Ah, it's time to chill out and get ready for a mediocre Q a live stream. If you're old enough, grab yourself your favorite adult beverage and if you're not, stick with apple juice. put your feet up and relax. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the chat.

and now let's cue up the intro music. All right. Foreign. Foreign.

Thank you thank you Foreign. What is up everybody? Hopefully you guys are doing well. Hopefully everybody can hear me. Okay, um, made a few changes.

So of course in my true fashion I always make changes last minute right before the show I added another monitor to my setup which I didn't buy another monitor I've had another monitor forever and I finally got a new stand for it so added that and then all of a sudden nothing was working right? So true, typical fashion of me, you know, jumping into things right before the stream and then things not working right? So, but hello to everybody? Uh, someone was asking uh Jor Marr was asking what my True Tech tools discount code is and John Harrell answered it. It is Big picture, so if you go to Truetechtools.com and you use my offer code big Picture, you'll get an eight percent discount on majority of the items on their website. And when you do that, I get a small commission. it's an affiliate link essentially.

so I get a small commission whenever you use my offer code, so it's a great way to help support the channel. Uh, let's see what else we got going on here. Hello to everybody. Right on man.

Um, reading through here Now let's see. Someone said Aussie Watcher Huge thanks to Aussie Watcher I'm curious what that is Huge thanks Josh W says Aussie Watchers that someone in the chat I'm just curious because we have an Australian Shepherd so I didn't know what it meant by uh Aussie Watcher Oh interesting. So um yeah, if you guys have questions or things that you guys want me to cover, feel free to throw them in the chat. Whatever social media platform you're watching this on uh, streaming on a couple different Facebook places and then also on LinkedIn Um, so just throw them in caps lock.

it tries. It helps me to recognize the questions from just the chat in general because on YouTube and you see it on your social media platforms too, There's a whole chat going on and oftentimes the people in the chat are answering each other's questions. That's the cool thing about these live streams is it's a whole community so it's really neat. Um John Harrell's saying he is from Australia Oh okay I got you.

Oh, you said Aussie Watcher Okay I Get it Bud I Get it. I'm sorry yeah I totally get it I Whenever I hear Aussie always think of my dog because I have an Australian shepherd and we call her an Aussie So um, but anyways, whole. Another tangent: I'm going off on as usual so thank you for watching from Australia that's really cool. um all right.

uh oh, right on. yeah thank you Josh that's really cool man. it's really awesome and kind of humbling to know that people are watching this from other continents. Uh, pretty neat.

you know from the the emails and different things I get from all around the world. So thank you to all of you guys that are watching this content and uh, it's It's kind of crazy that you actually enjoy it because it's just the ramblings of my brain. It's kind of hard for me to grasp that concept, but obviously I do these streams and I make these videos. so I know that people get something from it, but it's just kind of.

It's hard to explain, but it's it's kind of surreal and it's very I don't know it's weird, but anyways I am very appreciative of all the support. Okay so again, throw questions in caps lock. I Got a couple things I Want to get to here real quick? Oh and uh, hold on just a second, Let me fix something right now. Um let's see if I can there There you go Cool! I You know you're always asking me so you can post links in the chat now because I may you just a moderator? Ike So you can post links to the Discord server if people do ask.

Just don't blow it up too much. So all right, um, let's see what else we got going on in here. All right. Um, well as usual got a couple videos I want to talk about and then some questions.

So uh, popular video that I had last week was when I released one on an exhaust fan where we had an electrical disconnect that had gotten wet. It shorted out and I get it. There was a bunch of feedback and I'm going to address the comments on that one. Okay, so I went back in and I changed the disconnect switch.

Okay, I went ahead and used one of the European style disconnect switches. It was the plastic safety switch on off, left and right with the dial knob on it. Why in the heck did I go back with that? Well, I couldn't find the switch that I wanted I wanted to buy a three-phase switch just a standard on off toggle switch or light switch kind of style. but I couldn't find it in the time frame that I had and that's what I could find was that European style disconnect I do like it.

It's kind of cool. It is kind of a bummer that it's a PVC disconnect because yes, I do realize that over time the sun's going to degrade that. but I'm kind of testing the waters here because they're starting to make more and more of those PVC or plastic enclosures that are a little more resistant to the Sun and the existing one that was there before was a PVC one two and it had been there since 2003 or 2004 so they got a pretty good run out of it. So um, I think it'll pretty much Outlast the rest of this life of this fan.

Now One of the more common questions and comments that I got was why in the heck did I not switch the wiring to go into the bottom of that switch? Honestly I didn't switch the wiring just because I didn't think about it. Okay, uh, I was probably being lazy. Uh, now that I look back on it I mean I don't remember like even thinking about the fact of switching the orientation of the wiring. Okay, and I know that some people were kind of confused because the wire going the bottom of the disconnect switch was coming around and going to the top.

That's I'm not worried about that, the wires were long enough for that. but why in the heck didn't I grab the wiring from the motor, extend the conduit and run it to the bottom? That would have surely been a good idea I just didn't even think about it in the moment. so it is what it is. But one thing I will say is there was a lot of comments about how I should have drilled into the side of the box or gone in the bottom Drilling in the side of the box would not have been a good idea because I probably would have violated its UL listings.

There was another question in the comments on that video where people were asking me how come I had to drill the box out Well, there was actually tabs. If you go and watch the video you'll see there was like a little dimple on where you were supposed to drill The Knockouts out. So instead of having the totally pre-formed Knockouts they just had a dimple saying this is where you drill So Drilling in the I probably would have violated the UL listing. So I try to stay within what the box was designed for.

The next thing is that, um, the previous electrical box had failed because it had a three-quarter inch knockout and someone put a half inch seal type connector in it instead of using a bushing or something like that. As time went on on the old one, there was a pre-formed knockout that if you would have just hit it with a screwdriver, it would have knocked out the three-quarter inch hole well over time. That plastic was really thin in The pre-form Knockout and they just used a half inch connector on it. So actually what happened on the old box was it.

The knockout came out and made it a three-quarter inch hole basically. so the conduit just fell down into it and it just filled up with rain. So I know there's a bunch of questions and I'm not perfect. I'm not always going to get it right so let's see what else we got going on in the chat.

