Of course they noticed the walk in freezer was getting warm Saturday afternoon, just my luck but it all worked out in the end.
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11:51 WE ARE BACK AT IT AGAIN WITH THE WHITE VANS
17:03 UH OHH
18:47 TOLD YOU I'D WIN AGAIN
19:39 CLOSING WORDS
Let's go ahead and do an audio sync. I don't know why that messed with my head right there all right, audio, sync, i'm starting to look like a homeless person. I need to go, get a beard shave like fluff, it all out make it look like that. Make it look like i'm just like a worn out crazy mechanic there we go.
That's that's about right, right, dumbass, all right! This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition, all right. It's saturday, august 21st. It's about two! In the afternoon. We got an emergency service call for a walk-in freezer, not working.
You can clearly see that it is super frozen up, so we're actually going to start up on the roof. Have a look at the defrost clock and investigate that first and then we'll come down here and get it defrosted. So we've got an older cold zone rack right here. You can clearly see ice on the suction lines.
My controls cabinet is right here. So we're going to open this guy up, my defrost clock is in here. So, let's see which one system g is the freezer. So it's actually this newer, defrost clock right here.
Stupid japanese beetle scared the crap out of me um. So we need to investigate this. Guy and figure out what's going on uh, let's see the time is about an hour off. That's not too bad.
Let's uh put it into a defrost there we go see what happens see if it switches over into defrost doesn't seem like it is we'll give it a minute, though. Usually it'll go to the red thing. Now see it's not even going into defrost, but we don't know if it's a defrost termination issue or something so we'll look into that all right. So, let's test to see, if we have, it should be 208 volts coming into the clock.
Okay, we do that's line. One to n and then from three to n, really have nothing and then from four to n. We've got 201 volts, but we're in defrost. So what is going on here? All right? I disconnected the x terminal, the x wire, that's the defrost termination and this guy went right into defrost.
So let's confirm that it's actually in defrost now, so we go from three to n 201 volts and then we go from four to n. We should have zero yep, okay, so the defrost termination switch was sending power back up and not allowing this clock to go into defrost. So we're gon na do is we're gon na go ahead and make this an extra long, defrost we're gon na go down and verify all the heaters are working and we're gon na, let it run while we're getting prepped and taking apart the coil we're gon na. Let it run and defrost so that way it starts to melt some of the ice, but there's so much in there that we're gon na have to melt it by hand.
That's interesting because we're clamped across the number three wire, which is sending power down to the heaters and we've got no current on it. Now sometimes they'll have a separate defrost contactor, but i don't think that's the case here. System g, no, there's no separate, there's! No inner link - this is our compressor contactor and that's. Interesting too, is the compressor, contactor still pulled in walk-in freezer system g. What the heck! Why is the compressor contactor still running yeah? That's really bizarre. The compressor contactor still energized what the heck is going on all right. It shut off eventually the compressor it must have just been waiting for it to pump down at the low pressure control so we'll come over here. I'm surprised, though it usually will pump down a lot faster than that.
Oh wait! Oh that's interesting! There is an interlock, because now we have current. So one of these contacts is an interlock contact. I'll have to figure out which one, ah there it is. I came over to this schematic right here.
This is system g and if we look right here, we've got this is our defrost clock and we look up here. R2. R2. Well, actually, we can come right here.
R is relay okay, and we come right here, and this is r2, so this is our interlock relay um. Usually, you see this next to the compressor contactor like bolted on, but in this case it's not so this is our interlock relay that doesn't allow the defrost heaters to be energized unless the compressor contactor is off and the compressor contactor is controlled by a low pressure Control so, okay, now we're pulling current so again we're going to go downstairs and start checking everything out down there, but i made it an extra long defrost that way the whole time, i'm getting everything ready. It's going to be running trying to melt as much of that ice. You know as it can before.
I get the hot water in there now that that contactor, we're in defrost still and now that the contactors pulled out look at how bad and how pitted the terminals are. So that's definitely something you know big picture kind of stuff that we're going to address now. We're going to fix the problem at hand, which is which is an ist up coil, but i'm definitely putting that on my list to recommend to the customer that we go and replace that contactor before it leads to a catastrophic system. Failure such as the contactor burns out blows a fuse, breaker or uh the compressor burns out because uh the contactor has voltage drop across it.
