap it out and bring it home and install it ECM, 3.0 motor. Of course, this one actually doesn't say you see him.

3.0. The old one does, but you see right here, it says ECM 3.0 horsepower. We are good to go whenever working with any sort of variable frequency drive, which is what an ECM motor module is. You always want to make sure that you leave it disconnected from high voltage for five minutes at least, and it varies unit to unit.

But you want to make sure that it's been disconnected for a while before you go and they're touching anything. So you don't get a shock go ahead and just just as a good practice we're gon na do the test that you would do on the motor itself. Now this is a three-phase motor, which means all the windings should read, essentially identical home readings to each other. So we're gon na check each winding to the other, each other winding.

First, ten point: five, ten point: five ten point: four Tim yeah right in there all right right right, all pretty much the same there we go all right now we're gon na check each winding to ground. Now again, that's not the issue that we're having with this unit. So I would be very surprised if we would find anything significant around so treating in the microfarad scale or actually in the nanofarad scale. But let's change it to just ohms.

It's gon na go to the mega ohm scale. We got nothing, so the motor spins well has no shows. No signs of overheating shows no significant bearing play. I'm not seeing any rotor damage and the winding zoom out properly to each other and the ground.

We have no path to ground, so I feel good about going ahead and installing our motor module all right. We kicked on we're communicating we're running and I'm gon na go and put the panels on leave that in 770 three inside there. So I can monitor the amp draw as it runs, but I wasn't like we're in good shape. So now we've got it running 770 3 is inside the cabinet and so we're measuring from the outside and we're just gon na monitor.

As it comes up to speed. I'm gon na go downstairs and take a look at the thermostat, make sure we don't have any codes or anything abnormal go in there. I've just got one screw in a panel just kind of holding it on, but I think we're I think, we're good to go. Alright, so now just to test it out up at full speed, we're gon na put it in service mode, hold down the service mode icon for an extended period of time until it turns green, which always seems like an eternity when I'm in the process of doing It yeah turn green and we're gon na go to checkout, going to go to cooling right up to stage 5 for 10 minutes.

So we're running on the 5th stage of my carrier. Vna 8 1202 CFM point for static pressure. Everything is looking good: let's go up and check our amperage on our blower at full speed. Alright, so our blower is drawing 2.1 amps at full load point for static and we are rated 4.5 on this one on the beta tag.

Full load amps is 4.3. So all this all as well, all's well that ends well, alright, so another tool that I didn't show initially in the video that I just want to make sure that we cover is the tech inspect by Gen tech. You can find out more at the dealer toolbox. Comm and this tool is the latest version of a series of tools that have been out for testing ECM motors and it's very, very simple.

You just take the low voltage section, so not the high voltage but the actual control inputs from the motor you disconnect them. You connect these plugs in and then you connect these two alligator jaws to 24 volts. The biggest challenge with these is is that there's sometimes it's sometimes pretty difficult to find a good, solid spot to connect constant 24, especially on modern communicating systems. My infinity system is no exception to that.

When you connect 24 volts. This will light up the biggest mistake I see Tech's make because they have these big jaws as they to connect it to 240 or 120, and then they fry their motor and that's a bummer. So one thing you can do is you can use a 9-volt battery this used to be kind of standard practice. Recently Gentek is saying 24 volts only and I'm going to show you a little trick here.

It does definitely work, but you need to make sure that you connect the right polarity. So if you connect the blue to negative side and the black to the positive side, because this is an LED, it won't light up. But if you connect the black to the negative side and the blue to the positive side say we got ourselves our green light and I have confirmed that this does work. But I'll show you real quick just so you can be 100 % sure and in my system this was perfect because in my particular case, there's no good place to connect the 24, these two 24 without disconnecting stuff and making it a much more difficult job than It needs to be now I'm gon na do this test after I've already installed the new module.

I mean it's functioning because I didn't need this tool in order to diagnose and show this, but I just want to show you how to do it in case. You do have this tool disconnect. Is you don't want to be messing around with plugs on these? I've already got it disconnected here. So this is the regular communications plug here.

This is like I mentioned before and ECM 3.0. So now I'm gon na take this and it. This is one thing that a lot of people don't mention about doing YouTube. Videos is they're doing things one-handed.

It makes it a lot more difficult there we go so we're connected in that's in snug. Again, you can see that blowers off make sure that this switch starts in the off position off position. Alright, alright, so we got the black and blue leads and, like I mentioned, the blue needs to go on the positive just a smaller one, in the black on the larger one, the black one tends to alright. So we get we get the black now on the negative side just barely on there, and then the blue will stay on the positive side, so I'll, usually just kind of hold it so that weight doesn't slide off.

I know it seems like a pain in the butt but still easier than the other option. I'm just kind of gon na hold it, so it doesn't slide off, got my green light. There put the power on with it off, so we can make sure that it doesn't run and it is not running see the light from my PCO up above showing that it's not running and now we're gon na flip this on so now we know that the Motor and module are both functional on this unit. Again, of course, they are because I just replaced them, but that's a good diagnostic test to prove that you don't have a problem at the motor and module.

So if it wasn't working, then you did this and it did work, and that tells you that it's in the harness or the control board feeding that does you it's either in the harness or the control board, feeding it. It wasn't running. You connect this flip it on, and then it does run. This just basically proves that the motor and module are both working.

They aren't because I just replaced them.