Hello to everybody! I See all the great awesome people in here? Lots of great regulars. Uh Aiden is saying any advice for a trained smart Communicating units? Just finished an install today and couldn't get the air handler to run Aiden I've never really worked on anything train uh is as far as the communicating units. so I don't really have much advice to you. A couple things that I will say: when you're doing any kind of communicating equipment: you definitely want to follow manufacturers installation instructions to a T.

Okay Depending on the manufacturer when it comes to communicating equipment, they may tell you to use a certain type of conductor for the communication. It may need to be solid connector. Maybe it needs to be stranded I don't know, You want to follow what the manufacturer says and also make sure that when you're doing communicating stuff, make sure that you pay attention to if they tell you to use shielding wire or non-shielded wire. Also understanding how shielded wire works, you know on the shielded thermostat wire.

and I'm not saying that the communicating needs it. I'm just saying in general, if people tell you to use shielded wire, you need to know that you only Bond one end of the shielded ground wire. Basically, you only Bond one end of that. When you have shielded wire, you don't want to bond both ends because it just basically just makes the situation worse if you Bond both ends.

So but again, I don't work on train communicating stuff so I can't really comment too much on that. Okay bud, All right, let's see what else we got going on in here. Um, yeah, putting questions in caps lock definitely makes it easier. Okay, let's see what else.

Um I already answered that one. Um, reading through the chat. Um, all right and going through here. Okay, um, let's see.

Uh Jason Johnson says that you do not want to splice calm wires. That is a very important things. Okay, that is very, very important. and I Uh, when you posted that Discord link, it also reminded me that you've been a supporter for 32 months, so thank you very much for that.

Ike It's really awesome. So Ike is a YouTube channel supporter so it's just basically he chose to donate to the channel on a monthly level and uh, you guys don't have to do that. But if you definitely I mean if you want to, there's links in the show, notes of the videos on how to do it all. So um, it's already answered that question.

Um, and I already answered that one I would see oftentimes I put questions I have a list of paper or a list right here in front of me and then I always. uh, just kind of go through it and not or you know what? I mean highlight the questions, tell myself that I covered them. Okay, so um in that video too the recent video that I had where the exhaust fan wasn't working I mentioned in the video that as I was going out to the service call that I asked the restaurant to stop cooking okay and I think uh, some people got the wrong idea as to why I commented on that. Okay, now when I talk about a customer yeah, I was probably a little harsh when I maybe said you can't fix stupid or something like that.

but I mean if I give a customer some Sound Advice it usually means something and I have a relationship with my customers that maybe the viewers typically don't understand. Okay, so I was a little frustrated and but it is what it is. You know they didn't turn off the exhaust fans, they didn't I'm sorry they didn't stop cooking like I told them to I was just blown away that they were just cooking away in that kitchen. If you guys haven't watched the video, you definitely want to go watch it.

It's my most recent exhaust fan video. It'll make a lot more sense, but in a nutshell: I called the customer on the way there because they said the whole kitchen was Smoky and I told them to stop cooking. but when I got there two hours later, they were still cooking away with no exhaust fans. Uh, that is probably violating all kinds of laws, all kinds of safety codes and different things like that people could have gotten hurt, smoke, inhalation, all that different stuff and then on top of that, there's a very, very high probability and they're very lucky that it didn't happen.

that they could have set off their fire suppression system because they have an automatic fire suppression system and that particular restaurant has low profile hoods. Now, some people didn't understand what I mean by low profile hoods, so uh, you, you may see it like in a McDonald's or something like that. They'll oftentimes have low profile hoods and what I mean by that is that there's not a big distance between the cooking appliance and the filters for the hood system. Okay, so if it's a high temperature cooking appliance, in this particular customer situation, they have Friars under the low profile Hood right? Deep Fat Fryers, right? So those are pretty high heat and if they get hot enough, they can melt the linkage for the fire suppression system and cause an automatic, um, disbursement basically and then just destroy their kitchen with a fire suppressant.

It would have been a nightmare, but they didn't listen to me, but they were lucky it didn't happen. So it is what it is, right? All right? I Can't really, you know I mean I Try. try my best to to give them advice and if they don't listen, they don't listen. So um, let me see what else we got going on in here.

Walk indoor? Yes. I'm definitely going to talk about the walk-in door here in just a few minutes. I got it on my list. Um, let me see.

uh. reading through the chat. Just bought a hat. What's the ETA you're in? South Dakota Uh, David More than likely if you just bought a hat.

My wife just processed the only two orders that were in the system today. Uh, usually it's three to four days, sometimes sooner depending on you know the situation and the weather and stuff. But if, uh, if you ordered the Hat you should have gotten an email confirmation with shipping tracking number to where you can actually track it and it'll tell you what the ETA is once it gets dropped off at the post office. but my wife has all the orders already at the post office and they are in transit.

We use U.S postal for our shipping Courier so they usually do a pretty good job if you guys are interested. Uh, we have hats available on my website and some other merchandise. Hvacrvideos.com Now Spoiler Alert or secret News Whatever you want to say I'm looking into I Just ordered some samples of some new hats. Um, a lot of people have been asking so we'll see.

I I you guys would be blown away if you knew how much samples cost. It's insane I order from like a legit company and they have designers and everything and with all the fees and everything to make a new design and to make the the screens or whatever those are for t-shirts but you get the idea the whole design of the hat like there's a whole process involved and it's insane how much they cost. but I ordered some samples and once I get them if they look good then I'll uh put them into production and make a full order. So right now we got a lot of people that had been asking me for a while about a flat bill hat.

so I'm currently getting a sample for a flat bill which I don't personally wear flat bills I like just the standard curved build but I know there's been so many people asking that I did that and then I've also got some samples coming for Dad hats which are the like sloppy relaxed fit ones with like a fabric strap in the back so we'll see my buddy Bill Bill Russell was the one asking for the the dad hats. so once I uh kind of have a look at what the samples look like then we'll decide if we're going to go further with them and then maybe I'll put some polls out and asking people like what kind of design you know, what kind of style they like and who knows, but we'll see, but stay tuned. Okay, but if you're interested in purchasing these normal hats right now, Hvacrvideos.com Oh, and that's the other thing too. So if I do go with a new style a hat of course I would still sell these ones, but they're still going to have the things that I want.

