All right. Well, I got the pipe up here. It relatively fits. it's not perfect yet.

This is an interesting predicament, like having to do this and I'm going to be pressing this and I'm thinking that pressing is going to be so much easier than uh, brazing up here because, yeah, too much stuff that can go wrong. Not saying I haven't done it before I have, but rather not have to drag my torches all the way over here. So I'm going to start prepping the pipe, fitting it up, and then uh, we'll get the press tool out. This video is brought to you by Sportland Quality, integrity and tradition.

All right at this point I need to pull new power for my air handler because it's going to be a 208 air handler and we're going to run the power. Um, big enough as if I was to add strip heaters. I'm not gonna add strip heaters, but I'm gonna pull the right size wire in case I add strip heaters later on down the line for me. Uh, I'm gonna drill a hole in the top of the breaker panel right in there and I got one of these right angle drills I'll be able to get up into there Pull It in I Turned off all the power and the power off from the main.

so we've got no power in here. so I'll pull the wires out of the way, drill a hole up three quarter inch hole, and then hopefully fish down from the top. Still got to figure out how to get it into the panel and stuff, but we'll figure all that out once we get the hole drilled all right. I took my hole, got it drilled right in there, going up and then uh now.

I gotta hope that I can feed up I already went up on into the attic and I built. There's actually a a hole already cut in the top so I should be able to feed down into that. but what I'll do is take a fish stick and shoot it up and then I hope that I make it to the top where the rafters are and then be able to feed the conduit down once. I get the conduit down and the wire pulled.

We're actually not hooking up at the moment because I'm not going to add it to this right now because I'm not making it live. so we'll cap it off and then we'll hook it up later. At least that's the plan right now. So this is the top of my rafter plate and I got to go down through that which is a tricky one.

This is more difficult than I thought it was going to be. that's the top of the electrical panel right there. I'm tempted to pull that drywall off. it wouldn't be that hard.

pull the drywall off right there, get to the back of the electrical panel and Patch it later because there's a bunch of Romex drilled through there and I don't want to try to drill through and hit a Romex line and then screw something up. All right. I Decided to make my life a little bit easier. I drilled that hole for nothing.

Um, this has a three quarter inch conduit with just 12 gauge wire around in it right here. so we're gonna use that because I have room. I'm just gonna run uh, another circuit in this conduit I can get it up. it's already drilling through that wood that I'm hitting right there and then I don't have to pull the other side of the breaker panel off or anything like that.

Yeah, I Wanted to run my own home run all the way down here, but without making a giant mess. I'm not gonna be able to do that. So I'm going to go ahead and uh, start working running the conduit over to where the air handler is going. There's a junction box in the Attic right above here that this conduit's going to so I'll grab from that junction box and then we'll feed the wire down through here from up top and I should be able to get I'm only going to pull uh to 8 gauge and then a 10 gauge ground down through it so that should work out fine.

All right. I Got the conduit ran I grabbed that box I turned it over so I can get a three-quarter knockout on it I got my fish tape right here. it's ran all the way over there strapped up. You can't really see it right now, but I have it strapped up.

Much better than this one right here. Someone ran this before I moved here and it's all dangly. Um so I got my wife inside I'm gonna start fishing it in because I want to pull from inside the house to here change of plans. It was a disaster on that Flex because the fish tape was getting stuck on it.

so I made the flex the right length and I actually had to pull it down, feed the wire. Threw it in my driveway now I'm going to put it back up. It's easier to feed it through the attic with the wire in it than to try to push the wire through because it was just going to be way too difficult. And then I got to thinking getting all the wire through because I only had one spool of black.

so I had to find the length of the flex, then cut it. You know what I'm saying so it's just a pain. but anyways, it's better. it's there now, grounds in it.

so now I just need to get it back up into the attic and then pull it down into the panel. I ran into a bunch of problems this is a lot more difficult than I thought and I actually had to have Hvacr wife over here help me out. so I need to get her some service boots and a service shirt because she kicked ass. So she helped me pull the wire through the conduit with the fish tape and then she got over here and she pulled the wire down into the existing conduit while I was up in the attic feeding it down.

