This video is for beginners to the HVAC/R trade not homeowners or those who aren’t properly certified. HVAC school covers the basics of how an air conditioning and refrigeration manifold works and how it is used. Featuring Bryan Orr.
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes
and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes
and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/
Alright, I'm gon na do this quick video to talk about basic refrigerant manifolds, or we call them often gauges. The gauges are actually these two components here. These two parts here so we'll often call them gauges, but really we should call it a manifold. This part here is the manifold body, and these come in a lot of different types.
I've had this set of gauges or this manifold for many many years. I think I don't know, probably in the the ballpark of 1213 years, something like that and I haven't cared for them because I don't use them very often, so I kind of pulled these out and it's either they're not in great shape. The covers missing on this one, but the first thing to note is that these are what measure the pressure and then we can convert that pressure into temperatures in order to calculate things like superheat and sub cooling. These scales on here on the inside show different temperatures for different refrigerants and when the needle points at those temperatures, that's what we call the saturation temperature that goes along with the pressure that's listed on the outside same thing.
Here, on the high side, you see that the gradiation change, so it's from 0 to 50 here and here 0 to 50 - is a much wider range. So you see this goes all the way up to 250 psi before it goes starts to go into overpressure. This one here goes all the way up to 500 psi, which is pounds per square inch gauge. The first thing is we calibrate these to atmospheric pressure, which is why it's psig pounds per square inch gauge as opposed to pounds per square inch.
Absolutely we had these calculated or calibrated to pounds per square inch absolute. Then we would have to set them to 14.7 PSI a at sea level in order to measure that pressure. So we are calibrating the zero at whatever altitude we're at or whatever barometric pressure Rhett. So you can see right off the bat that this one right here is a little bit off and I've already got the lens off.
So we're gon na go ahead and adjust this to zero it out. You can also see my needle here's a little bit bent. So it's not the best when I'm going to zero this out to atmospheric pressure and the process, I should take these off the Parkes to just to make sure that it's totally open to Emma sphere before I do this calibration right. I made the common error there of using a term that I didn't explain first, so these are our hoses and these here or what we call parks.
These do not actually communicate into the manifold at all. These actually are blocked off inside and it's just a place for you to thread your hoses on to so that way. Dirt and air and moisture doesn't get inside your hoses when you have them stored. You want them to be on these parks to prevent that, because we don't want any dirt or anything getting into these hoses.
This is what we call our high side. Gage high pressure gage the hose is red, for that now again is the cover of the hose mater, not really, but we use the standardized color so that that way we don't accidentally get them on the wrong side. The center port here is for our charging and recovery, and that's we use yellow for that, and then our left side is our low side, our low-pressure side, and it feeds up into this gage right here now for somebody who's brand-new to looking at a refrigeration manifold. The first thing that they assume is that these handles somehow have something to do with what you read on the gage and the fact is that, as soon as I connect this to a source of pressure as soon as I thread this on, it's going to measure The pressure on the gage this handle doesn't have anything to do with pressure being read by the gage. This is open through here, regardless of how this handle is turned. What this handle does is it allows communication from the center to the other side and we'll talk a little bit more about that in just a second, but, like I mentioned, the first thing that we got to get straight is make sure that our we are calibrated Out to zero on both sides on this one over here on the low side, you can also see that this one has also a bit miss calibrated so before I were gon na put this in you, so we want to open this up. Make sure that it's open to atmosphere and then dial this back to make sure that it's exactly at zero, so that way, we're gon na read appropriate pressure. Let's talk about a couple other things here that are very pertinent to this.
I'm, like I mentioned already, you want to make sure that you don't get any contaminants inside the system and most systems are gon na, come with something called a Schrader core. If you've ever looked at a bike, tire port or a car, tire port, you'll notice that there's a little pin in there and you have to depress that pin in order for pressure to go in or out our fridge. My manifold is similar in that regard. It has a depressor, which you can kind of see there, that pushes down on that pin that's inside most service valves, especially for air conditioning.
They have the Schrader cores inside there and this pushes down on that pin and allows flow through the port. But it's only that way on one side if I were to open to open up and show you the other side here that connects to the gage you're gon na notice that it's wide open inside here, there's nothing inside this other side. That depresses a Schrader. So you can't connect these hoses backwards, otherwise they won't work when you have a Schrader in place.
The other thing to know about this, and this comes up when you're doing an evacuation, which means pulling a vacuum or a recovery, these little core depressors that are inside these hoses that are designed for valves that have Schrader ports in them. They do cause a restriction to flow, so there's not going to be as much flow through this because of this little core depressor that sits in the center of that hose, which is fairly obvious. But you want to make sure that the open part is what connects to the manifold and the part that has the core depressor is what connects to the service valve on your piece of air conditioning equipment. Now there are types of equipment that have what we call adjustable back seat, front, seat, type valves that don't have straight errs in at all where they actually open and close. And in that case it wouldn't matter. You wouldn't need a quart of pressure at all. But most standard refrigeration hoses have core depressors. Another thing here is this: is this is a hook this hook hooks on to your equipment generally to kind of hang your gauges? One thing to be really careful with this hook is: do not poke this into your condenser coil.