So um, the hat that I sell right now is a very breathable material. It is a flex fit style hat you cannot see, but this is actually see-through It's kind of hard, but I can see light right through the hat and the black underbill is a really big thing. so that was really important was the black underbill and even the new ones that I'm getting samples on. They still have black underbills, so I think that's really important for guys.

They're going to wear hats at work so um, let me see. I don't have anything yet once I have them. I'll definitely show you guys in the live stream or something like that. So uh, Jose Flores says he's new to the trade and does anyone know of free training certs? Beyond Tech school? Well, it really depends on where you're at.

Jose Um, there's all kinds of training resources. There are several different YouTube channels that'll blow your mind. You definitely want to check out Hvacrschool.com that's my buddy Brian Orr's website. He's got all kinds of training materials on there.

Um, you definitely want to look up Ty Branaman on YouTube Ty is a great, great educator and he does a great job. Uh Craig Migueliaccio over at Ac Service Tech is another great educator and I'm sure there's more that I'm not thinking of, but those are the the main educational channels that you will find. Within the Hvacr space is Hvacr School Ty Branneman and Ac Service Tech. Those are the three main ones.

and again I know there's more, but those are the ones off top my head right now so let's see what else we got going on in here. Um, reading through the chat. Uh, going through your see you later Jason But see you later, Bud. All right? Um, okay.

cool. Uh, let's see chance of saying Sefesa isn't free, but it's good for food service certifications. So Safesta is a training organization. um I will say that Sefesa is rather expensive if you're buying the training by yourself.

It's mainly tailored towards companies paying for the training because if you are a Sufessa member um, as a company, then your employees get discounts when they're ordering the training and stuff and they are really, really big on Hot Side equipment. Now they do have cold side Refrigeration training too, but their bread and butter is the hot side training so you definitely want to look into that if you're interested. Um, and it's Safesta, so it's kind of interesting the the way that the name is pronounced. um.

someone had asked me a question about Captive Air Equipment Captive Air is a fan manufacturer. The traditionally they've made exhaust fans for many, many years. They make pretty good exhaust fans and they also got into the makeup. Air Market And they are now making Doas units dedicated outside air systems.

So that's 100 outside air units that are highly over complicated, but they they serve a purpose. Okay, there's several manufacturers that make Doas units and they have all kinds of Uh controls and safeties and different things. I Personally don't have any experience with any Doas units, so I can't comment on that, but the person was asking me what my opinions are on Captiveaire. Um I Think Captive Air makes a great product.

They have a really cool website. It's really easy to find their parts on their website, so good on them for that. Uh, reading through here right now. um and I appreciate you becoming a member there glitter fart.

That's an interesting username but hey what a name? Go let's go for it. All right? Thank you very much for becoming a Channel supporter. Okay, um let's see Otis says he's trying to get into management. What online courses can I recommend? If you're going to be getting into management then you definitely! Um I Don't know of any online courses that I'm gonna say are going to be the bees knees when it comes to becoming a manager.

But I'm gonna say that if you're going to be in management, you need to have a solid, sound understanding of the Hvacr trade. Okay, there's no sense in you becoming a manager if you don't know anything about it. Okay, so make sure you understand Hvacr. Next thing is start taking some business classes, understanding the business.

Even if you're not a business owner, you need to take some business classes, understanding the financials and understanding how to manage people. Okay, just because you're a good service technician doesn't mean you're going to be a good manager. I certainly am not a good manager. I I Excel better at being a technician.

in my people skills. Dealing with employees and not venting my true opinions of things are pretty rough. Okay, so I definitely could use some some work in the management side of things too. So all right, let's see what else.

Um, Will Speed says that he likes the Captiveaire Doas units. Great tech support from the factory. That's something that I will say about Captive Era again. I Haven't worked on the Doe as units, but their tech support in general has always been Stellar They've always done a great job.

Um, and then what? I can say too. And I'm not going to give any names, but if you happen to know any technicians that work for Captive Air, hit them up and ask them for their number. They can usually get you some great information too. So I have a few texts that I know of that work for Captive Air and if I ever can't get a hold of tech support which is very rare I can always call on those guys.

So there's several captive air techs and all the social media groups and different things on Facebook too. so it's a great place to look in. The great resource is aluminum to Copper Brazing Soldering A common thing that we see is aluminum to Copper Brazing. Yeah, it's becoming more and more common for the longest time.

Manufacturers were trying to come up with different ways to bond the aluminum to the copper and they were making these weird fittings. They they tried mechanical fittings and now with the the ease of use and the availability of different brazing rods, it becomes very, very easy to bond copper to aluminum. Several manufacturers make different ones. All the major brazing rod manufacturers make something you're going to need.

Some sort of a flux you're going to need to clean it and you're going to need low temperature heat is what you're going to need so. but yeah, it's becoming more and more common for sure. CM Thank you very much for that. Super Chat That was very, very awesome I do appreciate it and uh, super rural Tech 95 residential commercial HVAC But being the only company, you're stuck working on everything about one.

Refrigeration Call a month? Not enough to get good at it. Best resources, especially for True regions. What you want to do is actually reach out to True Manufacturing so hold on just a sec see if I got it back here. Foreign True Manufacturing Actually has some really really good resources.

So um, you can download all this stuff off their website. but they have a sequence of operation manual this right here. If you can get your hands on this manual, it breaks down all the temperature controllers, how to set them, the Lae controls, it breaks down the sensors, the wiring, and it even goes into mechanical controls. Great great resource So just go to True Manufacturer True T-r-u-e-mfg.com and you can probably download all these manuals and then they also have their hydrocarbon service manuals.

True has always done a good job of breaking everything down and showing you how to repair their equipment. As far as working on the true regions, um, you know who does a good job and shows quite a bit of true reach and work is my buddy Rick over at Hvacr Survival. He does some Supermarket stuff too, but he has quite a few True Manufacturing Uh, videos working on their equipment I have a few too. but I think Rick has a few more than me.