Who knows, but we're gon na address that contactor before it becomes a problem, i'm trying to get access to the defrost heaters. They're back behind this panel, but a thermostat is in the way. I don't know if i installed this or someone else did when you install these. You want to think about the next guy because i can't get this panel off.
So i went ahead and moved the thermostat over just a little bit, but in uh paying attention to this panel right here looks like i installed the temp control in 2009. So it was me that put it in the way go figure, but it was easy enough. I had enough room, i just moved it over to the side a little bit just being sure, because this is a remote, i mean a coiled bulb. You don't want that in the air stream, because this is supply air right here. One set of heaters is at five: amps got one set right there and then one set over here. So i'm gon na get on this one now and the other set is at five amps too. I don't know if there's more heaters or not we're gon na have to start disassembling the evaporator fan, blades and stuff and then get the ice, get it turned off and then get the ice melted with a hose and then we'll investigate. If there's more heaters or not all right, when we're doing this, you want to make the least amount of a mess as possible, especially on walk-ins that have raised floors.
That floor is lifting up. That's the result of water or something getting underneath the floor. Then it freezes and lifts up, so you always want to be careful, so um be smart about it. When you pull the fan, guards put the screws back in without stripping them out.
It's the key that way, because this is a giant drain pin and that water will start dripping out of every one of those holes. So we're going to attempt to defrost this from the inside we're going to attempt to leave the motors in because i'm going to use my wand that has a very low pressure setting and we'll be able to defrost it from the inside out. And hopefully we don't have to defrost it from out here, but you can see that the defrost already is working. So it's about time that we go up on the roof and uh turn off the power permanently and get the water hose ram.
Now again always trying to be thorough, not make a mess. This thing's drain was plugged up and it had a bunch of cardboard stuck in there, but it's in a really awkward place to get to. So what i ended up doing was going to get my tool that i had made. I made this a long time ago to blow out drains, and i just used my tubing bender and put a bend on it, and i was able to get right down into here like that boom blow out the drain and all is well, and i made a Very minimal mess so now we're going to go ahead and continue with the ice in this guy, so i just finished defrosting it and i found the culprit.
Here's the cause, the limit switch. Do you see how the top is swollen out of it same thing over here? That's gon na be your defrost termination and those limit switches are bad, so we're gon na bypass them temporarily. So that way they don't short out and then we'll order new ones, but we'll get them through the weekend. So, as i showed a minute ago, the walking cooler you have to walk through that to get in here to the walk-in freezer.
Look at these fan blades they're covered in dirt, which means that the cooler and the freezer door are being propped open for dirt to be able to make it all the way into here. To this coil so, and i've been washing dirt off, looks like there's a little bit more than i need to get, but i've been washing dirt off the entire time. I've been defrosting this thing so they're definitely leaving the doors open which isn't helping with the bad limit switches. Then it's not defrosting properly notice. In a few things, i'm about ready to turn this back on, but this condenser fan motor keeps running backwards and what's happening is when it i got it to spin the right direction, but i believe we have a failed capacitor and of which we will look into In a little bit, but what intrigues me is, i only see one capacitor, but we have two condenser fan motors, so i'm interested to know where the second capacitor is. I don't know if some dodo had strapped it to the motor or what it's always a possibility. We have a failed capacitor too, but that is actually going the wrong direction. It's not blowing air out, but i'm not going to worry too much about that right now.
We will get to it for right now. We're gon na finish this we're gon na. Take all these goofy defrosts out that i put in there, so it looks like 7, 12 12. looks like we'll put another set of defrost right here: okay and it's currently 4 33.
So that's 13! 14. 15. 16.. I'm not an expert at military time! There we go all right um, i guess we got ta go 30 there you go and we're ready to turn this guy on.
