This is a follow up video to an exhaust fan service call where I found some shorted out electrical and the fan had a slight vibration, I talked the customer into replacing the fan and I discuss how I set everything up.
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This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. So I just wanted to start off and explain that I'm gon na start this video with a clip from another video that this is directly related to and it's an exhaust fan that I had a problem with and then I ended up going back and replacing that Exhaust fan, okay, so we'll go ahead and start with it and then I'll talk to you at the end of the video today we had a service call on an exhaust fan at a restaurant. It's not working! Oh, that's funny again the fans who started running the manager laid it on the ground because the fan wasn't working and I just came up here right now and it wasn't right in and then it just started all right. Well, I'm gon na dive into it.
Put the pan back on there and see what's going on, so I am back today, and this is the one where we had the electrical short and the wiring was all mess and the exhaust fan was laying on the ground. So came back out and we lifted a new exhaust fan up here. We had a crane out this morning lifted the fan up and for liability reasons. I can't really show the crane work, but I don't need every little person in picking how we're doing things and what's not correct and all that good stuff.
So so anyways we have a new fan up here. When we go back in with our fans, we put a super hinge on it. Okay, that's this hinge kit. It's made by a company called Omni containment.
I have no affiliation with them. We just love these hinges. They last forever they're amazing. This is the new design and the new design you don't even have to drill through the the curb it literally just pinches it so these go through and they pinch against it.
And then you just drill these down in and it's an awesome awesome hinge setup. We put those basically we replace this fan. We put them on that one and we've replaced that fan. So they are awesome hinges.
I highly suggest it they prevent stuff like this. You see this fan right here is buckling and that's because the crappy hinge that they come with ruins the fans. Look at that. So this will be our last fan.
Well, one of the last ones we have to change here. So when you put the super hinge on there, you can basically one hand and lift up the fan and it stops on the other end, nice and secure. You see that this goes underneath it. There awesome I'd highly suggest if you guys change fans, that you look up this company Omni containment and check out their super hinges, they're totally worth it.
So that's kind of something we selves a customer. Whatever we do, these exhaust fan installs. So one handed you can do it super easy all right, so we've got a fan in here they come unassembled, so I had to put the motor in I had to set the pulley had to put the switch in. I move the switch up to this L bracket right here, instead of mounting it down on the ground.
They come with this little MX connector, I'm not a fan of that, but you know I didn't quote to add anything else, so we bring new conduit in. I used the existing wiring because there was nothing wrong with it. Coming up. I actually shortened the conduit, so I'm gon na go and turn this bad boy on and we're allowed to run 4.7 amps, and so we're just going to check the amps right up in here. Basically, we're out four point: three, when I close the pulley down one half turn more. I go to four point eight, so this is as high as I can do it without changing pulleys. Actually, though, you don't want to set the pulleys based off of amp draw, you just want to make sure that they're not over MP. Now I set this one to the identical setting that the old holy was set up.
You have to do that because of the building balance. Remember we don't ever adjust these pulleys to tighten the belt nor sheaves, whatever you want to call them. Okay, the adjustment on the sheave of the pulley is for the speed of the exhaust fan. It is not too tightly or loosen the belt.
Okay, I need to make that clear. You never adjust them to tighten the belt. You pull on the tension of the motor. Basically, so you loosen this and the next one and pull that out and type it down to adjust the tension on the motor whenever you're doing start up on these fans too, you always want to double check their tightness of the sheaves just to make sure - and I did so we are good everything's.
Looking straight, I'm gon na go ahead and make this connection. I usually do amp checks right here because a lot of times they're slacking the wire, and I can just go ahead and you know loosen it or tighten it. So I'll tighten that up we've got no need to support the conduit because it's you know, I basically made it as short as possible. You got to make sure that the conduits the right length so that way when you're, opening or closing or hinging the fans it doesn't impede on the hinge now.
Luckily, when I hinge this one, it's hinging this way so the conduit, so the length is needed for when it sets down flat. So I basically could just make it as short as possible to try to prevent drooping yeah, so we're good to go. This fan is good. It's set to the exact same setting.