I see a lot of guys beat up units by jabbing this into the condenser coil. You want to be very thoughtful about where you attach this hook, so you don't damage anything. Something else to consider is you're gon na see some gauges that have a sight glass, that's what this is, and the purpose of this is so that when you are charging or recovering, you can actually watch the refrigerant flowing through. This doesn't have a whole lot of practical use other than that you can sort of see the flow, and you can know that it's flowing, but it does have one use, which is that when you're charging a system in its liquid phase, which you have to do With many types of refrigerant like r410a, for example, you have to charge it in its liquid phase.
You can watch and make sure that you're not over feeding with liquid and possibly slugging or flooding a compressor, because you don't want to overfeed the liquid, and so that's something that people will use that sight. Glass, for is just to see how much refrigerant is being fed through here's. The key thing that I alluded to earlier - that we want to just make sure you're completely straight on with this gage manifold. The reason for these handles is to feed refrigerant through the body either to the center hose or to the other side.
So if I were to open this one - and I were to open this one now - refrigerant can flow from this port to the center port and to this port. So all three of them are all mixed. Now let's say I had this connected to the park so that that way now we're only feeding from one side to another. We could use that, for example, if I had a low loss fitting on here and I wanted to feed my liquid back into the suction side of the system say I had the suction side still connected to the equipment, and I had shut this off with a Ball valve, I could feed the liquid refrigerant back into the low side of the system from the high pressure side to the low pressure side by opening both of these, but in most cases, you're only going to open one at a time.
So, if we're charging a system, we're gon na take this one right here, this Center hose off the park and we're going to connect this to a refrigerant tank, that's full of virgin refrigerant new refrigerant that we were wanting to charge into a system. I can connect that to the tank and then I open up this gage a little bit and it's gon na feed refrigerant through here and then into the system. Remember these have nothing to do with whether or not your gage reach pressure. Your gage will read whatever pressure is on the hose on this on these ports here this port here in this port here, regardless of whether or not these handles are open, but as soon as you open this up now, it's going to allow refrigerant to flow from This hose here through the body of the valve of the manifold and then into the low side of the system. The opposite is true for the high side, if I were to connect this to a recovery tank on an operating system, and I had high side pressure on here. If I open this valve, it would feed refrigerant out of the system and into the tank, because on an operating functional system, you're going to have lower pressure here and higher pressure here and tank pressure is going to be somewhere in between. So when you open up from a tank to the low side, it's going to flow into the system, if I shut that off - and I open up this one - then it's going to flow from the high side back into the tank and they're different types of tanks. Charging tanks don't allow flow, both directions.
The new you know, modern charging tanks only go out and recovery tanks are designed to take in. There are some applications where you can use recovered refrigerant and put it back into the same system that you took it out over. For the same customer, but largely speaking, we're going to be charging out of a new tank, putting refrigerant into the system by opening this knob into the low side. And if we have to take some out we're gon na put it into a properly designed recovery tank.
We're going to take it out of the system and put it back in now again, I want to state this very clearly, just like we put in the disclaimer at the beginning. This is for trained professionals only. You are not to do this as a homeowner, as somebody who has no experience and no training, you need to have an EPA certification with the Environmental Protection Agency to handle most of these types of refrigerants. So it's important that you go through all of this, but this is one of the very basics when you first start off in the trades and things you need to know about how a gauge manifold operates.
Finally, what I want to say is: don't over tighten these knobs. So when I, when I turn this valve shut, I'm only finger tightening, that's tight enough. I don't need to put a wrench on it. I don't need to crank it down.
If you do that, you're gon na run the chance of damaging your seals inside of the valve and then they're gon na tend to leak. So whenever you're open and close you're just doing it with finger finger tight. The same thing is true: when you attach these on to the system, you don't want to over tighten them because you'll over compress the seals inside here and you'll notice that you have to replace your seals more often be very thoughtful about the seals and your equipment. Also, don't overheat these, so if you're brazing on a system, you want to make sure to keep the valves cool, so you don't overheat. The rubber seals inside otherwise you're gon na find that you go through a lot of these seals and on most gauges. These are replaceable, so there you go. That's the basics for the analog refrigerant manifold, stay tuned for future videos for us to talk about the differences between this and some of the more modern gauge manifolds. Thanks for watching you.
allow communication lol. i think you meant flow Service area Kanata??