It was a little bit of a struggle because there was existing wire in there, but of course I turned everything off for her and stuff. but hell yeah, man, she pulled all that down. Couldn't have done it without her. All right conduits ran on the inside of my main attic and then it's dropping down here.

I'll strap it right here and then it's going to go straight down there. Below that duct is my furnace closet. All right. I Came in here right there I'll clean up drywall mess here because we're going to do some drywall work when we're done with the fan coil and everything.

but I came down Yeah. I have a it's actually a three-phase disconnect, but it's one of those. Euro Styles so it's really nice. Um, went ahead and went with number eight gauge wire just in case we add heat strips to it at some point.

we do not need eight gauge wire right now because without the heat strips, it only calls for a 15 amp circuit. Uh, 208 single phase. But this way we're ready for a heat kit if we ever need to add one. So yeah, everything's here.

I'm not going to put uh, the bottom section on I'm not going to penetrate the bottom of the disconnect yet because I don't know what we're going to do. so I'm just going to go turn power on, make sure that we've got proper power here. I'll put the breaker in the panel and then we'll just leave it not hooked up right here. All right, New Breakers installed.

Now another thing to understand too, people might ask: Am I concerned about overloading my panel? No, because we're going down to a 25 amp. Well, actually this 60 amp breaker is no longer being used. That was for a spa, but they are using it for 120 because there's a sub panel but we do not have that loaded and then this is the condenser for the existing air conditioner. It's going down to a 25 amp.

so we're reducing a lot of stuff so we're dropping this down to a 25 amp. this is no longer being used. We should probably downsize that, but that's a project for another day. and then now we're adding this 15 amp.

So I'm not concerned about overloading anything and this is not going to have a load on it at the moment. So I snapped off the uh, the covers. we're going to get that put on, worry about labeling it later and everything, and then we'll go test power. All right, let's get in here.

This thermostat wire is in my way right now. Um, go across this guy. Here we go, we got 240. so we're good to go.

So like I said, I'm not gonna do anything on the bottom side until we're ready to put the fan coil in, but at least we have the power ready. Trying to do all this because the middle of summer and we still need our air conditioner working until the absolute last minute, so we're almost there. We're still working on running the line set and, uh, finishing up some duct work and some transfer grills and then once we're done with that, we'll do the actual swap over. I'm thinking about taking my existing thermostat because the thermostat wires ran like in a stupid way and I'm thinking about locating it right here, right on the other side.

Then I could come straight through the wall right here into the fan coil. I Think it'll get proper mixing I Think it'll be better than I Mean it'll be right in this area. so it, oh man, you know. I mean ideally it'd probably be better right here, but it's kind of in the way in the hallway.

What do you guys think? First location right here by the front door or in the hallway where we'll probably get better mixing of air because it pulls from the rooms too. All right. Um, we're cutting some strut. The idea is that the strut man I'd really like to push this back into this corner, but the problem is we have a dryer vent right there and I really don't want to have to deal with all the lint.

So the idea is that we're going to use deep Channel strut right here. Uh, and then that'll allow us to still use electrical conduit you know, and go over it and the line set's gonna run up. So I measured and the Deep Channel strut will give us a little bit of an offset on one end and then enough room to put a half inch. EMT conduit.

Uh, I'm gonna put some sort of electrical conduit going up for the thermostat wire. so I'm thinking about using half inch EMD conduit and I'm going back and forth on whether or not I should make this longer though, because basically eight inches is going to put us there I mean it's going to be tight I should probably go to 10 inches. if I cut a 10 inch piece then I know we're going to have enough room. I think I'm going to go to 10 inches easy as butter.

just keep marking them and we'll get my 10 inch pieces All right. Plans change when you get up in the attic and you want to see where you can drill and stuff. So that's the fireplace cavity and originally I wanted to come out the wall that's in there because it was tucked behind a wall. but it's not really going to work.

Um, it's really difficult to get back in because the eve and everything I considered I came up here and I realized that my existing line set is a three-quarter three-eighths and that's what I'm running for my new line set outside. Someone converted it to 7 8 and inside to 7 8 when they uh, upsized it to a four ton. I think because I think originally the system was a three ton. um, judging by the ductwork and stuff.

but what I decided was to drill a hole right there. Okay, now you also see there's a gas line right there that is for the fireplace because we have gas going to the fireplace. but I have enough room to put two stucco holes. That's just a guide spot to let me know where to start drilling.

