One thing turns into another right, so we were just talking right now and we noticed that this walk-in freezer compressor hasn't ran. So we went downstairs and the box is at 25 degrees and then, as we're talking, this one goes off on high pressure bypass where the internal pressure relief started, bleeding the pressure from one side to the other. We have an extremely hot discharge line and this guy just restarted. I have a feeling it's going off on high pressure, and then we open this up, because this condenser fan motor is not running and there's actually an electrical short in there.

This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. Well, this morning we have a call that a walk-in cooler is not working, and i don't know if you guys can hear that. But to me it sounds like it's low on gas. You can hear the expansion valves feeding the way they are.

We don't see any ice, no ice on the coils and the thermostat says 51 degrees, so that thermostat controls a solenoid valve that tells the system to turn on. So, judging by the sound that i'm hearing we're low on refrigerant, so we're gon na get up onto the roof and see what's going on up there, making an assumption that it's low on gas. So i came out to my van to grab a drummer refrigerant before i go into the roof, but before i do that, i typically don't take my scale on the roof. I'll just weigh it down here.

So we're going to write 21 pounds you can see. I do that all the time, so we're right 21 pounds on here and then, when we're all done, we'll subtract the difference and find out how much gas we use all right done. A lot of work on racks like this one and this one in particular you come up. This is our walking cooler compressor.

It looks like someone left a thing up here. What the heck, um and the sight glass looks to be full, but it's actually more than likely completely empty, so we need to put some service gauges on this guy once we put gauges on it, it'll kind of - let us know, what's going on within the system Before you put on service gauges, you always want to investigate the system. So, first and foremost, i see some oil right here. It looks like it might be dried though, but when we track around to this side, i definitely see something going on here.

We've got a big oil stain, that's fresh oil all over this valve, and this is a newer receiver. There's no reason there should be oil coming from that unless something's not tight or you know who knows, but we always want to pay attention to that, because sometimes you can correct refrigerant leaks by just applying your service gauges. So you always want to be vigilant. We're quickly doing this before we take all the caps off, but i saw some oil on this too, so i sprayed it with some big blue.

I have a feeling, it's just very, very small leaks and i have a feeling these are not the source of the potential low refrigerant charge. I think that they're adding to it, but i bet you anything - we're going to find leaks in the evaporative coils, but this one right here. I want to show you something i haven't done anything to it yet and look at this boom, this guy's loose. So this guy is not even tight, which is definitely going to cause a problem that needs to be tight and you can see it leaking right.

There i'll put some big blue on there see. When i took it off, i could see a bubble bubble: yeah we're getting little micro bubbles, it's hard because it's vibrating, but we're getting little micro bubbles right in here. So this packing is definitely going bad on this one. So we definitely need to look into that, but at this point um i put some on the other one too, and i'm not seeing anything major, so we're gon na go ahead and apply the service gauges and finish our diagnosis all right.

So when we're applying service gauges, i know i'm using this wrench backwards, but there's no way to do it, plus we're not having to torque very hard, but you always want to loosen your packing just a little bit. Okay, um before you actuate this stem, because you can wear out the packing gland in there. So just ever so slightly loosen it, then you can actuate the the adjustment stems: okay, as we're applying service gauges when you actuate these valves, all right we want to. I guess you can say mid seat, but really we're just going to crack this valve just going to push the plunger this guy right here.

The stem down in there about one and a quarter turns okay and that's going to open the process port or the port. Coming out of it, so that way, our service gauges can read pressure. Okay, that's about it! You don't need to go any further than that. If you go too far, you're actually going to shut off the flow of refrigerant through that valve.

Okay, all right. So this is a 404 a system, it's currently about 65 degrees outside. So you can see my liquid saturation temperature, which is the condensing temperature. The temperature of the refrigerant in the middle of the condenser inside of it is at 62 degrees when it's like 65 degrees outside.

You should have approximately on this type of a system: 25 to 30 degree, temperature difference between outdoor ambient temperature and the saturation temperature. So we're clearly low on refrigerant now, remember i showed you the sight glass. It looks crystal clear because it's completely empty of refrigerant. Okay, that sight glass doesn't have liquid a solid column of liquid refrigerant, and that's why we heard that sound downstairs.

So we need to add refrigerant to this system, but we also need to find a refrigerant leak too um we're going to go ahead and shut the system down and do a quick leak check, see if we see anything obvious jumping out at us um and then We'll add refrigerant as uh necessary. All right we shut down the system and, what's actually happening, is the system's equalizing out, because the liquid line solenoid valve is still open downstairs, but we're going to speed that process up we're going to purge real, quick just to make sure we got any air out Of the lines and then we're going to go ahead and open up high side into low side, so we can equalize out the pressures. So we have you know high suction, high discharge and helping us with the leak search. So everything else is off and we're going to go ahead and get the leak detector out we're going to pull the covers for the condenser.

