So this is part 3 in my home ac replacement series where I come up with my final blower door number and finalize my load calculation.
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As this video is starting out I Just gotta stop and and give a special thanks to my friends over at the Energy. Conservatory The Energy Conservatory has been very, very awesome. They've been helping me out to understand the building science side of things a little bit more. Understand that I completely have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to building science I Just know that I wanted to change the air conditioner in my house and I said hey, you know what I don't want to just put a like for like system in because I knew that my system was oversized.
Okay, so before we even figured out what I needed in my house, what we started doing was evaluating the envelope the entire house. We're evaluating the air leakage, the infiltration and we're looking at that and we're using that data to help us determine what size system my house needs. Okay, so I made some corrections and you guys will see as we're going through to the air leakage in my house right? made some repairs to some things and then we took that information and we ran all those numbers through a load calculation software and we decided what we're going to go with. So I just want to say thank you again to the Energy Conservatory for all their help and let's get on with the video.
All right. it's time for the final blower door on my house. Got everything taped off, we went around and made a lot of adjustments. ended up putting can light inserts and all the can lights around the house and then using Caulking and uh, caulked around them, then set them up there so they have airtight seals on top of all the can lights.
We have the I think they're tan mat covers for insulation reasons and a little bit of air leakage reasons. So let's see now that I put all these can light covers in how big of a difference it makes. so we're going to go through. We just ran our Baseline test and I need to go ahead and take the Rings off.
We're going to run through the test and we'll see what our final blower door number is, test app on the Uh Tec app basically or the auto test app and it's working through all the process and it's going to tell me when to put the Rings back on. So we're running with an open fan right now and it's saying flows too small. So then we're going to work through all the different steps until we get to the final one and then we'll get our actual blower door number. All right.
Well, it just finished the test. It went through all the different steps and here's what we have to look at. So we have 3.19 air changes per hour at um, 50 Pascals and we have a measured CFM of about 935 cfms of leakage at 50 Pascals. So we increased or decreased our blower door number a massive amount.
I'm pretty sad. I mean I I'm really actually satisfied with that 935 Cfms of leakage. That's awesome. Okay, um I do think that there is going to be a little bit more Improvement Eventually, when I I'm not going to do it right now.
but when I open my attic, seal the top plates once I seal the top plates I think that number is going to come down even more. But what an awesome change from the 2500 plus Cfms of leakage. I think if I remember right or 2300 Cfms of leakage that we started with, that's epic. Like Epic. So now we have our blower door number of 935 and we are going to use that for our load calculation. uh to size my equipment. So here we are I am in the quick model 3D Modeling load calculation software. Okay, I'm looking at a 3D model of my house.
You can see we have all the windows. We have basically everything drawn out. We've taken into account the vaulted ceilings um, coming over so we have vaults all over multiple ceilings. This is my living room area.
This is my master bedroom area right here. Um, we have gone through I measured out the entire house my friend Adam Muffet is actually the one that designed this for me and Drew this out I Just went and basically did a bunch of measurements in my house, figured out what windows I have, what insulation I have in the walls, what insulation I have in the Attic we are a slab on grade Foundation um my existing air handler or furnace I Guess you can say because I am currently running a gas heat system is in an interior utility closet right in here. We are going to keep it in the same utility closet I am not going to move my my new air handler I'm putting in a heat pump system I Am not going to move my new air handler into the attic. We are still going to have the ducks in the Attic because that's the way the house was designed.
as far as the duck design goes. Um, we are going to come up with um round rigid duct coming up and we're going to have a main trunk and then off of that we are going to be doing uh, basic normal flex duct going down to the drops we have designed and when I say we I Really got to give credit to my buddy Adam Okay Adam Muffin, he's the one that really spent the time making sure that everything was set up the way that it should be. We decided if you look up above right here you can see that I am right at about a two ton. As far as cooling and heating were a little bit over on the heating load and we're a little bit just a hair under on the cooling load.
but we decided to or I decided to after thinking about lots of different brands of equipment and doing a bunch of different research. communicating non-communicating what do I want to go with and I decided to go with a high efficiency. the fully communicating uh Carrier Infinity system is what I went through or went with I already have the equipment I have not installed it yet I went with a two ton system. Um, as far as the two ton comes, we are a little bit shy on our heating load.