I can go over a little bit over the other way, but I'm gonna do two stucco holes and then the idea at least right now and it may change later is I'll come in with soft copper. it doesn't have to be soft now. I can do hard drawn but I'll come in 90 it shoot under that right there and then we'll figure out a way to secure it. Then the idea.

As of right now, the running plan is to get it over to this wall and secure it to those two by fours running all the way that way and that'll get us over to the new fan coil. So okay, well we got the holes drilled and I Do have to say now granted I know this is a 1990s late 80s house and previous to that stucco was a lot thicker. but even nowadays in 2023, stucco's even thinner than this. so it's enlightening to see actual stucco.

You know, of course you'd love to see it a little bit thicker, give you a little more insulation really. But got both holes drilled up here and they are in perfect location. I took the uh, they're underneath the eave right in there I took the Unistrut pushed the two cush clamps together and that's perfect. We're gonna do 3 8 on the inside, three quarter suction on the outside.

We're going to start mounting the strut now. ideally I need to get the attic work done first because it's going to be really hot today, but I got to get this line set through the wall so that way I can do the attic work. So really I got to get this done. worst case if it gets too hot.

I'll finish the attic tomorrow. but um, now it's a change of plans because I was originally thinking I was going to mount it on this wall right here down, but it was just too hard to get up there. so put it right there. Gonna have to do some roof work too.

Some of the Eaves are kind of jacked up for some previous water damage, but we've all had it repaired. We just haven't had the eaves all fixed and whatever you want to call those boards all fixed and stuff. so that's something we'll have to do in the future when we get a new roof eventually. But this Project's bankrupted me as it is so kind of get through this AC project before we even consider it a new roof.

Um, so now what we got to do though is this: EMT is in my way So I may have to run a temporary conduit just to get the EMT out of the way so that way we can run the line set um and go from there. Whoever sent me this demolition Screwdriver from East Wing thank you very much again. I mentioned it before but I remember you telling me you liked these and then they just randomly showed up on my P.O box without any notification as to who it was from. so thank you very much.

I'm trying to say a Doyle rules. oh Doyle rules. Yeah. told you I'd win.

that's what I said. Yeah, all right, dust in there. So this is the old disconnect switch. this is gonna go away.

I'm gonna put a junction box and what I'm considering doing. You guys will probably see it in this video I Don't know how I'll edit this, but I'm considering putting the surge protector here because the surge protector can be used as kind of a junction box. So if I put the surge protector here, the breaker controls power to the surge protector. Then coming out of the surge protector goes to my disconnect switch.

That's my temporary. That's my theory of what I might do so we'll have to see. But I'm not doing it right now. Right now, we're just going to hook up power that way my existing system can run.

Okay, so again, this is temporary. It's not going to be ideal. It's not going to look pretty. It's just so my existing system can continue to run.

But the conduit gets out of my way. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to find the size of the conduit first What I want it to be. So I'm going to mock it up and then I'll pull it off and we'll push the wire through it. We're just going to go ahead and push new wire through it because I don't want to have to fight with the Old Wire The Old Wire is all brittle and okay.

so temporarily we'll come up. We'll do something like that. that way, it's completely out of my way. I might still strap it to the wall in some fashion.

Yeah, yeah, we'll do something. We'll just be able to move it. Um, shoot. even if I do, that 'll give me enough room.

That's what we'll do I Like using a band saw for the seal type conduit. It makes it so much easier to cut. Just gotta make sure you have a sharp blade and you don't want the little stragglers coming out. All right.

Got some six gauge wire just ran up to my shop. This will be fine. temporarily. we'll make it long.

I'm just going to use the conduit as our gauge I Always make my wire extra long. same thing when I'm braising and I'm using solder. always use extra solder I don't care I Always make my wire a couple feet long. Okay, just to be safe.

There's nothing worse than finishing and not having enough wire. You know me personally coming from the commercial side. I Really don't care for plastic conduit the PVC style stuff I Know a lot of guys in residential like to use the PVC No judgment, it's just not my favorite. I Prefer the um, the metallic liquid tight conduit.