That fan is identical. The wheel, the pulleys and everything are identical to the old fan. Now, if the new fan had different, pulleys or sheaves on it, or if the wheel was a different size, we would need to do airflow tests. Okay, if it's just a matter of pulleys, what you can do is you can use a tachometer and you can basically check the RPM on the driven shaft to see how fast it's spinning and you can set the RPM on the driven shaft to whatever the old One was at if it was running okay.
In this case, I didn't need to use a tachometer. I just basically set the pulley back to where the old one was because it was identical and the wheel size on the fan is identical to so that's pretty much. It guys so to finalize this exhaust fan, install we're gon na go ahead and replace this contactor with a traditional motor starter like this one right here, someone had disconnected the overload section before so I've got everything turned off: I've got, control, voltage and main power turned Off and I verified that so we're safe, I'm gon na go ahead and get this guy replaced. I've got the new one right here, we'll get it put together and then I'll show you what we got okay, so we have the new starter put in. I set the amps for what I think it should be. I'm gon na go up and verify the motors run. Look it's all wired in. We have them wired.
So that way, if one starter trips it only trips that starter, it doesn't trip everything so just want to verify the fan rotation. It's correct. It was also an indicator down in there telling us it looks like we're allowed to run 4.7 amps. So I usually go ten percent over that so 0.47.
So four point seven. So what is that five and some change I'll do the math in a minute but yeah we're good cover back on and set the correct amperage on the overload all right. Four point: seven plus 0.47 is five point. One seven I've got it set there just past the five, but not quite to five and a half.
You know if you follow, there's a couple: different methods of setting over current protection, and usually I've read a lot where people want you to use the the safety factor. The sfa on the motor I like to go ten percent, it's probably a little low, but I like to err on the side of caution. You need to pay attention to the manufacturers equipment that you're working on different stuff requires different amperage settings. If you're working on critical equipment, you know you got to really pay attention to what you're doing okay and don't just trust some dude on YouTube, telling you what he does so all right.
So I want to explain you know, setting the overcurrent on those motor starters. You really really need to lean on the manufacturers and do what they say. Okay, there's a lot of different factors that can go into setting the overcurrent protection on a motor starter, there's a lot of different things that you can mess up too. Typically, the majority of the manufacturers out there going to tell you to use the service factor safety factor whatever you want to call it on the motor depending on the motor.
Sometimes you see them one point, two five one point you know I mean it just depends on whatever the motor says on the motors nameplate. Okay, things can change if you're dealing with a variable frequency driven motor, getting the amperages if you're dealing with a VFD can be a little tricky too often times. If you have a VFD, they tell you not to trust the amperage, that your meter reads and to use the amperage that the VFD itself sees. So you have to know how to get into the drive and view the parameters to see the current of the exact motor there's a lot of different factors. Okay, so you guys need to do your research and you need to figure things out. Don't just trust like I said you know some dude on YouTube, telling you what to do. You guys really really need to figure this stuff out, because motor current protection setting up VFDs different things like that, if you do them wrong, they can lead to some serious issues. Okay, now I did mention that.
Typically, if I'm dealing with a electromechanical motor starter, like I showed in this video, I will typically set them about 10 % above the r-la of the motor. That's my personal preference. I typically don't have a lot of issues with that. Okay, but again you need to do what the manufacturer says to do.
You guys got to do your own research and make sure that you're setting them up correctly. If I'm dealing with a VFD like on a captive air unit, I'm gon na lean on the manufacturer. I'm gon na call captive air we're gon na, say hey. This is what we're dealing with.
What do you guys set the overcurrent at and they'll tell you where they want it set okay, same thing: if you're dealing with Greenheck, you know, I can't think of the other exhaust fan, companies names or anything like that. You want to lean on the manufacturers. Okay, inevitably it comes down to the motor manufacturer, but you also want to talk to the drive manufacturer. You know you got to do that.
Math yourself figure out what works for you, because, inevitably it's you, that's gon na be responsible. If you make a mistake when you're dealing with kitchen exhausts, you know I tend to lead on the side of caution and set it for 10 %. But if we get you know nuisance trips, then that's gon na lead to downtime for the kitchen. So you know I have to take responsibility.