So definitely go check out Hvacr Survival I Don't know if any of the moderators in the chat can post Rick's link. that'd be great. Um, let Me. see what else we got going on in here.

Uh, have I done any Rita courses Scott Savage is asking? Um, no I have not done any Rita courses That's going to be for ammonia industrial type work. No I don't do any Rita work. So um, let's see what else we got going on in the chat. When to use an oil trap on a compressor? Okay, oil traps typically would go on the evaporator coil.

Okay, anytime that the condensing unit or compressor itself is above the evaporator, it's a good idea to make sure that your piping is correct. Very important thing to understand is that just because you buy a condensing unit, let's just let's just say a residential air conditioner. Okay, you go buy a residential air conditioner and there's a stub out on it of three quarter inch and 3 8 of an inch. Okay for liquid line three quarter four, suction for whatever brand.

Okay, just because that stub out is three-quarter and the liquid lines three-eighths does not mean that that's the right line size for the entire system. Okay, so an oil trap is or a P-trap is something that we put on the refrigeration system to help ensure that we have proper oil return going back to the compressor. So anytime that the compressor is above the evaporator, that's when you really want to start thinking about an oil trap. Okay, also though, in general, it's a good idea depending on if you have long line set runs and different stuff like that.

So the idea is that as a refrigerant flows through the system, there's going to be vaporized oil inside the refrigerant traveling with it and eventually it can accumulate and it can get stuck in the evaporator coil. especially if the compressor is above the evaporative coil. So having an oil trap or a suction line P-trap to help speed up the velocity of the refrigerant. And I think it even does like a little Venturi effect kind of stirs up the refrigerant and it grabs the oil and helps it to go with it.

But not just an oil trap, you got to make sure that your lines are sized appropriately for proper oil return. So again, back to the point that I made in the very beginning. Just because the line set stub outs on the condensing unit whatever it may be are one size doesn't necessarily mean that's going to be the size. Okay, so again, I'm going to ask the chat right now.

If you have an evaporator, let's just say you have a walk-in freezer evaporator and the line size coming out of the evaporator is 7, 8, and 3 8. But at the condensing unit, the line size is inch and an eighth and half inch. What's the right line size that we use? Which one do we use the condensing unit? Do we use the evaporator line sizes? or do we use something else? I'm asking the chat right now. You guys answer In the chat, there's no wrong answers.

Okay, so let's let's let's see what everybody has to say about say about this. Um, all right, reading through the chat right now. Is there any new refrigerants coming to residential? Yeah. Every single day.

Any refrigerant that you're using right now. Within five to ten years, we will no longer be using it so they'll find another flavor. So stop getting used to pressures and start paying attention to temperatures for sure. So okay, so um, Cyborg Sheep says neither and um, let's see what else.

Pablo says condenser line Umar says condenser uh Chris Young says what's a manufacturer Cyborg Sheikh says need to calculate Mario Perez says BTUs Okay, lots of great answers there. Okay, and the answer is it depends on the situation, the Btu capacity, the line set length. So you got to look into the variables. Okay, so just because the condensing unit's one size and the evaporators one size doesn't mean that necessarily either one of those is going to be a continuous line set link or line set size the whole way through.

And it's not uncommon on long runs and very high runs. right to have different line set sizes as the pipe goes vertical and then maybe as it goes horizontal, it might get bigger horizontal and get smaller on the vertical Different things. so there's a lot more to this industry than most people think. Okay, and it's not just, uh, slam it in and call it a day.

There's a lot going on. So the line set size is dependent on the variables in which the situation. Uh, you know which the equipment's installed in. So the Btu capacity, the equipment, the line set length, and um, even the refrigerant side refrigerant type.

There's going to be different variables so you want to reach out to the manufacturer and find out what they recommend for sure. Okay, all right. Uh, let's see what else. Um, reading through the chat right now: manufacture specs on line set length and dimensions.

Hundred percent Okay, so right. Yeah, lots of great answers in there guys. And just because people answered evaporator and condenser, it doesn't mean you're wrong. Okay, you know, I shouldn't say you don't feel bad.

Okay, you may not be the incorrect answer because you might get lucky by choosing the evaporator line size, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the right size. Okay, so um, you know something that I do in my videos quite often is I learn from people in the comments: I'm very open to feedback. If you guys have ideas and feedback that you want to give me, please please please let me know. Um wow thank you very much you you you gifted memberships there.

Uh glitter fart? Thank you Bud. That's really awesome Bud, That was really cool All right. Um, so uh, you know I'm not perfect I make mistakes all the time and I learn from everybody And that's the cool thing about content is if you're okay with it, it's an opportunity to learn. so you know.

I've been learning from people and people have been giving me great feedback in my comments and a comment that I get quite a bit from everybody that is not within the United States Okay is why in the heck do I put bare wires in uh, disconnects in in different connectors, right? Why in the heck do I not use ferals? And you know that's just not something that we do very often here. It does happen occasionally, but it's just not a standard that we use. and I do understand why. it's a good idea to use ferals because you're not tightening down on a wire, you, you know? So it's it's a good idea and it's something that I would consider doing, but it would be a matter of getting the right ferals, getting the right crimpers, and making sure that I have all the supplies now in my normal supply houses.

You know they typically don't have feral, so um, it's It's something that we can definitely improve upon and it's something that I would consider starting to test out. If I can find a good source for them, then I would start using them instead of shoving bare wires into disconnect lugs and different things like that. So um, do I have any info on training for Emerson E2 or E3 controls Ernesto Lopez Asked that question? No, I do not have any info for that, but I would highly advise you to go check out my buddies Brett and Kevin over at the Advanced Refrigeration podcast and they're going to have all sorts of resources for E2 and E3 controls when it comes to that stuff. Okay, so definitely go check out the Advanced Refrigeration podcast and tell them that I sent you.

Okay, um, let me see what else. Reading through the chat. what happens when a three-phase fan motor single phases and how long before it damages the motor? John Deere fan. It just depends on the age of the motor and whether or not it has safety controls built into it.

A good majority of the motors out there will have some sort of safety controls, and or they will. They're they're They're made in a way that they can handle a single phase incident as long as it doesn't melt the wires and burn things up, but inevitably, over time if you single phase a motor long enough. yeah, it can definitely damage it. So I don't have an exact time.