This is disconnects about to fail. It's a good thing we're changing everything. The lugs when I tighten them in I Could feel that they're like loose where they're being screwed into, but these are cheapy disconnects. Anyways, pull out Style Okay, yeah, I'm pretty sure they got the wrong fuses in here.

Um, max fuse size is 40 amps. They got 30 amps usually I can't see a minimum circuit ampacity. but uh, it's running off of 30 amps. It has been running off 30 amps for a while.

Huh? Interesting. Okay, well let's go turn the power back on just to make sure that we actually have proper power 235. So I did my job right. Go ahead and put this guy on and we now have an operating set up.

I need to clean up my messes and turn on the furnace breaker so the thermostat turns on and then this thing will turn back on, cool down the house, and then shut off while we're working. It's very rare that I need a hammer drill for my little itty bitty drill. this is the drill actually I don't use a drill very often I'm usually using an impact because I know what trigger control is okay, but um, it is kind of nice because I'm going to drill through the stucco because I'm going to mount anchors in the stucco and having the hammer drill function on this little guy and not having to carry the big boy drill up there is kind of nice. So that's the one time where I kind of enjoy having a hammer drill on this thing.

So what we're going to do is I'm going to head up there I'm going to level this guy out once I get it leveled, we'll mount it. We'll drill anchors in the wall and then use washers and then we'll Mount this and then from this point forward we'll measure from the edge of the wall and we'll Mount everyone based off of the measurement of where this one's going to be located. All right. I've got my strut all mounted all the way down when roughly about every 48 inches and then the idea is that will come down.

we'll bring an excess out 45 over. There's no way to get the line set round All right if I measured right I've got a mark right here for a Bend and then we have another mark right here for a Bend we're going to have a one piece line set going up the wall. now. the only thing that kind of stinks is it's only going to stick in the house about that much.

but I think I can work with that I think I can make it work because we are doing press fittings up there so we'll have to put a coupling up there and then we'll do what we have to do. but that'll be fine. We'll make that work totally and then that'll make it. If it all works out like I plan, we'll have almost six feet out here to be able to do what we need to do to bend it and make it look pretty over here.

So what we're going to do is we're just rid of the pipe. So this is hard drawn ACR copper pipe and it's not really bendable so by annealing it, we can make it soft copper essentially. So we're going to anneal it so we're going to heat it, up, then we're going to cool it off, and then we're going to make bends on the hard drawn ACR pipe. The benefit to annealing ACR Pipe is if you want to be like a neat freak and you want things to be really, really straight, you can use hard Drawn ACR You can anneal it, make the bends, but then you're still going to have the rigidity and the rest of the pipe.

So just because I Anneal this section doesn't mean that I can bend everything else. I'll have to anneal each section that I want to bend. so we're running nitrogen on the braised setting through the pipe to prevent the the build up and stuff. So what we're going to do.

Be very careful when you're heating the air concrete. I've learned it the hard way that concrete is under high pressure and it'll pop and you'll get fragments of concrete in your face. Trust me, don't do it. So we're just going to get the pipe nice and hot.

We get a nice big color change on it. Okay, now here's something that I need to do though before I lose my spot is I'm going to mark it right there. That's my Bend don't move the pipe. We're gonna cool it now.

We have the nitrogen flowing through it so the inside of the pipe doesn't get any of the carbon buildup or anything like that. Nice and cool. Be careful with a wet towel. Heat transfers faster through a wet rag than a dry rag so you'll actually burn your hand faster with a wet rag.

Okay, so my mark is right there. that I need to bend pull out the nitrogen now I have ratchet Benders I have all that stuff but if you want Precision I find that using hand Benders is a lot better at getting Precision Bins personal preference. but I have the ratchet the the power Benders and all that stuff. Okay, so on my hand bender, you have a mark for a right-handed Bend and then all that we're going to do is line it up and then super nice.

Clean 90 No Ripples Pipe is shiny clean inside. It doesn't have any of the carbon buildup. We're good to go now. All right.

watch the camera. You can go. You could set it on top of the fence. That's fine.

it's okay if it rests on it. Okay, all right. Okay, here we go. Now we're gonna lift it up and over there you go.