Do a quick leak search now, if there's a leak downstairs in the evaporator section, we can fix that by pumping the system down if there's a leak upstairs on the high side anywhere between the compressor discharge and the outlet of that receiver, we have to recover the Entire charge to fix that leak, so we're going to look for it. First, real quick on the high side just to make sure it's not a major leak on the high side and everything else can be repaired after the fact we can go ahead and top off the charge. You know and get them operational if need be. If it's downstairs doing a quick leak search, i'm not really seeing anything jumping out at me on the condenser.

You would think we would see some oil signs and stuff. I don't really see anything. Let's uh yeah, it's very minimal. What's on here, we also found that these guys were loose, which would definitely cause an intermittent leak, but i don't see anything else always check your pressure reliefs on your vessels receivers.

Okay, nothing there! So nothing's jumping out at me, um do a quick pass under this condenser. I'm not going to spend a bunch of time just to make sure. Now i have my leak detector on turbo. So it'll typically pick up quite a bit check around your flare joints.

You would see if it was leaking around the flare joint, because you would see oil all around it typically, but always check them just to be safe. I'm checking the bottom of the condenser. I it's not common to have leaks on these condensers, typically they're in the evaporative coils. This evaporative coil, i can tell you, is from i think 2003.

So it's an old system 05. Actually i just walked by it, so always check your pressure control high side. Nothing! Definitely picking up something up in that packing gland, but we also have the packing open. So that's always something to remember so on the field piece.

You remember it reads right here, but then it also reads on the light on the tip. So i like that, so we definitely have something going on there, but i have the packing open. So that's not completely unheard of all right. So there's that check that guy, i'm not seeing anything really on the high side.

Let's check down here where we saw this oil nah, nothing, okay! So at this point our leak is um, probably not going to be up here. It doesn't seem like it's in the condenser. I mean there's minute leaks on the valves. At this point, we have to get this system operational.

Now we're going to need to do a leak search downstairs too um, but uh we're gon na add gas to it, no matter what so, we've done leak repairs on this coil before i think i fixed leaks right on that when i changed that receiver and i Think i did another braze joint too, maybe on the other coil, but you always want the fans off when you're leak searching okay. So we're going to take our leak. Detector start at the bottom of the coil they'll pop out at the bottom. So the refrigerant falls.

Come over here there we go that that lighted tip makes it really nice. We definitely got something going on right over there. We need to get some at this point, get some soap bubbles on it, but you don't just assume that one leak is the problem. You keep tracing yeah.

I i suspect, we're gon na start having a lot of leaks on this coil because um once it starts leaking, you know the joints start leaking on. Everything really should replace it, but we'll see all right. We got some viper big blue on there, our refrigeration technologies big glue, whatever you want to call it um and right down here right down in there. We've got bubbles for sure, and i can actually hear it leaking out.

So we're going to keep going we're actually picking up leaks on the other coil too, so we'll jump in on that one with some big blue and try to pinpoint them okay. So this side has multiple leaks too same thing: viper, big blue right up there, that micro, cluster of bubbles is elite, looks like maybe there's one down here at the bottom too, possibly, and then there's definitely one right over here. So we've got multiple, multiple leaks. It seems to be at the same spots we'll mark those we're checking the other side of the evaporator coils too.

These are all repairable. Customer really should consider replacing this coil, but i think we're going to put some welds on these just for now. So on this second coil i marked it. We have a leak right there with the sharpie pointing down.

We have a leak right at the bottom of that tube right there. Then we have a leak right at the bottom of that tube right there and then also up there, and i marked that one too. So then, we're gon na go over to the other coil mark those ones funny. It's almost leaking in the same spot.

So right on this guy down on the back side, it's kind of hard to see, but there's a micro cluster of bubbles back there then right down there on that distribution tube, then actually right up here on this distribution tube too. So i marked it so this coil has three leaks. The other one has four leaks. I think so what a mess? Okay, we're gon na pump this guy down.

So we need to close both of these guys because they were equalized out and then we're going to turn on the compressor and then we're going to front seat suction service valves. On the other side, i mean on the receiver, we're going to front seat the king valve all right. So that's that we're gon na do here is turn this guy on there. You go it's running now and then we come over here and we need to front seat this king valve all right in front seating.

The king valve right. What you want to do is you want to actuate the packing so the packing's loose all right now, when you actuate the packing, it is going to leak, guys and notice. There's a little bit of oil coming from this that packing was already loose. Actually, that's part of the reason, probably but then verify this is on tight.

If you don't have a gauge hose on there, which i don't so and we're just gon na front seat, the king valve, which is drive the valve stem all the way in and then what that's going to do is stop the refrigerant flow. Coming out of that valve, so now the refrigerant will not pass past this point right here and the compressor keeps pumping until the suction pressure gets lower and lower than it finally shuts off you come over here, so the refrigerant flow has stopped coming out of the Receiver, which that liquid line goes to the solenoid valve expansion valve and then it uh, you know, comes back up on the suction line. The high side in the compressor isn't gon na leak through, but check this out see see how it's i don't know. If you guys can see that yeah, it's bubbling right now, because it leaks out the packing okay, so high side, low side, low side right now is about to turn back on.