It really depends on the the quality of the motor, so let's see what else we got going on here. Um, off topic question: what watch am I wearing in my videos? jmf Productions So I use a Samsung uh watch. So the one that you guys see in my videos is a Galaxy watch 4 with a protective case on it made by Supcase. so it's just the Galaxy watch 4 actually classic and it has the protective case now.

I Also have a newer watch but I don't wear that at work I wear that in personal time. So but yeah, the Galaxy watch 4 works great. It syncs with my phone. I Really do like having a smart watch because I get notifications all day long on my phone.

as I'm working, my phone is just blowing up. it's going crazy. No I mean right now I have notifications I have a bunch so let's see. do I have any service calls? No no service calls, just random junk mail.

But I get notifications all the time or sometimes my phone will ring and it's spam. and when you have a smart watch, it's really cool because you can look down and you can see the number who's calling you and then I know I'm not even going to worry about it I'll just send it to voicemail or something like that. So and then also when you get emails and notifications, it's really nice to be able to look at your watch and be like oh, it's not an important email I don't need to pull my phone out for that because it's a process to pull my phone out of my pocket and I keep it in a velcro pocket on the side. So all right, let's see what else we got going on here.

Uh, 448 is already a thing here. Uh, 448. Okay, so his Yeah, but let's let's be fair and might be as correct. 448a is already a thing, but Jose is asking is it coming out soon? So 448 A is a refrigerant that we use uh, on the medium and low temperature Refrigeration side.

Okay, 448a in California 448a has been very, very popular and common. 448a and 449a are almost identical refrigerants from different manufacturers. You know, you definitely don't want to mix them, but they're almost identical when you look at the similarities. There's a few things when you get into the low temp that maybe one might be better than the other um, but pretty much the same.

But yeah, we already have been using them here in California for a very long time, but they are definitely rolling out across the United States as they're starting to phase out. Our 404a R404a is one of those ones on The Chopping Block supposed to be gone? It's in, you know, already started in phase out right now, and 448a is the pretty common one that we're using to replace it. But one of the downsides to 448a, it's it's very similar in characteristics to what R22 used to be in the refrigeration side, so it tends to run higher than normal discharge temperatures, which can lead to issues. uh, as far as overheat goes.

So when you get into the low temperature range using 448a, you definitely and 449, you're going to want to use some sort of liquid injection to help cool the compressors off so that way they don't overheat. Just a thing to think about. All right. See what else we got going on in here? Um, let's see Cm448a Tell me everything.

It's now just popping up for me. Super heat sub cooling pressures. Uh, okay, so let's let's talk about this. I Want to ask the chat? What kind of pressures are we going to run on a medium temperature 448a system? Okay, so I'm gonna look at a pressure chart I Got a bunch of pressure charts over here and I could find 448a on there.

Okay, there we go I See all kinds of different pressures? What's the pressures for R22 What's the pressures for 448a What's the pressures for 404a? What's the pressures for 410A What's the pressure for 134? What's the pressures for r290? What's the pressure for 409 407 408 All these different refrigerants. There's so many different flavors of refrigerants, you really don't need to be so hyper concerned about pressures. Okay, because the cool thing is, every refrigerant, as long as it's a whole component, right? as long as it's not fractionated or anything like that, especially when they're Blends every refrigerant corresponds to a temperature. So with that being said, as long as you're not setting a pressure control, as long as you're not checking to see when a valve is opening and closing based off of pressure, for the most part, you can stop focusing on the actual pressure in PSIG and start focusing on these saturation temperatures so you don't need to be so concerned with it.

Okay, and let's answer this too. As far as and again, nobody take offense to this. I'm just stating some facts. Okay, as far as and and I'm going to ask the chat a question right now.

Okay, um, 448a what should the evaporator temperature be on a standard walk-in cooler? Um, you know range. What's the evaporator temperature range for 448a and I'm going to ask the chat right now. so evaporators superheat. What kind of super heat should we see on 448a on a walk-in cooler? Just just ballpark number? Let's see what the chat has to say.

Okay, all right. I'm going to read through my questions right here. All right. So cool.

We got some things to talk about. Um, seeing what? Uh, cm and don't take offense to anything. I'm just ballpark I'm just saying if I'm just answering this in a vague term for anybody else that's listening and I know that you understand basic stuff. Okay, and I'll get into that here in just a second.

So just trying to prove a point. Okay, so John Harrell says six to eight degrees Mike B says 8 to 12 degrees. Okay, so these are all great questions or all great answers. And here's the thing.

The evaporator superheat on a 448a system is going to be the same as the evaporator superheat on a 404 on a 404 or R22 it's medium temperature. You're typically going to be somewhere from 6 to 15 degrees somewhere in that range depending on the type of stuff you've got in the Box Okay, so the superheat is not so much going to change. The superheat's still going to kind of be the same, right because it's just getting the most efficiency out of the evaporator while not having too low as superheat to have liquid refrigerant returning back to the compressor. As far as ballpark pressures for 448a, it's almost identical to R22.

So if you worked on any R22 medium temperature stuff, 448a is dang near in line. In fact, 448a uses R22 expansion valves. They just rebranded them and put you know that it works with R22 448a 449. So if you go, buy a spoil an expansion valve for uh with a VC Victor Charlie power head on it.

that's a medium temperature R22 valve that's also good for 448a and 449, but just because it uses the same expansion valve doesn't necessarily mean that everything's going to be the same. With 448a, you're going to get capacity changes because it's a very high Glide refrigerant. so you're going to get weird stuff going on. Then the midpoint temperature of the coil is going to be really, really low and it's actually going to warm up as it's leaving the evaporator.

So you have to make sure that when you are checking evaporator superheat that you are using the proper uh, saturation temperatures. and you typically want to find a midpoint in the Glide when you're calculating the superheat. or um, when you're calculating coil capacity, you want to use the midpoint and the Glide So you want to be careful about that and make sure that you're using that. So understand that when you come to these high Glide refrigerants, you want to pay attention because there can be a huge discrepancy between bubble and dew point.

and you know you deal with a single component refrigerant like R22. There really wasn't a big difference, so it was no big deal, you know. But when you get into these high Glide refrigerants, there's definitely a big difference. so pay attention to that.