Give me a second cool. Go ahead and slowly start bringing it down. down, Down down down. Okay, here's a problem we just ran into.

We got to go on the other side of the conduit. so go ahead and lift it high. Okay, now what I need you to do is get it down underneath that electrical conduit. Okay, now slowly bend it out.

Yep. Perfect. Sure you don't want to come to work with me going down to the ground. get on the the side of the conduit.

There you go. Keep going, but just let it go. Let It Go Set it on the ground. just like take your hands off of it.

I'll kick it out a little bit. Yeah Pull There you go. Okay, it's getting a little tricky because it needs to go up into here. Okay, we're gonna have to do the same thing with the Uh electrical line because it's going to have to tuck underneath it.

All right. So I'm going to start turning just like. okay. Yeah, well.

go down. tuck it down. Okay. keep pulling.

Okay, you're gonna have to go underneath the other. The system that's working right now. All right. hold on.

just hold it right there for a second to get this in it. Garnet, let me make sure this can go in. Yeah, it goes in just fine. So what not to do you? Just a pipe insulation? Okay, come on all right Gosh, that was ridiculous.

Okay, and then you can just let it sit on the ground for the moment and then I'll straighten it out. I need to do this a little bit in here. What? like on the ground? Yeah, All right. so we got a temporary line set.

I mean not temporary. We've got it ran as much as we can. Now when I put the new condensed unit in, we'll 45 it into it and make it look pretty. but I ran it long That way we have enough room, it's secured all the way up as straight as I can get it, and I have room to run electrical conduit for the thermostat wire next to it all the way down.

So far, so good now. Uh, it's like one o'clock or 12 30 p.m I'm not going to get in the attic to do the rest of the line set today because it's just too hot up there. so I'll probably start cleaning out my messes and then maybe get started on the electrical conduit. and then we'll take the rest of the afternoon off because we're going to a barbecue later.

and then I'll get up super early tomorrow and start doing the attic work for the line set. I Went ahead and drilled one more hole up there for the electrical conduit. So now I'm going to go ahead and run or I have to bend some conduit real quick. we're gonna run half inch EMT down, I'll put a bend on it going into the attic and then in the Attic I'll connect it to flex conduit and run it over to the air handler fan coil unit.

So down here we'll have a splice. at least one, maybe two splices and then we'll have another bend down here. and then we'll transition it to seal tight and then go directly into the unit itself. So this right here: I don't really precise bins I'm going to make because we're going to make Junctions and stuff in the in the wall right there.

so I'm just gonna go and bend this at a 90 degree angle. Foreign I Kind of overextended the bin. It's okay though. I'm not the greatest with electrical conduit but that should work that'll go into the attic and then we'll make a splice point.

so for this I can go ahead and connect it up into here and then I'll make a piece for down on the bottom and then we'll bring it out and then we'll just leave it sticking out on the bottom. For now, when we do the condensing unit, we'll connect the flex to it. Thank you Foreign I did something kind of right I like it I like it a lot. All right.

I know I have problems I've got 10 inch pieces of strut mounted all the way down about every four or five feet somewhere in there trying to stick it to four feet, but some of them I have to go a little bit longer because of the stud, cavities and stuff so we've got one right there and then we skip two bays and then we go to this one and then now I need to skip two bays and then I'm gonna go to that one and that pipe right there is the uh combustion air I'm sorry the Uh flu vent for my existing furnace so we just need to make it right over there. I've got the pipe just kind of running. so the way that I'm doing this is I'm using a level and I'm marking the level spot on this stud because the level's not long enough and then I use that spot that I marked to Mark the next ones. So once I get all these mounted which I'm just about done I can start to preliminarily hang pipe and then I'll have to make transition pieces around like that 45 and stuff.

If any of that makes sense, it'll all come together as I'm doing this. I got the main line set run so that's a 20 foot section and then that's a 20 foot section over there. and then we have essentially a 20-foot section going down and now I got to make transition pieces because there's a connection right there I gotta Bend and then I gotta Bend from over and then basically right here. my fan coil is going to be right down there I gotta Bend and go down.

but we got the main sections ran insulated, nice and good and I know it's Overkill but you know it's just what I wanted to do. Okay, so what we're doing is we're mounting the disconnect box. so I've got to drill a couple holes in the stucco. I've already got four of them drilled for the Uh the phase monitor surge protector thing and then uh I got to do the disconnect switch now.