Super
hate that lame disclaimer do not use it unless you're a trained professional. I get you're trying to protect folks but it also sounds like you're looking to protect jobs for the industry. IMO, if you're diligent with safety and did your homework, you're good to give it a try. Definitely safe if you've been taught by someone too. That's how I learned plumbing and electrical and people always say the same thing. All that said, obviously try at your own risk so do more hw and be extra careful if you want to lower your risk. I'd rather be told that then to not try at all unless I'm a trained professional. =)
Thanks for the video
I'm a home owner and I'm doing it anyway…lol
I charged my system in my car today and it was blowing 50 degree air for an hour with 100 degree temps outside at 30psi and I went to close down the manifold to disconnect and accidentally opened the discharge side with the suction still open. Suction pressure skyrocketed and now I only have 70 degree air coming out and 50 psi on the suction and about 275 to 300 on the discharge. The discharge side is pretty much in spec with my service manual but the low side is now way too high and I don’t have cold air anymore. What do I do?? Will the pressure balance back out as the system runs? Also is it possible I damaged anything? It took me about a minute before I realized why my numbers went wacky. Also this is a very informative video and I learned a lot in just a few minutes. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
You answered the exact question I had about the hose direction. Thank you!! Are you in Orleans ?
I just started my first Hvac job I told them I had 5year experience got the job getting paid really well but I actually don’t have 5year experience know very little. Hopefully they don’t find out.
Terrible instruction! I hope some suckers aren't paying you.
My yellow hose for the MGS has a sort of valve inside one of the hose ends. The instructions do not mention which way this valve is supposed to face ( gauge set or refrigerant/ vacuum pump side)
Any ideas?
Should have shown zeroing the low side, vacuum discussion and values on the low gauge. The infamous 500 microns…
I'm improperly certified.
Do you always recover refrigerant through the high pressure side??? So you're saying you put in refrigerant on the low side and recover on the high side, is this so for all refrigerants should they be put in on the low side as a vapor, and recover on the high side as a liquid. What about 410-A does it go in as a vapor or does it install as a liquid on the high side??? Service area Ottawa??
Excellent Service area Nepean??
Would you disagree with the idea that most licensed HVAC contractors are reluctant to work on the installation of the low cost mini-split units sold by the "big box DIY stores. Seems like HVAC contractors service and install only the specific big name HVAC manufacturers they prefer.
Do you know where I can buy the "parks" fittings? I've been searching everywhere online and can't seem to find any.
Still trying to save some money to buy the vacuum pump. Any alternatives to share ?
In my country most aircon technicians come from india. Yhey dont appear to have any certification at all yet they charge exorbitant prices. I am planning to do this on my own. Are you in Nepean ?
Thank you for this Sir. I wish you had a video on how to charge an aircon
Great video, thanks man.
Thanks for this video Are you in Ottawa ?
Your Guage don't have valve to release moisture air in tube
As a recent graduate of trade school and new in the field these videos are awesome. I typically try to get in 2 a day. If not at least 1. Appreciate it Brian and Kalos.
Good video.
I bought my own gauge set for car work.
Things that confused me at first is the valves on high and low do not change pressure reading, that took me awhile to figure out, so good pointing that out.
I've been trying to figure out what the smaller temp numbers are used for on the inside.
Tip for folks doing r134a like me. Make sure Schrader depressers are fully counter clock wise prior to quick connect. Then turn them in slowly till you read pressure on gauge. That way you do not hurt that Schrader on low and high lines from over compressing them.
Great video!!
Thank you!
I would love to see a video showing the replacement of a gauge on the manifold with another guage. What tool do you use? Is it easy or hard? Is it safe? Are many of the gauges compatible amongst different manifold manufacturers?
Great video; thanks.
You talk too much, yes talked and talked, yes said when we need to put refrigeration and what where needle are supposed to be
Great explanation!
I have watched a number of videos on this and no one comes close to explaining this as well and simple as this man does. Kudos to you sir!
Should you avoid using the same manifold and hoses set on r22 and r134a systems? Or there is a cleaning procedure? Thanks Service area Barrhaven??
Well done! Jesus is Lord; God bless!
thank you very much so understanding as Legale home oner or personal use I can't do (Care or my AC ) system until I have the certificate you mention (EPA)? if yes so from wear? and how much it will cost and how much it will tack time ?
14.3
Does at least the basics of this type of manifold apply to an automotive a/c system?
What should I do if my gauges only has 3 parks I don’t want to take my hoses off and on after each use
Learned more in this 10 minute video than I did in first year trade school.
All 6 pipes in detail not explained with connectiin.
You are genius but we are novice.
It may have taken only 2 minutes more
Good 4 out of 5
Cool video
I've been in the industry for 2 years now, and you showed me a few things I did not know thanks for the demo!!
Thank you for the explanation