Bryan Orr shows us how to setup a transformer with a switch for testing purposes by splicing wires with heatshrink butt connectors.
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Okay, so I'm going to be doing a video on the 9340 relay, but I needed to prep this transformer. So that way I could energize and de energize the 9340 relay easily and I figured well. I might as well make a video of what I'm doing here to prep this transformer, so this is actually a fuse holder, so I can put a three amp or five amp fuse in here. I don't know if you can see inside there, so you can see there.

We've got some female Spade terminals that accept fuse. So take this fuse right here. I always inspect the fuse itself and make sure that it's in good shape I'm going to go ed and place this inside the fuse holder. Okay, so now it's in there, nice and snug.

Actually this side looks a little higher than the other side. Let's so now what we do to test this to make sure that the fuse holder is good before I connect it into the circuit, because now this should be a closed circuit. Okay, so now ring from one side the cheese holder to the other reading point one point to that range, so we're doing okay, now, all right, so next I want to do. Is I want to connect this in line? This is the 24 volt secondary on the transformer, so I want to connect this in line with the hot side, what we call the hot side of the transformer I like to double the wire up like this and sort of twist it that way.

That makes a much firmer connection, so these are, these, are heat shrink, butt connectors I like heat shrink, because it just gives it a little additional protection. So there we go. I'm going to take my crimpers side of the way crimp down nice and tight, then always pull on it to make sure it doesn't come out all right, so nice and tight connection there. Now I'm going to use my little handy, dandy, butane, it's a soldering kit, but it's also a torch, so I've taken the end off so that way the flame can actually heat at the end.

So put that turn that on obviously don't want to overdo this, because you don't want to melt the wire, so you notice I'm not getting it right, I'm not getting it right on the wire itself, just close enough all right, and so now that's nice and snug And obvious, I don't want to touch that right now, because it's going to be pretty hot. I've got my little over here. I've got my little sponge, all soaked and ready, and so I can cool off the tip also place for me to kind of set it over. So there's my there's my connection: let it sit a little bit and cool.

Now I'm going to go ahead on this end here, I'm going to put a female Spade on it. So that way, I kind of make a quick disconnect sort of a thing you can see. The split on this is right here, so you want to use that you want to put the actual jaw opposite, the split so the actual part that does the crimping. You want to be opposite the split, so it would be right here, alright, so pulling on that.

That's nice and snug. I really the same thing got my fuse holder connect it in and now when I want to make a connection, I just use a female Spade on the other side to make a connection to whatever, like that. So now I'm going to take this and I'm going to make a connection into a switch little guillotine switch. So I'm going to make a connection, nice and nice and firm now on this other end, I'm going to connect a make this connection in order to connect to the actual switch here this one here.
The split is right here, so we're going to put the gel on the opposite side, all right so now these are all cooled down. We're going to make our connection here so now that connection is made, and you can see here like you know, we've got some. We've got some gap here, so this is I'm only making it this way, because it's a 24 volt connection that I using for a demonstration. I wouldn't leave this bear like this.

Normally, I would just make a actual buck connection, but I'm just doing this so that way we have a quick, quick connect in and out and now I'm going to connect this here into the switch and then we can go out of the switch to our relay. So we can control our relay coil now. The only final thing I want to do is I've got this little short bear wire on the actually. I want all I'm also going to make some buck connections to the cord, all right.

So on this side, I'm going to actually use a red buck connector and not double it over, because it's stranded, it was solid wire, I'm pretty much always going to double it over like in the only cases you would do. That would be like with a thermostat wire, obviously with large gates, large gauge, solid wire you're, not going to use a crimp connector. So, as a general rule, you only use crimp connections on a stranded wire, that's nice and snug I'm going to make it into the other end. Here you all right, nice, tight connection there back to the old soldering or so again stranded wire.

Only for this alright! So now I'm going to put the female end on this. These are the ones that I strip off really short. The split is right here, so I'm going to put the jaw on the other side, the actual indention on the other side use the small indention on my crimpers, it's nice and nice and snug there all right. So there we go so we've got transformer hot through this wire through the fuse make sure that we protect the circuit and into a switch.

Now. All I got to do is come out of this side of the switch go into my relay coil and then back to common. So that's that alright! So that's it, i'm brian with hvac school, and this was just a little video showing you how to add a fuse in line and how to make plug connections with heat shrink. Thanks.


8 thoughts on “Heatshrink crimp connectors”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars M A#np says:

    Hi.. i found your video to learn more about crimping over heatshrink. I am shopping for a rachenting crimper. And I started seeing dintinctions from reviews that some crimpers will tear the heatshrink when crimping down over them. And i was wondering why and what qualities of crimper avoic that and what are the pros and cons of that. I want the crimper for general crimping . BTW, You could fix that bare metal bu just adding a piece of heat string tubing to cover of the metal. Youcould also enhance the insulation by overlaying it so it reast deeper and can then be covered by the insualation of the other connector.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tony Wadkins says:

    Thanks for the videos! Just want to comment on using these pliers on insulated terminals. I don't know of any other wire crimping tool manufacturer stating that this type of tool can be used for non-insulated AND insulated terminals. In fact most crimping pliers of this type have two locations for crimping….Insulated and Non-insulated usually marked on the tool. This type of crimp is used specifically for un-insulated crimps. I don't think this is a big issue for low voltage or low current but is very important for larger gauge connections like on the line connections to a contactor. Personally I don't like these pin-type crimpers even for non-insulated terminals. It seems like the pin side of the crimper splays open the split side of the barrel in an unruly mess and at the same time possibly crushing some of the strands directly under the concentrated force of the pin. The best crimp is one that envelops the strands with even compression around the circumference creating more of a gas-tight connection that excludes air and moisture resulting in less internal corrosion. The more advanced ratcheting crimpers for insulated terminals have a wide and smooth die set on both sides with three sizes corresponding to yellow, blue and red. The even better ratcheting crimpers are for non-insulated terminals and have a die set that captures the split in the barrel of the crimp and rotates it slightly inward while at the same time evenly compressing the wire strands without any air gaps. In high humidity, moisture or coastal areas I like to use heat shrink along with the non-insulated terminals and with solder after the crimp even though there is controversy about soldering in regard to vibration, work hardening, etc. Is your method going to fail? I doubt it. But I hate call backs and don't like worrying about important details like this. I've seen way too many charred connectors that are damaged from the heat created by high resistance of the bad connection. This can also damage the compressor motor over a period of time if it's not receiving the right amount of current/voltage. The heat shrink terminals you are using are great by the way! I would caution everyone to never use the cheap hard vinyl insulated terminals on high current/voltage. Along with the cheap insulation is usually a cheap thin gauge metal barrel that doesn't have enough strength to stay compressed. Thanks again for this great source of HVAC knowledge!

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars drifter436 says:

    Do you like Irwin pliers better than say Klein or knipex? Great video by the way.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Glenn Harrison says:

    Nice job, really secure and safe wire connections. I love it. Can you provide or link any information on that "torch" kit you have? Also where do you get the heat shrink connectors from?

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars amjad mohammad says:

    dear brother can you give any idia to control humidity ,it's in hospital oparation theater we have split units,pls help me i am from india Are you in Kanata ?

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joe Shearer says:

    The power probe kit comes with that nice heat shrink accessory

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gene_K Hvacr says:

    is the fuse holder atc 10 gauge?

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RJParker says:

    Good video. You can also buy a plug in heat gun at places like Harbor Freight for low dollars when working in a shop or elsewhere. Very little chance of burning anything and fast heat shrinking. Another tip is to crimp all the connections first, then heatshrink in one operation.

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