You can actually actuate it by sticking a screwdriver right in here, get it to turn back on, but it'll turn back on here in a sec. So the compressor is not allowing gas to pass through inside of the scroll assembly right so um and it's not turning on so we're gon na have to go ahead and uh actuate it. I just stick my screwdriver into the bellows very carefully push up. It's going to pull down, but you don't want to pull a scroll into a vacuum.

It's pumping down right now, right about there 3 psi and then we're going to let it sit, don't see anything major, it's not rising anymore. So what we need to do is actually open up the low side and vent the remaining pressure into the atmosphere. Okay, that's considered a de minimis loss because we have to have a place for the pressure. That's going to build up when i braise on the system to go, so you always leave that off when you're brazing on a pump down system.

All right getting into some of these spots is pretty tight to sand it appropriately, and we want to have the best surface possible. So i have two different tools. I take a fitting brush and for a drill break it off. I mean for a you, know: copper fitting put it in the drill and then also i have the dremel tool we'll get in there with both whatever fits best the situation and try to clean up those brace joints, never going to be perfect, but it's better than It was sanded it pretty good in there same thing over here, pretty good in there down here was really difficult to get to, but we'll get in there and get them braised up we're working on the other side right now, just because of the amount of leaks We're just going to go ahead and braise up, there's only two distribution tubes per side, we're going to braise them, both even the ones that aren't leaking, because uh they're all just leaking over time.

It seems like so got them pretty much sanded up as best as possible. Again, this is the hardest one: we're going to clean them up, dry them up and then get in there with the torch and lay a couple beads on them all right, we're just going to heat them up and lay a bead on them, using a small tip. Doing it a little different, because i don't want to overheat it, so i'm just laying a bead on there and then we'll melt it all into it like that. Backside is going to be kind of tricky, but it's glowing there.

We go there's one again doing the same thing, just laying a bead on there and then we're gon na. Let it melt into it just so we don't overheat. It cause a bigger problem here, see it flexible, make sure it takes back. I think they're good.

Okay, now these tricky ones is these ones without burning the entire thing hello, it looks like it might have been brazed on before two laying solder on the top, letting the heat pull it down this one's kind of the hardest from the other side. Okay, that's it for this side. Now it's tricky! These aren't perfect, but got a lot of solder on each one of those joints should be much better than it was also soldered. These joints like crazy same right there and we're going to cool them off and jump onto the other side.

So we lay a bunch of goobers on the top, it's a little different than what they teach you in school and then we heat it up from the bottom and let it drip down in situations where it's hard to get to that's a good little trick to Make sure that you get good solder flow so that one's good, the bottom one's going to be the trickiest kind of the same thing, just uber it on the top get plenty of solder on there and then it'll flow with the heat. Now, as we bring the heat down to the bottom should be good now, the last side, all right, so this side's good now some breeze joints all corners, make sure we didn't blow any holes in the line, we'll inspect them all and then we'll get upstairs change. The dryer and evacuate the system all right, so we're going to use some mechanical advantage here. What we're going to do is use the wrenches against themselves.

Okay, so i can do one-handed. Well, maybe not all right, two hands yeah and that thing comes apart. Yeah you got ta be smart about it. Try to use the wrenches in the right direction if possible; okay, so sometimes you got ta flip them around, but majority of the time and music in the right direction.

So nothing wrong with this sight. Glass. It's fairly new. Just swap out the dryer again same thing: mechanical advantage just use the wrenches, sometimes i'll use my canipix wrenches, but i find that the adjustables are a little bit easier for this.

So what i'll actually do is use the ground there. We go pull this apart. Again. That's what i love about the spoiling catch-all and see all this male female.

I dig it. You got to make sure, though, that that copper bushing's in there, because that's what seals it from refrigerant leaks all right, so we're going to take a little bit of nylog right here. Easy peasy just put a drop right here. Not much don't get it in! You want the dryer pointing towards the sight glass in most cases.

Now it's not always going to match up it kind of is what it is on that i'm not too worried about that, and then we're going to use the mechanical advantage again of the wrenches to kind of just put them together there we go good quarter. Turn past snug all right, so now we're good dryer's, pointing into the side glass we'll make sure that the side glass is pointing that way. We're going to go ahead and take a drop of nylon right here, drop a dialog right here and then the most important place for the nylon is actually right on. This flare nut right here on the mating surface, where it spins that really really helps just like that.

Do it snug mechanical advantage again. Did you hear the torque wrench click? Is my elbow clicked? Okay, all right dryer's in it's torqued down as tight as it should go now. It's always best to use a torque wrench guys. I don't use one i probably should but um, i kind of know.