So we're back in cooling mode. Now i will be coming back because we're going to be bringing those limit switches and we'll dive into everything else, this clock - the customer - has no way of turning this off unless they come up and turn the main off or they turn off the main breaker, which They don't so. This should have the perfect time on it. When i come back, uh i'll be back in about a day or two and then we'll be replacing this contactor and kind of going from there all right we are back today, um box is working good.
Nice and cold like it should be it's frosty, but that's fine, evaporator fan motors we're gon na finish up. We got new limit switches for it. New contactor we're gon na try to knock out as much as possible. I don't know if i'm gon na get to this p-trap or not we'll see.
That is not my major priority, but we'll see the defrost clock has the right time on it. So that's a good thing, so we don't need to worry about that. Um walk-in freezer is system g, we're gon na, go ahead and shut that off and then get downstairs and change those limit switches. Okay, we got the new limit switches in and uh.
We went ahead and replaced the fan delay too right there, so we're putting it in there. We got it in defrost testing everything right now um. I am not going to do that p-trap today. We're going to talk him into letting me do that.
We'll quote that, because trying to glue the trap, i tried to make a trap and it's just going to be a nightmare trying to glue it so we're going to just cut the refrigeration lines and insulate it properly. Um, but that'll be another day. So we're going to let this thing run for a minute, then we've got to go up onto the roof and figure out. What's going on with that condenser fan motor and that compressor contactor. So i noticed yesterday this motor is spinning backwards, but what's interesting is if you stop it and then turn it on it'll go the right direction. So, that's why i'm thinking we might have a bad capacitor, but i need to find it because there's only one cap here and i don't know if that's the cap for this motor or for that motor, so we got ta dive into that pulling this thing apart. This is actually broken. Look at that the blade's got a crack in it.
My apprentice noticed that before me, so um, probably just gon na go ahead and change this whole motor. It's a piece of junk uh, but i got to get a blade for it too. So that blade is so hot. The motor's steaming we're definitely changing the motor there's, probably going to be some kind of bearing damage inside or something from the amount of heat that's going on in there um.
So i'm gon na go to the supplies. I have one of these motors in my truck, but the blade is the tricky thing. So i'm gon na go try to find a blade right now and then we'll get back here and change this guy. All right, we got the old motor out.
I did get a new blade, it's exact it just has a universal hub, which is no big deal this guy right here. Okay, now something i want to point out, as i was thinking about it, i said you know, the motor may have bad bearings the fact that the blade was cracked. It's been running with a cracked blade for a very long time that wobble that that can happen with that can damage the bearings of the motor and that's the main reason now uh the fact that the motor was running backwards too. That's probably just a capacitor, but still i don't want to chance it we're gon na put a new blade, new motor new capacitor and call it a day on this guy, so we're gon na get this guy slammed in there.
That's the old one, the new one down there i like going in with the us motors. I don't really care for these mars motors um, not that i've ever had a mars motor really do me any bad or any wrong. I'm just super comfortable and i use the us motors a lot. So all right this is my new motor uh three quarter horsepower.
You always want to make sure when you pull it out, that the shaft spins and that there's no markings on the shaft to make sure nobody returned this motor and it's not a bad one. Now this is a universal motor and because of the orientation we're going to mount it like this, we need to pull these rubber plugs out the bottom. Those are weave plugs in case condensation or moisture ever built up in the motor. That way, it will have a way to drain out of the motor and the motor won't just sit there and collect all the condensation.
Now with that being said, we're gon na leave the top ones in because you don't want water dripping into it makes sense. Okay, so this guy comes with a little rain, slinger on it or a rain guard. That's fine! Uh we're gon na go with a three wire setup on this one, so the brown and white is gon na be capped off. If you look right here, brown, white and black, and then the brown and white uh, let's see brown and white stripe - is gon na, be capped off so um yeah. That's it we're gon na slap, this guy in all right motor fits in nice and good um. The shaft looks like it's gon na be fine as far as the the guard, i'm hoping we'll find out in a minute when we put the guard back on, but i think it's gon na be okay, which i prefer not to have to cut this and what I was talking about with the bearings earlier is because of that crack. The thing starts to vibrate and it can start resonating and it can very easily those those bearings it doesn't take much to damage them so that then the motor was overheating more than likely because of a bad capacitor which we'll check in a minute. I'm just going to change the whole setup here, so we are doing a three wire setup.