Um, see what else? Uh, Spyro says what's up. You sent an email regarding bonding steel to copper and you were having and you're getting pinhole leaks? Yeah, that's definitely on my list. Uh I can go ahead and uh, let me get to one question before yours and then we'll get to that and then I've got some other ones that I'm going to cover too that people asked about. Okay So um, a lot of people have been asking me about the weather in Southern California and I'll say the same thing that I said I think it was last week.

the media has been over hyping a lot of it. Now there's certain areas in California that have gotten some really, really bad weather, especially up in Northern California and Central California they're getting pounded with rains now down here in Southern California We've definitely gotten a lot of rain and it's been cooler. Well, previous to this week, it's been cold. This week it's been kind of warm.

We have like this whole Pineapple Express thing coming through, but our local mountains got pounded in snow and we had the cold snap a couple weeks ago and they're still trying to dig out. But down in Southern California In general, it's not that bad at all. just mild normal temperatures. Um, actually warming up a little bit.

Uh, so answered that one now. Uh, let's see reading through here. So Spyro had asked the question about bonding steel to Copper so that's a great question. and uh, so here's the deal.

If you're going to bond dissimilar metals to copper, right? Something that's different than copper. whether it be brass, whether it be steel, stainless steel, or you know, whatever you're going to bond to it, you typically want to use a high silver bearing content. Okay, so our content solder I should say so. I use really high silver content.

so I use 56 Silver solder with a silver solder flux paste. Okay, it needs to say you know, stay still. That's I think manufactured by Harris or something like that. But um, you definitely got to use the right solder.

So the highest silver content you can get is the best. So I use 56 Silver solder. Uh, cleanliness is key and high heat. so if you're bonding copper to steel, clean the copper thoroughly, deburr it.

Clean the steel thoroughly inside and out. Silver paste, flux on it, push the joint together, heat it up, and uh, then put the silver solder on there and it'll flow like butter. That's the interesting thing about Silver solder is when you're using Silver solder, it flows just like Plumbing solder once you get it hot enough, but it because of the high silver content, it needs more heat. so you get it nice and warm and then the solder just sucks right in and flows through the entire joint.

Silver solder is actually really easy to work with once you figure it out, but when you're using it for the first time and you're trying to braise it, it's a little scary because you're thinking you're overheating it and you can overheat it too. You can burn the flux off and then it becomes a problem. So it's definitely an art. You don't want to do it for the first time on a job.

You definitely want to do it at the shop. Play with it, Find some old brass or steel Valves and brave some copper together. Um, but yeah, just just make sure you use a high silver based content solder. read through the chat, see what I'm missing here? Um, now.

uh. Some people out there like the there's some rods, some brazing rods that already have flux on them. So they're flux coated rods. They'll be like orange or whatever color they are.

I Personally don't like those because in weird situations, especially when they're old, the flux will will fall off of the rod and then you'll pull it out and it'll be all dried up and it'll fall off. I Prefer a paste flux myself. but you also need to be careful if you're using a paste flux that you don't shove it in the refrigeration line. So definitely an art.

figuring that out for sure! Nick Had asked a question about if I would go into detail about setting fan cycle controls. So what pressures should you set a fan cycle control at? Well, let's break it down. What's the purpose of a fan cycle control? In a nutshell: it turns off the condenser fan motor. Okay, that's something that it does and it also elevates the head pressure when it turns off the condenser fan motor.

So okay. But further than that, why are we shutting off the condenser fan motor? What's the point of a fan cycle control? Okay, so the fan cycle control is there to help the expansion valve. That's what it's there for. Okay, you have an expansion valve and the expansion valve is there to take liquid refrigerant and reduce the pressure.

change the uh, the state of the refrigerant from a solid liquid to a liquid Vapor mixture as it enters the evaporator and then the evaporator changes the state the rest of the way from a liquid Vapor mixture all the way to a vapor as it exits the evaporator. But think about it like this: You have an expansion valve and the expansion valve is there to change the state of the refrigerant and reduce the pressure. It creates a pressure differential. Okay, um, but you have to make sure that the system the the pressure of the refrigerant going to the expansion valve can't be too low if it's really cold outside.

Remember earlier that I said refrigerant reacts to temperature right? So if it's really cold outside, the refrigerant pressure is going to go down as it gets cold and it's going to go up as it gets hotter. Okay, so we refrigeration system actually can only operate within a small window. All right. And we will use a fan cycle control to elevate the head pressure to artificially Elevate the head pressure right, acting like it's blocking off the condenser to raise the temperature of the liquid refrigerant.

So that way in a sense, it raises the pressure. So what pressures do we set a fan cycle control to cut in and cut out at? It depends on how your expansion valve was sized. Okay on newer equipment. Uh, a Weft compliant? Uh, Awaf is annual walk-in efficiency factor.

It's like a Department of Energy regulation. That's It's basically like a Seer rating for refrigeration equipment. Okay, so anything. what is it I don't remember What is it? 3 000 square feet or less? No.

I don't know. Whatever. Anyways, it's it's it's on smaller walk-in coolers and freezers. They need to be Awf compliant and what they do a lot of them to make them Aof compliant is they lower or float the head pressure down.

They reduce the liquid temperature going to the expansion valve, so the expansion valves have to be sized accordingly. So I know this is a long answer to your question. What are some general rules of thumb to set a pressure or a fan cycle control? It really depends on how your expansion valve was sized for your evaporatorical old school. We would set the fan cycle controls to maintain a about 80 to 90 degree liquid temp is typically what we would do somewhere in there, sometimes a little bit higher.

Okay, uh, that would equate to on R12 and R22 Actually I think our 22 equipment. it was typically 200 250. So cut out at 250 or turn the fan on at 250, turn the fan off at 200. PSI.

But uh, if you follow an R22 pressure chart, let's see. uh, let's see 250 psi for R22 I'm reading through a chart right now 250 psi. Where's my pressure chart at air conditioning and Chiller why can't I see I can't see my pressure chart at the moment? 250 PSI for R22 is approximately 118 degree is what the temperature of the refrigerant is. So um, yeah, it just it really depends on the the the expansion valve settings.