So I'm going to drill these out being careful because I do have existing refrigeration lines in the wall so I don't want to pierce those as of yet. We got the holes drilled and then now we just need to mount the Box. The box is already leveled so if I just line these holes up, the other one should follow that doesn't look level. No, not level yet foreign.

Okay, so now we are installed. Everything's leveled. Okay, so now we've got the box for the phase monitor installed. I Call it a phase monitor, it's a surge protector but we got the box for the surge protector installed.

We have our disconnect switch right here. I Decided to go ahead and not mount it over here. So I'm going to put an electrical box right here. We're going to come out with EMT I am going to be able to make it behind here, but I'm going to have to use a 90 degree fitting I'm not going to be able to bend it and then we'll come out with seal tight and then go right into the disconnect switch.

All right. So we're still kind of. everything's temporary. I've got the line set ran down the wall.

We still got stuff to do up in the attic right? I Went ahead and cleaned up this electrical. Now we got to paint the wall. Get that figured out. But I Took off that giant old disconnect, put a 4x4 electrical box.

There's a couple splices in there. We still got an air seal around here. We'll deal with all that. We'll caulk it three-quarter EMT Ran over three quarter conduit disconnect switch surge protector surge protector into the unit now.

I Don't have the surge protector activated right now. We'll set it up once we set up the new unit. but yeah, we're just trying to get everything we can done. So that way when the actual switch over happens, it's the least amount of work.

So all right, it is time to connect that coming up my wall, from outside, up to right there. We already ran the pipe so got a tape measure up with me. I'm going to measure this out and we're going to try to make a pre-bent piece that's going to match right up to that. Just rest the tape measure.

This is rough, but we've got. We'll have a little wiggle room here, so just rest the tape measure up there on the three-quarter came down here, lined it up with the pipes right there, and I come up with approximately a 67 inch outside diameter banded piece for the 3, 8, and 65 for the three-quarter So let's go downstairs and pre-bend that. we got to make sure we get enough play. So I need to measure that out to go all the way that way I Want it to be cut long and then we'll bring the two pieces up here and hope that they fit on there.

So for this, I'm going to attempt to use soft copper. so I'm using these lines to roll it as straight as possible out right? So you roll it out of the Roll right I marked it I'm cutting it at 67 inches for the center piece and then we have plenty on the outsides. so I'm going to grab the Benders real quick. We're going to go ahead and bend that and then we'll do the three quarter next.

All right, we're gonna try to roll out this three-quarter keep it as straight as possible following this so it's not absolutely perfect, but it will work and I'll try to straighten it a little bit more because I'm pressing it I Don't want to beat the copper up too much so we want to be careful not to put dents in it and scratches and nicks. We'll be able to polish it, but save ourselves a little bit of work. When you're cutting copper, it's always best to go as slow as possible when you're cutting it because it reduces the amount of pinching that happens and it reduces the Burr that goes on the inside. Best case scenario: score it like that and then if you can, snap it, boom and then you have less of a burr so it didn't cut all the way through.

Okay, that's pretty darn straight for soft copper. Okay now I need to mark my then points. Okay first, Bend is going to be here now. Foreign? All right.

Well, I got the pipe up here. it relatively fits. it's not perfect yet. This is an interesting predicament like having to do this.

and I'm going to be pressing this and I'm thinking that pressing is going to be so much easier than uh, braising up here because yeah, too much stuff that can go wrong. Not saying I haven't done it before I have, but rather not have to drag my torches all the way over here. So I'm going to start prepping the pipe, fitting it up, and then, uh, we'll get the press tool out. All right.

let's do this. Pushed all the way in. Foreign. just died I feel like my battery just died so that's pressed All right.

Easy as that now. I Gotta Slide the insulation up to here and then press the other side. Two three. There we go now.

I need to do the 3 8. one two. We are good for a dum dum like me. I Think that turned out pretty nice I angled that strut.