What's tight and what's not tight enough, i'd be kind of curious to check myself against a torque wrench but anyways. It's all torqued in uh. We're ready to go, get all the tools to pull the evacuation. Now all right.

I am going to pull my evacuation through my gauges. It's not, you know the best way to pull a vacuum, but in this situation we have a pump down system and i've said this many times, you're never going to achieve a perfect vacuum, we're only pulling on the low side. The compressor is not 100 leak free. Nor are any of those valves that are blocking off the refrigerant flow on the king valve.

Okay, we're not gon na see 500 microns on this guy. It's just how it is all right, there's also an argument to be made that technically, there's probably still oil boiling out of the oil right now. So i mean refrigerant, so you know you're still probably displacing oxygen from entering the system, but still we're we're gon na. Do our best to pull a vacuum? Um got the gas ballast open for now pulling through the vacuum port.

We do not want to open the high side port because um that will allow refrigerant to flow into the gauge manifold, and that's the other thing too. This valve right here is not 100 leak free either. So when you've got pumped down systems, you're never going to get a perfect vacuum even on a non-plumbed down system on an old system with refrigerant in the oil, it's going to be really hard to completely dehydrate. That oil just do your best, let the let the dryer do its work too.

Once the system starts back up, so i was just explaining this evacuation process and i want to clarify something. If we try to pull a perfect vacuum when the system is pumped down, the refrigerant is stopped at that king valve over there and it's stopped inside the compressor okay. But we have high side pressure on the the discharge line. It's not showing because we're pulling into sub micron levels, but we have high side pressure right here.

We are ever so slightly pulling that refrigerant out of the system. As we speak right now. Okay, it is not a hundred percent leak free. If we tried to pull a perfect evacuation, we could come back in two days because this would take forever, but the system would be completely out of refrigerant, even though it's pumped down, because eventually it will pull through the king valve, it will pull through the compressor.

Ever so slightly, okay, so that's why i'm saying we're never gon na get a perfect vacuum on a pumped down system. Okay, one thing turns into another right, so we were just talking right now and we noticed that this walk-in freezer compressor hasn't ran. So we went downstairs and the box is at 25 degrees and then, as we're talking, this one goes off on high pressure bypass where the internal pressure relief started, bleeding the pressure from one side to the other. We have an extremely hot discharge line um and this guy just restarted.

I have a feeling it's going off on high pressure, and then we open this up, because this condenser fan motor is not running and there's actually an electrical short in there. It's not running at the moment, but right here boom there's an electrical short, so we have a multiple issue here. We got some problems so we're going to shut off this rack the rest of the way and look into that. Condenser fan motor right now, all right.

So we turned off power and we get in here and it looks like that wire shorted and it looks like it just shorted inside yeah, just that one. So i bet you anything. We're gon na have a blown fuse and uh. This nut had come off too.

So we'll definitely connect that back. I have a feeling we're just gon na have a blown fuse. So, let's come on over here, we'll grab a meter and uh we'll take a look at these fuses right here for motor one and motor two and i'm pretty confident we'll have a blown fuse on one of them. So put your meter on tone and test across the fuses yep.

Let's see what we get good fuse good fuse good fuse, ooh, all good fuses, that's weird! So why isn't that motor running? That's interesting! Okay! So let's go ahead and uh come on back over here and what we're gon na do is we'll disconnect this motor from these points. I wonder if it broke the wire completely in there. I don't think it broke it completely, but let's go ahead and disconnect this strip it back to here and we'll check, voltage and then we'll see and the motor doesn't feel too bad it's kind of tight, but we need to check voltage out here. So let's get the wire tape off: let's get this connected, uh stripped back to here, cut off and then we're going to test voltage and then we'll test the motor again all right.

We got it reconnected and it's running now, but the bearings are bad in the motor. Don't know if you can hear that, but they're whining they're bad, so we're gon na go ahead and change that motor go ahead and kill the power. More than likely. We've been shutting off on high pressure on everything else and didn't even know.

What are the odds that we had a refrigerant link on this one and then high pressure on those ones, and we didn't even know yet, but this really comes to paying attention to where you're at you know we're up here the whole time - and it's like why Hasn't this walk-in freezer turned on, you know it's something you want to pay attention to, and then this one went off on pressure relief. You know where it was bypassing, so we're gon na go and get this motor swapped out. I have when i keep these truck. These motors, in my van but what's interesting, is i still don't know what caused this motor not to run, because once we powered it up and heard it, you could hear bearings going bad in it, but if it was a bearing that was making it not work.