okay and I could supplement that with resistive heat. Uh, but I decided not to do heat strips on my system I am gonna run it uh again. I'm I'm I think I'm only like a thousand or two thousand BTUs shy of what the actual equipment can do uh, you know on its performance data and we are just a little bit shy at the load conditions and everything. but I'm not concerned about that at all. my design temperature is not a big deal I think I'm going to be just fine. Okay, so I'm getting ready to install the equipment once we get done with that, then of course I'll be having some more videos and I've got some other other footage on this one right here and I do want to explain that that using this software we did take into account the Uh, the blower door number and we took into account also mechanical ventilation. We are bringing in some mechanical ventilation for fresh air into the house. Uh, we got the blower door number down below a thousand.
but we're definitely going to be bringing fresh air into the house too. So I will be. You know, working on that Currently got the duck Blaster out I'm really curious about the air leakage. Please excuse my messy garage here.
but I'm really curious about the air leakage on my exist or my brand new air handler that I'm about to install. Now this is a high-end uh Carrier Infinity air handler that we're about to install at my house. Well that's pretty good numbers. I mean I'd like to see it a little bit lower and it will be lower when I'm done with it.
but at 25 Pascals of pressure, we are at 5.8 Cfm's 5.9 Cfms of leakage and all the leakage. Really? I Can feel it around the you know these connections. These these guys right here. the electrical connections.
You can feel it. Everything has gaskets on it, but right here around the filter door you can feel the air really leaking out. Now this is a smoke puffer, right? And you see how the smoke is lazy and it just sits there right? But when I put it right here, Boom the smoke just blasts away because it's leaking right in this corner. Same thing right over here.
right in this corner. There we go. Leaking right there. It's also leaking around the refrigeration line connections, So it's so important that we have those guys.
those those O-rings I'm feeling leaks around the drain line connections I'm feeling air blowing out at me right now. now. What I'm really curious about is what happens if I remove a screw like let's take a screw out and see how much leakage comes through just a screw hole. So I took one screw out and it went up 0.1 so it's holding steady.
It was at 5.8 5.9 and now it's holding steady at six Cfms of leakage. So let's try something and experiment here. Let's go ahead and hit start. Let's see if we can get this guy up to speed.
So we're pushing for 25 Pascals. Let's see if we can get there with this ring because I just did something. So this is interesting. Okay Cool! So I think this is going to work? Let's give it another couple seconds, let it get up to speed.
I Have it on cruise right now so it's automatically going up to 25 pascals. one more second. All right. 10.8 10.9 Cfms of leakage if you take off the rubber grommet for the liquid line. So you've got five Cfms of leakage just from this grommet alone. One grommet. Okay, so you've got to make sure these things are in there. It's so imperative.
Um, and also, you know you got to make sure you tight air seal as much as possible. Of course you don't want to duck seal the panels on, but you know you want to make sure that you're putting everything in there. you're You're getting all the screws on. You're getting tape all the way behind sealing your stuff because you know five Cfm's a leakage just from one grommet.
That's a significant amount there. Imagine if I took the suction line grommet off. So those are some pretty cool numbers. Pretty interesting.
Uh, how low the air leakage is on this? you would think it would be perfect, but it's not gonna be. So Things that we got to consider: I'm going to turn this guy off because there's needlessly running at a high CFM right now. But things to consider is it's like what happens if you, uh, make your electrical connections and you don't air seal or put some silicone in the end of the conduit. You know that's connected to this because once we pop this electrical connection out and hook up conduit and you know, hook up power to the unit, that's going to be a potential leak.
Point All these places are going to save us energy by sealing all this stuff up. So pretty cool information. We've made a lot of adjustments to the house now. Some of the adjustments that I've made to my house were simple things, like literally retraining myself and my family on how to properly use our house, what doors have to stay shut, right? Some of that stuff seems obvious and I very well could have you know just done a blower door number while closing my garage door.
