Oh, I didn't see you there, I'm just polishing up this steel rod to give you a demonstration all right now. What I'm working on today is I've been working with a lot of these new solder. Weld products probably see me. Do some live videos on it, but this is the new solder.

Well, Multi kit comes with a bunch of different rods in it, it has a 56 % rod for doing dissimilar metals, especially steel to copper, steel or brass brass to copper, and then it also has a copper to aluminum specialty rod. It has a great aluminum rod and then it also comes with 50 % silver. So it's really kind of a catch-all pretty much everything you're gon na need, and today I'm going to show you how to use it with steel to copper, and you may think to yourself. Why would I ever braze steel to copper and the answer? Is you actually run into it more often than you think, because in a lot of cases, compressors are actually copper plated steel, and so you may find cases where somebody's burned through the copper plating and now the solder is no longer sticking, and this is how you Deal with that, so you can pull back off, you'd clean it up, really really good and then you'd go at it with a 56 % rod like this one right here.

This is the packaging for this. This is actually one of the freestanding packaging for the sill saw 56 from solder. Well this great product, and you can actually use it for steel to steel. Even so, if you had a, I could actually braze together the steel top of a compressor.

I've even seen people raise holes that closed with this product, not necessarily recommended application for that. But let's go ahead and show you so I've gone ahead and put a port on this so that we can flow nitrogen as we go. I'm going to flow between two and six SCF h of nitrogen, and so you should just barely hear that hiss, and so, if you don't have one of these fancy regulators, you can see with this nice Victor regulator that I have it set on the very low Range of the braze setting. So if you look right here, you've got braised and then perch.

Normally speaking, if you're working on regular system, you purge through nitrogen first and then you'd set it into the braze setting, which is very, very low cfh in between two and six cfh. If you don't have a fancy regulator like that, then you can use a typical regulator. You just want to set it down to where you can barely hear it. That's actually a little bit much so I'm gon na turn that down just a little bit.

So I can just hear it whispering out all right. That's good! Now I'm going to go ahead and use a copper coupler on this. So this is steel tubing and I'm gon na use a copper coupler, and I can use an air acetylene torch, which I've been using a lot of turbo torch. I'm gon na go ahead and use an ox acetylene rig here, because that's more what what most technicians would use.

Obviously, I'm wearing some pretty cartoonish gloves here just to show the importance of safety. These aren't generally the gloves I'm gon na use out in the field. In this case, we wouldn't want something crazy to happen on film, so ox acetylene torch were flowing nitrogen right now. If I was working up against a compressor or something I would want to make sure to use something to trap the heat there's a lot of really good products out there.

One really good product is heat block by solder weld and make a great product. Also wet rag by refrigeration. Technology is another great product you can use, or you can just use an old fashioned wet rag in this case. We're not concerned about it.

So I'm not doing anything with that when I apply my heat - and this is really important - I'm gon na apply it to the steel and the reason is because the steel has higher thermal mass, it means it can absorb more heat and it also has a higher Melting point, then, the copper, so I'm gon na apply it to just the steel and that's going to conduct down into the copper and I'll watch the color of the copper change. And then I know that's when I'm okay to apply my rod. It's actually a really really simple process with a flux coated rod like this one, so there's really not much to it all right, so I'm gon na light my torch with these cartoonish gloves. This is not my regular torch setup.

It's like our shop torch, so you know how it is with torches. You get used to your particular setup and it's annoying these others, I'm mostly just hedging in case they make a fool of myself here. So what I'm gon na do is i'm going to apply heat around the joint to the steel, definitely on the steel side, but i'm not too far back now. I actually use kind of the wrong hand for this, just because I always have I've always used.

My left hand for the torch, really I as a right-handed person, I should be doing it the other way, but I'm just so used to doing it this way. So, by applying the the heat to the steel, I'm gon na see this and I'm already seeing this start to get that kind of cherry red. So I'm backing off. I need to get the flux to melt into the joint without the flux it won't flow there.

We go now, we definitely flowed you can see it's flowing all all the way around really really nice. It's actually very easy to do because of the steel conducting heat into the joint like that. That flux just flows right around and that's really all we need to do right there. It's nothing fancy for sure.

But if you look inside this joint yeah, there's there's solder, that's flowed all the way around right into the edge of this joint. So it's a really good joint, it's gon na seal really well. The goal is to get the solder to pull into the joint as far as you can and that's what we've done, so it's actually in really good shape. Now, in most cases, you want to let this cool down by itself, but I'm gon na go ahead and cool it.

You know, that's that's for maximum strength. I'm gon na go ahead and cool it down now, just for demonstration purposes and show you how the joint looks when it's all finished. So I'm gon na take a steel brush here and just kind of brush it off with a little bit of water, because I use flux on it and it is an acid flux. You do want to clean it off when you're done and again normally.

This would be a completely finished joint, any time you're using a corrosive flux. You need to just go through and just clean it off, but again you want to wait until it fully cools off. So if you look around the back edge of this joint, I mean it's perfectly sealed, and then we also saw that solder flow into the joint on the other side, which is exactly what we're looking for. But that is a copper to steel connection.

Heat applied on the steel until I saw that copper turn to that dark cherry red, and then I applied it on there. Let the flux flow and it makes a beautiful joint. Of course, you don't have to get this extreme about cleaning it up, but I like to show how beautiful it is. It's really a great product and you'll find that when you get into a pinch in places where you have steel components or where the copper plating has been worn off of the steel component, that this is a great way to do it, we've been flowing nitrogen in This whole time, so there's no chance that any oxide is buildup on the inside of the tubing.

That's how to use SIL salt 56 from solder, weld to brace together, copper and steel, really easy, and you should have a couple of these rods on every truck. Depending on what you run into like, I said, you can do copper to steel brass, to steel brass, to copper, copper to copper. You can also do steel to steel or brass brass, which comes in very handy. Alright, thanks for watching we'll talk to you next time.