Okay, so old school we would just always go off of 250 200. so turn the fan on at 250, turn the fan off at 200. But I Personally, don't really care for fan cycle controls. Okay, but you need to look at how the equipment was designed and that's going to tell you so.

Basically, was your equipment designed for at 80 degree liquid saturation? Was it designed for a 75 degree liquid saturation? It really depends. So that's how you're going to change your fan cycle settings. so it's not a really easy answer. And I apologize because I don't know how your equipment was set up.

So um, let's see Justin Pierce says a Headmaster is better. so it's always so rough turning the fans on and off. Yeah, personally, I don't really care for fan cycle controls too much because they're very violent on the system. I Prefer to use a head pressure control valve, but you can't just slap a head pressure control valve on any system out there because it has to be designed for it.

Receiver capacity needs to go up. They typically need to make sure that you have enough, uh, internal volume in that receiver to store the entire refrigerant charge when it's pumped down. So, but I Prefer fans I Mean uh, head pressure control valves over fan cycle all day long. but sometimes you need both depending on the the conditions that you're in, right? Or if you're dealing with an ice machine, you need both because you need as much, uh, heat in that refrigerant to defrost the ice off the ice machine.

So I mean you know it just depends on the equipment you're working on. All right, let's see what else. Um, reading through the chat. Yeah, 3 000 square feet or less is what? The Aof compliance yeah, that's a Andy confirmed that.

So um, all right, cool. Let me see what am I missing here. Copeland Scroll Liquid Injection Is there any adjustment to be made during startup on a standard DTC valve? Not really. I Mean if it's just a standard Copeland DTC valve.

you're not really going to adjust too much on that because it's non-adjustable It is what it is now. Is it a a temperature responsive expansion valve? Like you know that you may need to make some adjustments. What is it like a why something or other spoiling valve or something? But for just a DTC valve, it's just basically a discharge, temperature controlled expansion valve and there's not really any adjustment on those at all. Just make sure you got a solid column of liquid going to it.

Um, all right. equipment used to be commonly sized at 90 to 5 95 degree liquid temp entering the TXV 100. it used to be sized that way, but we're reducing that temperature drastically now. So yeah, um, what is DTC Discharge Temperature controlled valve: I'll show you one right now.

Foreign. So this is a discharge temperature controlled valve right here. This is mounted and actually I'll Uh, I'll show you guys a little shot of it right now. so hang on just a second and I'll pull up a different camera angle and let's see what we can do here.

Hold on and see if I can figure this out. If I can do this right now I can't I have another camera over there? but it's not going to work but a DTC valve. This mounts on the side of the compressor. It goes to a roto-lock fitting on the side of the compressor and it's a non-adjustable expansion valve.

It has a little capillary guy that goes in the head of the compressor. This is for a scroll compressor. Um, it's just an expansion valve. There's not really much more to it.

It responds off the head of the compressor. That's it. So nothing too fancy if you open them up. it has a strainer just like a normal spoiling.

TXV And uh I can't with 100 certainty say this? but I'm pretty sure Sporland makes this valve for Copeland. So um, but yeah, it just has a normal Sporland strainer in it right there and has a little connection actually. I would call this a chat lift connection, not a road lock connection I think But yeah, just a normal valve, so nothing too fancy. All right.

So let's see what else we got going on in here. Oh, it's hitting that time of the year where it's starting to get warm in my office. How do you often see walk-in compressors single phasing I mean I I Don't see it that often at all. Uh DTC valve with the solenoid.

Yeah, it's always good to have a solenoid on there. They actually recommend always having a solenoid because that way you can isolate. uh, that. I mean worst case.

Like let's just say you know in a certain situation if you have a or a ball valve before it, I mean something to be able to isolate that DTC valve because in some situations you might have uh, rotoloc valves on the scroll compressor and if you want to change it, you can sometimes isolate the compressor by closing the discharge in the suction rotoloc valve. But if it has a DTC valve, you don't want to just take that off because you know if the temperature gets high enough that valve is going to open. So yeah, solenoid valve is a good good idea or a ball valve. But a solenoid valve also prevents uh, migration in weird situations too.

So um, see what else we got going on in here? Where can you get that expansion valve build kit? Anybody that sells Spoilin products can get you a BQ kit for your expansion or you know, for you to keep in your truck. You just got to ask them. it's called a Sporlin BQ kit. So all right, uh and then you just they.

They basically sell you the case and then you you build it how you want it. You put the valves and the power heads and everything that you want inside of it. So um, let me see. United Refrigeration has them.

Yeah, I Mean anybody that has them, what can cause a walk-in cooler TXV to frost quick and ice up when head pressure is 30 degrees over ambient? Dan Lin Well, head pressure being 30 degrees over Ambien doesn't tell me a single thing. All that that tells me is is that your head pressure is 30 degrees over ambient. Um, you know on a refrigeration system. If you have an expansion valve, we're looking for a Clear Sight glass.

Uh, and we're looking for proper airflow going through the evaporator coil with no ice. You need to make sure that the expansion valve is sized for the evaporator. and most importantly, you need to make sure that the nozzle uh behind the expansion valve are in between the expansion valve and the distributor of the evaporator is sized correctly for the right refrigerant. And with that being said, if you have a solid column of liquid, then your expansion valve, if it's sized right, should be able to perform correctly.

but it's not just that easy. Again, you have to have the right airflow and you have to have the correct size condensing unit on the roof running your equipment. So what can cause a expansion valve to ice up? I Mean there's so many variables, you know it's it's not something I can just tell you like. just do this.

I Mean you want to make sure that your strainer is clean, but there's a lot of things that go into that for sure. So um, you if I if I don't answer any of your questions enough, y'all can feel free to send me an email to Hvacrvideos Gmail.com and I can try to answer them there too. Um, let me see what else we got going on here. Almost hot enough to test a receiver.

No, not quite there, but getting there. So um, one of these days I'm gonna finish my home remodel project and uh, hopefully we can cool off my office a little bit. Um, so chances having a hard time with a walking cooler or walk-in freezer door that's not closing. So I Kind of wanted to get into this a little bit now.

we kind of need some visual aids. Chance was asking me for some advice. Uh, you know about a freezer door that wasn't shutting and I'm just going to kind of go over this a little bit and give some tips. Okay Chance I think I've already sent you an email, but you definitely want to send me some pictures, maybe even a video clip and let me know what's going on.