But I figured you know what? No, let's be honest and let's show people how I truly use my house. and so that's what I did the first blower door number that I got right was uh, 2205 Cfms of leakage okay at Cfm50 and then what I did was that was just my initial test in, but then I started making adjustments right I closed my garage door I taped up a few cosmetic holes that we had in the house that aren't just cosmetic because they actually affect the air leakage. Okay, so once I taped up the holes, closed the garage door I got the blower door number down to 15.49 Okay then what I did was I found that there was a lot of air leakage and you can see all this information in the previous videos. Okay, this is all in the same playlist.
You can go back. This is the third video. you can go back to the first two. but then what I did was I found there was a lot of mechanic or leakage in my mechanical room where my furnace was located because there's fresh air coming into that room right to satisfy and to help the furnace operate properly Right for proper combustion. We needed that fresh air. So when I taped off my mechanical room door I got my blower Nord number down to 1415. Okay, so then I decided to tape off all my registers right and get a roughed duct leakage number and I taped off all the registers and the return and I got the blower door number down to 12 11. Okay, CFM leakage at Cfm50? Then what I did was I put the covers the the rock wool covers over all my can lights once I did that I was actually kind of disappointed with all the work that it took to get those rock wool covers in and how much time it took me.
Um, I also sealed some Outlets too went and sealed some electrical penetrations in some of the outlets I got my blower door number down to 11 30 32. I wasn't quite satisfied and that was the last video you saw me saying okay, that's my final blower door number but I wasn't satisfied with that. So I decided to go the extra mile and uh, took those can light inserts and cocked them into the ceiling and got my blower door number down all the way to 935. So 935 Cfms of leakage at Cfm50.
Okay, that is a significant improvement over the 2202.5 actually I kept. You know what? I realized that in the editing I kept saying 2205 but it was actually 2202.5 but you know that's just my own problems. but still, that is a significant amount of leakage and I still think I'm gonna get that number down even more. Which also helped me to feel more comfortable because in the video I told you guys that we went a little bit aggressive on our sizing with the heating load.
technically I should have. You know if you really really wanted to meet the numbers, I should have either added supplementary heat strip heaters or I should have gone up a size. but if I did that, then I would have been massively oversized on my cooling load too. so we had to kind of find a happy medium.
But the fact that I know that eventually I'm gonna go in and fix the insulation in my attic because we have bats up there or bat insulation. I Should say not bats, but we have bat insulation up there and it's it's not very efficient, you know with the can lights and stuff it's kind of just sitting over the can lights and it's not really sealed. So The plan is eventually to take all the the the insulation bats out and go in there and air seal all the top plates right, the top pieces of wood where the Romex Wire runs down through. there's little holes and different things.
We're going to seal all that and then we're going to go in with probably blown in like cellulose insulation. okay and then blow it all in and get a higher insulation number when we do that I really think that that that you know lack of heating? um delivered capacity by the what is it 2000 BTUs I think I think I was shy I'm not concerned about that. Okay, so we're gonna see a significant Improvement when I do that. but for now, the next video that you should see is basically me doing the install of my equipment and then potentially setting it up, commissioning it and starting it up. I'm hoping that we get this done sooner than later because it's currently May 27th of 2023 and uh, it's kind of cool outside so I'm looking forward to getting this done. um got about another couple days I think I'm hoping about in the next week I should get all my custom-made um uh, Supply diffusers and we're having a lot of stuff ordered and stuff because we were very particular in our sizing and really paying attention to the throw of the diffusers that we were using. and so anyways, but that'll be all in some future footage. but I really appreciate you making it to the end of the video Again, Special thanks to the Energy Conservatory and to True Tech Tools.
Uh, speaking of True Tech Tools. If you're interested in purchasing any tools, I suggest you go to Truetechtools.com find what you like on there. You can find all the products that I was using in these last three videos from The Energy Conservatory The Blower Door, The Duck Blaster The Smoke Puffer The True Flow Grid You can find all of that at Truetechtools.com And if you use my offer code big Picture one word: you can get an eight percent discount on checkout on majority of the items on Truetechtools.com and I get a small commission when you do that. So it's another great way to help support my channel.