The motor would be overheating, so it's interesting - i still don't know what's going on here and i kind of want to change those fuses too just for giggles, because of that electrical short that we saw um but anyways we're gon na get the motor swapped out and Then we'll uh finish troubleshooting from there all right, so someone has the universal hub put on backwards, which is kind of silly, so we're having to pull it off um. If you put the universal hub on the correct way, you can just pop the blade off and don't even worry about the hub and you'll, see what i mean when we put ours in, but all right now we're going to get this guy off. So what you want to do is take a crescent wrench on the top and spin the blade while holding the shaft while pulling up on the blade it'll ever so slightly move up higher and higher. Now do you have the allen's completely loosened so that way it can spin freely there.

You go just make sure they're enough to work and spin freely. That should be enough and then now you should be able to grab the top of that shaft with that crescent wrench and spin the blade on there and then pull up on it as you're spinning, and you see it's moving slowly slowly, slowly keep doing that there. You go probably got it enough now, just grab the blade with two hands. No, let me see that crescent wrench.

I can get it from down here now. When you get to the top you might oh hold on, you might run into a problem. There you go now. You got it.

Okay, so we'll put the the this guy on the right side, we'll get the screws out. Although we do have a new universal hub but get those screws out and then we'll uh mount the new motor in there too, all right now we want to get this motor out, but because there's wires on both sides, we can't just pull the motor straight up Because it's going to hit if the motor wires were all on one side, it'd be super easy. But what we need to do is we're actually going to have to loosen up one of these ears. We loosen up one of these ears.

Then you can bend it and pull everything out, but you're still gon na have to pull the the pinch point over here is that where it's at yeah yeah, you're gon na have to pull that bolt out, then pull one of these loose from those screws up Top down to the bottom, then, you can pry that out of the way and pull the motor out all right now that you got it you're going to need to pry those arms and twist the motor around, so the wires go out the right hole there. You go you're twisting it to the other side, be careful, dropping it down on the condenser, now keep in mind. You're gon na have wires over here too. So it's always a chore here.

You can try cutting these. It's going to be tight, though, still got to get that little bit up. It was a little too difficult to take out so we're going to pull that other arm too, so that we can pry it open a little bit more and hopefully get it out told you we'd win all right this new one, even though it's not my favorite Motor in the world, all the wires are on one side, so it'll go in a lot easier. This is a century motor, so i prefer the us motors the mojave ones, but it is what it is.

This is what we got for today, all right, so we're going to go ahead and mount or mark the universal hub where we want it. Does it not spin? Oh there, you go, okay, go ahead and drop it down, we're going to find the perfect placement and then we'll mark it with a marker. Once we get the perfect placement, so go ahead and drop. It way down way down way down.

Yeah you're gon na wan na okay, so go up just a hair about right. There i think, looks pretty good to me and then down here looks pretty good, so go ahead and remove the blade and then we'll go ahead and mount this guy. We can even mark it and we'll make sure that we're on the flats too. So so we've got.

It marked that's about the right spot and we got ta make sure that the allen screws are gon na go on the flat of the shaft and they are you don't want it to push down on this bottom part where it's not flat anymore. Okay. So that's perfect right. There we're gon na, go and mount that and then we'll put the blade on.

So we ended up cutting the shaft because it was hitting the top of the fan guard. Okay, so take the sandpaper and run it lengthwise, like you're sanding, a piece of pipe there you go and just sand the top we're just getting the ridge off just on the top there you go just like that. Just keep doing that. Okay! That should be good.

Now, let's put that top on and make sure it fits now perfect plenty of room uh to cut the shaft we just used. A band saw super easy to get in there not very violent on the bearings on the motor or anything they say that i mean. I use angle grinders for years, but they say that the angle grinders can actually damage the bearings in the motor. I don't know if that's true or not, but i just use the sawzall anymore, all right.

We're nearing the end of the change out of the motor. So we can't turn the system on until we have the motor changed. I turned off. The vacuum pump isolated these hoses, so this is technically my decay again, you're, never going to obtain a perfect vacuum on a pump down system.

Okay, so that's why i didn't bother to go, get all my big fancy, hoses and stuff, because we're only pulling through the low side anyways and i let it run for a good hour. So this is, to my satisfaction, we're fine. So i'm gon na go ahead and start cleaning up the vacuum pump and everything and we're just getting ready to turn this guy on. We know we're gon na have to add gas, so went ahead and hooked up the 404a.

Remember we waited downstairs purged it up to here. Everything's closed evacuation, slowly rising, but that's fine um. This guy's all finished up we're just going to put the covers on and everything and get ready to uh turn. The fan motors on then turn this system on all right got the fuses changed out.

We're gon na turn this guy on it's running in the right direction. Both of them are running. We're allowed to run 4.7 amps. Let's see what we're at 3.6 3.5.

So we're fine on our current. Let's check the other motor too should be approximately the same. Yeah 3.9. We're allowed to run 4.7, so those guys are good.