It's not perfectly straight, but it's secured I Got to do some electrical conduit right here for the thermostat wire. We'll run that on top and then I got to go make my final connections over there for the refrigeration lines now. So we just got these two done right here. Now we got to slide the insulation on, then we'll crimp the other two All right.

Last fittings, foreign. We got it all crimped all the way back over there all the way right here, insulated all the way over there. So now we got to do electrical insulation. that kind of stuff.

but that was awesome. I'm super glad we got that part done all right. I Got up here. we got the thermostat wire ran in the flex conduit.

Still got a couple things I need to strap it to right there, but it's run over, stretch tight, run all the way over all the way to the end and it's bundled up right there. I Went ahead and ran two shielded thermostat wires, so that way we have a redundant one in case there's ever a failure. and then when it's time, the air handler will be right down below that existing flue pipe. So I'll be able to connect it to wherever I need to.

I am so close to being done with this. Ready for the install man! I'm almost there. So we got the line set ran as far as we could for the most part, right? We still have to drop down to the air handler, but I really don't want to do that until we actually get it set. We've got the electrical ran from the breaker to the condensing unit and then from the breaker to the new fan coil.

Went ahead and went redundant and added extra thermostat wire into the conduit. Ran all the thermostat wire in conduit. Everything's protected. Um Line set thermostat wire, electrical conduit new Breakers installed My gosh we are getting so so close.

Surge Protector Voltage monitor installed. It's not set up but it's there. it's ready. Disconnect Switch: I'm actually using the disconnect switch right now for the new one I mean for the old unit? um another thing I Don't know if I mentioned it in the video, but I installed a 30 amp disconnect at the new fan coil.

Okay, um, that 30 amp disconnect will have to be upgraded to a 60 amp disconnect switch if I end up installing heat strips. but I ran the wire for the heat strips. but we're not installing them because I'm going to try to run this without any heat strips. We're just going to try to see if we can make it work.

Last case, I'll install heat strips. It's not a big deal because I've already ran the wire for it. We would just upgrade the disconnect switch to a 60 amp disconnect switch and then we would be. you know, good to go on that.

So um, just about there. So really what I have left is to uh, redo the Um furnace closet where I have right now I gotta redo it I gotta redo the deck in that fix some rotted wood because we've had water leaks from the existing evaporator coil I don't think it's quite leveled out right? so I got to look into that I've got to finish up some duct work in the attic and then we're ready to place the new unit. So right there I'm just basically working. uh, you know, on my on call schedule and my super busy work schedule, it's just been hard to get this done so.

but I've been taking my time and then we'll get into the commissioning, the final testing. We still got a lot more work to do, but I want to get this thing running? It would be nice right? I want to get the old system out of there, the new system in, and hopefully be done with it. So let me know what you guys think. I know I'm probably a nut in the way that I'm running everything and stuff, but you know it's just it's my own house I've got my own time, but I will say that um I've got a stupid amount of money invested in this, especially if you start factoring in labor hours like my labor hours are insane because I've been like slowly taking my time doing everything the way that I want it.

um I I'm not joking with you I bet you anything like if if I was to sell this system that I'm installing in my own home to a customer and Bill them for all the time and all the craziness, that I bet you, this would easily be a fifty to sixty thousand dollar system. If I was to build this out like selling it for my company, it's definitely not costing me that much money, right? Um, realistically I think costs incurred like not including my labor I'm probably I don't know I don't know what I am I'll have to tally that one up. Yeah, I'd have to sit down and tally that one up. but I bet you anything.

if I was to sell this to a customer, this would be a fifty to sixty thousand dollar job. Probably more than that, but realistically, nobody's ever gonna pay that and you know that's something that I'm coming to terms with as I'm doing this, you know? I'm trying my best to do things right, you know? and I'm trying my best to follow installation practices, best practices, manufacturers requirements, all that stuff. And it's like when you really start thinking about it nobody, nobody is billing enough and charging enough to be able to do these things a hundred percent right. It's not practical, it just isn't practical.

And that's that's an interesting thing. That's a very interesting thing. So anyways, I really do appreciate you making it to the end of the video. If you haven't already, please check out my website: Hvacrvideos.com Okay, uh, we have merchandise available on the website.

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