You know you're going out to purchase tools. get them from Truetechtools.com Use my offer code I Get a small commission and it's just kind of a win-win for all of us, right? So if you see any of the Cool Tools that I used and you like them, go check it out and again, thank you so very much. If you're interested in supporting the channel and other means, there's links in the show notes of this video for PayPal Patreon YouTube Channel memberships. but I say this all the time.
the easiest way to support this channel is simply watch the videos from beginning to end. That's that's really the easiest way. Okay I really, really appreciate you guys putting up with my nonsense here on YouTube I Don't know why you guys keep watching, but it is what it is. Apparently you guys like the ramblings of my brain, so thank you so very much.
I Really do appreciate you and we will catch you on the next one. Okay.
Hey. im sure you know but ductwork area to the attic is around 40% of house sq ft. and ducts have value of r4-r8. if you blow insulation over ducts and cover ducts with blow in insulation you reduce heat losses significantly
in stead of blown in i would spry foam the top of the drywall in the entire attic and it would seal all the light boxes and plates etc
if the unit was in the attic then yes but since it is in a closet there is no loss just seal the ceiling good were the plenum goes up threw
"Messy garage" thats a very clean garage as far as garages go. Lol
Shit I need help, 600 square foot house with 1.5 ton unit and still hot as hell, won’t get below 78 in the day, walls brick and 2×6 don’t know about insulation, attic has blown in insulation at 20inches, during winter it doesn’t get cold so I don’t it’s a insulation problem,
Two ton I guess you really like your house warm in the summer
This is my first comment but I’ve been watching for sometime now and I’ve just got to say thanks for all the information you give us, sure there’s points where you might ramble but truth be told, you’re one of the most logical YouTubers I watch and love your commentary on most things. Above all else I really appreciate you taking the time to show us these tests you’ve performed and how even just a single gasket can effect the leakage by that much. Thanks again and keep it up, I will probably look back at these videos in the future for whenever I build my dream home
heat strips are called Emergency Heat for a reason. For an emergency.
I did duct seal my unit back in Spain.. the flow improved a lot.. it was installed by the builder without grommets!
You should go for a dual fuel system
Why would you be concerned with a Little bit of Leakage from the unit that is inside the House??
If the room is sealed from the attic space, all that leakage will be inside the House…
Mike M.
That duct work is gonna be fun, how’s the room up in the attic ? Id rather trying adding thermal barriers under the roof instead adding in blown insulation. Once you add that blown insulation in that’s it you’ll never want to go back up there. Are you in Kanata ?
your heating load wont be an issue at all once your top plates are sealed… that will significantly improve your numbers
Please don’t do flex duct
That felt like 2 minute video. I dont know how you do that hah
Thanks for update
You never mentioned sealing the bath & kitchen exhaust fans. For the test.
Good numbers on the air exchange
carrier infinity is very good however be sure to look at the factory solder joints in the outdoor unit I have installed several where they start to leak when we kick it on for the first time. Also personally I would have gone with a 2.5 ton for a worst case scenario day. Remember also that if you get the air handler installed and this winter decide its not making enough heat you can always get a 5kw heat strip and throw in it as well. 5kw generally only needs a double pole 30 amp breaker to power it and based on the system being small you should easily be able to get away with that size. Are you in Barrhaven ?
Actually, I like that you're using a heat pump system for some reason in the United States. There's such a stigma against using them even though I think that's the way of the future. Is heat pumps to replace gas as a heating source.
I bet its exciteing putting in a new system
Aren't you going to need the heat strips while the heat pump is going into defrost? Otherwise it'll be blowing cold air while it's defrosting for a few minutes. It's also nice to have for backup just in case something should fail on the outdoor equipment.
The 2 tons of cooling and heating load that you guys calculated are basically what the house continually either loses or gains based on heat transfer through leakage, insulation, etc.
But, don't you need some excess cooling/heating to rapidly cool or heat the house after you've been away all day at work? Or you happen to like the house/bedrooms to be cool overnight in the winter and then quickly heat in the morning? Question is, how much excess capacity is appropriate for those scenarios?
Why is is such a big issue to go up a size (from 2 to 2.5 ton i assume) if you get a multistage system? Most of the time you will be running on the lower stage except when it's very hot or very cold. When it is, if you're a oversized a bit the system can toggle between full and the lower stage rather than short cycling on and off. I'm very glad I installed a two stage infinity system over 10 years ago. Evaporator leaked aft 9.5 years but the coil was covered under warranty.