Condenser fan motors are good. Now we can continue on with our repairs all right power's on so we're gon na go and open up the king valve. Let the refrigerant flow through and then we'll go over to the other side and uh start adding refrigerant, which i'm sure we're still gon na. Be low because we haven't added any right, so this guy can get open all the way, we'll make sure we fix that packing and we'll tighten on these caps really tight.

I don't know if i showed it too, but when i pulled this guy out there was oil in it still a little drop, so we'll make sure we get that on really tight and uh currently right here and we're flashing like crazy. So we need to go ahead and start by clearing the sight, glass and then we're gon na add the extra refrigerant we need for our flooded charge too. All right, i've added some refrigerant and the sight glass is kind of going from clear to flashing. Now, if we did not have any extra low ambient components in this system, a clear sight glass would be all that we need, but because we have a head pressure control valve once we get that sight glass, clear, we're going to have to add extra refrigerant so That way, when it's really cold outside and it tries to flood the condenser, we have the extra refrigerant needed to do so.

I've got lots of videos explaining the head pressure control valves, but essentially it's a valve inside here. It diverts the gas from the discharge directly into the receiver in low ambient conditions to help to maintain a pressure differential across the expansion valve, because when it gets really cold outside the head pressure drops and at certain times it can drop low enough that it won't Feed the refrigerant through the expansion valve properly and uh, it'll it'll cause issues and because the head pressure control valve dumps vapor into the receiver. If the receiver doesn't have a liquid seal in it or a liquid level at the bottom, just waiting for that vapor to push on the liquid, then it's going to feed vapor down to the expansion valve and you never want that. So when the head pressure, control valve, bypasses and dumps vapor into the receiver, you want it to be pushing down on the liquid.

That's in the bottom of the receiver, pushing the liquid to the expansion valve and not letting the vapor get to the expansion valve. All right we're pumping down right now and it actually just shut off at about 15 psi and it's slowly gon na rise and then turn back on a few times. While it gets all the vapor out of the oil of the refrigerant but a way to speed. This process up is it shut off at the moment, is simply just very carefully push up on the bellows of the pressure control i made it run and it's gon na pull down we'll, let it pull down to about five psi and then we'll shut it off.

We just kind of speed up the process here. That's about good all right now, notice that it will rise back up because the internal pressure relief in the compressor is not going to let it pump too low, but notice we're not going up too much more we're. Staying around 10 psi at this point, we've got the receiver king valve front seated. We need to check the liquid level because we ran a clear sight, glass and then i added a couple extra pounds and we're going to check to see if we're at the three-quarter mark.

If we're not we're going to keep adding gas - and i put a mark on it the last time i fixed this system - all right, so we've added gas, and you can clearly see that our liquid level is way below my mark. So this is the three-quarter mark right here and we're way down here. So we still need to add refrigerant we're only at about half the receiver. We still need to add a lot of gas to get it to the three-quarter mark.

Now we are gon na cheat right now we got ta be careful about this, but what we're gon na do is actually turn the system on and add gas to the low side, while it's bypassed at the pressure control. Now we got to be careful about doing this because i didn't want to open the system up and let it turn back on and wait for it to pump down again. But you got to be careful about this because uh we don't want it to um uh overheat, the compressor all right. We are just about there just a little bit more to go and we'll be right at the three-quarter mark, all right, easy, peasy.

There we go. We are now at the three-quarter mark. You can clearly see where the liquid level is at so we know we have the maximum amount of refrigerant in there, and i think it's really handy to mark that for the next guy. That way, he knows you left it.

There all right system is running, we tightened all the packing glands on every valve. We torqued the tops back on toward the quarter, inch ones on so everything's good. This guy's running its little heart away. In fact, everything else is running um, so we're probably gon na go downstairs.

Take a lunch. Let the box come down to temp, um and wrap this one up. I think we're actually we'll probably get out of here and then take a lunch after that, but um everything is well and we're just going to talk to the customer they're not going to. I know they don't want to change those coils right now, they're, really not in spending any extra money.

Then you know just repairs right now, so uh we'll just tell them. You know this is like the second time we've had to fix leaks on the coils. So you know eventually they're gon na need to be replaced, but for now i think we're good to go. It's gon na be a while, but it's 44 in the box right now and it's coming down.

But, like i told them, you know it'll be a couple hours, because everything in here is nice and warm and at the same time, that bad condenser fan motor that was affecting their walk-in freezer and their beer walking. They didn't even know that we found that, while we were here so took care of it on this one, but it's getting cold. So even if these service calls seem repetitive like you're fixing the same stuff over and over again, there's always a little something about them. You have to keep your eyes open, you know, um, there's, always new surprises in this situation.

You know it was just a refrigerant leak right and we found multiple leaks. We repaired them, but then at the same time you know we're sitting here thinking and even my apprentice. My apprentice was like hey. I haven't seen that compressor run the whole time we're working on this, and i said you know what you're right so, hey kudos on my apprentice, good job bud, um, you know he's noticing things you know and that's what's really important when you get the apprentice to Start noticing things like that, that's so important because he's looking at the big picture, you know he's thinking about the job and he's being observant he's not just zoning in on what he's doing so.