Show me the box. But I'm going to explain a few things and then I'll give you some some insight and places to go. So first and foremost, when you're dealing with any kind of a door on a walk-in cooler, walk-in freezer if you have Hardware that makes the door self-closing like spring-loaded hinges or a door closure, the most important thing that you want to understand is spring-loaded hinges and or a door closure do not compensate for a door that will not shut. Spring-loaded hinges and a door closure are simply there to make the process smoother.

Okay, the only thing a door closure does is the last two inches. It helps to Spring the door shut. but you need to make sure that when you are working on a door, whether it be for a freezer or cooler that it shuts independent of the door closure and spring-loaded hinges so there cannot be any binding up. Nothing can be hitting nice and easy, nice and smooth.

And then you put spring-loaded hinges on it and or a door closure. So the most important thing is that there's nothing hitting the door all the way around. Another thing that can get forgotten about that people don't quite understand is you can actually have the wrong gaskets on the door. If you have the wrong gaskets on the door, then the door is not going to shut properly because the gasket is going to bind up inside there.

Every manufacturer does different things, but a pretty Common Thread amongst most manufacturers of walking equipment is that for the most part the inside Dart or the inside magnet on a door gasket. So when I say inside, that's usually on the hinge side. typically the inside of the door gasket. the inside section of it does not have a magnet in it.

And you'd be surprised how much a magnet which is only a sixteenth of an inch that's shoved into that door gasket can make a difference when it comes to closing a door. So a good majority of Manufacturers don't put a magnet on the inside of the uh uh, the door gasket. Okay, the next thing is, you want to make sure that there's nothing all the way around the door. Like I said.

the the threshold, the kick plate, the door sweep. Nothing can be binding up. That door needs to close effortlessly just by barely pushing it with your finger. It should close all the way and you know, no problems.

And then put hinges or Spring closing hinges and a door closure on it. Okay, so that's one thing that I find people always have a hard time understanding is that Spring closing hinges and a door closure is not there to compensate for a door that's binding. Because they won't. They won't do that.

Okay, they're just there to ease in the closing process. That's it. So make sure that you, uh, fix your door. So some cool things to do is is loosen up all the hinges right? Just loosen.

Don't don't take the screws of the bolts out, but just loosen them on the door. Uh, typically the door frame doesn't move, but usually on the door and go ahead and shove some shims in the door, on the sides and on the top and the bottom and even out that door. Sometimes the door can come loose or it can sag one way. So put some shims in there, whether it be like wood shims or something like that and just put them in there.

make it nice and even then really snug up those screws on those door hinges. Nice and good. So that's usually where you want to start when you're trying to work with doors and then obviously look for any obvious signs of things hitting and binding. You don't want door thresholds hitting or anything like that.

Okay, so set your door right once you get your door set, then try to adjust it from there if the Door is bent and beat up and stuff like that, then maybe the customer needs to consider replacing the door. So Chance I probably didn't give you the most. Sound Advice to your question. So again, I need some more feedback from you.

Some some pictures and some videos of the door in question and then maybe I can advise you a little bit more. So shoot those over to Hvacrvideos Gmail.com Okay, all right, um, doesn't matter if the door closes or not, they don't close it Anyways, that's true. Now another thing to think about too when it comes to a walk-in freezer, Chance is vacuum breakers. Okay, you definitely want to have a vacuum breaker on the door frame itself.

so those are typically a heated little module if you guys have never seen one. Next time you go into a walk-in freezer, just look around the door and you'll usually see like a little circle with like a plastic cover. or maybe it's a metal cover. There's actually a heater inside there and there's some sort of a mechanism in there that creates a vacuum breaker.

So what happens is sometimes on a really well sealed box, you'll go to shut the door and the door won't shutter. It'll bounce back open because there's pressure in there and there's no way for that pressure to be relieved. Okay, think about this when you go home to your refrigerator at your house. Oftentimes home refrigerators don't have vacuum breakers.

Okay, so if you go and you open your freezer door right and then you close it, sometimes you'll you can't open it right away. the freezer door won't open. It's because it's building up a vacuum inside there. So on industrial or commercial equipment we typically have a vacuum breaker on there.

so make sure that that vacuum breaker is not messed up. Next thing. and I Know you mentioned this chance on a walk-in freezer. You want to make sure that the door heater is working properly.

The door heater is there to make sure that ice doesn't build up and cause the door to get stuck. And then sometimes the ice can build up so much that the door will no longer shut because of the ice too. You'd be surprised just the tiniest bit of ice on a door will cause it from shutting and bind it up and just destroy the entire door. So always want to check for a heated vacuum breaker too.

Um, all right. Any tips on starting a new company? Mr Green Whoo, that's a hard one man. Um, I'm gonna get to a question about a company starting a company and that kind of stuff here soon. so I'll cover that a little bit more.

Zach Asked a great question about how accurate Measure Quick is on package units. Okay, so when you're working on package units, I use the software quite often I Have no affiliation with Measure Quick or anything like that. Ironically, I've probably sold their system to a million people because they all see me using it in my videos. but that's a whole other question for another day.

Um, but Zach was saying that if you follow the instructions that Measure Quick says where to place probes when I use them in package units. the the the whatever air probes you're going to use I'm typically not putting in in the most ideal place right? because when you're working on a package unit, you can't really get below the roof deck. So in a perfect world, you want your supply air temperature to be at your first Outlet or your first diffuser first register are within the system and you want your return air probe to be somewhere where it's getting a good mixture of the return air going to the system. But oftentimes I will put my probes right in the package unit which sometimes might be line of sight of the evaporator if you have an air probe within line of sight of the evaporator.

That can lead to some problems, especially if you're using that air probe to calculate BTU or delivered BTU capacity because you know if it's in line of sight of the evaporator, it might be colder than the rest. You know it just might be the skewed number. basically. So um, you know it's not ideal that I put the probes in the package unit right on the outside.

but it's just one of those things I le