So we took the brown and white wire and capped it off because it's not being used and then we're gon na connect to the existing wiring right here, which is just three wires: white black and brown. So we'll connect to that. We're going to do quick, connects and we'll zip tie everything up. Nice and neat all right got the old cap right here.
This is a 15 microfarad cap and it's testing at four microfarads. So more than likely that's why the motor was spinning backwards because of the failed cap, but we've got a new one in there. Now we're gon na go ahead and wire this guy up, and we got a test current on this motor. We're allowed to run 4.7 amps, so we're going to turn it on here in just a second all right, so we're allowed to run 4.7 amps and we're running almost an amp over at 5.6 um.
I have the right voltage. I have the right capacitor. The pitch is right: the pitch is identical on the blade. This is the identical motor in this one right here, and it has the older blade and uh it's running where it's supposed to be under current this one's over current.
So i'm wondering, even though the blade is the same, i'm wondering i mean there's some slight differences, but the pitch is the same so, but it is like a tad bit wider as far as uh the blades themselves. So on this one, that blade is like a quarter inch and a quarter inch wider from here to here. Also, the material in the blade is different. This seems like aluminum and that's like a steel blade.
It's a lot heavier uh, so it's gon na be fine. For now i don't you don't ever wan na leave things like this, but this happens to be a uh um, a variable motor, that's actually about to turn off and i'll, probably go by the. We have a specialized motor shop near us, i'll, probably go by there and uh talk to them about it. So we'll set this guy about 80. it'll - probably shut off here in a few minutes, because i think it's barely 80 outside right now, so we're gon na. Let this guy run for now. I don't like running at over amps, but it's not too far and, like i said we'll we'll talk about getting a different blade on there, maybe um, but at least it's something for now all right, we're back. So i had originally gotten this one, which was a 33 on the pitch and we went down to a 27 so we're going to try that and see.
If that helps us drop the current down all right moment of truth, let's see what happens there, we go. That's what i'm talking about 3.6 amps we're allowed to run 4.7. So it's all about that pitch, so much much better. Okay, we got to put the guard on now and then once we put the guard on we'll be done with this guy all right, my rack is back together.
Everything's good um got the right blade on there all as well. The freezer itself was down to temperature. The customer's happy, this rack, definitely is on its way out. This condenser is uh rotting away.
Man, that's going to be a a headache when we have to change that entire condenser, because everything's still on the rack, so they have three walk-ins uh one, two, three refrigeration, compressors too, it's a lot of stuff in there. So this was a saturday afternoon. Evening-Ish service call um. Of course i had plans had somewhere to be, but you know that's life when you're on call.
If you do make plans, you just assume that you're not going to make it you know. So my wife and my kids ended up going out to like a festival without me, and you know it is what it is. It sucks, but it's just something you got to learn to deal with so got out there and the walk-in freezer was iced up. That has to be one of the more common things that happens on refrigeration systems.
It seems like my hoses, are one of my number one used items when i'm defrosting coils, i'm a professional defroster, is what i am. I just go around defrosting stuff, but um. We found the cause okay, so obviously i turned the system into defrost. Troubleshooted from there found that it had bad limit switches.
Um, you know, bypass them temporarily. Remove the x terminal started the system back up, got the got the equipment operational for the weekend and then came back out, but i didn't just stop there. You know looking at everything the contactor was in really bad shape and the condenser fan motor um. I noticed it was spinning backwards, but then i dug deeper and actually my apprentice noticed it before me so good on him, but it had a cracked blade.
He noticed it before. He even took the guard off. As i was editing the video i was looking at it going, you know i looked right at that cracked blade. When i was editing you could see it before.