We found that you know. Obviously there was more going on there. So it's so important to keep headphones off your head to pay attention to your surroundings, to listen to the noises and don't just zone out on your repair, because you can miss other things in this situation. The customer would have ended up calling me and i would have ended up or i maybe i probably would have seen it as we started the system up.

To be honest with you, as i was looking at the refrigerant pressures. I'd have been like. Why is the head pressure so high? You know i probably would have seen it, but still you know it's so good to just listen to what you're doing and pay attention to your surroundings. You know i i'm a big advocate for saying: do not wear headphones when you're on the roof or when you're working unless you're using them for earring protect or ear protection.

You know if you're working in a motor room or a big giant equipment, room and there's lots of noises. Of course you want to wear proper ear protection. So that way you don't go deaf in two years. You know, but just on a roof, you know don't wear headphones, don't blast a radio just pay attention to what you're doing you know that way.

You can really focus and find issues like this all right, so we went ahead and repaired. The refrigerant leaks. I notified the customer - i let them know that hey this unit's living on borrowed time. You know, but they're not going to replace the coils right now and in all honesty i don't think i mean we're going to have more leaks in the future, but i think i jumped on top of it and that's important too.

You know when you're getting in there just start thinking about it being like you know, where else is it potentially going to leak in the future? Let's go ahead and solve that now, just sand it up and lay a braise on there. You know it's not that big of a deal just braise up what you can um. I want to kind of address a few things and i want to talk about number one. I know we're gon na get a million comments about that.

That is not my meter. That's my apprentices meter. He likes the uei meter. I personally don't care for that meter, but it's working and it does what it needs to do.

Okay, if it ever became a problem, i'd tell him to get another one, but it's fine. You know. So, let's just address that one, because i know i'm gon na get a million comments about the meter. Um next thing is marking that liquid level on the receiver there's so much importance to that now i know: there's going to be people out there, especially some of the supermarket, guys that are going to say.

There's no need you know, don't do that. You can use uh sporeline's 90-30-1 method. You know all this different stuff and, of course, when we're we're calculating the flooded charge for a system, i'm always going to tell you to lean on the manufacturer lean on spoiling using the 90-30-1 method, but at the same time that won't always work. Okay - and i will say this, i've said it before in videos if i walk up to a system that i know has a leak, but the system is not flashing at the sight glass.

Yet the charge verification used in sporland's 90-30-1 method is not going to help. You in that situation, because, if it's not to the point where it's flashing at the sight glass yet, but you know, there's a leak - you don't know how much refrigerant has left the system. So that's where marking the receiver is really going to benefit you now, of course, in this situation, i encourage everybody to find out the proper flooded charge for your system, either talking to the manufacturer or calculating it using spoilan's 90-30-1 method and then once you've charged the System with the right amount of refrigerant mark the receiver. Okay, so then, from that point forward you don't need to do those calculations.

You can just simply fill it up to your mark. So that's what i did in this situation. The last repair i did on this system, i calculated the flooded charge i reached out to the manufacturer, found how much it needed filled it up and marked the liquid level. So now we don't need to bother ourselves too much with trying to calculate how much refrigerant the system takes.

Okay, that's one thing: the other thing is when we are working on those systems um. You know i talked about the evacuation, pulling the evacuation through my manifold gauge assembly. Of course i always want to encourage people not to do that, but there's certain situations where it's really not practical, to hook up all the big giant fancy stuff on the system. Okay, this was one of those i didn't see the need to do the big evacuation hoses and all that, because it is a pump down system and, like i mentioned in the video, if you keep trying to vacuum down on a pump down system, eventually you're gon Na achieve that vacuum, but you're probably not going to have any refrigerant left in the system, because you will pull the refrigerant out of there.

It will take a long time, but you will okay. The other thing i wanted to address too, because i know i'm going to get comments about it is. I was not brazing with nitrogen. It is very difficult to braze with nitrogen when you have a pumped down system now in a perfect world.

If i installed schrader ports in different places on the system, then yes, i could achieve it, but the way that my system was set up for today. There was no way for me to purge with nitrogen safely and braze. At the same time, it just wasn't going to happen. Okay, because i only had one suction port on the roof, and then you had two super heat ports downstairs at the evaporator and if i would have taken the schraders out of those super heat ports, then i would have been pushing all that um that you know The the gases and the smoke and all that stuff uh through into the the walk-in box, and it would have just been hard to breathe in there and then vice versa.

It would have been difficult to bring a nitrogen tank into the box and push the nitrogen up to the roof. Okay. So it's not always practical that you're gon na get to put your nitrogen rig on there. Of course, i try to do it as much as possible, but sometimes you just got to do what you got to do.