So if I set that over current protection at 10 % above FLA, then you know if it trips as a nuisance like for no reason you know, then the customer can get upset with me and potentially you know they can come after me for lost revenue or Different things like that, okay, so you don't want to mess with that kind of stuff, and you want to make sure that you're doing everything correctly document everything be very, very safe, okay and be careful when you guys are working on these systems. Another thing I really really dig those those super hinges that I showed in the video okay, those again are made by a company called Omni, Omni containment or at least they're distributed by Omni containment. We've used them for years now, they're great great hinge device. They pretty much outlast the fan itself.
Okay, if they're installed correctly, so I highly suggest you guys put those things on there. They will eliminate the problems of the kerbs folding over like in this on this old exhaust fan. I mean they in you know they just take care of all those issues. Okay, I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos, give me some feedback down in the comments. I want to know what you guys think: okay, where do you normally set your overcurrent protection on your motor starters? What do you guys go for what what documentation do you use to justify what you're doing when you're working on these systems? You know I've got all kinds of old motor books and it seems like if you read one you get one answer. If you read another, you get another answer, so that's why I kind of lean on the 10 % number remember. I do livestreams tentatively every Monday evening, work permitting meaning that if I'm not too busy I'll, definitely be on 5:00 p.m. Pacific time, and I usually talk about the videos, the stream answer, your guys's questions and all that good stuff.
Okay, so I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch this and we will catch you on the next one: okay.
Love the mount! Will use!
I really need your help. Where are u located? Service area Ottawa??
What is the best trade show to attend for commercial kitchens?
Great video!!! thanks a lot for sharing.
Not "really" knocking you but this is what happens when an HVAC guy deals with grease exhaust fans. You have the fan hinged on the wrong side. The way it is now, when the hood cleaners go to clean the fan the drain will be on the side of the fan, the water will have no where to go and just makes a big mess. Install the hinges so that when the fan is open the drain is on the bottom.
Yep, check the tightness of the sheaves. Had a call today where the key fell out. Most awful sound ever. Luckily the maintenance guy was smart and shut it down PQD, that pulley would have chowdered the shaft if not…
im a german Car mechanic. why do i watch these for 4 days straight now
Why not use direct drive exhaust fans? We converted… No more belts… As long as you replace with identical CFM, voltage, phase and close current your good…. Are you in Barrhaven ?
Where are you located I need a new one ๐
It's interesting how things vary from country to country. Here in the UK most fans are simply direct drive and usually wall mounted with the ducting. These fans do seem very complex, considering the simple job they do. Service area Nepean??
Well the object of the exercise when using a motor overload is to save the motor in the event of an overload … I tend to be more conservative than you – I use 5%. Usually these motors are 115% service factor – so 5 to 10 % will shutdown the motor before motor damage – in the event of a nuance trip something needs to be diagnosed… nice video guy – I enjoy watching a craftsman ply his trade. Keep up the good work.. Are you in Ottawa ?
Nice Tip WOW
You are a smart guy. Great content.
it also depends on how the manufacturer rates the products Trust, but verify
how big is the exhuast hood that requires so many fans
is it that heavy u needed to use a crane
One of my friends is a auto mechanic and he has a shop he is looking for an exhaust fan setup instead of opening the garage doors all the time
Can you do a video on how to safely get on and off a ladder? Working on a roof is critical to anyone considering HVAC as a career.
Bad ventilator mojo Chris. Had to replaced a burnt motor today. Are you in Kanata ?
Your content is second to none, I like that you gave tips on dos and donโt s for setting up the unit, amps, air balance, hinge kit, etc.. Thanks for taking the time to share, as always great video.
Came across your channel a few days ago now and I've almost managed to binge watched most of your repair videos, I don't work with HVACR, I don't have much of an interest in HVACR but watching your troubleshooting techniques has kept me interested the whole time, your explanation of how you come to your conclusions at the end of the videos are the icing on the cake.
Keep up the good work! I am very sure this channel will be invaluable to guys doing HVACR repairs.
Hey buddy, i am from Toronto.
Quick question, which do you prefer the fieldpiece or testo wireless probes?
I am thinking of getting a set but unsure which is better.
Thanks.
I don't do hvac so I am a little lost on this: I think you adjust rpm by tightness of the belt. How does slack=speed?