We even came back the next time to change it. You know, but anyway, so um. We went ahead and changed that, but again you don't just slap in a motor and call it a day. You know we tested current on it, which you should always do when you're changing fan motors uh, anything you install or repair. You always want to test current on the different components in there and we found that the unit was actually over amping by a single amp, almost and uh. We just had the wrong pitch blade and what was interesting was i had gone to my local supply house. That was near the location and you know they handed me a blade and i didn't get out my pitch tool because i have an actual blade pitch tool. It's buried in my van because i rarely ever use it, but i do have a tool that i would have been able to verify the pitch.
I just took the supply house's word. I put the blade on top. It looked pretty good, but in hindsight, when i compared the the two blades, they actually were quite different, so we ended up going with a different blade drop the pitch down and we were running where we should be. We were able to.
You know get the system back and operational and everything was good now. I really really wanted to redo that suction line p-trap, but that was just going to end up being too difficult. I'm certainly not an insulator when it comes to making those things. Look really nice and neat and that one would have bothered me a lot, because the insulation is the first thing you see when you walk into that walk-in freezer and that kind of stuff just drives me nuts.
So we just left it iced up like that. For now it's something we're gon na have to take care of, but it's just not something we're addressing on this one, so we'll definitely bring it up in the future um and then uh. Actually, i was on the phone with the facilities director for this location today and she's uh. Basically just told me that you know, because i told her the condenser is rotting out on this thing and she's like well.
Let's start yanking the condensers out, so they want to eliminate that rack completely and just go with standalone condensing units so we'll end up. We already have one unit pulled out of the rack, we'll end up start pulling everything out of the rack and get rid of that entire condensing unit. It'll probably end up staying there to be honest with you, because uh we would have to get well we'll see we'll see how far they want to go, because if they want to do it right, they'll have to get electricians to pull new circuits for everything um, Which i don't know if they have room in their panels for all that, because they'd have to add one two, three four foot like six, three, four three, i think three three phase breakers and then three single phase, 208 volt breakers, so they'll need two poles and I don't know that they have the room in their panels for that, so we might end up just leaving the rack on the roof either they can run a sub panel to the roof or they can just use the breakers that are in the rack. You know we just got to make sure, though, with the new condensing units and stuff. If we start replacing them, they're, probably going to require uh. You know rather large circuit breakers, because the condensing units are going to have compressors and condenser fan motors in them versus this one. The breaker only controls the compressors, and then they have separate breakers for the condenser fan motor. So that's a whole nother problem.
For another day, that's dealing with restaurants and you know getting rid of these common racks. They they don't like using the common racks just because of the headaches that they create so and sometimes it's nice to get rid of them. But i do have to say, like i, like, i like the cold zone racks because they tend to oversize their condensers on them and they always go oversized for the most part on their refrigeration components. But it is kind of difficult to climb back into that rack.
To change dryers and stuff, that is a little inconvenient, uh changing head pressure. Control valves can be kind of frustrating too, but anyways. That's a project for the winter time, we'll get on that one. So um, nothing too crazy.
With this one again, just always double checking everything and always obviously looking at the big picture. Okay, if i haven't said it already or if you haven't heard me say it already, please uh remember that i do live streams on monday evenings 5 p.m. Pacific work permitting as long as i can get off work in time and then i also go live on the hvac overtime, youtube channel. We do a live stream with my buddies, adam joe and bill and myself and we go live friday evenings about 605 pm.
So you definitely want to check that out too. Okay um. I really really appreciate you guys. You are so amazing.
Your guys's support is awesome. Do me a favor leave me some feedback down in the comments. Let me know what you think and uh yeah. That's it guys uh, we'll catch you on the next one: okay,.
I've found using an actual shaft water slinger is better than those cheap ones that come on the new motors. The ones I use are plastic and they are around 3-4 inch in diameter. You could have raised the blade up on that shaft of the new motor to reduce the amps being drawn until you got the proper sized blade. Remember the blade is what determines HP and volume of air. Good job on getting them going! Service area Barrhaven??
As an electrical engineer, I am not knowledgeable about HVAC but I totally enjoy watching your videos for the troubleshooting satisfaction.
would it be 'more' correct to say the motor wasn't starting because of the bad cap, because it wasn't starting it would spin backwards because the other motor is running and pulling air past it instead of pulling air through the coil?
good job you know what your doing.