Okay - and this was one of those situations - um not really much too much or not, really too much more. That was special about this job. It was just a standard, refrigeration, job um. You know i had a day planned out for me.

I went to this location. I actually was planning on doing something else. This morning i was scheduled to be at a location at like seven in the morning, but this call came in earlier and i had to change my plans that kind of stuff happens. For me.

We have to prioritize calls, and i always prioritize walk-in coolers walk-in freezers over reaching coolers and air conditioning calls okay. So in this situation i was supposed to be scheduled to work on someone's air conditioner, and then this walking cooler called came in. So i had to cancel the other call jump onto this, and this took me a lot longer than i planned on it. I was there for about five hours in all the repairs and picking up parts and everything that we did um so uh.

You know i mean you just got to deal with that kind of stuff. Sometimes plans, don't always go the way you plan them. You know things have to change. My customers do appreciate the fact that i prioritize my calls so the one that i had to cancel on they understand, because i would do the same thing for them if they had a walking cooler down, and i was work you know supposed to work on someone Else's air conditioner now with that being said, i'm typically not going to stop what i'm doing.

If i was already head first into an air conditioning, call, i'm typically not going to stop what i'm doing unless it was just dire circumstances, i'll go ahead and finish up the call that i'm on and then move on to the walk-in cooler walk-in freezer. You know uh yeah, that's pretty much it guys. I. I hope that you guys get something from these videos.

You know i try to share the little bit of knowledge that i have and i hope that it helps you guys out um. I do appreciate all your feedback and your guys's support. I do have to acknowledge that we have several way too many to mention on the end of this outro notes, right here: uh several patreon supporters and several youtube channel membership supporters, even people that donate via um, uh, paypal and stuff. You guys, thank you, everybody for the support.

I've said this so many times. I appreciate all the support. I'm gon na continue to make these videos whether or not you guys support me via patreon or whatever. Okay, i'm just gon na keep doing it.

It is. It is awesome to get that support at the same time, the easiest way to support this channel. The simplest way is simply just watch the videos from beginning to end without skipping through anything, that's the easiest way, guys um and then, of course, if you want to go above and beyond, like others have, you can certainly donate via patreon or youtube channel memberships or Paypal there's links in the show notes of this video for all those different methods. There's another way a couple other ways you guys can support the channel.

If so interested is, you can go to my website hvacrvideos.com. We have hats and shirts beanies sweatshirts, all that stuff available on there as we're coming into the fall, the beanies they just say hvacr. You know we have a cuffed and a non-cuffed, and i should say this too, with the hats and the beanies. I purposely kept.

You know hvacr videos off of them because i want as as a business owner. I don't really want my employees wearing advertisements for other people right. So i figured the acronym hvacr with my color scheme is enough of an advertisement, but it's also not really recognizable by the general public. You know what i'm saying so you guys can.

I was hoping in the design that people would still be able to wear these hats. You know at their normal workplace. So that's why i went with that kind of a design. Now my t-shirts, of course they say hvacr videos, my sweatshirts, all that stuff they're branded with hvacr videos, but the hats and the beanies just simply went with the simple acronym.

As far as the hats go, forgive the crazy hair going on right here. They're, a black underbill and it's hard to show on camera, but these are see-through: it's not a trucker hat, but it is a flex fit in the back. But it's i can see light through this hat. It's very breathable, and it's purposely meant that way, because they last me a long time and i've been, i loved these hats um.

I i used the hats for a year before i even released them for sale, because i wanted to make sure it was high quality and i was really really um very important to get the black underbill on these hats, because i wear my hat at work and You know you grab your hat, to adjust it or something, and then the underbill turns black, because your fingers are all dark. You know, so i really like the black underbill. So if you guys are interested check out the website, hvacr videos.com at the exact moment, i am out of small medium hats. I only have large extra large, but i did just get confirmation that they're shipping, my new order of small medium hats - i just ordered them, so they should be here in about a week or two.

I will announce it on the channel when that happens: um yeah, that is it um. I i want to ask you guys one favor, okay, really big favor. There is so much craziness going on right now. The world is in utter chaos.

People are just nuts okay. I don't know about you guys, but i drive on the road. Every single day people drive like idiots they're cutting people off nobody uses turn signals anymore. People speed, it's just nuts.

Okay, this world can seriously use some kindness right now, just a simple act of kindness by any one of you guys. You can change things. Okay, you can change someone's day for the better by simply buying them some coffee holding a door open for someone. It doesn't matter if it's a female or a male just be polite.

Hold the door open for someone use common manners, guys it's so simple to change someone's day for the better. Just by doing some simple act of kindness doesn't have to be anything extravagant. We need more kindness in the world, please guys if you can do a favor for me, just just help someone out just be nice to someone. You know give someone some guidance, do something: okay, we need more kindness and i feel like if we, if we all just did something it would make a difference.

Okay be kind to one another. I really appreciate you guys and we will catch you on the next one: okay.