Hi all, please follow Chrisโ advice in that you MUST read the OEM data on overload setting -it often differs between OEMs too! Most overload devices these days operate and protect according to a โclassโ characteristic. These classes (10A, 10, 20, 30) already have the โsafety factorโ built into the protection relay thermal model. In that case, set the relay to the motor FLC/FLA. if you get nuisance tripping, and everything else is in order (voltage, star(wye)/delta links in motor, motor insulation and balance, contactor contact state, airflow, air balance, motor temperature, ambient temperature, bearings, balance, belts, blade angle/condition/cleanliness………….) perhaps you need to consider a different protection class to account for heavy starting and/or intermittent loading. This however, will almost certainly mean other components need updating (cables for sure!).
Chris, you mention clamping for VFD motor current: this is only ever any good for a relative reading i.e. a current balance check. VFD output is basically pulsed DC (pulse width modulated) and as such, your poor ammeter gets a headache when measuring as it is designed to read (virtually) pure sinusoidal current. Youโre bang on: use the VFD display for motor current!
Schneider electric, feels like I'm home !๐
Most overloads come with a trip rating 10-15% the fla. Just set the overload to the fla. This is direct from AB and Schneider not from me. I'm in automation and put them in every day so I wanted to be sure.
Service Factor/Service Factor Amps… close enough, I'm sure everyone got the point about it!
for sure have to be careful setting overload currents if the bearing get tight/grease build when cold/overnight. it can trip the O/L's before it gets up to speed and load tames down
What reason do you need a hinge on a exhaust fan?
Nice and clean!! I just restored my phone and got my video app running so stay tuned for some video… liked this one I miss doing Some of that work so seeing it reminds me.of the big picture like you say
Good job not showing the lift. YouTube OSHA is watching LoL
Generally, I set the over current/ size the heaters to match the FLA on the motor… Then again, package handling equipment isn't as crucial compared to kitchen exhaust equipment. In your case, I understand why you would bump the settings up a bit. As the equipment ages or gets dirty, the FLA can increase and cause nuisance tripping, so I completely agree with that idea. Also, In my opinion, and I've done it, its ok to go 1 or 2 heater sizes up if necessary. If a motor is going bad or you lose a phase, the amps are going to go way up on the other phases, tripping the overload anyway. That being said, 10% above is a good number to work with.
Nice job, I had many of those adjustable sheaves fail. Do you ever change them to non-adjustable ones? Also hoping you will address the voltage issues on your jobs that you have mentioned in some video's. Thanks much for the great video's.
Motor overloads. If the motor typically runs at under it's nameplate then setting the overloads at 10% over nameplate is the way to go. If they are set to high they can't protect the motor. Other than that I beleive "most" motors are @ 1.15 service factor i think is the most common although I have seen 1.0, 1.20 and 1.25. If the motor draws at or near nameplate i would follow the service factor
Great job again like always Are you in Nepean ?
Did you leave your labeler at the shop?
Critical tip here: play with the belt tension to where on start the belt slips for about 1/4 second to 1 second (I doubt you can get a 1 second slip on such a small fan). What you don't want is running slip only start slip and just a little. What you are doing is removing tension which is a load on the bearings, speed and load damage bearings more load than speed. The idea is simple, belts and sheaves are cheap, motors are expensive, bearings are expensive. You are offering a preferred path of failure to the fan, a path that will save your customers time and money. Remember this is only the preferred path of failure not the one chosen by the fan but with some experience you will realize that you get more calls that endup being belt failure and not so many motor and fan bearing failures.
#216 Thumbs Up
Another great one ๐๐๐
schneider, that is some nice contacters๐
And thanks for yet another cool video.
๐ Service area Barrhaven??
Great vid. I do SF x RLA. Never had issues with that so 10% is ok but I try to do SF so I donโt prematurely trip the overload.
I'm hurt that you would believe I would nit pick your work because I would expect you as a top line professional not to be associated with bad work practices because that route will bite you badly at some point in your work life and nobody wants that. Nice video as usual.
๐
Dude love the hinges. Never knew the mfg. that sold em. Good info and vid. Keep up the good work. ๐๐ป
Brilliant set of brackets on the bases. Always makes it easier for maintenance.
I wish Videos like this came out when I was fresh out of school ๐ฅ๐๐พ๐
I am Subscribed and I get notified about every new video that you post! You are awesome! Service area Orleans??
Great Video! I LOVE HVACR!