Felt the same about defrosting. Professional defroster and high price cleaning specialist.
Miss the noise though.
in the next installation try out the Daikin zeas inverter condensing units
Drugs are bad…. Are you in Kanata ?
thumbs up for the intro ๐
Very good
Those contactors look like absolute death traps compared to the ones we see here in Australia
Hahahaha nice mechanic look…..oh nice Crain. Must be technics ? Service area Nepean??
They were mentioned 8reifly in HVACR overtime show and now they're popping up everywhere.
Pls make a video of putting new condensing units Are you in Barrhaven ?
Im loving the character shot there with the beard. Maybe keep the look
Thats insane, ive driven myself crazy with an over amping motor and i didnt even think to check the pitch of the new blade…
Someone put this thermostat in the way!? Think about the next guy…
It was me that put it in the way…Go figure! Lmao
Audio sync ๐
Getting sloppy Chris ๐คฃ
Good little vid , lot's of info … Thx …
Nice job and video like always
what's is your wrist watch Service area Orleans??
Hi mate, you should know, when on call, put on You Tube, sit back, and watch videos of other techs working, as I am doing, right now.
Good job on the diagnosis of the defrost termination switches, quite common on older evap coils. do you get many contactor failures working with 220 volts ? We use 415 volts, and generally they seem to last well. With a motor like that, I put waterproof heat shrink in the shaft, so you can get the blade off in future.
Thanks for the show, looking forward to your next adventure.
You could always go with a stand a lone electrical sub board on the roof.
Phenomenal vid thank you
I'd be willing to bet that dirt on the fan blades is mostly built up cardboard dust.
I work with people on call and sometimes, they'll take a weekend and have a coworker cover a couple hours.
Worn out, crazy, mechanic… Best opening clip ever!!
I appreciate LAU Industries products, but their universal propellers, (otherwise known as fan blades) are sooo heavy.
Our local US air Distributors has an unbelievably large inventory of propellers from two blade all the way up to five blade and they are the lightweight ones. Of course they are OEM products, but I have always been able to match the blade I need to be replaced with one of theirs. So, I have given up using the Universal LAU props.
I really have nothing interesting to ad !thatโs my comment
Racist against mechanics haha
I keep being amazed by the range of plumbing, physics, chemistry, electrics and electronics expertise that goes into keeping these things in working order, a veritable one-stop all-round STEM occupation. Thank you for sharing with us!
Great lesson,thanks bro
The 1st minute was Hilarious. You need to go on vacation
Does anyone know what kind of watch he wears?
Your so huliorous bro .. lol ๐ Seriously though id would love to be able to work with you…
You should put that on your business card "Professional defroster" XD
Hiring Professional Defrosters. That's an interesting want-ad.
They should teach that course at technical school s. Service area Kanata??
Tasty tidbit.
To convert normal time to military time, add 12 if it is between 1pm and 11pm. If its midnight, it's all zeros.
To convert military time to normal time, subtract 12 if there is no leading 0 (0100, 0700, etc). If there is a leading 0, remove the 0.
Source: I work at a tv station. All we use is military time
Cannot say homeless it is โunhousedโ. ๐
Start using phrases like "Ya durn galoot", "Dagnab it!", and "Consarn it!" and you'll have the grizzled prospector persona and look down pat.
I love what you do, it help me with my daily task with checking storage Unit Composer and evaporator, but I hope seeing you working with Thermo King or Carrier. much love from KSA Are you in Orleans ?
Curious how the different blade pitches affected head pressure
hey Chris. Don't know if you could see what we saw through the camera but the first new fan was a different height visually in the video vs the original that was running next to it. (taller= more pitch)
Great video,thanks for the instruction on the pitch with regards to the condenser fan blade. Are you in Ottawa ?
The Big picture mentality serves you well.. its some thing iv adopted more and more since starting my business. Keep up the good work dude.
Those high ambient "Mojave" motors are the best.
There surely must be a term when past you does something to fck present-day you…lol
Also, why does all the rooftop equipment look like it was hit with an exploding oil can?
+1 nice