That software looks awesome. I'm interested to see how you seal the attic. I've installed a few of these. They are great units. Guess you can get rid of that C clamp holding the filter down 😆.
After all the talk you went for a pretty safe uninspiring option.
Hardly state of the art tbh..
Your house your money i guess
Is the air leakage really that important because it's already inside? Are you in Orleans ?
carrier infinity is a good choice for your area and climate.
i love that you are bringing in fresh air that is so important so you don't end up with a sick house. Service area Ottawa??
Where did you get the die cast crane in the back of you on the book case?
Don’t use flex duct you will see less cfm
Seems like a little nitpicky to me, there are a lot of wasted hours here
I was the guy that mentioned some months ago that you will not be happy with the load calc sizing being installed. I designed and sold around $100M worth of work in several states from Boston to Miami. Good luck with it..
We love work. We can watch it all day. That's why we watch. 😉
Do you really want to have a house this airtight? As a self-proclaimed cat I would have oversized the AC and call it a day.
Just stick a Goodman in there Are you in Ottawa ?
just goes to show, how much good insulation and sealing of gaps pays off in energy management. Service area Barrhaven??
461 Thumbs uP
Are you worried about system going into defrost during heat cycles and not having strip heat to temper air coming back into the house? Are you in Nepean ?
Electric strip heaters you can use them for precise usage calculations. WATTS DON’T LIE.
To see exactly how many watts of power through the winter it takes to heat your home . Measure and record your run times..
And then compare to heat pump . Or gas furnace..
And remove the electric heat strips later . It’s your own house you can afford to do it.. just a little time in extra experimentation.
I that’s what I’m going to do on my house put them in test through one winter catalog take recordings .
And then take them out and compare to the heat pump .
Serious question – why don't you just put the refrigerant lines straight to the rooms? It seems you are massively overcomplicating things using ducting. Can you even control the temperature in individual rooms with that?
There is no air exchange in your project, to get fresh air ?
I’ve worked on plenty of the Infinity systems. Highly recommend the installation of surge protection. The ICM493 is a must for the condenser. Just having the ability to prohibit operation during an over/under power issue will save the inverter board. Other than that , as long as your static is good the units are great. Are you using the VNA8 or 4?
Have an affiliate link I can use to buy blower door? Service area Kanata??
Man i know you did all the fancy stuff but 2tons for that entire house 😮 sounds crazy. Im waiting to see future updates
Oi in Brazil parabéns 💯.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I love watching people get that "where's that damn leak" obsession. Knowledge is addicting.
I was thinking, "BATS IN YOUR ATTIC? YOU SURE THEY ARENT IN THE BELLFRY? START CHARGING RENT!" But now I feel better with the clarification.
Very cool video. I ended up taping up some of my ductwork and air handler.
I’ve an awful feeling that two tons is going to be undersized (heck, I’ve got 3 tons for a similar sized house here in soggy south east England, but we do have humidity, but… still…) that said, I’ll be happy to eat my words when it works just fine even in the heat of a Southern California summer.
Really appreciate the video and all the information. Now, I’m just going to seal off my loft hatch (which until I saw your investigations, I always kind-a thought I should but couldn’t ever be arsed to do it 😊)
how are you adding more cooling to the office ?
Great blower score, personally I stopped at 3.0 ach@50 because local code states I must install Mechanical Ventilation which I didn't want to do.
Heck yeah bud 👍 cheers
Guy I worked with had an energy audit done using the blower door method. Technician forgot to kill power to the furnace, and during the test the gas furnace kicks on. The negative pressure caused the flame to go the wrong way in the furnace, cooking all the wiring in the control section. To resolve the issue a new furnace was installed, billed to the energy audit company. Service area Orleans??
On those Carrier you want to look at the outdoor unit, I've seen a few rubouts of the discharge against the suction accumulator and where the discharge bends down to the bottom right where the puck protects it from rubbing out. The puck eventually vibrates to the side and it rubs against the bottom, I typically put a piece of hole strap screwed to the bottom.